Ciao Bella! DD’s 1st Italian Trip or How we ate our way through Italy
Jun 11th, 2009, 04:57 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ciao Bella! DD’s 1st Italian Trip or How we ate our way through Italy
<b>The Hard Facts</b> (for those who don’t like long, winded, detailed trip reports)
<i>The Itinerary </i>
Rome - 5 nights
Gualdo Cattaneo (Bevagna) - 3 nights
Pienza - 3 nights
San Gimignano - 1 night
Vernazza - 2 nights
Florence - 3 nights
Venice - 3 nights
<i> <b>Summary of Accommodations</i> </b>
<b>Rome</b>: Falegnami Apartament http://www.sleepinitaly.com/files/apt_falegnami.html
(130Euros/pn for three persons + cleaning fee)
This was our first experience with an apartment rental. It worked out very well. The apartment had a lot of pros but one big con. The location was great and I thought that it was accurately portrayed in the website. It was quiet, well lit and comfortable. The problem was that the small bedroom stank of sewage. This was not a disaster because we closed the room and DD slept in the living room sofa bed.
<b>Gualdo Cattaneo (Bevagna)</b>: Le Case Gialle http://www.lecasegialle.it/indexGB.htm
(110 Euros/pn - Il Giardino Apartment)
This is a beautiful little place. It is very well kept and the apartment was immaculately clean. The garden was gorgeous. Bread and Newspaper delivered in the morning. One bedroom apartment with a sofabed on the living room. Has a neat little terrace on the side. The pool was a big plus as the area was experiencing unseasonable heat. The only con is that it’s still a drive to go anywhere. I thought that I would cook, but I did not so that added a bit of driving for dinner.
<b>Pienza</b>: Piccolo Hotel La Valler http://www.piccolohotellavalle.it/index_uk.htm
(130 Euros/pn for a triple)
Loved this place. The triple room was a tad small for us plus luggage, but other than that the place was perfect. The view from the terrace was breathtaking. The breakfast buffet was the best of the trip (possible exceptions the ones we provided for ourselves). Hotel is just outside the walls of Pienza, 2 minute walk to the gate, and has parking and very easy access by car. 100% Recommended!
<b>San Gimignano </b>– Hotel Bel Soggiorno http://www.pescille.it/belsoggiorno/spedisci_en.php
(150 E/pn for a two-bedroom triple)
I had always wanted to stay in San Gimignano for a night, to see if the magic of the place really came alive after the tourists left (you will have to read all the TR details to find out if it did). The room was very basic but large and comfortable: one room with a double bed and huge closet, another room with two singles and the bathroom. It wins the #2 spot for best hotel-room-window-view ever. (#1 is in Ronda, Spain – but that was another trip report). It is the first hotel once you enter the gate so the walk from the #2 Parking is not bad (less than 10 minutes).
<b>Vernazza </b>– Gianni Franzi http://www.giannifranzi.it/index2.html
(120 E/pn for a triple, minus 10% cash discount)
There are 99 steps (we counted twice) from the piazza where you check-in to Room #41 – 3. This includes a spiral stair with 18” wide steps. Try to get luggage up those! The room was small with three separate single beds. Bathroom was recently renovated but had only lukewarm water in the shower. This is the type of room that would be considered luxurious by backpacker standards. No breakfast. I would not stay here again.
<b>Florence </b>– B&B Peterson http://www.bedinflorence.it/home.htm
(72 E/pn for a triple)
Good value for the money. The best part of the location is that it has a bus stop in front and a bar next door. The neighborhood feels safe but is not inviting. Not inviting at all. I would walk it (quickly) by myself late at night but would not let DD do it (all you moms know what I mean). Double bed (two singles pushed together) and a folding bed. It was spacious enough to lay our luggage comfortably. Bedspreads are really worn and were a turn-off for me; actually the overall room is beginning to look pretty worn too they need to do something soon. Bathroom had great pressure and lots of steaming hot water. It was quiet. No breakfast, but the bar next door makes great coffee.
<b>Venice </b>- Corte 1321 http://www.corte1321.com/en/sent_request.htm
(177 E/pn for a triple, minus 10% cash discount which we inquired about, it was not advertised, they were surprised at being asked and accepted after a brief consultation)
Considering the current prices of hotels in Venice and the fact that we were there during the Biennale opening weekend, this was the best hotel value of the trip. We stayed in the Yellow Room and LOVED it. Big double bed (two singles pushed together), a single bed and a day bed (sort of a futon). We were able to put the luggage over the spare bed. Best bathroom of the trip. Breakfast was included: coffee (not cappuccino), rolls, jams, yogurt and juice. It was an easy walk from the San Zacharia vaporetto stop (no bridges to cross) and the instructions were easy to follow (but you do need to pay attention). I would certainly and gladly stay with them again.
<b><i>Summary of Restaurants</i> </b>
I will briefly list the restaurants, I will discuss them in great (read: too much) detail further on. For those that will not go through the details the prices I list are for three persons, usually include a primi and secondi for each, at least a liter of water and house wine, no dessert and sometimes coffee.
We did not have a single bad meal in 21 days, a few could have been better, some had a single amazing dish while the other plates were ho-hum. There were occasions were I was too tired to seek out a specific place which resulted in what I call ‘okay’ meals and a few slightly overprized one (in one predictable instance, very overprized).
<b>Rome</b>
Pizza Ré - great pizza, but what can be bad on arrival day to Rome. 45E
Ditirambo – Very good meal, would certainly eat there again. 77E
Der Pallaro – Most entertaining meal of the trip. Food was solid, hearty and abundant. I was not crazy about the dessert. Fixed price of 25E pp =75E.
Osteria del Pegno – One of the best meals of the trip, certainly on the top 5. 88E
Da Baffetto – Really good pizza. Seeing the waiter manage the crowd was an experience. 43E.
<b>Montepulciano</b>
L’Alchimista – Variable quality and taste over the meal, great primis, somewhat disappointing seconds. The ambiance was not vibrant (or maybe we were a bit tired). 69E
Le Coccorone – Solid meal, interesting amouse bouche and prosecco included with the coperto. The terrace did not have a view but was very cozy. Did not have a few of the things in the menu but that is almost common on a Tuesday evening. Would return. 88E.
<b>Norcia</b>
Locanda del Teatro – This was one of the very few sit-down lunches that we had. Great antipasti platter. 42E.
<b>Bevagana </b>
La Farafalla – The rain decided this restaurant for us. We had lunch so were not too hunger, adequate Pizza. 42E
To be continued…….
<i>The Itinerary </i>
Rome - 5 nights
Gualdo Cattaneo (Bevagna) - 3 nights
Pienza - 3 nights
San Gimignano - 1 night
Vernazza - 2 nights
Florence - 3 nights
Venice - 3 nights
<i> <b>Summary of Accommodations</i> </b>
<b>Rome</b>: Falegnami Apartament http://www.sleepinitaly.com/files/apt_falegnami.html
(130Euros/pn for three persons + cleaning fee)
This was our first experience with an apartment rental. It worked out very well. The apartment had a lot of pros but one big con. The location was great and I thought that it was accurately portrayed in the website. It was quiet, well lit and comfortable. The problem was that the small bedroom stank of sewage. This was not a disaster because we closed the room and DD slept in the living room sofa bed.
<b>Gualdo Cattaneo (Bevagna)</b>: Le Case Gialle http://www.lecasegialle.it/indexGB.htm
(110 Euros/pn - Il Giardino Apartment)
This is a beautiful little place. It is very well kept and the apartment was immaculately clean. The garden was gorgeous. Bread and Newspaper delivered in the morning. One bedroom apartment with a sofabed on the living room. Has a neat little terrace on the side. The pool was a big plus as the area was experiencing unseasonable heat. The only con is that it’s still a drive to go anywhere. I thought that I would cook, but I did not so that added a bit of driving for dinner.
<b>Pienza</b>: Piccolo Hotel La Valler http://www.piccolohotellavalle.it/index_uk.htm
(130 Euros/pn for a triple)
Loved this place. The triple room was a tad small for us plus luggage, but other than that the place was perfect. The view from the terrace was breathtaking. The breakfast buffet was the best of the trip (possible exceptions the ones we provided for ourselves). Hotel is just outside the walls of Pienza, 2 minute walk to the gate, and has parking and very easy access by car. 100% Recommended!
<b>San Gimignano </b>– Hotel Bel Soggiorno http://www.pescille.it/belsoggiorno/spedisci_en.php
(150 E/pn for a two-bedroom triple)
I had always wanted to stay in San Gimignano for a night, to see if the magic of the place really came alive after the tourists left (you will have to read all the TR details to find out if it did). The room was very basic but large and comfortable: one room with a double bed and huge closet, another room with two singles and the bathroom. It wins the #2 spot for best hotel-room-window-view ever. (#1 is in Ronda, Spain – but that was another trip report). It is the first hotel once you enter the gate so the walk from the #2 Parking is not bad (less than 10 minutes).
<b>Vernazza </b>– Gianni Franzi http://www.giannifranzi.it/index2.html
(120 E/pn for a triple, minus 10% cash discount)
There are 99 steps (we counted twice) from the piazza where you check-in to Room #41 – 3. This includes a spiral stair with 18” wide steps. Try to get luggage up those! The room was small with three separate single beds. Bathroom was recently renovated but had only lukewarm water in the shower. This is the type of room that would be considered luxurious by backpacker standards. No breakfast. I would not stay here again.
<b>Florence </b>– B&B Peterson http://www.bedinflorence.it/home.htm
(72 E/pn for a triple)
Good value for the money. The best part of the location is that it has a bus stop in front and a bar next door. The neighborhood feels safe but is not inviting. Not inviting at all. I would walk it (quickly) by myself late at night but would not let DD do it (all you moms know what I mean). Double bed (two singles pushed together) and a folding bed. It was spacious enough to lay our luggage comfortably. Bedspreads are really worn and were a turn-off for me; actually the overall room is beginning to look pretty worn too they need to do something soon. Bathroom had great pressure and lots of steaming hot water. It was quiet. No breakfast, but the bar next door makes great coffee.
<b>Venice </b>- Corte 1321 http://www.corte1321.com/en/sent_request.htm
(177 E/pn for a triple, minus 10% cash discount which we inquired about, it was not advertised, they were surprised at being asked and accepted after a brief consultation)
Considering the current prices of hotels in Venice and the fact that we were there during the Biennale opening weekend, this was the best hotel value of the trip. We stayed in the Yellow Room and LOVED it. Big double bed (two singles pushed together), a single bed and a day bed (sort of a futon). We were able to put the luggage over the spare bed. Best bathroom of the trip. Breakfast was included: coffee (not cappuccino), rolls, jams, yogurt and juice. It was an easy walk from the San Zacharia vaporetto stop (no bridges to cross) and the instructions were easy to follow (but you do need to pay attention). I would certainly and gladly stay with them again.
<b><i>Summary of Restaurants</i> </b>
I will briefly list the restaurants, I will discuss them in great (read: too much) detail further on. For those that will not go through the details the prices I list are for three persons, usually include a primi and secondi for each, at least a liter of water and house wine, no dessert and sometimes coffee.
We did not have a single bad meal in 21 days, a few could have been better, some had a single amazing dish while the other plates were ho-hum. There were occasions were I was too tired to seek out a specific place which resulted in what I call ‘okay’ meals and a few slightly overprized one (in one predictable instance, very overprized).
<b>Rome</b>
Pizza Ré - great pizza, but what can be bad on arrival day to Rome. 45E
Ditirambo – Very good meal, would certainly eat there again. 77E
Der Pallaro – Most entertaining meal of the trip. Food was solid, hearty and abundant. I was not crazy about the dessert. Fixed price of 25E pp =75E.
Osteria del Pegno – One of the best meals of the trip, certainly on the top 5. 88E
Da Baffetto – Really good pizza. Seeing the waiter manage the crowd was an experience. 43E.
<b>Montepulciano</b>
L’Alchimista – Variable quality and taste over the meal, great primis, somewhat disappointing seconds. The ambiance was not vibrant (or maybe we were a bit tired). 69E
Le Coccorone – Solid meal, interesting amouse bouche and prosecco included with the coperto. The terrace did not have a view but was very cozy. Did not have a few of the things in the menu but that is almost common on a Tuesday evening. Would return. 88E.
<b>Norcia</b>
Locanda del Teatro – This was one of the very few sit-down lunches that we had. Great antipasti platter. 42E.
<b>Bevagana </b>
La Farafalla – The rain decided this restaurant for us. We had lunch so were not too hunger, adequate Pizza. 42E
To be continued…….
Jun 11th, 2009, 11:01 AM
#5
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
marigross...
Great start...I'm looking forward to the detailed portion!
I've been to 3 of the 5 restaurants you went to in Rome...have to agree about Der Pallaro. As one Roman resident told me..."there, they tell you what you will eat"! ;-)
Great start...I'm looking forward to the detailed portion!
I've been to 3 of the 5 restaurants you went to in Rome...have to agree about Der Pallaro. As one Roman resident told me..."there, they tell you what you will eat"! ;-)
Jun 11th, 2009, 11:07 AM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b><i>Summary of Restaurants – Continued </i> </b>
<b>Pienza</b>
La Fiorella – Recommended by the hotel. Decent food but a bit overpriced compared to the other dinners we had. 105E.
Latte di Luna – No question, the best quality/price meal of the entire trip. Everything was excellent. We were sorry that they were closed the following evening and could not return. Reservations required. 81E
Il Rosselino – Prosecco served with coperto. Started with low expectations (hotel had not been very encouraging and thought it overpriced) and proceeded to have one of the best meals of the entire trip in this restaurant. Definitely worth returning to! Reservations required as they only seat 12 persons per night. 112E.
<b>San Gimignano</b>
Bar Firenze – Again, selected by the cold rain. Completely forgettable light lunch worthy of tourist (trap) area: one pizza, one primi and a few drinks. 27E
Le Vecchie Mura – Very good meal for a decent price, some dishes were better than others but all were at least above good. We made a reservation in the afternoon because it was raining and the garden tables would not be used, significantly reducing their capacity. I would go back. 77E.
<b>Vernazza</b>
Gambero Rosso – Excellent entertaining from the owner. Solid but a bit more expensive (when compared to our meals in Pienza). Regretted not returning the following night. The seafood risotto was excellent. 119E.
Da Sandro – Started out great but quickly petered out. DD’s dish was inedible. Should have gone back to the Gambero. Horribly overpriced at 112E.
<b>Florence</b>
Trattoria Zá Zá – We wound up in the area and were hungry, all other places on my list were closed. Very tasty in an ‘Outback’-kind-of-way. I would eat there again if someone wanted to try it but would be willing to try an unknown place before (don’t know if that makes sense to anyone but me). 100E.
Pork’s at the Mercato Centrale – Light lunch. Tried to go to Nerbone’s but it was a mob scene. I probably would not have sat down if I had read the name of the place first. Surprisingly good, servers were bending backwards trying to please the customers. I would have returned the next day if we had been in the area. 26E.
All'antico Ristoro Di Cambi – Excellent value. Food was very good but my dishes were unfortunately cold which subtracted a lot from my enjoyment. Would definitely give it another try. 74E.
Il Guscio – I was somewhat skeptical and would have chosen another place (Alla Vechia Bettola was on my list) but DH saw a few things on the menu that he wanted to try. Wow! My main dish got voted the best single-dish of the trip. Place was empty until 9:30 on a Saturday night and then had people waiting outside by the time we left. Have to look for the ticket but it was not much over 100E.
<b>Venice</b>
Trattoria alla Madonna – This is somewhat of a tradition for DH and me. Solid food, DHs secondi was excellent. Overall a good performance and the price was right for Venice standards, 96E (a 12% service charge in addition to coperto was added).
Unidentified pizzeria in San Apolinare campo – I was having a meltdown so nothing would have seemed really remarkable to me at the time. Must admit that the pizza was OK. DH’s rather unusual selection was very good. I thought the it was very overpriced considering our meal the previous night, 77E (a 12% service charge in addition to coperto was added).
Ruga Rialto – Had lots of chicchetti, some better than others but all worth returning for. Great ambiance. Don’t have the ticket but it was in the 80E range.
And now, THE STORY......
<b>Pienza</b>
La Fiorella – Recommended by the hotel. Decent food but a bit overpriced compared to the other dinners we had. 105E.
Latte di Luna – No question, the best quality/price meal of the entire trip. Everything was excellent. We were sorry that they were closed the following evening and could not return. Reservations required. 81E
Il Rosselino – Prosecco served with coperto. Started with low expectations (hotel had not been very encouraging and thought it overpriced) and proceeded to have one of the best meals of the entire trip in this restaurant. Definitely worth returning to! Reservations required as they only seat 12 persons per night. 112E.
<b>San Gimignano</b>
Bar Firenze – Again, selected by the cold rain. Completely forgettable light lunch worthy of tourist (trap) area: one pizza, one primi and a few drinks. 27E
Le Vecchie Mura – Very good meal for a decent price, some dishes were better than others but all were at least above good. We made a reservation in the afternoon because it was raining and the garden tables would not be used, significantly reducing their capacity. I would go back. 77E.
<b>Vernazza</b>
Gambero Rosso – Excellent entertaining from the owner. Solid but a bit more expensive (when compared to our meals in Pienza). Regretted not returning the following night. The seafood risotto was excellent. 119E.
Da Sandro – Started out great but quickly petered out. DD’s dish was inedible. Should have gone back to the Gambero. Horribly overpriced at 112E.
<b>Florence</b>
Trattoria Zá Zá – We wound up in the area and were hungry, all other places on my list were closed. Very tasty in an ‘Outback’-kind-of-way. I would eat there again if someone wanted to try it but would be willing to try an unknown place before (don’t know if that makes sense to anyone but me). 100E.
Pork’s at the Mercato Centrale – Light lunch. Tried to go to Nerbone’s but it was a mob scene. I probably would not have sat down if I had read the name of the place first. Surprisingly good, servers were bending backwards trying to please the customers. I would have returned the next day if we had been in the area. 26E.
All'antico Ristoro Di Cambi – Excellent value. Food was very good but my dishes were unfortunately cold which subtracted a lot from my enjoyment. Would definitely give it another try. 74E.
Il Guscio – I was somewhat skeptical and would have chosen another place (Alla Vechia Bettola was on my list) but DH saw a few things on the menu that he wanted to try. Wow! My main dish got voted the best single-dish of the trip. Place was empty until 9:30 on a Saturday night and then had people waiting outside by the time we left. Have to look for the ticket but it was not much over 100E.
<b>Venice</b>
Trattoria alla Madonna – This is somewhat of a tradition for DH and me. Solid food, DHs secondi was excellent. Overall a good performance and the price was right for Venice standards, 96E (a 12% service charge in addition to coperto was added).
Unidentified pizzeria in San Apolinare campo – I was having a meltdown so nothing would have seemed really remarkable to me at the time. Must admit that the pizza was OK. DH’s rather unusual selection was very good. I thought the it was very overpriced considering our meal the previous night, 77E (a 12% service charge in addition to coperto was added).
Ruga Rialto – Had lots of chicchetti, some better than others but all worth returning for. Great ambiance. Don’t have the ticket but it was in the 80E range.
And now, THE STORY......
Jun 11th, 2009, 11:17 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks to all! I tend to write epic trip reports so this will take a while to complete.
Leely, yes, it was not nice. It was OK while the door was closed and the A/C on so it was manageable. I will talke about it some more.
LCI, the Der Pallaro place was a blast, but only because we were seated promptly and not being the objective of the owners attentions.
The people waiting for tables did not find it particularily funny.
Leely, yes, it was not nice. It was OK while the door was closed and the A/C on so it was manageable. I will talke about it some more.
LCI, the Der Pallaro place was a blast, but only because we were seated promptly and not being the objective of the owners attentions.
The people waiting for tables did not find it particularily funny.
Jun 12th, 2009, 04:09 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>BACKGROUND</b>
<b><i>The Cast</i></b>
DD, 16yrs old (going on 28 in her mind), only child, high school sophomore, artsy chick, very appreciative of the male physique, fiercely independent, rather pleasant to be around, does not whine (too much) and can read maps. The big questions for this trip: Could she stand her parents uninterruptedly for three weeks? Could she live an electronics-free life with an I-Touch as her only lifeline for this extended period?
DH, 62yrs old (going on 28 in his mind), Swiss-born but has lived in the US for more than 30yrs, 10 of those in Puerto Rico, where we reside. He was a traveling service guy for manufacturing equipment all his working life so he is Road Warrior Extraordinaire. He can drive for hours without getting sleepy or bored, read maps, carry heavy stuff, open bottles, hike relentlessly, endure in silence my marathon museum sessions and hold my hand when I’m scared.
Me, 40 yrs old (and very happy with them, thank you!), Puerto Rican born and raised. Lived all my life in the island, have a History of Art and Architecture background and a passion for Italian Renaissance, avid reader, love food in all its forms and must confess that I am an obsessive-compulsive vacation planner. I do not consider myself a trip Nazi -but I’m not asking what my victims think just in case!
<b><i>Our Travel Style</i></b>
I get 18 vacation days per year which I hoard and spend only when absolutely necessary. I am at work every day and very seldom call in sick. I am a very reliable worker but my boss knows that there is a personal interest in this. The condition for my unflagging presence and commitment is that I will go on vacation for three weeks every 1.5 years.
I want every day spent on vacation to be utilized to the max. I have unlimited lists of Things-To-Do-And-See. Big museums, small museums, countless churches, one more hill town…I am fully aware that I’m guilty of the travel sin of cramming too many activities/sights in a single day. This does not work for a lot of people but it does for us (most of the time). When I grow up I want to be a Slow Traveler, but while I’m still part of the rat race I have to make do with moving around quickly.
<i>Note: This is the first time in a European vacation in which I have taken an unplanned full day of down time. Maybe I am growing up after all!</i>
We prefer small, convenient hotels and are definitely not resort people. We will not spend big bucks on hotels which we will only visit to sleep.
We eat a decent breakfast and very seldom have lunch. DD gets hungry early in the afternoon and she usually has a slice of pizza or a sandwich from a street counter. I am usually content with having a bite or two of whatever she is eating. DH does not do lunch, even when at home. So we have only a single sit down restaurant meal per day.
If you are looking for shopping tips, this is not the trip report for you. I am not a shopper. In fact, in this trip I did not buy a single thing. I missed my chance to buy a few pretty scarves and little things in Florence and afterwards I could not find them anymore (not that I was looking very hard). I usually bring home a few food items bought at the last destination but by that time I was not feeling so well so this time I came back completely empty handed. DD bought a few clothing items, bracelets and charms. That was it.
<b><i>The Timing</i></b>
This trip has been scheduled for last year as a 15th birthday trip for DD but some major expenses and teen drama got in the way. Fellow Loungers will most likely remember the school change trauma!!! We postponed the trip first to spring break this year and then to May in order to have the full three weeks available. Bottomline, I had a lot of time to plan this trip.
We left the evening of the day in which she took her last end of term exam. We were –ahem- <i>unsure</i> of the results of one of these tests and her passing grade depended on it. Summer school would start before we returned from the vacations so this caused a bit of tension and lots of login into edline whenever wi-fi was available. (BTW, the grade was not posted until after we returned, when we found out that she had miraculously passed the class and now has a free summer.
<b><i>Spinning the airfare roulette</i></b>
Traveling from San Juan, Puerto Rico to Europe is never easy or cheap. We mostly have to go to Miami (hate that airport!), Newark or JFK to catch a connecting flight to Europe. This invariably adds at least 6 hours of travel time. Iberia runs a few flights from SJU direct to Madrid but they tend to be very expensive and sell out almost as fast as they are opened.
I started watching the prices nine months before the trip. Prices started out at around $1000 pp for Rome roundtrips, Venice roundtrips and for the preferred alternative -flying into Rome and returning from Venice- it floated about $200 above. Monitoring the prices turned into a daily pastime. And then, one day in early February, it happened! Iberia posted SJU-MAD-FCO / VCE-MAD-SJU for $850. Three weeks, from Tuesday toTuesday, May 19th to June 9th. YEAH! With trembling hands I pressed the buy button and a few minutes later, victory! We were committed and trip planning / reservation making could start in earnest.
<b><i>And its counterpart: the car rental roulette</i></b>
We wanted to rent a car for a week. Pick up in Rome and dropping it either in Pisa or in La Spezia as our next destination at that point would be Vernazza. I read multiple Fodor’s threads recommending Pisa over La Spezia so we settled on the first.
After multiple searches I was ready to reserve with Hertz for something around 230E. For some silly reason the Travel Gods were smiling on me and my (very slow, dial-up) home internet crashed and I could not buy. Well, next morning at work (yes, I sometimes use my work internet for personal things, shoot me) I tried again. And lo and behold! The same schedule was posted for 71E, including standard insurance. I was shocked. I did not even try to modify the times to pick and drop off the car in fear that Hertz would discover an error with the price. Well, the reservation went through, confirmation was received, and Hertz never tried to add anything on when we picked up the car in Rome.
<i>Note: After experiencing the car return in Pisa, I will take my chances with La Spezia any day, but more on that later. </i>
<b><i>Getting There</i></b>
The flights were boring, which is always a good thing in my book. I was rather surprised to find that the Iberia food was edible and wine was still free. We had a window and two aisle seats, DD and I sat next to each other and DH sat on the other side with an empty seat next to him so he had a little space to spread out. He dozed, I slept a few hours and DD fell asleep two hours into the flight and woke up when they served breakfast before landing.
We had to fill out some forms about the A1H1-whatever-its-called/swine flu. Where we had been, if we had been ill, if we had a fever, or sneezing….
After a 2.5 hour layover in Madrid we boarded our connection and promptly fell asleep. Two hours later we woke up in Rome. Plane reached the gate, the door opened, we waited, and waited, and waited. About 20 minutes later we hear about 5 names called, naturally 3 of those were ours. They had handed out some more swine flu forms during the flight while we were sleeping and the Italian port authorities would not allow disembarkment until every passenger was accounted for. Anyway, after scribbling at top speed our forms we were finally allowed to leave the plane.
<b><i>The Transport</i></b>
I had entertained the thought of using public transportation to reach our apartment; the agency had provided detailed instructions which seemed easy to follow. After calculating the cost of the trains and compared it to a shuttle service and added the intangible cost of jetlagged aggravation, I decided to reserve with Rome Shuttle Limousines. 40E for three passengers (cash). Best decision ever!
http://www.romeshuttlelimousine.com/FiumicinoE.htm
The driver was waiting for us outside baggage claim and drove us directly to the apartment without asking any questions. I would recommend this service.
<b><i>The Apartment</i></b>
The owner (maybe?) was there when we arrived. Showed us the apartment, explained the A/C and hot water, took our money, and promptly left. Afterwards we had a few problems lighting up the gas stove and using the coffee machine so I would include these questions for a future rental.
The apartment was exactly as pictured in the website. Two rooms, kitchen/living space, nice comfortable bathroom. Water pressure was excellent and we never lacked hot water. It appeared to be perfect in every way…. until we returned from our first walk through gorgeous Rome.
<b>Next: Is this the same city that I hated the first time around? and, What the #$# is that smell?!?!?</b>
<b><i>The Cast</i></b>
DD, 16yrs old (going on 28 in her mind), only child, high school sophomore, artsy chick, very appreciative of the male physique, fiercely independent, rather pleasant to be around, does not whine (too much) and can read maps. The big questions for this trip: Could she stand her parents uninterruptedly for three weeks? Could she live an electronics-free life with an I-Touch as her only lifeline for this extended period?
DH, 62yrs old (going on 28 in his mind), Swiss-born but has lived in the US for more than 30yrs, 10 of those in Puerto Rico, where we reside. He was a traveling service guy for manufacturing equipment all his working life so he is Road Warrior Extraordinaire. He can drive for hours without getting sleepy or bored, read maps, carry heavy stuff, open bottles, hike relentlessly, endure in silence my marathon museum sessions and hold my hand when I’m scared.
Me, 40 yrs old (and very happy with them, thank you!), Puerto Rican born and raised. Lived all my life in the island, have a History of Art and Architecture background and a passion for Italian Renaissance, avid reader, love food in all its forms and must confess that I am an obsessive-compulsive vacation planner. I do not consider myself a trip Nazi -but I’m not asking what my victims think just in case!
<b><i>Our Travel Style</i></b>
I get 18 vacation days per year which I hoard and spend only when absolutely necessary. I am at work every day and very seldom call in sick. I am a very reliable worker but my boss knows that there is a personal interest in this. The condition for my unflagging presence and commitment is that I will go on vacation for three weeks every 1.5 years.
I want every day spent on vacation to be utilized to the max. I have unlimited lists of Things-To-Do-And-See. Big museums, small museums, countless churches, one more hill town…I am fully aware that I’m guilty of the travel sin of cramming too many activities/sights in a single day. This does not work for a lot of people but it does for us (most of the time). When I grow up I want to be a Slow Traveler, but while I’m still part of the rat race I have to make do with moving around quickly.
<i>Note: This is the first time in a European vacation in which I have taken an unplanned full day of down time. Maybe I am growing up after all!</i>
We prefer small, convenient hotels and are definitely not resort people. We will not spend big bucks on hotels which we will only visit to sleep.
We eat a decent breakfast and very seldom have lunch. DD gets hungry early in the afternoon and she usually has a slice of pizza or a sandwich from a street counter. I am usually content with having a bite or two of whatever she is eating. DH does not do lunch, even when at home. So we have only a single sit down restaurant meal per day.
If you are looking for shopping tips, this is not the trip report for you. I am not a shopper. In fact, in this trip I did not buy a single thing. I missed my chance to buy a few pretty scarves and little things in Florence and afterwards I could not find them anymore (not that I was looking very hard). I usually bring home a few food items bought at the last destination but by that time I was not feeling so well so this time I came back completely empty handed. DD bought a few clothing items, bracelets and charms. That was it.
<b><i>The Timing</i></b>
This trip has been scheduled for last year as a 15th birthday trip for DD but some major expenses and teen drama got in the way. Fellow Loungers will most likely remember the school change trauma!!! We postponed the trip first to spring break this year and then to May in order to have the full three weeks available. Bottomline, I had a lot of time to plan this trip.
We left the evening of the day in which she took her last end of term exam. We were –ahem- <i>unsure</i> of the results of one of these tests and her passing grade depended on it. Summer school would start before we returned from the vacations so this caused a bit of tension and lots of login into edline whenever wi-fi was available. (BTW, the grade was not posted until after we returned, when we found out that she had miraculously passed the class and now has a free summer.
<b><i>Spinning the airfare roulette</i></b>
Traveling from San Juan, Puerto Rico to Europe is never easy or cheap. We mostly have to go to Miami (hate that airport!), Newark or JFK to catch a connecting flight to Europe. This invariably adds at least 6 hours of travel time. Iberia runs a few flights from SJU direct to Madrid but they tend to be very expensive and sell out almost as fast as they are opened.
I started watching the prices nine months before the trip. Prices started out at around $1000 pp for Rome roundtrips, Venice roundtrips and for the preferred alternative -flying into Rome and returning from Venice- it floated about $200 above. Monitoring the prices turned into a daily pastime. And then, one day in early February, it happened! Iberia posted SJU-MAD-FCO / VCE-MAD-SJU for $850. Three weeks, from Tuesday toTuesday, May 19th to June 9th. YEAH! With trembling hands I pressed the buy button and a few minutes later, victory! We were committed and trip planning / reservation making could start in earnest.
<b><i>And its counterpart: the car rental roulette</i></b>
We wanted to rent a car for a week. Pick up in Rome and dropping it either in Pisa or in La Spezia as our next destination at that point would be Vernazza. I read multiple Fodor’s threads recommending Pisa over La Spezia so we settled on the first.
After multiple searches I was ready to reserve with Hertz for something around 230E. For some silly reason the Travel Gods were smiling on me and my (very slow, dial-up) home internet crashed and I could not buy. Well, next morning at work (yes, I sometimes use my work internet for personal things, shoot me) I tried again. And lo and behold! The same schedule was posted for 71E, including standard insurance. I was shocked. I did not even try to modify the times to pick and drop off the car in fear that Hertz would discover an error with the price. Well, the reservation went through, confirmation was received, and Hertz never tried to add anything on when we picked up the car in Rome.
<i>Note: After experiencing the car return in Pisa, I will take my chances with La Spezia any day, but more on that later. </i>
<b><i>Getting There</i></b>
The flights were boring, which is always a good thing in my book. I was rather surprised to find that the Iberia food was edible and wine was still free. We had a window and two aisle seats, DD and I sat next to each other and DH sat on the other side with an empty seat next to him so he had a little space to spread out. He dozed, I slept a few hours and DD fell asleep two hours into the flight and woke up when they served breakfast before landing.
We had to fill out some forms about the A1H1-whatever-its-called/swine flu. Where we had been, if we had been ill, if we had a fever, or sneezing….
After a 2.5 hour layover in Madrid we boarded our connection and promptly fell asleep. Two hours later we woke up in Rome. Plane reached the gate, the door opened, we waited, and waited, and waited. About 20 minutes later we hear about 5 names called, naturally 3 of those were ours. They had handed out some more swine flu forms during the flight while we were sleeping and the Italian port authorities would not allow disembarkment until every passenger was accounted for. Anyway, after scribbling at top speed our forms we were finally allowed to leave the plane.
<b><i>The Transport</i></b>
I had entertained the thought of using public transportation to reach our apartment; the agency had provided detailed instructions which seemed easy to follow. After calculating the cost of the trains and compared it to a shuttle service and added the intangible cost of jetlagged aggravation, I decided to reserve with Rome Shuttle Limousines. 40E for three passengers (cash). Best decision ever!
http://www.romeshuttlelimousine.com/FiumicinoE.htm
The driver was waiting for us outside baggage claim and drove us directly to the apartment without asking any questions. I would recommend this service.
<b><i>The Apartment</i></b>
The owner (maybe?) was there when we arrived. Showed us the apartment, explained the A/C and hot water, took our money, and promptly left. Afterwards we had a few problems lighting up the gas stove and using the coffee machine so I would include these questions for a future rental.
The apartment was exactly as pictured in the website. Two rooms, kitchen/living space, nice comfortable bathroom. Water pressure was excellent and we never lacked hot water. It appeared to be perfect in every way…. until we returned from our first walk through gorgeous Rome.
<b>Next: Is this the same city that I hated the first time around? and, What the #$# is that smell?!?!?</b>
Jun 12th, 2009, 05:07 AM
#13
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Marigross...
Love the format of your report...very easy to read.
I have a very similar work situation/travel style...some years I horde my vacation days so I can take 3 or 4 weeks off...that just about sends my boss and co-workers into tail-spins! ;-) Or if I don't take the days all at once, I'll spread them out over a couple Europe trips in one year. Lucky for me I get a pretty nice chunk of time each year.
Rome is one of my favorite places...can't wait to hear more about your adventure!
Love the format of your report...very easy to read.
I have a very similar work situation/travel style...some years I horde my vacation days so I can take 3 or 4 weeks off...that just about sends my boss and co-workers into tail-spins! ;-) Or if I don't take the days all at once, I'll spread them out over a couple Europe trips in one year. Lucky for me I get a pretty nice chunk of time each year.
Rome is one of my favorite places...can't wait to hear more about your adventure!
Jun 12th, 2009, 09:36 AM
#17
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another happy reader! Have been considering staying at Le Case Gialle on our next trip to Italy, but also worried it's too far to venture out to restaurants at night, as I'm getting a bit older, I don't like to drive far in strange places at night (especially after a few vinos).
Jun 12th, 2009, 11:25 AM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>May 19th - Day 1: Our First Evening Savoring Rome</b>
After completing all of our arrival routines we were free to go at around 6:30PM and we headed into nearby Campo de Fiori with the intention of following (more or less) Rick Steve’s Night Walk (I will talk a little more about my experience with Mr. Steves’ books later).
The apartment is in the Ghetto and though it’s advertised as Campo de Fiori, the 90-second walk and crossing of a street into the ‘official’ Campo area is not enough for me to claim being misled. Actually, it worked out better because this area is a lot quieter in the evening than the rowdier Campo.
As we walked through the Campo I began to have a generalized feeling of well-being (who am I kidding, I was doing the internal happy dance!), I was in ROME! Furthermore, I was LIKING ROME. Then we walked into Piazza Navona in the golden sunlight of early evening… there was no trash, minimal hawkers, it was not too awfully crowded and had a vibrant but relaxing ambiance. Was this the same city I had hated the first time around?
Let me go back 10 years for a moment. DH-to-be and I were having our first extended vacation together, 21 days winging-it in Italy. We had been traveling through the Tuscan countryside, staying in small cozy hotels and having quiet dinners in unnamed restaurants when, bang! We drove into Rome. Only kilometers of warehouses, hookers and truckers to be seen coming into the city. We had no hotel reservations and we had a car. We managed and still had a great time, but my impression of Rome was that it was chaotic, dirty and most certainly, not user-friendly. Needless to say, this was in the p.F. age (Pre-Fodor’s).
With that experience I had specifically planned to go to Rome first on this trip so that there would be not be a let-down after a place we really liked, it should only improve from there, right? My impression was that the city had been pressure-washed from top to bottom and armies of garbage collectors hired. There was some debris on the street, but not more than in other place. This will contrast with my experience of Florence, but I digress too much.
I still think that Rome is not user-friendly but this time I was READY. I was armed with the knowledge and misadventures of countless Fodorites!
<b><i>From Piazza Navona to the Fontana di Trevi</i></b>
We enjoyed the 4 Rivers Fountain and since the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone was open, we went in. I had just finished reading ‘The Genius in the Design’ a book about the rivalry between Bernini and Borromini so I was able to appreciate what I was seeing at a more profound level.
We wandered through the pedestrian area towards the Pantheon. It was just as magnificent as I remembered. The sun was shining through the oculus and casting beautiful shadows on the coffered vault. What a wondrous building!
Our walk continued to the Trevi fountain, it was still daylight which steals a little of its thunder, but DD was properly impressed. There were a lot of people (is it ever empty?) but it was manageable. I gave her a coin and told her about returning to Rome. She replied the she was not throwing it in; she did not want to return to Rome, she was simply not leaving.
We people watched for about half and hour. There was a young girl, maybe 6 or 7 years old, hitching up her dress and walking into the fountain. She jumped in from the stones in the back next to the water, waddled around for a few moments, jumped right back up and waited to see if anyone would tell her not to do it again. No one did so the cycle was repeated multiple times. It was rather hilarious to watch.
Well, in the end DD did throw her coin in, she said it was cheap insurance in case she could not run away from us and we forced her to return home. And then it was time for one of our all-time favorite activities…Cocktail Hour! Nothing beats sipping a drink while watching the world and its people go by. This activity will be referred to hence fore as WUI and will be repeated on a daily basis for the next 20 days.
<b><i> Watching under the Influence</i></b>
<i>Disclaimer: We drank a lot on this trip. A lot. Possibly too much for the health of our livers. But once one is embarked on vacation, health concerns get thrown into the wind. There is always time for temperance when we come home (NOT!). Funny thing was we never, ever, got anything resembling a hang-over.</i>
As we wandered back towards the Campo area we saw this little café with tables on the street. A table was available and we sat in <b>Camiei di’ San Eustachio</b>. I was debating whether to order a glass of white or red wine when DH had the most brilliant idea! He ordered a spritz. ‘But we are not in Venice!’ I thought (as if drinks were limited to be had in certain places), but somehow it seemed just right. Two beautiful (they were not that great, really, but they looked damned nice at the time!) stem glasses filled with golden orange deliciousness were (not very promptly) brought. A coke for DD and sparkling water to share were also ordered and a plate of little dough fritters topped with tomato sauce was brought. I’m pretty sure they were nothing special but when one is jetlagged, is having a drink on an empty stomach and feeling pretty good about life in general, they tasted really good. 20E.
<b><i> Our first dinner in Rome: pizza, why not?</i></b>
We were doing pretty well with jetlag but were not in the mood for a huge meal and I don’t think we would have been at our most receptive for a high culinary experience so we all agreed that a pizza would be about perfect.
We had seen Pizza Ré earlier in the afternoon so that was an easy decision to make. This is what we ordered:
- One pizza Forte (olives, fresh mozzarella, and a lot of other stuff)
- One pizza Montanara (arthichokes, prosciutto and things I cant remember)
- One pizza Prosciutto Crudo
- One bottle of wine – Casa del Giglio Merlot
- One liter of sparkling water
- Two cokes
The crusts were tasty, thin and crunchy, the pizzas had just the right amount of ingredients without being overpowering, the knifes provided actually cut through the dough, the wine was pleasing…yes, life was good.
DD got her first Italian gelato (Vanilla and Strawberry) from Blu Ice (2.50E) as we walked back to the apartment. Her eyes widened as she had her first taste: What is this texture? How do they manage to do creamy and light? Why does it taste like actual fruit? She asked. (Have I raised that girl properly or what?!?!)
<b><i> The first whiff of trouble</i></b>
It was almost 10:30 when we made it back to the apartment. I noticed a slight smell but did not pay much attention to it. DD had first-called the bathroom so she had her shower while we settled into the apartment and unpacked a few things. By the time DH and I had had our showers, DD came out of her room and told DH that she thought there was something dead in her room.
DH went over and proceeded to half dismantle the built-in closet without finding where the smell was coming from. Since the door was open the smell had sort of dissipated and he mostly thought that DD was exaggerating. She eventually laid down to sleep.
<b><i>Next: Why is she sleeping the living room? Is this heat seasonable? Three churches and ancient Rome</b></i>
After completing all of our arrival routines we were free to go at around 6:30PM and we headed into nearby Campo de Fiori with the intention of following (more or less) Rick Steve’s Night Walk (I will talk a little more about my experience with Mr. Steves’ books later).
The apartment is in the Ghetto and though it’s advertised as Campo de Fiori, the 90-second walk and crossing of a street into the ‘official’ Campo area is not enough for me to claim being misled. Actually, it worked out better because this area is a lot quieter in the evening than the rowdier Campo.
As we walked through the Campo I began to have a generalized feeling of well-being (who am I kidding, I was doing the internal happy dance!), I was in ROME! Furthermore, I was LIKING ROME. Then we walked into Piazza Navona in the golden sunlight of early evening… there was no trash, minimal hawkers, it was not too awfully crowded and had a vibrant but relaxing ambiance. Was this the same city I had hated the first time around?
Let me go back 10 years for a moment. DH-to-be and I were having our first extended vacation together, 21 days winging-it in Italy. We had been traveling through the Tuscan countryside, staying in small cozy hotels and having quiet dinners in unnamed restaurants when, bang! We drove into Rome. Only kilometers of warehouses, hookers and truckers to be seen coming into the city. We had no hotel reservations and we had a car. We managed and still had a great time, but my impression of Rome was that it was chaotic, dirty and most certainly, not user-friendly. Needless to say, this was in the p.F. age (Pre-Fodor’s).
With that experience I had specifically planned to go to Rome first on this trip so that there would be not be a let-down after a place we really liked, it should only improve from there, right? My impression was that the city had been pressure-washed from top to bottom and armies of garbage collectors hired. There was some debris on the street, but not more than in other place. This will contrast with my experience of Florence, but I digress too much.
I still think that Rome is not user-friendly but this time I was READY. I was armed with the knowledge and misadventures of countless Fodorites!
<b><i>From Piazza Navona to the Fontana di Trevi</i></b>
We enjoyed the 4 Rivers Fountain and since the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone was open, we went in. I had just finished reading ‘The Genius in the Design’ a book about the rivalry between Bernini and Borromini so I was able to appreciate what I was seeing at a more profound level.
We wandered through the pedestrian area towards the Pantheon. It was just as magnificent as I remembered. The sun was shining through the oculus and casting beautiful shadows on the coffered vault. What a wondrous building!
Our walk continued to the Trevi fountain, it was still daylight which steals a little of its thunder, but DD was properly impressed. There were a lot of people (is it ever empty?) but it was manageable. I gave her a coin and told her about returning to Rome. She replied the she was not throwing it in; she did not want to return to Rome, she was simply not leaving.
We people watched for about half and hour. There was a young girl, maybe 6 or 7 years old, hitching up her dress and walking into the fountain. She jumped in from the stones in the back next to the water, waddled around for a few moments, jumped right back up and waited to see if anyone would tell her not to do it again. No one did so the cycle was repeated multiple times. It was rather hilarious to watch.
Well, in the end DD did throw her coin in, she said it was cheap insurance in case she could not run away from us and we forced her to return home. And then it was time for one of our all-time favorite activities…Cocktail Hour! Nothing beats sipping a drink while watching the world and its people go by. This activity will be referred to hence fore as WUI and will be repeated on a daily basis for the next 20 days.
<b><i> Watching under the Influence</i></b>
<i>Disclaimer: We drank a lot on this trip. A lot. Possibly too much for the health of our livers. But once one is embarked on vacation, health concerns get thrown into the wind. There is always time for temperance when we come home (NOT!). Funny thing was we never, ever, got anything resembling a hang-over.</i>
As we wandered back towards the Campo area we saw this little café with tables on the street. A table was available and we sat in <b>Camiei di’ San Eustachio</b>. I was debating whether to order a glass of white or red wine when DH had the most brilliant idea! He ordered a spritz. ‘But we are not in Venice!’ I thought (as if drinks were limited to be had in certain places), but somehow it seemed just right. Two beautiful (they were not that great, really, but they looked damned nice at the time!) stem glasses filled with golden orange deliciousness were (not very promptly) brought. A coke for DD and sparkling water to share were also ordered and a plate of little dough fritters topped with tomato sauce was brought. I’m pretty sure they were nothing special but when one is jetlagged, is having a drink on an empty stomach and feeling pretty good about life in general, they tasted really good. 20E.
<b><i> Our first dinner in Rome: pizza, why not?</i></b>
We were doing pretty well with jetlag but were not in the mood for a huge meal and I don’t think we would have been at our most receptive for a high culinary experience so we all agreed that a pizza would be about perfect.
We had seen Pizza Ré earlier in the afternoon so that was an easy decision to make. This is what we ordered:
- One pizza Forte (olives, fresh mozzarella, and a lot of other stuff)
- One pizza Montanara (arthichokes, prosciutto and things I cant remember)
- One pizza Prosciutto Crudo
- One bottle of wine – Casa del Giglio Merlot
- One liter of sparkling water
- Two cokes
The crusts were tasty, thin and crunchy, the pizzas had just the right amount of ingredients without being overpowering, the knifes provided actually cut through the dough, the wine was pleasing…yes, life was good.
DD got her first Italian gelato (Vanilla and Strawberry) from Blu Ice (2.50E) as we walked back to the apartment. Her eyes widened as she had her first taste: What is this texture? How do they manage to do creamy and light? Why does it taste like actual fruit? She asked. (Have I raised that girl properly or what?!?!)
<b><i> The first whiff of trouble</i></b>
It was almost 10:30 when we made it back to the apartment. I noticed a slight smell but did not pay much attention to it. DD had first-called the bathroom so she had her shower while we settled into the apartment and unpacked a few things. By the time DH and I had had our showers, DD came out of her room and told DH that she thought there was something dead in her room.
DH went over and proceeded to half dismantle the built-in closet without finding where the smell was coming from. Since the door was open the smell had sort of dissipated and he mostly thought that DD was exaggerating. She eventually laid down to sleep.
<b><i>Next: Why is she sleeping the living room? Is this heat seasonable? Three churches and ancient Rome</b></i>
