FOCUS ON FRANCE: Paris and South of France
Nov 13th, 2016, 05:35 AM
#42
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TPAYT, agree about the French Riviera calling us back. We're talking about making our next visit longer, and in another town along the coast.
Adelaidean, nice to have your continued interest in our travel ventures. Aiming to post the next segment of our foray into more of inland Provence.
Adelaidean, nice to have your continued interest in our travel ventures. Aiming to post the next segment of our foray into more of inland Provence.
Nov 13th, 2016, 07:04 PM
#43
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2016
Destination: Avignon
via St. Paul de Vence;
Aix-en-Provence;
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Last evening, before turning in, we soaked in the view of the lights up and down the Cote d’Azur. This morning we would say farewell to that beautiful coast, satisfied that we had the chance to experience a taste of it. And leaving no doubt about our desire for a return visit.
About 8 AM we were off to St. Paul de Vence, another small hilltop village, one of several others we would be visiting in Provence. We were among the first to arrive, as the shopkeepers were just having their morning café’. The cobblestone alleys of the town were ours to enjoy with few other visitors around.
In St. Paul de Vence, as in other old villages we would visit, small shops and restaurants line the passages and are nestled in some of the rocky crevices. We found it easy to negotiate the village.
Our first goal was a walk down the main alley to the cemetery where Chagall’s grave site was located. Although his gravesite is simple, it was well worth the walk to enjoy the gardens and the view from the area, high above the sea.
We walked the hilly, winding streets, stopping in the church of St. Paul, and admiring the paintings in the galleries lining the little alleys. Our only purchase was some postcards to add to our collection.
We found a café near the edge of town for our mid-morning café/restroom stop and were off sometime after 11 AM heading to Aix-en-Provence, a university city with a large historic center.
As we traveled farther into Provence, we would discover monuments from the Roman Empire, monasteries from the Romanesque Period, medieval palaces and churches, as well as numerous hilltop villages, two of which we had already visited. Artists such as Van Gogh, Cezanne, and Chagall all enjoyed years in Provence.
We were introduced to Le Mistral, the cold, northerly winds which affect a wide swath of the area of Provence. The country of France is affected by winds from a variety of sources, among them the Gulf Stream, the Mediterranean, and the Atlantic. A mild climate prevails along the coast, but in winter, the cold, dry northerly Mistral may bring sudden, cold spells to a significant portion of the southern regions. In summer, the winds are generally soft and bring relief from overpowering heat.
Over the years, the Mistrals have had effects on the architecture of many places. Bell towers on churches were constructed with open frames so as to allow the winds to pass through without causing destruction. Homes were built to face south, so as to prevent the wind from coming in the front doors.
As we entered Aix-en-Provence, it was interesting to be greeted by an Apple store across from the Fontaine de la Rotonde, on a main town square. We would see numerous fountains in Aix in Provence. And the Aix Cathedral, Saint-Savieur, shows the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture.
The main street of Aix, Cours Mirabeau, is a fairly wide avenue lined with trees, mansions, shops, and restaurants. A busy market was in full swing. We arrived in the town at a good time: the market was open and there was a variety of restaurants open for business.
Among the number of market vendors were a couple of artists. We had intended to purchase an oil painting from a street artist in Paris. Not finding any there, we were delighted to find a painting that we liked in Aix.
We discussed the painting over a Ravioli St. Jacques at Bastide du Cours Restaurant on Cours Mirabeau. The subject of the painting was the café up the avenue which Cezanne frequented while he lived in Aix, but it reminded us of so many cafes we’ve visited in France.
We decided that we definitely liked the painting, as well as the artist, and hurried off to make the purchase. The artist carefully removed the painting, which was stretched on a wooden frame, to make it easier for travel. At that point, we were almost completely out of EUR. An ATM would be a necessary stop very soon.
Aix-en-Provence was mainly appreciated for the opportunity to purchase an original oil which we liked, and for the tasty lunch. It was a good stopping point en route to Avignon. We realized that Aix itself had many things to discover, but as we moved farther into the Provence area, there were so many villages of which the same thing could be said.
In Aix, we saw the effect of the Mistral on the angling of the trees lining the Cours Mirabeau. It was a very warm day, so the wind seemed a welcome breeze. However, in cold weather that mistral apparently makes it very uncomfortable in Aix.
We were off to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, meaning New Castle of the Pope, a small French village famous for its beautiful landscapes and delicious wines. As its name suggests, Chateauneuf du Pape’s history is intrinsically connected to the castle that was built at the top of the hill as a papal summer home during the 1300’s.
Although the soil around Chateauneuf-du-Pape is excellent for grape growing, and its outstanding wines are widely known, summer dry spells, exacerbated by the Mistral winds, make the nearby Rhone River a source for needed irrigation.
We stopped at HB Le Pavillon des Vins for a wine tasting. There are so many wineries in the area that if we had to decide on our own, we wouldn’t know which one to select.
Gathered in a room surrounded with large wine casks, we enjoyed the tasting of different wines. The main thing we took away from this stop is that a variety of grapes are grown in the Chateauneuf–du-Pape area, and that the wines produced are various combos of these grapes. Syrah is a popular wine in the area.
The gift shop had quite a selection of moderately priced wine accouterments. We bought a cork type stopper and a wine opener that Rob recommended from his experience working in a winery in Australia. Practical souvenirs!
Finally, we stopped at an overlook as we approached Avignon. We saw the now abandoned castle, formerly the summer palace of the pope. From atop the hill, we overlooked the town of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and had a sweeping view of the Rhone River far below. The extremely strong winds there reminded us of Mt. Washington in New Hampshire. Hold your balance so as not to be blown over!
Given that it was late afternoon, with work traffic in full swing, we would drive another half-hour to reach Avignon. As we drove along the Rhone River, we realized that it is much larger than we had known, and its waters looked blue on this beautiful day.
We viewed the famous Pont d’Avignon, about which the famed song is written. Officially the name is Pont St-Benezet. He was a shepherd who supposedly had a vision which inspired the construction of the bridge. Its significance was that it was the only bridge crossing the mighty Rhone River, and useful for commerce. Unfortunately, all that remains, after destructive floods, is a fraction of its twenty-two arches, and the tiny Chapel of St. Nicholas which is said to contain the remains of Benezet.
Avignon’s history is intimately connected with its selection as the papal residence, and the construction of the famous Palais des Papes in the 14th century. Prior to the Palais, the Romanesque cathedral of Notre-Dame-des-Doms had been built. The two impressive stone structures are so close that they appear as one contiguous edifice overlooking a large square.
As we drove the few blocks from the Rhone River to the city, we admired the impressive walls of Avignon which were constructed in the 1300’s and surround the entire Papal Palace complex. Reaching the Grand Hotel in Avignon about 6:15, we were happy to discover that it was located across the street from the wall where there was an entrance to the Palace area. Convenient location! Both the hotel and our room were attractive, and we would spend three nights here.
After check-in, a little downtime was appreciated. A meal was scheduled for 7:30 in the hotel restaurant. Early on, we had considered having dinner someplace on the Place de la Republique, inside the wall, so to speak. But after the long but stimulating day, we were quite happy to take advantage of the meal in the hotel.
We sat with our buddies, Elizabeth, Edith, and Ady. The main meal: gilt head bream fish (from the Mediterranean, we learned) and ratatouille, a popular dish of the area, with a fresh green salad, wine, and dessert.
Following the meal, we were invited to see their 2-story room, which we teased was their townhouse. Again, it was a good time.
Tomorrow: Day trip to Arles; Pont Du Gard; Late PM-Avignon
Destination: Avignon
via St. Paul de Vence;
Aix-en-Provence;
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Last evening, before turning in, we soaked in the view of the lights up and down the Cote d’Azur. This morning we would say farewell to that beautiful coast, satisfied that we had the chance to experience a taste of it. And leaving no doubt about our desire for a return visit.
About 8 AM we were off to St. Paul de Vence, another small hilltop village, one of several others we would be visiting in Provence. We were among the first to arrive, as the shopkeepers were just having their morning café’. The cobblestone alleys of the town were ours to enjoy with few other visitors around.
In St. Paul de Vence, as in other old villages we would visit, small shops and restaurants line the passages and are nestled in some of the rocky crevices. We found it easy to negotiate the village.
Our first goal was a walk down the main alley to the cemetery where Chagall’s grave site was located. Although his gravesite is simple, it was well worth the walk to enjoy the gardens and the view from the area, high above the sea.
We walked the hilly, winding streets, stopping in the church of St. Paul, and admiring the paintings in the galleries lining the little alleys. Our only purchase was some postcards to add to our collection.
We found a café near the edge of town for our mid-morning café/restroom stop and were off sometime after 11 AM heading to Aix-en-Provence, a university city with a large historic center.
As we traveled farther into Provence, we would discover monuments from the Roman Empire, monasteries from the Romanesque Period, medieval palaces and churches, as well as numerous hilltop villages, two of which we had already visited. Artists such as Van Gogh, Cezanne, and Chagall all enjoyed years in Provence.
We were introduced to Le Mistral, the cold, northerly winds which affect a wide swath of the area of Provence. The country of France is affected by winds from a variety of sources, among them the Gulf Stream, the Mediterranean, and the Atlantic. A mild climate prevails along the coast, but in winter, the cold, dry northerly Mistral may bring sudden, cold spells to a significant portion of the southern regions. In summer, the winds are generally soft and bring relief from overpowering heat.
Over the years, the Mistrals have had effects on the architecture of many places. Bell towers on churches were constructed with open frames so as to allow the winds to pass through without causing destruction. Homes were built to face south, so as to prevent the wind from coming in the front doors.
As we entered Aix-en-Provence, it was interesting to be greeted by an Apple store across from the Fontaine de la Rotonde, on a main town square. We would see numerous fountains in Aix in Provence. And the Aix Cathedral, Saint-Savieur, shows the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture.
The main street of Aix, Cours Mirabeau, is a fairly wide avenue lined with trees, mansions, shops, and restaurants. A busy market was in full swing. We arrived in the town at a good time: the market was open and there was a variety of restaurants open for business.
Among the number of market vendors were a couple of artists. We had intended to purchase an oil painting from a street artist in Paris. Not finding any there, we were delighted to find a painting that we liked in Aix.
We discussed the painting over a Ravioli St. Jacques at Bastide du Cours Restaurant on Cours Mirabeau. The subject of the painting was the café up the avenue which Cezanne frequented while he lived in Aix, but it reminded us of so many cafes we’ve visited in France.
We decided that we definitely liked the painting, as well as the artist, and hurried off to make the purchase. The artist carefully removed the painting, which was stretched on a wooden frame, to make it easier for travel. At that point, we were almost completely out of EUR. An ATM would be a necessary stop very soon.
Aix-en-Provence was mainly appreciated for the opportunity to purchase an original oil which we liked, and for the tasty lunch. It was a good stopping point en route to Avignon. We realized that Aix itself had many things to discover, but as we moved farther into the Provence area, there were so many villages of which the same thing could be said.
In Aix, we saw the effect of the Mistral on the angling of the trees lining the Cours Mirabeau. It was a very warm day, so the wind seemed a welcome breeze. However, in cold weather that mistral apparently makes it very uncomfortable in Aix.
We were off to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, meaning New Castle of the Pope, a small French village famous for its beautiful landscapes and delicious wines. As its name suggests, Chateauneuf du Pape’s history is intrinsically connected to the castle that was built at the top of the hill as a papal summer home during the 1300’s.
Although the soil around Chateauneuf-du-Pape is excellent for grape growing, and its outstanding wines are widely known, summer dry spells, exacerbated by the Mistral winds, make the nearby Rhone River a source for needed irrigation.
We stopped at HB Le Pavillon des Vins for a wine tasting. There are so many wineries in the area that if we had to decide on our own, we wouldn’t know which one to select.
Gathered in a room surrounded with large wine casks, we enjoyed the tasting of different wines. The main thing we took away from this stop is that a variety of grapes are grown in the Chateauneuf–du-Pape area, and that the wines produced are various combos of these grapes. Syrah is a popular wine in the area.
The gift shop had quite a selection of moderately priced wine accouterments. We bought a cork type stopper and a wine opener that Rob recommended from his experience working in a winery in Australia. Practical souvenirs!
Finally, we stopped at an overlook as we approached Avignon. We saw the now abandoned castle, formerly the summer palace of the pope. From atop the hill, we overlooked the town of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and had a sweeping view of the Rhone River far below. The extremely strong winds there reminded us of Mt. Washington in New Hampshire. Hold your balance so as not to be blown over!
Given that it was late afternoon, with work traffic in full swing, we would drive another half-hour to reach Avignon. As we drove along the Rhone River, we realized that it is much larger than we had known, and its waters looked blue on this beautiful day.
We viewed the famous Pont d’Avignon, about which the famed song is written. Officially the name is Pont St-Benezet. He was a shepherd who supposedly had a vision which inspired the construction of the bridge. Its significance was that it was the only bridge crossing the mighty Rhone River, and useful for commerce. Unfortunately, all that remains, after destructive floods, is a fraction of its twenty-two arches, and the tiny Chapel of St. Nicholas which is said to contain the remains of Benezet.
Avignon’s history is intimately connected with its selection as the papal residence, and the construction of the famous Palais des Papes in the 14th century. Prior to the Palais, the Romanesque cathedral of Notre-Dame-des-Doms had been built. The two impressive stone structures are so close that they appear as one contiguous edifice overlooking a large square.
As we drove the few blocks from the Rhone River to the city, we admired the impressive walls of Avignon which were constructed in the 1300’s and surround the entire Papal Palace complex. Reaching the Grand Hotel in Avignon about 6:15, we were happy to discover that it was located across the street from the wall where there was an entrance to the Palace area. Convenient location! Both the hotel and our room were attractive, and we would spend three nights here.
After check-in, a little downtime was appreciated. A meal was scheduled for 7:30 in the hotel restaurant. Early on, we had considered having dinner someplace on the Place de la Republique, inside the wall, so to speak. But after the long but stimulating day, we were quite happy to take advantage of the meal in the hotel.
We sat with our buddies, Elizabeth, Edith, and Ady. The main meal: gilt head bream fish (from the Mediterranean, we learned) and ratatouille, a popular dish of the area, with a fresh green salad, wine, and dessert.
Following the meal, we were invited to see their 2-story room, which we teased was their townhouse. Again, it was a good time.
Tomorrow: Day trip to Arles; Pont Du Gard; Late PM-Avignon
Nov 16th, 2016, 04:02 PM
#45
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We're working on it now. Feeling inundated with the historical richness of so many areas! Actually, at this point, it's more satisfying to work on our photo album. Family and friends seem to be more interested in those.
Nov 17th, 2016, 12:46 AM
#47
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Always enjoy reading your trip report, toma. I was in Avignon this summer and knew some historical facts that you posted here, I really appreciate your style. Hope more newbies could read your writing.
Nov 18th, 2016, 06:40 AM
#49
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2016
Yesterday’s experiences in Provence en route to Avignon: St. Paul de Vence, Aix-en-Provence, and Chateauneuf des Papes whetted our interest to discover more history and beauty of southern France.
Today we’re off to Arles…about 22 miles from Avignon. It is known by some as “the soul of Provence”. Art lovers, archeologists, and historians are attracted to Arles, with its 2500 year history. First inhabited by the Greeks, Arles was mainly built up by the Romans who left a theater, a magnificent amphitheater, as well as other impressive structures. In 1981, the Roman and Romanesque Monuments of Arles were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Our two big interests in Arles: the Roman antiquities and Vincent Van Gogh. Having traveled to places with dilapidated remains of their former selves, we had learned that Arles was dotted with Roman structures that appeared barely untouched.
En route to Arles, mistral winds were evident with the bent trees and shrubs, and dry lands. We traveled through sun-drenched expanses of spent sunflowers, precursors to learning about Van Gogh. With the Rhone River for irrigation, in addition to vineyards, the area has olive groves, large fields of rice, as well as other vegetables.In the Roman days, it was a four-day trip by ship from Arles to Rome via a canal into the Mediterranean; hence, it was a very important harbor and shipping area for the local products, olive oil being a significant one.
After an initial café stop in the heart of Arles, we ascended the long steps to the preserved amphitheatre entrance where, even today, they conduct live events, including concerts. Posters advertising upcoming attractions are displayed. This amphitheatre was built around the first century, capable of accommodating 20,000 people; some historians say 30,000. During the Middle Ages, four towers were built and it was used as a fortification, containing houses and two chapels. It is one of the best preserved Roman arenas in France.
At the entrance to the amphitheatre we met Jacqueline, a local guide, who led us on a tour. With the many winding, twisting streets of Arles, it was helpful to have a guide to learn about the Roman monuments and gain information about the days of Roman occupation. Jacqueline had a lot of spunk and sharpness for an older lady, and it was a challenge for our little group to keep up with her as she quickly climbed the cobblestone steps with agility.
Intermixed with reminders of Roman days, we saw several sites which are the subjects of Van Gogh’s paintings.
Van Gogh was thirty-five years old when he arrived in Arles in 1888, and spent fifteen months there. Although a most tumultuous time in his life, it was also the most artistically prolific. It is said that he produced about 300 paintings in Arles and nearby St. Remy. Coming from the gray skies and flat lands of the Netherlands and Paris, he loved the sun-drenched expanse of olive groves and the open countryside, in season filled with scented lavender or brilliant sunflowers. Above all, Van Gogh loved the phenomenal light of the area.
Our interest in Van Gogh’s work is concentrated on the paintings with enhanced color which is more characteristic of his paintings around Arles. Of special interest was his painting Café de la Nuit, which today was filled with many lunch patrons. The garden of the hospital where Van Gogh spent time is very recognizable from familiarity with his paintings. Interestingly, an artist who was very informed about Van Gogh was on our tour, and provided more details about his life and work.
Although Arles was the subject of so many of Van Gogh’s paintings, no actual works are there; only a Foundation which sponsors temporary exhibitions of his paintings. We’re glad that we had visited the Musee d’Orsay in Paris to enjoy a few. Someday we hope to re-visit Amsterdam which has the most sizable collection of his work. One of Van Gogh’s more famous paintings, Starry Night, was inspired by the skyline of Arles, and is in the MoMa in New York City. And Cincinnati is currently hosting an exhibit of Van Gogh. So we’ll be adequately Van Gogh’d for a while. And, we should add, that Van Gogh is just one of many artists whose works we appreciate.
Of the many notable sights in Arles, the church of St. Trophime, built between the 12th and 15th centuries, stands out. It is an important example of Romanesque architecture. And the sculptures over the west portal, particularly of the Last Judgment, are considered some of the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture. The figures are so well preserved that they appear to have been a recent works.
St. Trophime is located on the famous Place de la Republique near the Town Hall. In the 4th century, the Egyptian obelisk, the former centerpiece of the Arles’ Roman Circus, was moved here. A fountain and bronze sculptures were added to the base during the 19th century.
After viewing so many Roman remains, we visited the “new” Hotel de Ville, constructed in 1676. An impressive structure, it has a central court with a perfectly smooth vaulted ceiling, without a large central column, supported entirely by carefully joined stones resting on columns. It is known as the boldest work of masonry of its time! This was the age of Louis XIV, with an increase of prosperity, following the destructive wars of religion in the previous century. It symbolized the rise of the power of the bourgeoisie of the French cities.
Feeling inundated with so much history and so many facts about Van Gogh, hunger was getting the better of us. Conveniently, just off the main square, there was a bank where Tom withdrew some needed EUR, while Margie, who had a yen for crepes, hastened to Le Grill to order lunch. We each had a delicious light crepe filled with cheese, ham, and egg accompanied with our daily rose’. With hunger satiated, we were ready to move on from Arles.
Leaving Arles, we witnessed a few divers on the shore searching under water for ancient artifacts. We learned that, in the recent past, they have found a statue head of Julius Caesar; 20 pair of used Roman shoes, and other ancient treasures.
We felt like we had had a crash course in ancient history, and realized how little we still knew and how many questions still remained. Saturated with facts, we were ready to move on.
Off to Pont du Gard, a perfectly-preserved Roman aqueduct built in about 19 BC. Mind-boggling! Pont du Gard rises about 160 ft. above the Gardon River, with a length of 1180 ft. Its three levels and 47 arches on the uppermost level, create a stunning sight. Pont du Gard was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1985.
The visitors’ area around the Pont du Gard has an instructive museum. It details how the magnificent structure is revered not only for its architectural design and construction which, to this day, remains intact, but for the engineering and mathematical calculations that were involved in carrying water from the mountains, dropping altitude and controlling flow at the appropriate rate to supply water to Nimes. And it’s almost incredulous that the whole structure was constructed without mortar.
To reach the Pont du Gard from the Visitors’ Center, we followed the paved path which allows an introductory view of the river, and gradually leads to the Pont itself. An overwhelming sight, especially pondering the age of the bridge, and the amazing range of skills involved in the construction.
We spent some time walking across the lower level of bridge, enjoying the views of the river, with people sunbathing on its banks and canoeing. On this gorgeous day, it looked tempting to be there with them!
We walked some of the surrounding paths finding favorable viewing spots. But considering all the stimulation of the day, we were ready to leave Pont du Gard and return to Avignon.
Entering the city, we enjoyed another view of the Rhone, and made a brief stop at our hotel before heading up to the Rue de la Republique. Before visiting Avignon, we hadn’t realized that the cobblestoned, traffic-free Rue de la Republique leading up to the Palace, together with the courtyard of the Cathedral and Palace itself, was the main area of the city. The action is concentrated there. In fact, we learned that the location of the Papal headquarters here from roughly 1300-1400 put Avignon on the map, so to speak. It developed from a small village to the thriving city which it remains today.
Our heads were more energetic than our feet as we made our way up the old popular street, lined with numerous shops and restaurants, as well as the Opera House and the Hotel de Ville. We climbed the steps to the Papal Palace entrance and purchased tickets for a tour of the Palace. ($22. Including audio phones).
The Palace of the Popes is considered the finest gothic building in Provence, and the largest gothic structure in Europe. It was constructed between 1334 and 1364, and served as the seat of the papal curia. The Papacy was located in Avignon from 1307-1377, through seven popes.
While the outside of the Palace looks like a solid limestone fortress, the inside had been lavishly decorated with tapestries, frescoes, sculptures, and carved wooden ceilings. Almost all of the furniture, art work, and other artifacts have been removed. However, in one room there is a series of videos to provide an idea of what the interior might have looked like when it was fully active.
As we walked on cobblestones, and climbed flights of steps moving through the palace, our day of walking and climbing steps in Arles and Pont du Gard was catching up with us. Partially through the tour, we succumbed to an inviting bench, avoiding the many more steps ahead. Instead, we relaxed by an impressive open courtyard and listened to the remainder of the description. The whole palace complex is impressive and extremely well-preserved.
Exiting the Palace, we crossed through the large open courtyard, onto the main cobbled Clock Tower Square (Place de l’Horloge) where La Grille Restaurant looked tempting for a 6 PM dinner. Margie chose a veal mignon while Tom enjoyed spaghetti Bolognese. Tom ordered 50cl of beer, and Margie had the same quantity in a bottle of vin rouge, not realizing what 50 cl of wine meant. The evening was again delightful for outdoor dining. Both meals were delicious, and the wine quantity was more than both of us could finish.
Tired from the busy day, we began our trek back to the Grand Hotel, window-shopping along the way. There was still plenty of action along the Rue de la Republique. We paused at another outdoor place for a little nightcap.
The sun was just beginning to set as we reached the end of street, and it cast a bright image of the surrounding buildings on a large reflecting pool. We stopped briefly to enjoy it. As we reached our hotel, the sun’s last rays were illuminating the fortified city wall. Also a pretty sight. And the disappearing sun symbolized our depleted energy.
We were happy to be back in our hotel.
Another activity-filled day!
Tomorrow: Les Baux; More Avignon Exploration
Yesterday’s experiences in Provence en route to Avignon: St. Paul de Vence, Aix-en-Provence, and Chateauneuf des Papes whetted our interest to discover more history and beauty of southern France.
Today we’re off to Arles…about 22 miles from Avignon. It is known by some as “the soul of Provence”. Art lovers, archeologists, and historians are attracted to Arles, with its 2500 year history. First inhabited by the Greeks, Arles was mainly built up by the Romans who left a theater, a magnificent amphitheater, as well as other impressive structures. In 1981, the Roman and Romanesque Monuments of Arles were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Our two big interests in Arles: the Roman antiquities and Vincent Van Gogh. Having traveled to places with dilapidated remains of their former selves, we had learned that Arles was dotted with Roman structures that appeared barely untouched.
En route to Arles, mistral winds were evident with the bent trees and shrubs, and dry lands. We traveled through sun-drenched expanses of spent sunflowers, precursors to learning about Van Gogh. With the Rhone River for irrigation, in addition to vineyards, the area has olive groves, large fields of rice, as well as other vegetables.In the Roman days, it was a four-day trip by ship from Arles to Rome via a canal into the Mediterranean; hence, it was a very important harbor and shipping area for the local products, olive oil being a significant one.
After an initial café stop in the heart of Arles, we ascended the long steps to the preserved amphitheatre entrance where, even today, they conduct live events, including concerts. Posters advertising upcoming attractions are displayed. This amphitheatre was built around the first century, capable of accommodating 20,000 people; some historians say 30,000. During the Middle Ages, four towers were built and it was used as a fortification, containing houses and two chapels. It is one of the best preserved Roman arenas in France.
At the entrance to the amphitheatre we met Jacqueline, a local guide, who led us on a tour. With the many winding, twisting streets of Arles, it was helpful to have a guide to learn about the Roman monuments and gain information about the days of Roman occupation. Jacqueline had a lot of spunk and sharpness for an older lady, and it was a challenge for our little group to keep up with her as she quickly climbed the cobblestone steps with agility.
Intermixed with reminders of Roman days, we saw several sites which are the subjects of Van Gogh’s paintings.
Van Gogh was thirty-five years old when he arrived in Arles in 1888, and spent fifteen months there. Although a most tumultuous time in his life, it was also the most artistically prolific. It is said that he produced about 300 paintings in Arles and nearby St. Remy. Coming from the gray skies and flat lands of the Netherlands and Paris, he loved the sun-drenched expanse of olive groves and the open countryside, in season filled with scented lavender or brilliant sunflowers. Above all, Van Gogh loved the phenomenal light of the area.
Our interest in Van Gogh’s work is concentrated on the paintings with enhanced color which is more characteristic of his paintings around Arles. Of special interest was his painting Café de la Nuit, which today was filled with many lunch patrons. The garden of the hospital where Van Gogh spent time is very recognizable from familiarity with his paintings. Interestingly, an artist who was very informed about Van Gogh was on our tour, and provided more details about his life and work.
Although Arles was the subject of so many of Van Gogh’s paintings, no actual works are there; only a Foundation which sponsors temporary exhibitions of his paintings. We’re glad that we had visited the Musee d’Orsay in Paris to enjoy a few. Someday we hope to re-visit Amsterdam which has the most sizable collection of his work. One of Van Gogh’s more famous paintings, Starry Night, was inspired by the skyline of Arles, and is in the MoMa in New York City. And Cincinnati is currently hosting an exhibit of Van Gogh. So we’ll be adequately Van Gogh’d for a while. And, we should add, that Van Gogh is just one of many artists whose works we appreciate.
Of the many notable sights in Arles, the church of St. Trophime, built between the 12th and 15th centuries, stands out. It is an important example of Romanesque architecture. And the sculptures over the west portal, particularly of the Last Judgment, are considered some of the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture. The figures are so well preserved that they appear to have been a recent works.
St. Trophime is located on the famous Place de la Republique near the Town Hall. In the 4th century, the Egyptian obelisk, the former centerpiece of the Arles’ Roman Circus, was moved here. A fountain and bronze sculptures were added to the base during the 19th century.
After viewing so many Roman remains, we visited the “new” Hotel de Ville, constructed in 1676. An impressive structure, it has a central court with a perfectly smooth vaulted ceiling, without a large central column, supported entirely by carefully joined stones resting on columns. It is known as the boldest work of masonry of its time! This was the age of Louis XIV, with an increase of prosperity, following the destructive wars of religion in the previous century. It symbolized the rise of the power of the bourgeoisie of the French cities.
Feeling inundated with so much history and so many facts about Van Gogh, hunger was getting the better of us. Conveniently, just off the main square, there was a bank where Tom withdrew some needed EUR, while Margie, who had a yen for crepes, hastened to Le Grill to order lunch. We each had a delicious light crepe filled with cheese, ham, and egg accompanied with our daily rose’. With hunger satiated, we were ready to move on from Arles.
Leaving Arles, we witnessed a few divers on the shore searching under water for ancient artifacts. We learned that, in the recent past, they have found a statue head of Julius Caesar; 20 pair of used Roman shoes, and other ancient treasures.
We felt like we had had a crash course in ancient history, and realized how little we still knew and how many questions still remained. Saturated with facts, we were ready to move on.
Off to Pont du Gard, a perfectly-preserved Roman aqueduct built in about 19 BC. Mind-boggling! Pont du Gard rises about 160 ft. above the Gardon River, with a length of 1180 ft. Its three levels and 47 arches on the uppermost level, create a stunning sight. Pont du Gard was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1985.
The visitors’ area around the Pont du Gard has an instructive museum. It details how the magnificent structure is revered not only for its architectural design and construction which, to this day, remains intact, but for the engineering and mathematical calculations that were involved in carrying water from the mountains, dropping altitude and controlling flow at the appropriate rate to supply water to Nimes. And it’s almost incredulous that the whole structure was constructed without mortar.
To reach the Pont du Gard from the Visitors’ Center, we followed the paved path which allows an introductory view of the river, and gradually leads to the Pont itself. An overwhelming sight, especially pondering the age of the bridge, and the amazing range of skills involved in the construction.
We spent some time walking across the lower level of bridge, enjoying the views of the river, with people sunbathing on its banks and canoeing. On this gorgeous day, it looked tempting to be there with them!
We walked some of the surrounding paths finding favorable viewing spots. But considering all the stimulation of the day, we were ready to leave Pont du Gard and return to Avignon.
Entering the city, we enjoyed another view of the Rhone, and made a brief stop at our hotel before heading up to the Rue de la Republique. Before visiting Avignon, we hadn’t realized that the cobblestoned, traffic-free Rue de la Republique leading up to the Palace, together with the courtyard of the Cathedral and Palace itself, was the main area of the city. The action is concentrated there. In fact, we learned that the location of the Papal headquarters here from roughly 1300-1400 put Avignon on the map, so to speak. It developed from a small village to the thriving city which it remains today.
Our heads were more energetic than our feet as we made our way up the old popular street, lined with numerous shops and restaurants, as well as the Opera House and the Hotel de Ville. We climbed the steps to the Papal Palace entrance and purchased tickets for a tour of the Palace. ($22. Including audio phones).
The Palace of the Popes is considered the finest gothic building in Provence, and the largest gothic structure in Europe. It was constructed between 1334 and 1364, and served as the seat of the papal curia. The Papacy was located in Avignon from 1307-1377, through seven popes.
While the outside of the Palace looks like a solid limestone fortress, the inside had been lavishly decorated with tapestries, frescoes, sculptures, and carved wooden ceilings. Almost all of the furniture, art work, and other artifacts have been removed. However, in one room there is a series of videos to provide an idea of what the interior might have looked like when it was fully active.
As we walked on cobblestones, and climbed flights of steps moving through the palace, our day of walking and climbing steps in Arles and Pont du Gard was catching up with us. Partially through the tour, we succumbed to an inviting bench, avoiding the many more steps ahead. Instead, we relaxed by an impressive open courtyard and listened to the remainder of the description. The whole palace complex is impressive and extremely well-preserved.
Exiting the Palace, we crossed through the large open courtyard, onto the main cobbled Clock Tower Square (Place de l’Horloge) where La Grille Restaurant looked tempting for a 6 PM dinner. Margie chose a veal mignon while Tom enjoyed spaghetti Bolognese. Tom ordered 50cl of beer, and Margie had the same quantity in a bottle of vin rouge, not realizing what 50 cl of wine meant. The evening was again delightful for outdoor dining. Both meals were delicious, and the wine quantity was more than both of us could finish.
Tired from the busy day, we began our trek back to the Grand Hotel, window-shopping along the way. There was still plenty of action along the Rue de la Republique. We paused at another outdoor place for a little nightcap.
The sun was just beginning to set as we reached the end of street, and it cast a bright image of the surrounding buildings on a large reflecting pool. We stopped briefly to enjoy it. As we reached our hotel, the sun’s last rays were illuminating the fortified city wall. Also a pretty sight. And the disappearing sun symbolized our depleted energy.
We were happy to be back in our hotel.
Another activity-filled day!
Tomorrow: Les Baux; More Avignon Exploration
Nov 20th, 2016, 03:27 PM
#53
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just catching up and reliving holidays of previous years through your report. We have visited France several times and been to most of the places you have visited but your report makes me want to go back again.
Nov 20th, 2016, 06:35 PM
#54
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Denise, I'm excited for you! Paris is wonderful anytime, but the holidays are special. Have a great trip! And thanks for following along with ours.
ParisAmsterdam, glad to have you following along. Hope to have our next segment soon.
Helsie, happy that our report has the effect of making you want to return to places you've visited. France is special, isn't it?
ParisAmsterdam, glad to have you following along. Hope to have our next segment soon.
Helsie, happy that our report has the effect of making you want to return to places you've visited. France is special, isn't it?
Nov 21st, 2016, 01:19 PM
#55
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2016
Visit Olive Mill,
Les Baux-de-Provence,
Evening in Avignon
About 9 AM, we headed in the direction of Le Castelas Olive Mill, near the town of Les Baux, about a twenty-minute drive from Avignon.
Upon arrival, Catherine, who with her husband owns the acreage, greeted us. We walked in the olive grove with her for a while and found it interesting to learn about the process of producing the olive oil which we use in everyday life: olive trees, olive-picking, olive oil processing, etc.
Catherine’s comments and ways of expressing herself were even more interesting given that she and her husband had lived in Arizona for a few years before returning to their home in Provence.
Inside the production mill, we saw some of the sophisticated equipment used in the process, along with a short video. We had tastings of different levels of olive oils, albeit not as palate pleasing as wine tastings, for sure. But a good learning experience.
At the conclusion of our visit, we purchased a pottery olive oil dispenser which we have put to good use since our return home.
Then it was onward to Les Baux de-Provence, described as one of the most beautiful villages in France. However, it seems that this accolade can be given to quite a few villages in the country.
The sight of this massive rock, rising 650 ft. out of the valley floor, set against the backdrop of the Alpilles (small alps) Mountains , crowned with its striking chateau-fortress, provides an impactful introduction to Les Baux
de-Provence.
Traces of human habitation have been found dating as back as far as 6000 BC. However, Les Baux didn’t develop as a town until the Middle Ages. For five hundred tumultuous years, it was ruled by the lords of Baux. In spite of waves of attacks from invaders, it was during this time that Les Baux was in its heyday, having a cultivated court system, complete with minstrels and troubadours for court entertainment.
Les Baux was a powerhouse in the 12th Century. Following the death of the last Baux leader, in 1632 the control went to the French crown. One fact we found interesting was that in 1642, the town was given to the Grimaldi family of Monaco. The title of Les Baux still remains with the Grimaldis, although its administration is entirely French.
During the reign of King Louis XIII in the 1600’s, his paranoia got the better of him, as he feared an uprising against his throne. He ordered the town destroyed. What remains of Les Baux de-Provence is a reconstructed city.
Upon entering the town, we learned that Les Baux is two segments: the castle ruins perched high, with a medieval town below.
So we walked the cobblestone alley directly up to the castle on top. The limestone ruins lie on top of this 650 ft. rock base. Many of the ancient walls remain standing. Witnessing the ruins of the castle, it’s difficult to imagine Les Baux as a former powerhouse in southern France.
Descending to the restored village, we learned that it has more than twenty buildings, including the church, the city hall, the hospital, and the citadel from which there is a beautiful circular view of the surrounding areas. The buildings in Les Baux are classified as historical monuments.
The St. Vincent Church is a notable structure. Though it dates back to the 10th century, there have been reconstructed portions and additions over the years. An interesting feature is its modern stained glass windows. They were designed in 1955 by Max Ingrand, the same artist who created the choir window in the cathedral of Strasbourg, Germany, following the damage from WWII. It was subsidized by the Crown Prince of Monaco who has been bearing the title of Marquis des Baux since 1643.
Climbing the stone steps along the alleys of the lower town, we passed ancient structures now serving as art galleries or museums. Others are cafes, or boutiques and shops, selling everything from beautiful pottery, to French-made tablecloths, to tourist trinkets.
Unfortunately, many items of interest, like gorgeous pottery, were too heavy or fragile to transport home. We found a few items to purchase. Also, some delicious caramels!
Most of our time in Les Baux de-Provence was consumed with sightseeing among the ruins and reconstructed structures, and shopping, leaving no time to eat lunch. But we had those caramels!
However, we ran into another restroom snafu! No restaurants which would serve a café’ and pastry; only meals, so no restroom access. Our only miserable option was the public restroom which had doors that didn’t lock and water everywhere because of some sort of automatic cleaning process…UGH!
We again returned to Avignon, our hub for a few days. We passed the charming village of St. Remy, another town which served as a home for Van Gogh and a subject for some of his painting inspirations. Many wealthy people, including US residents, have vacation homes there, some palatial. However, when were in St. Remy, in the mid-afternoon, the town was devoid of people and activity; the cafes and shops were closed.
Back in Avignon, we made a brief stop at the Grand Hotel and headed out to visit the Calvet Museum, housed in what was described as one of the most sumptuous mansions of the town and one of the highlight attractions in Avignon. The walk there was several blocks uphill from our hotel. On the way, we stopped in a little bistro, one of a few in the area, sharing a croque monsieur, just enough to energize us for the museum visit.
We found the Calvet Museum to be a beautiful old 18th century mansion, as described. The museum was started by Esprit Calvet, a resident of Avignon, in 1810. He left his library, his artistic treasures, and money to set up the museum in the town.
The Calvet Fine Arts Museum contains many impressive works, including paintings and sculptures from the 15th through the 20th centuries. However, none of the explanations are in English, making it more difficult to appreciate. We spent well over an hour in the museum before our need for dessert overwhelmed our need for more art viewing..
After walking a few blocks to return to the Rue de la Republique, we found a bank ATM and Margie found a couple of blouses at Pimkie’s. A most welcome stop was the patio of Le Cid Café for dessert crepes: Margie had a “Myrtille” (3 fruits) and Tom had a Miel Citron (honey); plus café au lait. Tasty and refreshing!
We leisurely made our way up through the town center, stopping in a few shops, and admiring the colorful carousel in the Place d’Horloge. Many people were gathered in the square. Kids, big and small, seemed to be enjoying the carousel.
As we wandered up toward the Palace Square, we could hear the sounds of a trumpet. Getting closer, the upbeat music filled the square. We were delighted to sense that the musician was continuing on with more songs, enticing us to sit on a nearby wall and enjoy the unexpected concert.
Our friends Rob and Yvonne happened by. We chatted a while, and then decided to have dinner in the square. The café “In Et Off” offered a great view of the Palace, enhanced by the outstanding weather. We enjoyed more talk about travel, etc. And, as we savored our meal, we were treated to a beautiful sunset which lit up the Palace complex.
On the walk back to the Grand Hotel, Margie and Rob were walking about 20 feet behind Yvonne and Tom when a motorcycle came roaring from behind. . .onto the sidewalk! The two guys on the bike tried to grab Rob’s two shopping bags, but to no avail, as he hung on to the bags and maintained his balance. Just as quickly, they sped toward Yvonne and Tom. Fortunately, Tom pushed Yvonne aside and both were out of danger.
A family who had been walking ahead of us witnessed the whole event and expressed shock. We were all safe and nothing was stolen, but it was unnerving! WOW, an experience that will stay with us for a long time!
The four of us agreed that “All’s well that ends well.” A reminder to be cautious, even in a small place like Avignon.
Except for this frightening incident, it had been another great day!!
Tomorrow: From Provence to Languedoc
Visit Olive Mill,
Les Baux-de-Provence,
Evening in Avignon
About 9 AM, we headed in the direction of Le Castelas Olive Mill, near the town of Les Baux, about a twenty-minute drive from Avignon.
Upon arrival, Catherine, who with her husband owns the acreage, greeted us. We walked in the olive grove with her for a while and found it interesting to learn about the process of producing the olive oil which we use in everyday life: olive trees, olive-picking, olive oil processing, etc.
Catherine’s comments and ways of expressing herself were even more interesting given that she and her husband had lived in Arizona for a few years before returning to their home in Provence.
Inside the production mill, we saw some of the sophisticated equipment used in the process, along with a short video. We had tastings of different levels of olive oils, albeit not as palate pleasing as wine tastings, for sure. But a good learning experience.
At the conclusion of our visit, we purchased a pottery olive oil dispenser which we have put to good use since our return home.
Then it was onward to Les Baux de-Provence, described as one of the most beautiful villages in France. However, it seems that this accolade can be given to quite a few villages in the country.
The sight of this massive rock, rising 650 ft. out of the valley floor, set against the backdrop of the Alpilles (small alps) Mountains , crowned with its striking chateau-fortress, provides an impactful introduction to Les Baux
de-Provence.
Traces of human habitation have been found dating as back as far as 6000 BC. However, Les Baux didn’t develop as a town until the Middle Ages. For five hundred tumultuous years, it was ruled by the lords of Baux. In spite of waves of attacks from invaders, it was during this time that Les Baux was in its heyday, having a cultivated court system, complete with minstrels and troubadours for court entertainment.
Les Baux was a powerhouse in the 12th Century. Following the death of the last Baux leader, in 1632 the control went to the French crown. One fact we found interesting was that in 1642, the town was given to the Grimaldi family of Monaco. The title of Les Baux still remains with the Grimaldis, although its administration is entirely French.
During the reign of King Louis XIII in the 1600’s, his paranoia got the better of him, as he feared an uprising against his throne. He ordered the town destroyed. What remains of Les Baux de-Provence is a reconstructed city.
Upon entering the town, we learned that Les Baux is two segments: the castle ruins perched high, with a medieval town below.
So we walked the cobblestone alley directly up to the castle on top. The limestone ruins lie on top of this 650 ft. rock base. Many of the ancient walls remain standing. Witnessing the ruins of the castle, it’s difficult to imagine Les Baux as a former powerhouse in southern France.
Descending to the restored village, we learned that it has more than twenty buildings, including the church, the city hall, the hospital, and the citadel from which there is a beautiful circular view of the surrounding areas. The buildings in Les Baux are classified as historical monuments.
The St. Vincent Church is a notable structure. Though it dates back to the 10th century, there have been reconstructed portions and additions over the years. An interesting feature is its modern stained glass windows. They were designed in 1955 by Max Ingrand, the same artist who created the choir window in the cathedral of Strasbourg, Germany, following the damage from WWII. It was subsidized by the Crown Prince of Monaco who has been bearing the title of Marquis des Baux since 1643.
Climbing the stone steps along the alleys of the lower town, we passed ancient structures now serving as art galleries or museums. Others are cafes, or boutiques and shops, selling everything from beautiful pottery, to French-made tablecloths, to tourist trinkets.
Unfortunately, many items of interest, like gorgeous pottery, were too heavy or fragile to transport home. We found a few items to purchase. Also, some delicious caramels!
Most of our time in Les Baux de-Provence was consumed with sightseeing among the ruins and reconstructed structures, and shopping, leaving no time to eat lunch. But we had those caramels!
However, we ran into another restroom snafu! No restaurants which would serve a café’ and pastry; only meals, so no restroom access. Our only miserable option was the public restroom which had doors that didn’t lock and water everywhere because of some sort of automatic cleaning process…UGH!
We again returned to Avignon, our hub for a few days. We passed the charming village of St. Remy, another town which served as a home for Van Gogh and a subject for some of his painting inspirations. Many wealthy people, including US residents, have vacation homes there, some palatial. However, when were in St. Remy, in the mid-afternoon, the town was devoid of people and activity; the cafes and shops were closed.
Back in Avignon, we made a brief stop at the Grand Hotel and headed out to visit the Calvet Museum, housed in what was described as one of the most sumptuous mansions of the town and one of the highlight attractions in Avignon. The walk there was several blocks uphill from our hotel. On the way, we stopped in a little bistro, one of a few in the area, sharing a croque monsieur, just enough to energize us for the museum visit.
We found the Calvet Museum to be a beautiful old 18th century mansion, as described. The museum was started by Esprit Calvet, a resident of Avignon, in 1810. He left his library, his artistic treasures, and money to set up the museum in the town.
The Calvet Fine Arts Museum contains many impressive works, including paintings and sculptures from the 15th through the 20th centuries. However, none of the explanations are in English, making it more difficult to appreciate. We spent well over an hour in the museum before our need for dessert overwhelmed our need for more art viewing..
After walking a few blocks to return to the Rue de la Republique, we found a bank ATM and Margie found a couple of blouses at Pimkie’s. A most welcome stop was the patio of Le Cid Café for dessert crepes: Margie had a “Myrtille” (3 fruits) and Tom had a Miel Citron (honey); plus café au lait. Tasty and refreshing!
We leisurely made our way up through the town center, stopping in a few shops, and admiring the colorful carousel in the Place d’Horloge. Many people were gathered in the square. Kids, big and small, seemed to be enjoying the carousel.
As we wandered up toward the Palace Square, we could hear the sounds of a trumpet. Getting closer, the upbeat music filled the square. We were delighted to sense that the musician was continuing on with more songs, enticing us to sit on a nearby wall and enjoy the unexpected concert.
Our friends Rob and Yvonne happened by. We chatted a while, and then decided to have dinner in the square. The café “In Et Off” offered a great view of the Palace, enhanced by the outstanding weather. We enjoyed more talk about travel, etc. And, as we savored our meal, we were treated to a beautiful sunset which lit up the Palace complex.
On the walk back to the Grand Hotel, Margie and Rob were walking about 20 feet behind Yvonne and Tom when a motorcycle came roaring from behind. . .onto the sidewalk! The two guys on the bike tried to grab Rob’s two shopping bags, but to no avail, as he hung on to the bags and maintained his balance. Just as quickly, they sped toward Yvonne and Tom. Fortunately, Tom pushed Yvonne aside and both were out of danger.
A family who had been walking ahead of us witnessed the whole event and expressed shock. We were all safe and nothing was stolen, but it was unnerving! WOW, an experience that will stay with us for a long time!
The four of us agreed that “All’s well that ends well.” A reminder to be cautious, even in a small place like Avignon.
Except for this frightening incident, it had been another great day!!
Tomorrow: From Provence to Languedoc
Nov 23rd, 2016, 05:25 AM
#60
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coquelicot, glad to receive your comments. Hopefully, that incident will make us a little more cautious wherever we are. . .not just in big cities.
Denisea, we'll look forward to hearing all about Paris. Not quite Paris, but we're heading to NYC for a few days,
Denisea, we'll look forward to hearing all about Paris. Not quite Paris, but we're heading to NYC for a few days,
