Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Prague, Krakow and Olomouc: trip report

Search

Prague, Krakow and Olomouc: trip report

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 27th, 2006, 01:39 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Prague, Krakow and Olomouc: trip report

8-day trip in late August (3 nights Prague, 3 nights Krakow and 1 night Olomouc)

PRAGUE
We arrived in Prague from Paris at 3pm. The airport terminal - 2N is new, clean and efficient. We got Kc at the ATM machine (on the far right wall after you claim your baggage); bought Cedez shuttle bus tickets at their booth (90 kc/each) and went to find our bus (you can skip this step and just board the van and pay directly). The bus was a mini van which leaves every 30 minutes. At 3.30 there were so many of us that they used 2 vans. This was a great deal since the price was 10% of normal hotel pickup charges and the standard stop: Nam. Republiky - dropped us off a block from our hotel.

Hotel Pariz was wonderful: we had a deluxe double for 3 nights booked via the internet at a special rate of 137€ (taxes and breakfast included). The room was big with a couch, coffee table and chairs as well as the queen bed, desk, minibar, closet and entertainment cabinet. The air-conditioning was great and the bathroom and soaps were lovely. We had a view on the municipal building and roof tops. The breakfast buffet was great and the desk staff very helpful. I will stay there again. The location was perfect and we walked most places. There is a subway stop right by the hotel and normally there are tram stops but construction is underway and they were not operational. We walked 3 blocks to a little train station/tram hub for excursions.

We saw the usual sites which I will not repeat here except for :
* The crowds at the castle were really unbelievable! Due to long lines, we visited only the royal castle and the cathedral. It looked like the crowds were less at 4pm. Thus the Prague (Matilda) card was NOT a good deal at all for us.
* We attended a performance of Don Giovanni and also a concert at St Nicolas (lesser town). Both were very enjoyable.
* We went to a flea market in Blesy which was interesting but we did not find anything to buy.
* The Mucha museum gift shop has great items for sale.


Restaurants:
"The blue rose": by the Estates Theatre. Excellent food and nice atmosphere. I had excellent mushroom soup and then little rolled pork fillet tubes stuffed with dry fruit and wrapped with bacon. DH had the traditional Czech menu with 3 kinds of dumpling. They were quite tasty although like nothing I had ever had before.
"David": by the castle
Excellent food, great service (reservations needed). I had the traditional menu which included soup, venison filet with an excellent sauce and then pancaky with blueberries. Really wonderful meal
"The 3 black roses": pub at the foot of the castle stairs
Very reasonable and decent food. I had the fried cheese with french fries and tartar sauce - very good.

After 3 nights (2 full days) we left early for our train to Krakow. We took the hotel transfer due to our very early Sunday departure from the station Prague Holesovice (15 minutes).

We really enjoyed the scenery from the train: we spotted many deer in the fields in both the Czech Republic and Poland. We changed trains in Ostrava which had only a 2nd class carriage. It was packed and it was unpleasant asking people to vacate our reserved seats. We were 6 in the carriage and even though it was very hot, the people by the window kept the window closed...

KRAKOW
Krakow train station is undergoing remodelling and it was difficult to find the exit (descend from the platform and then go up to platform 1 then down some stairs, to the main station and then follow the signs for centrum). After asking several people we finally got out and walked 5 minutes to the Hotel Pod Roza.

We arrived around 3pm and had a top floor room with a view of St Mary's towers (and bugler) and the town hall clock. The room was a bit small, the soaps were great and the bathroom and air conditioning lovely. It was odd that there was only a lamp and bedside table on one side of the bed. The hotel was nice but everything seemed a bit off. Lovely terrycloth robes but the belts were threadbare and raggedy. Breakfast buffet was only cold stuff until after our 2nd morning we were given a menu with hot items to order. There was difficulty finding tickets I had had delivered but in the end the desk found them. I am undecided about staying there again; I booked online with a rate of 550 PLN (taxes and breakfast included) which is expensive for Krakow but I wanted to stay at this historic hotel. I think I should have asked for a different room on a lower floor.
We visited the normal tourist sites plus my DH went on a self-guided tour/walk to Nowa Huta while I went on a tour to Auschwitz I and II.
* My DH said that he enjoyed his walk around Nowa Huta, I regret not being able to go too.
* Since I was going alone I preferred a group tour and I chose Malpolska tours: http://www.malopolskapks.com/ since they offered the longest time actually on site. They saved time by having a central pick-up location and not driving around for 1-2 hours picking people up at hotels. We left Matejko Square at 1.30 pm and returned there at 7.45 pm. I highly recommend them. Our tour guide, Marek, was wonderful. He provided insightful comments and fielded insensitive questions in a very professional manner. It was good for me to go to see the size of the camps, although I knew they were big, seeing it really brought it into perspective: acres upon acres of chimney stacks. It was a difficult visit but worthwhile; expecially sombering was seeing prayers being said by traditionally dressed Jewish men in the thunder storm on the side of the railroad tracks.
* Wawel hill: we reserved tickets before leaving on the trip which was fortunate since there were no tickets available when we visited. Their website gives the phone number to call. There is a small reservation charge (16 PLN) for this service. We visited the state rooms and armory. We then went on to the Cathedral to see the crypts and bells.
Restaurants: We ate very well in Poland. It was half the price of Czech Restaurants and of excellent quality.
"Jama Michalika": I had nalesniki (filled pancake) with spinach - it was wonderful plus russian pierogi (very good). I would love to return.
"Wierzynek": Excellent food and atmosphere. I had the traditional Polish menu. My DH had venison filet. I would love to return here too.
"Pod Aniolami Restaurant": I had roasted pierogi (mushroom and cabbage) and then pork kebab and apple tarte. The pierogi were excellent and then things went downhill. Nothing was bad, it was just basic fare. The experience was ruined when 30 minutes after finishing dessert we needed to ask multiple times for the bill, to pay, to leave. I would not return.
After 3 nights (again 2 full days) we walked back to the train station (very easy access) this time and boarded our train to Olomouc. We transferred in Katowice and again the scenery was very enjoyable.
OLOMOUC
I wrote my own tourist guide for this city from internet sources. Especially useful were Christina's comments from this site, Oddsocks' reports on Igougo and the Olomouc city website (plus mappy cz).
We arrived at 1.30 and found the tram stop at the train station exit, bought 2 tickets from the machine (8 Kc each) and waited for tram 1, 5 or 7. We took the tram 4 stops to the Hotel Gemo. The hotel is visible from the road and we had the best room of the trip. We had room 106 which had an entry way with closet, chair, luggage stand, window and door to the bathroom and bedroom. The bedroom was a huge corner room with 3 windows a couch chairs coffee table, queen bed, entertainment cabinet, dresser, desk and chair plus free cable internet access. Even with all the furniture there was lots of room. We paid 3300 kc (tax and breakfast included). The hotel provided a city map.

Here we visited the fountains, plague columns, astronomical clock (missed the action at noon) and the Premyslid palace. We had planned to visit the Archbishop's palace but it was exceptionally closed. We also bought 2 more tram tickets from the Tourist Info office by the clock since our tram stop did not have a machine. The old part of Olomouc is very compact and we were able to complete our visit (as well as taking a side trip to a market - just clothes and not recommended; and having a drink at a terrace) by 6 pm.

We had an early dinner at "Hanacka Hospoda" (lower square) which was excellent and very reasonable. I had the gossiping aunt's pancakes (potato pancakes topped with spinach, cheese and pork) and then a slice of honey cake (really really good layer cake with a faint ginger flavour). DH had duck with 2 types of cabbage and 2 types of dumplings. We both had beer.

We left the following morning after the good breakfast buffet for our train to Prague Holesovice. From this train station we took the AE bus (airport express bus). Normally the cost is 45 Kc each but since we had reservations from the train from Olomouc, the transfer for us was free. (The ride is also free if you have a train reservation from Ostrava.)

At the airport I tried to buy somethings at "Relay" but due to the strange handling of my credit card I refused to enter my pin number and cancelled the purchases. I was caught once at the bookshop at Gare du Nord with a similar scam. The cashier takes the card, asks you to press the "ok/validation" button, takes the credit card keypad back then asks you to enter your pin number. The result was that my credit card was used to put money on a "moneo" (cash card) card instead of paying for my book. I ended up paying 20€ for a 9€ book. My bank said I was responsible and there was nothing I could do. I was just thankful that it was a small amound taken. Maybe it was not a scam but for all other credit card purchases in CZ, I followed the "normal" procedure of just entering the pin number and then pressing ok. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

Summary: The trip was wonderful but too short; an extra day in both Prague and Krakow would have been welcome. Olomouc was a late addition to the trip and a very pleasant surprise. The amount of time spend there was perfect. When we return to Prague I would take the AE bus from and to the Airport.
moxie is offline  
Old Aug 27th, 2006, 01:59 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,037
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report. Just the right amount of detail. I'd be interested to hear your comparison of Prague and Krakow. Even in off-season we found Prague just about swallowed up in tourism and while there was plenty of tourist presence in Krakow, it seemed like we got more local flavor (someone said it's because the central square is so big, that locals must walk through it or spend too much time walkind around it.) Nonetheless, we still felt like Krakow provided a greater authenticity of experience. What's your reaction?
JulieVikmanis is offline  
Old Aug 27th, 2006, 02:02 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi moxie,

I stopped in Olomouc on route from Prague to Krakow and loved it. No crowds and the best value of my entire trip - I paid £30 for bed, breakfast and evening meal including 2 glasses of wine. It was excellent
cambe is offline  
Old Aug 27th, 2006, 02:27 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey Moxie, I am so pleased you found the 3 black roses, I have been harping on about that place here for so long, but no seems to be able to find it..lol

Isn't it the most un-pretentious place?
It has such a rustic basic no frills atmosphere, but the beer and the food are fabulous. I remember popping in there mith Mrs Muck for a quick meal at 12:00 lunchtime and came out at 4:30 with a belly full of lovely food and beer we had the most relaxing time there, highly recommended.

Muck
Mucky is offline  
Old Aug 27th, 2006, 09:43 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, I agree that you get more local flavour in Krakow. I thought that living in Paris had prepared me for tourist crowds but Prague was really over the top. My DH preferred Prague, I preferred Krakow =)

Yes Muck the 3 Black Roses was lovely. I cannot believe people have not found it, even if they don't go down the steps it is right by that big square with St Nicolas church! The waiter was a bit surly so I felt right at home

moxie is offline  
Old Aug 27th, 2006, 11:23 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Moxie,
I think people probably look for the high end smart looking places, 3BR is hardly posh, lol but it is traditional and just like a pub should be.

Muck
Mucky is offline  
Old Aug 28th, 2006, 03:58 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
moxie - Thanks for the report. What day and at what time did you visit the castle? I'm trying to figure out when the best time to visit would be.

Thanks
bailey6325 is offline  
Old Aug 28th, 2006, 10:32 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 34,858
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
very nice report. I don't remember if I suggested Hotel Gemo in Olomouc, but I stayed there myself, and also had about the best room of my vacation that summer in that hotel. What a bargain, it pays to get out of the big cities.

I had a very large, beautiful room in Pod Roza, so didn't have the experience you had there. I don't remember bathrobes as I don't usually wear hotel bathrobes, anyway, and I do think I remember the hotel buffet breakfast being mainly cold things (cereal, pastry), but that is fine with me so I wouldn't take note of it. I did have a room only one floor above ground, which was very nice.

We had very similar trips, as I just stayed at the Hotel Pariz in July, also, and really liked that hotel, also. My room was pretty reasonable with some online special, also.
Christina is offline  
Old Aug 28th, 2006, 12:14 PM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi bailey6325

We tried to visit the castle complex in Prague on a Friday at 11 am; after milling about in the human stew in the cathedral, we tried to go to golden lane but there was a line of at least 100 people waiting to get in; we then went to the royal castle which was less crowded. We gave up at around 2pm and went to the Strahov Monastery and Library (Strahovský kláster) and then to the Sternberk Palace (Sternberský palác). I was told I had to check my purse; which I refused to do so I chose to sit outside and wait for my DH. While lurking on the place in front of the castle it APPEARED that there were less crowds at 4pm.

moxie is offline  
Old Aug 28th, 2006, 12:25 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info Moxie.
bailey6325 is offline  
Old Aug 28th, 2006, 05:34 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Moxie, Great trip report. Thanks for writing it especially your instructions on how to exit the Krakow train station. Could you please answer some questions I have after reading your report? What day did you visit St. Vitus Castle and Cathedral? My DH and I are interested in attending mass there on Sunday, 9/24. I read that the cathedral is closed to tourists on Sunday mornings so I wonder how busy the castle grounds will be.
Regarding Wawel Hill, did you think the state rooms and armory were worth the time?
tomatogal is offline  
Old Aug 28th, 2006, 11:32 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the trip report Moxie, in particular your section on Olomouc. I had never even heard of this town before. We will probably be driving from Cesky Krumlov to Krakow and I had wanted to have a one night stopover somewhere inbetween. Olomouc sounds as though it might just fit the bill.
shandy is offline  
Old Aug 29th, 2006, 11:27 AM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
tomatogal: we visited Wawel hill on a Tuesday. Even if you go to mass you may like to visit the crypt and bell (not a bad climb but it's narrow) which I don't think you'll be able to do while attending services;so you may have to go to the hill twice.

Do call ahead and reserve your tickets, you don't need to pay in advance but there will be a service charge. Both the state rooms and armory are free this month on Mondays.

The walk to the Jewish ghettos old and newer one was very easy and a nice walk.

shandy: if you stay at the Gemo, ask for parking (they asked right away if I needed it) and if you reserve in advance ask for room 106
moxie is offline  
Old Aug 29th, 2006, 02:22 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Moxie,
You mentioned using a pin # when making a purchase with your cc in Prague. I have never had to use a pin # with my cc, so I am curious about this. Please explain! Thanks.
Marsh is offline  
Old Aug 29th, 2006, 10:12 PM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I live in Europe and our visa cards (usually debit not credit) all have chips so usually the cashier/waiter inserts the card in the machine and gives it to you to type in the 4 digit pin number.
moxie is offline  
Old Sep 15th, 2006, 04:59 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Enjoyed your report. I can't believe you haven't gotten any questions about the train trip from Prague to Krakow since so many people ask about it on this forum. So I'll ask a few. When and where did you book your train tickets & reserved seats? What time did you leave Prague? Were there non-smoking accomodations on both trains? If you had it to do over, would you book it the same way, or stay one night somewhere en route? Thanks.
SomewhereOutThere is offline  
Old Sep 16th, 2006, 02:09 AM
  #17  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks SOT. To answer your questions:

We booked the tickets by phone with the German rail office in our city (Paris). They mailed the tickets and reservations (only for those trains starting in Poland) to us.

I bought the CZ reservations at the little "midi" train station in Prague. The agent did not speak English but I had a printed copy of the trains I wanted and we had no problem booking.

We left Prague holesovice station at 7 am on a Sunday.

There were non-smoking sections in both 1st and 2nd class wagons BUT in the CZ Pendolino train for 1st class there was only a glass separation (there were very few people so this was not a problem).

Next time I would do the same booking; but I would make sure that I took a train with 1st class compartments if I paid for those tickets.

Staying one night in Olomouc on the way back was great. I avoided the night train only because of the border crossing at 3 am
moxie is offline  
Old Sep 16th, 2006, 10:43 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Moxie: A very nice trip report. My wife and I will spend 2 full days in Prague during May 07. We have an opportunity to extend our tour for 2 more days but not sure if its worth the additional $600. I understand the major sights can be seen in 2 days so......What would you do if you had 2 additional days in Prague?
terkar is offline  
Old Sep 17th, 2006, 05:06 AM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We missed the Jewish cemetary and St Agnes (museum). You would have a more relaxed pace if you had an extra day; with the 4th day you could go to Olomouc, which is a very nice contrast to Prague.
moxie is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hayf
Europe
10
Apr 6th, 2010 05:55 AM
Meg08
Europe
7
Jun 25th, 2007 11:44 AM
Meg08
Europe
0
Jun 20th, 2007 10:54 AM
Stanleyps
Europe
7
Dec 26th, 2006 08:17 AM
Peggy
Europe
5
Oct 16th, 2005 07:30 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -