Vonse

I’m looking for input on the Costa Brava segment of a 3-week trip to Spain in September 2021. I’ve come up with an itinerary, with much help from Maribel and her Costa Brava guide. We’ll be basing ourselves in either Llafranc or Calella de Palafrugell, and will have a car. We don’t want to cram in too much each day and are hoping for a somewhat lazy pace. My first go at an itinerary allowed for 5 days, but it has expanded as I’ve learned more about the area. Our interests are architecture, gardens, moderate walks, beautiful landscapes, wandering through charming and interesting villages or towns, great food and enjoying the sea views.

9/16 (Fri.): Morning flight to BCN from San Sebastian, pick up car and drive to Llafranc (or Calella de Palafrugell). Walk the Cami de Ronda between the two.

9/17: Walk from Callela de Palafrugell to Gardens of Cap Roig. Drive to Palamos for lunch of red prawns at La Salinera, or go to Palamos for dinner at La Menta

9/18: Visit Palafrugell – Sunday market; lunch at Restaurant La Xicra

9/19: Visit Begur - lunch at Galena Mas Comangau

9/20: Loop drive to medieval towns of the Baix Empordà – Pals, Peratallada, Monells, Palau-Sator, Ullastret. Lunch: paella at Solimar or Vicus restaurant in Pals, or Restaurant Iberic in Ullastret.

9/21: Visit Cadaques – Casa Dali at Port Lligat, lunch at Compartir, stop in L’Escala [anchovies] on way back if there’s time.

9/22: Visit Sa Tuna (lunch at Hotel Gastronomico Sa Tuna), Aigua Blava, Tamariu

9/23: Visit Girona.

9/24: Drive to Barcelona via Tossa de Mar and/or Jardins de Santa Clotilde.

Questions:

1. Is there too much unnecessary driving? My first run at an itinerary was to drive from BCN to Girona, spend the afternoon in Girona and then drive to Cadaques for a few nights. I also thought about spending the first 1 or 2 nights in Girona, driving to Cadaques from there and then head to Llafranc from Cadaques.

2. Does my grouping of activities make sense? I can’t tell if I’m cramming in too much each day, or if this itinerary is too slow. We generally don’t head out until mid or late morning and plan to spend late afternoons lounging on the hotel terrace or beach, before walking to dinner.

3. Will restaurants be open at this time of year? Any additional restaurant suggestions?

I know this is long. Thanks for reading – I appreciate any and all input!
Leslie

Maribel

Hi Leslie,
We love a lazy pace on the Costa Brava as well.
About Friday, 9/16: On the weekends in September you still may have quite a bit of traffic with Barcelona residents heading for the coast, so just be prepared for that. Mid-September is still a popular time, as the weather tends still to be very nice.

Saturday, 9/17: Sounds fine, especially trying the excellent red prawns in Palamós. Another traditional family-run restaurant there, with a nod from the Repsol guide, is La Gamba. I can’t compare the 3 for you, so just go with whatever menu seems the most appealing to you.

Restaurant La Gamba | Palamos (Girona) 50é Aniversari.

Sunday, 9/18: I love the lively Sunday market in Palafrugell. And the town has an excellent gourmet delicatessen, SERRA, with a fine selection of Empordà wines.

Hepasa "Pastisseria Serra".

Monday, 9/19: We really have enjoyed Galena Mas Comangau and find it well priced.

Tuesday, 9/20: I haven’t dined in Pals recently but I have enjoyed very much the Restaurant Ibèric, with its traditional Empordá dishes, after a visit to the Poblat Ibèric outside of Ullastret.

(For a **great paella, served in a rectangular pan, that all the local chefs praise, you have Toc al Mar, now open year round, on the beach below the Aiguablava Parador—https://www.tocalmar.cat/).

Wednesday, 9/21: Advance reservations necessary at Dali’s house, but I’m sure you already know that 😀. Lunch at Compartir-yum!

Thursday, 9/22: Sounds great. Sa Tuna makes great llauna rice dishes as well, such as their black rice with squid.

Friday, 9/23: Girona, slowly enjoyed, should take most of an entire day. The Roca brothers just opened a casual dining spot in Girona called “Normal”.

https://www.finedininglovers.com/art...-normal-girona

Question 1: You might consider split up the drive from BCN to the Llafranc-Calella de Palafrugell with an overnight in Girona, but….. then again, it would be more relaxing, I think, to go straight to your hotel, then save Girona for 9/23, having the entire day to see the sights in depth.

Question 2: I think your grouping is fine. You may not get all of the "medieval towns driving loop" accomplished with a late morning start but you’ll get a nice overview even if you need to drop Monells, the furthest one.

Question 3: Yes, restaurants should be wide open in September but check their web sites just to make sure. For Begur the excellent tourist office will give you a list of restaurants open for the month of September. Even in early January we had enough dining options in the Begur area.

Vonse

Thanks so much Maribel! I'm finding it very difficult to find detailed information on the Costa Brava so your information is invaluable and greatly appreciated.
Leslie

Maribel

Leslie,
Regarding the medieval villages of the Baix Empordà loop, I would make as your priorities Peratallada and Pals and they are the most atmospheric and impressive as in picture postcard pretty.

Vonse

Good to know, thanks!

neckervd

There are fast trains between San Sebastian and Barcelona too. Fares start around 30 EUR/pax

JulieVikmanis

In Llafranc we enjoyed staying at both the Hotel Llevant right on the coast and El Far at the lighthouse above it. For restaurants, I'd say, whatever Maribel recommends. Her recommendations worked fantastically well for us.

Vonse

We're booked at Hotel Llevant. I'm so excited!

Maribel

Perfect, Vonse!

And thanks so much, Julie!