Need Help with Lyon Arrondissements
#1
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
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Need Help with Lyon Arrondissements
I'm going to have 2.5 days in Lyon at the end of August and want to stay in Vieux Lyon. Can someone who knows Lyon tell me which arrondissements are in Vieux Lyon?
I'd also welcome any specific recommendations for hotels (two- or three-star is fine, at least a bit of charm, not too noisy, near a métro) and restaurants (my son is a major foodie and wants to sample the best of the bouchons).
I have guidebooks, of course, but was hoping to dig out some great Fodor's tips, but the search engine being as dismal as it is, I've only found a couple of posts about Lyon that have really useful information, and one was from a woman who stayed with relatives there, so no hotel info.
This is a whole new city in France for me, and I'd love to hear your tips!
I'd also welcome any specific recommendations for hotels (two- or three-star is fine, at least a bit of charm, not too noisy, near a métro) and restaurants (my son is a major foodie and wants to sample the best of the bouchons).
I have guidebooks, of course, but was hoping to dig out some great Fodor's tips, but the search engine being as dismal as it is, I've only found a couple of posts about Lyon that have really useful information, and one was from a woman who stayed with relatives there, so no hotel info.
This is a whole new city in France for me, and I'd love to hear your tips!
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,719
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Hello!
Vieux Lyon is in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon, which borders the Saône on the east and the 9th arrondissement to the north. The old town is quite small, and comprises the quarters of St Jean, St Paul and St Georges.
The 5th is quite a large arrondissement and much of the eastern and southern portion would not be of great interest to someone on a short visit.
Lyon city centre is very compact - and from the 1st or 2nd arrondissements it's only a short walk over one of the bridges to the old town.
Most of the 2 and 3 star hotels recommended on this board tend to be located on the Presqu'Ile rather than Vieux Lyon itself - in fact, apart from the Villa Florentine and the Cour des Loges (oh, and the youth hostel) I'm not sure I could name any other hotels in the area (although I'm sure there are some...)
As far as restaurants go, you'll be spoilt for choice wherever you stay in Lyon. There's a huge concentration on the Presqu'Ile and in Vieux Lyon (though many of the tourist traps in the old town should be avoided at all costs!).
The hotels that I have experience with in Lyon are as follows:
La Résidence: on rue Victor Hugo, a pedestrian shopping street running from Perrache Station to Place Bellecour, five minutes walk from Bellecour and Ampère metro stations. Good value 3 star, but some rooms much nicer than others! Nice street, but it gets crowded with shoppers at weekends.
Citadines Lyon Presqu'Ile - located on a pedestrian street near the Saône, a short walk from Cordeliers metro and not far from the old town. Very close to the touristy rue Mercière which is packed with restaurants of varying quality. My mother and aunt stayed in a spacious apartment last June, with bedroom, sofa bed, kitchenette, etc. Area is charming, but rooms are all fairly standard format.
Grand Hotel des Terreaux- investigated this hotel for my mother but haven't stayed there. Located near the Place des Terreaux, has a swimming pool I believe.
I lived in Lyon for over 2 years so if there's any other information I can help with, feel free to ask.
Vieux Lyon is in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon, which borders the Saône on the east and the 9th arrondissement to the north. The old town is quite small, and comprises the quarters of St Jean, St Paul and St Georges.
The 5th is quite a large arrondissement and much of the eastern and southern portion would not be of great interest to someone on a short visit.
Lyon city centre is very compact - and from the 1st or 2nd arrondissements it's only a short walk over one of the bridges to the old town.
Most of the 2 and 3 star hotels recommended on this board tend to be located on the Presqu'Ile rather than Vieux Lyon itself - in fact, apart from the Villa Florentine and the Cour des Loges (oh, and the youth hostel) I'm not sure I could name any other hotels in the area (although I'm sure there are some...)
As far as restaurants go, you'll be spoilt for choice wherever you stay in Lyon. There's a huge concentration on the Presqu'Ile and in Vieux Lyon (though many of the tourist traps in the old town should be avoided at all costs!).
The hotels that I have experience with in Lyon are as follows:
La Résidence: on rue Victor Hugo, a pedestrian shopping street running from Perrache Station to Place Bellecour, five minutes walk from Bellecour and Ampère metro stations. Good value 3 star, but some rooms much nicer than others! Nice street, but it gets crowded with shoppers at weekends.
Citadines Lyon Presqu'Ile - located on a pedestrian street near the Saône, a short walk from Cordeliers metro and not far from the old town. Very close to the touristy rue Mercière which is packed with restaurants of varying quality. My mother and aunt stayed in a spacious apartment last June, with bedroom, sofa bed, kitchenette, etc. Area is charming, but rooms are all fairly standard format.
Grand Hotel des Terreaux- investigated this hotel for my mother but haven't stayed there. Located near the Place des Terreaux, has a swimming pool I believe.
I lived in Lyon for over 2 years so if there's any other information I can help with, feel free to ask.
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
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Hi StCirq. And hanl nice to see you still posting here.
Most of Vieux Lyon is in the eastern quarter of the 5th: St Jean Cathedral, the Gallo-Roman Museum, Fourviere Basilica, the narrow old streets to wander, etc. The western 3/4 of the 5th became more modern and less interesting to me as I walked that way.
This site is a little clumsy but I like their maps. (I was surprised how long it took me to find a somewhat decent arrondissement map of Lyon on the web.) This is in French but that won't be a problem for you.
www.lyon.fr/vdl/sections/fr/arrondissements
1. From here click on the arrondissment you're interested in from the left side.
2. Next under the drop down of "tourisme découverte" select "votre arrondissement."
3. Scrolling down on this page you'll find a map to click that brings up a larger version of the area. You might have to enlarge the window to see the entire map.
For food
One street to the east of Place Bellecour is r. Marrionners. It's a pedestrian street with several restaurants. I've eaten at one of the Chabert & Fils restaurants. The one at number 11 r des Marrionners. I had a dish of tripe that had been roasted then made into a stew.
www.chabertrestaurant.fr
Just north of it is "Aux Trois Cochons." I know it's dedicated to pork, but I had a great rabbit roasted with a dijon mustard sauce.
A couple of yards north again I ate at Restaurant Marrionners. I loved the pike quenelles so much the first time I had the same thing again last year.
For hotels
I've stayed twice at Hotel Dubost next to the Perrache train station and liked it. 2 star, no charm, the inner courtyard rooms were quiet with little view. The street side ones were noisier.
Hotel Residence gets a lot of good press here.
www.hotel-la-residence.com
Most of Vieux Lyon is in the eastern quarter of the 5th: St Jean Cathedral, the Gallo-Roman Museum, Fourviere Basilica, the narrow old streets to wander, etc. The western 3/4 of the 5th became more modern and less interesting to me as I walked that way.
This site is a little clumsy but I like their maps. (I was surprised how long it took me to find a somewhat decent arrondissement map of Lyon on the web.) This is in French but that won't be a problem for you.
www.lyon.fr/vdl/sections/fr/arrondissements
1. From here click on the arrondissment you're interested in from the left side.
2. Next under the drop down of "tourisme découverte" select "votre arrondissement."
3. Scrolling down on this page you'll find a map to click that brings up a larger version of the area. You might have to enlarge the window to see the entire map.
For food
One street to the east of Place Bellecour is r. Marrionners. It's a pedestrian street with several restaurants. I've eaten at one of the Chabert & Fils restaurants. The one at number 11 r des Marrionners. I had a dish of tripe that had been roasted then made into a stew.
www.chabertrestaurant.fr
Just north of it is "Aux Trois Cochons." I know it's dedicated to pork, but I had a great rabbit roasted with a dijon mustard sauce.
A couple of yards north again I ate at Restaurant Marrionners. I loved the pike quenelles so much the first time I had the same thing again last year.
For hotels
I've stayed twice at Hotel Dubost next to the Perrache train station and liked it. 2 star, no charm, the inner courtyard rooms were quiet with little view. The street side ones were noisier.
Hotel Residence gets a lot of good press here.
www.hotel-la-residence.com
#4
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
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Thanks, hanl and indy, for the great information. After some further research, I see that my inclination to stay in Vieux Lyon was probably not the best idea.
I've just sent a fax to La Résidence to inquire about a room there. I think I'm probably going to want AC in late August in Lyon, and the hotel looks pretty nice.
The arrondissements map is great! Merci!
I've just sent a fax to La Résidence to inquire about a room there. I think I'm probably going to want AC in late August in Lyon, and the hotel looks pretty nice.
The arrondissements map is great! Merci!
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,719
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I think La Résidence is a good choice. My parents stayed there for a week a few years ago and enjoyed it, and I stayed there for a couple of nights about 4 years ago.
By the way, my comment about the 5th arrondissement should read "...much of the <i>western</i> and southern portion would not be of great interest..."
Indy, there haven't been a lot of posts about Lyon recently so I haven't had much to share on these boards lately!
We no longer live in Lyon (*sob*) - now living and working in Brussels.
By the way, my comment about the 5th arrondissement should read "...much of the <i>western</i> and southern portion would not be of great interest..."
Indy, there haven't been a lot of posts about Lyon recently so I haven't had much to share on these boards lately!
We no longer live in Lyon (*sob*) - now living and working in Brussels.
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 301
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StCirq,
Lyon is a foodie's Mecca and the options can be overwhelming...make sure you bring your Red Guide!
The only bouchons I can recommend are Le Merciere on rue Merciere and Le Meuniere on rue Neuve (lots of restaurants on both of these streets). It seems that the most famous bouchon is Cafe des Federations which is closed in August.
We had a memorable meal at Maison Villemanzy, overlooking the city from a perch in the 1er. The food was simple but very good, great view, packed house, noisy, everyone smiling, etc. It's owned by Jean-Paul Lacombe of Leon de Lyon fame. Take transport there (uphill) and walk back on a clear night.
I've had lunch at Le Nord (Paul Bocuse) on 2 different visits; nice place, great food, great service, tables on the street, reasonable prices. Excellent poulet a la creme w/ basmati and saucisson in brioche.
Christian Tetedoie-1 Michelin star (perhaps the least expensive starred restaurant in the city). Located in the 5er. Food and service were very good but the place is a bit "stuffy."
We've only stayed at Cour des Loges and love it. Vieux Lyon is beautiful and we enjoy walking "home" there at night. However, we do most of our dining in other areas of the city. The restaurants in Vieux Lyon seem to be largely touristy cafes and "fake" bouchons (except the dining rooms in Cour des Loges, La Tour Rose, and Villa Florentine).
There is a great daily market on the Saone just west of Pl. Bellecour. The market at Les Halles is incredible and an easy metro from the city center.
Lyon is one of my favorite cities. I hope you have a great trip.
j.
Lyon is a foodie's Mecca and the options can be overwhelming...make sure you bring your Red Guide!
The only bouchons I can recommend are Le Merciere on rue Merciere and Le Meuniere on rue Neuve (lots of restaurants on both of these streets). It seems that the most famous bouchon is Cafe des Federations which is closed in August.
We had a memorable meal at Maison Villemanzy, overlooking the city from a perch in the 1er. The food was simple but very good, great view, packed house, noisy, everyone smiling, etc. It's owned by Jean-Paul Lacombe of Leon de Lyon fame. Take transport there (uphill) and walk back on a clear night.
I've had lunch at Le Nord (Paul Bocuse) on 2 different visits; nice place, great food, great service, tables on the street, reasonable prices. Excellent poulet a la creme w/ basmati and saucisson in brioche.
Christian Tetedoie-1 Michelin star (perhaps the least expensive starred restaurant in the city). Located in the 5er. Food and service were very good but the place is a bit "stuffy."
We've only stayed at Cour des Loges and love it. Vieux Lyon is beautiful and we enjoy walking "home" there at night. However, we do most of our dining in other areas of the city. The restaurants in Vieux Lyon seem to be largely touristy cafes and "fake" bouchons (except the dining rooms in Cour des Loges, La Tour Rose, and Villa Florentine).
There is a great daily market on the Saone just west of Pl. Bellecour. The market at Les Halles is incredible and an easy metro from the city center.
Lyon is one of my favorite cities. I hope you have a great trip.
j.



