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MaiTaiTom's Paris When It Sizzles; Paris When It Fizzles Anniversary Trip

MaiTaiTom's Paris When It Sizzles; Paris When It Fizzles Anniversary Trip

Old Mar 11th, 2015, 01:15 PM
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Very interesting walk, Kerouac! You certainly did not take the short way, though. I expected you to march straight down Blvd.de Sebastopol, which Google says would take 33 minutes. With all your neat diversions I can see why your battery gave up.
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Old Mar 11th, 2015, 01:21 PM
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Hyper drôle, Kerouac. (I just picked that phrase up from an EZ French sitcom, so it's probably dated already.)

So glad I got to see inside those buildings, MTT, since will probably never get there during Heritage Days. I will now look at the Hôtel de Ville with more respect. Great photos.

My husband gave money to the crazy-cart guy on r.d. Francs Bourgeois last year, so probably encouraged him. Not enough for a glass of wine, just crossed his palm with silver color.
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Old Mar 11th, 2015, 01:28 PM
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Actually, <I>hyper drôle</I> is a still acceptable locution.
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Old Mar 11th, 2015, 01:38 PM
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To give you an idea of the difficulty of this sort of video, besides looking like an idiot walking down the street holding the camera, each minute only creates 6 seconds of images.
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Old Mar 11th, 2015, 03:51 PM
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I'm going to have to give kerouac a cut of my profits from this trip report for keeping it alive. Where's the guy coughing and sneezing on unsuspecting citizens? Oh wait…

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Old Mar 11th, 2015, 06:23 PM
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If you give K too big a cut, he'll retire from fodor's etc. and spend the evenings managing his investments instead.
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 11:01 AM
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Continuing to enjoy your fab report! Despite being taken with that bronchial infection, you guys did so much! Knowing that you're been back to good health, we'll read your next chapter with a feeling of relief. So glad that we were able to enjoy that fun dinner with you and Tracy at the beginning of your trip!

We just caught up with your trip planning for Spain, which, no doubt, has high priority now. It sounds exciting!
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 11:28 AM
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Oh damn, I thought we finally had a new instalment to spare me going down those damp cellar steps to try to find another ridiculous link for the peanut gallery.
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 11:49 AM
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Je suis decu - I am going to binge-watch "The Following", instead...
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 11:53 AM
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kerouac, I too saw this report at the top of the forum list and thought, "Finally, another installment" but was, like you, disappointed that one is not up yet.

However I happily found, instead, your video.

I was mesmerized and didn't want it to end. Merci mille fois.

I also had the thought that next time someone asks, "What should I wear in Paris?" you just need to post a link to that video and the question will be answered quite neatly.

What is the new building?
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 12:27 PM
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TTT
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 12:44 PM
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The new building is the Philharmonie designed by Jean Nouvel.

For more mundane views of Paris, I have
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 12:47 PM
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(Don't you hate it when you hit 'send' by accident?)

... a whole different series of tiny snippets of daily life.

For example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugD-uZrl5sQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTinI9HRW4w
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 01:30 PM
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Dammit, kerouac, I am supposed to be grading tests this afternoon, not watching videos and daydreaming of Paris.

That is to say, merci encore une fois.

(No more peeks at the forum until I finish those tests).

Debra
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 01:51 PM
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<B>Day Ten - Barely Hanging In There, The Late Afternoon Is A Little Rosier(s) and Not Ricky St-Gervais</B>

<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-nine-trying-to-make-the-best-of-it/</B>

This turned out to be our worst full day in Paris (you’ll notice I didn’t say it was “THE worst day of the trip,” because that didn’t happen for a couple of more days).

First of all, I was up all night. Unfortunately, unlike home where I can be banished to all corners of the house, a small apartment afforded Tracy no respite from my coughing onslaught. On Wednesday morning, instead of a sight for sore eyes, we were a sight with sore eyes.

My temperature was up, and the coughing was non-stop (which reminded us to check the iPad, and our Saturday flight was still on schedule and not yet affected by the strike). The cough became so persistent that at one point we were attempting to find nearby hospitals just in case I needed a breathing treatment.

We spent the entire day in the apartment. Tracy only left to accumulate more medical supplies and a jambon/fromage sandwich from the corner pâtissière. As the afternoon dragged on, the fever once more returned to near normal, so at about 4 p.m., we ventured outside for a little bit.

After Tracy purchased some earrings at a nearby jewelry store, we came upon a feline who was the ultimate “Fat Cat.” He looked pretty comfortable here in (and on) the hood.

We headed down the Rue des Rosiers, the center of the Jewish quarter. The Rue de Rosiers was packed with people. There was a good reason…it was September 24th, and at sundown Rosh Hashanah would begin.

Oy Gevalt! You should have seen the people lined up at Sacha Finkelsztajn! The Yiddish bakery was one busy place as people readied themselves for Rosh Hashanah.

Then we passed the old Chez Jo Goldenberg, a restaurant we had learned about back in 2006 (above) when we were on the walking tour with our guide Michael Osman. In 1982, six people were killed inside when attackers opened machine gun fire and threw grenades inside the restaurant.

(Update: Just a few days ago, a judge in France issued arrest warrants against three men who are believed to have been part of a Palestinian terrorist group who are suspected in taking part in the Goldenberg attack.)

The restaurant closed in 2006, and today it’s a fashion store.

We turned a corner, and there was Santa Claus. For a moment I blamed the cough syrup, but once again Tracy assured me I wasn’t seeing things.

I was weakening, but you know the old saying, “When the going gets tough, the tough eat gelato.” We had been told that Pozzetto was better than Berthillon, so, of course, even in a diminished capacity, I needed to find out.

The first thing we found out is that the person working at Pozzetto could barely get off his ass to take our order since he was busy conversing and laughing with his buddies. Maybe he was the brother of the grocery store slacker clerk. “Hell, I can get crappy service like this in L.A.,” I told Tracy. Yes, my mood was not at its highest pinnacle on this day, so patience was entirely out of the question.

The gelato (coffee/vanilla and chocolate chip) was good (once finally served), but not stupendous.

A short distance away was Église St-Gervais-et-St-Protais, which has been around since the 16th century. The church was damaged in World War I when a shell from a long range German weapon known as a “Paris Gun” hit it, killing 88 people.

We walked around the inside for a bit, but the handwriting was on the wall, because I was leaning against it. I was done. Tracy went to our nearby pâtissière for provisions.

Tomorrow, we had plans to rendezvous with friends (former neighbors who we had not seen in years) for dinner. I would get out of the apartment earlier, but sadly by dinnertime I was in no shape to see or converse with anyone, which led to one of the worst meals we’ve ever experienced in Paris.

<B>Day Eleven - Yet Another Sleepless Night, Hédiard Herbs, Another Dinner With Friends Cancelled, Sorry I Threw That Cigarette On Your Shoe Monsieur & The Worst Dinner In Paris</B>

If you thought yesterday was exciting, my condolences. Today would be no better.

By sunrise, I had basically gone about 48 hours without sleep, except for a couple of times when my body shut down for about ten minutes. I could have had a guest-starring role in The Walking Dead.

We seriously considered the hospital on this morning, but I somehow fell asleep for nearly three hours.

Buoyed by that extra sleep, I showered and we left the apartment a little before 1 p.m. Although all other shopping had been postponed due to illness, Tracy would not be denied her #1 quest when she comes to Paris…buying the Herbes de Provence at Hédiard. She pretty much puts those herbs in every dish we cook. Tracy actually wiped out the entire supply of Herbes de Provence that Hédiard had left.

Impressively (at least in my opinion) I refrained from coughing once while inside the store. As Tracy bought her herbs, I just wandered around scoping out their fresh fruits and veggies, plus lots of kitchen stuff.

After our Hédiard stop, we grabbed a quick bite at the nearby Café Madeleine. If comfort food is good for a cold, then the French Onion Soup and frites did as good as they could, but I was
fading again…quickly…so we walked to the metro to head home.
We decided to cancel dinner with our friends, mostly because they were just starting their trip and getting them ill would not be the “neighborly” thing to do.

Back at the apartment, we checked online and our flight to Los Angeles was still scheduled for Saturday morning. I thought that if we relaxed the rest of the day and evening and then went out for a quick dinner, I might be able to rally tomorrow to at least see a few last sights before departing.

About 7 o’clock we left the apartment and walked over to the Place des Vosges. Looking at the photo, I can’t believe I looked as good as I did, because I was incredibly tired. Then I made a really stupid decision.

Instead of looking around for a decent place to eat, we selected an empty outside table at a restaurant with no other table very close to it. Not only could I avoid infecting anyone but I figured no smokers would
be nearby to exacerbate my already weakened lung condition.

We sat down at Ma Bourgogne. The first thing we learned is they only take cash, so while I sipped some water Tracy headed to the nearest ATM, which turned out to be a few blocks away.

The closest table to us had to be six to eight feet away. Sitting there was a single woman (well, she might have been married, but she was there alone). She was smoking, but far enough away that I couldn’t smell anything. Of course, I barely had any sense of smell anyway.

As we were ordering, the woman, not paying attention to anything but her extremely long phone call, tossed her cigarette. As far as cigarette tosses goes, this might have set the record. The remaining butt actually landed on my shoe, and settled right next to my foot.

I looked over at her, and she was momentarily oblivious to her lack of restaurant etiquette. A few seconds late, she did see where she had tossed the cigarette, and to her credit, she did apologize.

Sadly, her Herculean cigarette throw turned out to be the highlight of the meal. I had a less than satisfactory steak with Bearnaise sauce (good frites again though) while Tracy started with a not-so-tasty cucumber and green bean salad, and then a pretty poor lentils with ham main course. At least my tarte tatin flambé for dessert was good. Plus, in my mood it was fun to see food lit on fire.

We walked off our dinner and strolled down to Saint-Paul-Saint-Louisfor a nighttime photo. We were finis.

To round out this stellar day, we arrived back at the apartment to see (and hear) Dennis wailing away in the stairwell. I have to admit the acoustics in that stairwell were pretty good.

My only solace was that I felt just a tad better, and, maybe, with a little sleep, our final full day in Paris could be better. We quickly put the air conditioner on to drown out Stairwell To Heaven by Dennis. Eat your heart out Robert Plant!

Tracy and I had lunch planned at Chez Fernand (our traditional last lunch stop) and dinner reservations had been set up at L’Ange 20. If we paced ourselves, maybe we could see a couple of more things in between.

As my head hit the pillow, I was psyching myself up to make our last day in Paris as enjoyable as possible under these less than ideal circumstances. It seemed like that could become a reality…that is until I received an email at 4:30 in the morning that would set the wheels in motion for 36 hours that seemed to last an eternity.


<B>Next: Day Twelve – Strike Two, The Disconnect, Confirmed, I Go Hugo We Go, Goodbye Mickey, Is There A Doctor In The Queue, Confirmed My Ass, Tracy Plays Her Cards, The Waiting Game, “You’re On”, Dead Man Running, Tracy Gets Us In A Little Jam, Tracy The Sherpa Returns, The Passenger You Want To Kill, Bad News From The Finger Puppet, Breath Of Fresh Air, Is There A Doctor On The Plane, The iEKG, Over My Dead Body, Home Not Sweet Home and Strike Three…I’m Out!</B>
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 02:19 PM
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Nothing worse than being sick on a trip. You did admirably though.
Always walk by Ma Bourgogne and wondered if it was any good...guess not.
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 02:30 PM
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At last! You look like the picture of health, tom.
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 02:37 PM
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That picture of health didn't last long. kerouac, do you know what church I passed by on my walk to Parc de la Villette a couple of days before? And that was the Bassin de la Villette we were walking along? I'm blaming the cough syrup, you know.

yestravel, yes, sadly not the best. I'd blame it on my illness, but Tracy's dish was worse. The dessert was good, however, so not all was lost.

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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 05:43 PM
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Incredibly impressed at your optimism and ability to carry on when feeling really awful. You manage to have trip report-worthy adventures even when you're ill! Tracy sounds like a trooper, too.

Also adding Hédiard to the list of places I must visit in May/June.

Debra
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 08:09 PM
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TOM, you are amazing. The "best laid plans" and all that. Following your journey with great interest...
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