Dordogne plans?
Jan 21st, 2006, 03:23 PM
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Dordogne plans?
My husband and I are planning a trip to the Dordogne in Sept 2006. I would love some help with our itinerary as it is our first time in this area and I know from reading numerous threads that many of you are very knowledgeable about it.
We are travelling with another couple and they are very set on staying in high end places, preferibly Relais & Chateau properties. While I am not opposed to luxury, I am more interested in making sure we choose places that will allow us to get the most out of our time. Here's what we've got so far: two nights in St Emillion area, two nights near Sarlat, and two nights further south, the Lot Valley. We are looking at Hostellerie de Plaisance, Le Vieux Logis and Chateau de Mercues respectively. Is anyone familiar with these properties? How does Le Vieux Logis compare with Chateau de la Treyne? By staying in Tremolat are we too far from Rocamadour, other sites? Also, what order would be best for these three stops? Any other suggestions, changes?
Thanks.
We are travelling with another couple and they are very set on staying in high end places, preferibly Relais & Chateau properties. While I am not opposed to luxury, I am more interested in making sure we choose places that will allow us to get the most out of our time. Here's what we've got so far: two nights in St Emillion area, two nights near Sarlat, and two nights further south, the Lot Valley. We are looking at Hostellerie de Plaisance, Le Vieux Logis and Chateau de Mercues respectively. Is anyone familiar with these properties? How does Le Vieux Logis compare with Chateau de la Treyne? By staying in Tremolat are we too far from Rocamadour, other sites? Also, what order would be best for these three stops? Any other suggestions, changes?
Thanks.
Jan 21st, 2006, 03:47 PM
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I'm familiar with all three properties. Hostellerie de la Plaisance is a good choice for St-Emilion (do you really want to spend two nights there, though?). Le Vieux Logis is a beautiful property, but it kind of leaves me cold (as I mentioned on another thread last time I had dinner there the place was crawling with elderly Scotsmen in kilts with terriers - maybe it was a convention or something)- there is NOTHING going on in Trémolat and it's not that near the main sites of the Dordogne (especially Rocamadour, which isn't even IN the Dordogne and is a pretty long trip even from Sarlat, and something you should visit on your way south and not take time out of your all-too-brief sojuorn in the Dordogne for). The Château de Mercuès is an absolute gem!
The order for those stops would be entirely dependent on where you're coming from - Paris? Bordeaux? Toulouse? Elsewhere?
The order for those stops would be entirely dependent on where you're coming from - Paris? Bordeaux? Toulouse? Elsewhere?
Jan 21st, 2006, 04:38 PM
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When I plan a trip to someplace that has more things to do & see than I have time for, I choose a place to stay based on the same criteria I used when I purchased my house - location, location, & location.
I agree with what St Cirq has already told you. St Emilion is not worth 2 nights. We were there in Sept only because we landed in Bordeaux at 4:00pm, which was too late to make it to our Gite near Domme by normal arrival time, so we stayed somewhere in-between the first night. The town is worth a couple of hours - that's all.
The Tremolat region is a little too remote, and I think it's not as scenic as other areas either. Same with Mercues. I've wandered through the property a couple of times, and it is quite nice (loaded with Americans), but I'm not a big fan of that corner of the region - I think areas both north & south of there are more scenic. I've also wandered through La Tryne, which is also beautiful. I like the location & setting more than Mercues. However, if you stay there, I believe that you are also required to dine there - and the restuarant is quite expensive.
Like I stated in the itinerary I sent you, the best area to stay in, is in a 25K radius around Sarlat. However, I don't know of any luxury hotel in the area - except for du Centenaire in Les Eyzies. I'm also not a big fan of staying in Les Eyzies, but if you really want to stay in a "luxury" place, perhaps that would do. St Cirq has a house about 2 K from there, so she can offer more comments.
If this were my vacation, and I had six days to plan for, I would spend 5 in the Sarlat area. If your next destination was south of the Dordogne, then stay at Mercues & visit Peche Merle & St Cirq Lapopie. If you are heading east, stay at La Treyne & visit all the cute villages around Carrenac/St Cere/Martel and also Rocamadour and Padirac. If you are heading west, then leave the Sarlat area late in the day & stay in St Emilion.
Stu Dudley
I agree with what St Cirq has already told you. St Emilion is not worth 2 nights. We were there in Sept only because we landed in Bordeaux at 4:00pm, which was too late to make it to our Gite near Domme by normal arrival time, so we stayed somewhere in-between the first night. The town is worth a couple of hours - that's all.
The Tremolat region is a little too remote, and I think it's not as scenic as other areas either. Same with Mercues. I've wandered through the property a couple of times, and it is quite nice (loaded with Americans), but I'm not a big fan of that corner of the region - I think areas both north & south of there are more scenic. I've also wandered through La Tryne, which is also beautiful. I like the location & setting more than Mercues. However, if you stay there, I believe that you are also required to dine there - and the restuarant is quite expensive.
Like I stated in the itinerary I sent you, the best area to stay in, is in a 25K radius around Sarlat. However, I don't know of any luxury hotel in the area - except for du Centenaire in Les Eyzies. I'm also not a big fan of staying in Les Eyzies, but if you really want to stay in a "luxury" place, perhaps that would do. St Cirq has a house about 2 K from there, so she can offer more comments.
If this were my vacation, and I had six days to plan for, I would spend 5 in the Sarlat area. If your next destination was south of the Dordogne, then stay at Mercues & visit Peche Merle & St Cirq Lapopie. If you are heading east, stay at La Treyne & visit all the cute villages around Carrenac/St Cere/Martel and also Rocamadour and Padirac. If you are heading west, then leave the Sarlat area late in the day & stay in St Emilion.
Stu Dudley
Jan 22nd, 2006, 02:08 AM
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I agree that Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat and Chateau de Mercues are not the best locations. I really love Le Vieux Logis, not having met a roomful of Scots there, but it is expensive. I really dont believe it is necessary to spend top dollar to enjoy the Dordogne - and unfortunately if you do stay in a place like Le Centenarie (in Les Eyzies, probably one of the most unattractive places to stay) you are likely to be surrounded by other North American tourists. Not perhaps the best way to experience France.
Jan 22nd, 2006, 08:56 AM
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This is all very helpful – thank you. I AGREE that we are probably trying to do too much and are moving too fast. That being said, my hope in posting is to revise our plans with your help while still considering the parameters of our situation (i.e., a limited amount of time – 6 nights, the preferences of our traveling companions, etc). Therefore your points are well taken.
A couple of follow up questions for you:
First if we are interested in visiting some of the wine properties near St Emillion is two nights there still too much? Also, how easy is this to do? Anyone have any recommendations?
Second, if we do want to concentrate our time in the heart of the Dordogne (and this is not Tremolat) where should we locate ourselves? Would Vitrac/ Domaine de Rochebois be a better choice? A lot of people also seem to like the Hotel de l’Esplanade in Domme. How does this property compare to the R&C’s? Might it be another option for us?
Thanks again.
A couple of follow up questions for you:
First if we are interested in visiting some of the wine properties near St Emillion is two nights there still too much? Also, how easy is this to do? Anyone have any recommendations?
Second, if we do want to concentrate our time in the heart of the Dordogne (and this is not Tremolat) where should we locate ourselves? Would Vitrac/ Domaine de Rochebois be a better choice? A lot of people also seem to like the Hotel de l’Esplanade in Domme. How does this property compare to the R&C’s? Might it be another option for us?
Thanks again.
Jan 22nd, 2006, 09:10 AM
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We've driven by the Rochebois dozens of times - it seems like it's more of a "Country Club" than a typical Perigord hotel. There is a golf course all around it. Ive dined at l'Esplanade 5-6 times - wonderful views & excellent restaurant. It's not a R&C type place, however - it's listed in the Michelin Guide as a "restaurant with Rooms". Friends have stayed there, and they said the rooms are very nice & the views were supurb.
Personally, I have a bias against R&C properties. It seems (perhaps un-warrented) that the people that stay there want to isolate themselves a little. American English seems to be the language spoken most often. When I'm in France, I want to be "as French" as I can possible get.
Stu Dudley
Personally, I have a bias against R&C properties. It seems (perhaps un-warrented) that the people that stay there want to isolate themselves a little. American English seems to be the language spoken most often. When I'm in France, I want to be "as French" as I can possible get.
Stu Dudley
Jan 22nd, 2006, 09:59 AM
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If you're interested in touring wine ch$ateaux, the best thing to do is contact the Maison du Vin (http://www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/) and the Tourist Office (http://www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/)in Bordeaux. Bordeaux wine châteaux aren't as accessible as those in other parts of the country, and you'll probably want to get involved with a tour or two.
One night in Bordeaux (a great city) and one in St-Emilion might make sense for touring the wineries.
But then you've still only got 2 nights in the Dordogne - rather too little, IMO. Personally, I'd either skip the Bordeaux/St-Emilion part of the trip, or skip the Lot valley this time around (or add more days to your trip).
I agree that staying at top-end places in the Dordogne is totally unnecessary, given the wealth of charming accommodations available. I've seen rooms at l'Esplanade and thought they were quite lovely. Agree with Stu about the Rochebois - looks like a resort, not the "feel" one would necessarily be looking for in the Périgord.
La Domaine de la Barde in Le Bugue might fit your criteria AND give you a "French" feel - or Le Moulin de la Beune in Les Eyzies, or Le Relais des Cinq Châteaux in Vitrac, or La Belle Etoile in La Roque-Gageac. I'd check out some places like this before bowing to the call of the R&C properties for the reasons already given.
One night in Bordeaux (a great city) and one in St-Emilion might make sense for touring the wineries.
But then you've still only got 2 nights in the Dordogne - rather too little, IMO. Personally, I'd either skip the Bordeaux/St-Emilion part of the trip, or skip the Lot valley this time around (or add more days to your trip).
I agree that staying at top-end places in the Dordogne is totally unnecessary, given the wealth of charming accommodations available. I've seen rooms at l'Esplanade and thought they were quite lovely. Agree with Stu about the Rochebois - looks like a resort, not the "feel" one would necessarily be looking for in the Périgord.
La Domaine de la Barde in Le Bugue might fit your criteria AND give you a "French" feel - or Le Moulin de la Beune in Les Eyzies, or Le Relais des Cinq Châteaux in Vitrac, or La Belle Etoile in La Roque-Gageac. I'd check out some places like this before bowing to the call of the R&C properties for the reasons already given.
Jan 22nd, 2006, 11:59 PM
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When I go to Perigord I stay in Les Granges Hautes (about 10 km north of Sarlat).
I strongly reccommend this place.
www.les-granges-hautes.fr
From here, you can reach quickly Sarlat, the Dordogne valley (Domme, Beynac, La Roque-Gageac,...), St. Amand de Coly, Eyrignac,...
I strongly reccommend this place.
www.les-granges-hautes.fr
From here, you can reach quickly Sarlat, the Dordogne valley (Domme, Beynac, La Roque-Gageac,...), St. Amand de Coly, Eyrignac,...
Jan 23rd, 2006, 02:24 AM
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We've never stayed in Les Granges Hautes, since we live here, and so can't comment on their facilities. But they are in one of the most charming villages in the Dordogne. The little chateau in St. Crepin is an absolute gem. Walk down the hill rather than drive, so that you see it in the bend in the road. Quite magical. And great walks in the area as well.
Jan 23rd, 2006, 03:49 AM
#10
I highly recommend Les Granges Hautes as well. The couple that run the place are gracious and warm, the rooms are very comfortable a, and the grounds (with pool) are beautiful. It is accessible and not in the middle of things. Follow Jean-Yves advice for touring and for restaurants as well. It was the highlight of our trip 2 years ago.
Paule
Paule
Jan 23rd, 2006, 05:03 AM
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What fantastic information! Thank you; these suggestions for places to stay - especially Les Granges Hautes and La Domaine de la Barde - sound/look wonderful and like they will please all the members of our group. Thank you also, St Cirq, for the inforamtion on wine tours. I am now much more excited about this trip as it will be a more authentic Perigord experience (what I was always hoping for).
