The next time anyone posts a thread foolishly asking for inexpensive restaurant recommendations in Venice, be sure to direct them to R.W. Apple Jr.'s disturbing article, "Going Fast: The Fresh Fish of Venice" in today's NYTimes. (Ira should read this, too, before he sends any more unsuspecting tourists to the disgraceful Cantinone Storico.)

www.nytimes.com
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I also read the NYTimes article on Fresh Fish of Venice, and agree with NYCFoodSnob.
It was an informative article.

Not only informative (although not surprising, either), but really mouth-watering.
The big question: NYCFoodSnob, have you been to Trattoria Laguna at Cavallino? That place is now calling to me big time!!!

Try Trattoria alla Madonna, calle della Madonna 594. Good for late evening. A full fish menu. Nice athmosphere. Very busy!!!
It is located on the far side of the Rialto bridge (away from the San Marco side). Turn immediately to the left along the canal, and then on the first or second right down a dark alley.
We were there about a week ago and rather enjoyed the food and the service.
In comparison to other restaurants in Venice the food was fine and not outrageously expensive.

Thanks, NYC, for the heads up.

The NYT used to have a higher standard of writing.

"....the disgraceful Cantinone Storico."

Would you mind elucidating?

We enjoyed our dinner there, and thought it was very good for the price. The tuna was not cherry red (BTW that's done with carbon monoxide not sulfur). The seafood in the antipasto was all fresh, as was the Bream.

"The NYT used to have a higher standard of writing."

R.W. Apple Jr. is a veteran NYTimes writer (since 1963) and is considered by many in journalism to be quite skilled and accomplished. I happen to love when he steps away from world events and writes about lifestyle issues.

Apart from the fact that milk used to cost 35 cents a quart and came in glass bottles and there used to be a time when three networks dominated television, I don't see the point of the above quote from Ira.

I personally don't care what newspaper people read as long as they read at least one. I have no particular allegiance to any single publication but the NYTimes happens to be one of the four I try to read daily.

If Ira was referring to Jayson Blair, all I can say is it takes more than one bad apple to bring down an institution, unless your name is Martha Stewart.

Patrick, I have not been to Trattoria Laguna but it's been on my list for quite some time. The thought of getting into a car while in Venice has limited appeal to me, which is the main reason for my aversion to the Lido.

However, Luca, owner of my favorite "Riviera," told me to check out Lucio Zanon at Graspo de Ua nearly two years ago. Every Venice food lover and restaurant owner has their own list. Comparing lists is half the fun.

Have been to Gaspo da Ua (SP?) and it was awful. The fish was overcooked to the point of absolute dryness (we sent it back and the replacement was almost identiical) and sauces had no discernible taste except salt - this was aoubt a year and a half ago - perhaps there is a new chef now.

Lucio Zanon is Graspo's new chef and when he took over this old, tarnished, veteran Venice establishment (about 2 years ago) much buzz was created. The buzz is still humming.

>"The NYT used to have a higher standard of writing."

R.W. Apple Jr. is a veteran NYTimes writer (since 1963) and is considered by many in journalism to be quite skilled and accomplished. ..

Had I known that, I would have written "I would have expected a higher standard of writing from Mr Apple".

Would you mind explaining why you called the Cantinone Storico "disgraceful"?

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/03/dining/03VENI.html

Here's the actual URL for the article. (It took me a few tries to find, since it's in the Dining, rather than the Travel section.)

Although I'm all for promoting cooking with local and fresh ingredients, while reading this article I could not rid my head of the image of sewage being dumped into the 'local' waters. Apple writes of the diminishment in numbers and kind of local fish due, in part, to pollution but I don't recall a mention of the safety of eating this local fish even if it is $59.95 a pound (or kilo?). Descriptions of eating the fish raw were particularly unappealing. However, I would be more than pleased to be dissuaded of this, perhaps inaccurate, perception especially before I go to Venice.