Ozziez

We are a family of five (2 parents, and 3 children: 17, 12 and 10). We will be spending 3 days in Florence in mid-December, having spent 12 days covering Salzburg, Cesky Krumlov, Prague, Dresden, and Rome.

I have prepared a draft itinerary for Florence. This was no easy task because:

1. Although I adore art and history, we will have already spent quite a bit of time during our 5 days in Rome in museums, historical sites, churches, etc.
2. The children really, really, really want to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa (I’m the only one in the family who has seen it) which necessitates a half-day trip from Florence
3. I have tried to build in shopping time for my teenage girls

I have omitted many popular sites. My reasons for doing so (these reasons might be completely wrong, so please let me know) are:

1. All sites South of the Arno, due to time (and also because we will already be seeing plenty of art, museums and churches). Therefore Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens, Church of San Felicita, Piazzale Michaelangelo, San Miniato al Monte, Santa Spirito, and the Brancacci Chapel have been omitted
2. Orsanmichelle is closed at the moment and the Science museum is only partly open
3. The Palazzo Vecchio and Santa Croce Church due to time limitations and art/museum/church overload.

Please look at my draft itinerary for Florence and tell me:

1. What I can leave out (I have put asterisks next to the things we really, really want to see/do)
2. what I have missed
3. if the order of sights needs to be rearranged.

Day 1 – Monday
* 10:50am – ES train to Florence from Rome, arriving in Florence at 12:30pm
* Take taxi to Residenza Il Villino in Via della Pergolla (near the Accademia)
* Duomo – look at outside & inside (open 10:00 – 17:00)
* Climb up to the top of the Duomo Dome and admire the view (open 8.30-19:00)
* Baptistry – outside & inside (open 12:00-19:00)
* Museo dell Opera del Duomo (open 9:00-19:30)
Maybe climb the Campanile (open 8:30-19:30)
* Walk to the Ponte Vecchio
* Dinner

Day 2 – Tuesday
* Walk past and look at Spedale degli Innocenti
* 8.15am – Accademia
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure (open 8:15-14:00)
Santissima Annunziata to see cloister and church (open 7:30-12:00, 16:00-18:30)
Museo Covento di San Marco (open 8:15-13:50)
* San Lorenzo outdoor markets (open 9:00 – 19:30)
* Mercado Centrale market (open 7:00 – 14:00)
* Lunch at Nerbones, at NE door of Mercato Centrale
de Medici Chapel, behind San Lorenzo Church (open 8:15-17:50)
Santa Maria Novella Church & Farmacia (open 9:30-17:00)
* Museo Nazionale Bargello (open 8:15-18:00)

Day 3 – Wednesday
8.15am – Uffizi (please don’t be shocked that there is no asterisk next to this. I am the only member of the family who really wants to go here).
* walk through Piazza della Signoria, looking at the sculptures
Davanzati Museum (open 8:15-13:30)
* 11:57 train to Pisa, arriving 13:06. Take bus to Leaning Tower
* Leaning tower (open 10.00 - 17.00)
* Duomo (open 10.00 - 13.00 / 14.00 - 17.00)
Baptistry (open 10.00 - 17.00)
* 16:29 train to Florence, arriving 17:33
* Mercato del Porcellino/Mercato Nuovo (open 9:00-19:30)

manxcat

bookmarking

kayd

There's no law that says all five people need to do everything together. Split up for an afternoon if one child has an interest that the other two don't share. Eg, mother and girl(s) go shopping while dad and boy(s) view an exhibit of medieval weaponry.

Allow some time for just plain wandering around, be surprised and delighted at what you had not planned for. And remember that your children will have ample opportunity to return to Europe -- leave them wanting more, rather than feeling they have been put through a forced march through everything there is to see.

I'm sure you will all have a great time.

adrienne

You omitted some of my favorites but in 2.5 days you can only do so much. I think it's better to see a few things in depth than to race around and remember nothing.

Read Brunelleschi's Dome by Ross King as a family before you go. It's short and gives an interesting history of building the dome and of politics/intrigues of the time.

Make sure you climb the dome before dark to get a good view of the city.

If you do decide to go to Santa Maria Novella church go in the morning as I waited 2 afternoons for it to reopen and it didn't. Very disappointing.

Florence is small and compact so you won't have much walking time between sights.

Day 2 I would save shopping for the afternoon (something for the kids to look forward to) and do the Bargello in the morning.

Piazza della Signoria is on the way to the Ponte Vecchio so you can move this from Day 3 to Day 1.

The Pitti Palace is large and will take a lot of time so yes - leave this out. The Brancacci Chapel while #1 for me is out of the way and will take too long. I recommended Santo Spirito to my niece and told her how fabulous it was so she went (although it was on the way to the Brancacci Chapel so she didn't go out of her way) and she told me it was boring. Go figure. So it would be a good idea to leave this out as well.

You might have too many museums (I count 3 in 2.5 days). I'd rethink the Accademia, especially at 8:15 am. Your children might rebel. I think they might like the Bargello more.

SusanP

After what you're doing in Rome, I once again think you have too much scheduled.

On the first day, you don't mention any time for lunch. Just do the Duomo, including climbing the dome, which the kids will probably like, and the Baptistry. Then just wander over towards the Ponte Vecchio, doing some shopping, or looking at something if it catches your interest.

On the second day, I would definitely not skip the Accademia. Do that so they can see David and then go to San Marco, which is very close. Then just let them relax and have fun at the markets.

I have no problem at all with skipping the Uffizi. They will enjoy the sculptures in Piazza della Signoria, and maybe grab a snack there before heading to Pisa.

I realize this leaves out a lot you have listed, but really, it hits a few highlights while leaving time to stroll and relax and shop.

Ozziez

Thanks for the great advice everyone!

I must say that I am struggling with whether to go to the Uffizi or not.

We will have already seen lots of art in Rome at:
The Vatican
The churches of Santa Maria del Popolo, San Ignazio, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, San Luigi dei Francesi, and a few other churches.

We will be seeing quite a lot of art in the other places we are visiting in Florence. Also, we are going to Paris and will definitely go to the Louvre, and we're going to Berlin where we were planning to go to the Gemaldegalerie. Bearing in mind that I am the only real art-lover in the family (my children like art but may be a bit sick of it by the time we get to Florence), would it be a terrible sin to skip the Uffizi, especially in light of the fact that 3 kids are involved?

I have also read reports that the art is not displayed to its best advantage in the Uffizi - is this true?

rncheryl

Make sure to allow leather shopping. Also, where is The David? Seem anyone even remotely interested in art would love to see this. Easy to make this a short trip, too.

Ozziez

Hi rncheryl

Thanks for the tip about the leather shopping. The David is happening at 8.15am on the Tuesday.

tuscanlifeedit

Hi Ozziez

Day 2 is pretty crowded and some of the sites are repetitive in terms of history or architectural style. You may find yourselves in a whirl.

Day 2 – Tuesday

Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure (open 8:15-14:00)

The above museum wouldn't be on my list, especially if I was skipping something as significant as Santa Croce with its own cloisters and outstanding monuments. Great outdoor spaces, too.

Santissima Annunziata to see cloister and church (open 7:30-12:00, 16:00-18:30)
Museo Covento di San Marco (open 8:15-13:50)

The San Marco complex is stunning. I would skip Santissima Annunziata in order to have time to see each of the cells at San Marco. Also, the San Marco cloister is as pretty and private as any you could see.

* San Lorenzo outdoor markets (open 9:00 – 19:30)
* Mercado Centrale market (open 7:00 – 14:00)
* Lunch at Nerbones, at NE door of Mercato Centrale
de Medici Chapel, behind San Lorenzo Church (open 8:15-17:50)

The above is a lot and you will have a hard time shooting through the San Lorenzo market with kids. They usually love to browse there.

Santa Maria Novella Church & Farmacia (open 9:30-17:00)

I have been to both of the above several times and although they are very interesting, IMO neither holds its own with some of the other world class sites on your list. You could skip both. The Farmacia is a very (and I mean VERY) fancy little store with quite (and I mean QUITE) expensive creams, lotions, potions, and scents. While it is lovely, you will be in many lovely buildings, and this one isn't at all kid friendly. It isn't even adult friendly, IMO. Shopping is done with counter persons, and not through browsing and picking things up.

* Museo Nazionale Bargello (open 8:15-18:00)

The Bargello is a great museum. I love it, and it has enough stuff that will hold the kids' attention, as it was a prison, and the collection is lively.

On day 3, I don't think you need to squeeze a museum in before and after Pisa. Seems like a lot.

Ozziez

Hi truscanlifeedit

Thank you so much for your reply. I have made all the amendments you have suggested. Also, it is so helpful to know "insider" information about things such as the nature of shopping at the Farmacia - not being able to browse and touch would definitely make it very boring for the kids (and me!)

mariebut

Hi again Ozziez, your trip is sounding wonderful. Just a cuouple of ideas following our trip recently. There are long lines for the Duomo climb so would suggest waiting til early evening to do when crowds are less. San Lorenzo markets are fantastic for leather and all things your teenage girls will love, mine did, we spent hours there. Try and get to Mercato Centrale early in the day too - very nice stand up coffee downstairs too. I too agree with the comments regarding the Farmacia, beautiful store but felt uncomfortable about service or lack of. (As fellow aussies perhaps we looked too much like tourists and not able to afford the products!!!).
We also had a wonderful day out in Tuscany with a driver, found SanGimignano and Greve beautiful towns to wander around in.

Ozziez

Hi Marie - great to hear from you! Thanks so much for the input - greatly appreciated and carefully noted. Do you think that we could skip the Uffizi, bearing in mind what I have said above?

trotsky

Ozziez- I know you are attempting to "tighten" your list, but if you can possibly squeeze it in, (and if you love shoes)- there is a wonderful Ferragamo museum, which is not often mentioned in the Florentine "mustdos" You could combine a shop stop (or at least a window shop) with a museum- how virtuous From another Aussie, you will love Italy. Just embrace serendipity- Italy may not happen as you expect, but all will turn out well. Enjoy trotsky

Ozziez

Oooh Trotsky - how absolutely wonderful. I love shoes (my middle name should be Imelda). Thank you for telling me about this. I've just looked it up on the web. Do you need to make reservations to see it - it says "make reservations" but does this mean they are mandatory?

trotsky

I suppose if they ask for reservations, then it would be best to do do. Having said that, it is Italy- where there seem to be no rules, and there always seems to be a way around things. We booked & had no problems. And please, when you return post a trip report so I can again vicariously relive happy times in the country of my heart Trotsky

Ozziez

OK, will do!

ellenem

Ozziez,

I am one who would encourage you to skip the Uffizi. I have an art degree yet I don't feel the Uffizi will be the best time spent for your family. It's ill-labeled, ill-lit, and ill-hung and may contain too many Madonnas for a family that's already visited a number of museums in Rome. I think this is a difficult museum for those unfamiliar with the art on display. Yes--visit the Accademia and be sure to take a look at the musical instrument exhibit there for a little hands-on fun.

I agree with others about the Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure and Santa Maria Novella Farmacia--easily skippable.

On the other hand, I suspect in December later in the day the lines will be short at the Uffizi. On your own, you could sneak over to the Uffizi for a quick visit in the late afternoon when the rest of the family has gone to crash at the hotel before dinner. With fewer crowds, you could probably see most of your interests in 1-1.5 hours.

I disagree with your point about skipping the area south of the Arno altogether. It is not that far from the center of town and it is an excellent area to wander on less-crowded streets. Skip the museums there and just wander. Get some exercise and climb the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo for a lovely view of the city. (You can also take the #12 or 13 bus or a taxi up the hill and then walk down.) Visit the expansive cemetery behind nearby San Miniato. From this vantage point you also have a good sense of the green hills and houses with gardens that surround Florence. This is the kind of moment that might stick in your children's memories long after they've forgotten which Madonna was in which museum.

Ozziez

Hello ellenem! Thanks for the sage advice about the Uffizi - it has been preying on my mind all day. I'll do as you suggest and try to go later in the day on my own.

OK, Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure and Santa Maria Novella Farmacia have gone onto the scrap heap.

Also, thanks for telling me about the area south of the Arno - sounds like something we will all enjoy, so I've added it to our list.

mariebut

Hi Ozziez, to be honest I would probably give the Uffizzi a miss or as ellenem suggested nip over by yourself. We intended to visit the museum although like you we had already seen many in London and Paris so we didn't end up making reservations but quickly had a look through at about 5.30pm with no lines and crowds. ( I actually thought it closed later than it did so we didn't have much time) Your visit to the Accademia may be enough for you all.

Ozziez

Thanks Marie. This is what I'll do.