Got back Wednesday from a 16-day tour to France and am still trying to get back to "normal." There is no way I can match Beatchick's recent marvellous report, but I can attest to my experiences. We arrived in Paris on May 13th, in the midst of a rail strike. Our tour group was to have someone meet us at the CDG for transport to the Mercure Tour Eiffel Suffren. Through a mixup and packed roads(no trains, remember), we had to wait two hours for a ride. Not an auspicious start! But the hotel has a spectacular view of the the Eiffel Tower every time you walk out the front door and that helped considerably. I had prepared a list of restaurants for reservations done by the concierge. (Many thanks to Fodor's posters for all of them.) With so little lead time, we were only able to get places far down my list. I knew I would be happy with any of them, so that was really no problem. Then, we set out for a mind-clearing walk, all around the Champ de Mars and the Rue Cler area. We ran back to the hotel in pouring rain, but Paris still looked good. The skies cleared later and we dined at Brasserie Ribe, 5 mins. from our hotel, delicious and reasonable prix fixe menu and fascinating people-watching from our window table. The next morning, our group of 24 had a general tour of Paris and a specific stop at Notre Dame. The rail/metro strike was still on and the traffic swirling around us was horrific, especially at the Arc de Triomphe. There were many police out directing traffic, but the snarls were monumental. We had made res. for dinner at Maitre Paul's for that evening, but with no metro service available and virtually no free cabs anywhere, we cancelled. Luckily, we had found Le P'tit Troquet on our walk the day before. It was high on our wish list and an afternoon walk-in got us the eveing reservation. It's a tiny, charming place on Rue L'Exhibition. From the set menu I had asparagus soup, guinea fowl, and a chocolate/orange tarte. Superb! The guinea fowl was dark poultry meat with a taste between turkey and chicken. My first encounter with it and I was very pleased! My husband ordered rabbit paté, veal, and creme brulee which he pronounced very satisfying. With house wine and mineral water, the bill was 80 euros--reasonable for the quality. Earlier in the day, after exploring alone on foot, we stopped for the chocolat africain at Angelina's, Rue Rivoli. The Belle Epoque decoration of the place was amazing, including the spiral staircase covered with an Oriental rug runner up to the "toilettes." The chocolate came in a medium-large delicate white pitcher from which we served ourselves the senuously dark liquid. On a little tray was placed a bowl of artistically piped unsweetened whipped cream for mixing into the chocolate. The taste was deep, sweet and memorable!. As we walked from the Tuileries back to our hotel, we could still savor the wonderful flavor. All rain clouds had scattered and the sunny, blue skies provided the perfect backdrop for photos of Paris' grandiose buildings. The next entry for the trip will come soon, I hope.

Nice start. It works really well to post all your subsequent parts as "replies to yourself" here on this thread, rather than starting new threads as "part 2", etc.

Best wishes,

Rex

Carolyn,

What a fine "auspicious" start to trip report!! I really like the language of your post.

You have described the experience at Angelina like no other. I had forgotten about the lovely walk up to the ladies' room until you'd mentioned it.

I've always wanted to try Le P'tit Troquet and I really like the way you describe your meal.

I'm so glad you & hubby had a great trip!!

Very entertaining trip report, Schildc. I loved P'tit Troquet too, and I'm literally salivating over your description of the chocolate at Angelina's. It's #1 on my list for our next trip.

Please break the next part of your trip report into paragraphs for easier reading.

Part 2--From Paris, our group bussed to Chartres on a superb, sunny day to see the cathedral and environs. There were so few other tourists there, that we were able to see everything at our own pace. The sun was streaming through one of the rose windows creating a glowing pattern on the floor. A mystical moment!
We travelled back to Paris with a longish break in Versailles for lunch and a visit to the palace. This was the best tour of the latter I have ever experienced. The 4-5 other times have been in the summer, the place so packed that we all moved along the track like the sweaty filling for a tourist sandwich--absolutely nose to back! This time, with very low attendance, we were able to wander the rooms forth and back and linger where we wished. The gardens outside provided the green and oxygen our lungs craved after a lengthy time inside. A most rewarding and renewing visit!
Back in Paris, on our own for dinner, we settled in at L'Affriolé, Rue Malar, within walking distance from our hotel(the metros were still down with strikers). The 2-3 hr. meal from the set menu was very gourmet and delicious. I delighted in guinea fowl/foie gras paté, saddle of lamb kissed with basil and accompanied by cheese-flavored pureed potatoes, and a chocolate blini with cocoa sorbet and yogurt ice.
My husband enjoyed the asparagus/cucumber soup, the same lamb preparation as I, and a vanilla truffle ice cream rolled in hazelnuts. Heaven! As we started our "plat," a young American couple sat down next to us. We helped them decifer the menu and discovered they had just become engaged that evening. The rest of our meal included conversation with them and admiring the stars in their eyes and their joyful expressions. Our meal ended with coffee and a small bowl of hazelnuts and walnuts.
We walked back to the hotel with many views of the illuminated Eiffel Tower and counted ourselves extremely lucky retirees.
The next morning the group took the TGV to Avignon where we toured the Papal Palace. Our English-speaking Dutch guide was full of information and patience, a fortuitous combination in dealing with large groups. Again, our tour was unhurried.
Outside the palace, I heard the strains of Andean music. Spanish is my second language and it was fun to converse with the Ecuadorean musicians. They are always amazed to see a blond Scandinavian speaking in their own language with a few words of Quichua thrown in.
Our final destination for the day was Nimes. We bussed around the town, got settled in at our hotel, and then, set out on foot for the amphitheater and Maison Carré. A lovely town.
Part 3 to come.

Great! I hope your husband took a photo of you with that wonderful statue of the matador.

Hi,

Nice report. Who organized your tour?

This was a Far&Wide Tour, a group based in England, I was told. Several of the others in the group had done 3-4 other trips with this operator and were very pleased. (farandwide.com--look for Grand European Tours)

Back to the France trip. I last wrote about Nimes.
To: cigalechanta, Yes, that matador in Nimes was especially "gifted" and even in bronze!

We left Nimes by bus and headed to Nice, stopping in Grasse to take advantage of a visit to a Fragonard parfumerie establishment. The French painter of the same name was born and raised in this town, so it was not difficult to imagine the colors and fragrances which filled his senses as a child.
We bypassed Cannes which was filled to the gills(we saw this on TV) due to the film festival. After arrival at Nice on a spectacularly sunny and pleasant afternoon, we walked along the quais and soaked up all the local color.
For dinner, we drove along the Riviera for thrilling views of Cap Ferrat, Eze, etc. and stopped at a place high up in the hills. I believe it was called Relais de St. Martin. We had a gourmet, Nicoise meal savored for 2-3 hours as we also drank in the sunset over the water. We all were in a merry mood as we returned to Nice and so happy we didn't have to negociate the windy, steep roads back.
The next day we were on our own, so we walked along the beach to the Old City. We explored almost every nook and cranny there and, then, enjoyed a leisurely lunch at Le Safari. The set menu for us included lamb chops, greens, baked potato(artistically carved), tempura-style vegs, and creme brulee. We started with a Kir and had wine and mineral water with the meal. We sat outside under a long, colorful awning.
Across from the restaurant was part of an antique mart which stretched for blocks. The people-watching gained momentum by 12:30 when the restaurant was full as well as every walkway in the area. We browsed the antiques, the flower shops, etc. as we strolled back to our hotel(Holiday Inn).
Since neither of us had ever been in Monaco, we joined the group headed there in the evening. We are not gamblers, but enjoyed seeing the casino lobby and the swanky cars and people arriving and leaving from the posh hotel next door. The evening turned cold and wet and neither of us feels the need to return to Monte Carlo. Sort of "been there, done that."
The next day, we headed to the medieval walled city of Carcasonne. Our best friends had toured France on their own a couple years ago and raved about this place. Their pictures of it were so delightful that it was the major selling point of this particular tour.
On route, we stopped for lunch at Aigues Mortes, another tiny medieval, walled town. The skies were blue and cloud-free and we enjoyed the chance to get out and stretch our legs for a while. We both are avid walkers and have participated in hiking/walking tours elsewhere in Europe. A bus tour is upfront about what it is, but it was somewhat of a drawback to not get a healthy dose of exercise every day.
Our hotel in Carcasonne, the Mercure Porte de la Cite, was only a very short walk from one of the main gates into the city. The temps were quite chilly(mistral-induced, I believe), so the group walked a bit in the city and then, headed back.
The next day, most of the group headed off on an excursion to Lourdes. We stayed back and combed every inch of Carcassonne. We walked all the way around the town in the dry moat, sat in an almost empty church to meditate as the sun streamed through the gorgeous stained glass, checked out the lobbies of the Hotel de la Cite(very posh with medieval-looking wood carvings, tapestries, etc.) and the Best Western Donjon(suits of armor,lovely heavy furniture, damask weavings in the lobby), and bought a few souvenirs.
We walked back to the hotel, dumped our purchases and camera, and headed back into the town. We lunched at an unassuming, no-alcohol café on the 8€ set menu. Very acceptable, plain cooking. Relaxed during the afternoon back at the hotel and listened to all the "miraculous" tales from those who had been to Lourdes. Enough for now! This was a 16-day trip, after all. Anybody still with me?

This sounds like quite an enjoyable tour, though a bit of back-tracking with Nimes-Nice-Carcassonne. Can't wait to see where you go next.

Bless you, LVSue, for even taking the time to read it all! I really am pleased that so many people have gone to France to vacation lately. You had quite an extensive trip yourself! Did you have the experience of everyone asking you when you got home if you had been treated badly by the French? And by people who should be better informed than that? Welcome back to you!!

Carolyn, I'm still with you & I can't wait for you to post more, more, MORE!!

I had so many people telling me I shouldn't go in the 1st place. But I told them if God didn't want me to go he'd tell me himself!! And then, of course, these same people seemed disappointed when I said I had the absolute trip of a lifetime. Poor demented, depressed souls.

My lovely detail about our hotel room in Carcasonne. From our second floor window,framed outside by lush ivy, we could see the towers of the old city. The illumination at night took our breath away and added that touch of romance for which France is duly famous.

Thank you, Beatchick, LVSue, et.al.,for sticking with me.

From Carcasonne, we headed toward Bordeaux through peaceful, green fields. A stop in St. Emilion provided time to walk and climb up its steep lanes for the best views of the countryside. At noon, we found a charming tiny café hidden on a narrow, winding street, Les Giron'dines, Rue des Girondins. The loveliest surprise was a gorgeous terrace dining area, covered by a stylish awning and decorated with potted plants and antiques. We could make out the church steeple from our table. An omelette of "cepes", wonderful woodland mushrooms for me and a heary salade St. Emilionaise for my husband were the perfect accompaniment for a relaxing hiatus from touring. Oops, dinner awaits me. Back later.

Caroline=Schildc1 Did you like Aigues Mortes? (one of my favorite places to return to) I love my picture with "öur"
matador. We await your next installment.

Did you get to try the St. Emilion wine?? I hear it's wonderful!!

Carolyn...I'm just loving your trip report. Thanks so much for taking the time to write it for us. Regarding Carcassone: Is it worth a special side trip(3 hours from avignon)to spend a night? Does the Donjon appear to be a nie hotel? I've always wanted to visit Carcassone,but have read some negative comments on the City.

To: Cigalechanta--We loved Aigues Mortes despite the somewhat off-putting name! A calm and friendly place with lots of history. There were quite a few tourists in town(we saw the busses), but the streets were easily passable and many cafes had open tables at noon. No wonder you like the town!

To: Beatchick--Funny you should mention the St. Emilion wine. The group took us to a winery for a tasting. We were excited about it, since we have drunk and relished many bottles of St. Emilion vintages over the years. However, this tasting was the worst one we have ever had. The company rep even admitted that the ONE wine we tasted wasn't really "drinkable" yet. One wretched taste of one awful wine! My husband was angry and mentioned it later as the absolute low point of the entire trip. St. Emilion wines are full-bodied and wonderful, just not at the place we visited!

To: marthag--Carcassone is too good to miss. The Best Western Donjon has a terrific location IN the Old City. The rates we saw were75-95€ a night which we thought were very reasonable. Frankly, we decided we'd stay there on our next trip.

From St. Emilion, our day's final destination was Bordeaux. We had seen the city a few years ago and were shocked by its current condition. There is a massive project underway to create a modern metro and tramway system. It's been going on for 2-3 years already. The lovely city resembles a war zone. Just trying to get around on foot is a dirty, dusty trial. We tried the latter for about an hour and gave up. To balance off the afternoon "agony," we experienced culinary "ecstasy" at the Belle Epoque for dinner. The owner said the current, photo-worthy furnishings had been restored to its original state--lovely golds and azure blues. The dinner was gourmet and memorable--paté and chicken drumlets(baked and succulent)"amused our mouths." Then,
salad greens with warm goat cheese en croute, exquisite sliced duck breast with wine/cherry reduction, warm apple dessert(in a "pauper's pouch" pastry)adorned with red currant sorbet and assorted berries. The deep, dark coffee capped 2-3 hours of good conversation, marvellous dining, and general forgetting of the miserable state in which Bordeaux finds itself. I would honestly not return to that city until the construction project is completely finished!
Happy to leave chaotic Bordeaux, we made our way to Tours with a superb stop at the Courvoisier distillery in Jarnac. If the wine tasting, mentioned earlier, was a low point, the tour and tasting at Courvoisier was a zenith.

The guide, dressed in a very GQ suit and tie and sporting a well-trimmed goatee, spoke unaccented English(though he said he IS French) and was a fountain of good humor and information. The tasting included several grades of cognac, even rather expensive types. The professionalism was a key reason for many purchases made. Everyone left happy. I usually don't even care for cognac, but this time it was a perfumed, heady experience I liked. The young guide didn't hurt either!

We stayed in Tours two nights as our base for the chateau country. We walked around the city a bit one evening, but really only for exercise. We saw quite a bit of it a few years back.

The next morning, the skies were dark and threatening as we headed to Amboise. The tour of the chateau was very good due to beautifully furnished rooms and an excellent guide.

The next stop was Chenonceau--a truly lovely chateau with extensive history and amazing architecture and gardens. We had seen this place several times in the past, but I was still very taken by the enormous arrangements of fresh flowers in every room--a touch of contemporary living things among the centuries old decor. Quite a compelling juxtaposition! As we stepped out to stroll in the gardens, the thunder clapped and torrents of rain fell. So much for an extended visit. I got soaked(right through my raincoat!)as did everyone else. We gaped at Chambord from the bus. It was still pouring down and we were about chateau-ed out.

Some of the group had opted for a dinner in a chateau for that evening. We drove just outside of Tours to the Chateau de Beaulieu. The weather had improved and promised to stay that way. The table in our special dining room(a former parlor) was draped in peach damask with ample silver and glassware. Floral centerpieces scented the air. This setting was my favorite of the whole trip--so elegant with a long, historical past.

We began with a special Kir(champagne mixed with peach liqueur). This was yet another memorable meal--puff pastry appetizers(ham, spinach, etc.), foie gras with toast points, rack of lamb with a zucchini-base basket containing braised vegetables, sorbet with orange zest/orange/Grand Marnier reduction and coffee. Another long meal filled with good humor and the relaxation every good vacation should include. A wedding reception was going on in another hall and some of us peeked from afar to check out proper wedding attire for a French wedding, etc. Truly a delightful evening!

I always find it fascinating to watch wedding parties in foreign countries heading into churches or with the ceremony already underway. Sometimes, the couple wears traditional costumes and other times, you see the height of haute couture. Do others feel this way?

Tomorrow--on our way to Normandie.

Carolyn, the worst comments were from people saying, "Of course, you planned this before the war," or "We don't like the French very much now." Duh! It gave me great delight to return and tell them what a fabulous time I had. It's a good thing I've already had dinner--your meal reports have me drooling as it is.

I love Carcassonne, so much so that we returned after having had a brief taste on a student tour to stay at the Donjon. We got a good rate (AAA discount) on their website, and there is quite a good restaurant associated with hotel.

Mimi, I loved Aigues Mortes the same way after a brief touchdown during a tour. I would love to go back again.

Sue4, I'll be looking for your report, for I'm thinking our next trip (if I can get Bette out again) might have to include the Loire and Paris.

I forgot: the weird thing about the Donjon is that you park your car in a lot outside the walls. They sent a jitney for my DH and the luggage (I had tromped up to the hotel). After 6pm they go get your car and park it near the hotel, so when you leave, you get to go out through the winding streets. I guess there's no parking during tourist hours.

Just a note to let you know I enjoyed your trip reports. I have been to many of the places you mentioned, but certainly not all. Carcassone is still on my list of places to see that I have not seen yet.

I went to Aigues Mortes a few years ago when my daughter spent her junior year at the Universite de Montpellier. I loved Aigues Mortes. It was from that town that St. Louis left for the Crusades. It used to be right on the Mediterranean but the harbor got silted in.