Rome/Venice Summer Tips
Jul 16th, 2005, 07:27 AM
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Rome/Venice Summer Tips
My husband and two teenagers and I returned recently from a late June, 11-day trip to Venice and Rome. I got so much useful planning advice from this forum, I wanted to share some observations/advice for others:
Transport from Venice airport into the city: we decided to save a little money and take the private Alilaguna water bus rather than water taxi. Mistake! It was very hot, we missed the bus we had planned to take because of crowds waiting before us, we were tired from the flight and had to wait 1/2 hour on a crowded platform for the next bus and when it finally came it took over an hour to get to St. Mark's. Kids were very cranky. Not the way to enter Venice. Splurge if your budget allows and take a water taxi! (especially in summer)
Dress: because it was unseasonably hot for late June I wore 2 lightweight cotton skirts over and over along with sleeveless t's or sleeveless linen blouses. Birkenstocks saved my feet. (if you're debating about footwear, consider buying Birkenstock's in Rome -- I paid twice as much in the states)You will see all kinds of footwear so as far as the raging sneaker debate goes, my only comment is to be comfortable. Both cities are full of tourists, you are a tourist, Italians will know you're a tourist, so why not be comfortable? (and I saw plenty of Italians wearing stylish athletic footwear) Even in the heat, though, I didn't see many women in shorts. Skirts, jeans and capris. Men wore shorts and the European men are wearing capris. St. Peter's was the only church we noticed that turned men away with shorts. My 13-year-old son managed to get in with his very long, baggy shorts. They don't scrutinize children as closely about dress. Many churches (including St. Mark's Basilica) give out paper shawls to cover women's shoulders, so it seemed ok to go sleeveless. (not in St. Peter's though)
Food: We stayed in apartments so ate breakfast in or sat in cafes for cappucino to people watch. Pizza or sandwich shops for lunch for economy(we often took the sandwiches out or ate standing at the counters as the Italians do. Do bring a list of restaurant recommendations for dinner from this forum/guides/whatever resources you have. Particularly in Venice, we had some mediocre food by just winging it.
Other comments/Venice: we were disappointed to miss out on the Secret Itinerary tour at Doge's Palace as they were sold out for the length of our stay when we stopped in at the ticket desk. Book in advance. Well in advance for the summer. (at least a week to be safe) City is absolutely swarming with tourists. Our best experiences were walking in the residential neighborhoods, just strolling the squares, happening on a good sandwich shop, finding a local gelateria, people watching in cafes and campos. Our favorite "attraction" was the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Kids enjoyed it relative to other museums, it's in a lovely setting right on the Grand Canal and air conditioned! (if you're travelling in summer keep track of places that are air conditioned for a break in your day)
Train from Venice to Rome: Book in advance online and use the ticketless option. Saves waiting in line at the train station. Bring food with you for lunch (we bought sandwiches at the station) or you can eat in the dining car. There are also "rogue" vendors who hop on board at some stops to sell sandwiches. You can stow larger pieces of luggage behind seats in 2nd class. Be prepared -- Italians talk loudly and frequently on their cell phones on trains! 2nd class travel on the Eurostar is very comfortable.
Other comments/Rome: we had a private guide for a tour of the Vatican. A highlight. She made it interesting for all of us, knew what to skip and how to pace it to keep it interesting for the kids. We did the other sites on our own and the only disappointment was the Colosseum. VERY crowded and hot. Doing it with a tour guide would have enhanced the experience. If you go on your own, buy tickets at the Palatine Hill ticket office. No lines and your ticket is good for both Palatine and Colosseum. Beautiful views from Palatine -- take the time for a stroll. See Trevi Fountain at night -- a real scene and a treat for the senses. One last note re pickpockets/safety. We walked everywhere and late at night. Never felt unsafe. Lots of people were around and everyone strolls at night in the summer. I had read so much about pickpockets that I was imagining constant peril! We never had a problem -- didn't wear money belts or inside the clothing purses. Just kept small amounts of cash in front pockets. I wore a lightweight shoulder bag across my chest. I think anyone who is used to big cities in this country and uses common sense will be fine. But we did not take subways or buses and I hear that's where most of the problems occur.
All in all a fabulous trip. I was worried that the kids (13 and 16)would be unhappy, but they were interested and open to exploring sites and food. We'll be back. Let me know if any questions...I'm no expert but happy to share my experiences.
Transport from Venice airport into the city: we decided to save a little money and take the private Alilaguna water bus rather than water taxi. Mistake! It was very hot, we missed the bus we had planned to take because of crowds waiting before us, we were tired from the flight and had to wait 1/2 hour on a crowded platform for the next bus and when it finally came it took over an hour to get to St. Mark's. Kids were very cranky. Not the way to enter Venice. Splurge if your budget allows and take a water taxi! (especially in summer)
Dress: because it was unseasonably hot for late June I wore 2 lightweight cotton skirts over and over along with sleeveless t's or sleeveless linen blouses. Birkenstocks saved my feet. (if you're debating about footwear, consider buying Birkenstock's in Rome -- I paid twice as much in the states)You will see all kinds of footwear so as far as the raging sneaker debate goes, my only comment is to be comfortable. Both cities are full of tourists, you are a tourist, Italians will know you're a tourist, so why not be comfortable? (and I saw plenty of Italians wearing stylish athletic footwear) Even in the heat, though, I didn't see many women in shorts. Skirts, jeans and capris. Men wore shorts and the European men are wearing capris. St. Peter's was the only church we noticed that turned men away with shorts. My 13-year-old son managed to get in with his very long, baggy shorts. They don't scrutinize children as closely about dress. Many churches (including St. Mark's Basilica) give out paper shawls to cover women's shoulders, so it seemed ok to go sleeveless. (not in St. Peter's though)
Food: We stayed in apartments so ate breakfast in or sat in cafes for cappucino to people watch. Pizza or sandwich shops for lunch for economy(we often took the sandwiches out or ate standing at the counters as the Italians do. Do bring a list of restaurant recommendations for dinner from this forum/guides/whatever resources you have. Particularly in Venice, we had some mediocre food by just winging it.
Other comments/Venice: we were disappointed to miss out on the Secret Itinerary tour at Doge's Palace as they were sold out for the length of our stay when we stopped in at the ticket desk. Book in advance. Well in advance for the summer. (at least a week to be safe) City is absolutely swarming with tourists. Our best experiences were walking in the residential neighborhoods, just strolling the squares, happening on a good sandwich shop, finding a local gelateria, people watching in cafes and campos. Our favorite "attraction" was the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Kids enjoyed it relative to other museums, it's in a lovely setting right on the Grand Canal and air conditioned! (if you're travelling in summer keep track of places that are air conditioned for a break in your day)
Train from Venice to Rome: Book in advance online and use the ticketless option. Saves waiting in line at the train station. Bring food with you for lunch (we bought sandwiches at the station) or you can eat in the dining car. There are also "rogue" vendors who hop on board at some stops to sell sandwiches. You can stow larger pieces of luggage behind seats in 2nd class. Be prepared -- Italians talk loudly and frequently on their cell phones on trains! 2nd class travel on the Eurostar is very comfortable.
Other comments/Rome: we had a private guide for a tour of the Vatican. A highlight. She made it interesting for all of us, knew what to skip and how to pace it to keep it interesting for the kids. We did the other sites on our own and the only disappointment was the Colosseum. VERY crowded and hot. Doing it with a tour guide would have enhanced the experience. If you go on your own, buy tickets at the Palatine Hill ticket office. No lines and your ticket is good for both Palatine and Colosseum. Beautiful views from Palatine -- take the time for a stroll. See Trevi Fountain at night -- a real scene and a treat for the senses. One last note re pickpockets/safety. We walked everywhere and late at night. Never felt unsafe. Lots of people were around and everyone strolls at night in the summer. I had read so much about pickpockets that I was imagining constant peril! We never had a problem -- didn't wear money belts or inside the clothing purses. Just kept small amounts of cash in front pockets. I wore a lightweight shoulder bag across my chest. I think anyone who is used to big cities in this country and uses common sense will be fine. But we did not take subways or buses and I hear that's where most of the problems occur.
All in all a fabulous trip. I was worried that the kids (13 and 16)would be unhappy, but they were interested and open to exploring sites and food. We'll be back. Let me know if any questions...I'm no expert but happy to share my experiences.
Jul 17th, 2005, 12:49 AM
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Really appreciated your tips I leave for Italy frm Australia on Tuesday.
Would be glad of any suggestions for reasonable priced restaurants in Rome. Colleague was there last year said she had problems in St Peters Square with pickpockets trying to put a baby in her arms any comments anyone is that a usual scam or something very unsual
Would be glad of any suggestions for reasonable priced restaurants in Rome. Colleague was there last year said she had problems in St Peters Square with pickpockets trying to put a baby in her arms any comments anyone is that a usual scam or something very unsual
Jul 17th, 2005, 09:29 AM
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Mez05 - we always went back to our apartments in the afternoons. Gave everyone time to read, rest, relax. Then we'd go back out around 5. Can't say it was really getting cool at that hour, but it was more tolerable. By arranging our days to do things in the morning, rest in the aftenoon, eat late and stay up late we felt we were more in rhythm with the Romans.
IreneMac - check out Trastevere for reasonable, lively restaurants. We liked Osteria Le Mani in Pasta, but be prepared to come with a sense of adventure. Only 1 waiter spoke a little English. Our Vatican guide told us about the baby scam (they use dolls), so I guess it's not too unusual.
IreneMac - check out Trastevere for reasonable, lively restaurants. We liked Osteria Le Mani in Pasta, but be prepared to come with a sense of adventure. Only 1 waiter spoke a little English. Our Vatican guide told us about the baby scam (they use dolls), so I guess it's not too unusual.
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