Paris & Bruges 2009 - a trip report
May 22nd, 2009 | 02:36 PM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Ahh. This time last week, I was in Paris celebrating my birthday. Coming back hasn't been as hard as before.
First, I want to say a huge THANKS! to all the Fodorites who gave helpful advice/information via their trip reports and/or direct answers to my question (esp. about dinner for my birthday).
I flew out of JFK and the flight over was uneventful (= a good thing). There was even a seat in between me and the other person on my row. That was very nice.
I landed and got through immigration rather quickly. It helped that I was seated close to the exit. When I landed, I had some Euros in both bills and coins. However, I didn't have enough coins to buy my ticket for the RER train. The machines in the station did not have capabilities to accept bills. Not fun. So, instead of standing in line at the manned ticket window, I went and purchased a bottle of water at the Tabac. Voila! I had enough change.
I went to the track and this is where I put to work the information I gleaned from this board. I looked at the TV monitor that showed the next trains to Paris. I found a KROL train. I had about a 10 minute wait - I wasn't on a time table to get to my apartment. While I was waiting, a group of girls were looking at the monitors and trying to figure out which train to take into Paris. I told them (in English) about the KROL train and how it was like an express train. Tres cool.
The train ride into Paris was fine. The apartment was in the 6th and I got off at the St. Michel stop per the directions the apartment company sent me. As I made it up the stairs to the outside, I found that it was raining! Good thing I had my umbrella.
The landlord was scheduled to meet me at the apartment at 10:40 a.m., but before I left, she emailed me and said it would be 11:30 a.m. instead. So, in the rain, I found the apartment. It took me a bit to get to the right street, but a stranger helped me. That was very nice. I found the apartment and then proceeded to walk about - with my luggage in the rain!
I gave up at some point in trying to find a cafe to sit and chill. I had the key to the gate and went inside to wait (out of the rain). While I was waiting, either the owner or an employee of the store next door came in. She offered me a place in her store to sit and wait. Again, very nice.
I sat there and eventually contacted the landlord since she was late. The Metro was running a bit behind, I guess. So, I made my way up to the apartment. Now, this apartment was up on the 5th floor without a lift. The stairs were a bit narrow in places and were in spiral design. I tried to pack light, but still . . . I made it.
The landlord made it and she showed me how to use the key to get in. The apartment was as advertised on the site I used (ahparis.com). I did have a view of the Eiffel Tower from the window in the living room. The downside to the apartment (besides the 5 flights of stairs) is that there are no drawers or storage for clothes. There also wasn't a closet, but coat hangers and an exterior coat hanger rack.
The apartment had a TV and WiFi (recent upgrades, I think). The shower and the toilet were in separate rooms. The washer was in the room with the shower. I unpacked and took a shower. I was ready to hit the streets. I had purchased 4 tickets when I arrived at the station, but somewhere between there and going out a bit later, I lost the tickets! I was quite bummed. So, as any other traveler would do (or not), I decided to walk.
I walked and walked all the way to the Ladurée located on Rue Royale. On my way there, I went through the a garden near the Louvre that I had never been to before. They had statues and other trimmed shrubbery that was new to me. However, I was quite hungry and literally sprinted by it!
Some may ask why I chose the Ladurée on Rue Royale instead of the one on Rue Bonaparte. The only reason why I chose this one is because I've always eaten at this one on my first day in Paris. It's a tradition!
Before I got to the salon, I did a bit of window shopping on Rue Royale. Since my birthday was the next day, I restrained myself from buying anything.
What would turn out to be not only my lunch but my dinner as well, I ordered the Salade Concorde. Yummy. I had a bottle of mineral water, ordered dessert (Saint Honoré Rose Framboise), and a Cafe Ladurée. Let's just say that I was very full afterwards, but very, very happy! The salon was quite busy. They've done a bit of rearranging since the last time I was there.
Fatigue was settling in so I made my way back to the apartment. I stopped by the local grocer and picked up some chocolate pudding (a lot different that what is found in the US), some strawberries (they were gorgeous) and raspberries, and a bottle of water. I made it up the 5 flights of stairs. I had just barely put things away when someone knocked at my door.
I was hesitant and kept saying "quoi" and the person said they lived downstairs. Side note: the landlady told me about a tenant who was a retired teacher who liked to talk. She also pointed out that his bed was located right underneath the place where the table and chairs were located. She told me not to talk to him.
I opened the door and standing in front of me was the tenant who lived on the 4th floor and whose bed was located under the floor where the table and chairs were located. Hmm.
In essence, he wanted to "see" me since I was renting the place (I assume for security purposes?) and tell me about a few rules. I could not walk on the side of the apartment where his bed was located on the floor below as well as making no noise after 10:00 p.m. Basically, I had been given curfew. I did agree to these rules. Normally, it wouldn't be a problem since I'm not a night owl, but there were times when I had to rush back in order not to break "curfew." (More about that later)
Jet lag was seriously hitting me at this point so I sketched out a loose itinerary for the next day and went to bed. I think I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. This was around 7:45 - 8:00 p.m. The bad thing about this was that I awoke at 1:00 a.m. and could not go back to sleep until 4:00 a.m.
Day 2 - awakened by the architect, celebrating my birthday, and an amazing meal at Le Florimond.
First, I want to say a huge THANKS! to all the Fodorites who gave helpful advice/information via their trip reports and/or direct answers to my question (esp. about dinner for my birthday).
I flew out of JFK and the flight over was uneventful (= a good thing). There was even a seat in between me and the other person on my row. That was very nice.
I landed and got through immigration rather quickly. It helped that I was seated close to the exit. When I landed, I had some Euros in both bills and coins. However, I didn't have enough coins to buy my ticket for the RER train. The machines in the station did not have capabilities to accept bills. Not fun. So, instead of standing in line at the manned ticket window, I went and purchased a bottle of water at the Tabac. Voila! I had enough change.
I went to the track and this is where I put to work the information I gleaned from this board. I looked at the TV monitor that showed the next trains to Paris. I found a KROL train. I had about a 10 minute wait - I wasn't on a time table to get to my apartment. While I was waiting, a group of girls were looking at the monitors and trying to figure out which train to take into Paris. I told them (in English) about the KROL train and how it was like an express train. Tres cool.
The train ride into Paris was fine. The apartment was in the 6th and I got off at the St. Michel stop per the directions the apartment company sent me. As I made it up the stairs to the outside, I found that it was raining! Good thing I had my umbrella.
The landlord was scheduled to meet me at the apartment at 10:40 a.m., but before I left, she emailed me and said it would be 11:30 a.m. instead. So, in the rain, I found the apartment. It took me a bit to get to the right street, but a stranger helped me. That was very nice. I found the apartment and then proceeded to walk about - with my luggage in the rain!
I gave up at some point in trying to find a cafe to sit and chill. I had the key to the gate and went inside to wait (out of the rain). While I was waiting, either the owner or an employee of the store next door came in. She offered me a place in her store to sit and wait. Again, very nice.
I sat there and eventually contacted the landlord since she was late. The Metro was running a bit behind, I guess. So, I made my way up to the apartment. Now, this apartment was up on the 5th floor without a lift. The stairs were a bit narrow in places and were in spiral design. I tried to pack light, but still . . . I made it.
The landlord made it and she showed me how to use the key to get in. The apartment was as advertised on the site I used (ahparis.com). I did have a view of the Eiffel Tower from the window in the living room. The downside to the apartment (besides the 5 flights of stairs) is that there are no drawers or storage for clothes. There also wasn't a closet, but coat hangers and an exterior coat hanger rack.
The apartment had a TV and WiFi (recent upgrades, I think). The shower and the toilet were in separate rooms. The washer was in the room with the shower. I unpacked and took a shower. I was ready to hit the streets. I had purchased 4 tickets when I arrived at the station, but somewhere between there and going out a bit later, I lost the tickets! I was quite bummed. So, as any other traveler would do (or not), I decided to walk.
I walked and walked all the way to the Ladurée located on Rue Royale. On my way there, I went through the a garden near the Louvre that I had never been to before. They had statues and other trimmed shrubbery that was new to me. However, I was quite hungry and literally sprinted by it!
Some may ask why I chose the Ladurée on Rue Royale instead of the one on Rue Bonaparte. The only reason why I chose this one is because I've always eaten at this one on my first day in Paris. It's a tradition!
Before I got to the salon, I did a bit of window shopping on Rue Royale. Since my birthday was the next day, I restrained myself from buying anything.
What would turn out to be not only my lunch but my dinner as well, I ordered the Salade Concorde. Yummy. I had a bottle of mineral water, ordered dessert (Saint Honoré Rose Framboise), and a Cafe Ladurée. Let's just say that I was very full afterwards, but very, very happy! The salon was quite busy. They've done a bit of rearranging since the last time I was there.
Fatigue was settling in so I made my way back to the apartment. I stopped by the local grocer and picked up some chocolate pudding (a lot different that what is found in the US), some strawberries (they were gorgeous) and raspberries, and a bottle of water. I made it up the 5 flights of stairs. I had just barely put things away when someone knocked at my door.
I was hesitant and kept saying "quoi" and the person said they lived downstairs. Side note: the landlady told me about a tenant who was a retired teacher who liked to talk. She also pointed out that his bed was located right underneath the place where the table and chairs were located. She told me not to talk to him.
I opened the door and standing in front of me was the tenant who lived on the 4th floor and whose bed was located under the floor where the table and chairs were located. Hmm.
In essence, he wanted to "see" me since I was renting the place (I assume for security purposes?) and tell me about a few rules. I could not walk on the side of the apartment where his bed was located on the floor below as well as making no noise after 10:00 p.m. Basically, I had been given curfew. I did agree to these rules. Normally, it wouldn't be a problem since I'm not a night owl, but there were times when I had to rush back in order not to break "curfew." (More about that later)
Jet lag was seriously hitting me at this point so I sketched out a loose itinerary for the next day and went to bed. I think I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. This was around 7:45 - 8:00 p.m. The bad thing about this was that I awoke at 1:00 a.m. and could not go back to sleep until 4:00 a.m.
Day 2 - awakened by the architect, celebrating my birthday, and an amazing meal at Le Florimond.
May 22nd, 2009 | 04:19 PM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Day 2: It's my birthday and I'll dance if I want to . . .
As I stated in Day 1's post, the landlord told me that the architect was scheduled to stop by early in the morning. I was prepared but was still surprised when I heard a knock at the door and then the key turning the lock. I was still in bed - remember, I woke up at 1:00 a.m. and did not get back to sleep until 4:00 a.m. I was tired.
The guys came in and did their thing. The one actually doing the work left and came back a bit later. I didn't know this at time or otherwise I would have taken my shower while no one was there except me. As it was, I dilly-dallied and when he returned, I waited for about 10 minutes and then hopped into the shower. No biggie.
Got dressed and headed out - again to light rain. This was to be the theme throughout my trip. The day before, I wore a pair of sandals that I thought would be good, but they turned out to be not so good. I had major blisters on the bottom of my feet. This was not good because I brought those to wear with my dress to dinner that night. It's a good thing that the apartment was located in an area I dubbed "shoe center." There were lots of shoe stores along the way to the metro. I found a Clarks store and purchased a pair of dressy sandals. I originally thought a pair of flats would work, but when another customer tried on these sandals, I asked the store clerk if he had them in my size. He had them in a size bigger and they fit. I loved them.
I told the lady that I was copying her and she graciously (with humor) said that she would let me this time! It was quite fun. The store clerk wished me a happy birthday and I was on my way!
Now, I wish I could chalk it up to lack of sleep, lack of caffeine, or what have you, but sadly, it's because I was lacking common sense at that particular moment. So, I hopped on the Metro at St. Placide (#4 line) and transferred to the #2 line instead of using the #1 line. I knew this one ended at the Champs-Élysées, which is where I wanted to go, but for some reason, I got on and went in the direction of Nation! Oops. The good thing about it was that I got to see parts of Paris I've never seen before. I got to ride the #2 line from one end to the other. Oh well.
I walked through the long tunnel from the train to the exit. When I made it to the top, the Arc de Triomphe greeted me. It was simply gorgeous. I love Paris.
My goal on the Champs-Élysées was to visit the Peugeot show room and look for unique gifts for friends and family. The rain decided to make an appearance again. This time a bit harder. The Peugeot show room had cool cars - this year's theme was the 25 year relationship with Roland Garros. The "chandelier" was made out of tennis balls. Very cute. I purchased a T-shirt. Again, a tradition.
I then walked into Louis Vuitton. I had read in my guide book that they had things that I couldn't find in the US. This stuff was way out of my price range, but it was fun to look! I crossed back over the Champs-Élysées and went into the Disney store. Not much there for me to consider. I stopped in the Swatch store and purchased a new watch. A birthday gift for myself. Whee!
With the rain coming down harder, I decided to get to the next thing on my list: Shakespeare & Company bookstore. I had written down the address, pulled out my trusty map of Paris, and set forth. The guide book said it was near Notre Dame so that's the direction in which I headed. Walked through some lovely areas, saw the hospital workers demonstrations, and still managed to carry my shoes in their box.
Along the way, I met a student visiting from the Netherlands. She was headed towards Notre Dame and so we made the trip. It was fun talking with her. I went about in circles trying to find it and never did. Oh well. I'll save it for my next trip! I made my way to St. Germain des Pres. I was getting hungry by this time. I didn't want to spoil my dinner so I needed to choose well. I have to confess, I did walk into the McDonald's near the intersection of St. Michel and St. Germain, BUT I walked back out without ordering anything. I found a take away near by and instead ordered a ham and cheese panini with an iced tea. So much better!
By this time, the sun started shining. I wound up walking towards the Musée d'Orsay. I didn't go in, but sat on the steps and just rested. It felt good. I got organized and then headed back to the apartment for a bit of rest before heading to dinner.
On my way home, I stopped in Le Bon Marché(it was located at the end of rue St. Placide). A very, very nice store. I didn't find anything to purchase (I was seeking out Longchamps key chains) so I left. I got back to the apartment and dropped everything (not too loudly though). I looked up the restaurant's street and saw that I would have to make a few transfers to get there (it wound up being 3) and it was close to 6:00 p.m. I wound up having only 10 minutes of rest. I changed and then headed back out.
I got off at the École Militaire stop and found the street, but initially went the wrong way. My 7:00 p.m. reservation time was getting closer and closer. I found the restaurant and was the first person there. The host greeted me (from behind a curtain!) and seated me at my table. The restaurant started to fill up about 10 minutes after I arrived.
I chose the prix fixe menu at 36€. I had an amuse-bouche that had a hint of cumin in it. I can't recall any other ingredient, though. For my entrée, I chose the smoked salmon on top of lettuce with shredded cucumbers and carrots, radishes, and a very tangy tomato dressing. It was served in a glass cup. Very good. The plat was I had the stuffed cabbage (according to the menu, it was his grandmother's recipe) with an amazing gravy. Yummy and very, very filling. The cabbage was stuffed with pork.
Now, le Pièce de résistance was the dessert. I chose the chocolat mousse marquise. It was sliced almost like a piece of bread cooked in a loaf pan. In the middle was an apricot gelatin square. Accompanying the mousse was a scoop of dark chocolate ice cream with apricot sauce on the side. Ooh la la! I didn't think one could swoon over chocolate, but I did. It was divine. Thankfully, I had ordered un cafe to break up the richness (the cafe was an extra 3€).
Across and sort of diagonal from me sat a couple who had ordered the same dessert to share. I believe the woman swooned as well! They were able to finish the dessert; I wasn't able. 
We had a nice conversation and they wished me happy birthday as well. It turns out that the woman's birthday was also in May, but a few days before mine.
The host/waiter and the waitress were extremely nice. They were the only 2 working in the dining room. It definitely got busy at 8:00 p.m. The host/waiter wore a Tweety Bird tie. Very fun. I have to say that, so far, this was one of the best birthday dinners I've had in a while.
Again, thank you to those that recommended Le Florimond and for those that gave encouraging comments on my post. For those that are interested, you definitely need to make reservations. I think there were about 12 tables in the entire dining room.
I probably should have walked home, but didn't. I walked back to the Metro and stayed on the #8 all the way until I could transfer to the #4. Yay! Not sure why I didn't notice this before. Oh well. I made it back to the apartment with about 20 minutes to spare before "curfew."
Before falling asleep, I set my alarm for 6:30 a.m. I was heading to Bruges, Belgium on Saturday.
Day 3: Bruges, Belgium (in the rain)
As I stated in Day 1's post, the landlord told me that the architect was scheduled to stop by early in the morning. I was prepared but was still surprised when I heard a knock at the door and then the key turning the lock. I was still in bed - remember, I woke up at 1:00 a.m. and did not get back to sleep until 4:00 a.m. I was tired.
The guys came in and did their thing. The one actually doing the work left and came back a bit later. I didn't know this at time or otherwise I would have taken my shower while no one was there except me. As it was, I dilly-dallied and when he returned, I waited for about 10 minutes and then hopped into the shower. No biggie.
Got dressed and headed out - again to light rain. This was to be the theme throughout my trip. The day before, I wore a pair of sandals that I thought would be good, but they turned out to be not so good. I had major blisters on the bottom of my feet. This was not good because I brought those to wear with my dress to dinner that night. It's a good thing that the apartment was located in an area I dubbed "shoe center." There were lots of shoe stores along the way to the metro. I found a Clarks store and purchased a pair of dressy sandals. I originally thought a pair of flats would work, but when another customer tried on these sandals, I asked the store clerk if he had them in my size. He had them in a size bigger and they fit. I loved them.
I told the lady that I was copying her and she graciously (with humor) said that she would let me this time! It was quite fun. The store clerk wished me a happy birthday and I was on my way!
Now, I wish I could chalk it up to lack of sleep, lack of caffeine, or what have you, but sadly, it's because I was lacking common sense at that particular moment. So, I hopped on the Metro at St. Placide (#4 line) and transferred to the #2 line instead of using the #1 line. I knew this one ended at the Champs-Élysées, which is where I wanted to go, but for some reason, I got on and went in the direction of Nation! Oops. The good thing about it was that I got to see parts of Paris I've never seen before. I got to ride the #2 line from one end to the other. Oh well.
I walked through the long tunnel from the train to the exit. When I made it to the top, the Arc de Triomphe greeted me. It was simply gorgeous. I love Paris.
My goal on the Champs-Élysées was to visit the Peugeot show room and look for unique gifts for friends and family. The rain decided to make an appearance again. This time a bit harder. The Peugeot show room had cool cars - this year's theme was the 25 year relationship with Roland Garros. The "chandelier" was made out of tennis balls. Very cute. I purchased a T-shirt. Again, a tradition.
I then walked into Louis Vuitton. I had read in my guide book that they had things that I couldn't find in the US. This stuff was way out of my price range, but it was fun to look! I crossed back over the Champs-Élysées and went into the Disney store. Not much there for me to consider. I stopped in the Swatch store and purchased a new watch. A birthday gift for myself. Whee!
With the rain coming down harder, I decided to get to the next thing on my list: Shakespeare & Company bookstore. I had written down the address, pulled out my trusty map of Paris, and set forth. The guide book said it was near Notre Dame so that's the direction in which I headed. Walked through some lovely areas, saw the hospital workers demonstrations, and still managed to carry my shoes in their box.
Along the way, I met a student visiting from the Netherlands. She was headed towards Notre Dame and so we made the trip. It was fun talking with her. I went about in circles trying to find it and never did. Oh well. I'll save it for my next trip! I made my way to St. Germain des Pres. I was getting hungry by this time. I didn't want to spoil my dinner so I needed to choose well. I have to confess, I did walk into the McDonald's near the intersection of St. Michel and St. Germain, BUT I walked back out without ordering anything. I found a take away near by and instead ordered a ham and cheese panini with an iced tea. So much better!
By this time, the sun started shining. I wound up walking towards the Musée d'Orsay. I didn't go in, but sat on the steps and just rested. It felt good. I got organized and then headed back to the apartment for a bit of rest before heading to dinner.
On my way home, I stopped in Le Bon Marché(it was located at the end of rue St. Placide). A very, very nice store. I didn't find anything to purchase (I was seeking out Longchamps key chains) so I left. I got back to the apartment and dropped everything (not too loudly though). I looked up the restaurant's street and saw that I would have to make a few transfers to get there (it wound up being 3) and it was close to 6:00 p.m. I wound up having only 10 minutes of rest. I changed and then headed back out.
I got off at the École Militaire stop and found the street, but initially went the wrong way. My 7:00 p.m. reservation time was getting closer and closer. I found the restaurant and was the first person there. The host greeted me (from behind a curtain!) and seated me at my table. The restaurant started to fill up about 10 minutes after I arrived.
I chose the prix fixe menu at 36€. I had an amuse-bouche that had a hint of cumin in it. I can't recall any other ingredient, though. For my entrée, I chose the smoked salmon on top of lettuce with shredded cucumbers and carrots, radishes, and a very tangy tomato dressing. It was served in a glass cup. Very good. The plat was I had the stuffed cabbage (according to the menu, it was his grandmother's recipe) with an amazing gravy. Yummy and very, very filling. The cabbage was stuffed with pork.
Now, le Pièce de résistance was the dessert. I chose the chocolat mousse marquise. It was sliced almost like a piece of bread cooked in a loaf pan. In the middle was an apricot gelatin square. Accompanying the mousse was a scoop of dark chocolate ice cream with apricot sauce on the side. Ooh la la! I didn't think one could swoon over chocolate, but I did. It was divine. Thankfully, I had ordered un cafe to break up the richness (the cafe was an extra 3€).
Across and sort of diagonal from me sat a couple who had ordered the same dessert to share. I believe the woman swooned as well!
They were able to finish the dessert; I wasn't able. We had a nice conversation and they wished me happy birthday as well. It turns out that the woman's birthday was also in May, but a few days before mine.The host/waiter and the waitress were extremely nice. They were the only 2 working in the dining room. It definitely got busy at 8:00 p.m. The host/waiter wore a Tweety Bird tie. Very fun. I have to say that, so far, this was one of the best birthday dinners I've had in a while.
Again, thank you to those that recommended Le Florimond and for those that gave encouraging comments on my post. For those that are interested, you definitely need to make reservations. I think there were about 12 tables in the entire dining room.
I probably should have walked home, but didn't. I walked back to the Metro and stayed on the #8 all the way until I could transfer to the #4. Yay! Not sure why I didn't notice this before. Oh well. I made it back to the apartment with about 20 minutes to spare before "curfew."
Before falling asleep, I set my alarm for 6:30 a.m. I was heading to Bruges, Belgium on Saturday.
Day 3: Bruges, Belgium (in the rain)
May 22nd, 2009 | 04:59 PM
#7
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Day 3: Bruges
I awoke before the alarm and got ready. Even though I had a "night curfew," I wasn't sure if I had a "morning curfew." After all, it was Saturday. I got ready and headed out to the Metro and Gare du Nord. I didn't eat breakfast. Side note: for some reason or another, I did not eat breakfast until my last day in Paris. Go figure.
I made it to Gare du Nord and walked through the maze that would take me to the train station. I had forgotten how long the walk is from the Metro stop to the actual train station. I was cutting things a bit close as far as time went.
I walked past Paul's in the train station and saw only one person manning both the counter and the register so I passed. Found the train and the correct track and got on board. Again, still haven't eaten but also still full after last night's dinner.
I fell asleep on my way to Bruges. The train stopped in Brussels and my seat mate left. The skies were still cloudy. Note: the train staff checked our tickets when we left Paris and again when we left Brussels. Arrived at Bruges at the train station and promptly went to the Tourist Office to get a map. I wound up purchasing a guide book that had walking tours, etc. for 2€.
I then made my way out into Bruges. Had I been smart, I would have taken the bus to the center, but no, I decided to walk. I had no idea where I was going so I did as any good traveler might do, I followed the crowd. I did make it to the center of Bruges. On my way, I stopped and had a cup of very, very good hot chocolate. The chalkboard outside boasted it was the best in Bruges because it was made with real chocolate. It was rather good, I have to say. It gave me a chance to get my bearings and get out of the now heavy rain shower. I stopped in the store next door to purchase a scarf because I left mine on the couch in Paris. Oops. It was a pretty scarf - a summer weight, though. However, it worked and kept me warm.
I made my way to the TI office and that's where the World Heritage Walk started. I set off (in the rain) and saw the most amazing buildings. I got to the Markt Square and was properly awed. The intensity of the rain was decreasing so I was able to have my picture taken in the square. It was beautiful.
By now, though, I was starving. I was getting grumpy and my head started to ache. There were too many choices in the square so I chose to eat at De Carre. I had a fried chicken filet and fries. The fried chicken filet turned out to be grilled, not fried. All in all, very good and it filled me up. No more headache!
I asked the waitress where the best place to buy chocolate. She told me to go down the street next to the cafe and head left and I would see it. So, I did. She led me to Dumon Chocolatier. It's a tiny store, but the chocolates were amazing. It's a family run business. I purchased 2 boxes of dark chocolate only. The woman helping me was a bit flummoxed at the fact that I wanted only dark chocolate.
While I was there, a group of tourists came in and one proceeded to reach over the counter to grab some samples. One of the women promptly asked him what he was doing. He said that he wanted a sample. The other woman (the one helping me) said that they would present the plate to him, but that he couldn't simply help himself. Wow.
I found out that this chocolatier is recommended by Rick Steves. I even saw his family's annual Christmas card taped to the wall. Even with that recommendation, the store wasn't crowded at that time. I did return later in the day and it was very crowded.
Continued my walk and made it to Burg Square. Again, I was in awe. The buildings were amazing. For some reason, at the time I was there, it wasn't overrun with tourists. Hmm. They were still at Markt Square. While visiting City Hall and the Museum, another tourist irked me. There are signs that clearly state no photos allowed. They had the written language as well as a visual. Well, this one tourist was taking photos! No one else in the room was doing it! I wanted to take one of the signs and politely show it to her. Grrrr.
One of my tasks while in Bruges was to find a calendar for my co-worker. I asked and was shown a calendar that consisted of blocks that numbers on them that you changed as the day passed. Not what I was looking for. I did find a 2010 calendar in a bookstore. Yay!
I continued my walk and wanted to go to where the Almshouses were located, but was not successful. I think the foot path that is in the guide book was blocked my construction going on at the church where it was supposed to be. I went down different avenues searching but failed. Oh well. By this time, I was getting tired. I switched walking tours and searched for the Little Bruges Bear. I found it and after that, I was done. I passed by the Frites museum.
The rain had started back up and I found shelter in a salon du the. I had a lovely cup of cafe and a wonderful dessert called Le Soleil. It was raspberries and cream. Yummy. I had to head back to the train station for my 6:05 p.m. train.
Now, I couldn't recall what streets I took to get into town so getting out was going to be fun! And it was. The rain, thankfully, had stopped. I walked away from the city center and nothing looked familiar. I did, however, see the paved path (or bike path as I like to call it) that I noticed on my way in. Hmm. I decided to take this and knew it would lead me to the station. It was a lovely path that I practically ran down to get to the station.
I made it with about 5 minutes to spare. I have to say that the train station in Bruges is quite chaotic. When I got to the right track, a train was there. People already on board were motioning to their friends to get on. I was freaking out because I thought it was my train. It was not. What sanity I had left me (and is probably on the "bike path") and my adrenaline took over.
The train for Brussels left and a minute later, the train to Paris pulled in. We loaded in 4 minutes and the train left at its scheduled time. Amazing. I did look out the window and saw people trying to catch it and they weren't able to do so.
I fell asleep on the way into Paris, but not for the entire trip. I got on the #4 at Gare du Nord and headed home. Again, it was getting close to curfew. I was getting hungry (it was 9:00 p.m.) and decided to stop at the Sushi restaurant across the street from the apartment building. I had a fried chicken roll. And this time, the chicken wss fried as adjective suggests. I made it up the 5 flights of stairs and crashed.
Day 4: Sunday in Paris (my last full day)
I awoke before the alarm and got ready. Even though I had a "night curfew," I wasn't sure if I had a "morning curfew." After all, it was Saturday. I got ready and headed out to the Metro and Gare du Nord. I didn't eat breakfast. Side note: for some reason or another, I did not eat breakfast until my last day in Paris. Go figure.
I made it to Gare du Nord and walked through the maze that would take me to the train station. I had forgotten how long the walk is from the Metro stop to the actual train station. I was cutting things a bit close as far as time went.
I walked past Paul's in the train station and saw only one person manning both the counter and the register so I passed. Found the train and the correct track and got on board. Again, still haven't eaten but also still full after last night's dinner.
I fell asleep on my way to Bruges. The train stopped in Brussels and my seat mate left. The skies were still cloudy. Note: the train staff checked our tickets when we left Paris and again when we left Brussels. Arrived at Bruges at the train station and promptly went to the Tourist Office to get a map. I wound up purchasing a guide book that had walking tours, etc. for 2€.
I then made my way out into Bruges. Had I been smart, I would have taken the bus to the center, but no, I decided to walk. I had no idea where I was going so I did as any good traveler might do, I followed the crowd. I did make it to the center of Bruges. On my way, I stopped and had a cup of very, very good hot chocolate. The chalkboard outside boasted it was the best in Bruges because it was made with real chocolate. It was rather good, I have to say. It gave me a chance to get my bearings and get out of the now heavy rain shower. I stopped in the store next door to purchase a scarf because I left mine on the couch in Paris. Oops. It was a pretty scarf - a summer weight, though. However, it worked and kept me warm.
I made my way to the TI office and that's where the World Heritage Walk started. I set off (in the rain) and saw the most amazing buildings. I got to the Markt Square and was properly awed. The intensity of the rain was decreasing so I was able to have my picture taken in the square. It was beautiful.
By now, though, I was starving. I was getting grumpy and my head started to ache. There were too many choices in the square so I chose to eat at De Carre. I had a fried chicken filet and fries. The fried chicken filet turned out to be grilled, not fried. All in all, very good and it filled me up. No more headache!
I asked the waitress where the best place to buy chocolate. She told me to go down the street next to the cafe and head left and I would see it. So, I did. She led me to Dumon Chocolatier. It's a tiny store, but the chocolates were amazing. It's a family run business. I purchased 2 boxes of dark chocolate only. The woman helping me was a bit flummoxed at the fact that I wanted only dark chocolate.
While I was there, a group of tourists came in and one proceeded to reach over the counter to grab some samples. One of the women promptly asked him what he was doing. He said that he wanted a sample. The other woman (the one helping me) said that they would present the plate to him, but that he couldn't simply help himself. Wow.
I found out that this chocolatier is recommended by Rick Steves. I even saw his family's annual Christmas card taped to the wall. Even with that recommendation, the store wasn't crowded at that time. I did return later in the day and it was very crowded.
Continued my walk and made it to Burg Square. Again, I was in awe. The buildings were amazing. For some reason, at the time I was there, it wasn't overrun with tourists. Hmm. They were still at Markt Square. While visiting City Hall and the Museum, another tourist irked me. There are signs that clearly state no photos allowed. They had the written language as well as a visual. Well, this one tourist was taking photos! No one else in the room was doing it! I wanted to take one of the signs and politely show it to her. Grrrr.
One of my tasks while in Bruges was to find a calendar for my co-worker. I asked and was shown a calendar that consisted of blocks that numbers on them that you changed as the day passed. Not what I was looking for. I did find a 2010 calendar in a bookstore. Yay!
I continued my walk and wanted to go to where the Almshouses were located, but was not successful. I think the foot path that is in the guide book was blocked my construction going on at the church where it was supposed to be. I went down different avenues searching but failed. Oh well. By this time, I was getting tired. I switched walking tours and searched for the Little Bruges Bear. I found it and after that, I was done. I passed by the Frites museum.
The rain had started back up and I found shelter in a salon du the. I had a lovely cup of cafe and a wonderful dessert called Le Soleil. It was raspberries and cream. Yummy. I had to head back to the train station for my 6:05 p.m. train.
Now, I couldn't recall what streets I took to get into town so getting out was going to be fun! And it was. The rain, thankfully, had stopped. I walked away from the city center and nothing looked familiar. I did, however, see the paved path (or bike path as I like to call it) that I noticed on my way in. Hmm. I decided to take this and knew it would lead me to the station. It was a lovely path that I practically ran down to get to the station.
I made it with about 5 minutes to spare. I have to say that the train station in Bruges is quite chaotic. When I got to the right track, a train was there. People already on board were motioning to their friends to get on. I was freaking out because I thought it was my train. It was not. What sanity I had left me (and is probably on the "bike path") and my adrenaline took over.
The train for Brussels left and a minute later, the train to Paris pulled in. We loaded in 4 minutes and the train left at its scheduled time. Amazing. I did look out the window and saw people trying to catch it and they weren't able to do so.
I fell asleep on the way into Paris, but not for the entire trip. I got on the #4 at Gare du Nord and headed home. Again, it was getting close to curfew. I was getting hungry (it was 9:00 p.m.) and decided to stop at the Sushi restaurant across the street from the apartment building. I had a fried chicken roll. And this time, the chicken wss fried as adjective suggests. I made it up the 5 flights of stairs and crashed.
Day 4: Sunday in Paris (my last full day)
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May 22nd, 2009 | 05:16 PM
#8
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 294
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I didn't realize how long this trip report was going to be! Sorry about that.
Day 4
It was my last full day in Paris. I awoke to rain hitting the window above my bed. Hmm. Should I stay in and sleep or try to go to church? I dilly-dallied and got up. I showered and left the apartment. I rode the Metro to the Invalides stop and tried to find the church. I found it and I was 15 minutes late! Oh well.
I left and started to walk along the Quai d'Orsay. It was cloudy, but no rain. I was happy. I'm in Paris.
I walked to La Tour Eiffel and just marveled. There was already a line to go up. The hawkers were hawking their wares. I stared up at the Tower and turned around. I walked along the Seine humming a tune (or was it my iPod?). It was great just to walk. Since I was near the Musee d'Orsay, I headed that way. I was silly to think that on a Sunday, with rainy skies that the museum wouldn't be crowded. Silly me! The line was huge. I just laughed.
I walked towards St. Germain again. I was in search for Pierre Hermé. Instead of finding it, I stumbled upon the Ladurée on Rue Bonaparte. I ate lunch; however, I ordered something different. The sandwich Champs-Elysées - mostly a vegetarian sandwich, but very good. Their fries were very cute. I walked across Blvd. St. Germain to the other side of Rue Bonaparte. I found Pierre Hermé. It's a very small store. It's also across from Hotel Bonaparte. I purchased chocolate and didn't even think about their macarons. Oh well.
I was tired and decided to take a nap. And that's what I did. It was nice. When I awoke, the rain had stopped and the sun was setting. Yay! I was hungry. I made my way to the Montparnasse area and ate at Hippopotamus Grill. Yes, it was touristy, but there were locals and tourists alike. The atmosphere was lively! I loved it. There were a lot of people out and about on a Sunday night. Of course, there are 2 movie theatres in the area so that might explain the crowds.
Returned to the apartment, took a few pictures of the Eiffel Tower as the sun was setting, and started to pack. I still needed to get gifts for my family. There was only 1 place I wanted to go - Au Printemps.
Next: Shopping the AM and then getting on a jet plane.
Day 4
It was my last full day in Paris. I awoke to rain hitting the window above my bed. Hmm. Should I stay in and sleep or try to go to church? I dilly-dallied and got up. I showered and left the apartment. I rode the Metro to the Invalides stop and tried to find the church. I found it and I was 15 minutes late! Oh well.
I left and started to walk along the Quai d'Orsay. It was cloudy, but no rain. I was happy. I'm in Paris.
I walked to La Tour Eiffel and just marveled. There was already a line to go up. The hawkers were hawking their wares. I stared up at the Tower and turned around. I walked along the Seine humming a tune (or was it my iPod?). It was great just to walk. Since I was near the Musee d'Orsay, I headed that way. I was silly to think that on a Sunday, with rainy skies that the museum wouldn't be crowded. Silly me!
The line was huge. I just laughed. I walked towards St. Germain again. I was in search for Pierre Hermé. Instead of finding it, I stumbled upon the Ladurée on Rue Bonaparte. I ate lunch; however, I ordered something different. The sandwich Champs-Elysées - mostly a vegetarian sandwich, but very good. Their fries were very cute. I walked across Blvd. St. Germain to the other side of Rue Bonaparte. I found Pierre Hermé. It's a very small store. It's also across from Hotel Bonaparte. I purchased chocolate and didn't even think about their macarons. Oh well.
I was tired and decided to take a nap. And that's what I did. It was nice. When I awoke, the rain had stopped and the sun was setting. Yay! I was hungry. I made my way to the Montparnasse area and ate at Hippopotamus Grill. Yes, it was touristy, but there were locals and tourists alike. The atmosphere was lively! I loved it. There were a lot of people out and about on a Sunday night. Of course, there are 2 movie theatres in the area so that might explain the crowds.
Returned to the apartment, took a few pictures of the Eiffel Tower as the sun was setting, and started to pack. I still needed to get gifts for my family. There was only 1 place I wanted to go - Au Printemps.
Next: Shopping the AM and then getting on a jet plane.
May 22nd, 2009 | 05:25 PM
#9
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Day 5: last morning in Paris
I got up early and finished packing. I was on a tight time schedule so I was in a bit of a rush to do things. I left the apartment and got to Au Printemps. I found the Longchamps key chains and found something for my dad. Returned to the apartment (a bit earlier than I had budgeted) and finished packing. The landlord called me the night before and told me that she would not be able to meet me at 12:30 to take the key. I followed her instructions re: the key and left the apartment. Walked down the 5 flights of stairs for the last time.
Got on the Metro and headed to the RER. Arrived at CDG and checked in. One of the staff took one look at my face and asked me if I was tired. I said yes. And I was. Went through security (there was no one in line) and decided to get a deep tissue neck massage. It was wonderful.
The flight home was uneventful. I would have had the whole row to myself, but one of the flight attendants asked the man in front of me if he wanted to sit on my row. A bit more space for him as well as for those in the other row.
Arrived at JFK and breezed through immigration and customs. Picked up my bag and called my friend to pick me up.
My lovely, but brief trip to Paris was over. It was a great way to celebrate my birthday!
Any questions, just ask.
TR
I got up early and finished packing. I was on a tight time schedule so I was in a bit of a rush to do things. I left the apartment and got to Au Printemps. I found the Longchamps key chains and found something for my dad. Returned to the apartment (a bit earlier than I had budgeted) and finished packing. The landlord called me the night before and told me that she would not be able to meet me at 12:30 to take the key. I followed her instructions re: the key and left the apartment. Walked down the 5 flights of stairs for the last time.
Got on the Metro and headed to the RER. Arrived at CDG and checked in. One of the staff took one look at my face and asked me if I was tired. I said yes. And I was. Went through security (there was no one in line) and decided to get a deep tissue neck massage. It was wonderful.
The flight home was uneventful. I would have had the whole row to myself, but one of the flight attendants asked the man in front of me if he wanted to sit on my row. A bit more space for him as well as for those in the other row.
Arrived at JFK and breezed through immigration and customs. Picked up my bag and called my friend to pick me up.
My lovely, but brief trip to Paris was over. It was a great way to celebrate my birthday!
Any questions, just ask.
TR
May 26th, 2009 | 02:29 PM
#12
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,047
Likes: 0
Hi TravelRibbon - really enjoyed your trip report. Happy belated birthday! We also had the Saint Honoré Rose Framboise dessert at Laduree last time we ate there. Too bad the weather didn't cooperate, but it sounds like you still enjoyed your trip with all that rain! Thanks for posting.
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