Our Spain Adventure -- Cordoba, Seville, Granada and Barcelona! (Part One)
Apr 28th, 2014, 11:47 AM
#81
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kandn -- it was such a fun time!
Each course was small, just a few bites of this and a few bites of that.....but after 17 courses of little servings, we were completely sated.
What we enjoyed the most was the atmosphere, there's great energy in that olive oil shop -- and it's all because of Francisco. His personality, his charm and the way he presented each course was the secret ingredient to a perfect evening.
Each course was small, just a few bites of this and a few bites of that.....but after 17 courses of little servings, we were completely sated.
What we enjoyed the most was the atmosphere, there's great energy in that olive oil shop -- and it's all because of Francisco. His personality, his charm and the way he presented each course was the secret ingredient to a perfect evening.
Apr 28th, 2014, 01:05 PM
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MyriamC,
Arte y Sabores de Córdoba looks and sounds like an excellent idea, thanks for making me aware of this! This is the atmosphere and spirit of a local peña/flamenco club:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4gMn1fqRf4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whP0qSXAy8s
Arte y Sabores de Córdoba looks and sounds like an excellent idea, thanks for making me aware of this! This is the atmosphere and spirit of a local peña/flamenco club:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4gMn1fqRf4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whP0qSXAy8s
Apr 30th, 2014, 05:12 AM
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On our last day in Granada, we awoke to a morning filled with sunshine.
We had already checked off the items on our list of things to see and do, so we consulted with our Rick Steves guide to plan our day. We decided to visit the monastery and Basilica de San Juan de Dios, both of which were within easy walking distance from our hotel.
The Monasterio de San Jeronimo, although the church was beautiful.....was also really dark. There was very little lighting and even though it was relatively bright outside, we found the church to lack natural light and that took away from the grandeur of the altar and paintings in my opinion.
The cloister was quite nice, and it was interesting to read the various stones underneath our feet of hundreds of monks who are buried there.
It was very serene and an interesting place to see. Would have enjoyed it more if there was better lighting.
A few blocks away is the Basilica de San Juan de Dios. We got about 30 minutes before they closed for lunch, but we were allowed to stay there as long as we liked.
The Basilica is managed by an elderly couple and their daughter (??)....it is a beautifully preserved church and we were given the privilege of going up and behind the altar where the remains of San Juan de Dios are contained within a silver urn.
This was one of the most stunning baroque churches we visited, filled with paintings and sculptures. The tour behind the altar was truly remarkable, and the couple running the tourist desk were just so charming and amiable. I highly recommend you spend some time here, it remains one of the highlights of our visit to Spain.
We made our way back towards Plaza Nueva, looking for a place to have lunch. We picked a random restaurant -- Cafe Lisboa -- because it had outdoor seating and we thought it would be a great people-watching spot.
It WAS a great people watching spot, right next to Plaza Nueva, but....the food was mediocre. They were running a lunch special (as do most restaurants in Spain) and it was just OK.....they didn't have available the advertised dessert and we were forced to choose from their lousy selections. And we had to pay cash -- while I don't mind paying cash, this is the second time in Spain that credit cards were not accepted and both times the restaurant was mediocre at best. Maybe there's a connection...
We found ourselves with nothing really to do for the rest of the afternoon. We walked around the Realejo, bought some souvenirs, made our way down to Calle Navas, etc....
Our last evening in Granada we had a choice to either go see the Alhambra at night or go to a flamenco show. We decided to go to a flamenco show (yes, I am obsessed with flamenco). Our hotel concierge recommended La Rocio Flamenco Cave. He showed us the brochure which featured pictures of Michelle Obama with her quotes about how great this place was. So we booked it.
A bus was picking us up to take us up to Sacramonte for the show, so we stopped at our favorite Olivers for tapas and drinks beforehand.
The bus picked us up on time and we made our way up to Sacramonte.
After seeing electrifying flamenco performances in Cordoba and Seville, we were really looking forward to an authentic flamenco show performed by gypsies in their caves. But, we were really disappointed. The dances were short and there was no real passion, nothing like the previous performances we had attended. It was just a touristy attraction whose only appeal was that it took place in a cave. That part was awesome to experience. But the show was terrible.....what was Michelle Obama thinking???
The nice part of our reservation is that it included a night walking tour through the Albaycin, including a stop at Mirador San Nicolas. The view at night is simply breathtaking! Make a point of visiting here both during the day and at night!
We were dropped off at our hotel, made our way up to the Fred Flintstone bed of rocks suite, and packed up, we were ready for Barcelona!
I'd like to add that the Rick Steves book didn't really offer too much information about Granada, other than an extensive chapter on the Alhambra. Maybe we missed a lot of things to see and do, but I really think 3 nights in Granada is more than enough to satisfy.
Next up.....Barcelona!
We had already checked off the items on our list of things to see and do, so we consulted with our Rick Steves guide to plan our day. We decided to visit the monastery and Basilica de San Juan de Dios, both of which were within easy walking distance from our hotel.
The Monasterio de San Jeronimo, although the church was beautiful.....was also really dark. There was very little lighting and even though it was relatively bright outside, we found the church to lack natural light and that took away from the grandeur of the altar and paintings in my opinion.
The cloister was quite nice, and it was interesting to read the various stones underneath our feet of hundreds of monks who are buried there.
It was very serene and an interesting place to see. Would have enjoyed it more if there was better lighting.
A few blocks away is the Basilica de San Juan de Dios. We got about 30 minutes before they closed for lunch, but we were allowed to stay there as long as we liked.
The Basilica is managed by an elderly couple and their daughter (??)....it is a beautifully preserved church and we were given the privilege of going up and behind the altar where the remains of San Juan de Dios are contained within a silver urn.
This was one of the most stunning baroque churches we visited, filled with paintings and sculptures. The tour behind the altar was truly remarkable, and the couple running the tourist desk were just so charming and amiable. I highly recommend you spend some time here, it remains one of the highlights of our visit to Spain.
We made our way back towards Plaza Nueva, looking for a place to have lunch. We picked a random restaurant -- Cafe Lisboa -- because it had outdoor seating and we thought it would be a great people-watching spot.
It WAS a great people watching spot, right next to Plaza Nueva, but....the food was mediocre. They were running a lunch special (as do most restaurants in Spain) and it was just OK.....they didn't have available the advertised dessert and we were forced to choose from their lousy selections. And we had to pay cash -- while I don't mind paying cash, this is the second time in Spain that credit cards were not accepted and both times the restaurant was mediocre at best. Maybe there's a connection...
We found ourselves with nothing really to do for the rest of the afternoon. We walked around the Realejo, bought some souvenirs, made our way down to Calle Navas, etc....
Our last evening in Granada we had a choice to either go see the Alhambra at night or go to a flamenco show. We decided to go to a flamenco show (yes, I am obsessed with flamenco). Our hotel concierge recommended La Rocio Flamenco Cave. He showed us the brochure which featured pictures of Michelle Obama with her quotes about how great this place was. So we booked it.
A bus was picking us up to take us up to Sacramonte for the show, so we stopped at our favorite Olivers for tapas and drinks beforehand.
The bus picked us up on time and we made our way up to Sacramonte.
After seeing electrifying flamenco performances in Cordoba and Seville, we were really looking forward to an authentic flamenco show performed by gypsies in their caves. But, we were really disappointed. The dances were short and there was no real passion, nothing like the previous performances we had attended. It was just a touristy attraction whose only appeal was that it took place in a cave. That part was awesome to experience. But the show was terrible.....what was Michelle Obama thinking???
The nice part of our reservation is that it included a night walking tour through the Albaycin, including a stop at Mirador San Nicolas. The view at night is simply breathtaking! Make a point of visiting here both during the day and at night!
We were dropped off at our hotel, made our way up to the Fred Flintstone bed of rocks suite, and packed up, we were ready for Barcelona!
I'd like to add that the Rick Steves book didn't really offer too much information about Granada, other than an extensive chapter on the Alhambra. Maybe we missed a lot of things to see and do, but I really think 3 nights in Granada is more than enough to satisfy.
Next up.....Barcelona!
Apr 30th, 2014, 09:43 AM
#84
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I'm really enjoying your trip report. I have almost decided on a Spain trip for next year so I will be taking notes from your trip. I've had some fears about Spain especially Barcelona so nice to know you had a good trip.
Question on Alhambra tix: When you ordered on-line, was your credit card charged then? Or not until you picked up the tickets? Is the requirement to show the same credit card you ordered with for identification purposes? Did you pick up the tickets from a human or have to use a machine? I like to use a pre-paid debit card for these type of on-line purchases and am wondering if this is possible.
Thanks for all the good info.
Question on Alhambra tix: When you ordered on-line, was your credit card charged then? Or not until you picked up the tickets? Is the requirement to show the same credit card you ordered with for identification purposes? Did you pick up the tickets from a human or have to use a machine? I like to use a pre-paid debit card for these type of on-line purchases and am wondering if this is possible.
Thanks for all the good info.
Apr 30th, 2014, 10:20 AM
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I prepaid for the Alhambra tickets online. In fact I made most of my purchases well beforehand (Alhambra, train tickets, plane tickets, hotels and even some attractions) to limit the purchases I made in Spain. It worked out really well.
I picked up the Alhambra tickets from a bookstore near Plaza Nueva. Your hotel concierge should be able to give you directions as it is the official spot outside of the Alhambra itself for picking up the tickets.
You have to use the same credit card you used to buy the tickets online -- and it is a machine similar to an ATM machine -- you stick your credit card in and the machine reads your card information and instantly provides you with a print out of your actual tickets.
I plan on finishing up the rest of my TR later this week (Barcelona).
Nothing to fear in Barcelona, I loved it the most of all the cities we visited.
You will have a great time!
I picked up the Alhambra tickets from a bookstore near Plaza Nueva. Your hotel concierge should be able to give you directions as it is the official spot outside of the Alhambra itself for picking up the tickets.
You have to use the same credit card you used to buy the tickets online -- and it is a machine similar to an ATM machine -- you stick your credit card in and the machine reads your card information and instantly provides you with a print out of your actual tickets.
I plan on finishing up the rest of my TR later this week (Barcelona).
Nothing to fear in Barcelona, I loved it the most of all the cities we visited.
You will have a great time!
Apr 30th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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Thanks for the info on the Alhambra tix. The procedures for these things are always different and confusing. I jumped thru quite a few hoops for advance tix in Italy last year but it did turn out to be worth it. Looking forward to your Barcelona report.
Apr 30th, 2014, 06:42 PM
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Wonderful reports! Thank you for taking the time to do this! Heading to Spain in about 4 weeks. You have given lots of wonderful insight! Do you think a 9 year old boy would be entertained by the Flamenco show? If so, any particular location that seemed to have the most kid friendly atmosphere? We will be in Madrid, Cordoba, Granada, Seville and a few additional cities. THANK YOU!!!
May 1st, 2014, 02:26 AM
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>Do you think a 9 year old boy would be entertained by the Flamenco show?>
If it's the real deal, definitely yes! My brother went with his 8 and 16 years old to excellent Casa Patas in Madrid with a couple of friends the same age last year, and they all had a fantastic time. The nine year old girl was mesmerized. Casa Patas has consistently been the best tablao in Spain in recent years. Only top artists: http://www.casapatas.com/
Belén López danced that night, and here she is in Casa Patas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvHLRmL347U
If it's the real deal, definitely yes! My brother went with his 8 and 16 years old to excellent Casa Patas in Madrid with a couple of friends the same age last year, and they all had a fantastic time. The nine year old girl was mesmerized. Casa Patas has consistently been the best tablao in Spain in recent years. Only top artists: http://www.casapatas.com/
Belén López danced that night, and here she is in Casa Patas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvHLRmL347U
May 3rd, 2014, 12:55 AM
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excited_confused
Pastora Galván dances in Casa de La Memória in Sevilla May 12, 15, 18 and 20: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/
She's one of the major stars in the 18th edition of the Bienal de Flamenco in Sevilla later this year, and she's nominated to the Premio Max 2014 as best female dancer in Spain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P073sNZaJro
Pastora Galván dances in Casa de La Memória in Sevilla May 12, 15, 18 and 20: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/
She's one of the major stars in the 18th edition of the Bienal de Flamenco in Sevilla later this year, and she's nominated to the Premio Max 2014 as best female dancer in Spain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P073sNZaJro
May 6th, 2014, 11:03 AM
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Wow! Great report. And just in time for my trip to Seville, Cordoba, Malaga, and Granada.
It doesn't seem you had any issues with personal safety. If you were going alone, would you feel unsafe? After a long drought, I'm finally headed back to Europe, but this time, alone. I just don't want to worry anyone back home.
Also, in your preplanning, did you think of going to Gibraltar? I'm tempted, but unsure. I'll be there a week before I meet up with my friend in Granada.
It doesn't seem you had any issues with personal safety. If you were going alone, would you feel unsafe? After a long drought, I'm finally headed back to Europe, but this time, alone. I just don't want to worry anyone back home.
Also, in your preplanning, did you think of going to Gibraltar? I'm tempted, but unsure. I'll be there a week before I meet up with my friend in Granada.
May 6th, 2014, 02:25 PM
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I was very aware of place and time the entire trip -- but felt very safe, even in Barcelona.
As for Gibraltar, I really didn't have an interest in going there this trip -- and it didn't fit in my itinerary.
We did spend 4 nights in Granada which I thought was one day too many -- in retrospect, I would have made a stop in Ronda. I've read it's very beautiful and worth making the effort to go there.
As for Gibraltar, I really didn't have an interest in going there this trip -- and it didn't fit in my itinerary.
We did spend 4 nights in Granada which I thought was one day too many -- in retrospect, I would have made a stop in Ronda. I've read it's very beautiful and worth making the effort to go there.
May 6th, 2014, 06:06 PM
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Judy_Rosa, we leave for Barcelona on Saturday (yay!) so I hope you get to it before then! Your TR has been very informative.
Kimhe, thanks for the tip about Pastora Galván, we will be in Sevilla on the 18th so if we do not make it to a flamenco performance in Barcelona, will definitely plan for that.
Kimhe, thanks for the tip about Pastora Galván, we will be in Sevilla on the 18th so if we do not make it to a flamenco performance in Barcelona, will definitely plan for that.
May 8th, 2014, 03:40 AM
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The last leg of our trip was Barcelona.
I absolutely LOVE Barcelona!
We caught a morning flight from Granada to Barcelona -- we flew on Vueling Airlines, which is I believe the regional carrier for Iberia. The flight (one-way) only cost EUR80 -- we upgraded to include the cost of checking our bags.
You can get flights on Vueling as cheap as EUR69 if you book far enough in advance. I think Ryan Air also offers cost-effective flights, but the timing on Vueling worked out better for us.
We had a (thankfully) uneventful flight and arrived in Barcelona late morning. We could have taken a bus to the center of the city, but with our overstuffed baggage in hand, we figured it would be easier to take a cab. The cost was EUR30 from the airport to our hotel.
We stayed at Park Hotel Barcelona. From my research (and advice from this site), I knew I wanted to stay in El Born. The price was right (by Barcelona standards as hotels here are expensive) and the location was right off Paseo (or Passeig) del Born -- perfect!
The hotel itself was OK -- it appears that the lower floors of the hotel have been rehabbed, but the upper levels have not. We were given a room on the 3rd floor (not new) -- I went into the bathroom and found a tiny little bug (they call them silver fish in my part of the USA) -- so we didn't unpack but went down to the lobby to get a different room. Not a problem, and our new room was completely redone in a modern decor. Excellent.
The only downside to this hotel was that there was no business center, or any way to print out reservations or tickets to attractions. That said, I was able to email the concierge what I need printed out and he was very happy to oblige.
First order of business....food, of course! We were close to Barceloneta, so we headed there, walked around a bit and had lunch at Restaurante Port Vell -- this was based on a recommendation from my brother who had dined there. For EUR26 we had the plate of the day (DH had paella, I had fish) and this included wine and dessert. It was delicious! I highly recommend this place -- very pleasant sitting outside while dining.
We were off to a great start! We wandered around El Born, getting our bearings....and found our way to the Gothic Quarter -- where we wandered around some more and decided to walk up to Placa de Catalunya and make our way down La Rambla, following the Rick Steves self-guided walking tour of this street.
I soon tired of constantly trying to get my bearings and follow the book at the same time, so I chucked the book (into my bag)....La Rambla is crowded. REALLY CROWDED. Almost to the point that I didn't find it really enjoyable.
But....nirvana. In the form of La Boqueria! We wandered in. Again, really super crowded as it was now close to 4PM and tourists were everywhere! This did not diminish our enjoyment of the market -- be sure to purchase the Jamon Iberico -- many merchants offer it wrapped in a paper cone so you can walk around while eating it.
We ate our way through the market -- fruit, juice and other delicious creations that still makes my mouth water just thinking about it.
We didn't really follow a plan during our stay in Barcelona -- it is just such a magical city, we never grew tired of just walking around the various neighborhoods. We visited most of them and walked miles every day.
We made our way back towards El Born and passed through Placa de Sant Jaume, Carrer del Bisbe, down Via Laeitana, and back into El Born. We did get a little lost trying to find our way back to El Born, but it was so much fun getting lost amongst the little narrow winding lanes and streets!
We passed the Eglesia de Santa Maria del Mar and decided to go inside for a look as I had read that this was a particularly beautiful church of Catalan Gothic design. There was no entrance fee.
It was stunning. But....even better and much to my surprise, we had stumbled onto the rehearsal of the Orquestra Barroca Catalana; the orchestra was practicing for an evening performance that was taking place later that night. They were practicing the Requiem de Mozart.
The acoustics were amazing - I sat there in awe at the gift I had just received. Thank you Barcelona!
We made our way back to the hotel, rested up and went out for dinner. We wanted to go tapas bar hopping but only managed two. Both were right in El Born. In fact, we had most of our late meals in El Born as the area is full of fun places to eat and people-watch.
We started off at Taller de Tapas -- located in a square near the Santa Maria del Mar church on Calle Argentaria. Calle Argentaria is the main drag connecting El Born to Via Laeitana.
Taller de Tapas was really, really good -- we had Jamon Iberico (of course) a cheese plate and a lamb burger with some cava. Cava is the drink of choice in Barcelona, which is a sparkling white wine with a lot more fizzy bubbles in it. DELICIOUS! And at EUR33 a real bargain in my opinion.
We then made our way back towards the church (which turned out to be my absolute favorite spot to sit back, sip a cava, eat a tapa and enjoy watching the world go by), and had another cava for me (sangria for the DH) and a plate of mussels marinara which we shared.
The mussels were just OK, but sitting outside people-watching was a lot of fun. There are a few restaurants with outdoor seating immediately in front of the church -- pick one, have a seat, and enjoy yourself.
On our way back to the hotel we walked past the monument of Catalan Independence. Here, an eternal flame burns in commemoration of the massacred Catalans that took place about 300 years ago.
Made one last stop for a decaf cafe con leche in our hotel's cafe before calling it a night.
What a day. I love Barcelona!
I absolutely LOVE Barcelona!
We caught a morning flight from Granada to Barcelona -- we flew on Vueling Airlines, which is I believe the regional carrier for Iberia. The flight (one-way) only cost EUR80 -- we upgraded to include the cost of checking our bags.
You can get flights on Vueling as cheap as EUR69 if you book far enough in advance. I think Ryan Air also offers cost-effective flights, but the timing on Vueling worked out better for us.
We had a (thankfully) uneventful flight and arrived in Barcelona late morning. We could have taken a bus to the center of the city, but with our overstuffed baggage in hand, we figured it would be easier to take a cab. The cost was EUR30 from the airport to our hotel.
We stayed at Park Hotel Barcelona. From my research (and advice from this site), I knew I wanted to stay in El Born. The price was right (by Barcelona standards as hotels here are expensive) and the location was right off Paseo (or Passeig) del Born -- perfect!
The hotel itself was OK -- it appears that the lower floors of the hotel have been rehabbed, but the upper levels have not. We were given a room on the 3rd floor (not new) -- I went into the bathroom and found a tiny little bug (they call them silver fish in my part of the USA) -- so we didn't unpack but went down to the lobby to get a different room. Not a problem, and our new room was completely redone in a modern decor. Excellent.
The only downside to this hotel was that there was no business center, or any way to print out reservations or tickets to attractions. That said, I was able to email the concierge what I need printed out and he was very happy to oblige.
First order of business....food, of course! We were close to Barceloneta, so we headed there, walked around a bit and had lunch at Restaurante Port Vell -- this was based on a recommendation from my brother who had dined there. For EUR26 we had the plate of the day (DH had paella, I had fish) and this included wine and dessert. It was delicious! I highly recommend this place -- very pleasant sitting outside while dining.
We were off to a great start! We wandered around El Born, getting our bearings....and found our way to the Gothic Quarter -- where we wandered around some more and decided to walk up to Placa de Catalunya and make our way down La Rambla, following the Rick Steves self-guided walking tour of this street.
I soon tired of constantly trying to get my bearings and follow the book at the same time, so I chucked the book (into my bag)....La Rambla is crowded. REALLY CROWDED. Almost to the point that I didn't find it really enjoyable.
But....nirvana. In the form of La Boqueria! We wandered in. Again, really super crowded as it was now close to 4PM and tourists were everywhere! This did not diminish our enjoyment of the market -- be sure to purchase the Jamon Iberico -- many merchants offer it wrapped in a paper cone so you can walk around while eating it.
We ate our way through the market -- fruit, juice and other delicious creations that still makes my mouth water just thinking about it.
We didn't really follow a plan during our stay in Barcelona -- it is just such a magical city, we never grew tired of just walking around the various neighborhoods. We visited most of them and walked miles every day.
We made our way back towards El Born and passed through Placa de Sant Jaume, Carrer del Bisbe, down Via Laeitana, and back into El Born. We did get a little lost trying to find our way back to El Born, but it was so much fun getting lost amongst the little narrow winding lanes and streets!
We passed the Eglesia de Santa Maria del Mar and decided to go inside for a look as I had read that this was a particularly beautiful church of Catalan Gothic design. There was no entrance fee.
It was stunning. But....even better and much to my surprise, we had stumbled onto the rehearsal of the Orquestra Barroca Catalana; the orchestra was practicing for an evening performance that was taking place later that night. They were practicing the Requiem de Mozart.
The acoustics were amazing - I sat there in awe at the gift I had just received. Thank you Barcelona!
We made our way back to the hotel, rested up and went out for dinner. We wanted to go tapas bar hopping but only managed two. Both were right in El Born. In fact, we had most of our late meals in El Born as the area is full of fun places to eat and people-watch.
We started off at Taller de Tapas -- located in a square near the Santa Maria del Mar church on Calle Argentaria. Calle Argentaria is the main drag connecting El Born to Via Laeitana.
Taller de Tapas was really, really good -- we had Jamon Iberico (of course) a cheese plate and a lamb burger with some cava. Cava is the drink of choice in Barcelona, which is a sparkling white wine with a lot more fizzy bubbles in it. DELICIOUS! And at EUR33 a real bargain in my opinion.
We then made our way back towards the church (which turned out to be my absolute favorite spot to sit back, sip a cava, eat a tapa and enjoy watching the world go by), and had another cava for me (sangria for the DH) and a plate of mussels marinara which we shared.
The mussels were just OK, but sitting outside people-watching was a lot of fun. There are a few restaurants with outdoor seating immediately in front of the church -- pick one, have a seat, and enjoy yourself.
On our way back to the hotel we walked past the monument of Catalan Independence. Here, an eternal flame burns in commemoration of the massacred Catalans that took place about 300 years ago.
Made one last stop for a decaf cafe con leche in our hotel's cafe before calling it a night.
What a day. I love Barcelona!
