We are empty nesters traveling to Italy next May. Would love to have any in-put on the following: LaCalcina in Venice; Farmhouse Rosolaccio in San Gimignano; Hotel Royal Court, Hotel Modigliani, Hotel Fontanella Borghese or Hotel de Torri in Rome. We are walkers and wondered about getting to the main sights in Rome if we stayed in any of the above mentioned. Also, should we get tour guides for the sights? Any information or suggestions would be wonderful. Thanks

We are doing similiar. Our last one leaves for college this Sept. but we are thinking of going to Italy in March. We have never been there and the times when we have used a guide some of the time, it made a difference in finding good food and bathrooms. Still looking into it. We are thinking Venice, Rome, Amalfi Coast and Rome. Problem is frequent flyer seats may determine our dates.

If you do a search on La Calcina you should get a lot of "hits" -- I can highly recommend Hotel due Torri in Rome:

Vicolo del Leonetto, 23
Rome (North of Piazza Navona, South of Piazza Nicosia)

Website: http://www.hotelduetorriroma.com/

(if that is still their website). It was wonderfully located for walking -- we walked EVERYWHERE from there...to the forum, to the Vatican, to the Borgese, to Trasteverre, etc. The rooms are small, the bathrooms are very nice, the service is very good and the breakfasts are fine. We were on the 4th floor, I think, and the view over neighborhood rooftops and top floors was fun. We joined a free tour of the forum, liked the guide so much that we signed up for a tour from the same group of the Vatican the next day. (That one cost about $20 apiece I think -- hard to remember because it was 2001 and the lira was still the currency). There are more formal, slightly more costly tours you can take but that's your choice. I know there are some extraordinary tour operators to choose from and many people here have enjoyed those tours and rave about them (search on Scala Real, for example)

San Gimignano is a small town and some of the hotels you mention may be outside the gates, but I can't comment directly as I've not been there. (We stayed near Monteriggioni with a car and thoroughly enjoyed the region). Tuscany is most easily seen with a car and driving in the country is very easy. In Venice you will walk everywhere and as long as you are staying in Venice, you will understand when you get there that getting lost on foot is required procedure for fun touring.

We stayed at the Fontanella Borghese a couple of years ago and can highly recommend it. (We were originally booked at the Portoguese near Piazza Navonna and were happy to have ended up at the F.B.)

I really liked its location. All the major sights (except Vatican City and Colisseum) seemed to be equal distance in all directions. Because of the layout of the building, there is no car traffic outside your window. Interior noise was minimal, just people speaking too loudly as they walked down the hall. Staff was very helpful with reservations for Domus Aurea, Borghese Gallery, etc. The owner was on-site every day and made a point of chatting with us, giving pointers, asking for feedback, etc. (I'm sure you know she also owns the Due Torri a few blocks away.)

The room itself was very comfortable with in-room climate controls, window shutters and drapes for sunlight control and a very comfortable bed. Bathroom was typically small but well-appointed.

The neighborhood was very nice with several good restaurants within a block.

Jean

I am interested in knowing why you were glad to make the change from the Portoghese to the Fontanella Borghese?

I much prefer the location of the Portoghese and the due Torri, to that of the Fontanella Borghese, and although the due Torri has a friendly owner and some pleasant staff, my experience is that for the same money, the rooms at the Portoghese are nicer. At the due Torri, we had rundown furniture and not very great towels. I've gone back to Portoghese three times, and have yet to return to the due Torri.

Also found the coffee and breakfast better at the Portoghese. I did like the balcony at the due Torri, but it is only worthwhile in nice weather. I thought there was a bit too much noise on these top floor rooms, also.

But I am interested in your input and preferences.

Well, at the time (I've heard things have improved) the staff at the Portogese was very unfriendly, unhelpful and slow in responding to inquiries about a couple of dates we were contemplating. (Inquiries were more than six months in advance due to FF booking. Perhaps they thought I was being too anal in communicating so early.) It was the general tone that turned me off and eventually led to my dropping the hotel from consideration. I haven't seen their rooms, although friends of ours stayed there a few months ago and reported a very nice room and lovely breakfast terrace. I have also not seen the rooms at the Due Torri. (Then again, I'm more concerned with location and helpful staff than the room, as long as it's clean, quiet and comfortable.)

In contrast, the F.B. responded immediately and provided info about room choices that I hadn't even asked for and asked whether we needed reservations re Borghese, Domus Aurea, etc. While there, the staff were a great source of out-of-the-guidebook sights to see, locals-popular restaurants, reservations and even suggestions about places we were visiting after Rome.

I still like the F.B.'s location better, but that's just me and the sights I prefer in Rome.

Thanks Jean

The owner/staff at the FB and dT are certainly friendlier than they are at the Portoghese. I have managed to get everything I needed at the Portoghese, but always had to ask. No offers of extra help there.

I would love to hear about the rooms at the FB... nice beds? furniture? sheets? towels? These things are important to me when the price is as high as it is at these three hotels.

thanks again, debbie

I think the decision to get tour guides or not is very personal. We have friends who would never go without one. We, on the other hand, love to wander on our own..just soaking it in and then read up on it afterwards. Whatever is best for you.

I love Pensione La Calcina and have stayed there twice. It is an absolutely lovely hotel. Do make reservations as soon as possible because it is (deservedly) very popular. www.lacalcina.com

Any specific questions? I'm happy to answer if I know.

For Tuscanlifeedit: It's been a couple of years (and many hotel rooms), but here's what I remember. (You can also look at their website www.fontanellaborghese.com which has a picture of a corner room somewhat similar to ours.)

Blue-grey marble floor (some rooms have wood parquet). Small closet and a wall coat rack. Navy blue/white/wheat (or gold?) color scheme. Good size desk with chair and an upholstered chair. Good lighting (which I find to be rare in Europe). Excellent temp control. Formal drapes and typical Italian heavy shutters on the windows which were fairly new and dual-glazed. I don't remember anything about the bed linens, but I remember the bed and pillows were very comfortable.

Bathroom was small but laid out well with sink and shower at opposite ends, toilet and bidet in the middle on the long wall. The shower was small but had a door, not a plastic curtain. The single sink had little counter space, but I think there was a glass shelf at the bottom of the mirror. The floor, walls and counter were all either white marble or ceramic tiles. The towels were numerous and high quality, all the thin Italian type. There was a towel warmer which came in handy when I did some laundry. Nice selection of complimentary bath amenities.

Our room faced the back with a tiny street below, but no traffic noise.

Our room's decor was not what I call "Conde Nast Gold List." But I don't pick our hotels for a "hotel experience." They are only a means to an end of experiencing a place. When all things appear equal, I decide based on location and staff.