Our Spain Adventure -- Cordoba, Seville, Granada and Barcelona! (Part One)
Apr 22nd, 2014, 03:04 AM
#42
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SEVILLE continued
We are not big fans of museums, most of our touring in Seville consisted of a lot of walking (we literally walked MILES every day of our two-week trip), so we decided to follow the Rick Steves self-guided walking tour of Barrio Santa Cruz to begin our exploration of Seville.
But first, we went into the Alcazar -- what a beautiful place -- the mosaic tiles were a true wonder to behold and the gardens were just spectacular! There are a lot of guide books that describe it better than anything I can put to paper -- so just go and experience it!
The exit of the Alcazar left us at right about the beginning of the self-guided walking tour. It was delightful -- buy the Rick Steves guide book on Southern Spain, it offers a lot of self-walking tours and we did this in both Seville and Barcelona.
Speaking of guide books, I purchased the massive Fodors Spain guidebook as well as the smaller Rick Steves Barcelona and Rick Steves Southern Spain guidebooks. The Rick Steves guide books were small enough to pack, but we left the Fodors book at home -- in fact, I only briefly glanced at it and at almost USD30 for the book I think it was a waste of money. It sits in my reading room, untouched. The Rick Steves guides are actually excerpts of his main Spain guide, separated into several books on each region and I found these to be more practical to bring with us. We followed it for great tips and maps and both books were small enough to fit in our camera bag without weighing us down.
We got to see things that we probably would have overlooked. Patios that we could peek into, narrow little streets (called "kissing lanes"), charming little plazas....all just a few blocks from our hotel, but they would have gone undetected by us had we not followed the guide book. We stopped along the way for cafe con leche and delicious bit of sweetness that was calling our name through the glass pane of a cafe's counter. It was the perfect start to our Seville adventure.
We made our way back to the hotel and stopped for a rest and got ready for dinner.
We had a late dinner of tapas at Restaurante Taberna Poncio -- it was on my list AND it was right next door to our hotel so we didn't need to go very far. Dinner was delicious,but the portions were small and I think for the cost (EUR50) we could have had a larger meal for less cost elsewhere.
Nonetheless, the place itself was really charming, beautifully decorated and the personnel were friendly and helpful.....we were finally getting the hang of eating late and ordering small. Overall, no regrets, but I think you could find other restaurants of the same caliber at a better price.
We stopped for a DECAF coffee at the square in front of our hotel and called it a night.
A great start to a beautiful city.
We are not big fans of museums, most of our touring in Seville consisted of a lot of walking (we literally walked MILES every day of our two-week trip), so we decided to follow the Rick Steves self-guided walking tour of Barrio Santa Cruz to begin our exploration of Seville.
But first, we went into the Alcazar -- what a beautiful place -- the mosaic tiles were a true wonder to behold and the gardens were just spectacular! There are a lot of guide books that describe it better than anything I can put to paper -- so just go and experience it!
The exit of the Alcazar left us at right about the beginning of the self-guided walking tour. It was delightful -- buy the Rick Steves guide book on Southern Spain, it offers a lot of self-walking tours and we did this in both Seville and Barcelona.
Speaking of guide books, I purchased the massive Fodors Spain guidebook as well as the smaller Rick Steves Barcelona and Rick Steves Southern Spain guidebooks. The Rick Steves guide books were small enough to pack, but we left the Fodors book at home -- in fact, I only briefly glanced at it and at almost USD30 for the book I think it was a waste of money. It sits in my reading room, untouched. The Rick Steves guides are actually excerpts of his main Spain guide, separated into several books on each region and I found these to be more practical to bring with us. We followed it for great tips and maps and both books were small enough to fit in our camera bag without weighing us down.
We got to see things that we probably would have overlooked. Patios that we could peek into, narrow little streets (called "kissing lanes"), charming little plazas....all just a few blocks from our hotel, but they would have gone undetected by us had we not followed the guide book. We stopped along the way for cafe con leche and delicious bit of sweetness that was calling our name through the glass pane of a cafe's counter. It was the perfect start to our Seville adventure.
We made our way back to the hotel and stopped for a rest and got ready for dinner.
We had a late dinner of tapas at Restaurante Taberna Poncio -- it was on my list AND it was right next door to our hotel so we didn't need to go very far. Dinner was delicious,but the portions were small and I think for the cost (EUR50) we could have had a larger meal for less cost elsewhere.
Nonetheless, the place itself was really charming, beautifully decorated and the personnel were friendly and helpful.....we were finally getting the hang of eating late and ordering small. Overall, no regrets, but I think you could find other restaurants of the same caliber at a better price.
We stopped for a DECAF coffee at the square in front of our hotel and called it a night.
A great start to a beautiful city.
Apr 23rd, 2014, 04:48 AM
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The next morning we were up early, ready to take on the day. We stopped at 3 Oros Restaurant for breakfast, thinking I could find churros there. Churros are fried pastry that you dip in chocolate.
3 Oros didn't have churros, so they sent us RIGHT NEXT DOOR which was a churros shop where they make them on the spot for you! I bought some while DH got us a table and ordered cafe con leche, along with a cup of thick sweet delicious chocolate to dip our churros in. OMG it was so good! So good in fact that we had this for breakfast every morning!
We followed a tip in the Rick Steves book by heading over to the Church of the Savior to purchase our combo tickets for both this church and the cathedral. This saved us a lot of wait time at the cathedral as we were able to bypass the long lines to buy tickets. Great tip!
Church of the Savior was so, so beautiful.....DH and I both agree that it was more beautiful than the cathedral, which we found to be poorly lit and a little gloomy. Staff were starting to prep the cathedral for Semana Santa so maybe that's why we weren't over the top with it -- there was a lot of scaffolding covering up a lot of the chapels, etc.....but it was still very beautiful to see and I'm glad we spent time there. We also didn't make it up to the top of the Giralda Tower (DH's bum knee prevented us) so I think we missed out on the best part.
We made our way over to the Arenal neighborhood for lunch. I was looking for a restaurant called La Isla (located on Calle Arfe). We were the first to arrive, and the waiter made a big fuss over us, which was really nice.
We wanted to eat Paella and the waiter suggested we order the one with 4 large langoustines which is a large shrimp (almost the size of a baby lobster) so we went for it. It was out of this world delicious!
However, we got sticker shock when we got the bill! EUR91 for paella salad and wine. While we have no regrets spending this much for one meal (we were on vacation after all), if you go here for lunch (and I highly recommend that you do) order the paella but only TWO langoustines and make sure it's a 2-person order of paella. We definitely got "had" by the waiter.
The serving we got was enough to feed 6 people, we left more than half of it behind and had 2 servings each. It was way toooooo much food and although delicious, we could have spent half the amount of money on a half-size order.
After lunch we made our way towards the river and strolled along the promenade to the Torre de Oro, took some photos but didn't go inside as we just wanted to wander.
We booked a tour of the bullfighting ring which was nearby. It was fascinating, especially the chapel where the toreador prays before the big show. You can't visit on your own, there are only guided tours available. On this day, there was a huge tent set up in the middle of the ring for some medal ceremony taking place later that week, so we didn't get a full view of the ring and we couldn't tour the medical area, but it was still a fun time.
We made our way over to the bridge that took us into Triana. A beautiful stroll and a lovely square along the river. I've read on this site about how many people love staying in Triana. While I thought Triana was nice for an hour's stroll I was glad that I hadn't booked a hotel there as it was too far away from the tourist center. It was, in a way, a residential area much like the neighborhood we stayed in when we were in Cordoba -- I'm glad we stayed in Barrio Santa Cruz instead -- it was much more charming, in my opinion.
After Triana, we stopped at, yes, an Irish bar -- Guinness for the DH and a cafe con leche for me. It was starting to get cloudy and the wind was picking up so we made our way over to Maria Luisa Park -- it was quite a walk but was so worth it!
We found Plaza de Espana nearby -- beautiful building and worthy of the walk just to take some photos and enjoy the scenery. We left that area and stumbled upon Plaza Nueva - an equally beautiful area.
We wandered back towards our hotel and decided to go to Hotel Dona Maria's rooftop bar for a drink. The view of the cathedral (right next door) was stunning. Go there!
That night we attended the flamenco show. Glad it was just a few doors away from our hotel because it was POURING RAIN!
The show was spectacular! It was completely different from the show we saw in Cordoba. The dancing was still eloquent, but it was also angry -- as if the female dancer was really pissed off at the male dancer. A completely different experience from the Cordoba show but equally mesmerizing. There was only one guitarist and this time a female singer -- and her singing was more like poignant wailing -- she was baring her soul in her singing and the dancing emphasized it. The show took place in a patio on a stage that was flush with the floor.
We had front row seats and a bird's eye view of their faces and I could see the passion, and the anger, written across their faces as they danced. Paired with the soulful, wailing/singing, I was in a trance beginning to end. It was just fantastic.
After the show we had dinner at 3 Oros -- go there! It was reasonably priced and the diners were mostly locals, you will love it!
3 Oros didn't have churros, so they sent us RIGHT NEXT DOOR which was a churros shop where they make them on the spot for you! I bought some while DH got us a table and ordered cafe con leche, along with a cup of thick sweet delicious chocolate to dip our churros in. OMG it was so good! So good in fact that we had this for breakfast every morning!
We followed a tip in the Rick Steves book by heading over to the Church of the Savior to purchase our combo tickets for both this church and the cathedral. This saved us a lot of wait time at the cathedral as we were able to bypass the long lines to buy tickets. Great tip!
Church of the Savior was so, so beautiful.....DH and I both agree that it was more beautiful than the cathedral, which we found to be poorly lit and a little gloomy. Staff were starting to prep the cathedral for Semana Santa so maybe that's why we weren't over the top with it -- there was a lot of scaffolding covering up a lot of the chapels, etc.....but it was still very beautiful to see and I'm glad we spent time there. We also didn't make it up to the top of the Giralda Tower (DH's bum knee prevented us) so I think we missed out on the best part.
We made our way over to the Arenal neighborhood for lunch. I was looking for a restaurant called La Isla (located on Calle Arfe). We were the first to arrive, and the waiter made a big fuss over us, which was really nice.
We wanted to eat Paella and the waiter suggested we order the one with 4 large langoustines which is a large shrimp (almost the size of a baby lobster) so we went for it. It was out of this world delicious!
However, we got sticker shock when we got the bill! EUR91 for paella salad and wine. While we have no regrets spending this much for one meal (we were on vacation after all), if you go here for lunch (and I highly recommend that you do) order the paella but only TWO langoustines and make sure it's a 2-person order of paella. We definitely got "had" by the waiter.
The serving we got was enough to feed 6 people, we left more than half of it behind and had 2 servings each. It was way toooooo much food and although delicious, we could have spent half the amount of money on a half-size order.
After lunch we made our way towards the river and strolled along the promenade to the Torre de Oro, took some photos but didn't go inside as we just wanted to wander.
We booked a tour of the bullfighting ring which was nearby. It was fascinating, especially the chapel where the toreador prays before the big show. You can't visit on your own, there are only guided tours available. On this day, there was a huge tent set up in the middle of the ring for some medal ceremony taking place later that week, so we didn't get a full view of the ring and we couldn't tour the medical area, but it was still a fun time.
We made our way over to the bridge that took us into Triana. A beautiful stroll and a lovely square along the river. I've read on this site about how many people love staying in Triana. While I thought Triana was nice for an hour's stroll I was glad that I hadn't booked a hotel there as it was too far away from the tourist center. It was, in a way, a residential area much like the neighborhood we stayed in when we were in Cordoba -- I'm glad we stayed in Barrio Santa Cruz instead -- it was much more charming, in my opinion.
After Triana, we stopped at, yes, an Irish bar -- Guinness for the DH and a cafe con leche for me. It was starting to get cloudy and the wind was picking up so we made our way over to Maria Luisa Park -- it was quite a walk but was so worth it!
We found Plaza de Espana nearby -- beautiful building and worthy of the walk just to take some photos and enjoy the scenery. We left that area and stumbled upon Plaza Nueva - an equally beautiful area.
We wandered back towards our hotel and decided to go to Hotel Dona Maria's rooftop bar for a drink. The view of the cathedral (right next door) was stunning. Go there!
That night we attended the flamenco show. Glad it was just a few doors away from our hotel because it was POURING RAIN!
The show was spectacular! It was completely different from the show we saw in Cordoba. The dancing was still eloquent, but it was also angry -- as if the female dancer was really pissed off at the male dancer. A completely different experience from the Cordoba show but equally mesmerizing. There was only one guitarist and this time a female singer -- and her singing was more like poignant wailing -- she was baring her soul in her singing and the dancing emphasized it. The show took place in a patio on a stage that was flush with the floor.
We had front row seats and a bird's eye view of their faces and I could see the passion, and the anger, written across their faces as they danced. Paired with the soulful, wailing/singing, I was in a trance beginning to end. It was just fantastic.
After the show we had dinner at 3 Oros -- go there! It was reasonably priced and the diners were mostly locals, you will love it!
Apr 23rd, 2014, 07:33 AM
#45
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What do you do on a rainy day in Seville?
Anything you want!
We took a cab up to Basilica Macarena -- too far to walk. The church was gorgeous and we got to go in the back of the altar to see the view of the church from behind the statue of Mary, and we got an up close view of the statue itself. Simply beautiful.
From there we took another cab ride to Casa de Pilatos. The entry fee includes an audio guide so I listened to it for a bit, but again, I find these things too distracting. I may not leave a particular attraction more knowledgeable about it but that's OK with me. I prefer to wander around and just absorb the history, the majesty of each place I visit. The tour included a visit to some of the rooms and I really enjoyed learning about the Duke of Medinaceli's family and history.
It had (briefly) stopped raining so we walked back towards Barrio Santa Cruz and found ourselves once again near the Church of the Savior -- we stopped for lunch at a small local eatery then over a few blocks for coffee and dessert on Calle Sierpes.
Calle Sierpes is a really nice street to window shop -- there were many shop windows showcasing flamenco dresses of all shapes, sizes and level of grandeur -- we found a 'department' store that had a sale going on and I finally got to purchase a lightweight coat (it was quite chilly that day and also in Granada a few days later, so it was a great purchase).
Back down in Barrio Santa Cruz, we also visited Hospital de los Venerables -- completely different from all the other churches we'd seen so far in Spain. There was also an exhibit by a local artist (can't remember the name) that displayed some beautiful paintings, especially of early Seville. Not sure if it is an ongoing exhibit, but if you're there and it's there, go see it.
Our last day in Seville we visited the Metropol. I had read about it and was curious to see what it looked like. Meh. It was just OK, we didn't take the tour....but we did go into the market located there. What a fabulous display of all kinds of food! The freshest fruit and vegetables I've ever seen....the fish selection was unbelievable! I counted at least 6 different varieties of shrimp, even more of squid. It was just amazing.
We ended the day (had a 4PM train to Granada) with a fabulous lunch at our favorite Seville restaurant, La Azotea.
I am sure we missed a lot of great places to visit -- we didn't hit any of the museums and I would have enjoyed a day trip to Italica....but Seville was beautiful and I will treasure all the moments I experienced there.
Next up....Granada!
,
Anything you want!
We took a cab up to Basilica Macarena -- too far to walk. The church was gorgeous and we got to go in the back of the altar to see the view of the church from behind the statue of Mary, and we got an up close view of the statue itself. Simply beautiful.
From there we took another cab ride to Casa de Pilatos. The entry fee includes an audio guide so I listened to it for a bit, but again, I find these things too distracting. I may not leave a particular attraction more knowledgeable about it but that's OK with me. I prefer to wander around and just absorb the history, the majesty of each place I visit. The tour included a visit to some of the rooms and I really enjoyed learning about the Duke of Medinaceli's family and history.
It had (briefly) stopped raining so we walked back towards Barrio Santa Cruz and found ourselves once again near the Church of the Savior -- we stopped for lunch at a small local eatery then over a few blocks for coffee and dessert on Calle Sierpes.
Calle Sierpes is a really nice street to window shop -- there were many shop windows showcasing flamenco dresses of all shapes, sizes and level of grandeur -- we found a 'department' store that had a sale going on and I finally got to purchase a lightweight coat (it was quite chilly that day and also in Granada a few days later, so it was a great purchase).
Back down in Barrio Santa Cruz, we also visited Hospital de los Venerables -- completely different from all the other churches we'd seen so far in Spain. There was also an exhibit by a local artist (can't remember the name) that displayed some beautiful paintings, especially of early Seville. Not sure if it is an ongoing exhibit, but if you're there and it's there, go see it.
Our last day in Seville we visited the Metropol. I had read about it and was curious to see what it looked like. Meh. It was just OK, we didn't take the tour....but we did go into the market located there. What a fabulous display of all kinds of food! The freshest fruit and vegetables I've ever seen....the fish selection was unbelievable! I counted at least 6 different varieties of shrimp, even more of squid. It was just amazing.
We ended the day (had a 4PM train to Granada) with a fabulous lunch at our favorite Seville restaurant, La Azotea.
I am sure we missed a lot of great places to visit -- we didn't hit any of the museums and I would have enjoyed a day trip to Italica....but Seville was beautiful and I will treasure all the moments I experienced there.
Next up....Granada!
,
Apr 24th, 2014, 07:14 AM
#46
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Re the difficulties of using the Renfe web site: the "seat61" blogger recommends this site as an easier way to make Renfe reservations, for just a slight fee: http://petrabax.com/renfe/
I have not used this yet, just passing this on FWIW. I am just beginning to think about a trip to Spain later this year and thank you Judy for this excellent trip report.
I have not used this yet, just passing this on FWIW. I am just beginning to think about a trip to Spain later this year and thank you Judy for this excellent trip report.
Apr 24th, 2014, 01:24 PM
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Thank you for this wonderful, comprehensive trip report. We leave two weeks from today for our first trip to Spain and I'll be using your remarks for guidelines.
I often read, then cut and paste the trip reports into a Word document, edit it and then take it along to supplement my own notes. Thanks for some great suggestions!
I often read, then cut and paste the trip reports into a Word document, edit it and then take it along to supplement my own notes. Thanks for some great suggestions!
Apr 24th, 2014, 04:57 PM
#50
You are making me very hungry! I can't wait till we go next year!
Thank you for a wonderfully- detailed report, filled with your impressions (love the descriptions of the flamenco performances) and practical unto as well. I will remember 2 langoustines, not 4!
Paule
Thank you for a wonderfully- detailed report, filled with your impressions (love the descriptions of the flamenco performances) and practical unto as well. I will remember 2 langoustines, not 4!
Paule
Apr 24th, 2014, 08:01 PM
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Hi Judy_Rosa, thanks for a great TR, it has been very helpful & timely since we will be in Spain in just over 2 weeks!
Had a question, where did you go for the Flamenco performance in Seville? I hope we enjoy it as much as you did!
Eagerly waiting for the rest!
Had a question, where did you go for the Flamenco performance in Seville? I hope we enjoy it as much as you did!
Eagerly waiting for the rest!
Apr 25th, 2014, 02:20 AM
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Thanks everyone -- I'm enjoying reliving the memories as I write about them.
excited_confused: We went to the flamenco show at Hotel Alcantara -- next to the hotel is where it's held, in an authentic patio. It was raining so hard that the patio, although fully enclosed, had a ceiling cover made of canvas (waterproof) which I think they roll back when weather permits. So the rain pelting on it added to the overall experience. It was awesome!
excited_confused: We went to the flamenco show at Hotel Alcantara -- next to the hotel is where it's held, in an authentic patio. It was raining so hard that the patio, although fully enclosed, had a ceiling cover made of canvas (waterproof) which I think they roll back when weather permits. So the rain pelting on it added to the overall experience. It was awesome!
Apr 25th, 2014, 03:15 AM
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excited_confused
The place at Hotel Alcantara is called La Casa del Flamenco: http://www.lacasadelflamencosevilla.com/
I would nevertheless advice you to check the program in Casa de la Memória. Much the same deal as La Casa del Flamenco: no food, no drinks, just flamenco. But plain fantastic Pastora Galván from Sevilla dances in Casa de la Memória regularly, and if she's on, I wouldn't hesitate a second, go here!
Pastora Galván was voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics, and she was the big star of that year's Bienal de Flamenco in Sevilla, the most prestigious flamenco festival in the world. Now she's nominated to the Premio Max as best female dancer in Spain 2013 in all categories for this performance with the Ballett Flamenco de Andalucía:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-LEEMFun20
Casa de la Memória: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/
Check the program here, not scheduled for your week yet:
http://www.casadelamemoria.es/agenda/
Pastora Galván has danced in the performance "Arte flamenco" in Casa de la Memória in recent weeks. This gives you an idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2SBUcrJgeQ
The place at Hotel Alcantara is called La Casa del Flamenco: http://www.lacasadelflamencosevilla.com/
I would nevertheless advice you to check the program in Casa de la Memória. Much the same deal as La Casa del Flamenco: no food, no drinks, just flamenco. But plain fantastic Pastora Galván from Sevilla dances in Casa de la Memória regularly, and if she's on, I wouldn't hesitate a second, go here!
Pastora Galván was voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics, and she was the big star of that year's Bienal de Flamenco in Sevilla, the most prestigious flamenco festival in the world. Now she's nominated to the Premio Max as best female dancer in Spain 2013 in all categories for this performance with the Ballett Flamenco de Andalucía:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-LEEMFun20
Casa de la Memória: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/
Check the program here, not scheduled for your week yet:
http://www.casadelamemoria.es/agenda/
Pastora Galván has danced in the performance "Arte flamenco" in Casa de la Memória in recent weeks. This gives you an idea:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2SBUcrJgeQ
Apr 25th, 2014, 06:47 AM
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The link below is similar to the show I saw in Cordoba -- the dancer in white was the main dancer at the show we attended. It's the same male dancer. And I believe the same musicians as well.
There were 3 additional female dancers at the show we went to -- but the woman dressed in white in this video was the 'star' of the show we saw. She was electrifying! And we had front row seats, so it was especially incredible to watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvq1b4OtaPs
If you can't click directly to the link, you can always copy/past the above url into your browser if you're interested in taking a look.
There were 3 additional female dancers at the show we went to -- but the woman dressed in white in this video was the 'star' of the show we saw. She was electrifying! And we had front row seats, so it was especially incredible to watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvq1b4OtaPs
If you can't click directly to the link, you can always copy/past the above url into your browser if you're interested in taking a look.
Apr 25th, 2014, 08:57 AM
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The main dancer your night in Córdoba was Victoria Palacios. She won the prestigious "La Malena" dance prize in the National Flamenco Competition in Córdoba in 1992: http://www.nacionaldearteflamenco.es...oncurso/a1992/
Here Palacios and Antonio Alcázar come in at 1.30: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTzXz8-_mUY
They performed in New York a couple of years ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RJaGqaGpAg
During the National competition where Palacios won the "La Malena" prize in 1992, Eva Yerbabuena won the "La Mejorana" prize. Yerbabuena is probably the finest flamenco dancer in the world the past fifteen years. Here in the Flamenco White Night (Noche Blanca de Flamenco) in Plaza de las Tendillas in Córdoba (close to where you stayed) in June 2011.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAm4z2EJjQU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clCZYH5VNWw
Here Palacios and Antonio Alcázar come in at 1.30: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTzXz8-_mUY
They performed in New York a couple of years ago:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RJaGqaGpAg
During the National competition where Palacios won the "La Malena" prize in 1992, Eva Yerbabuena won the "La Mejorana" prize. Yerbabuena is probably the finest flamenco dancer in the world the past fifteen years. Here in the Flamenco White Night (Noche Blanca de Flamenco) in Plaza de las Tendillas in Córdoba (close to where you stayed) in June 2011.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAm4z2EJjQU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clCZYH5VNWw
Apr 26th, 2014, 02:25 PM
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I too am enjoying reading your trip report.
My husband and I leave for Spain in two weeks and we are getting pretty excited. We are doing Madrid, Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Costa del Sol area for two weeks.
We are planning to check out flamenco show in Seville.
My husband and I leave for Spain in two weeks and we are getting pretty excited. We are doing Madrid, Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Costa del Sol area for two weeks.
We are planning to check out flamenco show in Seville.
