Rome: A Long Church Walk

Old May 30th, 2004, 10:13 AM
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ChatNoir
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Rome: A Long Church Walk

I'd appreciate feedback on this draft concept of exploring several churches in the SE part of Rome. Would like any rants, raves or good to know info about these places.

And please feel free to provide recommendations on other interesting places to see along the way and/or places to eat, drink or shop.

Start: San Pietro Vincoli

View church

Then walk south through the Domus Aurea green area to Via di Giovanni in Laterano, then southeast to the Church of San Clemente

View the church and ruins underground

Opposite San Clemente, walk a short ways down via dei Quercetti to the church of Santi Quattro Coronati (and cloister).

Walk back to Via di Giovanni in Laterano, turn right and walk east to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (and cloister).

Nearby options: Baptistery of San Giovanni (SW corner of Piazza) and Palazzo Lateranense / Museo Storico del Vaticano.

Walk to east side of the Piazza to view the Scala Santa (Sacred Stairs).

Then walk to Viale Carlo Felice and head east parallel to a stretch of the Aurelian Walls to Piazza di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme.

View the church of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme and relics of the Cross.

Walk to Porta San Giovanni and take the metro back

Is this too much to do in one day? Too far to walk? I guess you could do this in reverse order?
 
Old May 30th, 2004, 10:26 AM
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It's a long walk but you can do it, especially since you'll be stopping frequently and sitting inside the churches admiring the interiors while grabbing some rest for your feet. Remember that most churches (I don't think San Giovanni Laterano is one) close at 12 or 1 pm for a few hours and then reopen at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. I'd see the first three in the morning, have lunch at one of my favorite hole in the wall trattorie, Ulderico, which is directly across the street from San Clemente, then see San Giovanni Laterano et.al. after lunch.
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Old May 30th, 2004, 11:09 AM
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Thanks Grinisa - that was exactly the kind of input I was looking for.
 
Old May 30th, 2004, 12:25 PM
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One morning I set out to cover some early Christian Churches I'd missed. I began at Santa Maria Maggiore at 7:30, walked to Pudenziana (missed it and had to do some backtracking), Santa Prassede, then took the Metro to San Giovanni in Laterano, stopping at Santa Scala.

It was nearly 11 and I still had time to see Quattro Coronati which wasn't far, but I just couldn't go anymore.

Joelle
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Old May 30th, 2004, 12:43 PM
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Sounds like a very interesting day. The day we visited San Pietro Vincoli we got halfway up the stairs from the street and met a group of about 4 American women and one man. The women were refusing to continue up the stairs. (It looks unending, but it's not that bad.) The man said something like, "I'm told the climb is worth it." The women won and they all left, missing the wonderful Moses by Michelangelo. They were already more than halfway up and couldn't see the end so gave up. Don't do that. It's not much farther, just a few more stairs and Moses is definitely worth the climb.
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Old May 30th, 2004, 12:49 PM
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There are two ways to reach San Pietro in Vincoli. The first, through a dark archway on Via Cavour, only has a few steps. That's the way to go. Otherwise, you have to ascend the larger amount of stairs off Via degli Annibaldi.
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Old May 31st, 2004, 06:46 AM
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Thanks for the inputs, and the tip about avoiding steep steps was super!

Regarding Trattorie Ulderico, what are your favorite dishes?
 
Old May 31st, 2004, 07:58 AM
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Ulderico is a small trattoria frequented by Romans working in the neighborhood. Because it is across the street from San Clemente, the occasional tourist finds his way there so they do have a menu in English. My family and I have have eaten there numerous times and everything has been delicious. They make an especially good bucatini amatriciana, stewed veal and peas, fritto misto del mare and be sure to try the roast potatoes.
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Old Jun 1st, 2004, 04:33 PM
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Did this exact "tour" on Good Friday of Easter Week with one exception. I actually climbed the Scala Santa on my knees with many other Pilgrims as it was a rough 45 minutes. Have A Great Trip !!! Mike
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Old Jun 1st, 2004, 05:34 PM
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barmike, years ago, the nuns used to make us do a little knee-walking during lent on a level church floor. I can still feel the pain. Climbing steps must be a real killer.
 
Old Jun 1st, 2004, 05:38 PM
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It's not too bad. But it is discouraging when the eighty year old ladies pass you. When you get to the top, be sure to look into the chapel there. A picture of Christ said to be painted "by divine hands" is in the chapel. But it may only be visible during Holy Week.
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Old Jun 1st, 2004, 06:34 PM
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The Picture of Christ that Grinisa refers to is placed on the outdoor altar on Easter Sunday Mass in St.Peters's Square. It truly was a memorable sight. Once again, Have A Great Trip!!! Mike
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