ira

Intersting place, jim.

www.mappy.com says that it is about 1 1/2 hr drive from Sarlat-la-canade, though.

StCirq

Sue - you most definitely will not need A/C in May in the Dordogne - you may need a nice fire at night, though. Seriously, it doesn't really warm up until late June or July, unless it's a very unusual weather pattern. I would not pay 25 extra for A/C.

And while that château may be lovely, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne is not at ALL within the main area you'll want to be touring. You'll be quite happy at Le Renoir, I'm sure.

Sue4

Thanks again for all the replies. Glad to hear I won't need A/C, and I'll be sure to take warm enough clothes! I never seem to be able to get that just right, as I usually go to France in May or late October. I'm so excited about this trip, and I'm sure will be asking some more questions in the next several months. Hope I can get through to some of these hotels, especially Domaine de la Rhue and Les Griffons. I was so happy tonight in perusing some old posts to see a "rave" about Les Griffons from Patrick (who posts on here often, and seems to like to stay in nice places).

laverendrye

Sue4: We were considering staying at Les Griffons last year (but finally chose Perigord Vert in Brantôme). It closes for the winter, so that is why you haven't heard. According to the website, it will reopen on April 8. It does look very nice and the location is perfect, but I can't comment on the rooms or the food.

As to whether to spend a night on the Dordogne or stay the whole time in Sarlat, you might want to consider a night in Domme at the Esplanade. See Ger's (OReilly) posts on her stay there.

We rented a place in La Rocque-Gageac for two weeks and loved it. We dined several times a La Belle Etoile, and it is very good indeed, but I'm not sure how tranquil the rooms would be as it is right on the main (and only) road through town. Domme, on the other hand, would be a wonderful place once all the daytime visitors hace gone, and the Esplanade's views across the valley are marvellous.

Sue4

Laverendrye, did you like the Perigord Vert? I looked at it on the Logis de France website, as well as La Chabrol in Brantome. Both looked nice on the site. So far, I've booked 5 nights in Sarlat at the Renoir. May 8 must be a French holiday, and things are booking up for that weekend.

After Sarlat I would like to spend 1 or 2 nights on the river, as I mentioned.
Tried for the Belle Etoile on the Logis de France site, but just had e-mail back that they are full already, and then another e-mail that the hotel is closed until March, and they can't get in touch with them. So I don't know!
I think the Esplanade in Domme would be lovely, however, I get a little nervous about the ride up there (is it VERY steep?) Narrow doesn't bother me much, but steep does, in a manual car, with cars in back of me! Anyway, one night there, with the beautiful view, would be nice. Let me know your opinion about the road up to Domme for a nervous person (from flat Florida)!

OReilly

Sue: I highly recommend the Esplanade in Domme. I stayed there earlier this year and loved it. The restaurant is excellent! I'll top my trip report for you.

PLEASE do NOT worry about the drive up to the village - I have experienced far worse than that. You'll get used to it after a couple of tries. I would recommend a decent car - try to rent a VW and avoid the Fords!

regards Ger

Sue4

Thanks Ger, for the reply. I have read your trip report, in fact, several times previously - wonderful. The L'esplanade really does sound nice, and I would do the half-board option, too.
Guess I could manage the drive up, albeit fearfully. I remember last May when I was in Provence, I parked my car at the bottom of the medieval city in Vaison -la -Romaine, and schlepped my smallest bag up the hill to the hotel. I wonder how Domme compares with Vaison!
Anybody know?

OReilly

I was in Vaison in Oct/Nov (lovely town!). Domme is definately easier as the streets are much wider and straighter. There is a winding road from the base of the hill to the town gates which is not bad at all. Then you go through the gateway and have a bit of a climb to the town square, which is flat, then another climb up to the hotel.

Just remember, its not YOUR clutch - just floor it

regards Ger

laverendrye

Sue4: We stayed one night at the Perigord Vert and enjoyed the stay. Our room was quite comfortable and the food good. We dined outside in the garden terrace. The Chabrol is nicely situated on the river, and I understand that its restaurant is very good. It's 3 stars as opposed to 2 stars for the Perigord Vert I think either would be fine, and quite a bit cheaper than the Moulin de L'Abbaye.

I wouldn't worry about driving up to Domme. I've encountered many steeper and narrower roads than you will find there. You won't regret staying there.

Sue4

Well, I'm happy to report that I've been confirmed at my hotels, and have printed confirmations - most of them.
So I guess the closed hotels do check their e-mail! I've decided as follows:

2 nights - Les Griffons - Bourdeilles
5 nights - Le Renoir - Sarlat
2 nights - l'Esplanade - Domme
2 nights - Domaine de la Rhue -
Rocamadour
2 nights - Terminus- Cahors
last night - Paris or CDG

I still haven't completely decided about the first night - training to Angouleme OR Perigueux. Probably Angouleme because of the logistics timewise.

I know this might seem like too many hotels to some, but this will give me a good taste of several, and after all, it is 2 weeks! I had considered cutting off a few of the days and going to Albi and Carcassonne, but decided on a more relaxing time in the Dordogne and Lot -and I can visit castles, caves, and pretty villages to my heart's content. I'll save Albi and Carcassonne for next time. Thanks again for all the help.

StuDudley

Sue4

Did I send you my itinerary on the Dordogne? We've vacationed there for 4 weeks, spread our over 3 trips recently. The itinerary describes our favorite sites, towns, scenic drives, and also includes a section from my wife's diary where she discusses our favorite restaurants - with specific menus described.

E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.

I didn't catch your post when you first made it, but others have givien you good advice. We usually fly in/out of Toulouse when we visit the Dordogne. We are staying there for 4 weeks in Sept '05, and a RT from San Francisco to Paris is $1,030, and a RT to Toulouse from SF is $1,115 - so it's only $85 more to fly to Toulouse (from Amsterdam on KLM). Since they completed the freeway around Cahors last year, the drive to the Dordogne is very fast. However, there are some great very scenic areas between Toulouse & the Dordogne. We've vacationed for 2 weeks there & it's quite lovely.

I'm not a big fan of Cahors - I think Figeac is much prettier. For my Birthday in '02, we dined at the Terminus and it was probably one of the most disappointing meals of our trip (we spend 2 months in France each year so that's about 30-40 meals a year - & I'm a major foodie). Also, the area around the Terminus isn't that neat (I assume it's safe, however). Just my 2 cents.

Stu Dudley
San Mateo (San Francisco), Ca

Sue4

Stu, thanks for the reply. I'm going to e-mail you for your itinerary, as I would love to have it. I've thought about flying into Toulouse for a next trip and driving around those areas south of the Perigord. Toulouse sounds like such a big city, though, and I freak out about car pick-up in big cities.

The reason I picked Cahors to end the trip was because it seemed to be an easy car drop off point, and the Terminus is near the train station for trip back to Paris. I was sorry to hear you had a disappointing meal at the Terminus - St. Cirq loves it!

StuDudley

>>>Toulouse sounds like such a big city, though, and I freak out about car pick-up in big cities.<<

It is a big city. We've picked up a car at the airport, we've picked one up at the train station, and also returned one at the station. I don't remember any difficulty getting to/from the station. It's not in the "center" of town.

If you don't want to go near downtown Toulouse, pick up a car at the airport & stay in Albi the first night. I like Albi much more than Cahors.

You could also stay the last night near Caussade (south of Cahors) and take the TGV to Paris (5 hrs) with no train changes. Are you going to stay in Paris, or go directly to CDG ??

I have a 35+ page itinerary on the Languedoc/Roussillon area (south of Dordogne). E-mail me if you want that one too.

Sue4

Stu, I would like both of your itineraries - sounds great! Hope you got my e-mail. I'm going straight to CDG to spend the night at an airport hotel, as I have an early flight out the next day. I will definitely research your other suggestions for train schedules. I already checked out Albi, and the train schedule was not good at all. I need an extra week for this trip!

StCirq

I do love Cahors. I think people's experiences with a place vary depending on what was going on when they were there, what the weather was like, etc. But I have been to Cahors dozens and dozens of times and I LOVE the Terminus and its restaurant. It HAS been abolut 3 years since I had dinner there, so it's entirely possible Stu's got some more recent info. But I encourage you to try the place and see if you like it. And why not report back here, because I can't be everywhere all the time to check up on these places I have enjoyed.

Sue4

St. Cirq, I definitely will report back on here after my trip - I think that's what helps make this forum so great. By the way, I've about decided to take your advice and take the train from Paris to Perigueux (via Bordeaux), and skip Angouleme.

Stu, thanks so much for sending me your wonderful, detailed itineraries - absolutely full of very helpful information. And the restaurant reviews, with descriptions of food, really had me salivating- thanks to your wife for that! (I would suggest that anyone planning a trip to the Dordogne or Languedoc area should request these itineraries from Stu.)