First Time in Istanbul - but not the last.
Apr 20th, 2010 | 02:49 PM
#1
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Joined: Feb 2009
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First Time in Istanbul - but not the last.
Took a six night break over Easter in Istanbul - some observations on a memorable trip.
The People - the locals lived up in general to their reputation for friendliness, even if in many occasions there was a potential business transaction looming on the horizon. Window shopping is an impossibility as even the slightest flicker in the direction of the merchandise will bring on immediate "assistance". Be polite, be firm but don't be shy about testing your bargaining skills.
Getting About - we only took a taxi once, and that was from the airport to our hotel (an exciting trip, our driver drove at the speed of a man quarter his age); the fare was reasonable but the cab lacked the luxury of back seat safety belts. Staying in the Sultanahmet area, we bought a supply of jetons (tokens in the form of plastic discs) which gave us frequent and cheap connections to the ferries at Eminonu and Kabatas on the modern trams. Buses were also cheap - and equally full. For those into DIY mobility, a word of warning on the quality of the footpaths; be vigilant - there are endless opportunities to sustain injury. Didn't quite work out the etiquette for crossing the street - most drivers seem to regard it as an opportunity to run you over, except for the taxis who slow down in the hope you might be seeking their services.
Day Trips - we managed three during our stay. Princes Islands takes an hour and a half from Kabatas, go to the biggest one where you can walk, cycle or take a horse drawn carriage around the island (lots of old villas, plenty of restaurants near the ferry while you wait to return). Rumeli Fortress is accessable by bus from Kabatas, no shortage of restaurants there or else work up an appetite on the waterside Bosphorus walk to Bebek. We also made to ferry trip over from Eminonu to Kadakoy on the Anatolian side and walked on the promenade to Moda and back (there's an historic tram that does the trip for the less active). Plenty of dining options in Kadakoy; we tried the much touted Ciya Sofrasi but came away underwhelmed with the traditional fare on offer (maybe it's because neither of us have a Turkish granny).
Food and Drink. Hard to beat the standards on offer like the simply grilled fish and the lamb in its various forms. Prices were generally reasonable but we did fall for the unpriced whole fish which looked wonderful (and wildly expensive when the bill arrived). Lesson: have the fish weighed and priced before saying yes. The cheapest fish option has to be the fish sandwiches sold off the boats at the Galata Bridge. Wine was universally expensive with options generally limited to Turkish wines only. In contrast, Efes beer is available everywhere and about €4 -€.5 for a half litre.
Shopping and Sightseeing. Grand Bazaar and the area between it and the Galata Bridge absolutely teem with humanity, all either buying and selling. The Spice Market is smaller and more food oriented but still a very busy spot. The vast number of outlets does not offer an equal level of vastness in choice however. We spent our time under the threat of a highly inaccurate weather forecast, given by a barman not a meterologist it must be admitted, which promised four days rain so we concentrated on outdoor pursuits. We missed out on some of the indoor attractions as our last full day was a Monday, when many places closed. Topkapi Palace is a busy tourist spot with plenty of queues inside as well as outside; Blue Mosque is a must see. We didn't do the Bosphorus cruise as we satisfied ourselves with walks on both the European and Asian waterfronts.
Good to have ample excuses to revisit this great city; definitely a case of the first visit but not the last visit.
The People - the locals lived up in general to their reputation for friendliness, even if in many occasions there was a potential business transaction looming on the horizon. Window shopping is an impossibility as even the slightest flicker in the direction of the merchandise will bring on immediate "assistance". Be polite, be firm but don't be shy about testing your bargaining skills.
Getting About - we only took a taxi once, and that was from the airport to our hotel (an exciting trip, our driver drove at the speed of a man quarter his age); the fare was reasonable but the cab lacked the luxury of back seat safety belts. Staying in the Sultanahmet area, we bought a supply of jetons (tokens in the form of plastic discs) which gave us frequent and cheap connections to the ferries at Eminonu and Kabatas on the modern trams. Buses were also cheap - and equally full. For those into DIY mobility, a word of warning on the quality of the footpaths; be vigilant - there are endless opportunities to sustain injury. Didn't quite work out the etiquette for crossing the street - most drivers seem to regard it as an opportunity to run you over, except for the taxis who slow down in the hope you might be seeking their services.
Day Trips - we managed three during our stay. Princes Islands takes an hour and a half from Kabatas, go to the biggest one where you can walk, cycle or take a horse drawn carriage around the island (lots of old villas, plenty of restaurants near the ferry while you wait to return). Rumeli Fortress is accessable by bus from Kabatas, no shortage of restaurants there or else work up an appetite on the waterside Bosphorus walk to Bebek. We also made to ferry trip over from Eminonu to Kadakoy on the Anatolian side and walked on the promenade to Moda and back (there's an historic tram that does the trip for the less active). Plenty of dining options in Kadakoy; we tried the much touted Ciya Sofrasi but came away underwhelmed with the traditional fare on offer (maybe it's because neither of us have a Turkish granny).
Food and Drink. Hard to beat the standards on offer like the simply grilled fish and the lamb in its various forms. Prices were generally reasonable but we did fall for the unpriced whole fish which looked wonderful (and wildly expensive when the bill arrived). Lesson: have the fish weighed and priced before saying yes. The cheapest fish option has to be the fish sandwiches sold off the boats at the Galata Bridge. Wine was universally expensive with options generally limited to Turkish wines only. In contrast, Efes beer is available everywhere and about €4 -€.5 for a half litre.
Shopping and Sightseeing. Grand Bazaar and the area between it and the Galata Bridge absolutely teem with humanity, all either buying and selling. The Spice Market is smaller and more food oriented but still a very busy spot. The vast number of outlets does not offer an equal level of vastness in choice however. We spent our time under the threat of a highly inaccurate weather forecast, given by a barman not a meterologist it must be admitted, which promised four days rain so we concentrated on outdoor pursuits. We missed out on some of the indoor attractions as our last full day was a Monday, when many places closed. Topkapi Palace is a busy tourist spot with plenty of queues inside as well as outside; Blue Mosque is a must see. We didn't do the Bosphorus cruise as we satisfied ourselves with walks on both the European and Asian waterfronts.
Good to have ample excuses to revisit this great city; definitely a case of the first visit but not the last visit.
Apr 20th, 2010 | 06:15 PM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,943
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I don't recommend going to Buyukada for a day trip. The island is fine if you stay at the Splendid Palas Hotel for a day or two, but I think it is a waste of time to make the trip just to take a horse/carriage ride around to look at all the debris and trash in the shrubbery. (The trash comes from picnickers who throw their refuse from the carriages.)
Thin, one of the gold ladies of the Splendid Palas
Thin, one of the gold ladies of the Splendid Palas
Apr 23rd, 2010 | 02:24 PM
#7
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Weadles: Stayed at Hotel Erguvan, a mid range option that we could recommend. Central location, helpful staff, clean and a nice rooftop terrace with a view of the Sea of Marmara. Breakfast okay in a Turkish kind of way, served until 10.30.
Rate for a double room, just over €150, say under €200 per night.
Close to the Blue Mosque but not in the direct line of the amplified morning call to prayer.
Had considered the more expensive Yesil Ev, checked it out - lovely conservatory, but you would want to be a fan of solo dining; very quiet - until the day's final call to prayer. At that level of volume, no need for a morning alarm clock.
Rate for a double room, just over €150, say under €200 per night.
Close to the Blue Mosque but not in the direct line of the amplified morning call to prayer.
Had considered the more expensive Yesil Ev, checked it out - lovely conservatory, but you would want to be a fan of solo dining; very quiet - until the day's final call to prayer. At that level of volume, no need for a morning alarm clock.
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Apr 25th, 2010 | 01:45 AM
#9
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Afterthoughts.
Having gone through my few pages of pre-travel research, some of the things that got done, some that didn't and some unplanned.
Religious sites: Rustem Pasa mosque near the Spice Market is well flagged as a place to visit - yes, go see it. The more famous Church of St Saviour in Chora required more time (taxi appeared the best way to get there)and is placed on our to-do-next-time list.
Restaurants: despite our enthusiasm to seek out where the locals went, we had two of our best meals in places that are frequently mentioned in the guide books. Lunch at Hamdi near the New Mosque: food fine but the real entertainment was the skill at which the (plentiful) staff turned around tables as they dealt with the endless stream of patrons emerging from the elevator. Great view from the restaurant as well. Balikci Sabahattin in the Sultanahmet district proved to be our best evening venue - it's pretty much fish all the way but done well and there was a good buzz to the place (on a Monday night).
We had intended to try one of the many fish restaurants on Nevizade Sokak near Istiklal Caddesi but in the evening time the place was absolutely frantic, with the whole place in almost party mode (let's not get ageist, but some of us like a quiet sit down after a day on our feet......).
Shopping. Merited one line on See Dee's travel notes but one is drawn into the whole buzz of selling in this city. The Nakkas retail outlet was our first port of call as it was near our hotel; they offer carpets, ceramics and jewellery - all supposed to be genuinely sourced from Turkish craftsmen (there were whisperings of government support for the venture). We tried the carpet section first where the salesman had his minions throw down a dizzying number of options on the floor in front of us in search of the perfect shade of blue that we sought. Then the entertainment of Act One of a drama called Best Price.......
Much prodding of a well worn calculator was accompanied with the assurance that being a state employee would limit his enthusiasm for deep discounting. The amount on the screen, partially shielded from the gaze of my financially delicate wife, was an eye-watering €3,600. Perhaps I don't have a face for poker but somehow our man detected a slight and imperceptible hesitation on my part and declared that things required the attention of the head man. The Boss duly arrived and treated us to a futher performance on his equally well worn calculator - a very best price was produced for our inspection, now €2,500 delivered to our door. Act Three involved the good guy/bad guy scenario of my wife waxing lyrical on the quality of the product while her tightwad spouse backed down the stairs towards the exit, promising to give due consideration to their generous offer.
In my defence, I did return later in the week to purchase a piece of interesting jewellery of Byzantine design (I am now knowledgeable on such matters).
The Arasta Bazaar near the Blue Mosque offers a good browsing opportunity but we bought nothing more than a late breakfast there.
Getting an appetite for the cut and thrust of bargaining, we managed a €50 reduction on a small painting, showing scant regard for the risk of starvation of the salesman's children , in a nearby gallery.
Onward to the Spice Market, showing our callous disregard for said children, in search of caviar. Portion control was the order of the day here but a stall largely involved in selling nuts and spices had a small line in caviar, both Russiaan and Iranian (I am also now knowledgeable on these matters too).
€50 seemed a reasonably safe bet on such exotic produce but our friendly saleman was most enthusiastic that I should purchase two tins at this most reasonable price - and was willing to sweeten the deal with a complimentary jar (small) of Turkish aphrodisiac, with promises of "all night" directed towards my dear wife. We settled for just the one, thanks.
Any Other Business. Places we failed to get to: Kiz Kulesi tower (getting there too time consuming), French St (couldn't find it), Istanbul Modern (given that it's the Year of Culture, we have to be filed under Philistines).
Place we heard of and wondered why (afterwards): Hamamzade Ismail Dede Efendi Evi, we thought we were being very under the tourist radar by seeking out this old Ottoman residence near the Blue Mosque; open to the public but hardly a window on life back in the time of its original owner, a composer of dervish music.
Getting close and personal, Turkish style: sorry but neither went for the hamam experience. To avoid completely insulting the Turkish people, I did have a haircut - excellent and cheap.
Quirkiest thing about Istanbul: has to be the full Christmas lights on Istaklal Caddesi complete with Santa Claus - and it was Easter Sunday night.
Having gone through my few pages of pre-travel research, some of the things that got done, some that didn't and some unplanned.
Religious sites: Rustem Pasa mosque near the Spice Market is well flagged as a place to visit - yes, go see it. The more famous Church of St Saviour in Chora required more time (taxi appeared the best way to get there)and is placed on our to-do-next-time list.
Restaurants: despite our enthusiasm to seek out where the locals went, we had two of our best meals in places that are frequently mentioned in the guide books. Lunch at Hamdi near the New Mosque: food fine but the real entertainment was the skill at which the (plentiful) staff turned around tables as they dealt with the endless stream of patrons emerging from the elevator. Great view from the restaurant as well. Balikci Sabahattin in the Sultanahmet district proved to be our best evening venue - it's pretty much fish all the way but done well and there was a good buzz to the place (on a Monday night).
We had intended to try one of the many fish restaurants on Nevizade Sokak near Istiklal Caddesi but in the evening time the place was absolutely frantic, with the whole place in almost party mode (let's not get ageist, but some of us like a quiet sit down after a day on our feet......).
Shopping. Merited one line on See Dee's travel notes but one is drawn into the whole buzz of selling in this city. The Nakkas retail outlet was our first port of call as it was near our hotel; they offer carpets, ceramics and jewellery - all supposed to be genuinely sourced from Turkish craftsmen (there were whisperings of government support for the venture). We tried the carpet section first where the salesman had his minions throw down a dizzying number of options on the floor in front of us in search of the perfect shade of blue that we sought. Then the entertainment of Act One of a drama called Best Price.......
Much prodding of a well worn calculator was accompanied with the assurance that being a state employee would limit his enthusiasm for deep discounting. The amount on the screen, partially shielded from the gaze of my financially delicate wife, was an eye-watering €3,600. Perhaps I don't have a face for poker but somehow our man detected a slight and imperceptible hesitation on my part and declared that things required the attention of the head man. The Boss duly arrived and treated us to a futher performance on his equally well worn calculator - a very best price was produced for our inspection, now €2,500 delivered to our door. Act Three involved the good guy/bad guy scenario of my wife waxing lyrical on the quality of the product while her tightwad spouse backed down the stairs towards the exit, promising to give due consideration to their generous offer.
In my defence, I did return later in the week to purchase a piece of interesting jewellery of Byzantine design (I am now knowledgeable on such matters).
The Arasta Bazaar near the Blue Mosque offers a good browsing opportunity but we bought nothing more than a late breakfast there.
Getting an appetite for the cut and thrust of bargaining, we managed a €50 reduction on a small painting, showing scant regard for the risk of starvation of the salesman's children , in a nearby gallery.
Onward to the Spice Market, showing our callous disregard for said children, in search of caviar. Portion control was the order of the day here but a stall largely involved in selling nuts and spices had a small line in caviar, both Russiaan and Iranian (I am also now knowledgeable on these matters too).
€50 seemed a reasonably safe bet on such exotic produce but our friendly saleman was most enthusiastic that I should purchase two tins at this most reasonable price - and was willing to sweeten the deal with a complimentary jar (small) of Turkish aphrodisiac, with promises of "all night" directed towards my dear wife. We settled for just the one, thanks.
Any Other Business. Places we failed to get to: Kiz Kulesi tower (getting there too time consuming), French St (couldn't find it), Istanbul Modern (given that it's the Year of Culture, we have to be filed under Philistines).
Place we heard of and wondered why (afterwards): Hamamzade Ismail Dede Efendi Evi, we thought we were being very under the tourist radar by seeking out this old Ottoman residence near the Blue Mosque; open to the public but hardly a window on life back in the time of its original owner, a composer of dervish music.
Getting close and personal, Turkish style: sorry but neither went for the hamam experience. To avoid completely insulting the Turkish people, I did have a haircut - excellent and cheap.
Quirkiest thing about Istanbul: has to be the full Christmas lights on Istaklal Caddesi complete with Santa Claus - and it was Easter Sunday night.
Apr 25th, 2010 | 02:57 AM
#10
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 4
Lovely report and afterthought.
One remark for future consumption:
Nevizade street is and expected to be crowded, noisy and lively. That is why some people go there. Whether you go to Boncuk or any other restaurant, the food is almost all alike and not special at all, but usually good value for the price.
the same can be said about the French Street and Asmalimescit.
If you want better ambience, better quality meyhane menu, and quiet setting, you should pick bosphorus side restaurants at Arnavutkoy, Bebek, Yenikoy, Cengelkoy or Kirecburnu, many of which will be more expensive or go all the way to Rumelikavagi to our favourite cheaper fish restaurant, "Guzel Yer", or the closer one at Kandilli, on the Asian side, "Sunanin Yeri".
The only, not cheap but excellent fish restaurant that we frequent as locals, in the city, is "Doga Balik" in Cihangir, on the terrace of the Villa Zurich hotel.
My wife and i agree that hamdi has good starters, reasonable mains with just the right amount of spices, excellent service and terrific view, and is reasonably priced. We go there ot to the whole in the wall Filibe Koftecisi when we do shopping for stuff at the exotic Tahtakale and Mahmutpasa streets.
One remark for future consumption:
Nevizade street is and expected to be crowded, noisy and lively. That is why some people go there. Whether you go to Boncuk or any other restaurant, the food is almost all alike and not special at all, but usually good value for the price.
the same can be said about the French Street and Asmalimescit.
If you want better ambience, better quality meyhane menu, and quiet setting, you should pick bosphorus side restaurants at Arnavutkoy, Bebek, Yenikoy, Cengelkoy or Kirecburnu, many of which will be more expensive or go all the way to Rumelikavagi to our favourite cheaper fish restaurant, "Guzel Yer", or the closer one at Kandilli, on the Asian side, "Sunanin Yeri".
The only, not cheap but excellent fish restaurant that we frequent as locals, in the city, is "Doga Balik" in Cihangir, on the terrace of the Villa Zurich hotel.
My wife and i agree that hamdi has good starters, reasonable mains with just the right amount of spices, excellent service and terrific view, and is reasonably priced. We go there ot to the whole in the wall Filibe Koftecisi when we do shopping for stuff at the exotic Tahtakale and Mahmutpasa streets.
May 2nd, 2010 | 10:55 AM
#12
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,178
Likes: 7
My daughter and I spent an interesting and fun 5 days in Istanbul in March. I will return for a long weekend with my husband in a few weeks.
My favorite site was the Palace Cistern. So cool, peaceful, and amazing. You can find 15 or 20 minutes to visit this as it is near all the other Sultanahmet sites.
We loved shopping in Arasta Bazaar.
SeeDee - we also could not find French Street!!
gruezi
My favorite site was the Palace Cistern. So cool, peaceful, and amazing. You can find 15 or 20 minutes to visit this as it is near all the other Sultanahmet sites.
We loved shopping in Arasta Bazaar.
SeeDee - we also could not find French Street!!
gruezi
