mocha_dolce

We'll be stopping in Edinburgh for the final leg of our UK journey next summer. We'll have a total of six nights in Scotland. Owing to flight arrangements on points, it looks like we'll be there smack in the middle of the busiest time of the year with the Tattoo and the Fringe festival taking place while we are there. (I'm dreading this a little.)

My questions:

Hotel: Needs to be within walking distance of the train station and sights; however, I'd prefer not to be in the noisiest part of the city during these festivals. Should we consider New Town over the Royal Mile? Are there plenty of restaurants in that area as well? I know we need to book soon, so I would appreciate any suggestions. Budget: up to 450 BP/night.

Tattoo and Fringe: Should we attend? We're in our 60's and not big fans of crowds, but I'd hate to miss out on something unique and magnificent. It looks like there are less crowded options to attend the Tattoo with special seating but it's very expensive and looks like there is a dress code. If you have attended the Tattoo, please share your experience. I know even less about the Fringe (I'll be researching), so I'd appreciate any firsthand experience there as well.

Royal Yacht Britannia: Has anyone visited it or stayed on the neighboring ship hotel? Is it accessible by public transport from the city center?

Trips out of Edinburgh: I was originally planning to have our base in Edinburgh, with a day trip or two out of the city. Our nonstop flight home is from Edinburgh. As mentioned above, we'll have a total of 6 nights in Scotland. Not a lot, I know. Should we consider staying 2-3 nights elsewhere to enjoy the countryside and end in Edinburgh? Assuming we stick with our original plan and stay in Edinburgh for the entire 6 nights, what day trips would be worthwhile? Willing to consider small group tours, private tours, or easy train trips. I would appreciate any input from recent visitors.

janisj

Just some initial comments -- no place walking distance to Waverly station will be quiet during the Festivals and Tattoo. It isn't just the Tattoo and Fringe (which is massive) but also the Edinburgh Festival and the Children's Festival all running concurrently

The Fringe/festivals are terrific but very VERY crowded. Which makes other sites in the city also very crowded. There will be queues everywhere and making dinner reservations well in advance is important.

Not sure what you mean by 'less crowded' options for the Tattoo. I've been to the Tattoo at least 6 times (LOVE it!!) There are posh seats and slightly less posh seats, and expensive dinner + ticket packages - but every seat is sold and all are equally 'crowded'.

Hotels in the city will be charging 2 to 3 times their normal room rates.

I LOVE Edinburgh in August but it is not an easy time to visit and does take some endurance to fight the crowds

Never stayed in the Hotel but have visited the Britannia twice -- just about EVERYPLACE in Edinburgh is accessible by public transport.

Where else are you visiting over your 6 nights?

An option could be to stay somewhere like Stirling or Linlithgow and take the train into Edinburgh as a day trip to sightsee -- accommodations will cost a fraction of what they would in the city

But tell us where else you are planning on visiting, where/how you are arriving in Scotland (driving up from England, flying in, train???

Gardyloo

Let's start a bit in reverse. First, how many nights? As you surmise, this is an extremely busy and crowded time in the city. It's electric, with so many performing arts events, exhibitions and all that going on. Note it's not just the Fringe, but also the "big" Edinburgh International Festival, around which the Fringe formed 50 - 60 years ago; the "big" festival tends to be a bit more high-brow and music oriented. If you're into the performing arts at all, then Edinburgh during the festivals is without peer in terms of choice and diversity. But of course it comes at a price - crowds everywhere - on the streets, queuing for tables in cafes, pubs and restaurants, high hotel prices...So this is your call. If your touring of Britain before Scotland has been more countryside -oriented than urban, then multiple nights in Edinburgh might be a welcome change. On the other hand, it might well be too much of a good thing. You just have to go with your gut as to how many nights. I would say that a minimum of two nights, one occupied with a performance of the Tattoo, would be necessary. I'll come back to this.

Tattoo: It's something of a cliche but there's no denying that there are few outdoor performances in the world that can hold a candle to the spectacle of the Tattoo on the castle esplanade. I would say, yes, go. I would say no to the Royal Gallery, the part of the seating that carries a "no jeans" dress code; it's unnecessary. Just dress warmly; even though it's August it's still Scotland.

Britannia: Leith is very accessible to the Old and New Towns via public transport, but I personally wouldn't stay there - too far from the action.

Tours: There are a couple of companies offering small group tours beginning and ending in Edinburgh. Rabbies is probably the best known. and offer a very wide range of day trips or longer overnight tours. Scotland Tours from Edinburgh | Rabbie's Tours (rabbies.com) Can we assume that renting a car is out of the question?

Hotel: The first thing I'd do is book a hotel room that can be cancelled at no cost and do it for as many nights as you decide to stay in the city. You can pare back the number of nights if you choose, but adding them when the hotel is sold out, not so easy. In terms of location, my preference would be in the New Town. especially around Charlotte Square. Walkability from Waverley Station wouldn't be a priority to me (plenty of cabs for the short trip) but do note that Edinburgh can be rather hilly - from the New Town to the Old is an uphill climb, and from the northern edge of the New Town (around my favorite neighborhood, Stockbridge) to Princes Street is also uphill. (Both are downhill going back, duh.)

Once the hotel booking is behind you, you have plenty of time to research the various goings-on and options for activities both in the city and outside. The good news is that Edinburgh is surrounded by glorious countryside and picturesque, historic places, and easily accessed to/from many others. The bad news is that it makes choosing difficult. I'd recommend Undiscovered Scotland - Undiscovered Scotland: Home Page - as a good source of information and ideas on how you could make the best use of your days in Scotland.

janisj

One addition to Gardyloo's excellent post . . . re the Tattoo "Just dress warmly; even though it's August it's still Scotland." should also say including a waterproof poncho or raincoat + hat . . . Umbrellas are not allowed and it's still Scotland . . .

mocha_dolce

janisj & Gardyloo: Thanks for your posts with all the suggestions. As I suspected, Edinburgh in August is going to be a little more than I bargained for! To fill in some of the gaps/respond to your questions:

-- We will be arriving by train from York after some time in London, so mostly it's an urban stay, possibly with some day trips out of the cities. (I have separate threads on York and London.)
-- We have a maximum total of 6 nights in Scotland. (I could divvy up the days to allot more to London or York. We have spent several weeks in London in the past, so we've seen a lot of the biggest sites there.) We would happily have stayed in Edinburgh fro 6 nights (as I love unpacking and settling in for a while) and done daytrips out of the city, but all that activity in Edinburgh has given me pause. (I don't want to change the dates for our arrival and departure because it was very difficult to find a daytime flight into London AND a nonstop out of Edinburgh. I looked through many months to find these flights for minimal miles.)
-- Yes, I was supposed I was looking at the "posh" seats Tattoo (which appeared to be like boxes in a theater), but we're not particularly posh people. I thought maybe they might be less crowded, easier to access refreshments and restrooms, etc. But I didn't book this trip with the Tattoo in mind, so I confess I don't know much about it.
--I know I need to book an Edinburgh hotel ASAP. In fact, we are working backward, trying to book Scotland first. I suspect there might be some minimum stay requirements during this time as well: I need to scope that out. And a lot of hotels seem to offer a significantly lower rate for nonrefundable bookings, so I am mindful of that as well.
--Regarding other sightseeing in Scotland and possible other bases, we will not be driving and prefer train (vs bus) connections. This is one reason why I'd prefer a hotel close enough to walk to the train station. Neither of us has mobility issues, but I'm not a hills enthusiast either. We could consider splitting the stay between Edinburgh and a smaller town, possibly one of those you suggested janisj.

maitaitom

Hotel: Needs to be within walking distance of the train station and sights; however, I'd prefer not to be in the noisiest part of the city during these festivals. Should we consider New Town over the Royal Mile? Are there plenty of restaurants in that area as well? I know we need to book soon, so I would appreciate any suggestions. Budget: up to 450 BP/night.

Market Street Hotel across from train station is where we stayed in May. Great location, quiet, helpful staff and comfortable. Fantastic shower. About a 5-minute walk to Royal Mile. Breakfast is expensive, so we went next door to Gordon St Coffee Edinburgh for croissants, pastries and cappuccino. Our favorite two restaurants were Angels With Bagpipes on the Royal Mile and L'Escargpt Bleu (56 Broughton St). Fantastic steak tartare. Well within your budget
https://www.marketstreethotel.co.uk/

mocha_dolce

Maitaitom: Funnily enough, I just ran across this hotel on my own. Which room category did you have?

nyse

(I don't want to change the dates for our arrival and departure because it was very difficult to find a daytime flight into London AND a nonstop out of Edinburgh. I looked through many months to find these flights for minimal miles.)

I very much hope this isn’t your experience, but your trip is a good 9 months away and airlines have been known to change flights at short notice. Good luck to you, it sounds like a great trip.

maitaitom

"Maitaitom: Funnily enough, I just ran across this hotel on my own. Which room category did you have?"

Roomy - £193 per night (10% discount for multiple day stay). 250-270 square foot room. Comfortable bed, fantastic shower (something that to me is very underrated when traveling), quiet. Free glass of champagne upon arrival at the front desk (which you take an elevator to). Both couples thought the hotel a great bargain, especially being so close to so many attractions. Staff helpful and very nice. Have fun!!

janisj

Do note that the £193, 25 sq meter room maitaitom booked last Spring will be well over £300 in August -- still well within your budget though.

AJPeabody

Actually, I checked their online booking for August 2023 and the rate was less for their basic room, if booked now.

Gardyloo

Well here's an out-of-town suggestion that you might want to consider, just as a thought experiment for the time being.

Take the train from Edinburgh to Glasgow and change trains within Glasgow's Queen Street Station to a second one, this one going to and through part of the Western Highlands to the town of Oban. Oban is a pleasant town that provides access to several Inner Hebrides islands, most notably the Isle of Mull, second in size only to the Isle of Skye, and IMO Skye's equal (or maybe superior) in terms of diversity and scenery. From Oban you can book day tours of Mull, also trips to the island of Iona, the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland and much of northern England, and to the uninhabited (except by puffins, seals and other wildlife) island of Staffa, site of Fingal's Cave.

I believe there are also local guides in Oban that can arrange day tours to other destinations, such as Kilmartin Glen, located around 30 miles south of Oban and home to the largest collection of neolithic monuments and artifacts in Scotland - standing stones, carved crosses and gravestones, stone circles, burial cairns... littering the floor of the glen - a beautiful and evocative place. Or about the same distance in the other direction is Glen Coe, famously scenic and historic. Of course, if you were willing to rent a car for a day (a couple of local suppliers in Oban) you could visit all of these places easily during a boat-free day.

Oban has ample lodging in all price ranges, and needless to say it will be far cheaper than Edinburgh during the festivals. Spend a couple of nights there then head back to Edinburgh on the train, badda bing.

Just a thought, anyway.

Here's a video covering a day's excursion to Mull, Staffa and Iona


And here's another one covering a day trip to the island of Coll

janisj

Yes -- but the basic room is not the room maitaitom described. The 250-270 sq ft rooms are £320-£350-ish. The basic rooms are cheaper -- for a reason.

AJPeabody

Just wanted people to know that if all you want is a bed and a location in August, it can be done cheaper.

janisj

Their rates are very date dependent -- booked today, three nights Aug 16 - 19, the small basic room is £276 per night. Aug 11 and 12 the same room is £300 and £382 respectively. During the last week of Aug (after the Tattoo is over but while the Fringe is still running) the nightly rate for the same small room is £184

mocha_dolce

Thanks to all for sharing your insights and suggestions. Very helpful! For now, I have taken the advice to book early since August will be such a busy time. I reserved the Market St. Hotel for our 6 nights, It's neither the cheapest nor the most expensive, about 290 GBP on average per night for a "Vista" room (Some nights are more than others). I think not having to walk far from the train station with suitcases is a big plus. This hotel does have lots of good reviews, but also some complaints about the bathroom configuration which I suspect I will agree with. For this length of stay, I might prefer a small apartment served by at least a reception desk, but we'll see. I know we will do some day trips out of town, even if we stick with Edinburgh as a base, so I need to scope that out. Our preference would be DIY by train since we will be so close to the station, but we are open to small group or private tours for the countryside.

janisj

Assuming your booking is refundable check out Fraser Suites. Its a nice aparthotel with kitchens. https://www.frasershospitality.com/e...medium=organic

For out of town day trip I highly recommend Rabbies - small group one and multi day tours -- usually fewer than 16. Though in August I'd imagine most would be fully booked up the the 16 max passengers. Day trips by train are pretty limited actually - Glasgow, Stirling, St Andrews (with a 7 mile bus or taxi connection at the Leuchers/St Andrews end), a handful of others. Most rural/scenic places don't have rail service.

https://www.rabbies.com/en/scotland-...from-edinburgh

mocha_dolce

The Fraser Suites are gorgeous; I would consider them if they came with a king-sized bed.

I've been studying the Rabbies offerings, and I've read the trip report from the Fodorite who did two of them.

travelerfromf

I'd suggest to have a look at the Eden Locke hotel. It is in the New Town, around US$200/a night