Ger’s Paris Trip Report: February 2017
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Nikki, so sorry you missed out, but it might have been for the best. It would have been a doubly awful experience for you when you were ill.
You know how it is, you cannot view Vermeer from a distance - you have to get up close to appreciate the detail.
Thank you dear Mimi
Thank you Sue. I will look forward to reading your Dordogne report - i is such a magical area. I will be in Antwerp in April for two days, and considering adding a vacation day in Gent.
You know how it is, you cannot view Vermeer from a distance - you have to get up close to appreciate the detail.
Thank you dear Mimi
Thank you Sue. I will look forward to reading your Dordogne report - i is such a magical area. I will be in Antwerp in April for two days, and considering adding a vacation day in Gent.
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Ger, I am enjoying your trip report in lieu of a visit to Paris this year. We opted to take advantage of the low GBP exchange rate and go to the UK in May.
Les raboteurs de parquet- One of my favorites!!
We spend several nights in Normandy in September and really enjoyed it. Amazingly they are still repairing the Cathedral from damage during WWII. We loved the Joan d'Arc church as well.
Les raboteurs de parquet- One of my favorites!!
We spend several nights in Normandy in September and really enjoyed it. Amazingly they are still repairing the Cathedral from damage during WWII. We loved the Joan d'Arc church as well.
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<Les raboteurs de parquet- One of my favorites!! >
Isn't it wonderful when two strangers can find common ground over a painting. Had I had the talent, I felt I could have written a short story on this painting - unfortunately, I don't have the talent.
Isn't it wonderful when two strangers can find common ground over a painting. Had I had the talent, I felt I could have written a short story on this painting - unfortunately, I don't have the talent.
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Friday 24th February: A Pilgrimage to Chartres – Part 1
I was very cranky the previous night, after my disappointment with the Louvre and the Vermeer exhibition but, after a soak in the bath and a good night’s sleep, I was up like the Energizer Bunny early next morning, eager with anticipation at visiting Chartres.
Taking the bus around the corner to Gare Montparnasse took 20 minutes, and the journey to Chartres took 70 minutes, costing 18 Euros. This is a perfectly wonderful day trip from Paris.
I had planned this day to Chartres around the possibility of sunshine, a challenge in February, and had checked the weather reports frequently, before I arrived and when I arrived, to ensure a high probability that that day would be sunny.
I was not disappointed – I stepped off the train into glorious sunshine, which continued for most of the day.
It is just a short walk from the train station to the Cathedral, and there were only a few tourists wandering into the square.
Sun and blue skies, absence of hoards, a glorious Cathedral façade in front on you, and the promise of delights inside to explore.
How much more splendid can a Friday morning be than that?
Here are my pictures of Chartres Cathedral
pix.sfly.com/aS8zYpVo
And other references for your information:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chartres_Cathedral
http://www.cathedrale-chartres.org/en/,143.html
You don’t need to be Catholic, or even religious, to worship this beautiful gem: You just need to appreciate art and beauty, and the craftsmanship that created it. Of all of the Cathedrals on this trip, this one was definitely my favourite. There is a lightness and joyousness about it.
There is no need for me to go into detail of its history, as I have provided all detail in the links above.
Similar to St. Denis, they have begun to clean up the muck of ages off the stone inside to reveal the reflective lightness of the original interior.
There are so many highlights to see, you can easily spend a couple of hours worshiping the artistry of this church. Don’t miss the series of engravings in monumental screen around the choir – look UP and enjoy.
It is also a church, and I am a Catholic, so there were many candles lit, and prayers said, for my family and dear friends (IRL and Internet), particularly for those suffering the trials of cancer.
Next: Wandering around Chartres
I was very cranky the previous night, after my disappointment with the Louvre and the Vermeer exhibition but, after a soak in the bath and a good night’s sleep, I was up like the Energizer Bunny early next morning, eager with anticipation at visiting Chartres.
Taking the bus around the corner to Gare Montparnasse took 20 minutes, and the journey to Chartres took 70 minutes, costing 18 Euros. This is a perfectly wonderful day trip from Paris.
I had planned this day to Chartres around the possibility of sunshine, a challenge in February, and had checked the weather reports frequently, before I arrived and when I arrived, to ensure a high probability that that day would be sunny.
I was not disappointed – I stepped off the train into glorious sunshine, which continued for most of the day.
It is just a short walk from the train station to the Cathedral, and there were only a few tourists wandering into the square.
Sun and blue skies, absence of hoards, a glorious Cathedral façade in front on you, and the promise of delights inside to explore.
How much more splendid can a Friday morning be than that?
Here are my pictures of Chartres Cathedral
pix.sfly.com/aS8zYpVo
And other references for your information:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chartres_Cathedral
http://www.cathedrale-chartres.org/en/,143.html
You don’t need to be Catholic, or even religious, to worship this beautiful gem: You just need to appreciate art and beauty, and the craftsmanship that created it. Of all of the Cathedrals on this trip, this one was definitely my favourite. There is a lightness and joyousness about it.
There is no need for me to go into detail of its history, as I have provided all detail in the links above.
Similar to St. Denis, they have begun to clean up the muck of ages off the stone inside to reveal the reflective lightness of the original interior.
There are so many highlights to see, you can easily spend a couple of hours worshiping the artistry of this church. Don’t miss the series of engravings in monumental screen around the choir – look UP and enjoy.
It is also a church, and I am a Catholic, so there were many candles lit, and prayers said, for my family and dear friends (IRL and Internet), particularly for those suffering the trials of cancer.
Next: Wandering around Chartres
#85
thank you Ger [you know what for].
we spent a very nice morning in Chartres a few years ago and had a lovely lunch in a brasserie opposite the main entrance, where DS was introduced to his first french onion soup. I wouldn't mind going back and seeing it again, but until then, I'll read your descriptions in stead.
we spent a very nice morning in Chartres a few years ago and had a lovely lunch in a brasserie opposite the main entrance, where DS was introduced to his first french onion soup. I wouldn't mind going back and seeing it again, but until then, I'll read your descriptions in stead.
#87
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Friday 24th February: A Pilgrimage to Chartres – Part 2
An unexpected and delightful surprise was the Stained-Glass Museum, which I visited after leaving the Cathedral. Highly recommended.
http://www.centre-vitrail.org/en/
My Pictures:
pix.sfly.com/Uw3pk7Qm
I made my way to the Tourist Office:
http://www.chartres-tourisme.com/en
Excellent service, and I was very delighted that they allowed me to speak my appalling French to them. I rented the audio- guide to explore the town.
Somewhere in the middle of my exploration, I had a very good lunch.
Here are my picture of Wandering around Chartres Historical Centre:
pix.sfly.com/E_9-R-dJ
It was a delightful day, and I explored every nook and cranny of the town.
I adored Chartres, and wished I had stayed overnight to enjoy wandering around the town in the evening.
Back to the train station in time for my train back to Paris.
Reflections on the trip to Chartres:
It is another perfect day trip from Paris, but also deserves an overnight stay. I was lucky to be there on a sunny day in February, but it might be a tad over-crowded in the tourist season.
An unexpected and delightful surprise was the Stained-Glass Museum, which I visited after leaving the Cathedral. Highly recommended.
http://www.centre-vitrail.org/en/
My Pictures:
pix.sfly.com/Uw3pk7Qm
I made my way to the Tourist Office:
http://www.chartres-tourisme.com/en
Excellent service, and I was very delighted that they allowed me to speak my appalling French to them. I rented the audio- guide to explore the town.
Somewhere in the middle of my exploration, I had a very good lunch.
Here are my picture of Wandering around Chartres Historical Centre:
pix.sfly.com/E_9-R-dJ
It was a delightful day, and I explored every nook and cranny of the town.
I adored Chartres, and wished I had stayed overnight to enjoy wandering around the town in the evening.
Back to the train station in time for my train back to Paris.
Reflections on the trip to Chartres:
It is another perfect day trip from Paris, but also deserves an overnight stay. I was lucky to be there on a sunny day in February, but it might be a tad over-crowded in the tourist season.
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Saturday 25th February: Quai Branly Museum
My niece C arrived on the previous night and we had a wonderful dinner at Les Papilles. We got home very late.
The plan for today was one museum and a very long lunch.
Thanks to a recommendation from a Foderite, I discoveredd Quai Branly Museum, which displays the indigenous art and cultures of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas.
http://www.quaibranly.fr/en/.
It is simply brilliant! I have not had such fun in a museum since I was a kid. It is brilliantly arranged and offers entertainment for kids of all ages. If you visit Paris with kids, this should be top of your list. The staff are delightful, helpful and well-informed; all well-educated, multilingual and articulate young people from the same ethnicity as the collections. This was certainly one of the highlights of the trip. The gardens in front of the museum are lovely – full of plants and grasses from the regions.
Here are my pictures from the visit:
pix.sfly.com/k61CjwVS
We then had a very long and pleasant lunch at La Fontaine de Mars.
After lunch, we headed to Musée national des arts asiatiques Guimet, but there was a long queue, so we ditched it and decided to visit early the following day.
We headed by taxi to Galeries Lafayette, as C wanted to do some shopping. I browsed, but just bought a lipstick at Dior. C bought a skirt and jumper from a French designer (Caroll maybe?); very chic and very reasonably priced.
Into a taxi and back the hotel.
Next: Saturday Night
My niece C arrived on the previous night and we had a wonderful dinner at Les Papilles. We got home very late.
The plan for today was one museum and a very long lunch.
Thanks to a recommendation from a Foderite, I discoveredd Quai Branly Museum, which displays the indigenous art and cultures of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas.
http://www.quaibranly.fr/en/.
It is simply brilliant! I have not had such fun in a museum since I was a kid. It is brilliantly arranged and offers entertainment for kids of all ages. If you visit Paris with kids, this should be top of your list. The staff are delightful, helpful and well-informed; all well-educated, multilingual and articulate young people from the same ethnicity as the collections. This was certainly one of the highlights of the trip. The gardens in front of the museum are lovely – full of plants and grasses from the regions.
Here are my pictures from the visit:
pix.sfly.com/k61CjwVS
We then had a very long and pleasant lunch at La Fontaine de Mars.
After lunch, we headed to Musée national des arts asiatiques Guimet, but there was a long queue, so we ditched it and decided to visit early the following day.
We headed by taxi to Galeries Lafayette, as C wanted to do some shopping. I browsed, but just bought a lipstick at Dior. C bought a skirt and jumper from a French designer (Caroll maybe?); very chic and very reasonably priced.
Into a taxi and back the hotel.
Next: Saturday Night
#92
I have a belated contribution to make concerning your visit to the Orangerie (March 18). I saw and spoke with Chaim Soutine's daughter almost every day for 10 years since she was in the same nursing home as my mother.
She was still there at the time my mother died last year, so maybe she is still there.
http://tinyurl.com/chaimsoutine
She was still there at the time my mother died last year, so maybe she is still there.
http://tinyurl.com/chaimsoutine
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Kerouac, that thread of yours was one of the nicest and most touching things I have ever read! That is a classic.
I strongly urge everyone who is following this thread to do yourself a favor and click on Kerouac's link for a neat read.
I strongly urge everyone who is following this thread to do yourself a favor and click on Kerouac's link for a neat read.
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What a wonderful trip story Ger - loved all the food descriptions . I really loved Quai Branly museum - best views of Eiffel Tower in its gardens .
Kerouac - your narrative about Madame Sortine is very moving .
Kerouac - your narrative about Madame Sortine is very moving .
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Hello Ger, what a fantastic report. We are going to be in Paris for 3 days in Sept and will try several of your restaurant recommendations!
Someone mentioned a trip report of yours regarding Dordogne. We are going to follow Paris with a week near Perigueux. I can't find your TR...can you help?
Someone mentioned a trip report of yours regarding Dordogne. We are going to follow Paris with a week near Perigueux. I can't find your TR...can you help?
#97
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Hello lovetotravel:
My Dordogne trip report is ancient - 2004, so I not sure it will of much use to you. Certainly disregard the recommendation for L'Esplanade - was there on a follow-up trip and I was disappointed with the food in comparison with the 2004 visit. Photo link is no longer available.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-dordogne.cfm
Kerouac: Thank you for that link - it is very touching. There is something about Soutine's portraits that reminds me of El Greco. There is that tortured soul reflected in the face.
My Dordogne trip report is ancient - 2004, so I not sure it will of much use to you. Certainly disregard the recommendation for L'Esplanade - was there on a follow-up trip and I was disappointed with the food in comparison with the 2004 visit. Photo link is no longer available.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-dordogne.cfm
Kerouac: Thank you for that link - it is very touching. There is something about Soutine's portraits that reminds me of El Greco. There is that tortured soul reflected in the face.
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