FOCUS ON FRANCE: Paris and South of France
Nov 28th, 2016, 12:42 PM
#82
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I actually think it's an acquired taste. I absolutely love beans, so anything that features them is good with me, but it's one heavy-duty meal! If you do go to Emile, I'd reserve in advance, especially so you can get a table on the terrasse if it's nice weather.
Nov 29th, 2016, 07:45 AM
#85
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Friday, September 10, 2016
So onward into our journey through Dordogne where we encounter gentle beauty, historic charm, and an introduction to its gourmet delights. At 9 AM we were off to Cahors, a small city nestled in a bend of the Lot River.
Our morning stop was in a beautiful gorge along the Lot River. A main attraction was the 14th century Pont Valentre, part of the town of Cahors. This impressive bridge has seven arches which stretch across the river, and is capped with three square towers.
For years, no one was able to place the final stone on top of the central tower. It was dubbed the Devil’s Tower, because it was believed that the devil quarreled with the architect and was appeased only when his image was carved on the tower. From that legend, it is often referred to as “Devil’s Bridge.”
Along the river bank in this area, there is a walkway lined with tables and on a platform right above, a nice café, with umbrellas. It is a great spot for boats, which are traveling back and forth. The perfect weather day made this a delightful, relaxing stop. We stayed around the area for quite a while, walking amidst the flower gardens and along the river’s edge.
Our lunch was in the small town of Cahors, once among the richest banking centers of Europe. It is in the midst of wine producing country. The wealth from its banking and trade allowed the city to build and decorate beautiful mansions, churches, and public buildings, some of which have survived the wars of past centuries.
As with most towns we’ve visited, Cahors has a central square, with a fountain and clock tower, and is surrounded by city buildings. There are a few restaurants lining the area. Also, like most towns we visited, a cathedral was central. However, our time in Cahors was spent on the more mundane exploration of the unusually large and unique supermarket.
The market had several features which made it interesting to us. The whole building required a 360 degree walk to experience all the products. There were large sections for categories such as fruits, meats, seafood, wine, etc. One whole section of the meat area was devoted to foie gras.
Part of the market included counters for ordering food like salads, pizzas or paninis. After spending quite a bit of time exploring the market, we sat at a cafe table to eat a panini wrap of chicken and almonds. Laurent helped us purchase a bottle of rose’ wine from the seemingly hundreds of choices with friendly prices. Wine glasses were furnished by the market. We drank half the bottle and corked the remainder to take with us for later enjoyment.
As we’ve experienced in other towns, businesses close by 1 PM, some earlier. We were about the last ones in the market. Since all the shops and boutiques in the town were closed, only window shopping could be enjoyed. After a while strolling around, we did find a little restaurant near the square where we could get a café au lait, and of course, use their facilities.
After that stop in Cahors, we had a short drive to the medieval village of Rocamadour. The first sight of this beautiful village dramatic! It appears to cling to a precipitous cliff site, topped by a fortress, looming over the dramatic steep-walled valley of the Alzou River.
Rocamadour flourished in the 12th century when, according to legend, the body of a man, believed to be Zacchaeus, was found intact. After meeting Jesus, the story goes, Zaccheus, the tax collector, changed both his name and the direction of his life to convert others to Christianity. His name was thereafter Amadour.
Miracles occurred in Rocamadour and were attributed to Amadour. The name Rocamadour is derived from : Roca (rock) and Amadour. Many pilgrims came. When the village was seized by opposing forces, and attempts were made to burn the body of Amadour, it remained untouched by the flames.
Although interpretations of the history of Rocamadour vary, there is no doubt its popularity as a religious site. And, over the years, it continues to attract many tourists who are curious about the place, its history, and its dramatic scenery.
Rocamadour is three levels set into a rock hill-a dramatic and beautiful setting. The small shops, restaurants, houses, and a very few hotels are on the first level. To reach the second level, where the main church and several smaller chapels are located, requires a steep climb: 200+ steps. Apparently, many Christians climbed these steps on their knees. Fortunately, for us, there was an ascenseur (elevator) (40 seconds, 50 feet up for 2 EUR). We succumbed. On the third level is another chapel which we did not visit.
It is believed that the body of St. Amadour is preserved in a reliquary inside the church. Also, the church contains a small black Madonna statue, supposedly carved by Amadour. We did spend some time exploring the small lanes and arches of the second level, taking in the vistas, and visiting the beautiful church.
We made use of our return ticket on the ascenseur for descending to the village level. Although there were quite a few visitors, the long main street enabled the people to spread out. We enjoyed the many little alcoves which lined the area.
One highlight of the visit for Tom and me was a stop at a beautiful café overlooking the deep gorge with its rocky cliffs. We enjoyed a delicious apple torte with vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate, café au lait, and a clean restroom. The view and the dessert were both so delicious that we lingered there for a while.
Laurent had invited us to meet on a tree-shaded terrace where he treated us to a glass of wine from the winery of Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. At least it belonged to both at that time! Laurent joked around with the group for a while and everyone seemed to enjoy the experience.
Finally, it was onward into more of the Dordogne region. As we left the area of Rocamadour, the colors in the orange and gold tinged trees on the surrounding hills were outstanding. One last look back at the impressive Rocamadour for a final photo!
Traveling through the fertile floodplain of the Dordogne region, the attractions are evident: villages sculpted into the rocks, medieval towns, chateaux, lovely long vistas, a river valley, and fields of corn and walnut orchards, among other crops. The Dordogne is quite different from the sights and activity of larger cities, but has a richness of natural beauty, history, culture, and cuisine.
Walnuts are a prime crop of the Dordogne valley and the surrounding countryside. Apparently, the area has the perfect climate. During our travel, we saw miles of walnut groves. And due to the abundance of walnuts, many foods either contain walnuts, or are flavored with them. Walnut on salads, walnut oils, walnut cakes, and even walnut liqueurs. Each part of the walnut is used: from making furniture to the final scraps, we were told, used for cat litter.
The Dordogne area is known for its cuisine, with foie gras, and their famous pommes sarladaise, often served with confit de canard being, most popular. Of course, there are the walnuts, as mentioned above, and truffles, many native cheeses, and full-bodied red wines produced in the region.
Our stay for the next two nights would be in Brive-La-Gaillarde at La Truffle Noire Hotel. Our room on the 2nd floor faced the main street with outside dining areas around. This was a Friday night, and we feared noise, but it did not materialize.
Of the decisions we made on the trip, tonight’s was the worst. We were told that the main dish of a group dinner in the hotel would be beef with potatoes. That sounded OK. It seemed easier than finding a restaurant in the area. So we decided to just go with it, feeling tired out from the busy day. No one thought that beef would refer to a version of ground beef! And the potatoes were not the pommes sarladaise of the area!
The beginning of the meal was fine: a nice red wine, a green salad, and fresh bread. We do not claim to be culinary experts, but the main dish was bland, dry and unsavory. One by one, people were requesting ketchup from the kitchen. Ripples of laughter filtered through the room as people tried to moisten the meal with ketchup, and make a joke of the experience. The only bummer meal of the trip! We figured that the B Team must have been on for the evening. Fortunately, we sat with Yvonne and Rob, and another couple whom we liked. At least the company was good!
Following that dinner fiasco, we caught up on emails and notes. It was 11 PM until we turned in. Except for the less than palatable main dinner course, we had had another stimulating day.
Tomorrow: Lascaux Cave; Sarlat; Collonges de Rouge
So onward into our journey through Dordogne where we encounter gentle beauty, historic charm, and an introduction to its gourmet delights. At 9 AM we were off to Cahors, a small city nestled in a bend of the Lot River.
Our morning stop was in a beautiful gorge along the Lot River. A main attraction was the 14th century Pont Valentre, part of the town of Cahors. This impressive bridge has seven arches which stretch across the river, and is capped with three square towers.
For years, no one was able to place the final stone on top of the central tower. It was dubbed the Devil’s Tower, because it was believed that the devil quarreled with the architect and was appeased only when his image was carved on the tower. From that legend, it is often referred to as “Devil’s Bridge.”
Along the river bank in this area, there is a walkway lined with tables and on a platform right above, a nice café, with umbrellas. It is a great spot for boats, which are traveling back and forth. The perfect weather day made this a delightful, relaxing stop. We stayed around the area for quite a while, walking amidst the flower gardens and along the river’s edge.
Our lunch was in the small town of Cahors, once among the richest banking centers of Europe. It is in the midst of wine producing country. The wealth from its banking and trade allowed the city to build and decorate beautiful mansions, churches, and public buildings, some of which have survived the wars of past centuries.
As with most towns we’ve visited, Cahors has a central square, with a fountain and clock tower, and is surrounded by city buildings. There are a few restaurants lining the area. Also, like most towns we visited, a cathedral was central. However, our time in Cahors was spent on the more mundane exploration of the unusually large and unique supermarket.
The market had several features which made it interesting to us. The whole building required a 360 degree walk to experience all the products. There were large sections for categories such as fruits, meats, seafood, wine, etc. One whole section of the meat area was devoted to foie gras.
Part of the market included counters for ordering food like salads, pizzas or paninis. After spending quite a bit of time exploring the market, we sat at a cafe table to eat a panini wrap of chicken and almonds. Laurent helped us purchase a bottle of rose’ wine from the seemingly hundreds of choices with friendly prices. Wine glasses were furnished by the market. We drank half the bottle and corked the remainder to take with us for later enjoyment.
As we’ve experienced in other towns, businesses close by 1 PM, some earlier. We were about the last ones in the market. Since all the shops and boutiques in the town were closed, only window shopping could be enjoyed. After a while strolling around, we did find a little restaurant near the square where we could get a café au lait, and of course, use their facilities.
After that stop in Cahors, we had a short drive to the medieval village of Rocamadour. The first sight of this beautiful village dramatic! It appears to cling to a precipitous cliff site, topped by a fortress, looming over the dramatic steep-walled valley of the Alzou River.
Rocamadour flourished in the 12th century when, according to legend, the body of a man, believed to be Zacchaeus, was found intact. After meeting Jesus, the story goes, Zaccheus, the tax collector, changed both his name and the direction of his life to convert others to Christianity. His name was thereafter Amadour.
Miracles occurred in Rocamadour and were attributed to Amadour. The name Rocamadour is derived from : Roca (rock) and Amadour. Many pilgrims came. When the village was seized by opposing forces, and attempts were made to burn the body of Amadour, it remained untouched by the flames.
Although interpretations of the history of Rocamadour vary, there is no doubt its popularity as a religious site. And, over the years, it continues to attract many tourists who are curious about the place, its history, and its dramatic scenery.
Rocamadour is three levels set into a rock hill-a dramatic and beautiful setting. The small shops, restaurants, houses, and a very few hotels are on the first level. To reach the second level, where the main church and several smaller chapels are located, requires a steep climb: 200+ steps. Apparently, many Christians climbed these steps on their knees. Fortunately, for us, there was an ascenseur (elevator) (40 seconds, 50 feet up for 2 EUR). We succumbed. On the third level is another chapel which we did not visit.
It is believed that the body of St. Amadour is preserved in a reliquary inside the church. Also, the church contains a small black Madonna statue, supposedly carved by Amadour. We did spend some time exploring the small lanes and arches of the second level, taking in the vistas, and visiting the beautiful church.
We made use of our return ticket on the ascenseur for descending to the village level. Although there were quite a few visitors, the long main street enabled the people to spread out. We enjoyed the many little alcoves which lined the area.
One highlight of the visit for Tom and me was a stop at a beautiful café overlooking the deep gorge with its rocky cliffs. We enjoyed a delicious apple torte with vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate, café au lait, and a clean restroom. The view and the dessert were both so delicious that we lingered there for a while.
Laurent had invited us to meet on a tree-shaded terrace where he treated us to a glass of wine from the winery of Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. At least it belonged to both at that time! Laurent joked around with the group for a while and everyone seemed to enjoy the experience.
Finally, it was onward into more of the Dordogne region. As we left the area of Rocamadour, the colors in the orange and gold tinged trees on the surrounding hills were outstanding. One last look back at the impressive Rocamadour for a final photo!
Traveling through the fertile floodplain of the Dordogne region, the attractions are evident: villages sculpted into the rocks, medieval towns, chateaux, lovely long vistas, a river valley, and fields of corn and walnut orchards, among other crops. The Dordogne is quite different from the sights and activity of larger cities, but has a richness of natural beauty, history, culture, and cuisine.
Walnuts are a prime crop of the Dordogne valley and the surrounding countryside. Apparently, the area has the perfect climate. During our travel, we saw miles of walnut groves. And due to the abundance of walnuts, many foods either contain walnuts, or are flavored with them. Walnut on salads, walnut oils, walnut cakes, and even walnut liqueurs. Each part of the walnut is used: from making furniture to the final scraps, we were told, used for cat litter.
The Dordogne area is known for its cuisine, with foie gras, and their famous pommes sarladaise, often served with confit de canard being, most popular. Of course, there are the walnuts, as mentioned above, and truffles, many native cheeses, and full-bodied red wines produced in the region.
Our stay for the next two nights would be in Brive-La-Gaillarde at La Truffle Noire Hotel. Our room on the 2nd floor faced the main street with outside dining areas around. This was a Friday night, and we feared noise, but it did not materialize.
Of the decisions we made on the trip, tonight’s was the worst. We were told that the main dish of a group dinner in the hotel would be beef with potatoes. That sounded OK. It seemed easier than finding a restaurant in the area. So we decided to just go with it, feeling tired out from the busy day. No one thought that beef would refer to a version of ground beef! And the potatoes were not the pommes sarladaise of the area!
The beginning of the meal was fine: a nice red wine, a green salad, and fresh bread. We do not claim to be culinary experts, but the main dish was bland, dry and unsavory. One by one, people were requesting ketchup from the kitchen. Ripples of laughter filtered through the room as people tried to moisten the meal with ketchup, and make a joke of the experience. The only bummer meal of the trip! We figured that the B Team must have been on for the evening. Fortunately, we sat with Yvonne and Rob, and another couple whom we liked. At least the company was good!
Following that dinner fiasco, we caught up on emails and notes. It was 11 PM until we turned in. Except for the less than palatable main dinner course, we had had another stimulating day.
Tomorrow: Lascaux Cave; Sarlat; Collonges de Rouge
Nov 29th, 2016, 09:41 AM
#86
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Your report has me looking back at my photos from our two trips to the Dordogne, the Lot, and Languedoc. I love these areas of France. And your report is wonderful! I love the history you include. Thank you!
Dec 3rd, 2016, 06:56 AM
#88
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Preparation for holidays is upon us, and so is the ending of our report! Just two more days!
Saturday, September 10, 2016
At 8:30, we’re off for the Lascaux II Cave, near the town of Montignac. A twenty- minute stop just prior to the cave entrance took care of mid-morning café au lait and restroom.
Lascaux is a series of a complex of caves famous for its Paleolithic paintings. The paintings primarily consist of images of large animals, most of which are known from fossil evidence. With carbon dating, their ages are estimated to be about 17,000 years old. Lascaux II has been added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
On our visit, the story of the caves, as described, was that in September, 1940, the entrance to the Lascaux Cave was discovered by a French teenager, Marcel Ravidat, who died in 1995. He was an apprentice garage mechanic, and was walking in the woods when he came upon the cave entrance which had been uncovered by the fall of a giant tree.
The young man brought a couple of friends to see it. After a few days, they confided their discovery to a teacher. They returned to the pitch dark cave, armed with a grease gun borrowed from the garage, entering through a long shaft. There they were amazed to discover that the cave walls were covered with depictions of animals: charging bulls, leaping stags, and galloping horses.
Because of the German occupation of France, the French Resistance used the caves to store weapons during WW II. The cave was not opened to the public until 1948, three years after the war.
There was fear among scientists that the original Lascaux Cave was deteriorating due to several causes, one of which was the large number of visitors. So Lascaux II was designed to be a scientific copy of the original.
Great tour by a local guide! So much unknown about the why’s and how’s; the symbolism and meaning of the drawings. We liked the orientation…revival of our anthropology courses, including Cro-Magnon man. Great to review and renew.
Lascaux II is just one of many caves in the surrounding areas. There are plans for a 3-D modern museum describing the caves.
After that little foray into the Paleolithic period, we looked forward to our visit to Sarlat-la-Caneda, only about seventeen miles north. We knew that the Saturday market would be in full swing; not realizing just how full.
The approach to the town was beautiful, surrounded as it is by green forested hills. And many of the homes in the area seemed very elegant. Apparently, Sarlat-la-Canada is among France’s best preserved 14th century towns.
But when approaching the city center- gads! The hordes of people that cluttered the narrow streets were a sight to behold.
Cars were parked for quite a way along the streets. Negotiating the crowded streets to discover the important sites was a bit of a challenge. Without the crowds, the town would be easy to negotiate, as it is compact. But weaving through the crowds to pass all the vendors’ temporary stalls, which we would later visit, was quite a feat.
We walked some of the cobblestone alleys, enjoying the beautiful buildings, many with wrought-iron balconies. Many have stone roofs which were said to be less expensive and could last 200 years. But, they are extremely heavy!
Near the Eglise Ste. Marie is the well-known landmark of the three bronze geese. We knew we were in the town famous for its foie gras, having passed several shops advertising such.
Invited to meet at a small café, which we’re sure Laurent had booked ahead, he treated our group to wine and foie gras on crackers. It was our first sampling of foie gras, and we actually enjoyed it. However, considering the high fat content, and expense, we thought that we wouldn’t want to get too excited about it. This treat was a prelude to lunch on this little backstreet before entering the busier market areas.
Tom and I found a nice restaurant and were seated at a fine location near the door, where we could witness the activity on the street without having people walk by our sidewalk seats. Tom’s omelette with mushrooms was excellent while Margie enjoyed the flavorful chicken breast with those “to die for” Pommes de Terres Sarladaises: sliced ¼”, cooked in goose fat, with seasonings added. Rose’ wine also. Oh, those delectable Pommes! Calorie-laden, but delicious.
After that delightful lunch, we ventured out to the crowded streets. We could only look at the perishables, but it was enjoyable to view the colorful array of meats, and fresh looking fruits and vegetables. Of course, their popular walnuts and truffles were there in abundance. And in this foie gras area, there was an ample amount of that delicacy also.
Then there were appealing and valuable items such as French-made table linens, women’s clothing, jewelry, pottery, etc. The two constants on the streets in Sarlat, as in other villages we’ve visited, are cafes galore with menu boards enticing visitors. And then, mixed in with the booths described above, is the array of souvenir shops which mostly sell trivia of medieval times, t-shirts, ceramics, etc.
Many cities in France seem to have their Rue de la Republique, and Sarlat is no exception. Its small city center is off limits to cars. Without the crowds on market day, a walk through Sarlat would be easy, as it’s one main road with smaller alleys branching off it-all pedestrian only. But, for us, it was interesting to experience the Saturday market.
Following our visit to the busy Sarlat Market, we drove on through the Dordogne valley to Collonges La Rouge, a village constructed of the red sandstone hewn from the surrounding hills. En route to the village, we passed many vineyards and walnut trees.
The founding of a priory in Collenges La Rouge by monks in the 8th century attracted peasants, craftsmen, and tradesmen, and was the beginning of the town. The community gradually grew, profitting from the overnight accommodations provided to pilgrims headed to Santiago de Compostella in Spain. The French Revolution caused the destruction of the priory buildings.
After regaining only a short-lasting prosperity at the beginning of the 19th century, the population dwindled and finally the village was transformed into a stone quarry. However, at the beginning of the 20th century, some villagers created an association to preserve Collonges. It obtained the classification of the entire village as a historical monument in 1942.
This village is distinctive with its red stone, and like other little towns we’ve visited, has quite a few narrow winding alleys with small shops: pottery, table linens, fragrances, ice cream, cafes, and other souvenirs.
We are feeling fatigued and reaching the end of our travels in the South of France. After exploring the village for a short time, we enjoyed a beer with Yvonne and Rob at a small café that had a restroom for customers. We relaxed in that spot for a good half-hour.
The twenty-minute drive back to our hotel was enjoyable as we traveled through the beautiful Dordogne Valley.
Since we would be leaving early in the morning to catch the TGV train back to Paris, Margie organized the luggage while Tom wrote some diary notes, and we finished the ½ bottle of rose’ we had left over from the Cahors marketplace two days ago. We were aware that the stores were all closed after 5 PM, so decided to use the time in our hotel room to relax a bit until dinner.
About 7 PM, we walked a short distance up the street to the Au Bureau Restaurant. We were surprised to see Yvonne and Rob who had not yet ordered. They invited us to join them at a neighboring table for two. Another coincidental meeting with the same friends! Another fun social discussion and a pizza to split with a Ruby beer for Tom and vin rouge for Margie. A nice atmosphere and enjoyable final meal before we depart this area for our return to Paris.
We were back in hotel room by about 9:15, time to organize a few last minute items. We would leave at 8 AM en route to the train station in Poitiers. We’re scheduled to be 1 ½ hours early at the station, giving time for lunch before our 1:10 TGV train departure, with arrival in Paris close to 5 PM.
As we turned in for the evening, we recounted some of the experiences we had had on our excursion through the South of France. But we were also feeling an eagerness for one final day in Paris!
Saturday, September 10, 2016
At 8:30, we’re off for the Lascaux II Cave, near the town of Montignac. A twenty- minute stop just prior to the cave entrance took care of mid-morning café au lait and restroom.
Lascaux is a series of a complex of caves famous for its Paleolithic paintings. The paintings primarily consist of images of large animals, most of which are known from fossil evidence. With carbon dating, their ages are estimated to be about 17,000 years old. Lascaux II has been added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
On our visit, the story of the caves, as described, was that in September, 1940, the entrance to the Lascaux Cave was discovered by a French teenager, Marcel Ravidat, who died in 1995. He was an apprentice garage mechanic, and was walking in the woods when he came upon the cave entrance which had been uncovered by the fall of a giant tree.
The young man brought a couple of friends to see it. After a few days, they confided their discovery to a teacher. They returned to the pitch dark cave, armed with a grease gun borrowed from the garage, entering through a long shaft. There they were amazed to discover that the cave walls were covered with depictions of animals: charging bulls, leaping stags, and galloping horses.
Because of the German occupation of France, the French Resistance used the caves to store weapons during WW II. The cave was not opened to the public until 1948, three years after the war.
There was fear among scientists that the original Lascaux Cave was deteriorating due to several causes, one of which was the large number of visitors. So Lascaux II was designed to be a scientific copy of the original.
Great tour by a local guide! So much unknown about the why’s and how’s; the symbolism and meaning of the drawings. We liked the orientation…revival of our anthropology courses, including Cro-Magnon man. Great to review and renew.
Lascaux II is just one of many caves in the surrounding areas. There are plans for a 3-D modern museum describing the caves.
After that little foray into the Paleolithic period, we looked forward to our visit to Sarlat-la-Caneda, only about seventeen miles north. We knew that the Saturday market would be in full swing; not realizing just how full.
The approach to the town was beautiful, surrounded as it is by green forested hills. And many of the homes in the area seemed very elegant. Apparently, Sarlat-la-Canada is among France’s best preserved 14th century towns.
But when approaching the city center- gads! The hordes of people that cluttered the narrow streets were a sight to behold.
Cars were parked for quite a way along the streets. Negotiating the crowded streets to discover the important sites was a bit of a challenge. Without the crowds, the town would be easy to negotiate, as it is compact. But weaving through the crowds to pass all the vendors’ temporary stalls, which we would later visit, was quite a feat.
We walked some of the cobblestone alleys, enjoying the beautiful buildings, many with wrought-iron balconies. Many have stone roofs which were said to be less expensive and could last 200 years. But, they are extremely heavy!
Near the Eglise Ste. Marie is the well-known landmark of the three bronze geese. We knew we were in the town famous for its foie gras, having passed several shops advertising such.
Invited to meet at a small café, which we’re sure Laurent had booked ahead, he treated our group to wine and foie gras on crackers. It was our first sampling of foie gras, and we actually enjoyed it. However, considering the high fat content, and expense, we thought that we wouldn’t want to get too excited about it. This treat was a prelude to lunch on this little backstreet before entering the busier market areas.
Tom and I found a nice restaurant and were seated at a fine location near the door, where we could witness the activity on the street without having people walk by our sidewalk seats. Tom’s omelette with mushrooms was excellent while Margie enjoyed the flavorful chicken breast with those “to die for” Pommes de Terres Sarladaises: sliced ¼”, cooked in goose fat, with seasonings added. Rose’ wine also. Oh, those delectable Pommes! Calorie-laden, but delicious.
After that delightful lunch, we ventured out to the crowded streets. We could only look at the perishables, but it was enjoyable to view the colorful array of meats, and fresh looking fruits and vegetables. Of course, their popular walnuts and truffles were there in abundance. And in this foie gras area, there was an ample amount of that delicacy also.
Then there were appealing and valuable items such as French-made table linens, women’s clothing, jewelry, pottery, etc. The two constants on the streets in Sarlat, as in other villages we’ve visited, are cafes galore with menu boards enticing visitors. And then, mixed in with the booths described above, is the array of souvenir shops which mostly sell trivia of medieval times, t-shirts, ceramics, etc.
Many cities in France seem to have their Rue de la Republique, and Sarlat is no exception. Its small city center is off limits to cars. Without the crowds on market day, a walk through Sarlat would be easy, as it’s one main road with smaller alleys branching off it-all pedestrian only. But, for us, it was interesting to experience the Saturday market.
Following our visit to the busy Sarlat Market, we drove on through the Dordogne valley to Collonges La Rouge, a village constructed of the red sandstone hewn from the surrounding hills. En route to the village, we passed many vineyards and walnut trees.
The founding of a priory in Collenges La Rouge by monks in the 8th century attracted peasants, craftsmen, and tradesmen, and was the beginning of the town. The community gradually grew, profitting from the overnight accommodations provided to pilgrims headed to Santiago de Compostella in Spain. The French Revolution caused the destruction of the priory buildings.
After regaining only a short-lasting prosperity at the beginning of the 19th century, the population dwindled and finally the village was transformed into a stone quarry. However, at the beginning of the 20th century, some villagers created an association to preserve Collonges. It obtained the classification of the entire village as a historical monument in 1942.
This village is distinctive with its red stone, and like other little towns we’ve visited, has quite a few narrow winding alleys with small shops: pottery, table linens, fragrances, ice cream, cafes, and other souvenirs.
We are feeling fatigued and reaching the end of our travels in the South of France. After exploring the village for a short time, we enjoyed a beer with Yvonne and Rob at a small café that had a restroom for customers. We relaxed in that spot for a good half-hour.
The twenty-minute drive back to our hotel was enjoyable as we traveled through the beautiful Dordogne Valley.
Since we would be leaving early in the morning to catch the TGV train back to Paris, Margie organized the luggage while Tom wrote some diary notes, and we finished the ½ bottle of rose’ we had left over from the Cahors marketplace two days ago. We were aware that the stores were all closed after 5 PM, so decided to use the time in our hotel room to relax a bit until dinner.
About 7 PM, we walked a short distance up the street to the Au Bureau Restaurant. We were surprised to see Yvonne and Rob who had not yet ordered. They invited us to join them at a neighboring table for two. Another coincidental meeting with the same friends! Another fun social discussion and a pizza to split with a Ruby beer for Tom and vin rouge for Margie. A nice atmosphere and enjoyable final meal before we depart this area for our return to Paris.
We were back in hotel room by about 9:15, time to organize a few last minute items. We would leave at 8 AM en route to the train station in Poitiers. We’re scheduled to be 1 ½ hours early at the station, giving time for lunch before our 1:10 TGV train departure, with arrival in Paris close to 5 PM.
As we turned in for the evening, we recounted some of the experiences we had had on our excursion through the South of France. But we were also feeling an eagerness for one final day in Paris!
Dec 3rd, 2016, 01:05 PM
#89
You could have bought Tracy a couple of tablecloths in Sarlat and saved me!
It's very cool you got to go to Collenges La Rouge...lovely town.
Great report and sorry to see it end. Look forward to your final Paris day.
It's very cool you got to go to Collenges La Rouge...lovely town.
Great report and sorry to see it end. Look forward to your final Paris day.
Dec 3rd, 2016, 08:12 PM
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Aw shucks! We should have picked up a tablecloth or two for Tracy. Our experience with the linens was good and bad: good for our wallets, bad for our table setting. We wanted placemats and they were sold out!
Dec 13th, 2016, 01:58 PM
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Sunday, September 11, 2016
15th anniversary of 9/11/01. WOW…Sobering Memories !!!
At 8 AM, we were on our way to the train station in Poitiers. We'd had a wonderful two weeks getting a taste of different regions of the South of France, re-visiting a couple of former favs and exploring new areas.
Today we’re heading back to Paris on the TGV. In addition to former day trips on trains, we have pleasant memories of a TGV trip from Paris to Avignon a few years ago, so we were looking forward to the experience.
After traveling about an hour and a half, we made a stop at a gas station/ convenient market near the city of Limoges, known for its porcelain. We bought a small vase as a memento. Then we were off to travel another couple of hours to reach Poitiers. We arrived at the train station about 11:30 and had until 12:45 to have lunch.
To say that we were chagrined at the conditions of the station restroom, one filthy facility for both men and women, would be an understatement. The only option for food in the station was a Chez Paul deli-type carry-out where we ordered a less than appetizing chicken with mustard sandwich and a light Coke. We went outside to eat as the condition of the “Gare” was unpleasant, and had limited places to sit.
Fortunately, only a short walk from the plaza of the station we found a delightful place, Agora Café, perfect for café’au laits and clean restrooms. Gads! French restrooms are really a problem, at least in many places that we visited. However, this café was a happy find!
In plenty of time, we were at the train tracks, located a level below the station entrance. We had been encouraged to move quickly to board Coach 19. And, right on time, the train pulled in, stopped briefly, and we were off to Paris. Fortunately, we had had that stop at the Agora Café’ and made use of their restrooms, because the bathrooms on the train were, let’s say, sorely lacking. Other than that, the train ride itself was fine.
Sitting across from Allison and Neal, delightful, well-traveled Australian acquaintances, the time went quickly. We arrived at the Montparnasse Station in Paris about 4:50 where a coach was waiting to take us to our hotel.
Upon arrival at our Marriott Hotel Paris Rive Gauche, our luggage was already in our rooms. This Marriott was a nice hotel, as are most of them, with all the amenities. We were happy to be back in Paris and had a few ideas for enjoying our evening.
Our original idea was to catch a taxi to Boul. St. Germain and have dinner at the delightful restaurant Vagenende which we really enjoyed when in Paris two weeks ago. We would then walk to the Pont Neuf for an evening river cruise. However, realizing that we’ve never explored the area around the hotel, we decided to stay in Montparnasse to enjoy our evening and have dinner.
After freshening up, we explored the area and headed to the L’Allouette Restaurant, a recommendation of the hotel concierge. It was less than ten minutes from our hotel and proved to be a great choice.
As the evening weather was delightful, we were seated on their outdoor patio. Both of our meals included a salad and fries. For our mains, Margie had the most flavorful, tender veal cutlet she could remember, while Tom’s fish was just average. Our meal was accompanied with drinks, followed by a sorbet dessert. The atmosphere was pleasant, the waiter was efficient and fun, and we met a friendly US couple with whom we shared some experiences.
We were decompressing and depressing as we wound down from our wonderful trip. We had enjoyed so many stimulating experiences, but were ready to return home and started to think about the events which were coming up there. One last full day remained and then we were headed back to the US.
Monday, September 12, 2016
Giverny; Seine River Cruise; Finale Dinner
What to do our last day in Paris? We had a few ideas. We had considered watching the weather, and if it was favorable, visiting Giverny.
We had visited Monet’s Home and Garden twice in the past, taking the train and bus combo. But when the offer was there to travel on the coach for a very reasonable price, we decided to take advantage of it.
We were off at 7 AM. Giverny is a good ride, almost 2 hours depending upon traffic. The peripherique, the one and only expressway that circles Paris, was crowded with the volume of traffic that was traveling into and out of the city. Once on the highway, it was a smooth ride along the Seine to the exit at Vernon, and within a few more minutes, we arrived at Giverny about 9 AM.
We knew from our reading that, in contrast to former years, Giverny often gets very crowded. Even cruise ships bus in people. Ticket sales began at 9:30. Although we were among the first, the line behind us was already lengthy.
We slowly followed the paths around the Japanese gardens, and the regular gardens, making intermittent stops, and finally visited Monet’s house. In late summer, there’s still enough color to make it a worthwhile venture. We lingered in the gardens closest to the house, and even enjoyed relaxing on a bench surrounded by flowers.
A visit inside the house was interesting, even though we’ve visited it previously. It’s hard to imagine that this great artist lived in these ordinary conditions. Also, that maintaining a beautiful garden was his priority.
After a couple of hours, we were ready for our return trip to Paris. Although a short visit in Giverny, and an inadequate amount of time to really do justice and explore, given the hordes of visitors, we were satisfied with our little re-visit of the beautiful garden.
We had seen Monet’s Garden in spring, in mid-summer, and now in late summer. For the most colorful flowers, mid-summer takes the prize. And, on former visits, we did not experience such huge crowds. But it was worth the trip, especially given how easy and time-saving it was to ride in the coach vs. our previous trips on our own via a train/bus combo.
Another change of our plans occurred in the afternoon of our last day. We intended to take off on our own and enjoy our final day in Paris. But when we returned to the Marriott, and had an opportunity to tour Paris with a native Parisian, we decided to take advantage of it. We had to hustle to meet Alex, the guide, so Tom picked up a “take away” sandwich from the Brasserie down the street, and quickly doubled back to share with Margie, who was in the room prepping clothes for the evening.
Alex spoke great English, and had a wonderful sense of humor. He had a law degree, and has been studying several languages. Even though we’ve been in Paris quite a few times, we learned so much from Alex about familiar areas. It was interesting to see Paris from the perspective of a local, learning about restaurants which are their favs, etc. We visited a few little neighborhoods, as well as some of the city highlights, before arriving at the Bateaux Parisiens for a one-hour cruise of the Seine.
Although we’ve had our share of boat cruises on the Seine, we always enjoy them. The boat cruise was a perfect way to have a final view of Paris from the vantage point of the river. It was about 5 PM or later as we wound our way back to the hotel. While Tom hit the ATM, Margie took care of flight check-in, leaving us only a short time to freshen up for dinner.
The finale dinner was in Le Procope Café, called the oldest restaurant in Paris in continuous operation. It started as a café where “gentlemen” met to drink coffee. Throughout the 18th century, Procope was the meeting place of the intellectual establishment, including visits by Benjamin Franklin, John Paul Jones, and Thomas Jefferson.
The Café Procope was refurbished in 1988-89 in 18th Century style, including crystal chandeliers, and portraits of famous people who have been their patrons. Coincidentally, it’s just up the street from our “home away from home” Le Regent Hotel, and we’ve passed it on several of our past visits to Paris.
The attractive ambience of the restaurant was a fitting place to enjoy our final meal before taking leave. The meal was delicious, from the wine to the dessert; the service was efficient. We were again seated across from our friends, Yvonne and Rob.
Since some of us were leaving early the following morning, it was a time for final farewells. We returned to the Marriott by about 9 PM with more good-byes in the lobby. We would be off early for CDG.
Wonderful memories! Great tour, with ample time on our own! Nice people! It has been good!
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2016
Au revoir,Paris!
We opted to take advantage of the tour company’s transport to CVG. Although our flight wasn’t until 1:30 PM, knowing what a hassle CDG can be, and not wanting to feel rushed, we chose to depart at 7 AM vs.the later 10 AM option. The hotel restaurant had just opened for breakfast, allowing us to grab a quick bite.
We were pleased that Laurent, our tour guide, was in the lobby to see that the six of us, leaving on the early coach, got off and wished us a final farewell.
Leaving Montparnasse in the dark, we had our last glimpse of the city lights, including the Eifel Tower. Upon arriving at CDG, buses are only permitted to park at Terminal C. Since we were leaving from Terminal E, we had a bit of a distance to walk in the sprawling CDG airport.
With luggage in tow, we needed to go through immigration before catching a shuttle to our correct terminal. We felt relaxed as we waited in the long immigration line, given that we had plenty of time. When the line was moving extremely slowly, we looked up at the windows to see that most of them were closed. No agents. No wonder it took so long.
When we finally arrived in our Terminal E, we had time to get a bite to eat and do some window shopping in some of the top-drawer stores.
Our flight boarded and took off on time, and the flight was smooth. En route, we recounted many of the wonderful experiences of our trip: the beauty of the Alps and the Cote d’Azur, learning so much about the rich history of France, appreciating the wines in Burgundy and a few other areas, the delectable cuisine, the scenery and small towns of Provence, the Languedoc, and Dordogne, and the wonderful days in Paris. This trip proved to be the “France Sampler” which we hoped for.
On board, Margie watched “Casablanca”; both of us listened to the music of the Broadway Musical “Hamilton”. Nine hours later, we were happy to land in Cincinnati where, again, we had to go through customs, claim and re-claim our luggage, before departing the airport.
Our Shuttle was waiting in baggage claim, and within minutes of getting our bags, we were on our way for the forty-minute drive to our home.
Arriving home in the early evening, we recalled our experience of returning from Europe in the past two years and decided not to push to stay awake. We had a bowl of soup and turned in early in order to get back on our time schedule.
In the morning, we awoke to our lush green lawn and flowers still blooming. It had been a wonderful trip and we were happy to be home!
15th anniversary of 9/11/01. WOW…Sobering Memories !!!
At 8 AM, we were on our way to the train station in Poitiers. We'd had a wonderful two weeks getting a taste of different regions of the South of France, re-visiting a couple of former favs and exploring new areas.
Today we’re heading back to Paris on the TGV. In addition to former day trips on trains, we have pleasant memories of a TGV trip from Paris to Avignon a few years ago, so we were looking forward to the experience.
After traveling about an hour and a half, we made a stop at a gas station/ convenient market near the city of Limoges, known for its porcelain. We bought a small vase as a memento. Then we were off to travel another couple of hours to reach Poitiers. We arrived at the train station about 11:30 and had until 12:45 to have lunch.
To say that we were chagrined at the conditions of the station restroom, one filthy facility for both men and women, would be an understatement. The only option for food in the station was a Chez Paul deli-type carry-out where we ordered a less than appetizing chicken with mustard sandwich and a light Coke. We went outside to eat as the condition of the “Gare” was unpleasant, and had limited places to sit.
Fortunately, only a short walk from the plaza of the station we found a delightful place, Agora Café, perfect for café’au laits and clean restrooms. Gads! French restrooms are really a problem, at least in many places that we visited. However, this café was a happy find!
In plenty of time, we were at the train tracks, located a level below the station entrance. We had been encouraged to move quickly to board Coach 19. And, right on time, the train pulled in, stopped briefly, and we were off to Paris. Fortunately, we had had that stop at the Agora Café’ and made use of their restrooms, because the bathrooms on the train were, let’s say, sorely lacking. Other than that, the train ride itself was fine.
Sitting across from Allison and Neal, delightful, well-traveled Australian acquaintances, the time went quickly. We arrived at the Montparnasse Station in Paris about 4:50 where a coach was waiting to take us to our hotel.
Upon arrival at our Marriott Hotel Paris Rive Gauche, our luggage was already in our rooms. This Marriott was a nice hotel, as are most of them, with all the amenities. We were happy to be back in Paris and had a few ideas for enjoying our evening.
Our original idea was to catch a taxi to Boul. St. Germain and have dinner at the delightful restaurant Vagenende which we really enjoyed when in Paris two weeks ago. We would then walk to the Pont Neuf for an evening river cruise. However, realizing that we’ve never explored the area around the hotel, we decided to stay in Montparnasse to enjoy our evening and have dinner.
After freshening up, we explored the area and headed to the L’Allouette Restaurant, a recommendation of the hotel concierge. It was less than ten minutes from our hotel and proved to be a great choice.
As the evening weather was delightful, we were seated on their outdoor patio. Both of our meals included a salad and fries. For our mains, Margie had the most flavorful, tender veal cutlet she could remember, while Tom’s fish was just average. Our meal was accompanied with drinks, followed by a sorbet dessert. The atmosphere was pleasant, the waiter was efficient and fun, and we met a friendly US couple with whom we shared some experiences.
We were decompressing and depressing as we wound down from our wonderful trip. We had enjoyed so many stimulating experiences, but were ready to return home and started to think about the events which were coming up there. One last full day remained and then we were headed back to the US.
Monday, September 12, 2016
Giverny; Seine River Cruise; Finale Dinner
What to do our last day in Paris? We had a few ideas. We had considered watching the weather, and if it was favorable, visiting Giverny.
We had visited Monet’s Home and Garden twice in the past, taking the train and bus combo. But when the offer was there to travel on the coach for a very reasonable price, we decided to take advantage of it.
We were off at 7 AM. Giverny is a good ride, almost 2 hours depending upon traffic. The peripherique, the one and only expressway that circles Paris, was crowded with the volume of traffic that was traveling into and out of the city. Once on the highway, it was a smooth ride along the Seine to the exit at Vernon, and within a few more minutes, we arrived at Giverny about 9 AM.
We knew from our reading that, in contrast to former years, Giverny often gets very crowded. Even cruise ships bus in people. Ticket sales began at 9:30. Although we were among the first, the line behind us was already lengthy.
We slowly followed the paths around the Japanese gardens, and the regular gardens, making intermittent stops, and finally visited Monet’s house. In late summer, there’s still enough color to make it a worthwhile venture. We lingered in the gardens closest to the house, and even enjoyed relaxing on a bench surrounded by flowers.
A visit inside the house was interesting, even though we’ve visited it previously. It’s hard to imagine that this great artist lived in these ordinary conditions. Also, that maintaining a beautiful garden was his priority.
After a couple of hours, we were ready for our return trip to Paris. Although a short visit in Giverny, and an inadequate amount of time to really do justice and explore, given the hordes of visitors, we were satisfied with our little re-visit of the beautiful garden.
We had seen Monet’s Garden in spring, in mid-summer, and now in late summer. For the most colorful flowers, mid-summer takes the prize. And, on former visits, we did not experience such huge crowds. But it was worth the trip, especially given how easy and time-saving it was to ride in the coach vs. our previous trips on our own via a train/bus combo.
Another change of our plans occurred in the afternoon of our last day. We intended to take off on our own and enjoy our final day in Paris. But when we returned to the Marriott, and had an opportunity to tour Paris with a native Parisian, we decided to take advantage of it. We had to hustle to meet Alex, the guide, so Tom picked up a “take away” sandwich from the Brasserie down the street, and quickly doubled back to share with Margie, who was in the room prepping clothes for the evening.
Alex spoke great English, and had a wonderful sense of humor. He had a law degree, and has been studying several languages. Even though we’ve been in Paris quite a few times, we learned so much from Alex about familiar areas. It was interesting to see Paris from the perspective of a local, learning about restaurants which are their favs, etc. We visited a few little neighborhoods, as well as some of the city highlights, before arriving at the Bateaux Parisiens for a one-hour cruise of the Seine.
Although we’ve had our share of boat cruises on the Seine, we always enjoy them. The boat cruise was a perfect way to have a final view of Paris from the vantage point of the river. It was about 5 PM or later as we wound our way back to the hotel. While Tom hit the ATM, Margie took care of flight check-in, leaving us only a short time to freshen up for dinner.
The finale dinner was in Le Procope Café, called the oldest restaurant in Paris in continuous operation. It started as a café where “gentlemen” met to drink coffee. Throughout the 18th century, Procope was the meeting place of the intellectual establishment, including visits by Benjamin Franklin, John Paul Jones, and Thomas Jefferson.
The Café Procope was refurbished in 1988-89 in 18th Century style, including crystal chandeliers, and portraits of famous people who have been their patrons. Coincidentally, it’s just up the street from our “home away from home” Le Regent Hotel, and we’ve passed it on several of our past visits to Paris.
The attractive ambience of the restaurant was a fitting place to enjoy our final meal before taking leave. The meal was delicious, from the wine to the dessert; the service was efficient. We were again seated across from our friends, Yvonne and Rob.
Since some of us were leaving early the following morning, it was a time for final farewells. We returned to the Marriott by about 9 PM with more good-byes in the lobby. We would be off early for CDG.
Wonderful memories! Great tour, with ample time on our own! Nice people! It has been good!
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2016
Au revoir,Paris!
We opted to take advantage of the tour company’s transport to CVG. Although our flight wasn’t until 1:30 PM, knowing what a hassle CDG can be, and not wanting to feel rushed, we chose to depart at 7 AM vs.the later 10 AM option. The hotel restaurant had just opened for breakfast, allowing us to grab a quick bite.
We were pleased that Laurent, our tour guide, was in the lobby to see that the six of us, leaving on the early coach, got off and wished us a final farewell.
Leaving Montparnasse in the dark, we had our last glimpse of the city lights, including the Eifel Tower. Upon arriving at CDG, buses are only permitted to park at Terminal C. Since we were leaving from Terminal E, we had a bit of a distance to walk in the sprawling CDG airport.
With luggage in tow, we needed to go through immigration before catching a shuttle to our correct terminal. We felt relaxed as we waited in the long immigration line, given that we had plenty of time. When the line was moving extremely slowly, we looked up at the windows to see that most of them were closed. No agents. No wonder it took so long.
When we finally arrived in our Terminal E, we had time to get a bite to eat and do some window shopping in some of the top-drawer stores.
Our flight boarded and took off on time, and the flight was smooth. En route, we recounted many of the wonderful experiences of our trip: the beauty of the Alps and the Cote d’Azur, learning so much about the rich history of France, appreciating the wines in Burgundy and a few other areas, the delectable cuisine, the scenery and small towns of Provence, the Languedoc, and Dordogne, and the wonderful days in Paris. This trip proved to be the “France Sampler” which we hoped for.
On board, Margie watched “Casablanca”; both of us listened to the music of the Broadway Musical “Hamilton”. Nine hours later, we were happy to land in Cincinnati where, again, we had to go through customs, claim and re-claim our luggage, before departing the airport.
Our Shuttle was waiting in baggage claim, and within minutes of getting our bags, we were on our way for the forty-minute drive to our home.
Arriving home in the early evening, we recalled our experience of returning from Europe in the past two years and decided not to push to stay awake. We had a bowl of soup and turned in early in order to get back on our time schedule.
In the morning, we awoke to our lush green lawn and flowers still blooming. It had been a wonderful trip and we were happy to be home!
Dec 18th, 2018, 07:34 AM
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Kja, thanks so much for your compliment on our TR. It's especially meaningful coming from an experienced traveler such as yourself. I thought our France TR was buried deep, never to be unearthed. Just happened to see your post, and was reminded of the wonderful experiences on that trip. Now I have to get going on our TR from Spain this past September!
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Feb 13th, 2015 06:44 PM
