Lyon - Gare de Lyon/Perrache

Old Sep 8th, 2003, 09:24 AM
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Lyon - Gare de Lyon/Perrache

Please forgive me if I have asked this question before, but I am at that panic stage where I am trying to nail down all the little details of my France trip (only 17 more days!!). Can I walk from the train station, Gare de Lyon/Perrache to my hotel, Le Residence, 18, Rue Victor Hugo. From the map on their web page it looks within walking distance. Thanks.
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Old Sep 8th, 2003, 09:59 AM
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Yes.

You go north out of Perrache and keep walking. You'll go through the middle of Place Carnot onto r. Victor Hugo. It's a couple hundred yards at most to La Residence which will be on your left. I walked several times from my hotel at Place Carnot to Place Bellecour and thought it a very pleasant stroll. My 66 year old Dad made it quite easily too.

Make sure you pause in the train station lobby to admire the screaming 70's colored flourescent light chandelier.
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Old Sep 8th, 2003, 10:01 AM
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Hi Barb,

On one of my visits to Lyon, I stayed once at Hotel LA Residence. It certainly was a walking distance to me because I always had small luggage. I'd say less than 10 minutes. You will have to cross a park "Place Carnot" then on to Rue Victor-Hugo. On the street the hotel is rather closer to Place Belcourt than to Place Carnot.

It amused me to find a bathroom(a bath tub and wash basin) and WC separately in my room. Maybe it's because the place used to be an apartment building.

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Old Sep 8th, 2003, 10:15 AM
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Barb, Have fun in Lyon! One of my favorite European cities.
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Old Sep 8th, 2003, 10:22 AM
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You guys are the best, merci boucoup!!
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Old Sep 8th, 2003, 10:33 AM
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Hi Barb,

Thought I'd add a bit more. The SNCF TGV trains are in the south part of the Perrache station. You walk up from the platforms to the building that connects all the platforms. If you walk a few steps to the end and there's a staircase and escalators leading directly out onto the street, you're looking at the south (wrong for you) entrance. You need to walk the other way into the SNCF lobby. Keep going through the lobby onto the covered walkway that connects to the north part of the train station. The north part is where the tram and subway connections are located. Walk through this part of the train station, past the screaming chandelier and get on the plexi-glass covered escalator. This will take you back down to street level and into Place Carnot.

I agree with Grasshopper, Lyon is a fantastic city. I was in Lyon this past April and had an amazing time. Enjoy yourself and make sure you ask anything else that you feel like.

De rien.
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Old Sep 8th, 2003, 11:41 AM
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Indytravel's directions are spot-on. Perrache station can feel a little confusing when you arrive (the layout is a little odd) so don't worry if you feel a bit disorientated! Once you get out of the station you'll enjoy your walk to the hotel. Enjoy Lyon!
Feel free to ask if you have any other questions on the city (or need any restaurant rec's!!)
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:19 AM
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I will only be there for 2 nights, 1-1/2 days, so I would love to get some restaurant recs so I don't waste my precious time looking for a restaurant and maybe not finding a good one. I am on a budget, so I would like to find one for around 20-30 Euro, including wine. Also, not a wine snob, so house wine is ok w/me. Any suggestions?
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:32 AM
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Also, what are the must sees and how can I fit these into my short time frame.
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:38 AM
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Absolutely go into Vieux (old) Lyon. It's so charming and takes you back in time. I would take the funicular up to the Cathedral and take in the view from on the hill, then walk down past the Roman Amphitheater. The road will take you back into Vieux Lyon. The restaurants there (outside cafes) are so good. Be sure to try the Salade Lyonnaise. It's my favorite. But nothing you eat there will be bad. And it should be easy to eat in your budget.
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:42 AM
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Rue des Marrionners is not far from your hotel. If you walk to Place Bellecour, make a right (east) then cross over the street, r. Marrioners is the next street on your left. It's a mostly pedestrian street that goes north from there for a couple of blocks. Basically it runs parallel to east edge of Place Bellecour.

As you walk up the street I ate at the first restaurant on the right which is on the corner. I don't remember it's name. The next restaurant on the right was a Chabert & Fils restaurant, the original one of their three. Lastly I ate a couple of more restaurants up on the right at Marrioners. I don't know what was wrong with the left side of the street.

All three were very good. I believe the set menus were in the 12 to 30 euro range. The gentleman next to me at Marrioners had the plat du jour for lunch which was around 10euros. It looked excellent. I had the quenelles in creamy fish sauce because it was my first Lyon meal and I'd read about them being a traditional dish. It too was excellent. San Marcillon cheese was offered for the cheese course. I'm a big cheese fan and was surprised that I didn't really care for San Marcillon. It wasn't terrible, it's just not my favorite.

If you want a big, high ceiling, boisterous brasserie in the Belle Epoque style, I ate at Brasserie Georges. It's to the east of the Perrache train station on the south side of the tracks. You need to get between the north & south parts of the train station and head to the east about a block. They had very good brasserie food. The plates of saurkraut and sausage looked excellent. I had something more French, but don't recall exactly what it was. It's not terribly expensive either. You'll see lots of baked Alaska hauled around as it's a signature dish for them.

At the tourist office in the southeast corner of Place Bellecour, I bought all day transportation passes for about 4 euros. I'm sure you can buy them at metro stops too. My Dad and I used them to ride the funicular up to the cathedral. Unfortunately the other funicular right next to it that goes to the Roman ruins was being repaired. Make sure you go up to the cathedral for the view. It was a clear day in April and we could see the snow on the Alps in the distance. Right next to the cathedral was a little café. We sat there, had a drink and continued to enjoy the view. It was a bit pricier drink, but ahhhh the view.
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:49 AM
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Well, with wonderful Cotes du Rhone wines, and access to exceptional produce, dairy and meat, Lyon's restaurants are highly regarded. On a Saturday night (we forgot it was Saturday) with NO reservation (we should know better) we lucked into a table near the kitchen at Les Adrets. It turned out to be a good spot, as it was fun to watch the activity in the kitchen through a big glass window. Steve had the best choice of the night...a brochet of Lapin (rabbit). Dinner for 2 with 3 courses, a bottle of wine and a bottle of water was about 90Euro. This is in the "old town" area. DO make a reservation wherever you plan to eat, especially if it is a weekend, so you won't be disappointed and left to roam the streets for someplace that will squeeze you in.

Address:
30 rue de Boeuf

Phone:
04 78 38 24 30

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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 10:00 AM
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Oh, my mouth is watering just thinking about all the great food - can't wait!!
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 05:48 PM
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If you're only in Lyon for a day and a half you're gonna regret it.

If the weather is pretty definitely see the cathedral on the hill and some of the Roman ruins. In Old Lyon, the St Jean church is very pretty. Try to stop on an hour so you can see their very old clock chime.

If the weather is lousy you might consider seeing the Musee des Beaux Arts at place Terreuax. It's France's second largest and supposed to be very nice. I didn't go, my Dad isn't much of an art museum person.

Either way with the weather consider a tour of the traboules if you're up for it. It's a tour of the passages that the weavers used to get around Lyon. Lots of stairs which is why I didn't go, my Dad can't take a lot of stairs. The tourist office at Place Bellecour should be able to get you going with a real tour or at least a map.

Food-wise you should try "cervelle de canut" meaning brains of the weaver. OK, it really isn't their brains but what most of them lived off of while working. It is a bit odd, sort of like eating potato chip dip. Try "le communard" it's beaujolais wine mixed with kir. It's sweet for my tastes but interesting nonetheless.
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 07:46 PM
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Here's a link to the Chabert family of 3 restaurants. All are on the r. Marronniers.

www.chabertrestaurant.com/page1.html
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:04 PM
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As you can probably tell, you'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants in Lyon! I agree that you should try out one of Indytravel's recommendations on the rue des Maronniers one evening, but I think you'd also enjoy strolling along the rue Mercière one evening too - it's another pedestrian street full of restaurants, not far from Place Bellecour (it snakes up from north-west corner of Place des jacobins), and it's a pretty, charming street (and yes, it can be busy, even touristy, but don't let that put you off!).

Two places that I regularly eat at on Rue Mercière are Bleu de Toi (for lunch) - a cheap and cheerful place that serves big pots of mussels or grilled tuna steaks with salad and all the fries you can eat, for around 11 euros. It often gets busy but it's worth waiting for a table - turnover is pretty fast.
My other recommendation along this street is the Bouchon aux Vins. It's part of a group called the "Bistrots des Cuisiniers", the brainchild of top LYon chef Jean-Paul Lacombe, and the aim is to offer good food prepared by well-trained chefs at affordable prices. You will get a 3 course menu for around 22 euros, and if you opt for a "pot" (46cl) of wine, you'll easily stay within your budget. The atmosphere is very pleasant, in an old building with stone vaults and wooden beams, and a nice terrace on the street. And the bathrooms must be seen to be believed!!

If you find yourself strolling through the old town at mealtime, you'll find you'
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Old Sep 9th, 2003, 09:20 PM
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aarg, posted that by mistake before I was finished!!
Anyway, in the Old town are lots of (mainly tourist oriented) restaurants, some of which are a lot better than others. Of the places I've tried, I'd recommend the Auberge Rabelais, at the cathedral end of rue St Jean, and Les Ventres Jaunes or le Comptoir Du Boeuf on the Place Neuve St Jean. All of them offer a variety of set menus.
You'll no doubt see menu items like fromage blanc à la crème (what in the UK we'd call fromage frais) served with cream and sugar, often offered instead of a cheese course, the Cervelle des Canuts (as Indytravel mentioned) which is fromage frais with garlic and herbs, quenelle, which is a rich dumpling often made with pike (fish) and served with sauce aux crustacées (a kind of crayfish bisque sauce).

Uhoh's right that usually you need to have reservations to be sure of getting a table at dinner, but if you don't reserve then make sure you arrive at the restaurant a little before 8pm, as there'll probably be room.

As for things to see, the other posters have pretty much covered everything! The Roman amphitheatres are a must, as is the Old Town (every time you see a plaque with "Memoire de Lyon" on it, stop and read it - it may well indicate the entrance to a traboule, and you'll get a nice mini-history lesson into the bargain), the basilica at Fourvière (take the funicular - don't walk up unless you're very fit!), St Jean cathedral (NB it's closed over lunchtime). If you have time, take a boat trip on the Saone. Trips are run by a company called Navig'inter and leave from the Quai des Celestins, just by the footbridge "passerelle du palais de justice". Also, make sure you stop at the Place des Terreaux for a drink or coffee, and then stroll down the rue de la République or rue Edouard Herriot for a spot of (real or) window shopping.
You'll love Lyon.
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