jes3

Dordogne experts: any comments for first time visitors on using Carlux vs Sarlat as a base for a week's holiday in the Dordogne? We have found two houses we like, and are leaning more towards the one outside Carlux. Most of the places we would like to visit seem pretty accessible: Sarlat, Castelnaud, Beynac, La Roque Gageac, Eyrignac gardens, Rocamadour, Pech-Merle and hopefully much more! The distance between Carlux and Sarlat is not great, but is one easier to reach (and drive to/from daily) than the other? Also, is it feasible to plan to have lunch at Le Vieux Logis (special birthday) if we base ourselves at Carlux? Mappy estimates the drive to be about an hour. Is it a pleasant drive?
Any suggestions are appreciated.

ekscrunchy

The drive to Le Vieux Logis is beautiful; you will pass a bend in the river known as the Route du Cingle; the corniche road west of Limeuil is particularly stunning. Tremolat is a picture-perfect Dordogne hamlet and I recommend the restaurant very highly. We stayed in Domme. We combined lunch at the Logis with a morning visit to the Le Bugue market; you will have plenty of time to drive there for lunch from either of those locations.

I did not stay in Carlux but I thought the village was exquisite, and the access to various points of interest in all directions is excellent. I think your access would be easier if you stayed here rather than in Sarlat, but either way it will be fine since they are close together, as you note.

Carlux

Well, as someone who lives in Carlux, and manages houses in Sarlat, I guess I'm qualified to answer this question.

All the places you mention are easily accessible from either location, so you are really faced with the question of where you want to be based, in a village or in a town. We love Carlux, but it is small, with one butcher, a baker, a post office, and a cafe/restaurant. If being close to lots of restaurants and shops, particularly in the evening is important to you, Sarlat is better. If you will be cooking at home, or going out in the day and resting at home in the evening, Carlux would be the choice.

It is an hour's drive from Carlux to the Vieux Logis, which we did on Wednesday. Lunch is wonderful, and the drive along the river, past Beynac and La Roque Gageac, then further on the Limeuil, is very pretty.

And, as we always tell people, a week is not enough. We encourage a two week stay minimum, - after 13 years here, we are still finding wonderful things to see and do.

StCirq

Either one is fine. I myself would prefer Sarlat, but don't have a strong preference for it. The drive is beautiful. Also don't think much of the Vieux Logis, but you won't be disappointed - though you'll spend a lot more euros than you need to for the experience. Just my two sous.

jes3

Thank you so much for such prompt responses! You have given us confidence to go ahead with our preferred plans: house in Carlux, celebration lunch at the Vieux Logis, and many wonderful days inbetween! We hope seven days will be enough to give us a tase of the area. We have two more days in Perigord on the way there (Brantome vicinity we think: Moulin de L'Abbaye or Moulin du Roc?)when we plan to visit Perigeaux, and two nights before that en route from Paris ( about halfway, suggestions please?)

Carlux

My two sous on the Vieux Logis - it has changed considerably in the last few years, with a new chef, and now has a Michelin star. I would definitely recommend lunch during the week, when the 'menu tapas' of wonderful little inventive dishes can be had for 34 euros. We consider it a great bargain - if you want a celebration dinner it will be more. We always go for the lunch and have not yet been disappointed.

tomboy

Is there more than one Carlux? 2 years ago we stayed at a duck -> foie gras farm/gite outside a town named Carlux, which seemed only about 10 minutes from Sarlat. Nice place to stay, by the way./\

StCirq

Well, that's good to know, Carlux. The last time I ate there was about 5-6 years ago and swore I wouldn't return. Did not know about the change in management or the new chef and will happily give it another try.

So now that the Centenaire is closed, is that the only Michelin star in the Périgord?

ekscrunchy

Here is a (long) report I wrote last fall; you will find a description of our lunch at Le Vieux Logis in the Dordogne section, on the Tuesday..just scroll past Bayonne and San Sebastian...


http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34894706

cigalechanta

jes, we stayed at the moulin du Roc and had a dinner one night at the L'Abbaye. It rained heavily both times we were there so never saw much of the outside.

swagman

jes3

Would you be kind enough to share details of the 2 houses you found.

Carlux, given you are the local resident, could you make any recommendation in terms of accommodation.

I am planning for an extended trip to France in 2008 and intend to dedicate 2 weeks to the Dordogne and 2 weeks to the Perigold.

Will be travelling with a 3-year old toddler, so will require self-contained style accommodation.

Thank you both.

s

robjame

Carlux may be reluctant to toot her own horn but I am not shy about tooting it for her. Carlux manages two of these homes, one in Sarlat and one in Carlux.
http://www.yourfriendsinfrance.org/

jes3

Thanks again for all comments on the Vieux Logis. La Centennaire was our original choice, but as they are now closed Logis seems to be the top rated restaurant in the area. Glad to know Carlux thinks higly of it. ekskrunchy, such a wonderful trip report, I will make lots of notes, and will try the restaurant in Domme. cigalechanta, which moulin did you prefer? Finally, both houses we chose are quite large (8+beds) as we will spend that part of the holiday travelling with another family. Is this the house size you were looking for swagman?

swagman

jes3

8+beds is definitely too big for me. I am looking for either a 1- or a 2-bedder. Any suggestions?

s

jes3

I'm not the area expert swagman, but we found the 'Best of Perigord' site informative. I'm sure you've checked the site mentioned above by robjame. Holidaylets (.net) have a nice small house in Coux-Bigaroque (listed as Sarlat) that our friends were looking at. It has a pool-perhaps not so good for your three year old.

Carlux

'So now that the Centenaire is closed, is that the only Michelin star in the Périgord?'

No, there are several others, in Le Buisson, Terrasson, Perigueux, Brantome, plus others just outside the area, in the Lot. All good, but we still like the rapport qualite/prix at the Vieux Logis.

Thanks to Robjame for his comments. I would be happy to talk to anyone who is interested in renting in the area.

swagman

Carlux

What is the weather like now in the Dordogne?

s

annieladd

We stayed at Moulin du Roc last year, it was magical.

Also, if I were having a special birthday in the Dordogne, I can think of no sweeter place than La Meynardie, tucked in the countryside.

Best wishes for a dream trip, annieladd

StCirq

swagman: What do you mean by 2 weeks in the Dordogne and 2 weeks in the Périgord (note spelling)? They are, essentially, one and the same. There are complex historical differences between them, but I'm guessing if you're aware of that you wouldn't be here asking for travel assistance. So where are you planning to visit?

swagman

StCirq

Please excuse my ignorance. My plan is to stay 2 weeks in or around Sarlat (we stayed in Domme and St Cirque Lapopie during our previous visit) and perhaps 2 weeks around Perigueux which perhaps is too close to the former. Or perhaps further north closer to Limoges. Do you have any suggestion?

I have 4 weeks all up at this stage and maybe we can spend 2-3 weeks in the Dordogne and 1-2 weeks near the coast such as La Rochelle. The current plan is to be there in May or early June of 2008.

s