Rome -- The next time around


Aug 29th, 2017, 10:24 AM
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Rome -- The next time around

Hello, all. It's been a long while since ms_go and I last visited the Eternal City together... but I still remember it (or most of it) like it was yesterday. Recently, we booked a 4-night stay there in November. Yes, I know, the weather may be a dicey proposition at that time. But I'm sure we'll manage.

My question is this: what are the 3 main attractions & sites that would top your list if you had already covered the usual "A" list attractions.

For reference, we have already spent time with (and taken copious pictures of):
St. Peter's
The Vatican & Museums
Castel SantAngelo & Bernini Bridge
Trevi Fountain
The Spanish Steps
Piazza del Popolo
The Colosseum
The Pantheon
The Fora
The Catacombs
Piazza Navonna
Campo de' Fiori
Galleria Borghese
Capitoline Museum

This time around, we are staying near the old Jewish Ghetto, south of the Campo de' Fiori, and are planning to do the following:
The Scavi Tour under St. Peter's
Exploring more of Trastevere than last time
Visiting Ostia Antica
Eating and drinking wine like there's no tomorrow

As you can see, the itinerary of our follow-up visit is a tad sparse (so far). So, what are your top 3 must-sees that we ain't seen?

Grazie mille!
mr_go is offline  
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Aug 29th, 2017, 10:35 AM
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Palazzo Doria Pamphilj - lots of art, nice audio guide - not very crowded
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Aug 29th, 2017, 10:36 AM
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Hi Mr Go!

How wonderful to plan a return to Rome.

Here are some suggestions :

Santa Maria degli Angeli, a church like no other,built in ancient Termes.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, a true jewel, never crowded.

Santa Maria in Trastevere, glorious mosaics.

Santa Maria Maggiore, and/or San Giovanni in Laterano and/or San Paolo Fuori le Mura. All three really magnificent.

And so much more!

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Aug 29th, 2017, 11:05 AM
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I am so happy to share something with you as your trip reports have helped us a lot, especially in Vietnam.
In Rome you shpuld visit the church of San Clemente. You walk down steps beneath the church to see several layers of antiquities, early days of Christianity when believers were persecuted, fascinating.
Also, a day trip to Tivoli Gardens and Villa d'Este is a wonderful experience.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 11:06 AM
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Baths of Caracalla

Also agree with Santa Maria Maggiore, and San Giovanni in Laterano.

If you want to eat & drink like there is no tomorrow, venture into Testaccio. Easy from your location.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 11:36 AM
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In Trastevere, I recommend a visit to the church of Santa Cecilia, an early Roman martyr. The sculptor Stefano Maderno was on hand when her tomb was opened in 1599 and her preserved body was found (a sign of her sanctity, according to the church). Maderno's sculpture of Cecilia in the apse is very evocative.

There are also some 9th century mosaics, and underneath the church, some early Roman ruins to explore. You can also head up to the choir where a late remodel uncovered beautiful 13th century frescoes by Pietro Cavallini that break with the Byzantine tradition and are more Renaissance like in their modeling and personalized depictions.

You can then move on to the Tempietto at San Pietro in Montorio, a small, perfectly proportioned chapel by Bramante that was very influential for Renaissance and Baroque architecture.

The Fonatana dell'Acqua Paola is nearby. It was built to commemorate the aqueduct that was restored by Pope Paul V.

Then back down to Santa Maria in Trastevere for the wonderful mosaics and its nice, lively square and fountain. If you still have time, on to the Villa Farnesina for the Raphael frescoes.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 11:58 AM
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Thanks, everyone... this is exactly the sort of feedback I was looking for. You people are beautiful!
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Aug 29th, 2017, 12:23 PM
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I second the Baths of Caracalla. If you're interested in Roman art and artifacts, here are some other things to consider.

The Capitoline Museums, above the Roman Forum, has a wonderful collection of ancient sculptures and other antiquities. You didn't mention the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill as having been visited before. They're certainly worth a visit. The ticket also includes entrance to the Colosseum, if you want to see it again.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, near Termini station, is one part of the National Roman Museum. It also has a world-class collection of ancient art, including sculpture, mosaics, and rare wall frescoes. There are also jewelry and household items, including some beautiful intact glass objects. The ticket gives you entrance to the other three sites of the National Roman Museum, over the course of three consecutive days. The one most worth including, in my opinion, is the Museum of the Baths of Diocletian, which is on the opposite side of the piazza in front on Termini station from Palazzo Massimo. In between these two museum, I would suggest stopping to see the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, built into part of the enormous ancient bath complex of Diocletian. Michelangelo designed the interior. There is an oculus just inside the entrance, like the one in the Pantheon, but this one is covered with a glass lantern. There is also a meridian line, used in the past to determine the exact hour of noon, based on where the sun's rays, entering from a small hole on the wall, fell on the line, which has the days of the year marked on it.

The Domus Romane, under Palazzo Valentini, is the excavation of an ancient Roman upper-class dwelling. They have an excellent sound-and-light show. They have at least one daily tour in English at that time of year (more in high season.)

I also agree with the recommendations of the Villa Farnesina and the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. Other art museums that I really like are the Barberini Gallery, and the Corsini Gallery.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 01:17 PM
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WE took ourselves to Ostia Antica and had a wonderful day. Rent the headphones if available as they let you know what you are looking at. The train to and from was easy. It's still one of our favorite side trips. Enjoy Rome!
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Aug 29th, 2017, 01:20 PM
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All of my favorite "return to Rome" places are already listed. My top three might be

Terme Caracalla, but only on a nice dry day

Palazzo Valentini

Santa Cecilia

But really, I would happily revisit every place mentioned in this thread.

Another thing we like to do is go on the Caravaggio trail:

and the Chiostro del Bramante is great, even if just for a drink or coffee.

Rome usually has at least a few temporary art exhibits to visit, and November is art season.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 01:47 PM
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Another high recommendation for the Villa d'Este in Tivoli as well as Hadrians Villa. Just loved both. Make sure the fountains are running in Nov.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 02:58 PM
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I'll 2nd or 3rd the Domus Romain and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. Very important is to have lots and lots of gelato.��.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 03:27 PM
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Before you go, try to find the time to watch this free course from Yale on Roman architecture. It will give you a lot of ideas of places to visit as well as greatly enhance your understanding of the sites:
Nikki is offline  
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Aug 29th, 2017, 06:14 PM
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Ara Pacis

Domus Aurea (but it's rarely open)

Villa Medici (tour rez required)

Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola (for Andrea Pozzo's trompe-l'oeil "dome" ceiling)

Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio
The church was built on the site of St. Peter's crucifixion, but the draw IMO is Bramante's Tempietto in the interior courtyard. The church is often closed for weddings, but if you get inside look for the tombs of a couple of Irish chieftains.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 06:58 PM
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Villa d'Este

Santa Prassede

Santa Sabina

Giardino Sant' Alessio and Knights of Malta Keyhole on Via Santa Sabina

San Giovanni In Lateran

I will be in Rome on Oct 18 with one night in Orvieto.

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Aug 29th, 2017, 07:41 PM
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I also would happily return to all the places above.

Has anyone mentioned Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (exterior was under wraps last month but interior open to the public) yet? Filippo Lippi frescoes in the Carafa chapel and Michelangelo's Cristo della Minerva.

Hard to pick favorites. I do really like Palazzo Barberini and the Capitoline museums. Nice terrace cafe for an aperitivo at the Capitoline. Another good cafe is the one at Chiostro del Bramante, where I saw a good Basquiat exhibit this July.

After many visits to Rome, I finally made it to the Palazzo Massimo and the Baths of Diocletian this past trip. Incredible. I loved the frescoes from the Villa of Livia. Can't believe it took me so long to get there. Then again, I've still never made it to Tivoli! So much to see in Rome.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 07:43 PM
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Sorry, I see you've already been to Capitoline museums.
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Aug 29th, 2017, 07:46 PM
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The Bellini and Borromini churches at the Quattro Fontane.
The National Etruscan Museum.
The Palazzo Altemps.

BTW, loved the raki in Greece, and the excellent Hotel Grotta. Thanks again!
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Aug 29th, 2017, 10:35 PM
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Aug 29th, 2017, 11:31 PM
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Same as most here.
Thermes de Caracalla
And I would probably add the maxim circus. Not much left but I loved it.
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