I Love Paris (and other thoughts for your future visit)
Nov 21st, 2005, 03:11 AM
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I Love Paris (and other thoughts for your future visit)
My DW and I leave Paris in ten days, having been here for three months. I always liked Paris and France, but now we are flat out overwhelmed by the wonderful people we have met, the food and wine, and all the sites. We have been in France and Paris four times before but never came close to staying this long. No trip report here….too much to say….but here are some summary thoughts for those of you who might be visiting for more than a week in the future.
We rented a 65 sq meter apartment in the 7th right near the 6th, two blocks from the Musee D’Orsay and the Seine, to put my comments in perspective, but we walked or otherwise visited 17 of the 20 arrondisments (didn’t get to 13,17 or 20). We have taken the metro more times than I will ever remember, and walked the city day and night with never a problem, fortunately. However, I did not like the feeling of being surrounded by those hawking perfume, watches, and jewelry when we went outside the 18th on our way to the antique shops at Marche aux Puces. This was two weeks before the riots.
For those of you staying a week or more, I really recommend that you rent an apartment. It gives you much more flexibility and helps you feel like you live in Paris….shopping for food at the outdoor markets, buying bread, wine or cheese at the neighborhood stores. Right now you can buy fresh oysters from the Brittany Coast by the box for about 35 cents each. All this helps keep costs down by not having to eat out three times a day. Furthermore, I don’t think it matters what arrondissement you land in because the transportation system is terrific.
If you belong to some association in the States, try to attend the counterpart in Paris while you are here…..the business group, a wine group, a religious group…anything. We have been introduced to some wonderful French people this way and ended up having dinner in their homes.
While most everyone knows the top sites to visit, consider these if you’re staying longer:
The Musee Marmottan Monet…the largest single collection of Monet and right now through about the end of January a collection of sculptures from Camille Claudel, who studied under Rodin. She fell in love with him but all this ended tragically, as you will learn. The Musee Carnavalet shows the history of Paris in art and photos, especially in the last two centuries. The Musee Jacquemart-Andre, a personal glimpse of how the affluent lived in Paris by touring their home and seeing the special exhibit by the wonderful painter Jacques-Louis David. If you want to take a trip back in time, this is it. The Musee Cernuschi, newly reopened and displaying a superb collection of whole Asian art (as compared to looking at bits and pieces of pottery etc). The Musee Du Moyen Age, in a beautiful 15th century abbots residence above the remains of early Roman baths. At Musee Picasso you will be able to watch how his art changed over the course of his life. At least all this is a start off the beaten path of the Louvre, d’Orsay, and Pompidou.
I also urge you to consider a trip on the Canal St. Martin that starts below the Musee d’Orsay area on the Seine and works it way up through the locks of the canal to Parc de la Villette, where you should visit the Cite des Sciences et d’Industrie. Great children’s museum at the end too. Pick a nice day to do this as it would not be as much fun on an overcast or rainy day. There are several providers but we enjoyed the www.pariscanal.com trip.
Restaurants? Too many choices and not enough time! First of all, we made a list from all the recommendations of friends and some posters here. Then we overlaid the 2005-06 Zaget Survey comments and came up with a target list. As of now, and we are not finished yet, we have had dinner and some lunches at over 30 places. Our top choice was Le Reminet (5th), near the Seine, cozy, intimate, and quite French – excellent food and service. Look for the wines of the month. We were impressed with Brasserie Balzar (5th) for lunch…traditional bistro setting, academics and business people properly attired. If your relative were visiting Paris for the first time with you and you wanted to impress them with the more historic-looking places try La Fermette Marbeuf (8th) with the lighted painted glass ceilings, Le Petit Zinc (6th), Le Procope (6th), or Le Dome (14th). Granted, these are all quite touristy, but for one visit, worth seeing the décor. If you wish to take your sweetheart out for a candle light dinner try Le Coupe-Chou (5th).
I love Paris for many, many reasons as in the above but also because: The fresh market vendors personally “select” your vegetables when you ask for something, looking at each one as they put it in your basket. People actually form a line at a taxi stand. The taxis are clean and consist mostly of Mercedes Benz or other high end cars. On the metro you don’t have to listen to someone else’s music from their headsets. There are no cars passing with the sound system cranked up so high that it vibrates the car. The restaurant serving staff is mature, very efficient, and they seem to like their jobs and it shows. All the shop owners say hello, and have a good day when you leave. If you even slightly bump into someone on the street or in a store they say excuse me (amazing). I swear there are no flies or bugs in Paris. I still can’t get over the high quality of the boulangerie in Paris. I remain surprised that one can have a leisurely meal without feeling like the management is trying to turn the table. My surprise at being asked directions by a French person. Having the person next to you on the TGV lead you to the connecting train since you don’t know where to go. How about your favorites?
Have a Happy Thanksgiving, all! Tom
We rented a 65 sq meter apartment in the 7th right near the 6th, two blocks from the Musee D’Orsay and the Seine, to put my comments in perspective, but we walked or otherwise visited 17 of the 20 arrondisments (didn’t get to 13,17 or 20). We have taken the metro more times than I will ever remember, and walked the city day and night with never a problem, fortunately. However, I did not like the feeling of being surrounded by those hawking perfume, watches, and jewelry when we went outside the 18th on our way to the antique shops at Marche aux Puces. This was two weeks before the riots.
For those of you staying a week or more, I really recommend that you rent an apartment. It gives you much more flexibility and helps you feel like you live in Paris….shopping for food at the outdoor markets, buying bread, wine or cheese at the neighborhood stores. Right now you can buy fresh oysters from the Brittany Coast by the box for about 35 cents each. All this helps keep costs down by not having to eat out three times a day. Furthermore, I don’t think it matters what arrondissement you land in because the transportation system is terrific.
If you belong to some association in the States, try to attend the counterpart in Paris while you are here…..the business group, a wine group, a religious group…anything. We have been introduced to some wonderful French people this way and ended up having dinner in their homes.
While most everyone knows the top sites to visit, consider these if you’re staying longer:
The Musee Marmottan Monet…the largest single collection of Monet and right now through about the end of January a collection of sculptures from Camille Claudel, who studied under Rodin. She fell in love with him but all this ended tragically, as you will learn. The Musee Carnavalet shows the history of Paris in art and photos, especially in the last two centuries. The Musee Jacquemart-Andre, a personal glimpse of how the affluent lived in Paris by touring their home and seeing the special exhibit by the wonderful painter Jacques-Louis David. If you want to take a trip back in time, this is it. The Musee Cernuschi, newly reopened and displaying a superb collection of whole Asian art (as compared to looking at bits and pieces of pottery etc). The Musee Du Moyen Age, in a beautiful 15th century abbots residence above the remains of early Roman baths. At Musee Picasso you will be able to watch how his art changed over the course of his life. At least all this is a start off the beaten path of the Louvre, d’Orsay, and Pompidou.
I also urge you to consider a trip on the Canal St. Martin that starts below the Musee d’Orsay area on the Seine and works it way up through the locks of the canal to Parc de la Villette, where you should visit the Cite des Sciences et d’Industrie. Great children’s museum at the end too. Pick a nice day to do this as it would not be as much fun on an overcast or rainy day. There are several providers but we enjoyed the www.pariscanal.com trip.
Restaurants? Too many choices and not enough time! First of all, we made a list from all the recommendations of friends and some posters here. Then we overlaid the 2005-06 Zaget Survey comments and came up with a target list. As of now, and we are not finished yet, we have had dinner and some lunches at over 30 places. Our top choice was Le Reminet (5th), near the Seine, cozy, intimate, and quite French – excellent food and service. Look for the wines of the month. We were impressed with Brasserie Balzar (5th) for lunch…traditional bistro setting, academics and business people properly attired. If your relative were visiting Paris for the first time with you and you wanted to impress them with the more historic-looking places try La Fermette Marbeuf (8th) with the lighted painted glass ceilings, Le Petit Zinc (6th), Le Procope (6th), or Le Dome (14th). Granted, these are all quite touristy, but for one visit, worth seeing the décor. If you wish to take your sweetheart out for a candle light dinner try Le Coupe-Chou (5th).
I love Paris for many, many reasons as in the above but also because: The fresh market vendors personally “select” your vegetables when you ask for something, looking at each one as they put it in your basket. People actually form a line at a taxi stand. The taxis are clean and consist mostly of Mercedes Benz or other high end cars. On the metro you don’t have to listen to someone else’s music from their headsets. There are no cars passing with the sound system cranked up so high that it vibrates the car. The restaurant serving staff is mature, very efficient, and they seem to like their jobs and it shows. All the shop owners say hello, and have a good day when you leave. If you even slightly bump into someone on the street or in a store they say excuse me (amazing). I swear there are no flies or bugs in Paris. I still can’t get over the high quality of the boulangerie in Paris. I remain surprised that one can have a leisurely meal without feeling like the management is trying to turn the table. My surprise at being asked directions by a French person. Having the person next to you on the TGV lead you to the connecting train since you don’t know where to go. How about your favorites?
Have a Happy Thanksgiving, all! Tom
Nov 21st, 2005, 03:38 AM
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Hi Tom,
You've covered many of my favorites.
A few more:
Gelato at Amorino
Good, cheap wines without sulfites
Spicy, fragrent olive oil
Chocolates and Pastries
450 kinds of cheese
The Jardin des Plantes, the Luxembourg Gardens and the Parc Monceau in the Spring.
You've covered many of my favorites.
A few more:
Gelato at Amorino
Good, cheap wines without sulfites
Spicy, fragrent olive oil
Chocolates and Pastries
450 kinds of cheese
The Jardin des Plantes, the Luxembourg Gardens and the Parc Monceau in the Spring.
Nov 21st, 2005, 03:46 AM
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Tom,
Thanks so much for your moving memorial/memories of a wonderful city!
I do want to warn you, though -- the return to your home (US? Canada?) may seem unbearable in comparison. My bet is that you'll start planning an even more permanent stay in Paris! My best to you as you transition back to "home"!
s
Thanks so much for your moving memorial/memories of a wonderful city!
I do want to warn you, though -- the return to your home (US? Canada?) may seem unbearable in comparison. My bet is that you'll start planning an even more permanent stay in Paris! My best to you as you transition back to "home"!
s
Nov 21st, 2005, 03:51 AM
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>>>>>
On the metro you don’t have to listen to someone else’s music from their headsets. There are no cars passing with the sound system cranked up so high that it vibrates the car. If you even slightly bump into someone on the street or in a store they say excuse me (amazing).
>>>>
People often enter the metro with blaring boom-boxes. most of the other passengers seem intimidated by this (as is the intent of the offender, i suppose).
I do enjoy paris but i do not find that it is particularly devoid of the same kind of big city problems found everywhere (aggressive and anti-social behaviours, rudeness, etc). i'm glad you enjoyed it though.
On the metro you don’t have to listen to someone else’s music from their headsets. There are no cars passing with the sound system cranked up so high that it vibrates the car. If you even slightly bump into someone on the street or in a store they say excuse me (amazing).
>>>>
People often enter the metro with blaring boom-boxes. most of the other passengers seem intimidated by this (as is the intent of the offender, i suppose).
I do enjoy paris but i do not find that it is particularly devoid of the same kind of big city problems found everywhere (aggressive and anti-social behaviours, rudeness, etc). i'm glad you enjoyed it though.
Nov 21st, 2005, 05:23 AM
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Paris is my favorite city but one impression I have is that it seems I am <i>always</i> the one that has to step aside or move over on a crowded sidewalk. So what's the remedy - a game of sidewalk "chicken"? Avoid looking anyone in the eye or look them straight in the eye?
Nov 21st, 2005, 05:31 AM
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We notice the same thing about walking on the sidewalks. It's irksome but honestly the locals in my hometown are pretty good at hogging the sidewalks themselves. So for us we accept it, don't say anything.
Nov 21st, 2005, 05:53 AM
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Ira
< good cheap wines without the sulfites>
Can you give me the address to this place? I leave for Paris December 8th.
Learned a nice little trick regarding sulfites(I suffer from chronic migraines). If you just can't wait for the wine to breath take one of those little handheld blenders and zap it in a glass of wine for a couple of seconds. Let the wine settle for a minute until normal and supposedly most of the sulfites will be gone. Don't know if it is true but I do not get headaches after doing this. It may just be that the Europeans put less sulfites in their wines.
Footnote: Try the technique at home not in a fancy bistro.
< good cheap wines without the sulfites>
Can you give me the address to this place? I leave for Paris December 8th.
Learned a nice little trick regarding sulfites(I suffer from chronic migraines). If you just can't wait for the wine to breath take one of those little handheld blenders and zap it in a glass of wine for a couple of seconds. Let the wine settle for a minute until normal and supposedly most of the sulfites will be gone. Don't know if it is true but I do not get headaches after doing this. It may just be that the Europeans put less sulfites in their wines.
Footnote: Try the technique at home not in a fancy bistro.
Nov 21st, 2005, 06:46 AM
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Hi PN,
I should have said "wine with hardly any sulfites".
Wines that aren't going to be shipped great distances, especially whites, don't require as much stabilization.
Monoprix has a good selection of inexpensivee to moderate wines.
Any of the Nicolas shops will have a good selection of wines at good prices.
I should have said "wine with hardly any sulfites".
Wines that aren't going to be shipped great distances, especially whites, don't require as much stabilization.
Monoprix has a good selection of inexpensivee to moderate wines.
Any of the Nicolas shops will have a good selection of wines at good prices.
Nov 21st, 2005, 07:09 AM
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Re: Wine stores:
For the widest selection of wines in all of Paris, the wine mecca of Lavinia at Place de Madeleine will be hard to beat. Friendly and knowledgeable staff, but the prices can be a bit steeper than some. There are some gems in their bargain bins.
For smaller shops, there is La Derniere Goutte (rue Bourbon le Chateau – 6th) has some hard-to-find wines from small producers at good prices. The owner, Juan Sanches, also owns a fantastic bistro called Fish.
Another small shop with some good bargains is Cave Legrand at rue de la Banque. Good prices with decent selection.
For the widest selection of wines in all of Paris, the wine mecca of Lavinia at Place de Madeleine will be hard to beat. Friendly and knowledgeable staff, but the prices can be a bit steeper than some. There are some gems in their bargain bins.
For smaller shops, there is La Derniere Goutte (rue Bourbon le Chateau – 6th) has some hard-to-find wines from small producers at good prices. The owner, Juan Sanches, also owns a fantastic bistro called Fish.
Another small shop with some good bargains is Cave Legrand at rue de la Banque. Good prices with decent selection.
Nov 21st, 2005, 07:31 AM
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Thanks all
I usually buy my wines at Nicolas. I find their staff to be not so helpful to the stumbling French speaking at the Madeline store.
The most helpful wine store I have ever entered in Paris was "Le Repaire de Bacchus, 88 Rue Montorgueil" Antoine speaks English and after I explained my likes he recommended the best Champagne and wine I've had in France.
I usually buy my wines at Nicolas. I find their staff to be not so helpful to the stumbling French speaking at the Madeline store.
The most helpful wine store I have ever entered in Paris was "Le Repaire de Bacchus, 88 Rue Montorgueil" Antoine speaks English and after I explained my likes he recommended the best Champagne and wine I've had in France.
Nov 21st, 2005, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for the nice comments folks. Some of you regulars have been a help to me along the way.
Ira, I liked your addition of spicy, fragrent olive oil and the blooming spring gardens all around.
Opaldog, I second Ira's suggestion of the Leon de Bruxelles. No reservation, wear what you want anytime of the day or night.
Travelnut, you need to add 6 inches to your height and 100 lbs to have people move out of the way for you. Francophile03 has the right idea....enjoy your day and don't let the small ruin your trip.
Reminder: Transportation strike tonight at 8pm in case your headed this way
Tom
Ira, I liked your addition of spicy, fragrent olive oil and the blooming spring gardens all around.
Opaldog, I second Ira's suggestion of the Leon de Bruxelles. No reservation, wear what you want anytime of the day or night.
Travelnut, you need to add 6 inches to your height and 100 lbs to have people move out of the way for you. Francophile03 has the right idea....enjoy your day and don't let the small ruin your trip.
Reminder: Transportation strike tonight at 8pm in case your headed this way
Tom
Nov 21st, 2005, 08:46 AM
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I dream of the day I can spend that much time in Paris. I just found a great book for shopping there. It's called "Gourmet Shops of Paris" by Pierre Ravel and Christian Sarramon. It has beautiful photos of all of the pastry, wine, chocolate, cheese and gourmet shops along with a guide in the back to get to all of their shops or websites. It got a great review in Food & Wine.
Nov 21st, 2005, 09:00 AM
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I can add a few restaurants to your list:
a) L'Alivi (4me) is a moderately priced, friendly and comfortable restaurant serving Corsican cuisine in the Marais - at 27 rue de la Roi de Sicile. Very convenient if you're exploring the Marais, shopping at BHV or visiting the Hotel de Ville.
b) Baan Boran is a pretty, reasonably priced Thai restaurant that actually prepares moderately spicy food (not spicy enough for those of us who have had great Thai in Thailand or some other Thai restaurant hotspots like Sydney Australia or Toronto Canada, but great after a succession of insipid Thai meals spiced to suit French palates). It's close to the Palais Royale, at 43 rue Montpensier.
c) Perraudin (5th), 157 rue St Jacques. It can be very hard to find good food in the touristy part of the 5th, e.g. down near Pont St Michel, St-Germain etc. Walk south for about 5-10 minutes to this lovely restaurant, which has reasonably priced classic French food (and the service was very pleasant).
All three probably require reservations, unless you show up unfashionably early. Unfortunately, I don't have phone numbers.
We've had quite good luck with the "good value" recommendations in the Paris Zagat - not a single miss so far.
a) L'Alivi (4me) is a moderately priced, friendly and comfortable restaurant serving Corsican cuisine in the Marais - at 27 rue de la Roi de Sicile. Very convenient if you're exploring the Marais, shopping at BHV or visiting the Hotel de Ville.
b) Baan Boran is a pretty, reasonably priced Thai restaurant that actually prepares moderately spicy food (not spicy enough for those of us who have had great Thai in Thailand or some other Thai restaurant hotspots like Sydney Australia or Toronto Canada, but great after a succession of insipid Thai meals spiced to suit French palates). It's close to the Palais Royale, at 43 rue Montpensier.
c) Perraudin (5th), 157 rue St Jacques. It can be very hard to find good food in the touristy part of the 5th, e.g. down near Pont St Michel, St-Germain etc. Walk south for about 5-10 minutes to this lovely restaurant, which has reasonably priced classic French food (and the service was very pleasant).
All three probably require reservations, unless you show up unfashionably early. Unfortunately, I don't have phone numbers.
We've had quite good luck with the "good value" recommendations in the Paris Zagat - not a single miss so far.
Nov 21st, 2005, 09:36 AM
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I enjoyed your thoughts, but think they are a little unrealistic and present Paris as some nirvana for those who haven't been there. Some of the things you say always happen or never happen, do. Like not having to listen to others' loud music on the metro -- this has happened to me just as much in Paris as the US. As to the fact that every waiter in Paris is mature, efficient and likes their job -- not so. There are certainly younger people working as waiters in Paris, some of them are indeed surly and act as if they don't like their jobs. Every single person in Paris is not wonderful and polite. There are lots of rude people there, and punks, and people who do not say excuse me when bumping into you in places. Some even push their way ahead of you.
I am surprised you call Le Dome touristy. It's rather expensive, and I like it, but because it's expensive and not dead central, I have never found that many tourists in it. There are many more tourists at La Coupole down the street, which is larger and cheaper.
I appreciate you liked Paris, but this kind of unreality can be misleading to others.
I am surprised you call Le Dome touristy. It's rather expensive, and I like it, but because it's expensive and not dead central, I have never found that many tourists in it. There are many more tourists at La Coupole down the street, which is larger and cheaper.
I appreciate you liked Paris, but this kind of unreality can be misleading to others.
