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Our Spain Adventure -- Cordoba, Seville, Granada and Barcelona! (Part One)

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Our Spain Adventure -- Cordoba, Seville, Granada and Barcelona! (Part One)

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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 04:44 AM
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GRANADA

The best thing about Granada was.....my family drove all the way from Lisbon to spend the weekend with me! So I got to tour one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen with some of my favorite people!

We arrived by train from Seville on a rainy afternoon. The cab driver had difficulty finding our hotel which I thought was really weird. And the price reflected the driving around in circles. We stayed at Casa de la Trinidad, right in front of the square of the same name.

The hotel was perfectly located, right near a few awesome tapas bars and just a few blocks from the Cathedral. Our room faced the square and had 3 (!!) balconies which was fabulous.....however.....the bed was like sleeping on bedrock. It was so hard that we woke up with back aches! I guess we could have asked to change rooms, but this was our 3rd hotel in one week, we had already unpacked and there was no guarantee that a different room would have a more comfortable bed, so we kept the room with the fabulous view. And 3 balconies.

The staff at the hotel could not be more helpful. They arranged for DH and I to see a flamenco show in a cave up in the Albaycin and gave us a few restaurant recommendations. My family preferred to have breakfast in the hotel so we did as well while they were there -- but it was only an OK breakfast and the cost (EUR12 I think) was expensive and not worth it. After the family left, we had breakfast in the square in front of the hotel and it was cheap and delicious.

Around the block from our hotel was the famous Olivers. And they are famous for good reason...the tapas kept coming with each drink -- I ordered a small glass of beer, which was the perfect size and quite good. The tapas were good too -- we asked the bartender to order tapas for us since we were a group of 7 and couldn't decide (one of the joys of group travel)....LOL We got mostly fish tapas, can't remember all the different dishes but all were quite good.

The 'free' tapas you get with your drink is usually a small roll with tuna. This was the case for us at Olivers and a few other tapas places we stopped at, both in Granada and Barcelona.

Of course the tapas change with each drink -- but we're not big drinkers, so we usually ordered only one or two drinks. When the DH and I were on our own again, we would order extra tapas, beyond the free one we got with our drinks.

Olivers offers indoor and outdoor seating -- since it was raining we went indoors, but there is also covered seating outdoors with linens, etc.....since we were only there for tapas and not a full meal, we didn't go for the outdoor space as I believe you could only order full meals there. There are also a few tables set up directly outside the entrance, but those were taken.....we came back to Olivers more than once, it was that good (Jamon Iberico was outstanding!) and ate outside.

The next day we set out to explore Granada in the morning because we had reserved Alhambra tickets for the afternoon.

A word about getting tickets to the Alhambra: I ordered tickets online a few weeks before our trip, got my receipt and used the SAME CREDIT CARD to pick up the actual tickets from a bookstore near Plaza Nueva. Getting the tickets was easy.....what was not so easy is getting into the Alhambra and here's why:

When I bought the tickets I purchased a regular entry for me and a 'senior' discount for my DH. When we arrived at the entrance of the Alhambra, I had no problem entering....but...my DH could not, he had to go stand in a line that was about 3 miles long to PROVE he was a senior citizen. That took about 1.5 hours -- I stayed in line with him as I wasn't going without him! When we FINALLY got to the ticket counter, DH handed his ID card over, and we were then told that the discount applied only to European Community citizens only -- had to shell out the extra EUR5 for him to get in.

Maybe I misunderstood the instructions on the web site regarding discounted tickets. I probably did. But, moral of the story is just eat the extra EUR5 and buy the full fare ticket if you are NOT a citizen of Europe -- the waiting time alone is not worth the discount. It didn't matter that we already had tickets in hand, we had to wait with all the non-ticket holders for our turn at the counter. AND....for the hundreds of people waiting in line, there were only 2 counters open. I was beyond irritated, especially since our 'reserved time' for entry into the palace came and went and we were still standing in line!

Fortunately they waived the reservation time and we were able to get in to the palace beyond our appointed reservation time.

This is one of the attractions in Spain that I highly recommend that you rent the audio guide -- the place is so breathtaking and so MASSIVE that the guide really helped me keep track of everything I saw.

The Alhambra is quite possibly the most amazing place I've ever seen. And again, as with so many things we saw in Spain, there are no words to fully describe this wonder. Go. And plan on staying all day to fully see and appreciate all of it.

After the Alhambra, we made our way back down to Plaza Nueva using the same bus (#30 I think) that took us up. I believe you can walk to the Alhambra, but for the cheap cost of the bus, I don't think it's worth walking (unless you enjoy hiking uphill) -- you will be doing a lot of walking on the grounds, so save your legs for the Alhambra, take the bus.

We decided to go tapas hopping -- we started at Diamantes near Plaza Nueva (EXCELLENT -- go there) and then wandered up Carrera del Darro -- a charming little street that winds its way up into the Albaycin along the Darro River. Had more tapas at a few eateries along this street. This part of Granada is just so charming and adorable that DH and I gravitated to this area every day of our stay.

Dinner was unremarkable -- it had been a long, long day and we were all really tired, so we found a random restaurant off Plaza Nueva and ate some mediocre food.

Then back to the hotel to sleep on our bed of rocks.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 06:28 AM
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The next morning my family left -- so DH and I were on our own again. We visited the Cathedral -- so beautiful, we liked this cathedral much more so than the one in Seville.

It was filled with light and brightness and we noticed it was considerably cooler than outside -- a welcome reprieve in the warmer weather. We were always blown away by all the buildings we saw throughout Spain -- built so many centuries ago and yet still standing in its glory -- how did they build such majestic structures with the technology of their day? Simply amazing.

We also toured the Royal Chapel -- the final resting place of the Catholic Monarchs. We followed the Rick Steve's self-guided tour, which gave us some really interesting bits of information (such as the dent in Isabel's pillow is due to her larger brain)....the high altar in front of the tombs was striking and is said to be one of the finest Renaissance works in Spain.

I keep using words like 'amazing' throughout my entire trip report....there are not enough synonyms to describe the wonders of Spain!

We left the chapel and wandered around the Alcaiceria -- right next to the Cathedral and Chapel -- which was originally a Moorish silk market. It was fun walking up and down the narrow lanes and peeking into shops (filled with tacky touristy things).....and found ourselves in Plaza de Bib-Rambla.

This is where I read about a great cafe where we could buy churros con chocolate. We found it (I think it's called Gran Cafe Bib-Ramblas) but the churros were a disappointment compared to what we had in Seville. The churros were over-fried and greasy...I am sure you can find better churros elsewhere.

While walking in the plaza, we came across a group of men who were practicing for Semana Santa. They were carrying on their shoulders the structure that would hold the statue of the Virgin. It held instead, for their rehearsal, about a dozen solid concrete slabs (like the kind you see for temporary construction on highways). Must have weighed at least a ton. There were about 20 guys underneath it and at the count of the 'conductor' (the guy leading the rehearsal) they would hoist it onto their shoulders and march around the plaza. I was really impressed!

We took a bus up into the Albaycin that left us at Mirador San Nicolas. WHAT A VIEW!!! We took about a thousand pictures, then followed the Rick Steve's self-guided walking tour of the area. We found a restaurant in a small square that had a lunch special displayed in its window, so we went in and had a really nice meal (including beer/wine) for under EUR15. It was delicious. Can't remember the name of the place but there are many little tabernas throughout the area, pick one and enjoy!

We took the bus back down to Plaza Nueva, and walked up Carrer del Darro, to the top of the street where we found a large square along the river. The restaurants along this street had outdoor seating set up in the square so we sat and of course had some cafe con leche and a delicious dessert and enjoyed the view (lots of musicians playing and singing for the crowd), reviewed our trusty map and guide book and planned out the rest of our day.

We decided to follow the map we got from the tourist office and walked around this part of the Albaycin (I think this was the Albaycin -- the lower end) but since it was a Monday most of the churches and other attractions were closed. But we loved walking around the narrow streets and made our way back down to Plaza Nueva.

We headed back to our bedrock hotel and rested up before dinner.

I read about a place in Granada (on Trip Advisor) called La Oliva. It's an olive oil (and other stuff) shop whose owner, Francisco, hosts a tasting dinner a few times each month. Maybe more often than that. So I booked online several weeks in advance for an 8:30 sit down.

It is not possible to describe the 3-hour meal we experienced. It is not a restaurant, it is more like a deli or sorts, filled with shelves displaying different gourmet foods like olive oil, olives, pates, etc....there were 3 or four tables set up in the middle of the shop and about 12 people total.

Francisco is a charming guy, passionate about his wines and food and the 3 hours flew by as he served us course after course of Andalusian regional specialties. We counted 17 different courses ranging from a course of 3 different regional olive oils (with bread for dipping) to delicious fish. We tasted 5 different wines too.....each course was prepared by Francisco on a 2-burner hot plate and served by Francisco and his assistant.

The joy of this experience was not only the wine and the food (which were all out of this world delicious) but the way Francisco described what we were eating and drinking. His genuine love of the region and the stories he shared with us made for a magical evening.

The cost was EUR38 per person. If you expect a 'real restaurant' with a full menu to choose from etc. this is not for you. But if you want to enjoy a truly unique dining experience I highly recommend you spend an evening with Francisco. It was one of the most enjoyable evenings we spent in all of Spain and a memory that will last forever.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 08:15 AM
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What a fun report, Judy_Rosa!

So glad you liked your hotel in charming Barrio Santa Cruz, and that you got out to see so much.

We tried to get a To Go box our first lunch in Seville, when we ordered one tapa too many and thought the potatoes would be nice fried for breakfast later. The server kindly want to ask management about this unusual request, came back with regrets. Not the Done Thing there.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 08:28 AM
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Thank you for your response.....wasn't sure if anyone was still reading this, was going to stop writing about my trip.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 08:41 AM
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Please finish...I am enjoying reading about your trip.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 08:44 AM
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Awww....thanks!
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 09:13 AM
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Me too!! Can't wait to hear more!
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 10:00 AM
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I'm reading. I'm really bad at commenting, though.

You did make me book Flamenco at Tablao Cardenal, though I doubt it will be the same dancers in late June.

I do have some questions about the restaurants.

You mention booking at some of the restaurants, but not at others. Does that mean any place you did NOT mention pre-booking will be ok to simply walk into? Would they be ok as a single person, or should I stick to tapas places and other simpler places?

I've heard about the free tapas with drinks in Granada, before. But, is that only alcoholic drinks? Anything stronger than a light cider will make me sleepy or worse. Last time I tried I could barely walk after a glass. I am willing to pay for the tapas, if they aren't free with non-alcoholic drinks, but I'd like to know before I go. Less risk of making myself look stupid.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 10:10 AM
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There were some that required reservations, like La Oliva.....but yes, if I didn't mention specifically making a reservation, that's because we were able to just walk in.

Regarding the free tapas, yes I do believe you get a free tapa with any drink even non-alcoholic.....not entirely positive since we always ordered wine or beer.

I think my cousins ordered soda and got a free tapa with it.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 10:13 AM
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And, I think it's perfectly fine to dine alone at a restaurant. I do it all the time when I'm away on business.


I think you'll be fine dining alone whether at a taberna or restaurant! Enjoy the freedom!
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 10:24 AM
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Judy_Rosa: Thanks. I'm counting down the days to my own trip. The only thing I'm truly worried about right now is the heat.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 10:42 AM
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Don't stop writing this TR! I'm checking constantly to see if there are any updates! This will definitely be a major reference for next years trip! I'm absolutely loving this, and am really enjoying reading about your experiences. I also love kimhe's posts on flamenco.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 11:46 AM
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Thanks everyone! Almost done, one more day in Granada then off to Barcelona!
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 03:12 PM
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This is awesome! leaving in about a week with my 17 year old for Madrid, Granada and Seville!
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 05:09 PM
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I have been reading and enjoying this, Judy! Andalusia has been on my wish list for some time. We lived in Spain for a year when I was a little girl and I want to revisit--soon.

Thanks for reporting.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 07:29 PM
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Oh Judy! Isn't Granada just a jewel?
I'm enthralled, nodding & smiling as I remember my trip & enjoy yours vicariously.

I can almost smell the anchovies & jamon at La Olivera. What a wonderful experience!

You can (I did several times) walk from Plaza Neuve to the Alhambra. It's actually quite lovely as it goes through a park for the last half.

Thank you, thank you & do please continue.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 10:43 PM
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aneygr,
<You did make me book Flamenco at Tablao Cardenal, though I doubt it will be the same dancers in late June.> It probably will, these artists form the regular group here: http://www.tablaocardenal.es/artistasprincipales.html

The major flamenco event in Córdoba and all of Andalucía in late June is the Noche Blanca del Flamenco/Flamenco White Night on June 21. Then world class flamenco artists perform on open air stages in plazas all around town from late night until dawn the next day. All concerts are free. http://english.turismodecordoba.org/...nco-in-cordoba
Programme: http://www.lanocheblancadelflamenco.cordoba.es/

Starts off with world famous Sara Baras in Plaza de las Tendillas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNcKVJsUkUI

Goes on with José Mercé in Plaza de la Corredera: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzxyefhCQXg

Then, the winners of the 2013 National Flamenco Art Competition, among them the bailaora/dancer Mercedes de Córdoba: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VE8ejuTNpaM

etc. etc. all through the night.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 03:47 AM
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Loving this trip report - thanks!
I have just sent an email to La Oliva to see if they are by any chance holding a tasting dinner during the time we're in Granada. It sounds amazing!
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 05:16 AM
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Your report has been great so far. Lots of good info. We are all booked for our first trip to Spain this upcoming October. We will visit Barcelona, Seville and Cordoba as part of our trip so the info in your trip reports is very helpful. I look forward to reading more.

(I know it is a lot of work - you're doing a great job!)
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 09:51 AM
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I have been reading with much interest. We will be touring Andalucia in June, and we have just come back from 4 days in Barcelona.
I will for sure try to book La Oliva but I'm still in doubt about a flamenco performance. I think we will book Arte y Sabores de Cordoba.
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