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The Charm of Spring...April in Paris, at last

The Charm of Spring...April in Paris, at last

Old Apr 21st, 2018, 06:21 AM
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The Charm of Spring...April in Paris, at last

Well, you probably know it wasn’t our first trip to Paris. It has been almost a year and a half since our last trip. It was our first visit in Spring and there were 3 things we wanted to do:
  1. Giverny, at long last (not open at Christmas time)
  2. A return visit to Reims with a visit to Billecart-Salmon
  3. Vaux le Vicomte.

Were there other things we wanted to do? Yeah. Were we on a mission? Not really. We had few dinner reservations on this trip but that’s how we wanted it. And, honestly, it was all I had time for (my job is insane).


We mostly wanted to do a few new things, revisit some old things and just be back in Paris. The weather was a question. Would it be cold and rainy? Warm? Packing seemed more challenging for this time of year than at Christmas. Which jackets and coats to take? Would we be freezing to death or unpeeling layers because we were hot? We did take a few extra things this year and a bit more luggage (and we rolled the dice and checked it).


Day 1 arrival - The Walking Dead (Thursday, April 5)


The flight over was not the best. Delta Comfort is OK but the seats don’t recline much and we both were uncomfortable. Mine was made worse by coming with the only monitor that didn’t work. Ugh. And there was a child that cried the whole way (and I mean the whole way) – I could still hear her with noise cancelling headphones on my head. I dream of an all adult airline but I digress. Also, Chaz was sick and so was half the plane. The chances of getting outta there without picking up a virus was minimal. I got a little sleep. Chaz did not.

We got there and had access to the Access One line and got through passport control quickly. Our bags showed up quickly and we met our driver.

The ride into Paris was uneventful. This year, we could not get into our apartment until mid-afternoon. We were dropped off down the street from the Paris Perfect office with our bags (this is the very down side of arriving at 5:40am!)

We didn’t feel like we could take up room inside with our bags and had about an hour to wait for the office to open so we could drop off our bags.

It was chilly but we sat outside and had a café crème and pain au chocolat (which truly was fresh and perfect). Chaz had been sick and I was getting sick. My back was sore, Chaz’s knee is hurt and we looked like we felt. (Wasn’t there an Erma Bombeck book about if you look like your passport photo it’s time to go home? What if you look way worse and you just got there?)

This would be the time we brought more luggage than usual. Ugh.
We paid and headed to the apartment office to drop off the bags. We were hoping that we would get in the apartment before noon but it wasn’t to be.

So, we went to kill some time in Paris. We didn’t really have a good plan but it’s hard to plan when you don’t know when they will call to check you in. The first stop was to a pharmacy for something to try help Chaz with the hacking cough. Mission accomplished. French pharmacies are always great experiences. Staff is helpful and knowledgeable. It’s kind of sad when your first purchase in Paris is cough drops, isn’t it?

Did I mention that it was cold, windy and threatening to rain?

Since I didn’t really eat anything on the plane, I was hungry again. I rationalized that a single pain au chocolat could not really be expected to be a full breakfast. A second breakfast worked for Chaz as it fits in with his love of Lord of the Rings (don’t Hobbits have second breakfast?).

We found ourselves by Le Recrutement on Blvd La Tour Maubourg and it was so perfectly warm inside. I think I just had a tartine and hot chocolate. We were happy to be in Paris and happy to be inside where it was warm.

Since we knew we had some time to kill but didn’t want to be too far away we went to Le Bon Marche to browse. I couldn’t even be bothered to try on shoes, I was so tired (and also felt gross from the airplane). But the shoe department there is amazing and complete with a fantasy Christian Louboutin center section.


We finally ended up at the truffle bar at Le Bon Marche and had a glass of Champagne. Not a bad way to spend a little time but here is where it’s truly crazy. The best purchase of the entire trip according to Chaz was purchased at Le Bon Marche for less than the 10 euros. Who would have thought that Le Bon Marche would have Fishermen’s Friend throat lozenges? We can quit and go home because the best thing in Paris is throat lozenges from America. ;-) Two for two on purchases for sore throat and cough. When I think of wonderful things from my childhood it’s the popsicle man or my grandmother’s chocolate pie. Chaz has wonderful memories of really strong cough drops which brought back memories of Vick’s to me (menthol and eucalyptus).

Tired of wandering and just plain tired, we finally decided to go back to the office and hope that by showing up we would get in the apartment sooner. We waited about 15 minutes and they gave us the go ahead. An Uber ride and 15 minutes later we were walking into the apartment. This was our second stay in this apartment on a side street off Boulevard Saint Germain. We love the location and more cool restaurants and shops have opened at the other end of the street. The rue du Bac and St Germain des Pres Metro stations are both close, so we have easy access to get around.

I ran to the Monoprix around the corner for bottled water, coke light and a few little butter cookies for the apartment. OK, that’s not really true – we were gonna need a lot more Kleenex (to go with the cough drops)!


We got settled and cleaned up to lose the zombie look we had working all day. Now, the vacation can officially start. First, our annual visit to St Sulpice to remember a friend. I love this church and it always makes me sad to see that it is need of many repairs. I haven’t seen the fountains run out front in a few years. Times are hard for the church, I guess.


We headed to Freddy’s wine bar on Rue de Seine. We like the atmosphere and the selection of small plates there. We sampled some prosciutto sanglier with Montcuit Champagne and olives, to start. Next, onglet de beouf with chimichurri & their fish no chips (fried fish with a black mayo sauce). Then, a leak terrine and a grilled echine de cochon that was out of this world. We finished with chocolate mousse and that was terrific (when it chocolate mousse not terrific?).

A stroll back to our apartment to turn in for the night. And, as I went to bed I could feel the cold really coming on.

Next up – Luxury and Luxembourg Gardens...more later.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 06:39 AM
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Gracious, denisea, sorry the trip over was awful and that your DH wasn't feeling well. I must share that I mentally cussed at the person who wrote "April in Paris" when I was there and it was cold and actually snowed.

Looking forward to 'traveling' with you!
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 07:01 AM
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So glad you are writing up your trip report now as I always enjoy reading about your adventures. We will be in Paris this June, and I have the mousse bar at Chocolat Chapon on my map thanks to one of your previous reports.
Hope the colds ended quickly.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 07:43 AM
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Can you please give the link to your apartment? I look forward to reading more. Thanks.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by denisea
Who would have thought that Le Bon Marche would have Fishermen’s Friend throat lozenges? We can quit and go home because the best thing in Paris is throat lozenges from America. ;-)
What on earth gave you the idea that Fisherman's Friend is an American brand?
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 08:45 AM
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Sorry—what I meant was something we can get and have been getting in America. All apologies, kerouac.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 09:22 AM
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We got lucky on the weather, TDudette as you will find out as we go. I did read somewhere once that April in Paris was actually written about May but April sounded better in the song.

@Jennifer - there is now a Chocolat Chapon near St Sulpice. @Marija - https://www.parisperfect.com/apartme...s/maranges.php
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 10:47 AM
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Any trip report that makes me hungry is a good one and yours does. Looking forward to more food and drink and hoping the hacking, the bad knee, and the sore back improved.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 01:39 PM
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Thanks for the report, I always enjoy reading about your trips.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 01:41 PM
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I love your reports. We were freaking because of the flu in Feb. I even took a mask for the plane if people were hacking. The first trip in a while no one got sick. I washed my gloves everyday, took a couple pairs of the thin ones. You can't help touching railings and poles on the metro. Hope it was a short illness.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 02:06 PM
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Hi Denisea, eager to read about your "April in Paris" experience, hoping that you both felt better after your meds. Curious if Paris has beautiful flowers planted all over the center, something we remember from our visit 2012. Can't wait to read future installments!
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tomarkot
Hi Denisea, eager to read about your "April in Paris" experience, hoping that you both felt better after your meds. Curious if Paris has beautiful flowers planted all over the center, something we remember from our visit 2012. Can't wait to read future installments!
Yes, it does; The daffodils are finished but the tulips and pansies are in full glory. Not just in the center, I may add, but I presume you ask because you only plan to see the center.
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Old Apr 21st, 2018, 09:02 PM
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Oh, I'm so excited! A denisea TR! Perfect timing! I'm headed over this week for a (way too quick) trip and after deciding to go realized I would be seeing April in Paris. (I hear the song every time I think/say that!)

What a treat to have your TR to read before I go!

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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 05:15 AM
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Hey tomarkot ---we saw a lot of gorgeous flowers and some trees were flowering but not all. Lots of forsythia in bloom. I don't quite recall which flowers were in bloom in Paris but

A little park in the 6th - Voltaire


Tulips in Luxembourg Gardens


Parc Monceau


Gorgeous-Spring at Notre Dame
daffodils were still in bloom at Giverny (as well as tulips, poppies and pansies).
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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 05:59 AM
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Day 2 – Under Chanel’s spell (Friday, April 6)


I woke up with that cold courtesy of Chaz or the 100 people on the flight over who were hacking away during the flight. Nothing to be done about it. So, I loaded up on Kleenex. I was moving slow but wanted to try not to look awful when going to visit Mademoiselle.

We have a tradition. On our first day we visit Chanel at 31 rue Cambon. We also start at Le Bonaparte which is around the corner from the apartment. And, we sleep later than we mean to. Paris is the only place in the world that we aren’t up before 7 am.

I was moving slow and sent Chaz ahead to Le Bonaparte to get a head start on his espresso requirements. One favorite of mine is stepping outside onto the street every day in Paris. I am always looking forward to the day and my breakfast at Le Bonaparte. I think I finally got to Le Bonaparte around 11am. I got my favorite breakfast with a pain au chocolat, a tartine with butter and yogurt and fresh OJ. I never get orange juice anywhere but Paris. With cold, I definitely needed it. I love the yogurt in France and we have nothing like it in the US. (There is one brand that does a French style yogurt but I have not seen a plain, unflavored version. The flavored versions have too much sugar, like most of our food here). Chaz got a whole lotta espresso and a pain au chocolat. We took our time and then crossed the street to get to the St Germain des Pres Metro station and headed to the Madeleine Metro station and then on to Chanel. Very nice weather and so far, we brought the right coats.


Spring had sprung at Chanel. Lots of pastels and color in the boutique. The purse counters were packed with girls checking them all out. I have never been a huge fan of Chanel purses, so at least that isn’t a big temptation for me. I headed for the jewelry. I am still wanting a great pair of Chanel hoop earrings (that they don’t make any more). We were assigned a sales person and we started looking at all the great earrings they do have. Lots of items with varying shades of blue. I started to look at some of the items with clear resin rather than blue. It’s always hard to decide. I do have to get larger earrings to actually show up with all my hair.

I spent too much time and too much money but it was fun (as always-maybe this is why they serve Champagne) and I left with a modern cuff bracelet (matte silver, interlocking Cs), amazing clear chandelier earrings and tons of makeup. I am a sucker for a travel palette. I also had to chug water with my Champs as the trip over and the cold had me seriously dehydrated. The boutique was full of gorgeous Spring fashions and we did a few laps admiring what I can’t afford and/or would only look good on someone a foot taller than I am. Despite the lure of the sunglasses, I decided to end my spending spree while I can still pay my mortgage.

Lunch was at Café Varenne. I have to say on this trip I did a good job at remembering where places are and not getting lost. The sun was out and Rose outside was the perfect way to start a late lunch. We got a table outside (a premium for weather like this but it was late for lunch). We love the food at Café Varenne and today was no exception. Chaz had the steak tartare and I got my old standby, the warm goat cheese salad that is just heaven to me. From our last trip, we now know that Chapon is just down the way from Café Varenne and perfect for dessert. Chocolate mousse again and the version with chocolate from Equador is sheer perfection. Not sure if anything can be better…walking down the street in Paris, in the sun with some chocolate mousse. Perfect.

We went back to the apartment to drop off Coco’s friends, clean up and then head out for apero and dinner. The weather was so nice and we decided to head to Luxembourg Gardens, along with the rest of Paris. We enjoyed seeing the gardens with spring flowers and the Medici fountain in the sun. Nice way to spend a little time and work off a bite or two of that mousse. Everyone was out and that meant they had their doggies with them, too. I love Paris because not only is the people watching great but so is the puppy watching! It does make us miss our two Shelties at home but I do love watching pups strut happily around Paris. Lots of Jack Russel terriers in Paris and I love them!

One theme of the trip was watching people take selfies or and/or pose for pictures to post on their social media accounts. That may have been the best free entertainment of our trip. The Champs du Mars yesterday was full of tourists trying to get the perfect shot that says, “having a fabulous time in Paris ”while “balancing” the Eiffel Tower on their hand. Girls would make their friends take a million “candid” shots, review them for posting worthiness and then do it all over again. Lots of that in Luxembourg Gardens, as well. We found it wildly entertaining.

From there, we headed over to the Odeon area. I was looking for a cocktail bar I heard about and still can’t tell if it was closed for good or just not open yet. So, plan B. We ended up at Les Editeurs outside for apero. Now, the downside of Paris for me has always been the smoking. I don’t like to be around cigarette smoke at all (impossible in Paris and I do accept that). My nose runs, it gets in my hair and since we both were sick it was harder to take this trip. Also, a Spring Friday night in good weather brings out everyone including the groups of girls who have got to smoke. (I do find it sad to still see worldwide so many young people smoking). Unfortunately, it was a one girl smoking at a time situation. One would finish, another would light up. Even the table of French behind them were annoyed, but it’s Paris. The weather really was pleasant and I was wishing I didn’t have the stupid cold.

We didn’t have a plan for dinner and we were both a bit tired and run down. We ended up at a little Italian place across the street from the apartment for dinner. We weren’t that hungry and Chaz spied a pizza that looked good to him. We sat outside on the street. I got some pasta and Chaz got the pizza with prosciutto, mushrooms and a fried egg. Unfortunately, there was no getting away from the ciggys. A pair of women came out of the restaurant to smoke, right next to us. Even someone from the apartment above came out to smoke but at least walked across the street to do so. But not these women. I had hoped they would just have one but it was one after another and they stayed even after their wine was gone. Oh well. We decided to make an early night of it as we were both feeling tired and we were running out of Kleenex, so it was time to walk across the street and hit the hay. Despite the cold, it was a good first full day in Paris.

Next up: French Fromage & Friends
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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 07:10 AM
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Denisea, beautiful photos!!! Following along with your Paris experience makes us wish we were there. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 07:44 AM
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"The purse counters were packed with girls checking them all out." That sounds like a typical day at Chanel. We were in Paris for week around Valentine's Day in 2016 and my husband and I went into the Chanel store on Avenue Montaigne, his first visit to this particular brand. I admired a bag and he asked if that's what I wanted for a Valentine's Day present. I looked at him and said, ummm, you do realise this bag costs seven thousand euros, right? He paled, paused and said, well do you really want it? I laughed and said, in the abstract, sure, but in the real world, nope. We wandered farther down the avenue and I ended up with a much less expensive Gucci bag, followed by tea in the Plaza Athenee's pretty salon. All good.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 08:06 AM
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Hello Denise:

I am looking forward to reading another 'Denise and Chaz do Paris' trip report, as I am heading there in May for long weekend.

Re Chanel: Like you, the handbags would never work for me, although I do have a few pair of shoes and some costume jewellery. I need big 'bucket handbags' that take punishment and can carry a laptop. A sister has about 20/30 of them - she won't admit to the number! Least anyone think this is useless extravagance, fact is that a Chanel handbag is an investment, and worth more years after purchase than the purchase price, and an heirloom.

Please keep going - I really enjoy your reports.

Best regards ... Ger
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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 08:54 AM
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Weisser Tee - sounds like that ended quite well. O'Reilly - I wouldn't say that I have no designer bags, but have never found a Chanel bag that I really love (also not in love the Birkin). I know what you mean about needed something that holds more (esp laptop). I have used the Longchamp tote I bought on my last trip to death. I definitely agree that many of these items are an investment if you take care of them. I do have a ton of shoes and have enjoyed the Chanel bijoux that I have begun collecting over the past few years. The fantasy item I really want is a great Chanel jacket. I let one get away at Chanel in Palm Beach several years ago. I am always on the look out for the perfect jacket (black) and I would pull the trigger on that if it crosses my path.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2018, 09:30 AM
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Really enjoying this, loved the flower photos, we really don’t have trad spring flowers in Florida.
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