Dordogne is a MUST!

Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 03:09 AM
  #1  
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Dordogne is a MUST!

Spent 4 days in Dordogne and it wasnt enough. Only managed to cover "Perigord Black" area cos the roads were so tiny. The scenery was breathtaking especially from the chateaus on the hilltops. St Cirq was right, Dordogne IS the most beautiful area of France. It looks very much like the English countryside, only more dramatic.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 05:59 AM
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Do tell more!! linwein!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 06:09 AM
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I'd like to hear more, as well! What town did you stay in? What did you see? What did you do?
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 06:10 AM
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jmw
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me too, me too. J.
 
Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 07:13 AM
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Ah, enlightenment!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 10:06 AM
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Hmmmmmm..just imagine how much we could get other people to do if we used the word "must" more often! I gather this one's "must" part didn't include responding to the pleas of the masses...perhaps it was just a troll.
 
Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 10:23 AM
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"I gather this one's "must" part didn't include responding to the pleas of the masses...perhaps it was just a troll."

Then again, the poster might have to work for a living to afford aforementioned vacation and not have time to respond immediately as some have wished. Or perhaps they are going on a Fourth of July trip. I think you judge too swiftly and much too harshly.

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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 10:47 AM
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Well said, maitai!

Have a happy 4th everyone. Although I won't be having maitais, I intend to have my fair share of rum swizzles!


Karen
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 10:51 AM
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" I intend to have my fair share of rum swizzles!"

Karen, since it seems all my business contacts have decided to leave for a loooooong weekend, I might have to start the maitais a little earlier this holiday weekend (no driving, of course).



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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 09:38 PM
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Relax Intrepid- give me time to respond. I dont live in the US so dont keep the same hours. I only came back 48 hours ago so still suffering from jet lag.

I stayed in Sarlat in Relais des Moussiderie which I found from the "Relais et Chateaux" guide. It was very nice with horses and a stream running thru and at only EUR110. I enjoyed walking thru the old town in Sarlat looking at the quintessential Perigord architecture. Had a fabulous meal at the garden of Le Presidal which took me half an hour to find after scarping my rear mirror on the narrow medieval walls. It rained near the end of dinner and I ran like a rabbit for shelter. When I reached my car,I was drenched to the bone and filled to the neck with terrine of and pan fried foie gras.

I stayed there 4 days which was not nearly enough. Only managed to see Perigord Black driving from Sarlat to St Cyprien. The towns which I visited were along the route from La Rogue de Gageac, Domme to St Cyprien.

Got lost driving up the hill town of Domme to hv a bird's eye view of the valley below with little yellow canoes floating in the river Dordogne, whislt I waited for my laundry to be done at the only outlet open at 1pm. The owners were British-ah, figures. The French dont work when the noon sun is above.

I visited the garden Marquesas and castle Beynac (where Joan of Arc was filmed) and could see all the castles lined up on each hill as if the ancient kings were trying to outdo each other. The landscape had a magical medieval fairyland feel to it and I half expected a dragon to be fighting a knight.I daydreamed this when the guide was giving his tour in French, which I dont understand. Why cant he just let us roam his catle freely- you know how slowly the French work. My baby weighed a ton on my shoulders as I spent 2 hours listening to his History lesson of the castle. My son just wanted to play in the stables.

La Roque (de Gageac)- why do they name all their towns "La Roque"? was the most dramatic of them with the houses clinging and blending into the cliffs. A couple of old aunties were trying to paint the tan-brown-yellow ochre scenery into their canvas but from afar they looked like lumps of **** ..um..clay. No chance of a budding Monet then.

After 4 wonderful days in the Perigord black I wished I had more time to see Perigord white, green and central. I really regretted not seeing Rocamodour and Brantome but alas, what is life w/o regrets? It was either two more days of exploring the land of the French Lord of the Rings or relaxing in an oak tub of wine at the Spa Les Sources de Caudalie. Being a hedonist with aching shoulders, I chose the latter.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 10:18 PM
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Good stuff linwein.
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Old Jul 4th, 2003, 06:29 AM
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THANK YOU, Linwein!! Now, I too, long to be a hedonist!!

I, unlike others, am patiently waiting. Take your time, we will be here.
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Old Jul 4th, 2003, 07:00 AM
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Funny I've never seen any posts about the gardens of the Manoir d'Erignac. For admirers of topiary, this is the place. They take people around in groups, and although the comentary is in french, the written materials are very good.
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