Ciao Bella! DD’s 1st Italian Trip or How we ate our way through Italy
Jun 17th, 2009, 09:44 PM
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Marigross,
Enjoying your report so much! I'm only disappointed that you are now leaving Rome - did DD get any more "Ciao Bella's" along the way? I told that story to my sister(along with many others) and I loved your reaction to the whole incident!
I have to say, the sewer smell is no small thing, and I really think it shows that your family rolls with the punches. Did you ever let the owner know about it?
Enjoying your report so much! I'm only disappointed that you are now leaving Rome - did DD get any more "Ciao Bella's" along the way? I told that story to my sister(along with many others) and I loved your reaction to the whole incident!
I have to say, the sewer smell is no small thing, and I really think it shows that your family rolls with the punches. Did you ever let the owner know about it?
Jun 18th, 2009, 01:25 PM
#63
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Sorry I have not replied to each and everyone of the responders, I appreciate all the lovely comments!
-----------------
<b>Monday, May 25th - Day 6: Driving out of Rome, visiting Hadrian and the Green Hills of Umbria</b>
<b><i>Let’s get Out of Here! </b></i>
We woke up before the alarm went off. The owner was supposed to come by at 10:00 to pick up the keys but we were packed and ready to go by 9:00AM. She had given us instructions in case this happened so after writing her a letter explaining the situation with the stink in the small room but also stating how much we had enjoyed it otherwise, we left.
I cannot stress enough how well located this apartment is. After a short 3 minute walk we were by the Largo Argentina taxi stand.
We had walked past this area a few times and I was yet to see more than two or three cats. I don’t know if it was too hot and they were hiding in the shade or if something else had happened but we never saw them, even this day, still in the morning.
After an exciting/adrenaline-inducing taxi ride (16E) through the small streets of Rome we were safely delivered to the Hertz-Villa Borghese office. Now, I knew that this office was inside an underground parking, sort of knew general directions how to get there, we even might have eventually found it ourselves but certainly not in the first five tries.
We were 3 hours early from our reserved pick-up time but the car was ready. We handed out our papers and they did not even bat an eye over the ridiculously-low price at which we were renting (74E/wk). Credit cards were given and DH suddenly decided to add on a pre-purchased tank of DIESEL (we had recently had a hard time filling up a rental in Las Vegas before returning it at 4:00AM) for what we later noticed to be an additional 90E!
The guy asked us where we were heading and we said Tivoli. He proceeded to give us detailed driving directions. As we left the office he said that he hoped not to see us back in three hours after endlessly driving in circles around Rome. Something about the ways he said it made me be believe that this actually happens once in a while.
<i>Note to Rental Newbies: The rental agency will never ask for the International Driver’s License that they tell you is required to rent. They don’t care about it. The IDL is for the cops in case you get into an accident, so don’t think that you wasted $15 and precious time going to AAA to get it, just be thankful that no one ever had to ask you for it. </i>
We did a full inspection of the car, called the guy out to show him two bumps in the car (I took pictures while DH and him went over them) and he dutifully recorded them in the contract. After we had pressed every button, turned on the A/C, switched the lights on, adjusted seats and mirrors and played with the windshield wipers, we still had to call out the guy a second time. We could not figure out how to open and close the gas tank (it was in the same circuit as the door locks).
<i>Note to <b>Maitaitom</b>, if he is reading: You will be pleased to know that since a certain incident involving the dispensing of gasoline into a diesel car, rental agencies across Italy have placed stickers over the gas tank covers stating ‘Diesel Only’ in large, red lettering. You have done a great service to your fellow travelers! BTW, we did try the reverse gear before leaving the parkhouse.</i>
<b><i>Let’s get this party really started</b></i>
Let me give you some background on my navigation skills. I have a really good sense of direction. I can read maps very well. The only drawback is that I have a problem VERBALIZING left and right. I have found this to be very common among left-handed persons, believe me, I have asked!
Over the years, DH and I have devised a system of ‘this way’ and ‘that way’ which substitutes for what normal people simply call ‘left’ and ‘right’. We had not had a need to seriously navigate for some time and we were a bit out of practice.
We made it past the exit and two roundabouts before a gap in communication made us miss the correct street and we went down Via Veneto instead of the way leading to the highway. A stop for map consultation was made; we recalculated a course and proceeded to see some interesting residential areas of Rome which had previously not been on The Plan.
Once we found our way back to the main avenue we had previously missed, we had no problems following the rest of the directions given to us by the friendly Hertz guy. After all, he would not have to see us coming back to his office in shame!
<b><i>The Plan for Today</b></i>
The plan was short and concise. We would drive from Rome to Tivoli in order to visit Villa Adriana (Villa D’Este is closed on Mondays) and then, make our way to Case Gialle (Gualdo Cattaneo, Perugia) through a combination of country roads, freeways and high ways which would be selected totally depending on available time. Our target was to be at the agro by 4:00PM.
<b><i>Let’s talk about maps for a moment</b></i>
Our main tool for the next week of driving was the Michelin Map of Tuscany and Umbria. I had studied it for endless hours before departure, highlighted the preferred routes, stuck endless post-it notes over it and finally got it folded in the perfect pattern that would allow me to open it like a boot to see all the area of Umbria on two ‘pages’ and the same for Tuscany. This is something that will be appreciated only by someone that has had to fully open a huge map over the dashboard of a moving car.
I had debated whether to get the more detailed Touring Club Italiano maps recommended by Stu and in hindsight, I should have. We really did not get lost at anytime over the next week but we mistook some streets because of lack of detail in the Michelin map. Once we were given a portion of the TCI map in Pienza, we realized that it would have been a good investment.
The secondary tool was the driving directions I had printed from www.viamichelin.com for all the driving routes that we would follow during the trip. I found them to be somewhat useful but the full map was better.
I should elaborate some more on this for the benefit Rental Newbies. Driving in Italy is an exercise on geography. Signage based on road numbers is very, very sparse and often confusing to the point where it is basically useless (unless you are on or searching for the Autostrada). All road signage show first the next town that you will come into if you follow that road followed by the next big town that the road will eventually hit. The same street over a single kilometer can easily be identified with three different road numbers.
Successfully navigation requires that you have a very good idea of where you are, the upcoming town and the basic geographic location of the bigger towns or cities in the area relative to your location, as these names will substitute for North, East, South and West.
I found that the Michelin driving directions were accurate but it was hard to confirm if we were indeed in the right place. Yes, we could have gotten ourselves a GPS but it would not have been as fun.
<b><i>When does a Villa turn into a Small Town?</b></i>
It took us close to an hour to reach Tivoli (counting the wrong turn in Rome) and another 15 fifteen to get to the parking of <b><i>Villa Adriana</b></i>. The driving in was not a problem but we could see that driving out in the same direction would be. The traffic backup in direction Rome went on for kilometers!!!
We had departed from the Rome apartment without having much breakfast so we were in urgent need of sustenance. Our first stop was at the cafeteria by the entrance.
- 1 pre-packaged Margarita Sandwich (like a pizza sub)
- 1 pre-packaged ‘Tasca’ Sandwich (cheese, ham and mushrooms)
- 2 caffe latte
- 1 coke
- 1 Kinder Egg
The sandwiches were warmed in the panini press and taste rather good. When DD saw the Kinder Eggs –a chocolate egg shell with a little toy inside- her eyes sparkled. For many years we brought back these for her whenever we went to Europe. She immediately wanted one. This particular egg did not have the chocolate shell, instead it had a truffle like ‘yolk’ of chocolate embedded in the ‘white’, made out of creamy white chocolate. She pronounced it better than the older version. It came with a silly key chain which is still attached to the outside of my handbag.
The entrance to the villa was 30E. We got some sort of reduction for DD but I did not write it down. We walked the steep hill up to the entrance and entered Hadrian’s realm.
In my book this place should not be considered a villa, not even an estate, this place must have been categorized as a mid-sized town!
We wandered around loosely following Michelin Green Guide Walk (Rick Steve’s barely mentions Villa Adriana). The place is amazing. I could not help but marvel at the sheer power the emperor must have yielded in order to gather the resources necessary to build an estate of this magnitude (and the Castel Sant’Angelo fortress, and…..)
Once again I must admit that the heat did us in. We managed to find the strength and determination to keep going for almost three hours but by the time we made it to the grotto we were rather exhausted and couldn’t care less which marvel of the ancient world we were looking at. It was time to quit.
I liked it enough to know that if in the future I had the opportunity on a cool day, I would like to return for a more comfortable visit - and finally make it to Villa D’Este as well! When we returned to the steaming hot parking, the car thermometer read 41ºC at 1:45PM. In May. I kid you not.
<b><i>Driving into the Umbrian hills</b></i>
I was still warming up into my navigator role and we made a few false turns over the next hour. This naturally consumed more time than we had estimated so we decided to hit the Autostrada from Terni to Todi (3.50E), where we had to go back to the smaller streets.
Whoever decides which road segment of the Michelin map gets highlighted as scenic has a deep appreciation of landscape. The drive from Bastardo to Gualdo Cattaneo was absolutely beautiful. The hills of Umbria are covered with vineyards and olive trees. They are a bit more rugged than their Tuscan counterparts but equally beautiful, if not more.
I was following driving instructions to Bevagna and missed the Gualdo Cattaneo sign so another short episode of driving around in a circle followed. Once back into the right road we saw the (small) sign for <b><i>Le Case Gialle</b></i> and went down the gravel path.
This small agroturismo is sourrounded by an olive plantation and has four individual apartments combined in two buildings. Stone walls, slated roofs, cozy little terraces covered with pergolas. It is picture perfect.
The property is beautifully maintained: the paths carefully kept, the bushes trimmed to the right height and the garden full of roses in bloom. Rosemary bushes perfumed the air.
Our apartment, Il Giardino, was on the top level of the first building. It had a very comfortable and spacious bedroom with a double bed (not singles pushed together). The kitchen and living area were combined but big enough to have a good-sized dinner table and a large sofa bed where DD was to sleep.
The bathroom was comfortable and had adequate counter space when including the wide window ledge. The shower had an unlimited supply of steaming hot water, yay! I have not quite figured out why, but as I have acquired birthdays this has become more and more important.
The owner apologized for the pool water being so hot. They still had on their solar heaters plugged into the water tap as heating is normally required in May. No problem. We are tropical people.
After we settled in we drove to Bevagna to get some breakfast and cocktail hour supplies. 23E and a large bag of groceries later we returned to the apartment. DH and I shared the large and deliciously cool peroni while we waited until dinner time.
<b><i>Montepulciano does not serve wine only</b></i>
The wine-Mecca of Montepulciano was the closest big(gest) town –consequently having the most dining options of the area. After consulting with the agro owner, Silvana, and my trusty Fodor’s recommendations we settled on L’Alchimista.
Personally I prefer to stay in the general location of where I will be having dinner. I am not the most confident driver and try to avoid it whenever I can. If I had been in charge of driving and choosing to eat out every night, Le Case Gialle would not have been a good option. Thankfully DH does not mind driving after dinner, on small roads, in the dark or any combination of these.
The drive from the agro to Montepulciano takes around 20 minutes. We had no trouble finding it but it was still daylight. I suspect that a first-timer could easily miss the turn in the dark.
We parked the car for 0.50E just outside the walls; it was only 20 minutes until 8:00PM when parking in that area became free. Montepulciano is hill town, so once we entered past the city gate we walked up, and up and up until we reached the piazza on top where <b><i>L’Alchimista</b></i> is located. Well, at least after dinner it would be all down hill.
This is what we had for dinner:
Primi
DH and DD – Lasagna Funghi; the clear winner of the night. Thin crepe-like sheets of pasta, cushioned in between with a layer of white sauce and mushrooms. The cheese top was deliciously caramelized. It was very light but still captured the essence of comfort food. DD considered ordering a second serving.
Me – Tagliatele in an asparagus and tomato sauce; very good but nowhere near the lasagna
Secondi
DH – Stew of beef and pork on a brown sauce; tasty and filling. The beef had a bit of gristle.
Me- Beef slices over a salad of arugula, pine nuts and pecorino; perfect for the still-warm evening. The salad was tossed with a light vinaigrette which went very well with the cheese.
1 bottle of rosso di Montepulciano, 2 café machiatti, 1 coke. 69E.
I think that the superb lasagna created such high expectations that the rest of the meal was a bit of an unjustified let down. The ambiance was a bit dry and touristy. I still gets a recommendation.
DD had a gelato (yogurt and pesca, 2E) on our way down. The drive back home did not seem awfully long but I was still sleepy by the time we parked back at the agro where we happily crashed into our beds.
Next: Snow mountains and planes. Lentils and Sausage on a sea of yellow flowers
-----------------
<b>Monday, May 25th - Day 6: Driving out of Rome, visiting Hadrian and the Green Hills of Umbria</b>
<b><i>Let’s get Out of Here! </b></i>
We woke up before the alarm went off. The owner was supposed to come by at 10:00 to pick up the keys but we were packed and ready to go by 9:00AM. She had given us instructions in case this happened so after writing her a letter explaining the situation with the stink in the small room but also stating how much we had enjoyed it otherwise, we left.
I cannot stress enough how well located this apartment is. After a short 3 minute walk we were by the Largo Argentina taxi stand.
We had walked past this area a few times and I was yet to see more than two or three cats. I don’t know if it was too hot and they were hiding in the shade or if something else had happened but we never saw them, even this day, still in the morning.
After an exciting/adrenaline-inducing taxi ride (16E) through the small streets of Rome we were safely delivered to the Hertz-Villa Borghese office. Now, I knew that this office was inside an underground parking, sort of knew general directions how to get there, we even might have eventually found it ourselves but certainly not in the first five tries.
We were 3 hours early from our reserved pick-up time but the car was ready. We handed out our papers and they did not even bat an eye over the ridiculously-low price at which we were renting (74E/wk). Credit cards were given and DH suddenly decided to add on a pre-purchased tank of DIESEL (we had recently had a hard time filling up a rental in Las Vegas before returning it at 4:00AM) for what we later noticed to be an additional 90E!
The guy asked us where we were heading and we said Tivoli. He proceeded to give us detailed driving directions. As we left the office he said that he hoped not to see us back in three hours after endlessly driving in circles around Rome. Something about the ways he said it made me be believe that this actually happens once in a while.
<i>Note to Rental Newbies: The rental agency will never ask for the International Driver’s License that they tell you is required to rent. They don’t care about it. The IDL is for the cops in case you get into an accident, so don’t think that you wasted $15 and precious time going to AAA to get it, just be thankful that no one ever had to ask you for it. </i>
We did a full inspection of the car, called the guy out to show him two bumps in the car (I took pictures while DH and him went over them) and he dutifully recorded them in the contract. After we had pressed every button, turned on the A/C, switched the lights on, adjusted seats and mirrors and played with the windshield wipers, we still had to call out the guy a second time. We could not figure out how to open and close the gas tank (it was in the same circuit as the door locks).
<i>Note to <b>Maitaitom</b>, if he is reading: You will be pleased to know that since a certain incident involving the dispensing of gasoline into a diesel car, rental agencies across Italy have placed stickers over the gas tank covers stating ‘Diesel Only’ in large, red lettering. You have done a great service to your fellow travelers! BTW, we did try the reverse gear before leaving the parkhouse.</i>
<b><i>Let’s get this party really started</b></i>
Let me give you some background on my navigation skills. I have a really good sense of direction. I can read maps very well. The only drawback is that I have a problem VERBALIZING left and right. I have found this to be very common among left-handed persons, believe me, I have asked!
Over the years, DH and I have devised a system of ‘this way’ and ‘that way’ which substitutes for what normal people simply call ‘left’ and ‘right’. We had not had a need to seriously navigate for some time and we were a bit out of practice.
We made it past the exit and two roundabouts before a gap in communication made us miss the correct street and we went down Via Veneto instead of the way leading to the highway. A stop for map consultation was made; we recalculated a course and proceeded to see some interesting residential areas of Rome which had previously not been on The Plan.
Once we found our way back to the main avenue we had previously missed, we had no problems following the rest of the directions given to us by the friendly Hertz guy. After all, he would not have to see us coming back to his office in shame!
<b><i>The Plan for Today</b></i>
The plan was short and concise. We would drive from Rome to Tivoli in order to visit Villa Adriana (Villa D’Este is closed on Mondays) and then, make our way to Case Gialle (Gualdo Cattaneo, Perugia) through a combination of country roads, freeways and high ways which would be selected totally depending on available time. Our target was to be at the agro by 4:00PM.
<b><i>Let’s talk about maps for a moment</b></i>
Our main tool for the next week of driving was the Michelin Map of Tuscany and Umbria. I had studied it for endless hours before departure, highlighted the preferred routes, stuck endless post-it notes over it and finally got it folded in the perfect pattern that would allow me to open it like a boot to see all the area of Umbria on two ‘pages’ and the same for Tuscany. This is something that will be appreciated only by someone that has had to fully open a huge map over the dashboard of a moving car.
I had debated whether to get the more detailed Touring Club Italiano maps recommended by Stu and in hindsight, I should have. We really did not get lost at anytime over the next week but we mistook some streets because of lack of detail in the Michelin map. Once we were given a portion of the TCI map in Pienza, we realized that it would have been a good investment.
The secondary tool was the driving directions I had printed from www.viamichelin.com for all the driving routes that we would follow during the trip. I found them to be somewhat useful but the full map was better.
I should elaborate some more on this for the benefit Rental Newbies. Driving in Italy is an exercise on geography. Signage based on road numbers is very, very sparse and often confusing to the point where it is basically useless (unless you are on or searching for the Autostrada). All road signage show first the next town that you will come into if you follow that road followed by the next big town that the road will eventually hit. The same street over a single kilometer can easily be identified with three different road numbers.
Successfully navigation requires that you have a very good idea of where you are, the upcoming town and the basic geographic location of the bigger towns or cities in the area relative to your location, as these names will substitute for North, East, South and West.
I found that the Michelin driving directions were accurate but it was hard to confirm if we were indeed in the right place. Yes, we could have gotten ourselves a GPS but it would not have been as fun.
<b><i>When does a Villa turn into a Small Town?</b></i>
It took us close to an hour to reach Tivoli (counting the wrong turn in Rome) and another 15 fifteen to get to the parking of <b><i>Villa Adriana</b></i>. The driving in was not a problem but we could see that driving out in the same direction would be. The traffic backup in direction Rome went on for kilometers!!!
We had departed from the Rome apartment without having much breakfast so we were in urgent need of sustenance. Our first stop was at the cafeteria by the entrance.
- 1 pre-packaged Margarita Sandwich (like a pizza sub)
- 1 pre-packaged ‘Tasca’ Sandwich (cheese, ham and mushrooms)
- 2 caffe latte
- 1 coke
- 1 Kinder Egg
The sandwiches were warmed in the panini press and taste rather good. When DD saw the Kinder Eggs –a chocolate egg shell with a little toy inside- her eyes sparkled. For many years we brought back these for her whenever we went to Europe. She immediately wanted one. This particular egg did not have the chocolate shell, instead it had a truffle like ‘yolk’ of chocolate embedded in the ‘white’, made out of creamy white chocolate. She pronounced it better than the older version. It came with a silly key chain which is still attached to the outside of my handbag.
The entrance to the villa was 30E. We got some sort of reduction for DD but I did not write it down. We walked the steep hill up to the entrance and entered Hadrian’s realm.
In my book this place should not be considered a villa, not even an estate, this place must have been categorized as a mid-sized town!
We wandered around loosely following Michelin Green Guide Walk (Rick Steve’s barely mentions Villa Adriana). The place is amazing. I could not help but marvel at the sheer power the emperor must have yielded in order to gather the resources necessary to build an estate of this magnitude (and the Castel Sant’Angelo fortress, and…..)
Once again I must admit that the heat did us in. We managed to find the strength and determination to keep going for almost three hours but by the time we made it to the grotto we were rather exhausted and couldn’t care less which marvel of the ancient world we were looking at. It was time to quit.
I liked it enough to know that if in the future I had the opportunity on a cool day, I would like to return for a more comfortable visit - and finally make it to Villa D’Este as well! When we returned to the steaming hot parking, the car thermometer read 41ºC at 1:45PM. In May. I kid you not.
<b><i>Driving into the Umbrian hills</b></i>
I was still warming up into my navigator role and we made a few false turns over the next hour. This naturally consumed more time than we had estimated so we decided to hit the Autostrada from Terni to Todi (3.50E), where we had to go back to the smaller streets.
Whoever decides which road segment of the Michelin map gets highlighted as scenic has a deep appreciation of landscape. The drive from Bastardo to Gualdo Cattaneo was absolutely beautiful. The hills of Umbria are covered with vineyards and olive trees. They are a bit more rugged than their Tuscan counterparts but equally beautiful, if not more.
I was following driving instructions to Bevagna and missed the Gualdo Cattaneo sign so another short episode of driving around in a circle followed. Once back into the right road we saw the (small) sign for <b><i>Le Case Gialle</b></i> and went down the gravel path.
This small agroturismo is sourrounded by an olive plantation and has four individual apartments combined in two buildings. Stone walls, slated roofs, cozy little terraces covered with pergolas. It is picture perfect.
The property is beautifully maintained: the paths carefully kept, the bushes trimmed to the right height and the garden full of roses in bloom. Rosemary bushes perfumed the air.
Our apartment, Il Giardino, was on the top level of the first building. It had a very comfortable and spacious bedroom with a double bed (not singles pushed together). The kitchen and living area were combined but big enough to have a good-sized dinner table and a large sofa bed where DD was to sleep.
The bathroom was comfortable and had adequate counter space when including the wide window ledge. The shower had an unlimited supply of steaming hot water, yay! I have not quite figured out why, but as I have acquired birthdays this has become more and more important.
The owner apologized for the pool water being so hot. They still had on their solar heaters plugged into the water tap as heating is normally required in May. No problem. We are tropical people.
After we settled in we drove to Bevagna to get some breakfast and cocktail hour supplies. 23E and a large bag of groceries later we returned to the apartment. DH and I shared the large and deliciously cool peroni while we waited until dinner time.
<b><i>Montepulciano does not serve wine only</b></i>
The wine-Mecca of Montepulciano was the closest big(gest) town –consequently having the most dining options of the area. After consulting with the agro owner, Silvana, and my trusty Fodor’s recommendations we settled on L’Alchimista.
Personally I prefer to stay in the general location of where I will be having dinner. I am not the most confident driver and try to avoid it whenever I can. If I had been in charge of driving and choosing to eat out every night, Le Case Gialle would not have been a good option. Thankfully DH does not mind driving after dinner, on small roads, in the dark or any combination of these.
The drive from the agro to Montepulciano takes around 20 minutes. We had no trouble finding it but it was still daylight. I suspect that a first-timer could easily miss the turn in the dark.
We parked the car for 0.50E just outside the walls; it was only 20 minutes until 8:00PM when parking in that area became free. Montepulciano is hill town, so once we entered past the city gate we walked up, and up and up until we reached the piazza on top where <b><i>L’Alchimista</b></i> is located. Well, at least after dinner it would be all down hill.
This is what we had for dinner:
Primi
DH and DD – Lasagna Funghi; the clear winner of the night. Thin crepe-like sheets of pasta, cushioned in between with a layer of white sauce and mushrooms. The cheese top was deliciously caramelized. It was very light but still captured the essence of comfort food. DD considered ordering a second serving.
Me – Tagliatele in an asparagus and tomato sauce; very good but nowhere near the lasagna
Secondi
DH – Stew of beef and pork on a brown sauce; tasty and filling. The beef had a bit of gristle.
Me- Beef slices over a salad of arugula, pine nuts and pecorino; perfect for the still-warm evening. The salad was tossed with a light vinaigrette which went very well with the cheese.
1 bottle of rosso di Montepulciano, 2 café machiatti, 1 coke. 69E.
I think that the superb lasagna created such high expectations that the rest of the meal was a bit of an unjustified let down. The ambiance was a bit dry and touristy. I still gets a recommendation.
DD had a gelato (yogurt and pesca, 2E) on our way down. The drive back home did not seem awfully long but I was still sleepy by the time we parked back at the agro where we happily crashed into our beds.
Next: Snow mountains and planes. Lentils and Sausage on a sea of yellow flowers
Jun 18th, 2009, 01:37 PM
#64
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You were so right to take a cab to the car rental place near the villa borghese! Last year we went by bus and wandered around, looking for the entrance, for what felt like <i>hours</i>.
Of course, we promptly made a wrong turn as we left and got lost on the way to the autostrada. I'm not even sure a better map would have helped; it's very confusing.
I too have left/right problems. Even though I <i>know</i> the right answer, often the opposite comes out of my mouth.
Of course, we promptly made a wrong turn as we left and got lost on the way to the autostrada. I'm not even sure a better map would have helped; it's very confusing.
I too have left/right problems. Even though I <i>know</i> the right answer, often the opposite comes out of my mouth.
Jun 18th, 2009, 02:56 PM
#66
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Marigross,
My friend has problems with left & right - she says up(left) or down(right) when giving instructions. 74 euros is an amazing deal for a week - was it a promotion or just a computer error?
I really appreciate all the information you are giving regarding renting a car in Italy, and how to read the road signs - really great information for those of us who have never driven there, but hope to one day.
I agree about the viamichelin site - I printed out directions from the site, and I really feel the AA site did a better job with instructions.
My friend has problems with left & right - she says up(left) or down(right) when giving instructions. 74 euros is an amazing deal for a week - was it a promotion or just a computer error?
I really appreciate all the information you are giving regarding renting a car in Italy, and how to read the road signs - really great information for those of us who have never driven there, but hope to one day.
I agree about the viamichelin site - I printed out directions from the site, and I really feel the AA site did a better job with instructions.
Jun 18th, 2009, 06:26 PM
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Marigross...
Looks like I'm in good company with being directionally challenged myself. Like you I have a great sense of direction and I'm terrific with maps...but once I have to say right or left I end up blurting out "this way" or "that way"...I have to be really mindful when being the navigator!
Looks like I'm in good company with being directionally challenged myself. Like you I have a great sense of direction and I'm terrific with maps...but once I have to say right or left I end up blurting out "this way" or "that way"...I have to be really mindful when being the navigator!
Jun 19th, 2009, 03:10 AM
#69
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<b>BIG CORRECTION!</b>
Zerlina, you are absolutely correct!!! Thanks for kicking my brain into gear. Maybe I need a break from writing.
All references I have made so far to Montepulciano are <u>mistaken>/u>, they should all read <b>MONTEFALCO</b>!!!! L'Alchimista and El Coccorone are both in Montefalco.
Montefalco is on the Sagrantino road. The wine we had at L'Alchimista was the house rosso made with Sagrantino grapes.
<b><u>My apologies for the confusion!</b></u>
Zerlina, you are absolutely correct!!! Thanks for kicking my brain into gear. Maybe I need a break from writing.
All references I have made so far to Montepulciano are <u>mistaken>/u>, they should all read <b>MONTEFALCO</b>!!!! L'Alchimista and El Coccorone are both in Montefalco.
Montefalco is on the Sagrantino road. The wine we had at L'Alchimista was the house rosso made with Sagrantino grapes.
<b><u>My apologies for the confusion!</b></u>
Jun 19th, 2009, 12:12 PM
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Marigross, I am really enjoying your trip report. Le Case Gialle was on my short list of accommodations for a trip to Italy a few years ago, and remains on my short list for any future trips, so I'm always interested in hearing about it. We LOVED Pienza and the whole Crete Senese area of Tuscany, so I can't wait for that part of your report!
Also, I'm so glad to find out that another person who has a great sense of direction and is an excellent map reader and navigator can't verbalize "left" and "right" either ... I didn't know anyone else like that ... my extended family all think it's bizarre, and I'm a bit of a family joke in that regard, so I'm very happy to hear I'm not alone. (And I'm the only lefty, so it is interesting to hear there may be a connection there). My husband and I also use "this way" and "that way", usually accompanied by gesturing with the applicable hand (mainly unconscious, since I talk with my hands a lot anyway), so it probably helps that he has good peripheral vision!
Also, I'm so glad to find out that another person who has a great sense of direction and is an excellent map reader and navigator can't verbalize "left" and "right" either ... I didn't know anyone else like that ... my extended family all think it's bizarre, and I'm a bit of a family joke in that regard, so I'm very happy to hear I'm not alone. (And I'm the only lefty, so it is interesting to hear there may be a connection there). My husband and I also use "this way" and "that way", usually accompanied by gesturing with the applicable hand (mainly unconscious, since I talk with my hands a lot anyway), so it probably helps that he has good peripheral vision!
Jun 19th, 2009, 12:28 PM
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Oh, and we've used various combinations of all the guide books you listed, as well as Rough Guides, and we really like the RS guidebooks ... I'm even going to out myself and admit (in spite of the RS bashing on this board) that his guidebooks are, in general, my favourite for organization, ease of use, and the self-guided "walks". They're not for everyone, but they work for us!
Jun 20th, 2009, 04:40 AM
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Once again, thanks for the continued support! I feel very honored.
I planned at least 95% of this trip reading Trip Reports. To see responses from some of the authors that indirectly helped me by posting their stories is extra special. The wealth of information (and entertainment) to be found within this forum is inexhaustible. I hope to pay some of that debt off.
Kristina, we indeed considered taking the bus to pick up the car. I only desisted because of the horror stories I had read about the Borghese parkhouse. On paper and online it deceptively looked simple enough.
I'll try to post some more in the afternoon.
I planned at least 95% of this trip reading Trip Reports. To see responses from some of the authors that indirectly helped me by posting their stories is extra special. The wealth of information (and entertainment) to be found within this forum is inexhaustible. I hope to pay some of that debt off.
Kristina, we indeed considered taking the bus to pick up the car. I only desisted because of the horror stories I had read about the Borghese parkhouse. On paper and online it deceptively looked simple enough.
I'll try to post some more in the afternoon.
Jun 20th, 2009, 01:39 PM
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<blue>Correction: All previous references to <u>Montepulciano</u> are incorrect. I should have referred to <b><u>MONTEFALCO</u></b>. The first is in Tuscany and will be addressed further along the story and the latter is in Umbria, where the plot is currently unfolding. </blue>
<b>Tuesday, May 26th - Day 7: The lentils and plains have to wait one more day because we have to go visit Francis first</b>
After sleeping beautifully for almost 10 uninterrupted hours (if you don’t count the couple of seconds it took us to go back to sleep the first few times the donkey brayed and the rooster sang) we were ready to have a slow, luxurious breakfast.
The agro delivers every morning a fresh loaf of bread and a newspaper in the language requested (depending on availability). A little flask of olive oil and a small jar of honey are also left in the apartment as a welcoming gift.
This was the morning in which I rediscovered the absolutely wonderful pairing of honey and cheese. Why had I forgotten this? Perhaps because previously I didn’t had not had this golden nectar that popped out the peppery taste of the cheese. The prosciutto was paper-thin, the salami bursting with flavor. The coffee was half decent as there was a manual coffee pot in the kitchen, humongous improvement from our Roman Turkish-coffee.
We sat outside in the little balcony/terrace of the apartment and enjoyed the peaceful view over the olive trees and into the Umbrian hills. I will only say that we sat at the breakfast table for over an hour and a half.
Once our stomachs refused to accept any more food, we gave up and got ready to go on the first real sojourn into Umbria.
<b><i>The Plan </b></i>
The itinerary for today was not (too) complicated:
1. Visit Spello; estimated duration: 1hr
2. Visit Assisi; estimated duration: 2hrs depending on the difficulty of finding parking (we had been there before but the upper basilica was still closed so this was the one thing I on my must-do list)
3. Perhaps spend the afternoon in Perugia. I was still debating on whether to go to or not. I had not committed. There were lots of pros and cons in my mind. But mostly I thought that it deserved an entire day and I had my schedule full of other must-do’s.
* The driving route between Spello and Assisi was to be established once the Perugia decision was made.
<b><i>Let’s go see why Tom raves about this little town</b></i>
We drove out Gualdo Cattaneo, past Bevagna, onto Foligno (S 316) until we reached our first destination of the day, the small town of <b><i>Spello</b></i>. We easily found parking along the walls, close to the gate. I was somewhat surprised to see signs directing to a Tourist Information Office. Hummm. These people were organized! Is this going to be a tourist trap?
The very help-helpful TI lady loaded us up with maps and brochures. Then she offered us a Spello Museum Card. ‘A what?!?!?’ my inner-planner alter ego shouted. This was supposed to be a small town, I would have been surprised to see that they had a museum worthy of paying an entrance fee; but now they have a <i>Museum Card</i>??? The fear of being –gasp- Unprepared rapidly rose.
Now, Spello is only briefly mentioned (as in a single paragraph) in the RS Italy book and for some dumb reason (well, penny-pinching if I’m honest) I never bought the Green Guide to Umbria, so aside from Maitaitom’s Vino report , I did not know very much about the town. There was nothing to do about it now so we walked into the town with a heightened sense of discovery.
Maybe it was because Spello was the first real hill town of the trip, perhaps it was because the temperature was still cool in the morning or just because we were enjoying being out of the city and in the countryside, but we all found the town to be downright gorgeous. The cherry on top was that they were holding the annual Entrance and Window Decoration competition, so the town was loaded with flowers from top to bottom.
The inherent beauty of the place I had fully expected. What completely surprised me was that the town had so much to offer art-wise. Thankfully I will peep into any church that I walk by; otherwise I would have missed out big time. And that was without going into any of the places covered by the Museum Card.
Our first stop was beautiful <b><i>Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore</b></i>. Once inside I was astonished to walk into two beautiful side-altar pieces by none other than Perugino, Raphael’s mentor. Only to be knocked-out-of –my-socks a couple of minutes later to see Pinturicchio’s masterful Life of the Virgin cycle in the chapel. The frescoes had been renovated and could be illuminated with the typical coin-operated switch. WOW!
Time to educate DD on the Cuatroccento Renaissance (clink, .50E), the basic technical concepts of fresco-making (clink, .50E) and the challenges of manufacturing paint and dyes in the 15th century (clink, .50E).
The rest of the church is rather neat too, it has very nice woodwork in the sacristy and chapter room and there is an interesting chapel dedicated to the Loretto virgin in which sculpted angels carry the virgin’s house on their winged backs.
<b><i>Spello has more than one church?<i></b>
Our stroll through Spello continued (can you actually stroll uphill?) when much to my surprise there was another big church. Surely it would be a small, unimportant one, right? Well, <b><i>Chiesa di San Andrea</b></i> is not tiny by any means and certainly not unimportant.
This church was consecrated in 1258 and is a little dark when compared to later Italian Renaissance and High Gothic churches but once the eyes adapted, WOW! The walls were beautifully frescoed, the altar was graced with a crucifix painted in the style of Giotto. There were some paintings by Pinturichio and Dono Doni.
The beauty of the church really came to life when someone went and got the priest to turn the lights on. Double Wow!
At that point I looked at the map we had gotten at the TI and counted 16 churches among the 30 places of interest listed. And RS says in his single paragraph dedicated to Spello that this is a town recommended for die-hard hill town fans? Well, count me in.
<b><i>Spinning the ATM roulette</b>
When we finally reemerged from the church we continued our walk along the florid main street. We passed by the Piazza della Republica and saw a sign for ATM. We were in need of cash so we went for it. I prefer to use ATMs that are attached to banks during the hours in which they are open. If the card gets eaten you have the option of going in and getting it back. What can I tell you? It has happened and it has happened to me.
Once I was in Paris, on my first truly solo trip, when I was almost reduced to tears over my inability to get some cash, but that’s another trip report. Experiences like that leave you scarred.
First try was for 400E it was unsuccessful because it put us over the $500 daily withdrawal limit established by our bank. Second try was for 300E, it should have worked but didn’t. Third try using the fast-cash option (instead of entering the amount) for 250E worked. We then hit a different account to get a total of 500E.
I had been wondering if our regular ATMs would work or if we would need to use the ‘International’ cards (the ones with the Visa logo) that the bank had given us. They worked without problems throughout the trip and the backup cards remained in the money belts.
<b><i>Should we talk a little about Money Belts?</i></b>
There have been trips in which I have worn money belts and others in which I didn’t. Most of the times when I have worn them are not for fear of being robbed, but to ensure that I don’t lose important things. I’m not the most absent-minded person but in a moment of distraction credit cards get left behind, wallets fall from the day pack and handbags stay in cabs. I don’t need to spend precious vacation time trying to replace lost documents or cards.
On this particular trip we opted for money belts because we would initially be transporting a substantial amount of cash to pay the apartment. Second, we would be ridding on trains and buses with our luggage, times in which there would be a lot of things to pay attention to.
In my wallet I carry copies of passports, a single credit card, an ATM, my driver’s license as ID and not more than 150E. If anyway require a place to store passports, backup credit card and ATMs and a stash of cash, so why not a money belt? Aside from the days in which we moved around with our luggage (and one more location) the money belt stayed tucked away in my luggage.
The one I wore was bought at Brookstone and its very light but sturdy, lays very flat against the body and the straps are stretchable (like bra straps). I liked it very much and will use it again in the future if needed. DH has a custom-made one from his backpacking days.
BTW, looking at the credit card bills that have started to arrive, we made out significantly better with cash than with plastic. So I see an increase in cash-transactions for us in future trips.
<b><i>Back to the subject, singing the praises of Spello</i></b>
I decided to forget about visiting Perugia and continued to follow the walk recommended on the freebie map. We wandered (backtracking a lot) through the little streets. Drop-dead, picture-perfect, gorgeous views of the countryside, the old roman walls and little alleys were observed from almost any point along the perimeter. The view is particularly spectacular from the <b><i>Belvedere Panoramico</b></i> in front of <b><i>Chiesa di San Severino</b></i>.
The temperature was going up and it was already 2:30 PM! We had spent almost four hours in what I thought would be a less-than-an-hour stop. And we had not even scratched the surface. If the Upper Basilica in Assisi had not been on my absolutely-must-do list, I would have happily spent the rest of the day in Spello.
When I think about how I would redo this trip if I had a chance, I would stay in Spello instead of Gualdo Cattaneo. It would have made sense logistically considering the two drives we had planned and it would have given us the opportunity to do some more exploring in town. OTOH, Le Casa Gialle was really, really nice. I guess you can’t have it all. There is always next time.
I picked up a coke and a really scrumptious rice and cheese croquette (1.90E) from a no-name bar for DD and we were off to our next destination, visiting Francis.
<b><i>Up, up and up inside a cloud of gravel dust</i></b>
Once the Perugia side trip was eliminated from The Plan, we were free to take the scenic road to Assisi.
We exited Spello in direction Collepino. After a few kilometers the paved road turned to well-maintained gravel as we approached the <b><i>Monte Subiaso</i></b> reserve area. They are actually in the process of building curbs along the road and I’m sure that by next year it will be fully paved.
Initially it was a bit disappointing because we drove through planted forests and there were no views to be had. But I had faith in the guys that mark in scenic-green the Michelin maps and finally the road opened into meadows. What happened? We cannot be above the tree line, its only 1290m elevation! But there it was, unobstructed views of the Umbrian countryside, the blades of grass rippling in the wind and the car thermometer finally showing a reading below 30ºC, it went down to 28ºC.
After driving past all kinds of telecommunication antennas we were confronted with the obvious fact that what goes up must come down. And down, and down we went. I thought that there were more switchbacks along the descent towards Assisi than the ascent from Spello. If I was driving, I would have preferred to have done it in the reverse direction. For some stupid reason I am more comfortable in driving and hiking going up than down.
Suddenly, in what seemed to us to be the middle of nowhere, there was a long line of taxis. After the next switchback we saw that we were by the <b><i>Eramo delle Carcere / Hermitage</b></i> when we saw a throng of people gathered around a gated entrance. This is the place where St. Francis and his followers retreated into solitude.
Since we were not in a spiritual pilgrimage, we did not stop and continued another 10-15 minutes until we saw lots of cars parked at the side of the road and the <b><i>Porta Capuccini</b></i> gate into Assisi perhaps 500m ahead. We found a spot and parked. The car thermometer was back up to 35ºC at the time.
DD slept all the way from Spello to Assisi. Once we parked and woke her up I told her that she would regret all these naps when she grows up. I never thought that the following day I was encouraging her to fall asleep, but that was still in the future.
<b><i>Have I really been here before?</i></b>
My main goal was to reach the Upper Basilica which was exactly at the opposite end of town. We walked down towards <b><i>Piazza Matteoti</i></b> and continued down to the Piazza Comune. We were in need of refreshments and bathrooms so we plunked down at an available table in restaurant. This was the first and only truly yucky bathroom of the entire trip. DD decided to hold it (isn’t it grand to be young and have a strong bladder?!?!?) but I had no choice. DD decided she did not want to eat anything after all (that 1.5-hr long breakfast could also have had something to do it).
We were still thirsty and undecided about what to drink when I had a flash of inspiration. I told DH ‘I know exactly what I want to drink. Remember those half-and-half’s we have in Spain?’ (Half beer and half lemon soda). A quick inquiry with the waitress resulted in an ‘Of course, a mezza-mezza’. It was very cold, perfect for the weather.
DH insisted that we had been in this part of town before but I could not find within my brain a single memory of this Piazza or of our next destination, the <b><i> Temple of Minerva</i></b>. This is an ancient roman temple that has undergone multiple recappings as a Catholic church. Interesting but not worth a detour.
<b><i>Let’s stop moseying around, Francis is waiting!</i></b>
Even though I’m non-practicing, I’m Catholic born and raised. I would –if forced- define myself as mostly Buddhist, a little New Age and a splash of Wiccan. But regardless of my views of the church, I will always have a soft spot for St. Francis.
We finally reached the Upper basilica and I was shocked when both DD and I were pulled aside by the dress-code police. I had specifically dressed this day with modesty in mind. I was wearing a skirt (well below the knee) and a loose blouse with a square neck front and back. Well, apparently the back was too low-cut. I swear it was not more than 6-inches from my neck. DD was also wearing a skirt and an overshirt which was deeply cut in the back but she had a tube top underneath so the net result of exposed skin was possibly less than mine.
We were handed square, silk-like scarves printed with commemorative logos of big Catholic youth encounters to wear over our indecently exposed backs. I guess you win some and lose some. The scarves turned out to be ours to keep. Maybe they were just trying to get rid of them.
The Upper Basilica was everything I expected it to be. You can pick up any art book and read better descriptions than those that I can give. It is a true Gothic church, light and spacious, designed to awe. And Giotto’s Life of St. Francis cycle…wow. I found RS’s descriptions very easy to read and follow. DD asked endless questions, about Francis, the church, The Church, life in the middle ages….
We went down to the Lower Basilica to admire once again the frescoes. As much as I admire Gothic, Romanesque buildings are always appealing to me. I find the Lower church to be more intimate, built on a more human scale.
Of all the religious spots where I have been, the crypt holding Francis tomb is the only one that feels like truly, really hallowed ground to me. A place where the faith of millions is poured into. It’s the one place where I <i>want</i> to bend down on my knees and pray.
As I walked around the crypt and saw all the baby announcements posted as ex-votos I was ready to burst into tears. When I saw all the pictures crammed through the grill onto the tomb, the tears really started. I could not help but imagine the story of each picture, who they were, why they needed prayers, who brought the photo. Sick children, teens fallen prey to vices, soldiers gone to war, daughters gone missing.
<b><i>It’s time to go back</i></b>
After the visit was completed we went to the bathrooms by the lower piazza, (0.30E) pp and then it was time to haul ourselves all the way back to the car. We made it but it was not fun. DD and I had some gelato along the way to try to muster some energy (caramelo/straticcella forDD and nocciole for me, 4.90E).
The car thermometer registered 39ºC and the water we had left in there was only fit for tea. Close to an hour later we were sitting by the pool at Le Case Gialle, enjoying some cheap Sangiovese that DH had bought the day before and pleasantly chatting with some other guests.
<b><i>A very fine and refined meal in MONTEFALCO </i></b>
Our dinning destination for the evening was <b><i>Coccorone</b></i>. I had read good reviews and was also recommended by the agro. We drove to Montefalco, again parked for 0.30E. There were only ten minutes left until parking was free at 8:00PM but that was the minimum time and the cop was hanging around close by.
The restaurant is upstairs and has a terrace that even if does not have a view, is very cozy and inviting. We had a good feel about this place. The meal started with a round of prosecco, always a good thing in my view and immediately after ordering we were presented with an amouse bouche, the signs kept getting better and better. This is what we ate:
Amouse Bouche: Pork Sausage/Paté drizzled with an orange and vinegar reduction and dusted with orange zest. I’m not particularly fond of fruits in food but this was delicate and did not overpower the pork. It was good and the expectations kept getting higher.
Primi:
DD and DH: Porcini Rissotto for 2. It was deliciously al dente, creamy and perfectly seasoned. This was a refined and subtlety flavored dish.
Me: Funghi Crepes. They were really good but not nearly close to the ones had the previous evening at L’Alchimista.
Secondi:
DD and DH: Agnello Scottadi (Lamb Steak). Deliciously flavored.
Me: Arrosto Misto (Mixed Grill). It had a little bit of everything. Leg of lamb, pork, sausage, ribs. Olive oil had been drizzled over the plate. It was delicious and I wish I could have it right now.
Contorni:
Mixed Salad
Carciofi Arrosto (Grilled artichokes)
1l house wine, 2l water, 2 coffees. 87 well-deserved Euros (9E coperto).
When we ordered the risotto the waiter told us it would be over 30 minute wait for it, we said no problem. He interrupted the order-taking to tell the kitchen to get it going. It saved at least five minutes of waiting and the dish presented was certainly worth the wait.
I ordered coniglio (rabbit) but they did not have it. I hate it when that happens but know that Tuesdays are not the best days for restaurant eating so I was willing to let it go by without a second thought.
I could have eaten a second time in this restaurant but the following evening we were too tired for a big meal. We slowly rolled down the hill back to the car and drove back to Gualdo Cattaneo .
We went down by the pool to enjoy the night sky and the lightning bugs all around us. After about half-an-hour we began nodding off and returned to the apartment for a good night sleep.
<b>Next: The Scenic Drive that would not end.</b>
<b>Tuesday, May 26th - Day 7: The lentils and plains have to wait one more day because we have to go visit Francis first</b>
After sleeping beautifully for almost 10 uninterrupted hours (if you don’t count the couple of seconds it took us to go back to sleep the first few times the donkey brayed and the rooster sang) we were ready to have a slow, luxurious breakfast.
The agro delivers every morning a fresh loaf of bread and a newspaper in the language requested (depending on availability). A little flask of olive oil and a small jar of honey are also left in the apartment as a welcoming gift.
This was the morning in which I rediscovered the absolutely wonderful pairing of honey and cheese. Why had I forgotten this? Perhaps because previously I didn’t had not had this golden nectar that popped out the peppery taste of the cheese. The prosciutto was paper-thin, the salami bursting with flavor. The coffee was half decent as there was a manual coffee pot in the kitchen, humongous improvement from our Roman Turkish-coffee.
We sat outside in the little balcony/terrace of the apartment and enjoyed the peaceful view over the olive trees and into the Umbrian hills. I will only say that we sat at the breakfast table for over an hour and a half.
Once our stomachs refused to accept any more food, we gave up and got ready to go on the first real sojourn into Umbria.
<b><i>The Plan </b></i>
The itinerary for today was not (too) complicated:
1. Visit Spello; estimated duration: 1hr
2. Visit Assisi; estimated duration: 2hrs depending on the difficulty of finding parking (we had been there before but the upper basilica was still closed so this was the one thing I on my must-do list)
3. Perhaps spend the afternoon in Perugia. I was still debating on whether to go to or not. I had not committed. There were lots of pros and cons in my mind. But mostly I thought that it deserved an entire day and I had my schedule full of other must-do’s.
* The driving route between Spello and Assisi was to be established once the Perugia decision was made.
<b><i>Let’s go see why Tom raves about this little town</b></i>
We drove out Gualdo Cattaneo, past Bevagna, onto Foligno (S 316) until we reached our first destination of the day, the small town of <b><i>Spello</b></i>. We easily found parking along the walls, close to the gate. I was somewhat surprised to see signs directing to a Tourist Information Office. Hummm. These people were organized! Is this going to be a tourist trap?
The very help-helpful TI lady loaded us up with maps and brochures. Then she offered us a Spello Museum Card. ‘A what?!?!?’ my inner-planner alter ego shouted. This was supposed to be a small town, I would have been surprised to see that they had a museum worthy of paying an entrance fee; but now they have a <i>Museum Card</i>??? The fear of being –gasp- Unprepared rapidly rose.
Now, Spello is only briefly mentioned (as in a single paragraph) in the RS Italy book and for some dumb reason (well, penny-pinching if I’m honest) I never bought the Green Guide to Umbria, so aside from Maitaitom’s Vino report , I did not know very much about the town. There was nothing to do about it now so we walked into the town with a heightened sense of discovery.
Maybe it was because Spello was the first real hill town of the trip, perhaps it was because the temperature was still cool in the morning or just because we were enjoying being out of the city and in the countryside, but we all found the town to be downright gorgeous. The cherry on top was that they were holding the annual Entrance and Window Decoration competition, so the town was loaded with flowers from top to bottom.
The inherent beauty of the place I had fully expected. What completely surprised me was that the town had so much to offer art-wise. Thankfully I will peep into any church that I walk by; otherwise I would have missed out big time. And that was without going into any of the places covered by the Museum Card.
Our first stop was beautiful <b><i>Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore</b></i>. Once inside I was astonished to walk into two beautiful side-altar pieces by none other than Perugino, Raphael’s mentor. Only to be knocked-out-of –my-socks a couple of minutes later to see Pinturicchio’s masterful Life of the Virgin cycle in the chapel. The frescoes had been renovated and could be illuminated with the typical coin-operated switch. WOW!
Time to educate DD on the Cuatroccento Renaissance (clink, .50E), the basic technical concepts of fresco-making (clink, .50E) and the challenges of manufacturing paint and dyes in the 15th century (clink, .50E).
The rest of the church is rather neat too, it has very nice woodwork in the sacristy and chapter room and there is an interesting chapel dedicated to the Loretto virgin in which sculpted angels carry the virgin’s house on their winged backs.
<b><i>Spello has more than one church?<i></b>
Our stroll through Spello continued (can you actually stroll uphill?) when much to my surprise there was another big church. Surely it would be a small, unimportant one, right? Well, <b><i>Chiesa di San Andrea</b></i> is not tiny by any means and certainly not unimportant.
This church was consecrated in 1258 and is a little dark when compared to later Italian Renaissance and High Gothic churches but once the eyes adapted, WOW! The walls were beautifully frescoed, the altar was graced with a crucifix painted in the style of Giotto. There were some paintings by Pinturichio and Dono Doni.
The beauty of the church really came to life when someone went and got the priest to turn the lights on. Double Wow!
At that point I looked at the map we had gotten at the TI and counted 16 churches among the 30 places of interest listed. And RS says in his single paragraph dedicated to Spello that this is a town recommended for die-hard hill town fans? Well, count me in.
<b><i>Spinning the ATM roulette</b>
When we finally reemerged from the church we continued our walk along the florid main street. We passed by the Piazza della Republica and saw a sign for ATM. We were in need of cash so we went for it. I prefer to use ATMs that are attached to banks during the hours in which they are open. If the card gets eaten you have the option of going in and getting it back. What can I tell you? It has happened and it has happened to me.
Once I was in Paris, on my first truly solo trip, when I was almost reduced to tears over my inability to get some cash, but that’s another trip report. Experiences like that leave you scarred.
First try was for 400E it was unsuccessful because it put us over the $500 daily withdrawal limit established by our bank. Second try was for 300E, it should have worked but didn’t. Third try using the fast-cash option (instead of entering the amount) for 250E worked. We then hit a different account to get a total of 500E.
I had been wondering if our regular ATMs would work or if we would need to use the ‘International’ cards (the ones with the Visa logo) that the bank had given us. They worked without problems throughout the trip and the backup cards remained in the money belts.
<b><i>Should we talk a little about Money Belts?</i></b>
There have been trips in which I have worn money belts and others in which I didn’t. Most of the times when I have worn them are not for fear of being robbed, but to ensure that I don’t lose important things. I’m not the most absent-minded person but in a moment of distraction credit cards get left behind, wallets fall from the day pack and handbags stay in cabs. I don’t need to spend precious vacation time trying to replace lost documents or cards.
On this particular trip we opted for money belts because we would initially be transporting a substantial amount of cash to pay the apartment. Second, we would be ridding on trains and buses with our luggage, times in which there would be a lot of things to pay attention to.
In my wallet I carry copies of passports, a single credit card, an ATM, my driver’s license as ID and not more than 150E. If anyway require a place to store passports, backup credit card and ATMs and a stash of cash, so why not a money belt? Aside from the days in which we moved around with our luggage (and one more location) the money belt stayed tucked away in my luggage.
The one I wore was bought at Brookstone and its very light but sturdy, lays very flat against the body and the straps are stretchable (like bra straps). I liked it very much and will use it again in the future if needed. DH has a custom-made one from his backpacking days.
BTW, looking at the credit card bills that have started to arrive, we made out significantly better with cash than with plastic. So I see an increase in cash-transactions for us in future trips.
<b><i>Back to the subject, singing the praises of Spello</i></b>
I decided to forget about visiting Perugia and continued to follow the walk recommended on the freebie map. We wandered (backtracking a lot) through the little streets. Drop-dead, picture-perfect, gorgeous views of the countryside, the old roman walls and little alleys were observed from almost any point along the perimeter. The view is particularly spectacular from the <b><i>Belvedere Panoramico</b></i> in front of <b><i>Chiesa di San Severino</b></i>.
The temperature was going up and it was already 2:30 PM! We had spent almost four hours in what I thought would be a less-than-an-hour stop. And we had not even scratched the surface. If the Upper Basilica in Assisi had not been on my absolutely-must-do list, I would have happily spent the rest of the day in Spello.
When I think about how I would redo this trip if I had a chance, I would stay in Spello instead of Gualdo Cattaneo. It would have made sense logistically considering the two drives we had planned and it would have given us the opportunity to do some more exploring in town. OTOH, Le Casa Gialle was really, really nice. I guess you can’t have it all. There is always next time.
I picked up a coke and a really scrumptious rice and cheese croquette (1.90E) from a no-name bar for DD and we were off to our next destination, visiting Francis.
<b><i>Up, up and up inside a cloud of gravel dust</i></b>
Once the Perugia side trip was eliminated from The Plan, we were free to take the scenic road to Assisi.
We exited Spello in direction Collepino. After a few kilometers the paved road turned to well-maintained gravel as we approached the <b><i>Monte Subiaso</i></b> reserve area. They are actually in the process of building curbs along the road and I’m sure that by next year it will be fully paved.
Initially it was a bit disappointing because we drove through planted forests and there were no views to be had. But I had faith in the guys that mark in scenic-green the Michelin maps and finally the road opened into meadows. What happened? We cannot be above the tree line, its only 1290m elevation! But there it was, unobstructed views of the Umbrian countryside, the blades of grass rippling in the wind and the car thermometer finally showing a reading below 30ºC, it went down to 28ºC.
After driving past all kinds of telecommunication antennas we were confronted with the obvious fact that what goes up must come down. And down, and down we went. I thought that there were more switchbacks along the descent towards Assisi than the ascent from Spello. If I was driving, I would have preferred to have done it in the reverse direction. For some stupid reason I am more comfortable in driving and hiking going up than down.
Suddenly, in what seemed to us to be the middle of nowhere, there was a long line of taxis. After the next switchback we saw that we were by the <b><i>Eramo delle Carcere / Hermitage</b></i> when we saw a throng of people gathered around a gated entrance. This is the place where St. Francis and his followers retreated into solitude.
Since we were not in a spiritual pilgrimage, we did not stop and continued another 10-15 minutes until we saw lots of cars parked at the side of the road and the <b><i>Porta Capuccini</b></i> gate into Assisi perhaps 500m ahead. We found a spot and parked. The car thermometer was back up to 35ºC at the time.
DD slept all the way from Spello to Assisi. Once we parked and woke her up I told her that she would regret all these naps when she grows up. I never thought that the following day I was encouraging her to fall asleep, but that was still in the future.
<b><i>Have I really been here before?</i></b>
My main goal was to reach the Upper Basilica which was exactly at the opposite end of town. We walked down towards <b><i>Piazza Matteoti</i></b> and continued down to the Piazza Comune. We were in need of refreshments and bathrooms so we plunked down at an available table in restaurant. This was the first and only truly yucky bathroom of the entire trip. DD decided to hold it (isn’t it grand to be young and have a strong bladder?!?!?) but I had no choice. DD decided she did not want to eat anything after all (that 1.5-hr long breakfast could also have had something to do it).
We were still thirsty and undecided about what to drink when I had a flash of inspiration. I told DH ‘I know exactly what I want to drink. Remember those half-and-half’s we have in Spain?’ (Half beer and half lemon soda). A quick inquiry with the waitress resulted in an ‘Of course, a mezza-mezza’. It was very cold, perfect for the weather.
DH insisted that we had been in this part of town before but I could not find within my brain a single memory of this Piazza or of our next destination, the <b><i> Temple of Minerva</i></b>. This is an ancient roman temple that has undergone multiple recappings as a Catholic church. Interesting but not worth a detour.
<b><i>Let’s stop moseying around, Francis is waiting!</i></b>
Even though I’m non-practicing, I’m Catholic born and raised. I would –if forced- define myself as mostly Buddhist, a little New Age and a splash of Wiccan. But regardless of my views of the church, I will always have a soft spot for St. Francis.
We finally reached the Upper basilica and I was shocked when both DD and I were pulled aside by the dress-code police. I had specifically dressed this day with modesty in mind. I was wearing a skirt (well below the knee) and a loose blouse with a square neck front and back. Well, apparently the back was too low-cut. I swear it was not more than 6-inches from my neck. DD was also wearing a skirt and an overshirt which was deeply cut in the back but she had a tube top underneath so the net result of exposed skin was possibly less than mine.
We were handed square, silk-like scarves printed with commemorative logos of big Catholic youth encounters to wear over our indecently exposed backs. I guess you win some and lose some. The scarves turned out to be ours to keep. Maybe they were just trying to get rid of them.
The Upper Basilica was everything I expected it to be. You can pick up any art book and read better descriptions than those that I can give. It is a true Gothic church, light and spacious, designed to awe. And Giotto’s Life of St. Francis cycle…wow. I found RS’s descriptions very easy to read and follow. DD asked endless questions, about Francis, the church, The Church, life in the middle ages….
We went down to the Lower Basilica to admire once again the frescoes. As much as I admire Gothic, Romanesque buildings are always appealing to me. I find the Lower church to be more intimate, built on a more human scale.
Of all the religious spots where I have been, the crypt holding Francis tomb is the only one that feels like truly, really hallowed ground to me. A place where the faith of millions is poured into. It’s the one place where I <i>want</i> to bend down on my knees and pray.
As I walked around the crypt and saw all the baby announcements posted as ex-votos I was ready to burst into tears. When I saw all the pictures crammed through the grill onto the tomb, the tears really started. I could not help but imagine the story of each picture, who they were, why they needed prayers, who brought the photo. Sick children, teens fallen prey to vices, soldiers gone to war, daughters gone missing.
<b><i>It’s time to go back</i></b>
After the visit was completed we went to the bathrooms by the lower piazza, (0.30E) pp and then it was time to haul ourselves all the way back to the car. We made it but it was not fun. DD and I had some gelato along the way to try to muster some energy (caramelo/straticcella forDD and nocciole for me, 4.90E).
The car thermometer registered 39ºC and the water we had left in there was only fit for tea. Close to an hour later we were sitting by the pool at Le Case Gialle, enjoying some cheap Sangiovese that DH had bought the day before and pleasantly chatting with some other guests.
<b><i>A very fine and refined meal in MONTEFALCO </i></b>
Our dinning destination for the evening was <b><i>Coccorone</b></i>. I had read good reviews and was also recommended by the agro. We drove to Montefalco, again parked for 0.30E. There were only ten minutes left until parking was free at 8:00PM but that was the minimum time and the cop was hanging around close by.
The restaurant is upstairs and has a terrace that even if does not have a view, is very cozy and inviting. We had a good feel about this place. The meal started with a round of prosecco, always a good thing in my view and immediately after ordering we were presented with an amouse bouche, the signs kept getting better and better. This is what we ate:
Amouse Bouche: Pork Sausage/Paté drizzled with an orange and vinegar reduction and dusted with orange zest. I’m not particularly fond of fruits in food but this was delicate and did not overpower the pork. It was good and the expectations kept getting higher.
Primi:
DD and DH: Porcini Rissotto for 2. It was deliciously al dente, creamy and perfectly seasoned. This was a refined and subtlety flavored dish.
Me: Funghi Crepes. They were really good but not nearly close to the ones had the previous evening at L’Alchimista.
Secondi:
DD and DH: Agnello Scottadi (Lamb Steak). Deliciously flavored.
Me: Arrosto Misto (Mixed Grill). It had a little bit of everything. Leg of lamb, pork, sausage, ribs. Olive oil had been drizzled over the plate. It was delicious and I wish I could have it right now.
Contorni:
Mixed Salad
Carciofi Arrosto (Grilled artichokes)
1l house wine, 2l water, 2 coffees. 87 well-deserved Euros (9E coperto).
When we ordered the risotto the waiter told us it would be over 30 minute wait for it, we said no problem. He interrupted the order-taking to tell the kitchen to get it going. It saved at least five minutes of waiting and the dish presented was certainly worth the wait.
I ordered coniglio (rabbit) but they did not have it. I hate it when that happens but know that Tuesdays are not the best days for restaurant eating so I was willing to let it go by without a second thought.
I could have eaten a second time in this restaurant but the following evening we were too tired for a big meal. We slowly rolled down the hill back to the car and drove back to Gualdo Cattaneo .
We went down by the pool to enjoy the night sky and the lightning bugs all around us. After about half-an-hour we began nodding off and returned to the apartment for a good night sleep.
<b>Next: The Scenic Drive that would not end.</b>
Jun 20th, 2009, 02:00 PM
#76
Thanks for telling me about this on my Rome post. Don't know how I missed it (except those 25 posts on the left go quickly). I guess I better get a bottle of vino (or two) out and read this cool report. Looks like I have a terrific read this weekend. Great job!!
Jun 20th, 2009, 04:46 PM
#78
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marigross,
I am so loving your trip report. Lots of great memories. Your meal at Der Pallaro was EXACTLY the same menu we had there 4 years ago! I wonder if they serve the same thing on certain nights of the week or just the same menu every night!
For our dinner, it was Signore Fazi who was out at the tables and flirting outrageous with the ladies.
I'm glad you like Spello. It was probably my very favorite of my last trip. I debated between La Casa Gaile and Palazzo Bocci in Spello. I went with Spello because I wanted to be able to walk to dinner after vino! Plus I was traveling solo and didn't want to be stuck to far out in the countryside.
I found the views and flowers in Spello just gorgeous and always recommend it as a place to stay!
Do continue!
I am so loving your trip report. Lots of great memories. Your meal at Der Pallaro was EXACTLY the same menu we had there 4 years ago! I wonder if they serve the same thing on certain nights of the week or just the same menu every night!
For our dinner, it was Signore Fazi who was out at the tables and flirting outrageous with the ladies.
I'm glad you like Spello. It was probably my very favorite of my last trip. I debated between La Casa Gaile and Palazzo Bocci in Spello. I went with Spello because I wanted to be able to walk to dinner after vino! Plus I was traveling solo and didn't want to be stuck to far out in the countryside.
I found the views and flowers in Spello just gorgeous and always recommend it as a place to stay!
Do continue!
Jun 21st, 2009, 07:58 AM
#80
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I'm so enjoying this - we stayed in Spello several years ago, and loved it as much as it sounds you did. We liked Assissi, too, but in a different way.
And Coccorone was definitely my favorite restaurant in Umbria - I've been trying to figure out how to make a return trip (in amongst all the other places to visit).
And Coccorone was definitely my favorite restaurant in Umbria - I've been trying to figure out how to make a return trip (in amongst all the other places to visit).
