Driving from Costa Brava to Costa Verde

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Nov 4th, 2002, 08:34 AM

Aimee

Guest

Posts: n/a

Driving from Costa Brava to Costa Verde

My family of 4 (kids ages 6 and 8) are in the process of planning a trip to Spain for July 2003. We fly into Barcelona, plan to stay in Aiguablava and Collioure for a few days, and then head to San Sebastian (and Bilbao) before Salamanca, Avila, Segovia and flying home from Madrid. What is the best route from Costa Brava to Costa Verde as far as ease of drive and sights to see? I see a few options: 1)drive across the south of France 2)drive partway thru France, down thru Andorra to La Seu D' Urgell the Huesca to San San Sebastian 3) drive Collioure to La Seu d'Urgell Thank you.

Nov 4th, 2002, 01:08 PM

AmyH

Guest

Posts: n/a

Aimee- I suggest that you do a search of these posts. Put in either Basque or Barcelona to San Sebastian. Maribel may be traveling, but she has the best posts regarding the itinerary you propose. If you haven't booked the parador at Aiguablava yet, do so now. Many will suggest that you follow the pyrenees on the Spanish side through La Seu. Maribel recommends Honderrabia and several recommendations in SS. For us, we are traveling with a 9 and 8 yr old. Due to time constraints we are going to Honderrabia (parador), Picos de Europa (another parador in Cangas de Onis), down to Laguardia and the Rioja area and then back through, Pamplona, Irun to St. Jean de Pied de Port before flying out of Toulouse. The other posters here are fabulous and reading them will save you lots of time and give you many,many suggestions.

Nov 4th, 2002, 04:57 PM

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Hi Aimee (and AmyH), We spent the first portion of our 6 wk. summer trip in the area of Aiguablava-Collioure-Seu before heading on to our annual stay in the Basque Country. Both Aiguablava and Collioure are *extremely* popular in July, so for both I would book hotels far, far ahead. (I tried in early Jan. for the Aiguablava Parador and for the Casa Pairal in Collioure in late June to no avail). We used Collioure as our base to tour French Catalonia, making day trips to adorable (and very Spanish) Ceret, the real jewel of those parts, to Prats-de-Mollo, to Villefranche-de-Confluent, where we took a Disney-esque, thrill-a-minute, 1 1/2 hr. rail journey on the little yellow train ("the Pyrenees metro&quot

up to Mount Louis that your children would absolutely love! All kids adore this ride!. It's the Ter 16, "le petit train jeune" -see schedule at www.ter-sncf.com/languedoc Before or after the ride, you can take a quick jeep tour (picks you up at the Villefranche station) up to the Fort Liberia, towering over medieval walled Villefranche. Would also be fun for your kids. If you'll be driving to San Sebastian/Bilbao from Collioure, and you want the quickest, simplest route, then take the pretty N 117 through Foix to the superfast E 80/A 64. You'll have the Pyreness below you, then it gets flat, then the rolling, terribly green, bucolic hills of the Pays Basque from beyond Pau to Bayonne. Speedy/easy. Don't know how many total days you have for your journey (the entire month?), but since you're covering vast ground, you may want just to keep it that simple and fast from French Catalonia to the Basque Country. But if you prefer a more spectacular but time-consuming route with amazing scenery and have an adventurous driver, you could take the very scenic N 116 through the Pyrenees thru Saillagouse and Llo (wow!) down to Puigcerda and the Spanish border (but avoid the wildly hairpin drive to Andorra!). Then at Puigcerda take the N 260 to Seu (another spectacular drive through beautiful Cerdanya), but from Seu the drive gets more complicated. Here you need to take secondary, fairly serpentine roads west from valley to valley, from Seu to Tremp to Graus to Huesca to Jaca to Pamplona, then up the autoroute to San Sebastian. This takes you through the very heart of the Catalan, Aragonese and Navarrran Pyrenees. While truly an awe-inspiring, once-in-a lifetime drive in every respect, scenic even beyond description, with sights galore, it does eat up considerable time. The bottom line on your options: 1) the painless, easiest, quickest route 2) skip Andorra-it's hell to get there 2-3) without Andorra, the most magnificent , always-to-be-remembered journey, but challening to a novice and very slow. You'll need at least 1 overnight on this one. How do your kids feel about long drives through the mountains? Let that be your guide. Hope this helps. Maribel

Nov 26th, 2002, 02:00 PM

ttt

Guest

Posts: n/a

to the top, great scenic drive

Dec 9th, 2002, 05:51 AM

Aimee

Guest

Posts: n/a

Thanks Amy H and Maribel. We do have over 3 weeks to complete our journey. I don't think my kids would be thrilled with more than 2-3 hours a day in the car. I studied your information and other posts and have some more questions on the itinerary from La Seu. We plan to spend 2 nights in La Seu and need a hotel suggestion on where to spend the next evening, either in Tremp or Graus. From there we plan to spend 2 nights in Jaca (again a hotel recommendation would be great). We'll then have 3 nights in Fuenterrabia, see the Guggenheim in Bilbao, and proceed to spend the next 2 nights in Laguardia. After Laguardia we need a place to spend the night on the way to Segovia. Burgos looks interesting but hot. Any ideas? Thanks again! Aimee

Dec 9th, 2002, 12:30 PM

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Aimee, Your 3 week itinerary sounds wonderful! You're hitting some of my very favorite spots in Northern Spain. La Seu: I'd opt for the Parador only because it reopens in May 2003 after a long overdue total refurbishment. Seu's Parador hasn't been a personal favorite-I've found it very ordinary with dated decor, but this rehaul should bring it up to snuff. If for some reason the reopening date is delayed and you can go higher in price, I love the country house hotel Relais Chateaux property, "El Castell" right outside of town next to the castle with beautiful views, tranquility, fab dining, covered pool for your kids, saun, gym. The decor here is European old- fashioned but pleasantly so. Expertly by the Tapies family. Concerts in summer on grounds. www.hotel elcastell.com More pics at www.spanishparadores.com/hotelelcastell.htm Doubles 155, with terrace, 175 All have mountain views. Dowstairs rms with terrace, upstairs are dormer-type cozy with skylight and have just been renovated. Tremp: A friend stayed in July at the unusual "Casa Guilla" (in Alistair Sawaday's Special Places to Stay/Spain and the Duncan Peterson Charming...guide) and raved about it. Only 4 rms! Not for everyone, because it's dramatically perched high atop the mountain, house is a labryinth, some parts 1,000 yrs. old and run "house party" style by caring English hosts (half board is compulsory, communal dining), but intriguing. Former hayloft is a sitting room, the granaries coverted into bedrooms, the stables into the bar. Actually in Santa Engracia, next to the church on the edge of a nature reserve that attracts orinthologists. Other lodging in the Tremp area is quite limited and modest, but it's only 1 night. Jaca: I'd stay at the family-run Conde Aznar (24 rms) with great restaurant, "La Cocina Aragonesa", although Cova may have a different recommendation, as she goes there often. www.jaca.com/conde-aznar I just returned from Laguardia and the Rioja, if you have any questions re lodging there. From Laguardia to Segovia for your overnight: Just did that route and looked for new and exciting lodging but decided that the best bet still is Burgos, even though it's beastly hot in July, but that drive is hot, period. For you, a city will be a nice change of pace after so much mountain and country. You'll have a 2 1/2 hr. max. drive from there to Segovia. In Burgos, I suggest the Hotel Rice. It's convenient, easy to find and quite smart, British elegant decor. Nice dining too. Doubles, 103 Buffet brk. 8 euros It has limited private parking but street parking there is easy to find. Highly recommended by a friend who owns a Spanish tour co.-puts his clients there. 50 rooms www.hotelrice.com Or the business class Melia Confort Fernán González. www.solmelia.com has a special rate in July of 82,50 with brk. included. Garage. Takes groups. Hope this helps.

Dec 9th, 2002, 02:29 PM

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Aimee, Re Tremp area: Forgot! Read more at www.casaguilla.com Also it's one of the selected "Hidden Gems" at www.spainalive.com and a selection of www.secreplaces.com Quite unique but also quite isolated.

Dec 10th, 2002, 02:41 AM

cova

Guest

Posts: n/a

Hi Aimee, I was thinking that, travelling with small children, maybe the Aparthotel Oroel in Jaca would be a good option. http://www.pirineo.com/apartahotel.oroel/ They have studio rooms with place for two adults and two children, and a kitchenette. They also have private garage and a swimming pool, which in July can come handy. On the road to Somport, there is a nice agritourism called "Los Cerezos" http://www.pirineo.com/loscerezos/ It is very near from Jaca, and you can walk into town following the old Saint James Way. Don´t forget to bring the children to Ulzama, in front of the Gran Hotel, for huge ice-creams bowls. I love their "cubano", a glass of "horchata de chufa" with a scoop of chocolate truffle ice-cream. (Maribel, what´s the translation for chufa ?) For restaurants, apart of "La Cocina Aragonesa", I like "Serrablo" (nice people with young children, traditional food with fresh fish coming from the Basque Country) and "Lilium" (although this one can be more elaborate). Rgds, Cova

Dec 10th, 2002, 08:45 AM

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Hi cova, I describe "horchata de chufa" as a creamy, milky-type of drink, of a slightly almond looking color, made of ground tiger nuts (chufas-a tuberous root brought to Spain by the Arabs) that grow in the Valencia region. Where's the best place in Jaca for "jaqueses"? I'll try Llilium for dinner next time. Aimee, Horchata is very refreshing in summer and supposedly rich in minerals and vitamins. Try it-a unique taste, and "horchata" isn't readily found in the US. (I buy from the Spanish Table.com-Seattle, Santa Fe, Berkeley) In Jaca, Cova's right. The Apartahotel with the pool might be a better/cheaper option for your family, simple but more functional. Same chain as the Gran Hotel. Also see it at www.inturmark.es/oroelsp.htm About Tremp Besides the Casa Guilla, I think I found a much better family option below Tremp: the resort-like Hotel Els Terradets in Cellers, just 19 km. down south, on a beautiful lake. Pool, lots to do. www.hotelterradets.com/galeria.htm

Dec 10th, 2002, 08:50 AM

#10

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Me again. On the drive from Laguardia to Segovia, instead of taking exit 99 of the NI/E5 to Segovia, I recommend you exit before, at Boceguillas and take the "comarcales", the very paved and less trafficked back roads that wind their way down, first through Sepúveda, a striking cream colored town dramatically perched on the Duratón river gorge, then on the SG 2322 down to Condado de Castilnovo, where you'll see in the distance a very well restored 14th c brick private castle in a park, then on to Pedraza de la Sierra, one of Spain's very prettiest and purest medieval towns where you'll want to look around. It's picture card perfect, like a movie set, frozen in the 16th century, even has a castle open Wed-Sun, a medieval jail with dungeon open on wkds. plus lots of classy artisan shops and a great little bakery, La Tahona, that makes yummy little treats for the road and a nice gourmet shop, Atalanzar on Calle Real. for everything great the region has to offer. If you have time and your family enjoys nature walks, there are 2 spectacular ones (each would take 1 hr. total): from Sepúlveda, take the road to Segovia but detour after a km. to Villar, then 10 km. to Villaseca. Take a left immediately before the church onto a gravely road (big enough for tour busses) down 5 km. to a parking lot. You'll be in the heart of the gorgeous Las Hoces del Duratón National Park-think Grand Canyon on a smaller scale without the crowds, souvenir stands, helicopters. Total peace. Just down below the car park, you'll see the Hermitage of San Frutos floating on an island between the canyon ridges and hundreds of vultures soaring on the warm air currents above you, plus the only sound will be of bells from the sheep grazing on the hills in the distance. This is a magical spot. See www.fuenterrebollo.com/rutabuitre.html Or from Pedraza you could drive on to Navafría, go down the main street until you reach the intersection with a road that goes to the Puerto of Lozoya, take a right on to that road. After a km. follow signs to the right to the "área recreativa El chorro, where you have one of the prettiest spots of the whole Sierra of Guadarrama. Leve your car in the lot (4 euros) and walk a 1 km path thru a pine forest that will take you to wood bridge where you'll see a 100 m high waterfall, the Chorro de Navafría (20 min. walk). Then back to the village and on to Segovia down the N 110 through Sotosalbos, which has a very pretty Romanesque San Miguel church with porch (where Madrid couples like to get married) and Torrecaballeros, the town of the many roasting taverns, where everyone goes on wkds for roast lamb. This is a much more picturesque route than the main road.

Dec 11th, 2002, 05:29 AM

#11

aimee

Guest

Posts: n/a

Thank you Maribel and Cova for your excellent suggestions. Collioure: I put requests to many of the hotels (incl. Casa Pairal) and only 1 replied with a family room, Princes de Catalogne for $100 euros. Would it be an acceptable hotel? La Seu: For now, we are booked in 2 rooms in the parador as the quad is booked. Any other hotel suggestions? Tremp: The Hotel Els Terradets in Cellars looks stunning and I have requested a room. Jaca: Am also trying for the Apartahotel/Oroel. Pool and laundry will be most welcome at that point in the drive. Hondarribia: Have learned that the Hotel Pampinot is not wild about having children in their hotel and we'd have to get 2 rooms. Marketing Ahead is booking our paradors for us and are waiting to hear from the parador in Hondarribia. Laguardia: Maribel, I read your entry of 1/31/00 about the town and the 3 inss (miguel de migueloa, antigue bodega de don cosme palacio and castillo el collado). Do you know if any have family rooms? Burgos: The Hotel Rice has a family room for $100 euros and they spoke english! We'll definitely scout out the route you suggested on the way to Segovia. Segovia: The parador for a family is $350 a night. I'm trying to keep it under $200 a night. Any second choices on hotels for a family? We could also stay in Avila instead. Thank you again! I love all of your suggestions for hotels, food and drives. Please know your efforts are appreciated and you make planning possible and even enjoyable!

Dec 11th, 2002, 08:44 AM

#12

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Hi Aimee, So glad to have found the hotel in Cellers, as it's a much better family choice. About Collioure: This past July, because our first choice, the Casa Parail was booked, we stayed at the Relais de Trois Mas, a selection of chateauxhotels.com, but the obligatory half-board in high season (exquisite cuisine though) makes it a very, very pricey choice for 4. I don't remeber seeing the Princes de Catalogne. You might also check the Madeloc (www.madeloc.com) with terrace rooms for 77 euros and tiny pool plus parking on a quiet side street , or the impressionist art-filled Hostellerie des Templiers right on the quai (www.hotel-templiers.com), which is less exp, just to compare. But neither seems to have family rooms, just low tariffs for high season. Finding lodging in Collioure in July is often very problematic. La Seu: I would stick with the Parador. Has an indoor pool and the best choice in town, since El Castell is more $$. But if you want to economize and don't mind something simpler, there's the friendly and family run 2 star La Gorieta, right below El Castell, with dining and pool, We stayed there once on a tighter budget and loved the scenery and hearty mountain cuisine. Cheap but quite comfortable. See it here: www.casafonda.com/fonda_en.asp?codi=12 The Tremp, Jaca and Burgos choices are perfect. Hondarribia: I think you'll love the castle Parador and find Hondarribia the perfect little Basque fishing village/family resort. We stay in Hondarribia for a week every July at an agrotourism home. If the Parador doesn't come through, let me know, and I'll give you some great, inexpensive alternatives. Laguardia, Just returned from there, and I still like my friend's Castillo del Collado best, but it's antique and artifact filled, sumptuously designer done (down to the elaborately painted radiators), very unique-looks like a miniature castle complete with turret. Elegant. But I don't know about family rooms-probably need to book 2 rooms. But you may not be looking for that type of place. If it seems a bit much, I'd choose the Antigua Bodega de don Cosme Palacios, right below the village next to the Palacios winery. Small and very quaint. The "Glorioso" and "Castillo" rooms accomodate 4. Take a look at www.secretplaces.com They have a new French chef whose cooking has received nice reviews. It now far surpasses the Miguel de Migueloa, I think (particularly in the housekeeping dept.) Yes, you could stay in the Avila Parador instead, which is what we did last June with friends for 3 days to tour the city of Segovia and the province, but... for a family, Segovia's very modern, Swiss chalet looking Parador has a pool, gardens, even tennis courts, which might serve you better in the heat of July. It's 2 km. outside of town but has fantastic views of the city. Other small/nice/charming/well-priced options in town: Los Linajes, tucked away next to the walls with pretty views of the countryside and Infanta Isabel, right on the Plaza Mayor. Both similarly priced and can be found in the Karen Brown guide.

Dec 11th, 2002, 08:47 AM

#13

Maribel

Guest

Posts: n/a

Me again, one last time! hope you can see some of the Duratón gorge on your way down to Segovia. The walk down to the little Romanesque Ermita de San Frutos is easy (it actually sits at the end of a small penninsula, not an island, above a loop in the river and surrounded on 3 sides by its beautiful green waters), and the river will surely be filled with kayaks then. If you do decide to make this wonderful excursion, here's a map to get you there from Sepúlveda: http://www.a-segovia.com/rutas-4/hoc..._duraton-2.gif Also in July even mid-week the shops and sights in beautiful Pedraza should be open (even the 13th c jail). And the 18th c Bourbon dynasty Palace gardens (like a mini Versailles) at San Ildefonso de la Granja, just 11 km. southeast of Segovia are another real treat! Hope this helps in your planning.