Gariem

Waldo, I can't find via Petrarca on my map of Naples. Can you tell me which Bus to take to get to that splendid vista you mentioned on this website? I will be in Naples early November. Thanks.

Waldo

I believe you have to take Bus No. 181 at Piazza Sannizarro to get to Via Petrarca. However, I don't recall which bus you have to take from Piazza Garibaldi (which is the way I go) to get to Piazza Sannizarro. Off the top of my head I would say Bus No.132, but I'm probably wrong. However, you will have no trouble asking at the bus terminal, since it is a pretty popular route. I would also get off the bus at the best viewing area (you will have no problem determining that, because once you get on Via Petrarca, they are all great viewing areas. After getting your fill (if possible) of that heavenly sight, I would get back on a later bus, going the same way, to the very end of Via Petrarca, where it is now in the woods. Get off the bus and walk down to MARECHIARRE. It's a pretty steep walk, because you're going down to the sea level from Via Petrarca, which is elevated from the sea. From Marechiarre, you will get pretty much the same view as from Via Petrarca, but from the sea level. It is also to die for. (I'm getting the chills just thinking about these). The bad thing is that when you gotta go back, you have to walk up that incline. It's much easier going down.
Now about the Naples map-- Find the Posillipo area on the map. It's probably on the lower left area of the Naples map. You will see Via Posillipo on the map, going adjacent to the water. The map cannot show elevation, but directly above Via Posillipo you will see Via Petrarca. They run almost parallel, but Via Petrarca is elevated, on the side of the mountain, whereas Via Posillipo is at sea level. A ride along Via Posillipo is also beautiful, but not as lovely as Petrarca. Incidentally, if you want some great restaurants, one is at the foot of Marechiarre, and the name is La Finestra Di Marechiarre, like the famous Neopolitan song. The song refers to the moon rising from that spot."Quando 'spunta la luna a Marechiarre---" and so on. The other great restaurant is Guissepone a Mare, which is just off Via Posillipo. Both restaurants have been around for many years, testifying to their quality. The food is terrific and the views are tremendous, BUT THEY AIN"T CHEAP.
HAVE FUN!!

Waldo

When I mentioned Piazza Sannizarro, I recalled a very funny incident which happened to me there last year. This is a typical Naples story. It can only happen in Napoli. My wife was born in the US, but spent her first twenty years in Naples. We live in Maryland. She has five sisters and three brothers, all Neopolitans. We go there a couple of times a year. They all call her "L'Americana". Well one saturday night, my brother in law took me out to eat pizza at his favorite place in Piazza Sannizarro. Picture Piazza Sannizarro as a semi circle, lined with restaurants on the sidewalk, and a traffic circle in the street. The restaurants all fan out onto the street with their outdoor tables. We went to my brother in law's favorite place and it was mobbed. No trouble said the maitre d. He PUT US ON A TABLE WAY OUT IN THE STREET AND MY SEAT WAS STRADDLING THE TROLLEY TRACKS! I told him he was NUTS and I wouldn't sit there. He said not to worry. So there I was on the trolley tracks, eating pizza. When the trolley came, DING, DING, I moved my chair, let the trolley go by, put my chair back, and proceeded to eat my pizza. This happened a few times, and it was hilareous! Only in Naples! I have several of these Napoli only stories.

Gariem

Thank you so much for your suggestions, Waldo. Unfortunately my map isn't detailed enough, but now I know exactly where you mean for those views. Since you have been to Naples so often, may I ask a few more questions? I will be there for one week and speak some Italian, but much of my time will be taken up with attending a clasical multi-venue music festival.
If I can only take one underground tour, which one should it be? There are a number of catacombs (San Gennaro and Severo come to mind), but also "Napoli Sotterraneo," which I don't believe is catacombs. What is your vote for the best pizza place? I love seafood. Da Dora is mentioned in every guide book. Do you know it? Is it very touristy? I will visit the Archeological and Capodimonte Museums, but from what I read I should also make time for the Certosa di San Martino. I think I am more interested in these than the Palazzo Reale or Castello Nuovo. Any thoughts? Finally, the churches. I must get to the Capella San Severo and the Duomo, but how to choose among so many others? (Santa Chiara, Gesu Nuovo, etc.)
Favorite cafe? Gambrinus? Or some other jewel. Any other personal haunts/ recommendations are much appreciated. I have been to the Amalfi Coast several times, but never to Naples. For background info I have just read Jordan Lancaster's "In the Shadow of Vesuvius - A Cultural History of Naples" (2005), very interesting. Thanks again!

Waldo

The catacombs of San Gennaro are very interesting. They make a good one day tour. Perhaps this sounds like damnation by faint praise, but I enjoyed them very much, but I was not Ga-Ga over them. Now about one of my favorite topics--PIZZA! The best pizza in the WORLD, as far as I'm concerned, is at a neighborhood place called TUTINO's. The natives call it "n'coppa e mura", which means "on the walls". In the old days, the old area of Naples was surrounded by a huge wall. There are four gates, still in existence, as entrances to the wall. Porta Nolana, Porta Alba, Porta Capuana, and I forget the fourth. The pizza place, Tutino's is very close to Porta Nolana. The only way I can describe how to get there is to go to Piazza Garibaldi. At the end of the Piazza is a huge statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi (who else?). This is right on Corso Garibaldi. You go to the statue, and look down Corso Garibaldi towards the water. Walk down towards the water, and a few hundred feet later, you will see a large arch. This is Porta Nolana. Walk towards the Porta, and one very short block BEFORE going under the arch, make a left turn. Walk a few hundred feet and look up to the second story. You will see a sign "Tutino's". Go up a flight of stairs and enjoy Pizza as it should be made. It's fantastic. Additionally, the place has a great atmosphere. If you have ever heard of Toto, the great Italian comic, this place is covered with tributes to him. There is a large painting on the far wall, showing Toto, Massimo Troisi, the guy that was the star of "Il Postino", Eduardo Di Felipe, the Italian playwrite and actor, and some other guy who I can't recall. If you happen to see the owner of the place, or ask for him, mention that you were sent by The American. He knows me well. Everytime I go there, he yells "L'Americano sta cha!", the American is here. He has an unconditional love for Americans. During WWII, his family was destroyed by the Nazis, and he was very young. He was "adopted" by four American GIs, and he lived with them throughout their stay in Naples. He has visited all four in the US after the war, in Michigan, Alabama, North Dakota and New York. He is nuts about the USA (what a change nowadays). He speaks a great and funny English, with a crazy accent. As for other pizza, Ciro's Trianon, nearby is also good, but not as good as Tutino's. You must go see the Duomo. I'm not crazy about spending a lot of time in Italy to go see churches, but this one is great. It's full of interest and it will be very enjoyable. Near the Duomo is Spaccanapoli. Once you get on this street, you can see in one shot, Gesu Nuovo, Santa Chiarra, and Capella San Severo. They are very close to one another. One thing that mystifies me is why people put up so many churches, all of the same religion, right next to each other. I guess they all had their own clubs. San Severo is not to be missed. The sculpure of The Veiled Christ is unbelievable. I can't realize how a guy could make a 3D sculpture in marble. Also right next to the sculpture is another showing a fish net, all sculpted in one piece of marble. Gambrinus is my favorite hangout in Naples. The atmosphere is electric, even if you just sit and have an espresso and pastry. You just sit therte, preferably outside, if you can get a table, and just people watch. That reminds me of another favorite place of mine---MAC DONALD'S, believe it or not!!! You go from Gambrinus, up Via Roma, or Via Toledo, take your choice of names, until you get to Piazza Dante. Right at the Piazza is a Mac Donald's. Order something, whatever, and go upstairs to their second floor. One wall of the second story is all window. Grab a seat at the window, and you have a spectacular view of Piazza Dante, Porta Alba, the University of Napoli, all the book stores ther, all the young students, and all the hectic traffic at and around the Piazza. A real crazy scene! I can sit there for hours watching Neapolitan life going by. My wife thinks I'm nuts, but I love it. Besides, I'm a dirty old man, and those lovely coeds at the University are a sight to behold. Finally, you must take a ride up to San Martino. It's the highst point in Naples, and from therer, you can get a terrific view of Naples and all its environs. You can see Capri, Sorrento, Vesuvius, even Diamond Head??.

Gariem

Waldo, your stories are most amusing! I will print your commentary and bring it with me. Need to question you on the pizza joint selection. I'm a little queasy near the train station on my own - is it thin crust? (The pizza, not the train station). Have you been to Ciro a Santa Brigida, Da Michele, or Da Ettore? They all get plenty of good press and are in more attractive areas, shall we say. Your GI story reminded me of another book I have recently read in preparation for the trip: Norman Lewis's memoir "Naples '44: an Intelligence Officer in the Italian Labyrinth." If you haven't read it, it's a must. I confess I only go to the churches for the art, and some of the best Italian art is found in churches! Spaccanapoli has always been near the top of my list, so I will cover several churches in one interesting walk.
If I find the time I will write a trip review when I get back. It's tough with work commitments. If you think of any other "musts", please let me know. I will check this message board frequently before I leave. Ciao for now!!
P.S. I found via Petrarca on a Michelin map. On my way.

Waldo

I've been to many pizza joints in Naples, and I believe Tutino's is far and away the best. Don't be afraid of so called undesirable ares in Naples. Just mind you own business and things will be OK. I've been going to Naples a couple of times a year since 1987, and I have never been close to a bad situation. All those pizza places are good, but like Yogi Berra once said, all comic books are good, some are gooder than the others. I have hardly ever eaten a pizza that I didn't like.

AnnMarie_C

Excuse me for butting in...Waldo, can you rec a hotel in Naples? We'll be there in December and currently have ressies at the Mariott (Renaissance Hotel Naples Mediterraneo) but am considering moving to the Constantinopoli 104. Thoughts? Suggestions?? The views from the Mariott look amazing but am tempted by what I've read about the 104.

Gariem

Annmarie, I too am tempted by the Costantinopoli 104 from its location and depiction. It has some good reviews here and at www.tripadvisor.com. But I was able to get a rate of EUR 170/nt for a twin with a sea view at the Excelsior, which I couldn't pass up. I was actually thinking of splitting my stay between the waterfront and the centro storico, since I have a full week. Waldo, (or anyone else) what do you think of that idea? Thanks.

AnnMarie_C

Gariem, that is a great deal, no? I looked at the Excelsior but did not find a rate that low. The Mariott is a good deal at 100 euros/night but I don't know...I hear the 104 calling my name. Deciding where to stay is one of those things I tend to over think.

Waldo's pizza tale was a hoot--after reading his accounts I am even more excited to experience Naples.

I hope you enjoy a wonderful trip--will you write a trip report? Thanks, again, for letting me butt in!

Gariem

AnnMarie, I'm with you on the over-planning, but I consider the planning process part of the trip, so I am always planning, reading, and dreaming about my next trip! About the Excelsior, I booked my room way back in February on the hotel website. I think that's why I was able to get such a good rate. When exactly will you be in Naples? I think you said December. Is it your first visit? I am there the first week of November, so I will try to write a trip report. Your Mariott rate is excellent in my view, but that 104 sure has a lot of charm! Plus it's close to Spaccanapoli, which is sure to be a highlight of our trips.

AnnMarie_C

Hi Gariem,

This is our first trip to Italy--we were scheduled to go last year but had to cancel that trip. We'll be in Rome 7 days before heading to Naples for 4, December 11-21.

Is Naples part of a larger trip? Are you planning to explore beyond the city? We plan to visit Pompeii and if there's time Paestum. So much to see and do but never enough time.

Planning is half the fun, imo! I love all the reading, studying of maps, etc., and maybe over do it a bit but I'd rather have too much info than not enough.

No pressure on the trip report! Just curious. Enjoy your planning as well as a wonderful trip!

Gariem

AM, this time I'm just going to Naples, primarily for a Music Festival. I have been to Italy at least 15 times (my favorite country on earth), including the Amalfi coast twice, tho' not Paestum. Visited Pompeii, climbed to the top of Vesuvius, and have stayed in both Amalfi (3 nts.) and Positano (2 nts.) Spectacular area. So now it's time to get "down and dirty" and see Naples. I am reading another book which I am loving - "Falling Palace: A Romance of Naples" by Dan Hofstadter. Check this thread for other titles. My only concern with such a short trip is getting over jet lag so I can get moving. I live in Houston, so it will be a long haul. Where are you flying from, may I ask?

AnnMarie_C

Oh, how funny...we currently live in San Antonio. DH spent a year in Houston--we love it there! Spent a lot of time in the Museum District.

You've been to Italy at least 15 times? Good for you!

Jet-lag, ugh! On arrival day I feel as though I'm in a dream state but usually recover the next day.

Given the short amount of time we have in Naples I wonder if we'll get to Paestum, it's in my mind to get there but with so much to see in Naples we may have to save it for another time.

Thanks for the book rec! Will check it out. Would love to hear more about the music festival!

Where's Waldo?!?

Waldo

I've never stayed in a hotel in Naples, always freeloading on my wife's family, but in my daily walks along Corso Emmanuele, known to Neapolitans as "Il Retefilo", which means "the long line", (I have no inkling why), I am impressed with the location and the lobby of the Mediterraneo. It's in a very interesting area, and it looks like the type of hotel in which I would like to stay. In my walks, I invariably end up at the Galleria and the Palazzo Reale/San Carlo complex at the Piazza Plebiscito. I love it there. At the end of the walkway in front of San Carlo, is a lovely little park, with benches that look out at the Bay of Naples. Even on cold wintry days, the benches are nice and warm, sitting in the bright sun. Gambrinus is also right in that area. Another "funny" story--When the Galleria was built in the 19th century, not one life was lost building it. Installing the all glass roof was perilous, but was accomplished without incident. The day the Galleria was opened, however, the architect that designed and was responsible for the construction, was inspecting the glass roof. The poor guy fell to his death. As you might notice, I love to tell stories about Naples. Outside of New York, I think it's my favorite city. I have lots of Napoli stories to draw on.

yipper

A few years ago I was in Naples for such a short time. I always wanted to go back and spend more time there and this discussion has Naples calling me. Gariem please write a trip report when you return.

Enjoy, Yipper

Holly_uncasdewar

Waldo - please post some more of those Naples stories. I'm sure I'm not the only one enjoying them.

Gariem

AM, I was at the Houston GTG last week. Too bad you weren't there. I live three blocks from the Museum of Fine Arts in Southampton. Have been to San Antonio a few times.
Yipper, I will try to write a trip report after I get back from Naples.
Waldo, the more Naples stories, the better. I'm lovin' them

AnnMarie_C

Gariem, now I'm even more sorry I missed the GTG! DH lived just off Kirby near the University Village (I commuted on weekends). We loved life inside the loop! The Museum of Art is outstanding and I am a big fan of the Contemporary Arts Museum as well. *sigh* Color me green with envy.

Waldo, thank you for the feedback. I agree with the others and cannot get enough of your stories!

Waldo

If you will look up an earlier posting, "Naples San Carlo Tour", you will see another of my stories on Naples. Honestly, these are all true. I also have more that I will post soon.