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England/Scotland 12 days

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Old Mar 9th, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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England/Scotland 12 days

i am sure that there are already lots of info on this topic but i can't find them with the new format.
We are flying in/out of London for 12 days in late August and trying to decide where to go. we love history, the outdoors, food and gardens. any itinerary suggestions that would also include Scotland and an island in the hebrides? thank you.
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Old Mar 9th, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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What kind of problem do you have? If you go to the "view by tag" box and choose United Kingdom, the next page you'll get is:
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/united-kingdom/

in the middle section of the screen, you'll see the 30 most recent threads tagged UK. If you want to go back further, just click on the <i>View recent activity for topics tagged United Kingdom by day </i> link and you can go back day by day.
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Old Mar 10th, 2009 | 05:20 AM
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thank you. i have just gotten back to this site after quite a while and was just using search the forum. i was not familiar with the "view by tag" and did not know what it meant. thanks again.
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Old Mar 11th, 2009 | 05:55 AM
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i did not see an itinerary that sounds like what we want to do. we want to head towards Bath from London, then maybe a town in the lake district, an island in the Hebrides,Edinburgh (trying to miss the fringe festival) and then back down towards Hadrians wall ending in London for a couple of days. Is this way too much for 12 days? and what town in the Lake district would you recommend? and what island?
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Old Mar 11th, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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Way too much. Really. Either do the Scottish stuff or the English. Don't do both.

How would this work for you?
Edinburgh
Two days in Edinburgh-If I were you I would start at the Castle. It is at the top of the High Street, also known as the Royal Mile. Edinburgh’s interesting bits, excluding the residential suburbs, are in two parts:- the Old Town and the New Town. See the castle and walk down the mile. Wander into the closes and stairs on either side, See Mary King’s Close and St Giles. Spit in Heart of Midlothian. Visit the Parliament and Parliament House. See Lady Stair’s Close and the Childhood Museum and John Knox’s House. Take a ghost walk, and eventually get to Holyrood Palace and Park. If you have the energy, walk up Arthur’s Seat for the excellent views. That is a full day, no problem. Take a picnic for lunch; get a cab back to your hotel and go out for supper at the Marque in Causewayside. See a show if one takes your fancy.

On the 2nd day, take an open top bus tour to get an over view of the rest of the City, then pick a few things to do. DEFINITELY do the National Museum of Scotland. For good idiosyncratic shopping, go to the Grassmarket and walk from there up Victoria Street (or vice versa). For ordinary and tourist shopping do Princes Street, and for toney shopping do George Street. Valvona and Crolla in Leith Walk is the best Italian deli in the world and Vittorio’s café just down the road is a great Scottish Italian neighbourhood caff. Other good places to eat include Bann’s- veggy, Viva Mexico- guess, The Witchery, the Atrium- dear, The Siam Erewan-Thai, and the Anarkale- Indian.


Speyside

Next day drive up through Perth to Blairgowrie, then over to Cockbridge. Corgarff Castle is worth a stop; then drive over the Lecht to Tomintoul, which claims to be Scotland’s highest village. There is a Whisky Shop here which is worth waiting for, for your whisky purchases. Retrace your steps a few hundred yards to where the road comes down from the Lecht and go on to Dufftown. This is the start of the whisky trail. Pick a distillery, any distillery…. Actually they do not all do tours, but lots do. Glenfiddich is pretty naff as malt whiskies go, but it does have nifty tour. Your route should then be Craigellachie, Aberlour, Grantown along the mighty Spey. Then go up to Nethy Bridge and visit the Osprey Centre at Loch Garten. The road then goes past Rothiemurchus, which is worth stopping at, and hits the main north road at Aviemore, which is NOT my favourite town in the Highlands. It does have a stunning setting and a lot of shops. Then hightail it past Inverness, pausing only to count the bridges over the river (see Brahan Seer, for reference), and find somewhere to lay your weary head. The Connon Hotel’s not bad and quite cheap.

Northern Highlands

This is exciting! Your compatriots don’t usually hang about long enough to do these bits. Still I’ve been thinking about islands and I want to send you to a southish one, so I will reverse the next bit, from what I originally said.

From Inverness take a turn through the Black Isle and visit Rosemarkie for its sculpted pictish stones, and Cromarty and the courthouse, then come north to Tain. We have a silversmith there who doe lovely work in modern style based on ancient designs. Highly recommended. Come north to Dornoch with its cathedral, Golspie and Ben Braggie and see the “Mannie” and then Dunrobin Castle. Go to Helmsdale and north through Kildonan, and see if you can get all the way without weeping (reference the Highland Clearances. I’ve missed outThurso and Wick, which are old very parochial towns with a strong Norse influence. It’s not much of a detour if you want to do them, too. From Melvich, at the top of the Kildonan road, come west to Tongue. You might want to stop about here.

Next day pass Hope and Durness, and if you feel adventurous take the 11 mile detour up to Cape Wrath, Scotland’s most north west point. Come down through Kinlochbervie and Scourie, which is stunning; then down through Assynt, with its interesting local history, to just north of Ullapool. I suggest you try to stay at the Summer Isles Hotel at Achiltibuie. Lots of lovely mountains and sea and island views.

West Coast

Next day meander down the beautiful west coast of Scotland, from Ullapool to Dundonnell to Poolewe ( side trip to Mellon Udrigle) to Gairloch; down through Torridon and right round the Applecross peninsula; over the Bealach nam Bo to Lochcarron. Come round Lochcarron and pitch your tent at Plockton or Kyle of Lochalsh for the overnighter. You are looking over the Sound of Skye to Skye and the views are stunning. That route is mainly scenery.

Just south of Kyle is Eilean Donan castle, then you come through Kintail, with the Five Sisiters above you, to Cluanie then on to Fort William. From Fort William come on south to Ballachulish and take a side trip into Glen Coe, the notorious and beautiful Glen of Weeping (Jacobite history refers). Come back to the main road south and drive on into Oban. Pause for shopping. The aim here is to get t Tarbert for bedtime, because you should be on the early ferry out of Kennacraig next morning. It’s another 45 miles- maybe an hour without stopping and you should stop for Kilmartin Glen’s antiquities including Dunadd, and the Crinan Canal. Stay in Tarbert or the West Loch Hotel.

Islands

Catch the early ferry to Islay. Distilleries (8 plus the one on Jura) beaches, wildlife (including midges) lovely villages, Gaelic culture. Nice hotels and B &Bs, the headquarters of the Lords of the Isles. Norse place names from Viking times, great walks and great pubs. The Lochside in Bowmore, claims over 300 whiskies in stock. The idea is to take it easy these 2 days. Take the little ferry to Jura and maybe even the landrover trip to the north of the island to see the Corrievreckan whirlpool (book at the Jura Hotel). Go and visit the house where George Orwell wrote 1984 (if you’re hardy). And if you don’t come back in love with the place, I’ll be a dutchman.

Central Highlands

This is just to give you a taste of the middle on your way back to Glasgow. Catching the ferry out at 9 .25am will get you back on the mainland about 11.30am. Drive up to Lochgilphead then round to Inverary, which is worth a stop for the Jail and the planned village and even the castle.

Then you go up Loch Awe to Dalmally and east to Tyndrum, Crianlarich and at Liz, you turn off to Killin. Take the road along the north side of Loch Tay and stop for lunch in the Kenmore Hotel, where Robbie Burns scratched his name in the glass of a window. In the afternoon drive on west through Aberfeldy to Dunkeld and stop in the Square, which is owned by the National Trust. Go and see the cathedral. Then get back in the car and hightail it to Glasgow. Since you pass Stirling you might want to stay there and see the castle and Bannockburn in the morning. You are about 40 minutes drive from Glagow.

Glasgow

That leaves you with 1 day for Glasgow.
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Old Mar 11th, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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thank you, that sounds wonderful and really worth making the change. i do want a couple of days in London and a quick stop in ¥ork to see the national railway museum but i can drop the rest. why when you schedule a trip does 13 days seem like a long time until you consider what you want to do. work is such a bother...
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Old Mar 11th, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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You could fly onto to Edinburgh immediately, then end up in London. I remember our second trip to Europe we flew into Edinburgh via London for the same price as flying to London only. (But I don't know if that's still true.)

Another alternative is taking the bus from London Heathrow to Bath and starting your trip there.

I'd skip the Hebrides. Too much out of the way for so short a trip. And I'd replace both the Lake District and Hadrian's Wall by a couple days in York. A car is best for the Lakes and Hadrian's Wall. Public transportation takes more time. There are Roman ruins in York and Bath as well as London.
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Old Mar 11th, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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Your first list would take 12 weeks not 12 days -- only a <i>slight</i> exaggeration . . . .

12 days is not a very long time to cover 2 countries. Do you mean 12 days "on the ground"? - or 12 days total including fights in/out?

If it is 12 days total - then London, York, Edinburgh and the Outer Hebrides in what would basically be 9.5 days is not close to doable - let alone all the other great places in between.

You could fly into Edinburgh - In August you'll likely have a 3 night minimum in Edinburgh. Then tour around Scotland for 5 or 6 days. Then fly or take the train to London for the last 2 nights and fly home. That is 12 days. but not long enough any one place.
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Old Mar 16th, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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Thank you for your help. The Scottish itinerary that Sheila made sounds great (DH would esp. enjoy the distillery part) but most is really too far north for us. The musts are London, Edinburgh and York with hopefully a trainride along Hadrians wall. The first day we get into London around 11am. still trying to decide whether to head out immediately or spend the night in London and leave in the am. any suggestions?
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Old Mar 16th, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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"<i>hopefully a trainride along Hadrians wall.</i>"

Nope - no train runs along the Wall. Trains go to Newcastle on the east coast of England and to Carlisle on the west side - and the Wall basically is in between the two. You would need to rent a car from one or the other city to see the Wall. (There is a local bus that runs along the Wall, but on a 1 day stop over in Newcastle or Carlisle that isn't very practical)
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Old Mar 16th, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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Oh sheesh - yes you can take a train (Duh! - sorry) - temporary brain fade. But as a one day enroute from York to Edinburgh it would be an awfully full day. You'd really want to stay over one night.
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Old Mar 16th, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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i have info about a train "the tyne valley line" in the national rail enquiries it looks like it would take about an hour and a half. any suggestions about which place to stay the night?
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