Frances

The Orkneys were BRILLIANT!I have just arrived home. Left Kirkwall at 6.45 a.m. today, back in Anglesey at 9.30 pm.
Highlights -all of it but particularly Skaill House , St Magnus Cathedral, the food and the constant sunshine throughout the weekend! Were we lucky or what?
More tomorrow.

caroline_edinburgh

Wow, you were lucky ! I am very happy for you. In 6 days at midsummer I think we had *no* sun at all - or if we did, it wasn't making any impression on the freezing temperatures ! Looking forward to hearing more.

Frances

Well I can now tell you that the shortest way to the Orkneys from Anglesey is via Edinburgh as opposed to Glasgow. There's about 10 miles in it. See what you learn on this forum!
We set off on Thursday afternoon and arrived in Edinburgh 6 hours later. Bearing in mind that this was the night before the royal wedding the traffic was fairly normal- even the first 20 miles on the M6 over the Thelwall Viaduct which can always be a crawl.
We arrived at 10 Hill Place in Edinburgh which after about 12 visits to the city is now my favourite. By booking months in advance we got this for £85. We walked around the corner to the "new" Kushi's in West Nicholson St and had a good meal there - just what we needed after a long journey.
The next morning we met my daughter and boyfriend- he had come up overnight on the Caledonian Sleeper as he had a function in London which was going on until 11p.m. He had been quite excited about this as he had heard that the airline type seats were first class but the reality didn't match up to the expectation!
We had breakfast in Peter's Yard whilst eyeing up the very expensive apartments all around with views over the Meadows. Peter's Yard is a Swedish bakery and that day had THE best selection of cakes for breakfast but they also do a good bread basket with about four different types of bread, cheese home made jam and great coffee.
We rolled out of town at 10a.m.and drove past Perth and stopped for lunch in Aviemore. I'd never been there and there was a good choice of places to eat and drink . On the way back the weather here was glorious and I could see just why this is a popular holiday area, it is very beautiful.
On past Inverness and eventually to Scrabster.
Our B&B in Stromness- The Harbourside was one minute from the ferry. We had two downstairs rooms right on the road and the car was parked outside. The room had been refurbished and was big with a single bed also. It had a fridge which had our breakfast in it. The en-suite had a new powerful shower( for our American friends who may be interested!)The road was actually a road but was paved with large slabs and had very little traffic. I don't think there was any overnight.
We went to the Stromness Hotel for food all of 100 yards away. It seems that restaurants close at 9pm (not that there are many) but they were welcoming when we pitched up at about 8.55 and happy to serve us. The restaurant is on the first floor of the hotel with big windows overlooking the sea. In the hotel there is a notice on the wall saying that it was taken over as Army Headquarters in WW1. My grandfather was in Scapa Flow on the HMS Repulse during that war and the thought that he may well have been in the Stromness Hotel was a nice one. I don't know what he'd have said to see me in licensed premises though!
I had a fish grill which was delicious followed by Orkney fudge ice-cream. There is a big promotion of local food which is well deserved- Orkney beef ( my husband had beef olives) Orkney haddock Grimbister cheese and so on. We all ate very well and by the time we finished noticed that table by table the restaurant had turned into a bar.
The atmosphere was comfortable and friendly. No-one was overtly interested in us but there was no feeling that we were strangers either. These people are happy in their own skins.
That night my daughter and boyfriend said there was a huge amount of noise outside their room for about 20 mins at 2.20 am-chucking out time. They thought it was people leaving the Ferry Inn which was directly in front of us but my husband and I didn't hear it.

caroline_edinburgh

Hi Frances, ejoying your report (I'm afraid I never got round to doing one.) Interested to hear 10 Hill Place is nice - we frequently park in that street when going to the Festival Theatre or Italian Institute and I had wondered.

Looking forward to more ! I did like Orkney, just not the weather. We found the people exceptionally nice.

historytraveler

Thanks for reporting back. Peter's Yard is a new one for me and will check it out on my next trip to Edinburgh. I'm a bit envious of the Orkney weather you experienced. I have been there when it was sunny and very pleasant but also when it was just this side of very miserable.

Waiting to hear more. Thanks.

Frances

I really like 10 Hill Place Caroline, but I didn't mean to say that I'd stayed there 12 times which is what it seems on re-reading. I think this was our fourth stay there. We've also stayed in the Marriott by the airport a few times- because of the free parking, the easy transport into the city and because I like Marriotts. We've stayed in the Ibis in Hunter Square, Apartment by Castle, The place on the campus in Pollock halls- the name of which escapes me, The Terrace Hotel , another University run place just around the corner from Hill Place and a B&B. We only found out last July that parking at 10 Hill Place is quite easy. You can park on the road until 8.30 a.m. It's then just a matter of waiting for someone to leave the hotel car park and you nip in. This time we parked in the street and put 1.5 hours on the parking meter for us to have breakfast. We returned with one minute to go to find a friendly traffic warden waiting for us. Keen or what?
On to Saturday in Stromness.I could see before we opened the curtains that there was brilliant sunshine. It was quite lovely to see a clear blue sky and I think that even if it had clouded over then I would have been vindicated ( For years my husband had been refusing to go because he said it could be 10 degrees in July).
We wandered through the town which was bigger than it seemed from the water. It was very parochial in its atmosphere and as we moved out of the shops area more people were saying "Good Morning" in passing. I loved the houses at right angles to the main road ( which passed through several name changes without a junction!) each group of which led down to its own slipway This was so that merchants could pull up their boats as close as possible to sell their wares to the people living there.
We wandered up through the little lanes and soon we could see over the rooftops of the houses below and out into the bay- the way we had come in on the boat the night before. The water was shimmering gloriously in the sun. Most of the houses at this level had a little garden and we noticed that daffodils and tulips were in full bloom here whereas they had finished at home about 3 weeks ago.We spent so long enjoying the view that by the time we made our way back to pick up our car we had to have a coffee stop.Quite a few people were buying ice-cream and yet again we couldn't believe our luck with the weather.
We went Skara Brae - this was very interesting. The museum attendant at house number 7(who clearly came to work not expecting the weather to last as she was wrapped up well)said that there are often fulmars in House no. 7 in the morning and they are totally unable to get out by themselves. This is even though it has no roof. She said that she catches them and pushes them out of the window aka the hole facing the sea.It made me wonder what qualities they seek in Historic Scotland when you do a job intereview!
After Skara Brae we visited Skaill House on whose land Skara Brae is. It seems that a violent storm in the 1800 uncovered Skara Brae overnight.
Skaill House has been restored but is not open in winter and we were just lucky that 30th April counts as summer on Orkney. This was the home of the Laird. I was entranced by this house. It was very peaceful,no wind noise, lovely location(to include the World Heritage Site at the bottom of the garden) and a very welcoming feel to it. Out of the windows you could see a glorious day in a fabulous location by the sea.
They had the dinner service from Captain Cook's voyages and this particularly interested me because both my daughters had studied Captain Cook in school. There were lots of Japanese silks on the walls and photographs showing an earlier Laird whilst on a journey in Japan.
In the cosy library was a large picture of a young boy who was the son of the previous Laird. He had been killed whilst home from Eton trying to break in a colt. At the side of the picture was a tribute to him from one of the members of staff in Eton which moved me beyond. We were told that the Laird and his wife had with his death lost their only son. It was only when I went upstairs that I found out that they also had a daughter which put into context the importance attributed to having a son and heir.
Upstairs was the room in which the widow of the last Laird had spent many years- it said she lived there alone and didn't leave her room for some time. To imagine being there alone , elderly and ill in the depths of winter with wild gales blowing around left me admiring the spirit of those who had lived there.
I spent so long in this house that everyone else left me and I only found them in the cafe /visitor centre. This was nice!3 of us had the Cullen Skink and I had the Orkney cheese with biscuits. This was a slab of about 4 ozs of cheese with plum chutney and help yourself biscuits. After I had ordered it I read the menu and saw they had a platter of local seafood but it was too late by then. None of us regretted anything and it all disappeared. It always amuses me when waitresses approach and ask if we've finished. The plates are always clean and there's no more we could eat!
I've been really pleased in recent years to see how museums and galeries are providing top class food to tourists- this was another.
We went for a walk on the beach and by now the sun was so strong that my daughter's freckles came out and together with the wind effect she ended up getting her face sunburnt.
We then stopped in the little church across the bay- once more just stopping and listening to the silence and comparing it with what it must be like usually. The church had received a lot of funding (we noticed quite a bit of this) and had been restored. In the graveyard was a memorial to the Laird's son.
That morning we had booked a visit to Maes Howe so we moved on there by 4pm. On the way we passed the Ring of Brodgar and stopped at the Steness Stones.
We made our way along the footpath to Maes Howe and noticed that there were cows in the fenced off fields to both sides.On the left was a field with a massive bull-he was a magnificent specimen, and probably about 20 cows and a number of calves. The bull was so well built that he lumbered about chasing after the cows. By the time we left he had had his evil way with at least three of them! We then realised that the cows in the field on the right were probably yesterday's conquests and were being given a day to get over it!
We had a guide to the cairn and to get in you have to bend fairly low and walk in that manner for about 10 metres.One gentleman who was older was not able to reach the end of the tunnel and dropped to his knees. This meant that everyone else coming behind him had to wait doubled up until he was able to get up again. Just a warning to anyone who may have suppleness issues as you weren't warned about this before we started.
We were given an outline of all that is known about Maes Howe and told that on Midsummer the sun rises right into the entrance and illuminates the opposite wall. This was interesting.
Feeling tired by now we headed back to Stromness. My husband and I went for a drink in the Ferry Inn as he had read the menu and we thought that we might eat there that night.The positive thing about it was that they sell pear cider which I had developed a liking for the night before in the Stromness Hotel. However the bar itself smelt and we left after one drink and didn't eat there after all. I understand that this may be changing hands and so could become more pleasant.
That night then we ate in the Royal. On the way we passed the Piddy Chippy which was parked on the quay and had a long queue outside it.The next day there was a different one there! They must have to bid for the right to sell on particular nights.
We popped into the Flattie bar of the Stromness Hotel for a drink on the way. There was a Japanese couple standing at the bar drinking. My husband commented that it looked as thought their guidebook had said that this is what you do in British Pubs!
In the Royal I had deep-fried Grimbister cheese with plum chutney(they are big on plum chutney here) then local trout -very nice . I can't remember what everyone else had as by now we'd shared a bottle of wine as well.
Back to the B&B. The youngsters were disturbed again in the night by people leaving the pubs but once more we heard nothing.

caroline_edinburgh

Great stuff, Frances, keep it coming !

"For years my husband had been refusing to go because he said it could be 10 degrees in July" - well, we did have 10 degrees in June and actually felt colder due to the (north) wind chill factor and horizontal rain !!

Your comment on the attendant at Skara Brae being wrapped up as if expecting worse weather made me smile remembering our trip to the Ring of Brodgar. We turned up for the free Ranger's guided walk on another foul day : when she arrived she was surprised to find anyone waiting for her and had told her husband she expected to be straight back ! There were 6 or 7 of us and we ended up all huddling together on the leeward side of one of the stones while listening to her

Frances

Sunday dawned as another glorious day-I'm sure by now that it must always be like this! We packed up and set off for the Brough of Birsay. We'd misunderstood the guidebook to say we could only cross to the island in June July August and September but this wasn't correct. These months are the only time you can get access to the site itself but you can cross to the island whenever the tide is low. It was just going out as we arrived so we decided to walk along the beach to the Earl's Palace in Birsay. There was no entrance fee and we had a wander around. Shortly afterwards we sought out the public toilet in this tiny hamlet and found (not for the first time) that the most remote toilet was open clean and had hot water! When we arrived back at the car there was a takeaway van so we all had bacon butties sitting on the grass overlooking the Brough. A newspaper cutting on the van announced that they were award winning and had picked up another award just the night before. The cakes looked very good too!
Heading for Kirkwall we now travelled towards Evie. We were all astonished by the lushness (is there such a word) of this island. The land looked like excellent farming country , rolling fields and the healthiest cattle- in general black.Why I expected it to be barren I've no idea. It is no wonder that so much is made of local food and I wonder to what extent Orkney could actually be self-sufficient in food if push came to shove.
At Evie we headed down to the beach. My daughter was now driving and my husband who owns and loves his car was getting more and more concerned each time it grounded so he made us all get out and walk. I was more concerned seeing her drive off in the car! I wondered if we'd ever see it again!
It was brilliantly sunny but windy on the beach but by lying down we were out of the wind. I even dozed off for a short while. Guess what-yes more sunburn!
At Kirkwall we easily found our Hotel -The Shore. This was also run by the same people who ran the Harbourside in Stromness.
It had had a complete refit and was very swish- leather headboard and chairs and very comfy bed.The bar area was phenomenally noisy but we were told this was the remnant of a rugby-sevens tournament which would disappear when the rugby club opened at 7pm. It was only later that we discovered that the tournament had been the day before -and it was still noisy!
We wandered out into the streets and managed to buy a copy of the paper and saw the Royal Wedding photos. I love the one of the little bridesmaid covering her ears on the balcony!
We found the cathedral easily - not difficult as it so large. I liked the feel of this and the pride in its connections with Norway.We dawdled a bit in the sidestreets but it was generally quiet and we could see that there weren't going to be too many places open for food on a Sunday night.
We returned to pick up our car and then drove via the Churchill Barriers to the Italian Chapel. This was lovely and obviously a tourist highlight as there were at 5pm a steady stream of visitors.
We also saw two little boys in the sea! It WAS glorious but the water was COLD.
On to St Margaret Hope where we found the Creel and had a look at the menu. We had considered staying here but thought it was too out of the way to be a good touring centre. It was a nice little village though.
We ate back in our hotel in Kirkwall- now really peaceful. I had a steak followed by an apple and almond tart- like all the food we had in Orkney it was very good.An early night for us but the youngsters went out to find an ATM . However on the way they passed two fights which broke out spontaneously and so decided to forego the ATM on the grounds of their own safety.
Up at 6.15 on Monday to get to the ferry by 7.15. The ferry is privately owned. It ran on time and had a cafe open- more bacon sandwiches!
We got off at Gil's Bay somewhat dreading the very lengthy journey along fairly small roads to start. Not to worry. At that time of day the traffic fairly sped along. We had got off the boat behind two juggernaut furniture removal vans from Orkney and thought we would be behind them for ever. We only caught up with one about 40 miles down the road and then it vanished from sight never to be seen again!
This was another beautiful day and I think we saw Scotland at its best.
My daughter and boyfriend had tickets on the train from Glasgow at 16.35. We dropped them at Motherwell at about 15.15 to catch a train into Glasgow. About an hour and a half later we received a text to say that the London train had stopped in Motherwell on its way out of Glasgow!
On we went . We stopped at Westmorland Farm Services for food and for the first time ever I was disappointed here. They have been doing really good salads with home cured ham and home made pies but are not now . I had Cumberland sausage which was dry. I can't wait for them to get back to making salads. Still we sat watching the ducks as we ate which is always peaceful.
606 miles and 15.5 hours after we got up we rolled back onto Anglesey.
Why should you go? It is probably the best weather I've ever had on holiday- people tell so many lies about it being cold and wet and windy- don't believe them!

historytraveler

Excellent report. Thanks. I'm hoping to return to Orkney next spring. So glad you had such a wonderful time and that the weather cooperated so well.

caroline_edinburgh

Frances, so glad you had such a good time. You must have taken the Welsh weather with you

Just in case you go again - or for anyone else looking for info - the tourist offices have the tide timetables for the Brough of Birsay.

sheila

Lovely report. Thanks

auldyins

Lovely to read your report and I'm delighted you enjoyed Orkney and were lucky with the weather. I did say you wouldn't need wellies. Looking forward to our annual 3 week holiday there.