"Moseying" down the Mosel, and Riding the Rhein!
Feb 23rd, 2007 | 02:25 PM
#1
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Joined: Jun 2004
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"Moseying" down the Mosel, and Riding the Rhein!
What a joy of a trip!
I did quite a bit of this same trip many years ago, but repeated it with my mother and two friends this week.
This area is so full of picturesque towns and castles on hilltops, that even with one day, if you are within 100 km., try to do a small part of either river.
We flew into HHN; Frankfurt Hahn, which is just next to the Mosel itself.
This old U.S, military base is surrounded by numerous clean and simple bed and breakfasts (gasthofs)in the outlaying villages. Most of them have a free shuttle to the airport ( those within a few kms).
We stayed at a chef´s b+b, Matthias Klein, in Sohren. The breakfast was great, with blinis, fresh jams, breads, eggs, meats, and peeled pink grapefruit and oranges among other yummy things. It is called Zum Felsenkeller.
Our room was large, small, immaculate bathroom, with upscale corian countertop, and satellite t.v. . As at most places, it was about 40 euros/person for bed and breakfast including tax.
The last night we stayed across the street, as he was full, at Victoria Hotel.It was also immaculate and has friendly staff.
The winter is obviously not the most attractive time to go, especially since it has not snowed for awhile.. and you have the problem that 80 % of the places (including restaurants) are closed. Also, it was carnival week, and we did not find an open tourist office for two full days!
But on the other hand, we had a place to park everywhere.. no waits to be served.. and our choice of the few open places. We are anxious to come back during the spring.
I won´t bore you with more details of the quaint towns, but do encourage you to visit this fine area. Unless you have a week, you will need to be selective and NOT STOP everywhere. The first DAY we only did about 40 km!!!
Bernkastel-Kues, Bacharach, Cochem, Boppard and Marksburg Castle.. to name a few.. are all worth a stopover.
Rudesheim is overrated IMHO although its main street up the hill is by far the "cutest one" around, but we did not venture much further due to time. I do not think i would like it full of people disembarking from the 17 cruise ships that land there daily during high season. It was also the most expensive place for coffee on the whole trip. (by a lot!)
Next time we will investigate Annsmannshaus (sp?) and its Hotel Krone for lunch.
It was an experience taking the car ferries across the treacherously fast moving rhein as there are no bridges on most of it!!
After Rudesheim we zipped over to Mainz for the rest of the day to see the gutenburg museum and the SPECTACULAR st. stephan's church which boasts Marc chagall's stunning BLUE on BLUE stained glass windows. This should not be missed! it is absolutely divine.
We then drove back towards the airport area in the fog and rain, very happy to have made the decision NOT to stay in Mainz overnight and drive the 90 min.route the next morning early to return the car before 11 a.m
I will post the accomodations websites in Zell, Cochem and Sohren later.I think it would be difficult to not have a wonderful time in this area, and feel it is very good value for your money.
Bikers and hikers have a paradise at their feet. There are also farms with riding and animals to entertain any child for days.
Most full meals were about 10-12 euros/person.
Portions were large, and we found the food and salads tasty.
I did tire of the typical german breakfast.. but i don´t usually have a large breakfast anyway.. so.. shouldn´t complain!
Forgot to mention a great well known store in Sohren called Koefers which sells all types of high end crystal, porcelain, stainless steel, rosenthal china, and has a small outlet store across the street of decorator items.
needless to say we dropped muchos euros there, but thanks to ryan air luggage restrictions we didn´t spend as much as we could have!
I did quite a bit of this same trip many years ago, but repeated it with my mother and two friends this week.
This area is so full of picturesque towns and castles on hilltops, that even with one day, if you are within 100 km., try to do a small part of either river.
We flew into HHN; Frankfurt Hahn, which is just next to the Mosel itself.
This old U.S, military base is surrounded by numerous clean and simple bed and breakfasts (gasthofs)in the outlaying villages. Most of them have a free shuttle to the airport ( those within a few kms).
We stayed at a chef´s b+b, Matthias Klein, in Sohren. The breakfast was great, with blinis, fresh jams, breads, eggs, meats, and peeled pink grapefruit and oranges among other yummy things. It is called Zum Felsenkeller.
Our room was large, small, immaculate bathroom, with upscale corian countertop, and satellite t.v. . As at most places, it was about 40 euros/person for bed and breakfast including tax.
The last night we stayed across the street, as he was full, at Victoria Hotel.It was also immaculate and has friendly staff.
The winter is obviously not the most attractive time to go, especially since it has not snowed for awhile.. and you have the problem that 80 % of the places (including restaurants) are closed. Also, it was carnival week, and we did not find an open tourist office for two full days!
But on the other hand, we had a place to park everywhere.. no waits to be served.. and our choice of the few open places. We are anxious to come back during the spring.
I won´t bore you with more details of the quaint towns, but do encourage you to visit this fine area. Unless you have a week, you will need to be selective and NOT STOP everywhere. The first DAY we only did about 40 km!!!
Bernkastel-Kues, Bacharach, Cochem, Boppard and Marksburg Castle.. to name a few.. are all worth a stopover.
Rudesheim is overrated IMHO although its main street up the hill is by far the "cutest one" around, but we did not venture much further due to time. I do not think i would like it full of people disembarking from the 17 cruise ships that land there daily during high season. It was also the most expensive place for coffee on the whole trip. (by a lot!)
Next time we will investigate Annsmannshaus (sp?) and its Hotel Krone for lunch.
It was an experience taking the car ferries across the treacherously fast moving rhein as there are no bridges on most of it!!
After Rudesheim we zipped over to Mainz for the rest of the day to see the gutenburg museum and the SPECTACULAR st. stephan's church which boasts Marc chagall's stunning BLUE on BLUE stained glass windows. This should not be missed! it is absolutely divine.
We then drove back towards the airport area in the fog and rain, very happy to have made the decision NOT to stay in Mainz overnight and drive the 90 min.route the next morning early to return the car before 11 a.m
I will post the accomodations websites in Zell, Cochem and Sohren later.I think it would be difficult to not have a wonderful time in this area, and feel it is very good value for your money.
Bikers and hikers have a paradise at their feet. There are also farms with riding and animals to entertain any child for days.
Most full meals were about 10-12 euros/person.
Portions were large, and we found the food and salads tasty.
I did tire of the typical german breakfast.. but i don´t usually have a large breakfast anyway.. so.. shouldn´t complain!
Forgot to mention a great well known store in Sohren called Koefers which sells all types of high end crystal, porcelain, stainless steel, rosenthal china, and has a small outlet store across the street of decorator items.
needless to say we dropped muchos euros there, but thanks to ryan air luggage restrictions we didn´t spend as much as we could have!
)
Feb 23rd, 2007 | 03:13 PM
#3
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 12,492
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there really weren´t many steep hills in most towns. it was a very easy trip for her. of course we did a lot from the car. As there were no traffic restrictions, we could drive THROUGH many of the areas that eperhaps in summer are closed to cars.
ther is so much to see ..it was fabulous for her.also, she is walking better snce we have done these trips. it has been a great help for her.
(and there is always a café to stop at if things get tiring.the cappuchinos were some of the best i have had!)
to see all the castles on the hillltops on both sides.. it is just amazing. we were very lucky with the weather, although cold, until the last day. you will love it, kenderina. you guys o.k. up there?
ther is so much to see ..it was fabulous for her.also, she is walking better snce we have done these trips. it has been a great help for her.
(and there is always a café to stop at if things get tiring.the cappuchinos were some of the best i have had!)
to see all the castles on the hillltops on both sides.. it is just amazing. we were very lucky with the weather, although cold, until the last day. you will love it, kenderina. you guys o.k. up there?
Feb 23rd, 2007 | 03:33 PM
#7
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 12,492
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Thanks, again, for all the help i received from the previous posts about the "must see castles",accomodations, etc. here on Fodors. It was very helpful and the success of this trip in great part was due to these posts.
thanks.
thanks.
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Feb 24th, 2007 | 12:58 AM
#9
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here are the websites of the places we stayed and would stay at all of them again.
Sohren: free shuttle to/from frankfurt Hahn.
www.hotel-zum-felsenkeller.de
Our first night. Wonderful entrance to the region. great dinner and fab breakfast.( the best on trip).
On a main road and walk to other shops and restaurants in the village. it is full of places to try.
90 euros triple. 45 single.
Zell ( mosel)http://www.zumgruenenkranz.de/
this also has a nice restaurant with a view across the river. Rooms low season were 80 euros for doubles with breakfast and tax. the is not as LUXURIOUS as it appears in the photo, but very nice. room huge and immaculate. this place is IN town.
Bacharach: Pension Winzerhaus
I could not find a website for them, but they are listed on the all the regional ones with additional info. Seems to be Rick Steve´s fav.. free bikes?? Owners speak very good English.
About 50 euros/double incl. breakfast and tax.( remeber this is LOW season)
Sohren again:
Hotel Garni Viktoria
www.hotel-garni-viktoria.de
70 euros double.
very large rooms and bathrooms. hot hot water. all brand new. very nice staff who spoke perfect english and runs very nice place across the street from felsenkeller.
also free shuttle to airport.
I hope this helps someone. I got so many good tips from here, myself. There are so many nice places to stop along these routes that it really is a tough decision.
Another town i LOVED because it was so small and seemed very quiet is Bruttig.
Sohren: free shuttle to/from frankfurt Hahn.
www.hotel-zum-felsenkeller.de
Our first night. Wonderful entrance to the region. great dinner and fab breakfast.( the best on trip).
On a main road and walk to other shops and restaurants in the village. it is full of places to try.
90 euros triple. 45 single.
Zell ( mosel)http://www.zumgruenenkranz.de/
this also has a nice restaurant with a view across the river. Rooms low season were 80 euros for doubles with breakfast and tax. the is not as LUXURIOUS as it appears in the photo, but very nice. room huge and immaculate. this place is IN town.
Bacharach: Pension Winzerhaus
I could not find a website for them, but they are listed on the all the regional ones with additional info. Seems to be Rick Steve´s fav.. free bikes?? Owners speak very good English.
About 50 euros/double incl. breakfast and tax.( remeber this is LOW season)
Sohren again:
Hotel Garni Viktoria
www.hotel-garni-viktoria.de
70 euros double.
very large rooms and bathrooms. hot hot water. all brand new. very nice staff who spoke perfect english and runs very nice place across the street from felsenkeller.
also free shuttle to airport.
I hope this helps someone. I got so many good tips from here, myself. There are so many nice places to stop along these routes that it really is a tough decision.
Another town i LOVED because it was so small and seemed very quiet is Bruttig.
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