Just back from Rome, Florence & Tuscany!!!
Jun 19th, 2006, 05:15 AM
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Just back from Rome, Florence & Tuscany!!!
Just back (yesterday) from an amazing trip to Italy. Let me start by saying that I used this forum 6 years ago when planning a monthlong trip to France & Italy. I never posted a trip report when I returned and have been feeling guilty ever since! So, I have just returned and am wasting no time in posting this report!! Let me start by thanking everyone SO much who offered advice, whether they knew it or not. This forum is fantastic and I am quite grateful for all the help. I traved with my DH and 16 year old daughter. We used AA miles and flew in & out of NY JFK and Rome FCO. The flights were great, on time and smooth. We were met at the airport (on Saturday AM June 10th)by Rome Shuttle Limousine just outside baggage pickup with a driver holding a sign with our name. This was arranged online and it was a pleasure([email protected]). We were taken to the train station where we caught the next Eurostar to Florence. The next train was in 10-15 minutes, so there was no waiting. We arrived in Florence and took a taxi to our hotel. We stayed at the Hotel De La Ville on the Via Tournabuoni. We loved this hotel. We had a superior double room (350E/night) which was huge and beautiful. This included a lovely buffet breakfast. The location was amazing. We did not take another cab in Florence. We were able to walk everywhere. The hotel staff was fabulous. I highly recommend this hotel([email protected]). We arrived starving & walked over to the Piazza della Republica and had lunch outside. It was touristy but delicious. Then we were able to check in and take a nap. We awoke and just walked and walked and had dinner at ZaZa's which was just OK.
Sunday after breakfast we headed straight to the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. We LOVED this place. Thank you Fodorites for this suggestion. We bought many products, including some small gifts and my suitcase smelled so beautiful for the rest of the trip. Then we went to the Museo Santa Maria Novella, which was small and lovely. Next the Ponte Vecchio and lunch. After lunch we went to the Uffizi. (I had emailed the hotel about 1 week before my trip and asked them to make reservations for us for the Uffizi and the Galleria dell'Accademia. This was the only thing I forgot to arrange ahead of time, but the hotel was able to secure reservations which was great). After the Uffizi we walked around the Loggia. Dinner at Buca Mario, which the hotel suggested, and was quite delicious.
Monday we started our day at Santa Croce, and then walked around the Leather School which you enter through the back of the church. The items were beautiful but quite expensive. Next we walked around the Duomo and had lunch at a little place about 2 blocks from the Duomo called Osteria dell'Olio. We loved this place so much we went back the next day and were treated like family! Address is Piazza dell'Olio, Tel.055211466 (www.osteriadellolio.com) We noticed many local business people eating here, which is a good sign. We ordered off the daily specials menu, and the food was fabulous. After lunch we went to the Medici Chapel, which unfortunately is covered in scaffolding. Then we walked around the flea market at San Lorenzo where both my daughter and I bought beautiful leather and suede, very inexpensive! We had dinner at Bella Luna, which was recommended on this forum, and we loved it! That evening we went to a classical concert which was given in a church, and it was lovely!
Tuesday after breakfast we went to the Museo del Bargello, which is an outdoor sculpture garden, and is very beautiful. Lunch at Osteria dell'Olio again, and then we went to see David at the Accademia. Since the hotel had made the reservation for us, we did not have to wait in line which was wonderful. Then we strolled around this beautiful city, and had dinner at Il Guscio in the Oltarno, which was recommended on this forum. We really liked this restaurant! Wednesday we checked out of our hotel (boohoo) and picked up our rental car from Hertz (which I had AAA arrange ahead of time for us). We drove to Cortona, but stopped at the Prada outlet on the way. DH was wonderfully patient, and we bought lots of stuff. Prices here are about 1/3 of the regular prices. Just need to ignore some of the snooty sales people. Then we arrived in Cortona and stayed at the Villa Marsili, which is a beautiful small hotel ([email protected]). We had a large room with magnificent views of Tuscany for 217E, including breakfast. We had lunch at a pizzeria overlooking the hills of Tuscany, walked around town, back to the hotel to shower & then back in town for dinner at an informal restaurant called Fufluns, on the Via Ghibellina in Cortona. It was delicious, and Cortona is a beautiful hilltown.
Thursday we checked out and drove straight to Rome, where we dropped off the car and checked into the Albergo del Senato. Thank you Fodorites for this suggestion. We LOVED this hotel. We of course requested a view of the Pantheon, which is one of my favorite places in the world. I cannot speak highly enough of this hotel. It was expensive because we booked a jr. suite, but it was worth every penny. The staff is wonderful and the location cannot be beat. Let me say it again, we LOVED this hotel!!!! We went into the Pantheon at least twice a day. After checking in we had lunch and walked to the Trevi Fountain, and walked and walked all over town. We had a drink at the rooftop bar, which quickly became DH's favorite spot, and then dinner at Virginiae, which was recommended by the hotel. (Via Di Parione, 41). The table wasn't ready the moment we arrived so they gave each of us a glass of champagne, which was quite a lovely touch! Dinner was delicious.
Friday we had arranged for a private guide to spend the day with us and we were picked up at our hotel and taken to the Vatican. Had we waited in line, it would have taken half the day just to get in. Our guide, Michael, took us to the entrance, where we met another guide, Lorenzo, who took us right in. This was amazing, very indulgent, but worth it to us. Lorenzo spent about 2 hours with us and then took us outside to meet up with Michael again. Michael then drove us to Tivoli, a wonderful day trip. We stopped and had lunch at L'Angolina di Mirko Trattoria on the Via della Missione in Tivoli, which was fantastic. Michael knew the owners so we were treated like royalty. We never even saw a menu. We told them what we liked and the food was amazing. They even gave us a goodie bag with cookies and their own olive oil. What a treat!! Then Michael took us to the Villa d'Este, which is magnificent (fountains and gardens). Michael is a character and we had a great time with him ([email protected]). Then back to Rome for drinks on the rooftop bar, and a late light dinner at a pizzaria called Il Fagiolaro (very near the hotel), which was delicious.
Saturday, our last day in Rome, so sad! We started our day at the Coloseum (we got there early so the line wasn't bad). Then we went to San Pietro InVincoli to see Michaelangelo's statue of Moses. This church is a very short walk from the Coloseum, so do not miss it! There was a wedding going on at the time, which was great. We then had lunch at a fabulous outdoor cafe overlooking the Coloseum, Oppio Caffe, Via delle Terme di Tito. We had salads and the food was great. Then we walked back to the hotel, and headed back out to the Spanish Steps. About 4 blocks from the Spanish Steps is an amazingly beautiful church called Basilica Die SSambrogioe Carlo which is located directly across from the Plaza Albergo Splendido. Do not miss this Church. We then walked back to the Pantheon & had a drink in the square. Dinner our last night was at hostaria Costanza, which was also recommended on this forum. We LOVED it! It is located in the Piazza Paradiso. While we always enjoyed dining outside, we sat inside here because you are sitting among the remains of an ancient theater, and the food is fabulous!! Sunday we flew home and now I am writing my trip report!! It went so fast. But before I finish, I just want to add several things. We did so much walking, which was fantastic. While we saw alot, we did not overschedule which I believe is crucial. It's important to have time to just stroll, and eat gelato, which we did alot of! I will be happy to answer any questions, so please feel free to email me directly at [email protected]. And from the bottom of my heart, thank you all again!
Sunday after breakfast we headed straight to the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. We LOVED this place. Thank you Fodorites for this suggestion. We bought many products, including some small gifts and my suitcase smelled so beautiful for the rest of the trip. Then we went to the Museo Santa Maria Novella, which was small and lovely. Next the Ponte Vecchio and lunch. After lunch we went to the Uffizi. (I had emailed the hotel about 1 week before my trip and asked them to make reservations for us for the Uffizi and the Galleria dell'Accademia. This was the only thing I forgot to arrange ahead of time, but the hotel was able to secure reservations which was great). After the Uffizi we walked around the Loggia. Dinner at Buca Mario, which the hotel suggested, and was quite delicious.
Monday we started our day at Santa Croce, and then walked around the Leather School which you enter through the back of the church. The items were beautiful but quite expensive. Next we walked around the Duomo and had lunch at a little place about 2 blocks from the Duomo called Osteria dell'Olio. We loved this place so much we went back the next day and were treated like family! Address is Piazza dell'Olio, Tel.055211466 (www.osteriadellolio.com) We noticed many local business people eating here, which is a good sign. We ordered off the daily specials menu, and the food was fabulous. After lunch we went to the Medici Chapel, which unfortunately is covered in scaffolding. Then we walked around the flea market at San Lorenzo where both my daughter and I bought beautiful leather and suede, very inexpensive! We had dinner at Bella Luna, which was recommended on this forum, and we loved it! That evening we went to a classical concert which was given in a church, and it was lovely!
Tuesday after breakfast we went to the Museo del Bargello, which is an outdoor sculpture garden, and is very beautiful. Lunch at Osteria dell'Olio again, and then we went to see David at the Accademia. Since the hotel had made the reservation for us, we did not have to wait in line which was wonderful. Then we strolled around this beautiful city, and had dinner at Il Guscio in the Oltarno, which was recommended on this forum. We really liked this restaurant! Wednesday we checked out of our hotel (boohoo) and picked up our rental car from Hertz (which I had AAA arrange ahead of time for us). We drove to Cortona, but stopped at the Prada outlet on the way. DH was wonderfully patient, and we bought lots of stuff. Prices here are about 1/3 of the regular prices. Just need to ignore some of the snooty sales people. Then we arrived in Cortona and stayed at the Villa Marsili, which is a beautiful small hotel ([email protected]). We had a large room with magnificent views of Tuscany for 217E, including breakfast. We had lunch at a pizzeria overlooking the hills of Tuscany, walked around town, back to the hotel to shower & then back in town for dinner at an informal restaurant called Fufluns, on the Via Ghibellina in Cortona. It was delicious, and Cortona is a beautiful hilltown.
Thursday we checked out and drove straight to Rome, where we dropped off the car and checked into the Albergo del Senato. Thank you Fodorites for this suggestion. We LOVED this hotel. We of course requested a view of the Pantheon, which is one of my favorite places in the world. I cannot speak highly enough of this hotel. It was expensive because we booked a jr. suite, but it was worth every penny. The staff is wonderful and the location cannot be beat. Let me say it again, we LOVED this hotel!!!! We went into the Pantheon at least twice a day. After checking in we had lunch and walked to the Trevi Fountain, and walked and walked all over town. We had a drink at the rooftop bar, which quickly became DH's favorite spot, and then dinner at Virginiae, which was recommended by the hotel. (Via Di Parione, 41). The table wasn't ready the moment we arrived so they gave each of us a glass of champagne, which was quite a lovely touch! Dinner was delicious.
Friday we had arranged for a private guide to spend the day with us and we were picked up at our hotel and taken to the Vatican. Had we waited in line, it would have taken half the day just to get in. Our guide, Michael, took us to the entrance, where we met another guide, Lorenzo, who took us right in. This was amazing, very indulgent, but worth it to us. Lorenzo spent about 2 hours with us and then took us outside to meet up with Michael again. Michael then drove us to Tivoli, a wonderful day trip. We stopped and had lunch at L'Angolina di Mirko Trattoria on the Via della Missione in Tivoli, which was fantastic. Michael knew the owners so we were treated like royalty. We never even saw a menu. We told them what we liked and the food was amazing. They even gave us a goodie bag with cookies and their own olive oil. What a treat!! Then Michael took us to the Villa d'Este, which is magnificent (fountains and gardens). Michael is a character and we had a great time with him ([email protected]). Then back to Rome for drinks on the rooftop bar, and a late light dinner at a pizzaria called Il Fagiolaro (very near the hotel), which was delicious.
Saturday, our last day in Rome, so sad! We started our day at the Coloseum (we got there early so the line wasn't bad). Then we went to San Pietro InVincoli to see Michaelangelo's statue of Moses. This church is a very short walk from the Coloseum, so do not miss it! There was a wedding going on at the time, which was great. We then had lunch at a fabulous outdoor cafe overlooking the Coloseum, Oppio Caffe, Via delle Terme di Tito. We had salads and the food was great. Then we walked back to the hotel, and headed back out to the Spanish Steps. About 4 blocks from the Spanish Steps is an amazingly beautiful church called Basilica Die SSambrogioe Carlo which is located directly across from the Plaza Albergo Splendido. Do not miss this Church. We then walked back to the Pantheon & had a drink in the square. Dinner our last night was at hostaria Costanza, which was also recommended on this forum. We LOVED it! It is located in the Piazza Paradiso. While we always enjoyed dining outside, we sat inside here because you are sitting among the remains of an ancient theater, and the food is fabulous!! Sunday we flew home and now I am writing my trip report!! It went so fast. But before I finish, I just want to add several things. We did so much walking, which was fantastic. While we saw alot, we did not overschedule which I believe is crucial. It's important to have time to just stroll, and eat gelato, which we did alot of! I will be happy to answer any questions, so please feel free to email me directly at [email protected]. And from the bottom of my heart, thank you all again!
Jun 19th, 2006, 09:45 AM
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Hello spk, welcome home! Isn't it the saddest thing, the last day in Italy. I always hate that day!
Your trip was obviously beautiful, as is your trip report. I am glad you gave yourselves time to just soak in the atmosphere as that is truly the way to enjoy Rome IMO. Wish I could have convinced some family members of that a few years ago, lol. They rushed from one place to the next without stopping and now consequently "hate" Rome.
I know your daughter will remember this trip forever. Wishing all of you many more.
Your trip was obviously beautiful, as is your trip report. I am glad you gave yourselves time to just soak in the atmosphere as that is truly the way to enjoy Rome IMO. Wish I could have convinced some family members of that a few years ago, lol. They rushed from one place to the next without stopping and now consequently "hate" Rome.
I know your daughter will remember this trip forever. Wishing all of you many more.
Jun 19th, 2006, 04:50 PM
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How delightful to see a wedding at the San Pietro in Vincoli - I love that church, especially Moses, of course! When I was there, it kind of bothered me that I seemed to be the only one with the correct coins to put in the illumination slot. Doesn't anyone bring change, or are they all too cheap? It's obvious everyone wants a picture with the lights on, but no one wants to put the money in.
We also try to see a concert at the churches as well. The organs sound so lovely in those huge cathedrals.
Good report. Thanks for the details!
We also try to see a concert at the churches as well. The organs sound so lovely in those huge cathedrals.
Good report. Thanks for the details!
Jun 20th, 2006, 05:22 AM
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Thank you all for your lovely comments! I forgot to add another highlight, which was the rooftop cafe at the Uffizi. It's a great spot for a coffee, or in our case a coffee with gelato which was delicious! Also, it overlooks the Town Hall, which is fabulous
Jun 20th, 2006, 06:10 AM
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Kopp, wasn't St. Peter in Chains the church that only takes .50 coins? I remember that several of the churches only take this coin. Whatever church it was, we simply didn't have the right coin and had to rely on others. Early in ones trip, one probably has few coins. At first, my husband was very proud of himself for using up coins when he paid for things. I had to tell him that we'd NEED those coins for church illuminations and pay toilets.
Jun 20th, 2006, 09:42 AM
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spk -
Lovely report!
Isn't it wonderful how, when you return to a restaurant for a second meal, you are treated like family! I love that about Italians!
I agree that there is never enough time in any city in Italy (or room in the luggage to bring home everything you want!). You can never see everything and absolutely must take time to simply enjoy being there!
Thanks for sharing!
Linda
Lovely report!
Isn't it wonderful how, when you return to a restaurant for a second meal, you are treated like family! I love that about Italians!
I agree that there is never enough time in any city in Italy (or room in the luggage to bring home everything you want!). You can never see everything and absolutely must take time to simply enjoy being there!
Thanks for sharing!
Linda
Jun 20th, 2006, 11:32 AM
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Great report! I knew you would love the Albergo Del Senato. We were there the end of February, and unfortunately the rooftop was not open. On our last day in Rome we also had lunch at the hosteria Constanza. Our biggest mistake was not going back for dinner. I am so glad you trip was so enjoyable. Welcome back! Lisa
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