Edinburgh/Scotland 4 days
May 14th, 2005 | 01:27 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
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Edinburgh/Scotland 4 days
Hi
I'm inquring on behalf of some friends who are taking their first trip to England and Scotland. They will be spending a few days in London at the Millenium Baileys and then taking a train to Edinburgh and will have about 4 days. They have some distant relatives in Stirling that they may want to visit, that part isn't set yet.
In Edinburgh they want to see the usual tourist historical sites. Do you recommend any guided tours? In Edinburgh they will be staying at the Glasshouse. Yes, I've suggested a Search and the Destinations section here.
If they were to spend a day or two outside of Edinburgh,and perhaps go to Stirling, would a car be recommended/necessary? Do you have suggestios for a recommended route or sightseeing besides visiting the family?
If not Stirling, they might be interested in a visit to Glasgow, or?
When they end the time in Scotland, they will return by train to London and stay overnight on their last night at a Gatwick hotel,for an early flight out the next morning.
This is the first trip out of the USA for one of my friends, I haven't been to Scotland myself so I am of no help personally. Thanks.
I'm inquring on behalf of some friends who are taking their first trip to England and Scotland. They will be spending a few days in London at the Millenium Baileys and then taking a train to Edinburgh and will have about 4 days. They have some distant relatives in Stirling that they may want to visit, that part isn't set yet.
In Edinburgh they want to see the usual tourist historical sites. Do you recommend any guided tours? In Edinburgh they will be staying at the Glasshouse. Yes, I've suggested a Search and the Destinations section here.
If they were to spend a day or two outside of Edinburgh,and perhaps go to Stirling, would a car be recommended/necessary? Do you have suggestios for a recommended route or sightseeing besides visiting the family?
If not Stirling, they might be interested in a visit to Glasgow, or?
When they end the time in Scotland, they will return by train to London and stay overnight on their last night at a Gatwick hotel,for an early flight out the next morning.
This is the first trip out of the USA for one of my friends, I haven't been to Scotland myself so I am of no help personally. Thanks.
May 14th, 2005 | 01:52 PM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,637
Likes: 0
In Edinburgh they'd like to see the most famous sights, the 'top ten' or must-see kinds of places that will appear in fodors or other guide books.
But a suggestion on how to organize a couple of dayd, or perhaps a guided tour,would be welcome.
Outside of Edinburgh, they'd like a little change from the cities, perhaps a driving route for a day or two,with or without Stirling. thanks
But a suggestion on how to organize a couple of dayd, or perhaps a guided tour,would be welcome.
Outside of Edinburgh, they'd like a little change from the cities, perhaps a driving route for a day or two,with or without Stirling. thanks
May 14th, 2005 | 02:11 PM
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,159
Likes: 0
Here's one option. Leave Edinburgh, driving north. Cross the Forth.
On the other side of the river, Dunfermilne is on your left. Robert the Bruce, the hero king who won Bannockburn is buried here in Dunfermilne Abbey (although his heart is buried at Melrose in the Borders); go back onto the main road and you will shortly come to Loch Leven, where Mary Queen of Scots was locked up in the castle on the island (v. romantic..the story of the escape- she then fled to her cousin in England for succour. She locked her up for 20 years then beheaded her.) You can take boat trips from Kinross.
Vane Farm Bird Reserve is on the other side of the Loch.
Then go due east to the coast. There are lots of other nice places, like Ceres, Falkland Palace, the East Neuk villages, Pittenweem, St Monans and Leven - a stretch of picture-postcard little fishing villages, with Anstruther, Crail, etc, leading toward St Andrews.
In Anstruther visit the fishing museum, then have the best fish in the world for your lunch. After that drive along the coast to Largo, home of the 'original' Robinson Crusoe. When Daniel Defoe wrote about Robinson Crusoe, he was writing about a real person. His name was Alexander Selkirk and he came from Largo in Fife. Defoe was an English spy up in Scotland in the 1700's and nicked the story.
In St Andrews, take a trip underneath the castle. It can be a bit of a squeeze so if you are claustrophobic then probably best to pass on this one. John Knox used to live in this castle - also get chance to see the bottle dungeon. St. Andrews with its ancient university, its cathedral (we do have a lot of them, don't we?) and the home of golf, the Royal and Ancient, is seriously worth a visit. It has one of the best beaches in the world- the West Sands, which is where they filmed the opening sequence of Chariots of Fire- shame about the weather- and one of the best ice cream shops in the world (Jannetta's) apart from being a lovely little town.
Restaurants in the area which are very good would include the Ostler's Close in Cupar, the Cellar in Anstruther, the Cellar in St Monan's and the Peat Inn at Peat Inn.
When you’re finished with Fife, cross the river Tay and turn left to Perth, and on to Dunkeld and Pitlochry.
Most of Perth's interest lies in its history- ancient capital of Scotland- and in its place in Scottish literature. Just north of Perth, 2 miles or so, is Scone Palace, worth a visit itself, which was the site where the kings and queens of Scotland were crowned, seated on the Stone of Destiny.
The town's 12th century Church, St John's is worth a visit. It contains the remains of an Earl of Perth who is supposed to have told the town's baillies "If you give me six feet, I'll give you twa Inches"- a reference to the two parks on either side of the Old town, the North and South Inches (from the Gaelic Innis meaning meadow). In addition it is where John Knox preached the destruction of the monasteries at the start of the Scottish reformation
Sir Walter Scott wrote a novel called "the Fair Maid of Perth" and her house and that of Hal o' the Wynd, can both be visited. This will tell you all about Clan Chattan and Clan Kay and the battle they fought (staged?) on the North Inch. Next to Hal o' the Wynd's house is the City Mills which has a restored oatmeal and some nice craft shops. The City Mills Hotel, which I think is now called the Stakis, is another converted Mill, done so the lade can be seen flowing underneath.
If you walk along the Tay, you can see where the houses in the Watergate had their gardens which led down to the river, where Kate Barlass held off the soldiers come to capture and kill the king.
The town has really good shopping centered around the High Street and Old High Street. On the north edge of the town is the Caithness Glass factory where you can see the glass being made and, of course, buy from the factory shop. Caithness Glass is presently in receivership- like Chapter 11- but I believe the shop is still open
There are a lot of nice walks along the river and through the North Inch, through the Norie Millar gardens on the north side of the river, Branklyn gardens on the North side of the river, Kinnoull hill with its folly, and Buckie Braes and Callerfountain.
Places to eat- Let's Eat is without doubt the best place in town. Patrick’s is a bistro behind the Sherriff Court which is on Tay Street), which is quite good, and Paco's and the Filling Station, are all cheap and cheerful.
The Willows tea room in St John's Square is very good for coffee/ tea and cakes and things.
Dunkeld is a very classy town on the banks of the Tay. The square is owned by the National Trust and there are a couple of good places to eat and shop.
The Cathedral is special, but so is the square with its National Trust houses. Some very good antique shops (never pay what they are asking)
On the west side of the A9 at Birnam you can walk up Birnam Hill from behind the station (it's signposted, or "waymarked" as they say in the fancy mags) You know the stuff about "When Birnam wood shall come to Dunsinane" from Macbeth? Well, that's where's it's from.
There's a pub in the village (the name of which I can't remember but it's the second one on the street on the right immediately over the bridge- you can't miss it), which was owned by Dougie Mclean one of Scotland's greatest contemporary singer songwriters. It can be a fine place to spend an evening.
Stay here on night one.
Day 2.
Go north to Blair Atholl which is a planned village and is very pretty in a slightly twee Victorian style, and it houses Blair Castle, home of the Dukes of Atholl and the Atholl Highlanders. V impressive in the grand style.
On the way you pass Killiecrankie where you can see the famous soldier's leap. If you don't know the story, learn the song. Another famous battle
Another easy trip out from there is to take a wee detour west to Aberfeldy and Loch Tay. You will pass Breadalbane Castle, former home of the Marquis of Breadalbane, and now a golf course! and come to the lovely 18th century planned village of Kenmore. Further west you will come to the Crannog centre- well worth a visit; then Kenmore itself. Kenmore is a beautiful planned 18th Century village, with a very old hotel- reputed to be the oldest in Scotland. The food is good without being excellent. Burns is supposed to have stayed here, and carved his name in the glass on a window. There's a super craft shop in a converted Church between the beach at the bottom of the loch and the Hotel, which does soup and sandwiches for a quick and nutritious lunch.
From the village there are a number of nice walks. You can go through the arch into Taymouth Castle estate- golf course now- and wander along the riverside. You can go over the river and turn left into what was the old policies and walk along the loch side and through the old gardens.
It's quite wild when you get past the time share stuff; and you can climb Drummond Hill above the north side of the loch. There are a range of waymarked paths.
And if you're up to the walk, drive along the north side of the loch to Ben Lawers and drive up to the National Trust visitor centre. Time it right and then walk up to the top. Don't do this if it's raining unless you're nuts!
I did the next bit for a girl who was staying in the area a week, so you may need to pick the wheat from the chaff.
Starting at Dunkeld you will find nearby the Loch of the Lowes which is a wildlife reserve owned by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. It's one of the osprey sites and they should be there, so you should visit.
Further north a couple of miles, at Inver is the Hermitage, also owned by the National Trust, a lovely place to walk in the trees along by the river Braan. There's also a nice walk up the hill above Dunkeld, which I have directions for in a mag.
Next Aberfeldy. the obvious place is the Birks. Do you know your Burns?
Nice walks along the riverside. There's a pub in Aberfeldy called something like the Black Watch. It's just at the junction of the Weem Road and the main road through the town. The Weem Hotel used to be great and it still has some character and is worth a visit, but we had a meal there a couple of years ago and it was a disaster.
Nearby you have Castle Menzies, which is open to the public and is worth a visit. Lastly on this bit is the Ailean Craggan, which has a horrible modern appearance but excellent food, good beer and good crack and company.
Killin is a strange mixture of awful tourist tat and outdoor shops. There's a lovely view at the Falls of Dochart at the top end of the town.
On the south side of Loch Tay you will find the Ardeonaig Hotel- lovely from the outside and reputed to have very good food. Stayed tehre last summer. It was top.
Glen Lyon. Driving west from Weem you come to Fortingall (if you don't take the turn off for Kenmore) It's a pretty but dull village with a row of thatched cottages. It's famous for 2 things- in the churchyard is a 300 year old Yew tree which is meant to be the oldest tree in Britain; and legend has it that Pontius Pilate was born here. Yes, really! His Da' was meant to have been a legionnaire here when he was born. I haven't been in the hotel for years but it has character and used to do great afternoon teas.
Just past Fortingall you get into the Glen proper. Some people think it's one of the most beautiful in Scotland. I certainly think it's very special. There are lots of lovely walks. There are Munros (mountains over 3000 feet high) on both sides of the Glen. At the top you come first to the hamlet of Brig of Balgie. The Post Office has a tea room and the whole affair is run by my friend Kate Conway. If you go down to the side of the river here you can walk up as far as Meggernie and then come back to the road and home again. Or drive on up to the dam.
The drive from Brig of Balgie over the hill past Ben Lawers to Loch Tay side is beautiful. Ben Lawers is owned by the National Trust and there is a very good visitor centre which is worth a visit. They own the mountain for the alpine flora. It's a deceptively easy looking mountain.
Another good day out would be... drive straight up the A9, passing Killiecrankie and the soldier's leap; House of Bruar (the Harrods of the north), Dalwhinnie (distillery); Kingussie (Ruthven Barracks) Aviemore (architectural nightmare, but good for Cairngorm- you can take the funicular to the top if you like) Inverness (don't stop- it's not worth it! Lunch on Loch Ness side; stop at castle Urquart; down the Great Glen to Spean Bridge (Commando Monument) then Fort William (armpit of the west) passing Aonach Mor and Ben Nevis; 12 miles south along Loch Linnhe to Ballachulish, over the Bridge and up to Glen Coe- through the Glen of Weeping (National Trust)to Tyndrum(Green Welly shop because you just HAVE to) past Crianlarich and along Glen Dochart to Lix- down to Killin at the other end of Loch Tay- along the south side of the Loch, stopping for dinner at the Ardeonaig and then 12 miles to home.
You realise that three days worth of options I've put in there.
Stay about Killin, I think.
Day 3. Again, drive to Crianlarich, Tyndrum, and south-west to Dalmally. Along the top of Loch Awe and down into Oban
Oban is worth an hour to look round and you could do the distillery tour then CONCENTRATE on Kilmartin Glen. If you're at the right time of year, the gardens at Arduaine are stunning.
Go south through Kilmartin, stopping only to see…the stone circles, standing stones, chambered cairns and lots of other evidence of our prehistoric ancestors. Go to Dunadd, which is where we are supposed to have crowned the Kings of the Picts and climb the hill and see if your feet fit the grooves in the stones. The cross the moor (a National Nature Reserve) to Crinan. There is a pretty little canal which goes the 8 miles from Crinan to Ardrishaig.
Stop at the Crinan Hotel and have afternoon tea overlooking the Atlantic.
A further option for you would be to take a quick side trip across the Atlantic to Seil Island. The village of Easdale at the far end is still one of the prettiest places. Left over from the slate mining of the 18th and 19th century, it’s rows of pretty white painted cottages looking over to the island of Easdale. Boat trips round the Corrievreckan whirlpool. There’s a hotel with rooms at the Bridge, called the Tigh an Truish (the House of the trousers).
At the bottom of Kilmartin Glen you will find Lochgilphead and Ardrishaig- stop for the Vital Spark,- and on south to Tarbert. This is a lovely little fishing village with a picturesque harbour. The west coast of Scotland has huge long se inlets, which we call sea lochs. They are like mini-fjords. So to get from anywhere to anywhere takes ages. It’s why, until the war, the economy of the west coast was based on the “Puffers”, little boats which went from port to port taking everything that was necessary to keep places going. The most famous was the Vital Spark, the heroine of “Para Handy’s Tales” by Neil Gunn- read, mark and inwardly digest, before arrival. She’s moored at Ardrishaig, (or sometimes Crinan) which I’m taking you past, so have a look.
Go up Loch Fyne, and you will find Inverary, a glorious planned village, built by the Campbell Duke of Argyll (boo, hiss). Visit the castle and the jail (read R.L. Stevenson’s “Kidnapped” before you come). There’s also a terrific restaurant called the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar just outside the village. Loch Fyne is where “Finnan haddies” come from- essentially smoked haddock. You will see little roadside signs inviting you to purchase and should try to do something about this
Then cross the Rest and Be Thankful and head round the south of Loch Lomond and back up to Stirling.
let me stress I am NOT suggesting anyone do all of this in 3 dys, but your friends could cherry pick bits
On the other side of the river, Dunfermilne is on your left. Robert the Bruce, the hero king who won Bannockburn is buried here in Dunfermilne Abbey (although his heart is buried at Melrose in the Borders); go back onto the main road and you will shortly come to Loch Leven, where Mary Queen of Scots was locked up in the castle on the island (v. romantic..the story of the escape- she then fled to her cousin in England for succour. She locked her up for 20 years then beheaded her.) You can take boat trips from Kinross.
Vane Farm Bird Reserve is on the other side of the Loch.
Then go due east to the coast. There are lots of other nice places, like Ceres, Falkland Palace, the East Neuk villages, Pittenweem, St Monans and Leven - a stretch of picture-postcard little fishing villages, with Anstruther, Crail, etc, leading toward St Andrews.
In Anstruther visit the fishing museum, then have the best fish in the world for your lunch. After that drive along the coast to Largo, home of the 'original' Robinson Crusoe. When Daniel Defoe wrote about Robinson Crusoe, he was writing about a real person. His name was Alexander Selkirk and he came from Largo in Fife. Defoe was an English spy up in Scotland in the 1700's and nicked the story.
In St Andrews, take a trip underneath the castle. It can be a bit of a squeeze so if you are claustrophobic then probably best to pass on this one. John Knox used to live in this castle - also get chance to see the bottle dungeon. St. Andrews with its ancient university, its cathedral (we do have a lot of them, don't we?) and the home of golf, the Royal and Ancient, is seriously worth a visit. It has one of the best beaches in the world- the West Sands, which is where they filmed the opening sequence of Chariots of Fire- shame about the weather- and one of the best ice cream shops in the world (Jannetta's) apart from being a lovely little town.
Restaurants in the area which are very good would include the Ostler's Close in Cupar, the Cellar in Anstruther, the Cellar in St Monan's and the Peat Inn at Peat Inn.
When you’re finished with Fife, cross the river Tay and turn left to Perth, and on to Dunkeld and Pitlochry.
Most of Perth's interest lies in its history- ancient capital of Scotland- and in its place in Scottish literature. Just north of Perth, 2 miles or so, is Scone Palace, worth a visit itself, which was the site where the kings and queens of Scotland were crowned, seated on the Stone of Destiny.
The town's 12th century Church, St John's is worth a visit. It contains the remains of an Earl of Perth who is supposed to have told the town's baillies "If you give me six feet, I'll give you twa Inches"- a reference to the two parks on either side of the Old town, the North and South Inches (from the Gaelic Innis meaning meadow). In addition it is where John Knox preached the destruction of the monasteries at the start of the Scottish reformation
Sir Walter Scott wrote a novel called "the Fair Maid of Perth" and her house and that of Hal o' the Wynd, can both be visited. This will tell you all about Clan Chattan and Clan Kay and the battle they fought (staged?) on the North Inch. Next to Hal o' the Wynd's house is the City Mills which has a restored oatmeal and some nice craft shops. The City Mills Hotel, which I think is now called the Stakis, is another converted Mill, done so the lade can be seen flowing underneath.
If you walk along the Tay, you can see where the houses in the Watergate had their gardens which led down to the river, where Kate Barlass held off the soldiers come to capture and kill the king.
The town has really good shopping centered around the High Street and Old High Street. On the north edge of the town is the Caithness Glass factory where you can see the glass being made and, of course, buy from the factory shop. Caithness Glass is presently in receivership- like Chapter 11- but I believe the shop is still open
There are a lot of nice walks along the river and through the North Inch, through the Norie Millar gardens on the north side of the river, Branklyn gardens on the North side of the river, Kinnoull hill with its folly, and Buckie Braes and Callerfountain.
Places to eat- Let's Eat is without doubt the best place in town. Patrick’s is a bistro behind the Sherriff Court which is on Tay Street), which is quite good, and Paco's and the Filling Station, are all cheap and cheerful.
The Willows tea room in St John's Square is very good for coffee/ tea and cakes and things.
Dunkeld is a very classy town on the banks of the Tay. The square is owned by the National Trust and there are a couple of good places to eat and shop.
The Cathedral is special, but so is the square with its National Trust houses. Some very good antique shops (never pay what they are asking)
On the west side of the A9 at Birnam you can walk up Birnam Hill from behind the station (it's signposted, or "waymarked" as they say in the fancy mags) You know the stuff about "When Birnam wood shall come to Dunsinane" from Macbeth? Well, that's where's it's from.
There's a pub in the village (the name of which I can't remember but it's the second one on the street on the right immediately over the bridge- you can't miss it), which was owned by Dougie Mclean one of Scotland's greatest contemporary singer songwriters. It can be a fine place to spend an evening.
Stay here on night one.
Day 2.
Go north to Blair Atholl which is a planned village and is very pretty in a slightly twee Victorian style, and it houses Blair Castle, home of the Dukes of Atholl and the Atholl Highlanders. V impressive in the grand style.
On the way you pass Killiecrankie where you can see the famous soldier's leap. If you don't know the story, learn the song. Another famous battle
Another easy trip out from there is to take a wee detour west to Aberfeldy and Loch Tay. You will pass Breadalbane Castle, former home of the Marquis of Breadalbane, and now a golf course! and come to the lovely 18th century planned village of Kenmore. Further west you will come to the Crannog centre- well worth a visit; then Kenmore itself. Kenmore is a beautiful planned 18th Century village, with a very old hotel- reputed to be the oldest in Scotland. The food is good without being excellent. Burns is supposed to have stayed here, and carved his name in the glass on a window. There's a super craft shop in a converted Church between the beach at the bottom of the loch and the Hotel, which does soup and sandwiches for a quick and nutritious lunch.
From the village there are a number of nice walks. You can go through the arch into Taymouth Castle estate- golf course now- and wander along the riverside. You can go over the river and turn left into what was the old policies and walk along the loch side and through the old gardens.
It's quite wild when you get past the time share stuff; and you can climb Drummond Hill above the north side of the loch. There are a range of waymarked paths.
And if you're up to the walk, drive along the north side of the loch to Ben Lawers and drive up to the National Trust visitor centre. Time it right and then walk up to the top. Don't do this if it's raining unless you're nuts!
I did the next bit for a girl who was staying in the area a week, so you may need to pick the wheat from the chaff.
Starting at Dunkeld you will find nearby the Loch of the Lowes which is a wildlife reserve owned by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. It's one of the osprey sites and they should be there, so you should visit.
Further north a couple of miles, at Inver is the Hermitage, also owned by the National Trust, a lovely place to walk in the trees along by the river Braan. There's also a nice walk up the hill above Dunkeld, which I have directions for in a mag.
Next Aberfeldy. the obvious place is the Birks. Do you know your Burns?
Nice walks along the riverside. There's a pub in Aberfeldy called something like the Black Watch. It's just at the junction of the Weem Road and the main road through the town. The Weem Hotel used to be great and it still has some character and is worth a visit, but we had a meal there a couple of years ago and it was a disaster.
Nearby you have Castle Menzies, which is open to the public and is worth a visit. Lastly on this bit is the Ailean Craggan, which has a horrible modern appearance but excellent food, good beer and good crack and company.
Killin is a strange mixture of awful tourist tat and outdoor shops. There's a lovely view at the Falls of Dochart at the top end of the town.
On the south side of Loch Tay you will find the Ardeonaig Hotel- lovely from the outside and reputed to have very good food. Stayed tehre last summer. It was top.
Glen Lyon. Driving west from Weem you come to Fortingall (if you don't take the turn off for Kenmore) It's a pretty but dull village with a row of thatched cottages. It's famous for 2 things- in the churchyard is a 300 year old Yew tree which is meant to be the oldest tree in Britain; and legend has it that Pontius Pilate was born here. Yes, really! His Da' was meant to have been a legionnaire here when he was born. I haven't been in the hotel for years but it has character and used to do great afternoon teas.
Just past Fortingall you get into the Glen proper. Some people think it's one of the most beautiful in Scotland. I certainly think it's very special. There are lots of lovely walks. There are Munros (mountains over 3000 feet high) on both sides of the Glen. At the top you come first to the hamlet of Brig of Balgie. The Post Office has a tea room and the whole affair is run by my friend Kate Conway. If you go down to the side of the river here you can walk up as far as Meggernie and then come back to the road and home again. Or drive on up to the dam.
The drive from Brig of Balgie over the hill past Ben Lawers to Loch Tay side is beautiful. Ben Lawers is owned by the National Trust and there is a very good visitor centre which is worth a visit. They own the mountain for the alpine flora. It's a deceptively easy looking mountain.
Another good day out would be... drive straight up the A9, passing Killiecrankie and the soldier's leap; House of Bruar (the Harrods of the north), Dalwhinnie (distillery); Kingussie (Ruthven Barracks) Aviemore (architectural nightmare, but good for Cairngorm- you can take the funicular to the top if you like) Inverness (don't stop- it's not worth it! Lunch on Loch Ness side; stop at castle Urquart; down the Great Glen to Spean Bridge (Commando Monument) then Fort William (armpit of the west) passing Aonach Mor and Ben Nevis; 12 miles south along Loch Linnhe to Ballachulish, over the Bridge and up to Glen Coe- through the Glen of Weeping (National Trust)to Tyndrum(Green Welly shop because you just HAVE to) past Crianlarich and along Glen Dochart to Lix- down to Killin at the other end of Loch Tay- along the south side of the Loch, stopping for dinner at the Ardeonaig and then 12 miles to home.
You realise that three days worth of options I've put in there.
Stay about Killin, I think.
Day 3. Again, drive to Crianlarich, Tyndrum, and south-west to Dalmally. Along the top of Loch Awe and down into Oban
Oban is worth an hour to look round and you could do the distillery tour then CONCENTRATE on Kilmartin Glen. If you're at the right time of year, the gardens at Arduaine are stunning.
Go south through Kilmartin, stopping only to see…the stone circles, standing stones, chambered cairns and lots of other evidence of our prehistoric ancestors. Go to Dunadd, which is where we are supposed to have crowned the Kings of the Picts and climb the hill and see if your feet fit the grooves in the stones. The cross the moor (a National Nature Reserve) to Crinan. There is a pretty little canal which goes the 8 miles from Crinan to Ardrishaig.
Stop at the Crinan Hotel and have afternoon tea overlooking the Atlantic.
A further option for you would be to take a quick side trip across the Atlantic to Seil Island. The village of Easdale at the far end is still one of the prettiest places. Left over from the slate mining of the 18th and 19th century, it’s rows of pretty white painted cottages looking over to the island of Easdale. Boat trips round the Corrievreckan whirlpool. There’s a hotel with rooms at the Bridge, called the Tigh an Truish (the House of the trousers).
At the bottom of Kilmartin Glen you will find Lochgilphead and Ardrishaig- stop for the Vital Spark,- and on south to Tarbert. This is a lovely little fishing village with a picturesque harbour. The west coast of Scotland has huge long se inlets, which we call sea lochs. They are like mini-fjords. So to get from anywhere to anywhere takes ages. It’s why, until the war, the economy of the west coast was based on the “Puffers”, little boats which went from port to port taking everything that was necessary to keep places going. The most famous was the Vital Spark, the heroine of “Para Handy’s Tales” by Neil Gunn- read, mark and inwardly digest, before arrival. She’s moored at Ardrishaig, (or sometimes Crinan) which I’m taking you past, so have a look.
Go up Loch Fyne, and you will find Inverary, a glorious planned village, built by the Campbell Duke of Argyll (boo, hiss). Visit the castle and the jail (read R.L. Stevenson’s “Kidnapped” before you come). There’s also a terrific restaurant called the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar just outside the village. Loch Fyne is where “Finnan haddies” come from- essentially smoked haddock. You will see little roadside signs inviting you to purchase and should try to do something about this
Then cross the Rest and Be Thankful and head round the south of Loch Lomond and back up to Stirling.
let me stress I am NOT suggesting anyone do all of this in 3 dys, but your friends could cherry pick bits
May 15th, 2005 | 02:53 PM
#6
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Sheila, what a fabulous reply. I copied it into a doc to take with us to Scotland. You have helped me before. My cousin and I leave Friday for Edinburgh, Pitlochry, and Lower Largo. Thanks for all of your generous advice to me and others.
Just wondering - are you a history teacher or travel agent?
Helen B., Boston area
Just wondering - are you a history teacher or travel agent?
Helen B., Boston area
