Ger's Trip Report: A Long Weekend in the Dordogne
May 8th, 2004, 03:06 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ger's Trip Report: A Long Weekend in the Dordogne
I am blessed that I travel to Europe, on business, every 4-6 weeks and I use the opportunity to take a long weekend somewhere in Europe between business meetings. In March I explored Extramadura, Spain (trip report posted). In April, I debated on whether or not I should do yet another trip so soon. I felt a little guilty even considering it: Retirement savings plans always demand more of my disposable income than I am willing to donate. While I recognize the possibility and implications of an impoverished old age, there is also a naughty, irresponsible sprite within me, that reminds me of an old and wise Irish saying: "You are a long time dead". In the end, the hedonist in me won out. I exorcised my guilt demons and started to plan, knowing that I would not feel guilt again until the arrival of the VISA bill, which was at least a month away.
The Fodor's and Francophile sites are incredibly helpful for me, not just with the planning details but with also providing the initial inspiration that leads me to choose my destination. St. Cirq's wonderful postings from the Perigord started me on my search and, having read other trip reports, I quickly decided on the Dordogne. Much time was saved by researching both sites, using both the advice provided to previous travelers and the responses to my own postings. Many thanks to all who responded ? I am in your debt.
My original plan had me flying from LGW to Bordeaux on BA and picking up a car there. My plans changed because I had to be in Paris for a meeting on the following Monday morning. I went though various options connection through Paris to the Dordogne via trains and none were appealing, particularly when I read about the problems with stowing luggage due to increased security measures. All in all, after estimating the number of connections, the time and the expense, the best option for me was to drive to and from Paris. While a little on the insane side for one driver for such a short trip, it is something to consider for a longer trip with two drivers.
I left Toronto on the 2330 flight on Monday, in business class, and was therefore guaranteed a few hours sleep. Landing in LHR in the late morning, I had ample time to shower and change in the Air Canada Business Class arrival's lounge before taking the early afternoon BMI flight to CDG. Had I traveled economy, I probably would not have considered the first day's itinerary.
I arrived in Paris at 1530, picked up the car from National/Citee/Alamo and was on the road by 1630. According to ViaMichelin.Com, the drive from CDG to Travers should have taken 1.5 hours. Having used the site many times before, I had added an hour to the drive time and would have considered myself lucky if I made it within that time.
The traffic on the Periphiques and the motorway out of Paris was, as always, appalling; I had expected as much. However, it was surprisingly easy to negotiate between lanes, following the sign posts to my destination. This was of course due to the fact that I barely got above 60Km/hour! Once I cleared the suburbs, I was on an open road south with few cars and less trucks. It was early evening and there was enough fading sunlight to make the drive pleasant and relaxing. The fields alternated between bright green and yellow (rape-seed for Canola, perhaps?). It is not the most exciting drive I have ever done, but it offers no challenge, which was just what I needed after a transatlantic flight.
I had brought two audio books with me: "A History of the Middle Ages" and "Tears of the Giraffe" (the second book in the "Number One Detective Agency" series). Given the few brain cells still active after such a long journey, I chose the less intellectually challenging "Tears" to accompany me on my journey to Travers.
Travers is a tiny village, about 5 minutes from the medieval town of Beaugency and approximately 30 minutes drive from the main highway. I parked the car right outside the hotel and unloaded the bags.
La Tonnellerie is a three-star hotel that I would rate as 2.5 for accommodation and 3.5 for the food. For 127 Euros (half board), I was given a large double room with bath, simply furnished, overlooking the lovely interior garden. Dial-up Internet access is possible from the room, via the phoneline, and the TV has both CNN and BBC World Service (YES!!!!).
http://www.tonelri.com/anglais/pres.htm
I found the hotel on the Chateaux and Hotels of France website. I have stayed in several of these hotels over the years and have found the hotels to be "comfortable country" and the food to be superior. Here is the main website:
http://www.chateauxhotels.com/public/accueil/
The meal that evening was excellent. The dining room is cozy and overlooks the interior garden. I had this mad hope that I could dine outside, which was quickly dispelled as the skies opened and a mother of a thunderstorm terrorized the area for a couple of hours.
Included in the half-board was a four-course dinner. I was starving, as I had eaten nothing since the flight from London. Mostly, I was desperate for a drink! I ordered a "coup de Champagne" and sipped it as I perused the menu. I ordered the lobster mouse to start, a beef dish as the main course, baked goat cheese and a pear and gingerbread dessert, washed down with a half-bottle of a respectable local red. I could barely move from the table by the end of the meal and I really struggled with the dessert and only ate enough so as not to offend the chef.
I waddled up to my room and resisted collapsing on the welcoming bed just long enough to perform my ablutions, set my alarm for 6am and open the window to enjoy the wonderful smell of fresh earth after a Spring rain. Normally, at the end of an evening, I am delighted to access the Internet while listening with one ear to BBC. Not tonight! When I climbed into the bed, I was comatose within minutes.
Next: The drive to Domme
May 8th, 2004, 03:13 PM
#2
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OReilly, I got a good laugh out of your report.
While I hope to visit the Dordogne someday, I would not recommend it as a weekend out from Paris in the middle of a business trip. The drive is a killer--or at least I would see it that way. Next time try Normandy. There are lots of cute little towns there and you would have more time to visit and less driving.
Having said that, I await the rest of your report.
While I hope to visit the Dordogne someday, I would not recommend it as a weekend out from Paris in the middle of a business trip. The drive is a killer--or at least I would see it that way. Next time try Normandy. There are lots of cute little towns there and you would have more time to visit and less driving.
Having said that, I await the rest of your report.
May 8th, 2004, 04:30 PM
#5
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I doubt anyone reviews their retirement as the "golden years". I think they view it as their "doctor and dentist years" or their "decrepit years". Until there are snap in interchangeable body parts, the medical and dental profession seems to be getting a good piece of my "gold" as I approach retirement.
Just back (kidding) from the dentist. . . .
And I do hate that phrase "golden years". Ha!
Just back (kidding) from the dentist. . . .
And I do hate that phrase "golden years". Ha!
May 8th, 2004, 05:56 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you all for your responses:
Lauren: Yes, I know that it was not the ideal destination from Paris, but I had set my heart on the Dordogne. I am reserving Normandy and Brittany for the summer months, when the weather will prevent me from visiting the south
Scarlet: I thank you for your encouragement. My husband, however, might not agree with you; he thinks I should pay more attention to my inner sensible demons. My VISA bill has arrived, but I will not open the Ba*TaRd until I finish the trip report.
Wren: You understand me perfectly!
Regards ? Ger
Lauren: Yes, I know that it was not the ideal destination from Paris, but I had set my heart on the Dordogne. I am reserving Normandy and Brittany for the summer months, when the weather will prevent me from visiting the south
Scarlet: I thank you for your encouragement. My husband, however, might not agree with you; he thinks I should pay more attention to my inner sensible demons. My VISA bill has arrived, but I will not open the Ba*TaRd until I finish the trip report.
Wren: You understand me perfectly!
Regards ? Ger
May 8th, 2004, 06:48 PM
#8
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, OReilly. You travel, dine, and especially write so well. I love your style!
By the way, if it is not too personal a question, what do you do for a living that takes you to Europe so frequently? Thanks.
By the way, if it is not too personal a question, what do you do for a living that takes you to Europe so frequently? Thanks.
May 8th, 2004, 08:21 PM
#10
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I loved the Irish saying; it helps me justify my own trip planning. I too, may be trying to squeeze the Dordogne in on an already over-crowded itinerary and VISA card. P. S. They do have a few interchangeable body parts now.
May 9th, 2004, 07:48 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks St. Cirq, I am working on the next installment.
Irego: I am a consultant and work for a UK-based company.
Mimi:
I have just uploaded the photos and will be including them in the report.
Hopingtotravel: I think you could not fail to love the Dordogne. I always have a similar problem: there is so much to see and so little time
Klondike: More this afternoon.
regards ... Ger
Irego: I am a consultant and work for a UK-based company.
Mimi:
I have just uploaded the photos and will be including them in the report.Hopingtotravel: I think you could not fail to love the Dordogne. I always have a similar problem: there is so much to see and so little time
Klondike: More this afternoon.
regards ... Ger
May 9th, 2004, 12:34 PM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drive to Domme
At 6am, the electronic scream of my cell phone alarm dragged me out of my deep slumber. I HATE the sound of that alarm as it usually summons me to a business meeting or an early flight. I had two options; "snooze" or "off". "Snooze" meant that I would have time to explore Beaugency, "off" meant recognizing the supremacy of my body clock over my will. I can?t actually remember hitting OFF, but I obviously did.
At 7:30, the pleasant, harmonic sound of church bells peeled throughout the village and its gentle fingers stroked my ears, like a feather on an angel's wing.
I woke up smiling and refreshed. What a wonderful sound, reminiscent of childhood; a Sunday morning in Dublin, when my poor dear mother would try to wake her heathen brood to get them up in time to hear the last mass. I stretched out in bed, enjoying a sound that brought with it such fond memories and awoke within me great joy and enthusiasm for the new day. A familiar sound, in an unfamiliar place, connected tender memories with the promise of new discoveries.
After loading the car, I returned to the hotel for breakfast and enjoyed a large café cream and fresh bread and butter. I took a couple of hard boiled eggs for the journey and paid the bill (half-board (one person in a double room, dinner and breakfast, half bottle of decent wine, a glass of champagne) 160 Euros. I have paid more than this for a depressing single room in Rome, London or Paris, so I was well pleased.
The day was heavily overcast and, on route to the motorway, there were times when the fog was so low and dense that I could hardly see the front of the car. An inauspicious start to the day and obviously not a day for sightseeing L No matter, I had my books and what more could you ask for than to be able to set aside four hours to indulge in a good book.
"A History of the Middle Ages" (Crane Brinton), narrated over 18 hours, chronicles 1,000 years of European history, from the fall of Rome to the birth of the Renaissance. It?s a perfect book to listen to as you drive around the Dordogne. It does not provide much depth on any one era or area, but does a fine job of tracing certain themes through time, such as:
- The settlement of the barbarians and the establishment of feudalism in the early middle ages;
- The connections between the old order (the Roman Empire) and the emerging powers (the Roman Church, Byzantium, the barbarians and the Islamic world);
- The establishment of the nation states and national "characteristics" by the 12th century.
I would recommend it as a refresher course or as an introductory course for those that plan to visit anywhere in Europe.
The narrator is quite good, although every now and then he appears to be visited by the voices of Winston Churchill and Hyacinth Bucket (Keeping up Appearances) and he pronounces some common words in a very strange fashion (e.g.: he pronounces "OFFICES" like "ORIFICES", which can lead you to misinterpret some sentences in a most disconcerting way!)
Just as well that I had something to read, as the weather became horrendous. I had been doing a steady 130Km/hour down the A20 until an unmerciful thunderstorm struck. Through the downpour, I could appreciate that the terrain becomes more varied and interesting the further south you travel. The skies cleared a little as I passed Limoges, but throughout the remainder of the journey, I was subjected to intermittent showers.
I exited the highway at Souillac and within a very short time realized that I was going to love this area. Despite the day being heavily overcast, low-lying thunderclouds of the deepest gray, it was clear that Spring had taken hold and had released the land from the grasp of winter. There was an excitement and vigor all around. A colourful a patchwork of fields, from the newly tilled brown earth awaiting planting to a whole spectrum of greens, flanked the road. The fields were surrounded by neat hedgerows and a variety of deciduous trees, in various stages of growth. Here and there the road winds close enough to the river to see its shaded banks and swollen waters.
Here is a link to my photos of the Dordogne countryside:
http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.js...0zuzv&Ux=0
Domme sits on top of a rocky outcrop overlooking the Dordogne. The road twists steeply to the summit and there were a couple of heart-stopping moments when I came face-to-face with oncoming cars driving in the middle of the road. Turning left through one of the town gates, I weaved through the tiny, steep streets until I reached the top of the town and parked the car outside the hotel.
The hotel L'Esplanade
http://www.chateauxhotelsfrance.com/...tlnocount=true
http://karenbrown.com/franceinns/det...sso?RecID=9674
This hotel is also part of the Chateaux and Hotels of France association and a Karen Brown recommendation. It is indeed a splendid find and I was delighted that I had decided to stay there. My room (104 euros), a large double with bath, had the most spectacular view of the valley. Some rooms face onto the village, but I suggest that you pay the extra money for the valley view. I can't tell you how wonderful it was to wake to the view each morning.
I unpacked and set out to explore the town.
Next installment: Exploring Domme
Regards Ger
At 6am, the electronic scream of my cell phone alarm dragged me out of my deep slumber. I HATE the sound of that alarm as it usually summons me to a business meeting or an early flight. I had two options; "snooze" or "off". "Snooze" meant that I would have time to explore Beaugency, "off" meant recognizing the supremacy of my body clock over my will. I can?t actually remember hitting OFF, but I obviously did.
At 7:30, the pleasant, harmonic sound of church bells peeled throughout the village and its gentle fingers stroked my ears, like a feather on an angel's wing.
I woke up smiling and refreshed. What a wonderful sound, reminiscent of childhood; a Sunday morning in Dublin, when my poor dear mother would try to wake her heathen brood to get them up in time to hear the last mass. I stretched out in bed, enjoying a sound that brought with it such fond memories and awoke within me great joy and enthusiasm for the new day. A familiar sound, in an unfamiliar place, connected tender memories with the promise of new discoveries.
After loading the car, I returned to the hotel for breakfast and enjoyed a large café cream and fresh bread and butter. I took a couple of hard boiled eggs for the journey and paid the bill (half-board (one person in a double room, dinner and breakfast, half bottle of decent wine, a glass of champagne) 160 Euros. I have paid more than this for a depressing single room in Rome, London or Paris, so I was well pleased.
The day was heavily overcast and, on route to the motorway, there were times when the fog was so low and dense that I could hardly see the front of the car. An inauspicious start to the day and obviously not a day for sightseeing L No matter, I had my books and what more could you ask for than to be able to set aside four hours to indulge in a good book.
"A History of the Middle Ages" (Crane Brinton), narrated over 18 hours, chronicles 1,000 years of European history, from the fall of Rome to the birth of the Renaissance. It?s a perfect book to listen to as you drive around the Dordogne. It does not provide much depth on any one era or area, but does a fine job of tracing certain themes through time, such as:
- The settlement of the barbarians and the establishment of feudalism in the early middle ages;
- The connections between the old order (the Roman Empire) and the emerging powers (the Roman Church, Byzantium, the barbarians and the Islamic world);
- The establishment of the nation states and national "characteristics" by the 12th century.
I would recommend it as a refresher course or as an introductory course for those that plan to visit anywhere in Europe.
The narrator is quite good, although every now and then he appears to be visited by the voices of Winston Churchill and Hyacinth Bucket (Keeping up Appearances) and he pronounces some common words in a very strange fashion (e.g.: he pronounces "OFFICES" like "ORIFICES", which can lead you to misinterpret some sentences in a most disconcerting way!)
Just as well that I had something to read, as the weather became horrendous. I had been doing a steady 130Km/hour down the A20 until an unmerciful thunderstorm struck. Through the downpour, I could appreciate that the terrain becomes more varied and interesting the further south you travel. The skies cleared a little as I passed Limoges, but throughout the remainder of the journey, I was subjected to intermittent showers.
I exited the highway at Souillac and within a very short time realized that I was going to love this area. Despite the day being heavily overcast, low-lying thunderclouds of the deepest gray, it was clear that Spring had taken hold and had released the land from the grasp of winter. There was an excitement and vigor all around. A colourful a patchwork of fields, from the newly tilled brown earth awaiting planting to a whole spectrum of greens, flanked the road. The fields were surrounded by neat hedgerows and a variety of deciduous trees, in various stages of growth. Here and there the road winds close enough to the river to see its shaded banks and swollen waters.
Here is a link to my photos of the Dordogne countryside:
http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.js...0zuzv&Ux=0
Domme sits on top of a rocky outcrop overlooking the Dordogne. The road twists steeply to the summit and there were a couple of heart-stopping moments when I came face-to-face with oncoming cars driving in the middle of the road. Turning left through one of the town gates, I weaved through the tiny, steep streets until I reached the top of the town and parked the car outside the hotel.
The hotel L'Esplanade
http://www.chateauxhotelsfrance.com/...tlnocount=true
http://karenbrown.com/franceinns/det...sso?RecID=9674
This hotel is also part of the Chateaux and Hotels of France association and a Karen Brown recommendation. It is indeed a splendid find and I was delighted that I had decided to stay there. My room (104 euros), a large double with bath, had the most spectacular view of the valley. Some rooms face onto the village, but I suggest that you pay the extra money for the valley view. I can't tell you how wonderful it was to wake to the view each morning.
I unpacked and set out to explore the town.
Next installment: Exploring Domme
Regards Ger
May 9th, 2004, 12:55 PM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry, that link to the photos does not appear to work. If you want to see the photos, send me a note to [email protected] and I will send you an invitation.
regards Ger
regards Ger
May 9th, 2004, 01:10 PM
#15
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, I am never without a book ANYWHERE--not just on trips. It can make standing in line an educational experience instead of an annoying one.
Currently reacing Norman Cantor's "Civilization of the Middle Ages" even though I am not in the Dordogne (or going there anytime soon). Good overview of Europe in that time period. I have developed an interest in the Cathars and have read several books on that recently including a novel called "The Good Men". Makes me hanker for a trip to the Dordogne/Catalonia to see all the sites but not this year.
On interchangeable body parts: I still have my own hips and knees but I have two of those high priced dental implants and have started the process for the third. I still haven't had to remortgage my house to finance my teeth. Ha!
Currently reacing Norman Cantor's "Civilization of the Middle Ages" even though I am not in the Dordogne (or going there anytime soon). Good overview of Europe in that time period. I have developed an interest in the Cathars and have read several books on that recently including a novel called "The Good Men". Makes me hanker for a trip to the Dordogne/Catalonia to see all the sites but not this year.
On interchangeable body parts: I still have my own hips and knees but I have two of those high priced dental implants and have started the process for the third. I still haven't had to remortgage my house to finance my teeth. Ha!
May 9th, 2004, 05:20 PM
#17
Your trip report as, usual so personable and brought back memories of our road trips in the Dordogne/Lot area. Your pictures: What can I say. You know how I love texture and your photos bring that out in the buildings you picture. J. loves the pictures with the views through the grills. If you ever need a secretary...
May 10th, 2004, 08:18 AM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys. I may have overdone it this time with the number of photos showing interesting archtitectural detail
Suzie: It was a few years before I had the nerve to drive in Europe, but I found not having a car limited my travel possibilities and I hate public transport. As they say: Where there is a will .... You would be surprised at how easy it is. In may ways, I find it far less stressful than driving in Toronto.
regards ...Ger
Suzie: It was a few years before I had the nerve to drive in Europe, but I found not having a car limited my travel possibilities and I hate public transport. As they say: Where there is a will .... You would be surprised at how easy it is. In may ways, I find it far less stressful than driving in Toronto.
regards ...Ger
