Based on such positive reviews on these boards, I'm thinking of staying at La Belle Etoile in the second week of May. But I'm concerned that in everyone's photos, it looks like there are many tour buses out in front. Is it loud and overrun this time of year? Is it better to just enjoy a meal here? Thanks!

Also, after that, I'm looking for a good base to explore Lot River Valley for 3 nights? St Cirq Lapopie? Eventually I need to get down to the Toulouse train. Ira, I think the Moulin de Cambelong looks incredible but I'm concerned about covering too much territory too quickly. I do want to savor it!

We were in that region for 4 weeks this past year - starting the last week of August. The street in front of the Belle Etoile (along the rivers edge), is a little narrow and cars are not allowed to park there. We actually saw very little traffic (sompared to mid August). We drive through Roque Gageac on Aug 27 at 3:30pm and only had to tap the breaks three times - for pedestrians. The next morning at 9:00 there was no traffic on the road at all. Roque Gageac has a very large lot on the east end of town where the busses park (cars too) There will be less traffic in May. However, I don't know what it will be like on one of the French holidays in May.

St Cirq Lapopie would be a good choice for a place to base to see the Lot River.

We've spend 8 weeks vacationing in the Dordogne, and many weeks in the Lot area also. I have a 20+ page itinerary on the Dordogne that describes my favorite villages, sites, scenic drives, restaurants, etc. This itinery also includes the area around St Cirq Lapopie , Figeac, and west of St Cirq Lapopie. I have a similar one for the Languedoc region, that has some stuff on the Lot. E-mail me at [email protected] if you would like a copy.

Stu Dudley

Hi ML,

I agree with Stu that in the second week of May, you should not have major problems with tour buses in Laroque Gageac.

Both St. Cirque La Popie and Figeac are nice towns to stay in.

Conques is 2:42 hr from La Roque and only 1:37 hr from the Peche Merle cave in Cabrerets.

Three nights in the Lot river valley is plenty of time.

If you want to visit Conques, I don't think that you will be rushed.

Have a nice trip.

There will be the occasional tour bus in May, but nothing like in summer an certainly not a reason not to stay there.

I'd base myself in Figeac in the Lot instead of St-Cirq-Lapopie, which just doesn't do much for me except from the geological standpoint. Figeac is larger, with more interesting sites to visit, and far more authentic a town than SClP, IMO.

My husband and I stayed at La Belle Etoile for three nights two years ago in late May or early June. Traffic and noise was not a problem. There was more activity in the town during the day, but by evening, it was really very quiet and enjoyable to sit out on one of the terraces. Food was good and the location was very convenient for us and the many daytrips we made, especially to gardens in the area.

I just got back from a week in Cenac, the town right next to La Roque Gageac. First I want to thank Stu and the rest of the people who posted tips about the area for their recommendations. I followed them as closely as possible and they were invaluable.

Because accommodations are crucial, I'd like to recommend the b&b where I stayed, La Gueriniere in Cenac. I chose it because I could reserve using a credit card instead of a check, and because it listed WiFi access for a small fee. It's also right in the center of most of the best sites. What I didn't know is that it's located on a lovely hill right outside town, that the rooms are comfortable and immaculate, that the owners are gourmet chefs, that the hostess, Brigitte, is kind and gracious, and that it's a perfect place to enjoy all the things Americans travel to France for. The Wifi turned out to be a computer that guests can use for free, which made checking in with my family easy. Dinners were served in a country-style dining room, with all the guests (12 maximum) seated together. I was the only American guest at the time, which gave me the opportunity to practice French, my main goal. There was a relaxed and warm ambience, gracefully facilitated by Brigitte. One night the first course was foie gras mi-cuit, which I tried because of the posts here. It was as heavenly as people described. Brigitte and Christophe try to find organic, top-quality food, and the jams served at breakfast are from their fruit trees. There are also gites on the property, and I assume they're equally appealing, although I didn't see them.

Two chance encounters in the area were also highlights of my trip. I rented a canoe at the local "Cenac Perigord Loisirs," and Olivier, one of the young owners, accompanied me on a trip down the Dordogne to La Roque Gageac. He pointed out the birds and fish and explained the history of buildings we were passing. There are many rental places along the river, but this is one where you will be treated kindly and fairly. Olivier also speaks English.

I also wandered into a little antique shop in nearby Domme, a beautiful town. Its owners, M. and Madame James, originally of Paris, were friendly and fun and offered a very good price on some tin boxes I wanted.

If you're going to spend time in the Lot, I also visited a b&b in that area and met its dynamic, bilingual owner: Marie-Josee (MJ) Launay of "Ma Maison" in Blanzaguet. MJ spent 25 years in San Francisco, and she has a California-style energy and openness. Her house is right on the river (she mows the lawn down to the riverbank)in a tiny, typical town. There are four big bedrooms, all bright and comfortable, with modern bathrooms, and a living room and porch that all are welcome to use, as well as a private entrance for guests. She cooks dinner, having had a restaurant in Palo Alto for many years, and also organizes excursions to local sites. Since learning French is important to me, I was impressed by the fact that she offers both cooking and French conversation lessons. She is bilingual and bicultural, with a fascinating dual perspective.

I spent an afternoon with MJ, first having lunch at a wonderful restaurant in Martel, Au Hazard Balthazar, then visiting the walnut oil mill, Le Moulin a Huile de Noix, outside town. A highpoint was talking to a local farmer, 85 years old, who had brought his walnuts there to be pressed.

I'm writing this because I remember how worried I was, combing through all the postings here, before my trip, afraid of making the wrong decision about where to stay. The Internet is a wonderful source of information, but it's hard to be sure from tiny photos and a list of features. I hope these personal recommendations will make someone else's trip planning easier and reassure everyone thinking of a visit to the Dordogne that you will have a wonderful time.

blackberryhill, those places you stayed sound perfect - I'm going to bookmark this. Thanks!