France trip report--Part 1
Jun 6th, 2003 | 04:39 AM
#21
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,942
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Really enjoying your trip report as we returned from Paris and Normandy early this week. I am looking forward to hearing about your time in Normandy. I thought it was so beautiful and the WWII tour was so touching. Please continue!
Jun 6th, 2003 | 05:49 PM
#22
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 157
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On a Sunday morning, our group left Tours for Normandy. The bus stopped mid-morning for a quick stop in Angers. It was a bit too early for a "ceremonial" sip of Cointreau, so we had hot chocolate instead. It PALED to the elixir we had in Paris at Angelina's!
2? hours later, we arrived at Mont-St.-Michel, sort of like Brigadoon rising above the flat farmland. The skies were clear, May-blue with a few puffy white clouds. The tide was out and the sand flats stretched for miles.
Being Sunday, we joined an international throng in the narrow streets as we headed toward the abbey. My husband and I climbed the 400+ steps(which really wasn't bad at all; I thought they were just a preface for the real climb!)and toured all over the interior and parapets. The views were spectacular, especially seeing the gradual rising of the tide. The various rooms were surprising by their light and airiness. Medieval often means dark and gloomy to me, but even the manuscript copying room was bathed in sunlight from the many tall windows.
Shortly after 5PM, we arrived in charming Bayeux to visit the museum with the 900-yr.-old tapestry/embroidery piece detailing the history of the Battle of Hastings. The headphone tour was highly informative and moved us along in a reasonable way. The voice, I believe, was Jeremy Irons and was at the same time authoritative and soothing. Very few others were in the museum with us which made lingering permissible. It was French Mothers'Day and we supposed many family get-togethers were occurring in homes. Just as well for us!
By 6PM, we had arrived at our final destination for the day...the Mercure Omaha Beach, a hotel/golf course complex with views of the Atlantic/English Channel. It was
easy walking distance to the port town of Port en Bessin. We had two dinners at this hotel and found both to be pretty mediocre. Just mentioned it for those to whom that might be important. The location to the D-Day sites was, nevertheless, good.
Monday morning, we drove to the Omaha Beach area and observed monuments, etc. from that landing area.
Next, we bussed to the American cemetery. Over 9,000 white granite crosses marked the graves of U.S.servicemen/women who died due to the D-Day battles. The view of the sparkling blue water in the distance, the manicured lawns,and the bouquets left by loved ones brought many tears to our eyes. The highest irony of the trip was that today was Memorial Day at home and in this spot. Tiny American and French flags rippled at each marker. So much sacrifice! May all rest in peace!!!
We also visited the D-Day museum in Arromanches that possesses news footage which details the creation and transport from England of a full harbor to further the campaign against the Nazis, once the beachhead had been established. Being a Baby Boomer, this was always textbook history to me. Up close, the beaches, weapons, personal effects, etc. were compelling. The mental image of the cemetery was also fresh.
Some of our group visited Utah Beach in the afternoon. My husband and I felt somewhat drained by the morning's activities and decided to investigate the village and get some much-needed exercise. We strolled the streets, admired the lovely plantings of homeowners and municipal buildings, scampered up the hills for better vantage points of the harbor and the ocean, and visited the local church.
The latter had a maritime theme, complete with models of ships mounted on the walls and plaques commemorating townpeople who perished at sea over the years. Outside in the church courtyard was a monument dedicated to others from this village who died in WWI and II, including resistance fighters who were "deported to camps" and one Jewish man who died at Auschwitz. This provided us with the other side of the coin...the local residents who are drawn into a conflict and those who had to pay with their lives. Truly a moving and thoughtful day for both of us.
Tomorrow, I'll document the last day of the tour for you.
2? hours later, we arrived at Mont-St.-Michel, sort of like Brigadoon rising above the flat farmland. The skies were clear, May-blue with a few puffy white clouds. The tide was out and the sand flats stretched for miles.
Being Sunday, we joined an international throng in the narrow streets as we headed toward the abbey. My husband and I climbed the 400+ steps(which really wasn't bad at all; I thought they were just a preface for the real climb!)and toured all over the interior and parapets. The views were spectacular, especially seeing the gradual rising of the tide. The various rooms were surprising by their light and airiness. Medieval often means dark and gloomy to me, but even the manuscript copying room was bathed in sunlight from the many tall windows.
Shortly after 5PM, we arrived in charming Bayeux to visit the museum with the 900-yr.-old tapestry/embroidery piece detailing the history of the Battle of Hastings. The headphone tour was highly informative and moved us along in a reasonable way. The voice, I believe, was Jeremy Irons and was at the same time authoritative and soothing. Very few others were in the museum with us which made lingering permissible. It was French Mothers'Day and we supposed many family get-togethers were occurring in homes. Just as well for us!
By 6PM, we had arrived at our final destination for the day...the Mercure Omaha Beach, a hotel/golf course complex with views of the Atlantic/English Channel. It was
easy walking distance to the port town of Port en Bessin. We had two dinners at this hotel and found both to be pretty mediocre. Just mentioned it for those to whom that might be important. The location to the D-Day sites was, nevertheless, good.
Monday morning, we drove to the Omaha Beach area and observed monuments, etc. from that landing area.
Next, we bussed to the American cemetery. Over 9,000 white granite crosses marked the graves of U.S.servicemen/women who died due to the D-Day battles. The view of the sparkling blue water in the distance, the manicured lawns,and the bouquets left by loved ones brought many tears to our eyes. The highest irony of the trip was that today was Memorial Day at home and in this spot. Tiny American and French flags rippled at each marker. So much sacrifice! May all rest in peace!!!
We also visited the D-Day museum in Arromanches that possesses news footage which details the creation and transport from England of a full harbor to further the campaign against the Nazis, once the beachhead had been established. Being a Baby Boomer, this was always textbook history to me. Up close, the beaches, weapons, personal effects, etc. were compelling. The mental image of the cemetery was also fresh.
Some of our group visited Utah Beach in the afternoon. My husband and I felt somewhat drained by the morning's activities and decided to investigate the village and get some much-needed exercise. We strolled the streets, admired the lovely plantings of homeowners and municipal buildings, scampered up the hills for better vantage points of the harbor and the ocean, and visited the local church.
The latter had a maritime theme, complete with models of ships mounted on the walls and plaques commemorating townpeople who perished at sea over the years. Outside in the church courtyard was a monument dedicated to others from this village who died in WWI and II, including resistance fighters who were "deported to camps" and one Jewish man who died at Auschwitz. This provided us with the other side of the coin...the local residents who are drawn into a conflict and those who had to pay with their lives. Truly a moving and thoughtful day for both of us.
Tomorrow, I'll document the last day of the tour for you.
Jun 6th, 2003 | 06:04 PM
#23
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Schild1, waiting for th next. Yes, I do too like weddings, once we went to one in the church, as we snapped the bride from our cafe table, a member of the wedding invited us into the church. Another time, we were in St Remy admiring the church inside, when all of a sudden it became crowded, and we sat thinking a service was taking place, it turned out we were at a funeral, and did not dare leave our seats, thinking we would be considered bad examples of rude Americans. As we left the church after the ceremony, everyone stared at us and I actually heard some one say,
I think she was the one??Lover, murderer? benefactor? I'll never know.
I think she was the one??Lover, murderer? benefactor? I'll never know.
Jun 7th, 2003 | 12:55 PM
#27
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
As another gorgeous spring obviated itself, we left Normandy on our last day on the road. The first stop was Rouen, famed for half-timbered houses, a glorious cathedral in the process of having its exterior laser-cleaned, and the site of Joan of Arc's demise. Our tour leader gave us a leisurely walk through the high spots of the old city as masses of demonstrators clogged most streets demanding redress for their financial and organizational grievances.
Then, we were on our own for a couple hours. My husband and I sat all alone inside the contemporary version of the church alongside the execution by "flame" site of Joan. The stained glass windows, especially the multiplicity of blues, calmed us and urged us to stay inside, away from the bustle of the day. We were tempted to do just so, but our time was short.
Across the street from this church, we saw a sign for a restaurant on the 1eme etage, the Toque d'Or. The 14€ set menu looked good, so we headed up the steep stairs. Our climb was rewarded with three lovely, rustic rooms--beamed ceilings, huge old fireplace, and a perfect view of the church surrounded by numerous plantings of white and deep blue hydrangeas. Our only problem was time. We had to meet the rest of the group in ONE HOUR! I had the best tiny mussels I have ever had as my starter and superb white fish with vegetable garni for the plat. My unrepentant beef-eating husband had onion soup and beouf Bourguignonne. The courses came so slowly and were consumed so fast, that we did a read disservice to the meal. I was going to pass on the tarte tatine when it arrived before me--a square of divinely light pastry which cradled the reassembled slices of half an apple. I couldn't resist. But I ran out of the restaurant with two minutes to spare to the meeting time. My husband stayed back to pay the bill and give his compliments. It all worked out OK, but we still rue our not being able to dine leisurely. Note for our next trip!!!
This was our first visit to Rouen, but it surely will not be our last. We only scratched the surface of what it has to offer!
Getting ever nearer to Paris, we stopped at Monet's gardens in Giverny. A few years ago, we enjoyed a splendid exhibition of Monet's paintings here at Chicago's Art Institute. I purchased a book of lush photographs from the artist's gardens and have oohed and aahed over them ever since. Finally, I was experiencing the place first hand and the blooms lived up to all my expectations. The rosy pink water lilies floated languidly on the ponds in view of the Japanese footbridge. My favorite flower, the iris, was everywhere to be seen. One section of the garden contained only blossoms of every shade of purple--irises, roses, etc., etc. The atmosphere was heady with natural perfume and I'm sure other people wondered why I walked around with such a sappy grin on my face. This was my garden dream come true!
Monet's home on the grounds was somewhat inviting, but packed with visitors which decreased my interest quickly. The few photographs I had left on my last roll and shot here came back jampacked with the extravagant colors of the gardens. What a glorious way to end my vacation!
I spent the short ride back to Paris and the Mercure Suffren in a floral afterglow.
The group's last meal together was at Les Noces de Jeannette, a rowdy happy event held in a room decorated with lots of mirrors, tall windows, and gilt trim on the wall mouldings. A Polish musician entertained us with tunes from his Italian-made accordion, all buttons, no keys. I'm always curious what music non-Americans think will please us. I was looking for pleasant little country French melodies and instead got old Paris-themed American standards accompanied by regional "hits" like "San Antonio Rose." Our Texan contingent ate it up, while we concentrated on our wine and, later, coffee.
The next morning, we were transported to CDG for our flight home. We currently console ourselves with several little miniature bottles of Courvoisier products, lovely bars of scented soap, a bit of perfume, and trip album I put together with photos and other realia from the trip.
Bon voyage to all others headed to France! It can be magical!
Then, we were on our own for a couple hours. My husband and I sat all alone inside the contemporary version of the church alongside the execution by "flame" site of Joan. The stained glass windows, especially the multiplicity of blues, calmed us and urged us to stay inside, away from the bustle of the day. We were tempted to do just so, but our time was short.
Across the street from this church, we saw a sign for a restaurant on the 1eme etage, the Toque d'Or. The 14€ set menu looked good, so we headed up the steep stairs. Our climb was rewarded with three lovely, rustic rooms--beamed ceilings, huge old fireplace, and a perfect view of the church surrounded by numerous plantings of white and deep blue hydrangeas. Our only problem was time. We had to meet the rest of the group in ONE HOUR! I had the best tiny mussels I have ever had as my starter and superb white fish with vegetable garni for the plat. My unrepentant beef-eating husband had onion soup and beouf Bourguignonne. The courses came so slowly and were consumed so fast, that we did a read disservice to the meal. I was going to pass on the tarte tatine when it arrived before me--a square of divinely light pastry which cradled the reassembled slices of half an apple. I couldn't resist. But I ran out of the restaurant with two minutes to spare to the meeting time. My husband stayed back to pay the bill and give his compliments. It all worked out OK, but we still rue our not being able to dine leisurely. Note for our next trip!!!
This was our first visit to Rouen, but it surely will not be our last. We only scratched the surface of what it has to offer!
Getting ever nearer to Paris, we stopped at Monet's gardens in Giverny. A few years ago, we enjoyed a splendid exhibition of Monet's paintings here at Chicago's Art Institute. I purchased a book of lush photographs from the artist's gardens and have oohed and aahed over them ever since. Finally, I was experiencing the place first hand and the blooms lived up to all my expectations. The rosy pink water lilies floated languidly on the ponds in view of the Japanese footbridge. My favorite flower, the iris, was everywhere to be seen. One section of the garden contained only blossoms of every shade of purple--irises, roses, etc., etc. The atmosphere was heady with natural perfume and I'm sure other people wondered why I walked around with such a sappy grin on my face. This was my garden dream come true!
Monet's home on the grounds was somewhat inviting, but packed with visitors which decreased my interest quickly. The few photographs I had left on my last roll and shot here came back jampacked with the extravagant colors of the gardens. What a glorious way to end my vacation!
I spent the short ride back to Paris and the Mercure Suffren in a floral afterglow.
The group's last meal together was at Les Noces de Jeannette, a rowdy happy event held in a room decorated with lots of mirrors, tall windows, and gilt trim on the wall mouldings. A Polish musician entertained us with tunes from his Italian-made accordion, all buttons, no keys. I'm always curious what music non-Americans think will please us. I was looking for pleasant little country French melodies and instead got old Paris-themed American standards accompanied by regional "hits" like "San Antonio Rose." Our Texan contingent ate it up, while we concentrated on our wine and, later, coffee.
The next morning, we were transported to CDG for our flight home. We currently console ourselves with several little miniature bottles of Courvoisier products, lovely bars of scented soap, a bit of perfume, and trip album I put together with photos and other realia from the trip.
Bon voyage to all others headed to France! It can be magical!
Jun 8th, 2003 | 05:28 PM
#32
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Thanks for your kind and supportive comments! We had not taken this kind of tour for 25+ years and were trepidacious to say the least. But it really was far better than we expected. If we travel in areas where we are more linguistically comfortable, I do all the arrangements. This was a most pleasant respite from that.
Many thanks for all those who were so helpful in selecting restaurants and sites to include when we were on our own! Keep travelling with an open mind! Maybe we can spread some peace!!
Many thanks for all those who were so helpful in selecting restaurants and sites to include when we were on our own! Keep travelling with an open mind! Maybe we can spread some peace!!
