jjkbrook

So sorry you hated Rome - you are not alone - One of my work colleagues just got back from a trip to Italy and vowed he would never return to Rome - after very much looking forward to the visit. I think it was the heat and glaring sun primarily and probably a lack of rain to clean the dust off the old stones and the butts from the gutters. The area around public monuments, like the Colisseo and Forum, tends to be unkempt in Italy, vs people's front steps and storefronts which tend to be well swept.

We fell in love with Rome on our first visit almost 30 years ago, when we stayed at the Portoghesi for our first nights, walking around Old Rome, up to the Campidoglio, etc. YOu dont have to contend with traffic much in those areas. Weve stayed in several different neighborhoods since and tend to rent apartments these days (much more relaxing/less sordid with a family) but Ive always taken the same general approach, using the Georgina Masson Companion Guide walks as a framework for exploring and becoming VERY familiar with the bus maps and routes so we can navigate when we get tired. One gets used to crossing streets in the face of traffic (they are skilled drivers) though admittedly with kids in tow its much more unpleasant.
Our one trip to Rome with little kids were small (almost 5 and 18 mo and a third on the way) was quite difficult - we wound up finding a daycare place to leave them some of the time, but it was just very difficult to enjoy what are basically adult cultural sites with kids to amuse. Kids liked the trams and tolerated walking mostly, but enjoying a church or museum with tired bored kids, or simply getting through a meal enjoyably was hard.
Go back when your kids are older (or even without them) and not in the summer season and you will have a better time.

daveesl

YES, Finally someone speaks the truth about that horrid little town.

1)Graffitti is so bad, I was even tagged just standing on a street corner.

2) Italians are all so sad and depressed that suicide happens on a schedule now (I prefer the 9:15 poisonings over the 11:30 hangings)

3) Food is just awful. I realize everybody can't have Swanson dinners like us, but hey, too bad.

4) What about all those trashy old run down buildings? My GOD!!! Why in Orlando, we tear down a stadium when it reaches 20 years old. How could anyone enjoy a football game in that thing they call a stadium in Rome?

5) Traffic, whew, there isn't anywhere on the planet that has traffic, much less as bad as Rome. Why just the other day I was scooting along on the Washington Beltway at about 8am, enjoying the peace and tranquility of the lovely drive.

6) FLAGS!!!! Can you believe they don't wash their flags?

7) CRIME---OH MY GOD!!! Luckily here in the States we don't have that problem. Just the other day in Orlando we got great news that we were #5 in the new FBI list of crime cities. That must mean that we only have 5 crimes a year.

So, NEVER EVER NEVER go to Rome. I'll be there again this Christmas with some more reports on the horrors of that place.



dave

greentravel

We just returned from Rome (07/22-2007). We stayed for 5 days at a hotel near the Termini station. The first couple of days my wife had the same feeling as you. She hated the graffiti and the dirty streets. However, gradually we learned to appreciate Rome. We bought the Roma pass which allowed us unlimited travel on the bus & subways, and it also gave us free entrance to the first two museeums we visited. We learned to take it easy during the day when the sun is hot by taking buses with air conditioning and spending a lot of time in air conditioned museums & restaurants. After ~ 7pm when the weather cools down we would walk all over the city to enjoy the scenes. It was absolutely marvelous to experience the city by foot at night. We stumbled upon an open air piano concert held next to a beautiful ancient monument. We listened to the concert while sitting on the street with fellow Italians & tourists alike, it was an unforgettable evening.

GoAway

You know, I am almost ashamed to say I didn't really like Rome. But I didn't. Maybe it was because it was the last leg of the trip, I don't know. I know that there is all of this wonderful stuff there, and fantastic history, and culture and food, and I couldn't wait to leave.

Just the same, I am glad I went, and if I ever get a chance to go back, maybe I'll like it the second time around.

TexasAggie

Hi indylady,
I'm sorry about your disappointment.

Maybe if you give Rome another try in the off season, you will like it better. My first visit, solo, was in late winter as a sophomore in college. As my second visit was in the middle of July during a very hot summer, I can look back and say I am so thankful my first visit was in the off season. I think that once you already love the city, even visiting during July (the worst month in my opinion) can't change your opinion.

DH and I have visited three times together - early May, early June, and late June. Early May was our favorite season in bella Roma. Beautiful weather and less intense crowds. We will be visiting next in late November 2008 and look forward to exploring the city in a different season.


Anyway, you may very well not like Rome. But... you also might find that you come away with a very different impression if you visit any other time than summer.

missypie

I think that each city has a different "vibe" and that some cities mesh with some peoples' personalities and others don't. No need to feel defensive if you don't love a city that others love. Give it a second try if you want...or not.

rbnwdln

I felt the same way you did the first 12 hours I was in Rome for the first time. Then, out of the blue, as we were walking along and spied a gorgeous courtyard beyond a dusty ancient wall, I was in love. Rome became my favorite city in all the world and this Francophile turned Italophile. Yes, this past June we found Rome to be VERY crowded, but that couldn't take away from a city with so many wonderful qualities. We return for the 5th time in October.

Tx_lv2trvl

Indylady, I must admit that I did feel a "little bit" disappointed during my visit to Rome in Oct. 2005.However I found the city itself to be as amazing as I had imagined; yes, graffiti in the metro stations.., but the history! I just could not quite fathom that I was in the city where Julius Ceasar "threatened" the Republic and was later assassinated...the Apostle Paul addressed the masses, the Roman Empire was governed by Emperors, and madmen among them used fellow men as horrendous entertainment in their colliseum. There's the art, Sistine Chapel, Borghese Gardens....etc. My main disappointment was the hostility of many of the women. These women were young,pretty and healthful, so I honestly don't know what the problem was...perhaps unhappy as you suggest. I experienced no problems in other countries until then. They would look at DH, then my children and finally around at me and give me the dirtiest look or sometimes stare at me unrelentlessly. Perhaps they thought me "plain" as DH is very handsome and my children tend to take after him. At any rate, by the end of the week DH had enough and declared that he never wanted to return to Rome. Initially I felt the same, but somewhere along the way I found what I call "GRACE". It may sound corny, but I imagined that if the Apostle Paul traveled so far to bring the message of the gospel of GRACE (an unmerited gift)then there must be something to the people he was delivering it to.
Although, Rome was not the most welcoming city, I would like to return someday. Unfortunately,it will not be this next trip as DH opinion remains the same...and my children, well teenagers seem to be okay with "anywhere" as long as they have their ipods.

dutyfree

My first trip to Rome was over 30 years ago-wasn't a big fave at the time. I started flying there during the summer weekly for my job a few years back and all I can say is "I love it!" Its loud,abrasive,dirty,old and yet its warm,inviting,interesting,etc. I always tell people that the worst time to see Rome is in the summer when all of mankind is there and so is the horrible heat (when you cannot drink the red wine you know its too hot!).However, if you visit this magical place when all of humanity has left (read fall and winter) its truly a special city.I have been flying to Rome every Tuesday for past few summers and just thinking about going for my very short layover always brings a smile to my soul! Give it another chance?

Pago

And aren't the "gypsies" a wonderful race of people!

faredolce

Rome is definitely NOT for everyone.

It is loud, chaotic and gritty as others have said, it has its bad areas, there is a lot of graffiti, pickpockets to be wary of, some of the restaurants can be horrible, touristic traps, lines are long, traffic is sheer madness, it is not particularly pedestrian friendly. And in the heat of the high season, while crammed into their city with millions of tourists, Romans are justifiably grumpy.

If you look at travel websites and read guidebooks, your mind is filled is the seemingly endless amount of cultural attractions - the museums filled with art treasures, the architecture, the churches - from jewel boxes to grand Basilicas, the timeless charm of certain neighborhoods. The layers that you can descend into one by one - modern Rome, Baroque Rome, Renaissance Rome, Ancient Rome.

There is so much to get excited about in terms of preparing for a visit, that when you encounter the unpleasant parts of Rome, you are bound to be shocked and have the same reaction that indylady had.

So I don't blame indylady one bit. Her experience was her experience. Heck, I love Rome, yet sometimes, when I am there, and I am assaulted by some of the realities, I hate it. (But that usually only lasts about an hour

The tourism industry is built upon highlighting the positives and downplaying the negatives. That's just the way it goes.

That everyone doesn't love Rome is not a tragedy. It just isn't for everyone.

I think it is great for indylady to give her honest reaction, so that people get a balanced, unromanticized view of

faredolce

...the city, and can prepare themselves, or perhaps decide that it isn't the kind of place they want to visit.

(Sorry to have cut my post in half! Dang keyboard...)

cruiseluv

I can accept your POV that it's dirty, grafitti, etc. But that "the Italians are unhappy"??? And that "it is so sad there"????

That sounds bizarre.

SuzieCII

Indy has been on Fodor's quite some time now. Indy's posts have always been gentle and polite, haven't they?
I'm sorry that you wnet all that way and were dissappointed. Truly sorry. In my case, (not to be crass about it) it would be dissappointed to spend so much money and oh my, the time!
Happy Travels Indy.
Where will you go next?

amyb

I agree that some cities strike people one way and others another way entirely. I've only ever spent one day in Rome so far, so I'm revisiting for a week later this year. Now, I love love love Florence, and I know many here don't. So I have no idea how I'll like Rome, or if I will at all.

But either way I don't think I'd come on here and post it like this thread does because it does nothing but incite the DOES NOT/DOES TOO arguments. There have been plenty of cities I've written trip reports on and haven't liked the cities at all, but I don't think you'd be able to tell from reading it. It just doesn't serve any real purpose by doing so.

sandi_travelnut

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-1gghn7

kaneda

It's been several years since I was last in Rome. I quite liked it but have to admit that I didn't like the crowds everywhere which is now common at anywhere worth visiting. I stayed in a nice little town outside Rome.

dawnnoelm

I cannot say I "loved" Rome - I loved Italy - loved the people, loved the history, loved the food - but Rome was a little too much of a city for me - but I know I am not a "city" person.

I am sorry that it was "truly awful" Indy. Was there something else going on?

I know that we should have done Rome first as many here have mentioned. I was tired, we had been traveling for almost 2 weeks by the time we got there - and Rome for us - was not a place to relax - There was too much to take in and see - I did not want to miss out....

I am surprised by your comment Indy that you have traveled all over the world and never experienced such deplorable conditions? Been to Africa lately?

tomassocroccante

amyb, I think you can take the yes/no argument away from some of the posts here - but the overall sense is a common experience of Rome as perhaps an acquired taste - or at least a developed sensibility. Which is good to know, I think, going in.

Also that there are factors that can greatly affect one's experience of Rome. Weather being one of them (as anywhere, but specifically here - far more so than in, say, Vienna) and the time one allows to take it in. "Rome in a hurry" is a kind of oxymoron: it took thousands of years to get this way, it can't actually be taken in in a couple of days.

Ciao !

flanneruk

Rome clearly doesn't live up to Indylady's standards of housekeeping.

But why does that make it a disappointment? Was she going there to see the art and architecture or to carry out a health inspection? Why on earth would anyone care when the flags were last washed?

If she didn't like the art and architecture, that's her privilege. But dismissing the place because it's not a Swiss pharmacy is like moaning about a hospital because you don't like the sculptures in the waiting area.