Ger’s Paris Trip Report: February 2017
Mar 18th, 2017, 07:38 AM
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Loving your trip report and, being from the Seattle area, especially enjoyed your rain classification link. It fits us to a T. I will try to adapt the classifications to our own weather, because the terms we use here employ a many more curse words. 
Mar 18th, 2017, 09:23 AM
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Wednesday 22nd February: Museo de Orsay, Musée de l'Orangerie, Marmottan
I was up early, took the bus around the corner directly to the Museo de Orsay (20 minutes).
It was very chilly and blowy, and I hoped that I would not have to line up too long to get in. I KNEW it was going to be a GREAT day when the line-up consisted entirely of five Korean girls. I was in the museum in a heart-beat, after obligatory bag search, which is now compulsory at all museums, for obvious reasons.
I bought the combined ticket for the Museo de Orsay, and Musée de l'Orangerie.
Musée de l'Orangerie
http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/home.html
Here are my pictures:
pix.sfly.com/B6rrsv6q
I was so excited, my heart beating out of my chest, I forgot to pick up the map and, instead of heading straight up to the top floor to start with the Impressionists, I started on the 2nd floor, with the Post-Impressionists. I then visited the extraordinary Rodin statuary. Then the Art Nouveau rooms, which I have visited before: What an extraordinary exhibition of the best pieces of interior design, furniture and artefacts from this very brief moment in history.
Then, onwards up to the top floor to see the Impressionist galleries. The layout is wonderful – there is plenty of space to enjoy the paintings, and the galleries were relatively empty, so I had a very enjoyable visit. I have been here several times before, and familiar with the artists and paintings.
Regardless of how many times I have seen the paintings, their effect on me never diminishes: It is always a superb and exciting experience.
Perhaps there are two paintings that I will call out – maybe I did not see them before, or maybe I did not appreciate them before. They are not in any way the best paintings in the galleries, just the ones that called out to me on the day, as I was so very familiar with all the others.
Camille on Her Death Bed by Claude Monet. It made me weep. His grief is palpable and heart-breaking:
http://blog.sevenponds.com/soulful-e...ude-monet-1879
Les raboteurs de parquet: It seems out of place in the gallery, hyper-realistic and prophetic and, also, to me, I saw a potential of revolution and a new world order.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_raboteurs_de_parquet
The gallery was filling up and getting very noisy, and I was not must interested in the statuary and paintings in the lower floors.
So, I made my way to the Musée de l'Orangerie, just 15 minutes’ walk away.
Next: Musée de l'Orangerie
I was up early, took the bus around the corner directly to the Museo de Orsay (20 minutes).
It was very chilly and blowy, and I hoped that I would not have to line up too long to get in. I KNEW it was going to be a GREAT day when the line-up consisted entirely of five Korean girls. I was in the museum in a heart-beat, after obligatory bag search, which is now compulsory at all museums, for obvious reasons.
I bought the combined ticket for the Museo de Orsay, and Musée de l'Orangerie.
Musée de l'Orangerie
http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/home.html
Here are my pictures:
pix.sfly.com/B6rrsv6q
I was so excited, my heart beating out of my chest, I forgot to pick up the map and, instead of heading straight up to the top floor to start with the Impressionists, I started on the 2nd floor, with the Post-Impressionists. I then visited the extraordinary Rodin statuary. Then the Art Nouveau rooms, which I have visited before: What an extraordinary exhibition of the best pieces of interior design, furniture and artefacts from this very brief moment in history.
Then, onwards up to the top floor to see the Impressionist galleries. The layout is wonderful – there is plenty of space to enjoy the paintings, and the galleries were relatively empty, so I had a very enjoyable visit. I have been here several times before, and familiar with the artists and paintings.
Regardless of how many times I have seen the paintings, their effect on me never diminishes: It is always a superb and exciting experience.
Perhaps there are two paintings that I will call out – maybe I did not see them before, or maybe I did not appreciate them before. They are not in any way the best paintings in the galleries, just the ones that called out to me on the day, as I was so very familiar with all the others.
Camille on Her Death Bed by Claude Monet. It made me weep. His grief is palpable and heart-breaking:
http://blog.sevenponds.com/soulful-e...ude-monet-1879
Les raboteurs de parquet: It seems out of place in the gallery, hyper-realistic and prophetic and, also, to me, I saw a potential of revolution and a new world order.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_raboteurs_de_parquet
The gallery was filling up and getting very noisy, and I was not must interested in the statuary and paintings in the lower floors.
So, I made my way to the Musée de l'Orangerie, just 15 minutes’ walk away.
Next: Musée de l'Orangerie
Mar 18th, 2017, 10:59 AM
#66
This might help you understand the Irish relationship with rain, ‘tongue in cheek’ obviously
>
you've missed one that "we" cornish frequently suffer from Ger - "lazy rain" - the sort that comes at you sideways and can't be bothered to go round.
We went to Rouen with our kids once and stayed a night, though I'm not not sure that we achieved more than you did in a day. Anyway it was very nice. What I most remember are the numerous florists [some of them selling silk flowers which were exceptionally beautiful] and the very nice lady in a boutique down a side street who sold me and DD her first proper jacket. She has been hooked on them since.
I'm loving your trip report Ger - not such a long gap to the next instalment please!
>you've missed one that "we" cornish frequently suffer from Ger - "lazy rain" - the sort that comes at you sideways and can't be bothered to go round.
We went to Rouen with our kids once and stayed a night, though I'm not not sure that we achieved more than you did in a day. Anyway it was very nice. What I most remember are the numerous florists [some of them selling silk flowers which were exceptionally beautiful] and the very nice lady in a boutique down a side street who sold me and DD her first proper jacket. She has been hooked on them since.
I'm loving your trip report Ger - not such a long gap to the next instalment please!
Mar 18th, 2017, 11:46 AM
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<you've missed one that "we" cornish frequently suffer from Ger - "lazy rain" - the sort that comes at you sideways and can't be bothered to go round. >
HAHA - Good one Ann!
I didn't know whether I should discus the rain in detail. It is clearly important to US, that live with it all the time. I am really encouraged that you and nukesafe appreciate the effort and understand the nuances of RAIN! Travelers coming from Arizona might think there was only ONE type of rain.
I will make a stellar effort to keep going. Stay tuned for the next installment!
Best regards ... Ger
HAHA - Good one Ann!
I didn't know whether I should discus the rain in detail. It is clearly important to US, that live with it all the time. I am really encouraged that you and nukesafe appreciate the effort and understand the nuances of RAIN! Travelers coming from Arizona might think there was only ONE type of rain.
I will make a stellar effort to keep going. Stay tuned for the next installment!
Best regards ... Ger
Mar 18th, 2017, 01:13 PM
#68
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Musée de l'Orangerie
http://www.musee-orangerie.fr/en
My Pictures:
pix.sfly.com/0U4WX7ik
There was no line-up at the museum, I waked straight in, and it was almost empty – how much better can it get than that!
Those travellers to Paris in the winter months, who miss out on visiting Claude Monet’s delightful Giverny, can take comfort in Musée de l'Orangerie and swim in his glorious pond.
I had forgotten how wonderfully atmospheric these rooms are: I was a water sprite, sitting on a lily-pad, looking from the centre outward, and it was glorious.
But, there is more to see. Admittedly, I was familiar with most of the artists, and had seen most of the paintings before on previous visits, but today, I discovered two artists that I had never seen before. I was delighted! They are diametrically opposed, but my tastes have always been eclectic.
Marie Laurenin:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Laurencin
Soft colours of pink, grey and mauve. Delicate and ethereal minimalist portraits of strong women, from a woman’s perspective. Perhaps not considered great art, perhaps it is more ‘Graphic Design’, but I loved the paintings anyway.
Chaim Soutine
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaim_Soutine
Disturbing and gut-wrenching, but quite brilliant IMO.
Since coming home, I have order books on both so I can learn more.
It was overcast and cold as Hades when I left the museum. I took the Metro to the restaurant, and had an exceptional lunch in Pottoka before my visit to the Marmottan.
The bus ride to the Marmottan was marvellous: A bus-trip through the 16th arr, and a vision of divine buildings that almost all of us could not possibly afford to rent or buy.
This is the Paris of the VERY ‘well-heeled’: The left-overs of the Ancien Régime, the ‘Old Money’, the Diplomats, the Nouveau riche, the oil-rich decadent Arabs potentates and the Russian Mafia overlords. It is like a stroll through Mayfair! Where CAN one get a functioning Guillotine these days and how can one excite a mob to extricate the useless detritus?
It is OK: You are very safe – it is very unlikely the Russian Mafia take the bus.
The Marmottan
http://www.marmottan.fr/
This would be my third visit to the Marmotttan. I came for two reasons:
• The Claude Monet permanent exhibition, continuing a theme, and worth visiting for that alone
• The Pissarro exhibition
Well, I buggered the latter up: It was opening next day!
I was very happy with the permeant collection, and completely enjoyed my visit. Not to be missed if a fan of Monet.
It had been a fairly long day. I took the bus back to somewhere around St. Michel, and walked another 20 minutes back to the hotel.
Tomorrow: The Louvre and Cité de l'architecture et du patrimoine
http://www.musee-orangerie.fr/en
My Pictures:
pix.sfly.com/0U4WX7ik
There was no line-up at the museum, I waked straight in, and it was almost empty – how much better can it get than that!
Those travellers to Paris in the winter months, who miss out on visiting Claude Monet’s delightful Giverny, can take comfort in Musée de l'Orangerie and swim in his glorious pond.
I had forgotten how wonderfully atmospheric these rooms are: I was a water sprite, sitting on a lily-pad, looking from the centre outward, and it was glorious.
But, there is more to see. Admittedly, I was familiar with most of the artists, and had seen most of the paintings before on previous visits, but today, I discovered two artists that I had never seen before. I was delighted! They are diametrically opposed, but my tastes have always been eclectic.
Marie Laurenin:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Laurencin
Soft colours of pink, grey and mauve. Delicate and ethereal minimalist portraits of strong women, from a woman’s perspective. Perhaps not considered great art, perhaps it is more ‘Graphic Design’, but I loved the paintings anyway.
Chaim Soutine
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaim_Soutine
Disturbing and gut-wrenching, but quite brilliant IMO.
Since coming home, I have order books on both so I can learn more.
It was overcast and cold as Hades when I left the museum. I took the Metro to the restaurant, and had an exceptional lunch in Pottoka before my visit to the Marmottan.
The bus ride to the Marmottan was marvellous: A bus-trip through the 16th arr, and a vision of divine buildings that almost all of us could not possibly afford to rent or buy.
This is the Paris of the VERY ‘well-heeled’: The left-overs of the Ancien Régime, the ‘Old Money’, the Diplomats, the Nouveau riche, the oil-rich decadent Arabs potentates and the Russian Mafia overlords. It is like a stroll through Mayfair! Where CAN one get a functioning Guillotine these days and how can one excite a mob to extricate the useless detritus?
It is OK: You are very safe – it is very unlikely the Russian Mafia take the bus.
The Marmottan
http://www.marmottan.fr/
This would be my third visit to the Marmotttan. I came for two reasons:
• The Claude Monet permanent exhibition, continuing a theme, and worth visiting for that alone
• The Pissarro exhibition
Well, I buggered the latter up: It was opening next day!
I was very happy with the permeant collection, and completely enjoyed my visit. Not to be missed if a fan of Monet.
It had been a fairly long day. I took the bus back to somewhere around St. Michel, and walked another 20 minutes back to the hotel.
Tomorrow: The Louvre and Cité de l'architecture et du patrimoine
Mar 19th, 2017, 12:15 AM
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I love how you describes those paintings!
The "Camille on Her Death Bed" is a sorrowful oeuvre.
Thanks for reminding me of the Pissarro exhibition in Marmotttan, I remember liking some of his paintings that I saw elsewhere. Funny I always thought he was a woman (from the name).
The "Camille on Her Death Bed" is a sorrowful oeuvre.
Thanks for reminding me of the Pissarro exhibition in Marmotttan, I remember liking some of his paintings that I saw elsewhere. Funny I always thought he was a woman (from the name).
Mar 19th, 2017, 12:16 PM
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Thursday 23rd February: An Effing awful Day: The Louvre and Cité de l'architecture et du patrimoine
An Effing awful Day
Oh Dear. I have set expectations on this one, have I not? Please be assured that nothing really awful happened to me. No, I was NOT mugged. No, my passport and credit cards were not stolen. No, I did not get food-poisoning.
Nothing awful happened to me that day at all, and I am very embarrassed at having said I had an “An Effing awful Day”. Apologies!
It was simply me being a very spoiled brat, with very high expectations of that day, and then being subsequently let down and disappointed, because every day so far had well exceeded my expectations.
Here are my Pictures for the day:
pix.sfly.com/toSToQr1
The Louvre
http://www.louvre.fr/en
I had not been there for a couple of years, and was looking forward to it, particularly because of two special exhibitions mentioned by a Fodorite: The Vermeer exhibition and the Valentin de Boulogne Beyond Caravaggio.
I set out early, to get there by 0900. There was a line-up outside to get in, and once again it as bitterly cold and windy. However, I was in by 0920, so not so bad.
I then lined up for tickets to the Louvre galleries and book my ‘time-slot’ for the exhibitions, and was given a 1030 slot.
Great! Just enough time to store my coat and get to the Northern Europe Gallery, and have a very quick wander around to get myself in the mood for Vermeer. That worked out well, although clearly not enough time to appreciate the galleries, so I planned to revisit the galleries after I had viewed the Vermeer exhibit.
At 1030, I turned up, ticket in hand, at the entrance to the Vermeer exhibition, and there were hundreds before me! I am often given to exaggeration, but trust me on this … there were hundreds in the line-up before me.
I really should have left immediately, but I didn’t, and the more you get invested in your position in the line, the more it becomes difficult to leave. You know how it is!
At 1145, I finally entered the gallery, and I was even more PI$$ed off than when I was in the line-up to get in. Hundreds had entered, but not one of the Effers appeared to had left! We were shoulder to shoulder, with barely enough room to breathe. The viewers were crawling around the exhibits, 6-8 people deep, at a snail’s pace.
FU£K IT: I could not endure this torture any longer: I wanted to SCREAM!
I pushed my way through the throng, as politely as possible, and made for the exit. From what I glimpsed of the works, from afar: Yes, this is a simply magnificent collection of Vermeer’s works.
Emerging from this hellish nightmare, on the other side was the Valentin de Boulogne exhibition, which was almost empty. It was interesting and had a calming effect on me, but I am not sure I really appreciated as I should.
I had planned to spend a large portion of the day in the Louvre, but when I emerged from the Exhibition gallery into the main area, it was a nightmare – a cacophony of noise and people. There were even more hundreds lining up for admission to the Vermeer exhibition, the line almost filling the area. It was awful!
I knew where I could find peace and quiet: In Mesopotamia.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Me...ih=617&dpr=1.5
This is one of my favourite places in the Louvre. It has stunning masterpieces from one of the earliest civilizations, but it is always quiet and sparsely visited. Not sure why, as it is veritable treasure trove of the most magnificent and important artefacts in the museum.
My frazzled nerves calmed by Mesopotamia, I decided to cut my losses and leave the Louvre, sad that I would not be visiting the picture galleries.
I took the bus up to Palais de Chaillot, and had a mediocre lunch, before visiting
Cité de l'Architecture et du patrimoine
Quote: “Opened in 2007, this architecture and heritage museum impresses principally by its scale. The expansive ground floor is filled with life-size mock-ups of cathedral façades and heritage buildings, and interactive screens place the models in context. Upstairs, darkened rooms house full-scale copies of medieval and Renaissance murals and stained-glass windows.”
http://www.citechaillot.fr/en/
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Ci...ih=617&dpr=1.5
This museum is for those of us that are fascinated with architecture.
Bus home, and looked forward to my visit to Chartres next day, and arrival of dear niece C for the weekend.
Regards .. Ger
An Effing awful Day
Oh Dear. I have set expectations on this one, have I not? Please be assured that nothing really awful happened to me. No, I was NOT mugged. No, my passport and credit cards were not stolen. No, I did not get food-poisoning.
Nothing awful happened to me that day at all, and I am very embarrassed at having said I had an “An Effing awful Day”. Apologies!
It was simply me being a very spoiled brat, with very high expectations of that day, and then being subsequently let down and disappointed, because every day so far had well exceeded my expectations.
Here are my Pictures for the day:
pix.sfly.com/toSToQr1
The Louvre
http://www.louvre.fr/en
I had not been there for a couple of years, and was looking forward to it, particularly because of two special exhibitions mentioned by a Fodorite: The Vermeer exhibition and the Valentin de Boulogne Beyond Caravaggio.
I set out early, to get there by 0900. There was a line-up outside to get in, and once again it as bitterly cold and windy. However, I was in by 0920, so not so bad.
I then lined up for tickets to the Louvre galleries and book my ‘time-slot’ for the exhibitions, and was given a 1030 slot.
Great! Just enough time to store my coat and get to the Northern Europe Gallery, and have a very quick wander around to get myself in the mood for Vermeer. That worked out well, although clearly not enough time to appreciate the galleries, so I planned to revisit the galleries after I had viewed the Vermeer exhibit.
At 1030, I turned up, ticket in hand, at the entrance to the Vermeer exhibition, and there were hundreds before me! I am often given to exaggeration, but trust me on this … there were hundreds in the line-up before me.
I really should have left immediately, but I didn’t, and the more you get invested in your position in the line, the more it becomes difficult to leave. You know how it is!
At 1145, I finally entered the gallery, and I was even more PI$$ed off than when I was in the line-up to get in. Hundreds had entered, but not one of the Effers appeared to had left! We were shoulder to shoulder, with barely enough room to breathe. The viewers were crawling around the exhibits, 6-8 people deep, at a snail’s pace.
FU£K IT: I could not endure this torture any longer: I wanted to SCREAM!
I pushed my way through the throng, as politely as possible, and made for the exit. From what I glimpsed of the works, from afar: Yes, this is a simply magnificent collection of Vermeer’s works.
Emerging from this hellish nightmare, on the other side was the Valentin de Boulogne exhibition, which was almost empty. It was interesting and had a calming effect on me, but I am not sure I really appreciated as I should.
I had planned to spend a large portion of the day in the Louvre, but when I emerged from the Exhibition gallery into the main area, it was a nightmare – a cacophony of noise and people. There were even more hundreds lining up for admission to the Vermeer exhibition, the line almost filling the area. It was awful!
I knew where I could find peace and quiet: In Mesopotamia.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Me...ih=617&dpr=1.5
This is one of my favourite places in the Louvre. It has stunning masterpieces from one of the earliest civilizations, but it is always quiet and sparsely visited. Not sure why, as it is veritable treasure trove of the most magnificent and important artefacts in the museum.
My frazzled nerves calmed by Mesopotamia, I decided to cut my losses and leave the Louvre, sad that I would not be visiting the picture galleries.
I took the bus up to Palais de Chaillot, and had a mediocre lunch, before visiting
Cité de l'Architecture et du patrimoine
Quote: “Opened in 2007, this architecture and heritage museum impresses principally by its scale. The expansive ground floor is filled with life-size mock-ups of cathedral façades and heritage buildings, and interactive screens place the models in context. Upstairs, darkened rooms house full-scale copies of medieval and Renaissance murals and stained-glass windows.”
http://www.citechaillot.fr/en/
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Ci...ih=617&dpr=1.5
This museum is for those of us that are fascinated with architecture.
Bus home, and looked forward to my visit to Chartres next day, and arrival of dear niece C for the weekend.
Regards .. Ger
Mar 20th, 2017, 04:40 AM
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Wow, I'm in Paris next month and was planning to go to the Louvre as well, they're having a Rembrandt exhibition as well at that time. But I will probably have to change my plans, I'm not waiting in line just to get into the place.
Luckily this great city offers so many art events, the ones at the Petit Palais (French 18th art) and the Cognacq-Jay (Venetian 18th century) will not be teaming with fellow visitors.
Fantastic Report, Ger, I've loved reading it so far.
Luckily this great city offers so many art events, the ones at the Petit Palais (French 18th art) and the Cognacq-Jay (Venetian 18th century) will not be teaming with fellow visitors.
Fantastic Report, Ger, I've loved reading it so far.
Mar 20th, 2017, 06:11 AM
#75
Since the Vermeer problem was obvious everyone, especially the people in charge, they are supposed to have taken measures to fix it, but since I have been out of the country I'm not sure what they did and if it worked.
Mar 20th, 2017, 07:31 AM
#76
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Kerouac: I was there on February 23rd. BTW, the attendees were over-overwhelmingly French not foreign tourists. Last week I booked on-line for an exhibition at the V&A here, and there web-site allowed me to see if they had sold a small/medium/large number of tickets in each time-slot, which was very useful.
Guys, I hope they get their act together before your visit. It is an excellent exhibition. I'd go on the day and see how it goes. The day I was there, the gallery opened at 0900, and my booking was for 1030, so there was no justification for the size of the line-up. By the time I left, the line-up was so large that it would probably take 2-plus hours to get in if you were at the back of the line - it was snaking through the entire court.
Best of luck!
Guys, I hope they get their act together before your visit. It is an excellent exhibition. I'd go on the day and see how it goes. The day I was there, the gallery opened at 0900, and my booking was for 1030, so there was no justification for the size of the line-up. By the time I left, the line-up was so large that it would probably take 2-plus hours to get in if you were at the back of the line - it was snaking through the entire court.
Best of luck!
Mar 21st, 2017, 07:21 PM
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Ger, I absolutely LOVE your trip reports! I remember your wonderful Dordogne report before I took my trip there. I haven't finished this one yet (it's late), but will do so tomorrow. I'll be in Paris in May, so will probably try some of your restaurants.
I'll be solo and love your late luncheon approach. I'll be staying in the 7th for my first few days in Paris, as I've always been in the 6th or Montparnasse and wanted to try a different area - then I'm going to Belgium for 5 days, then back to Paris to St. Germain for another week. After reading your report, I wish I were just staying in Paris the whole time!
I'll be solo and love your late luncheon approach. I'll be staying in the 7th for my first few days in Paris, as I've always been in the 6th or Montparnasse and wanted to try a different area - then I'm going to Belgium for 5 days, then back to Paris to St. Germain for another week. After reading your report, I wish I were just staying in Paris the whole time!
Mar 22nd, 2017, 12:36 AM
#80
I was afraid your Louvre experience was going to be something like this when you first mentioned how awful it was. I also would have found that extremely unpleasant. So the bad news is I had to give away my ticket because I was not feeling well. The good news is it might have been just as well that I didn't go.
Too bad, because I have just completed a course of videos about Dutch painting in preparation for the visit. But I suppose I benefited from that in any event.
Too bad, because I have just completed a course of videos about Dutch painting in preparation for the visit. But I suppose I benefited from that in any event.
