Ciao Bella! DD’s 1st Italian Trip or How we ate our way through Italy
Jun 13th, 2009, 04:08 AM
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<i>"Needless to say, this was in the p.F. age (Pre-Fodor’s)."</i> Very clever! 
We've also had a sewage issue in a Rome apartment. Our smell was coming from the shower drain, so clever DH simply covered the drain with a cup when it wasn't in use. Hope yours resolved just as easily.
<i>"Her eyes widened as she had her first taste."</i> Nothing beats that first taste, does it?
Delightful reading, marigross!
We've also had a sewage issue in a Rome apartment. Our smell was coming from the shower drain, so clever DH simply covered the drain with a cup when it wasn't in use. Hope yours resolved just as easily.
<i>"Her eyes widened as she had her first taste."</i> Nothing beats that first taste, does it?
Delightful reading, marigross!
Jun 13th, 2009, 10:29 AM
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<b>Thursday, May 21 - Day 2: Ancient Rome and a few Early Christian Churches</b>
<i><b>But we are not in Denmark….what IS that smell?!?! </i></b>
We had no alarm clock except for DD’s Ipod and throughout the trip she was in charge of waking us up. I know that this might sound bizarre to most parents of 16yr olds but she is a light sleeper and pretty good about waking up so it worked out (about 85% of the time).
The alarm was set for 8:00. I must honestly acknowledge that I indeed heard a faint ‘Maaaaaawkup’ which I mostly ignored. An hour later I finally got the connection between mind and body to work again and told DH to wakeup (with the expected result that it would give me at least 15 more minutes to sleep while he was in the bathroom). As he walked out of the room I could hear him ask, presumably to DD (who else would it be) ‘Why are you sleeping in the sofa?’ which immediately jolted my brain-to-feet connection and got me out of bed. I heard her reply ‘It stinks in that room’. Thanks to my prompt transition to the vertical position I was able to see when he opened the door to the small room. And quickly closed it. OMG. It was a sweet, sickening smell that was really unbearable.
The first reaction was naturally: Call the owner! But there was no available phone so we agreed to take DDs clothes out of the room, keep the door closed, and see to breakfast. We would call the owner when we found a payphone (yeah, right…but hindsight is 20/20).
We walked to the campo and got breakfast supplies (13.40):
-prosciutto
- salami
-taleggio
- 3 small breads
- milk
- pear juice
- water
<i><b>Tre cafe, per piacere. </i></b>
The next step into our leisurely apartment breakfast was to make coffee. We took out the coffee maker and when we tilted it to find out how it worked spilled water all over – the tank had been full. Yuk. Ok… we were not using that coffee maker. We looked around the cabinets but here was no traditional coffee maker (the always reliable kind where you unscrew the top and bottom). OKAY. Lets then make Turkish-style coffee (the kind where you pour the hot water over the coffee flour and try your best not to stir the bottom).
Good plan, but that requires turning on the stove. We turned, and poked but could not hear the pilot click. Do we need matches? Is the gas on? We found and fumbled with the gas key (we are not complete inexperienced idiots – just unlucky ones). Twist and push, push and twist, turn without pushing…Nothing!
A thought occurred to me at that point, twisting my stomach with anxiety and fear of failure: Maybe this apartment rental was not such a good idea!
Abandon coffee plan, we’ll have some on the street (now that was much better idea anyway!).
We then proceeded to demolish two-days worth of cheese and ham. The taleggio cheese was divine: creamy, not quite runny but learning to crawl, salty and very slightly peppery. The prosciutto was hand-cut and had those thick little borders than you can chew into. The salami was spicy and did not have a greasy feeling. We were full and so pleased with our brunch –by that time it was close to 11:00- that I was ready to forgive all the hardship and frustration.
<i><b>The Plan for today </i></b>
I make ambitious daily plans. Sometimes I succeed and other times I don’t. I am willing to accept that. I try to balance things geographically and chronologically so that the if-we-have-time-and-energy things are at the end of the day. So this was The Plan:
1. San Pietro in Vincoli
2. Santa Maria Maggiore
3. Colosseo / Foro
4. San Clemente
5. San Giovani Laterano
<i><b>The Plan execution </i></b>
The late start threw my plan into immediate disarray. I had thought to go to the two churches first and then go to the Foro but now I was not sure that I would have time to do everything I wanted! Humm… immediate reprogramming, compiling and a modified version of The Plan was created: Tackle the Foro first, Colosseo second, then go to San Pietro in Vincoli and at point assess the rest of the day.
We walked out of the apartment and almost immediately (less than 150 meters) walked past Piazza Mattei and the Turtle Fountain. Somehow it made me very happy… I was in ROME! Everywhere you go you stumble into marvels great and small.
Ten minutes of walking through delightful little streets and peeking into interesting courtyards and we were by the steps to the Campidoglio and our first street-crossing (otherwise know as playing-chicken-with-drivers event) came up. A quick evaluation trying to establish which route would result in the least possible crossings was performed and we set out.
When I detected a small, almost negligible, break in the traffic I stepped into the street. I was not-so-surprised to see at the same time DD walking past me into the street with the supreme confidence and inherent perception of immortality of a teenager. Most cars stopped (naturally), others just veered around us (inevitable) and then it happened… the very first of many to come! I barely heard it as it was only intended for the recipient…I’m sure only another mother would have heard it too: <i><b>Ciao Bella! </i></b>
DD was grinning, but only after the guy had passed, he only received a slightly aloof glance in return. Damn. She is good at this. Really good. I know because I might have called myself a flirter in my single days. OMG. Was going this trip a smart thing? Taking a slightly boy-crazy, pheromone exuding, and flirtatious 16yr female into a country of extremely handsome, vespa-riding, cool-dressing, appreciative males of all ages? As all mothers know, at this point you can only pray.
Once we were safely on the other side we climbed the gazillion steps up to the <i><b>Piazza del Campidoglio</i></b> and on to the back where there is a picture-perfect view of the Foro below.
We went into the <i><b>Mamertine Prision</i></b> (no formal fee but there is a manned collection box at the entrance). Vercingetorix was beheaded here after Cesar’s triumph. Legend has it that St. Peter and Paul were imprisoned here. Good for trivia, definitely not a place we need to return to. We all enjoyed the cool air inside more than anything to be seen in the place.
<i><b>A side note about the weather</i></b>
It was hot. Very hot! Hot as being in the upper 90ºF’s. At least in our perception it was dry, but that is only because we live in Puerto Rico where the humidity is never below 80%. Romans were suffocating. This pattern was sustained for more than a week and I must admit that it made a dent on our stamina.
I made solemn promises to myself: I will do my best never get into a situation where I find myself in Rome in August. I will not be tempted by low airfare or great discounts on accommodations. Because if this was May…August must resemble Hell’s Waiting Room.
The sun was blazing and there was not a cloud in the sky. I had only applied basic sunscreen but this was akin to a full day on the beach. Even though I’m an olive-skinned, Caribbean mutt my skin gets burnt just as if I had been born in a Nordic country from 100% pure Caucasian parents. Not even Swiss DH burns like I do! I hate to be in the sun so this did not fare well.
The one good thing about the heat: Even though we drank tons of water during the day, we evaporated most of it through the skin so the Bathroom Quest in which we women are perpetually engaged on did not take precedence over The Plan as it often does.
<i><b>The Roma Pass</i></b>
In the I-should-have, I-could-have world, I would have bought my Roma Passes in the airport or even ordered them online. Well, I didn’t. Since The Plan had been reshuffled we found ourselves by the main entrance to the Forum without passes. In the original plan I would have gotten them by the Palatine entrance.
There were about 20 people in the line in front of us. We saw a couple walking out with their passes and we asked how long it taken. He said about 30 minutes because the line was short but very slow. But not to even consider going elsewhere because it was really bad at the other locations he had tried.
OK, we would have to wait in line. No need for all of us to stand in the sun, so DH got the first shift while DD and I sat in the shade. 15 minutes later I went so that he could rest. The sun was blazing and I did not have an umbrella to use as a parasol. Not good.
You know what I absolutely love about being 40? I don’t care if I look foolish, unstylish or just plain weird. Not that I ever cared much, but now it is not even a consideration. Don’t take me wrong, I much prefer to look good but I am not willing to undergo pain or suffering to achieve it. So I took out my scarf and half wrapped it around my shoulders and head to make a tent. Much better.
The line was really slow. It was the same line to get audio guides and they had to explain to everyone how to use them and the changes to the numbering code when they went over to the Palatine.
Finally, it was my turn and bought the three passes. 23E each, only cash. I could not make the best possible use of them over the three consecutive days because I had to move the ‘Vatican Day’ in between because they would be closed on Thursday May 21st. This had completely screwed up my plan, but I don’t think the Vatican authorities took that into consideration. They still turned out to be a great investment.
It did take 30 minutes and the line behind us was a lot longer than when we started. I would estimate about 50 people. My recommendation: don’t procrastinate and get these beforehand.
<i><b>Into ancient Rome</i></b>
I had endlessly debated whether to arrange for a guided tour of the <b>Foro Romano</b> or if I would be okay on my own. After all I was armed with tons of info and two guidebooks. A guided tour would have forced us to stay on schedule – which is a good thing but a bad thing too. I had decided self-guide. The result? It was okay. Not excellent or memorable. We saw, I read aloud from the book, they listened and asked questions. To some I knew the answers but to many I did not. Next time I will get a guide.
After following the recommended walk on the Rome Green Michelin Guide (which is exactly the same as in Rick Steve’s Rome book) we climbed up the steep hill to the </b>Palatine Hill</b>. Thankfully there was a fountain at the top and we could drink our fill of the deliciously cold water and refill our bottles.
Even though I had been here before, I thought that this time around it was a lot nicer and with many more things to see. Still, I think that a guide would have improved the experience significantly. On the other hand, the heat and sun were taking their toll so we cut the visit short and headed of to the <b>Coloseo</b>.
We walked past the dressed-up gladiators with their swaggering/hawking stance. Photo? Foto Signora? Ciao, fotooooo?!?! You and me? Me and You? Us? Altogether? It was hilarious and became a much repeated phrase throughout the trip.
Boy, did that Roma Pass pay off! The line was long (not quite horribly, impossibly long; but it was in the sun). After showing the ticket we were able to completely bypass the line.
We walked around a little, did the full circle, took some pictures, read from the book but DD was visibly wilting. And I must confess that since I had been there before, I was ready to call it quits. We were done in less than half an hour.
Once DD had extracted a firm promise to be sat and fed before we went into any other place, she was willing to walk in the general direction of the next destination listed on The Plan: San Pietro in Vincoli.
First, we stopped at the aptly named Café S. Pietro in Vincoli. DH secured an outside but shady table while we ordered inside (10E):
- mozzarella and pomodoro panini (rather large, very good and perfectly toasted)
- 2 peach-flavored water (could have doubled as aromatherapy, they were so fragrant!)
I suddenly realized that I had not had my morning coffee and had a slight headache. But it was too hot for coffee so I decided to take my chaces.
<i><b>Emerging into the Renaissance</i></b>
After resting our weary feet and cooling down in the shade we were ready to continue. Along the way we had consulted the map but the steady stream of umbrella-led tours between the Coloseo and the church was enough to guide us.
To the non-devout the main attraction of <b>San Pietro in Vincoli</b> is Michaelangelo’s sculpture of <b>Moses</b> made for the tomb of Pope Julius II, the bane of the artist’s life. For the average pilgrim the jointed set of chains which allegedly bound San Peter in Jerusalem and in Rome would be the main event.
In preparation for this trip I had read –I will post the rather extensive reading list separately- <u>The Agony and the Ecstasy</u> and <u>The Pope’s Ceiling</u> in both which this tomb was featured prominently. Visiting this statue was a must-do for this trip.
Moses barely sits on his chair, ready to jump into action. How can an inanimate object shimmer with pent-up energy and vitality? This is a true leader, a man at his prime, an alpha male and no question about it. Where he leads, I would most likely follow. The skin! Why am I almost ready to believe that it would be soft to the touch? Thousands of books have been written on this subject so I will not elaborate except to say that it did not disappoint.
The rest of the church is rather interesting too. The chains are displayed under the altar. There are a few tombs featuring statues of winged Death, sickle and all. Cool in a morbid kind of way.
<i><b>Let’s try for one more church…</i></b>
It was barely 4:00 in the afternoon and the cool church had been a revitalizing oasis. I assessed the group and determined that they did not look ready to collapse within the next few seconds so I decided to carry on with The Plan.
We walked over to the <b>Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore</b>. The back of the church is impressive enough that when we got there I mistook it for the front and panicked that it closed. DH popped into a hotel and asked the concierge who immediately re-directed us to the front. WOW. This was DDs first big-time church. It opened her eyes to an entirely new architectural world! It remained favorite church for almost the entire trip but towards the end it fell grudgingly to the #2 place (more on that later).
If you have not been in this place, dig up your old Rome guide books or google it up. This is certainly worth a detour. We walked around in amazement while the gorgeous afternoon sunlight poured in from the clerestory windows illuminating the golden interior. Breathtaking.
On the trivia side, the gold used for the coffers supposedly comes from the very first incoming shipment from Peru gifted by the Catholic king to Pope Alexander VI. I guess this is the equivalent of blood diamonds. But dwelling on the ethical issue subtracts from aesthetical enjoyment so I will let the matter rest.
The church was not packed with people so we were able to move comfortably around. We visited Bernini’s tomb and then took a quick look under the chancel to see the urn with fragments from the Nativity crib. There were a couple of persons actually praying (an activity almost unheard of at the more popular churches) and this little space did have a sense of specialness to it. The almost overpowering statue of pope Pius IX kneels in perpetual adoration.
<i><b>To quit or not to quit?</i></b>
It was 5:30 in the afternoon. Churches remain open until 7:00PM. Perhaps we had time for one more church. DD looked energized, DH looked as if he would survive. This time I actually verbalized the question: One more? The response: Okay, as long as we don’t have to walk too much.
The Metro map came out and we saw that we were rather close to the Vittorio station (Red Line) which would take us all the way to San Giovanni in Laterano. The matter was settled and we took off.
The Roma pass includes a transportation pass which is valid for three days. We made good use of it. I don’t know why we had not used the metro on our prior visit! Less than 15 minutes later we were in the San Giovanni stop.
If one excludes Saint Peter’s on account of sheer grandeur and status, <b>San Giovanni in Laterano</b>is a strong contender for the most impressive church in Rome. But I am somewhat biased because I particularly like the early Christian basilica style. This was the first seat of the Holy Mother Church. It stands tall and proud, with clean lines and luminous interior.
It was remodeled by Borromini but heavy restrictions –had to keep the ceiling- were placed by the pope to ensure that it retained some of its character. At that time people were still scandalized over the ‘desecration’ of the old Saint Peters.
We walked around admiring the art until we were kicked out at 7:00. I could have spent some more time in there!
So it was way past Cocktail Hour, we were tired, still jetlagged and knew that we would crash shortly after dinner. We preferred to find a place to eat close to apartment.
The Apartment. Oh! Have we seen a payphone today? Not a single one.
We went back into the metro, rode to Termini station, squeezed into the #40 bus (it was slightly less full than the #64 buses which passed by) and got off at Campo de Fiori.
<i><b>There is always time to WUI</i></b>
We arrived to the Campo shortly before 7:30, early to eat by Roman standards. We were tired but knew that we must push to stay awake so that we could get over the last few shreds of jetlag. Naturally the best way to pass the time is to WUI also known as people-watching while comfortably imbibing.
A quick look around revealed that most places in which we could sit were setting up for dinner and drink-only guests were not being welcomed. We walked a few more steps and found a place called Baccanale where we quickly and ungraciously plummeted into the chairs.
Cool white wine does wonders for my mood! DH had a glass of red, DD had a coke. We watched kids play, dogs run after pigeons, couples meeting, regular people taking a little passagiata…. Until 8:00 when we knew that we must get moving or risk falling asleep in a bar without having dinner.
I pulled up my carefully compiled list of Fodorite-recommended restaurants and after a brief triangulation established that our best bet was Ditirambo so we headed that way.
<i><b>The First ‘Real’ Meal</i></b>
We found <b>Ditirambo</b> after a few false starts and a walk-in-circles-around-the-target. We had no reservations and I think we took the last available table at 8:20. This is what we had:
Primi
DD- Tagliatele with Seafood: Served in a thick white wine and sauce. No cream but very velvety. It was clearly the winning dish of the night.
DH and I – Asparagus risotto, served over a cheesy creamy sauce. Delicious
Secondi
DH – Osso Bucco: He was expecting a red tomato sauce and got a lemony, creamy sauce. Could be a summer version of the dish. It was good, but it was not a fall-of-the-bone Osso Bucco. He was rather disappointed.
Me – Trio of Bacala: Grilled Fresh Codfish Filet served over a tiny salad, Dried Codfish on a tomato sauce and Fried, lightly battered Codfish filet. Grilled one was the best, the tomato sauce was a bit too acidy and only lukewarm. The fritto was good.
House Red Wine (Open Carafe) 1.5L, Acqua Frizzante 1L, two café machiatti.
At 77Euros I found the meal to be a great value.
<i><b>The Return to the Apartment</i></b>
We opened the front door with some trepidation and took cautious whiffs. Not bad, a very faint smell could be detected if you know what to smell for. DH made the mistake of opening the door to the small room. Bad Idea. DD setup to sleep again in the living room sofa bed after we all agreed that the door was to remain closed for the duration. We would attempt to contact the owner in the morning.
<b>Next: The Long March, the German Invasion of the Vatican and the Search for Dinner on a Reservation-Less Friday Night. </b>
<i><b>But we are not in Denmark….what IS that smell?!?! </i></b>
We had no alarm clock except for DD’s Ipod and throughout the trip she was in charge of waking us up. I know that this might sound bizarre to most parents of 16yr olds but she is a light sleeper and pretty good about waking up so it worked out (about 85% of the time).
The alarm was set for 8:00. I must honestly acknowledge that I indeed heard a faint ‘Maaaaaawkup’ which I mostly ignored. An hour later I finally got the connection between mind and body to work again and told DH to wakeup (with the expected result that it would give me at least 15 more minutes to sleep while he was in the bathroom). As he walked out of the room I could hear him ask, presumably to DD (who else would it be) ‘Why are you sleeping in the sofa?’ which immediately jolted my brain-to-feet connection and got me out of bed. I heard her reply ‘It stinks in that room’. Thanks to my prompt transition to the vertical position I was able to see when he opened the door to the small room. And quickly closed it. OMG. It was a sweet, sickening smell that was really unbearable.
The first reaction was naturally: Call the owner! But there was no available phone so we agreed to take DDs clothes out of the room, keep the door closed, and see to breakfast. We would call the owner when we found a payphone (yeah, right…but hindsight is 20/20).
We walked to the campo and got breakfast supplies (13.40):
-prosciutto
- salami
-taleggio
- 3 small breads
- milk
- pear juice
- water
<i><b>Tre cafe, per piacere. </i></b>
The next step into our leisurely apartment breakfast was to make coffee. We took out the coffee maker and when we tilted it to find out how it worked spilled water all over – the tank had been full. Yuk. Ok… we were not using that coffee maker. We looked around the cabinets but here was no traditional coffee maker (the always reliable kind where you unscrew the top and bottom). OKAY. Lets then make Turkish-style coffee (the kind where you pour the hot water over the coffee flour and try your best not to stir the bottom).
Good plan, but that requires turning on the stove. We turned, and poked but could not hear the pilot click. Do we need matches? Is the gas on? We found and fumbled with the gas key (we are not complete inexperienced idiots – just unlucky ones). Twist and push, push and twist, turn without pushing…Nothing!
A thought occurred to me at that point, twisting my stomach with anxiety and fear of failure: Maybe this apartment rental was not such a good idea!
Abandon coffee plan, we’ll have some on the street (now that was much better idea anyway!).
We then proceeded to demolish two-days worth of cheese and ham. The taleggio cheese was divine: creamy, not quite runny but learning to crawl, salty and very slightly peppery. The prosciutto was hand-cut and had those thick little borders than you can chew into. The salami was spicy and did not have a greasy feeling. We were full and so pleased with our brunch –by that time it was close to 11:00- that I was ready to forgive all the hardship and frustration.
<i><b>The Plan for today </i></b>
I make ambitious daily plans. Sometimes I succeed and other times I don’t. I am willing to accept that. I try to balance things geographically and chronologically so that the if-we-have-time-and-energy things are at the end of the day. So this was The Plan:
1. San Pietro in Vincoli
2. Santa Maria Maggiore
3. Colosseo / Foro
4. San Clemente
5. San Giovani Laterano
<i><b>The Plan execution </i></b>
The late start threw my plan into immediate disarray. I had thought to go to the two churches first and then go to the Foro but now I was not sure that I would have time to do everything I wanted! Humm… immediate reprogramming, compiling and a modified version of The Plan was created: Tackle the Foro first, Colosseo second, then go to San Pietro in Vincoli and at point assess the rest of the day.
We walked out of the apartment and almost immediately (less than 150 meters) walked past Piazza Mattei and the Turtle Fountain. Somehow it made me very happy… I was in ROME! Everywhere you go you stumble into marvels great and small.
Ten minutes of walking through delightful little streets and peeking into interesting courtyards and we were by the steps to the Campidoglio and our first street-crossing (otherwise know as playing-chicken-with-drivers event) came up. A quick evaluation trying to establish which route would result in the least possible crossings was performed and we set out.
When I detected a small, almost negligible, break in the traffic I stepped into the street. I was not-so-surprised to see at the same time DD walking past me into the street with the supreme confidence and inherent perception of immortality of a teenager. Most cars stopped (naturally), others just veered around us (inevitable) and then it happened… the very first of many to come! I barely heard it as it was only intended for the recipient…I’m sure only another mother would have heard it too: <i><b>Ciao Bella! </i></b>
DD was grinning, but only after the guy had passed, he only received a slightly aloof glance in return. Damn. She is good at this. Really good. I know because I might have called myself a flirter in my single days. OMG. Was going this trip a smart thing? Taking a slightly boy-crazy, pheromone exuding, and flirtatious 16yr female into a country of extremely handsome, vespa-riding, cool-dressing, appreciative males of all ages? As all mothers know, at this point you can only pray.
Once we were safely on the other side we climbed the gazillion steps up to the <i><b>Piazza del Campidoglio</i></b> and on to the back where there is a picture-perfect view of the Foro below.
We went into the <i><b>Mamertine Prision</i></b> (no formal fee but there is a manned collection box at the entrance). Vercingetorix was beheaded here after Cesar’s triumph. Legend has it that St. Peter and Paul were imprisoned here. Good for trivia, definitely not a place we need to return to. We all enjoyed the cool air inside more than anything to be seen in the place.
<i><b>A side note about the weather</i></b>
It was hot. Very hot! Hot as being in the upper 90ºF’s. At least in our perception it was dry, but that is only because we live in Puerto Rico where the humidity is never below 80%. Romans were suffocating. This pattern was sustained for more than a week and I must admit that it made a dent on our stamina.
I made solemn promises to myself: I will do my best never get into a situation where I find myself in Rome in August. I will not be tempted by low airfare or great discounts on accommodations. Because if this was May…August must resemble Hell’s Waiting Room.
The sun was blazing and there was not a cloud in the sky. I had only applied basic sunscreen but this was akin to a full day on the beach. Even though I’m an olive-skinned, Caribbean mutt my skin gets burnt just as if I had been born in a Nordic country from 100% pure Caucasian parents. Not even Swiss DH burns like I do! I hate to be in the sun so this did not fare well.
The one good thing about the heat: Even though we drank tons of water during the day, we evaporated most of it through the skin so the Bathroom Quest in which we women are perpetually engaged on did not take precedence over The Plan as it often does.
<i><b>The Roma Pass</i></b>
In the I-should-have, I-could-have world, I would have bought my Roma Passes in the airport or even ordered them online. Well, I didn’t. Since The Plan had been reshuffled we found ourselves by the main entrance to the Forum without passes. In the original plan I would have gotten them by the Palatine entrance.
There were about 20 people in the line in front of us. We saw a couple walking out with their passes and we asked how long it taken. He said about 30 minutes because the line was short but very slow. But not to even consider going elsewhere because it was really bad at the other locations he had tried.
OK, we would have to wait in line. No need for all of us to stand in the sun, so DH got the first shift while DD and I sat in the shade. 15 minutes later I went so that he could rest. The sun was blazing and I did not have an umbrella to use as a parasol. Not good.
You know what I absolutely love about being 40? I don’t care if I look foolish, unstylish or just plain weird. Not that I ever cared much, but now it is not even a consideration. Don’t take me wrong, I much prefer to look good but I am not willing to undergo pain or suffering to achieve it. So I took out my scarf and half wrapped it around my shoulders and head to make a tent. Much better.
The line was really slow. It was the same line to get audio guides and they had to explain to everyone how to use them and the changes to the numbering code when they went over to the Palatine.
Finally, it was my turn and bought the three passes. 23E each, only cash. I could not make the best possible use of them over the three consecutive days because I had to move the ‘Vatican Day’ in between because they would be closed on Thursday May 21st. This had completely screwed up my plan, but I don’t think the Vatican authorities took that into consideration. They still turned out to be a great investment.
It did take 30 minutes and the line behind us was a lot longer than when we started. I would estimate about 50 people. My recommendation: don’t procrastinate and get these beforehand.
<i><b>Into ancient Rome</i></b>
I had endlessly debated whether to arrange for a guided tour of the <b>Foro Romano</b> or if I would be okay on my own. After all I was armed with tons of info and two guidebooks. A guided tour would have forced us to stay on schedule – which is a good thing but a bad thing too. I had decided self-guide. The result? It was okay. Not excellent or memorable. We saw, I read aloud from the book, they listened and asked questions. To some I knew the answers but to many I did not. Next time I will get a guide.
After following the recommended walk on the Rome Green Michelin Guide (which is exactly the same as in Rick Steve’s Rome book) we climbed up the steep hill to the </b>Palatine Hill</b>. Thankfully there was a fountain at the top and we could drink our fill of the deliciously cold water and refill our bottles.
Even though I had been here before, I thought that this time around it was a lot nicer and with many more things to see. Still, I think that a guide would have improved the experience significantly. On the other hand, the heat and sun were taking their toll so we cut the visit short and headed of to the <b>Coloseo</b>.
We walked past the dressed-up gladiators with their swaggering/hawking stance. Photo? Foto Signora? Ciao, fotooooo?!?! You and me? Me and You? Us? Altogether? It was hilarious and became a much repeated phrase throughout the trip.
Boy, did that Roma Pass pay off! The line was long (not quite horribly, impossibly long; but it was in the sun). After showing the ticket we were able to completely bypass the line.
We walked around a little, did the full circle, took some pictures, read from the book but DD was visibly wilting. And I must confess that since I had been there before, I was ready to call it quits. We were done in less than half an hour.
Once DD had extracted a firm promise to be sat and fed before we went into any other place, she was willing to walk in the general direction of the next destination listed on The Plan: San Pietro in Vincoli.
First, we stopped at the aptly named Café S. Pietro in Vincoli. DH secured an outside but shady table while we ordered inside (10E):
- mozzarella and pomodoro panini (rather large, very good and perfectly toasted)
- 2 peach-flavored water (could have doubled as aromatherapy, they were so fragrant!)
I suddenly realized that I had not had my morning coffee and had a slight headache. But it was too hot for coffee so I decided to take my chaces.
<i><b>Emerging into the Renaissance</i></b>
After resting our weary feet and cooling down in the shade we were ready to continue. Along the way we had consulted the map but the steady stream of umbrella-led tours between the Coloseo and the church was enough to guide us.
To the non-devout the main attraction of <b>San Pietro in Vincoli</b> is Michaelangelo’s sculpture of <b>Moses</b> made for the tomb of Pope Julius II, the bane of the artist’s life. For the average pilgrim the jointed set of chains which allegedly bound San Peter in Jerusalem and in Rome would be the main event.
In preparation for this trip I had read –I will post the rather extensive reading list separately- <u>The Agony and the Ecstasy</u> and <u>The Pope’s Ceiling</u> in both which this tomb was featured prominently. Visiting this statue was a must-do for this trip.
Moses barely sits on his chair, ready to jump into action. How can an inanimate object shimmer with pent-up energy and vitality? This is a true leader, a man at his prime, an alpha male and no question about it. Where he leads, I would most likely follow. The skin! Why am I almost ready to believe that it would be soft to the touch? Thousands of books have been written on this subject so I will not elaborate except to say that it did not disappoint.
The rest of the church is rather interesting too. The chains are displayed under the altar. There are a few tombs featuring statues of winged Death, sickle and all. Cool in a morbid kind of way.
<i><b>Let’s try for one more church…</i></b>
It was barely 4:00 in the afternoon and the cool church had been a revitalizing oasis. I assessed the group and determined that they did not look ready to collapse within the next few seconds so I decided to carry on with The Plan.
We walked over to the <b>Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore</b>. The back of the church is impressive enough that when we got there I mistook it for the front and panicked that it closed. DH popped into a hotel and asked the concierge who immediately re-directed us to the front. WOW. This was DDs first big-time church. It opened her eyes to an entirely new architectural world! It remained favorite church for almost the entire trip but towards the end it fell grudgingly to the #2 place (more on that later).
If you have not been in this place, dig up your old Rome guide books or google it up. This is certainly worth a detour. We walked around in amazement while the gorgeous afternoon sunlight poured in from the clerestory windows illuminating the golden interior. Breathtaking.
On the trivia side, the gold used for the coffers supposedly comes from the very first incoming shipment from Peru gifted by the Catholic king to Pope Alexander VI. I guess this is the equivalent of blood diamonds. But dwelling on the ethical issue subtracts from aesthetical enjoyment so I will let the matter rest.
The church was not packed with people so we were able to move comfortably around. We visited Bernini’s tomb and then took a quick look under the chancel to see the urn with fragments from the Nativity crib. There were a couple of persons actually praying (an activity almost unheard of at the more popular churches) and this little space did have a sense of specialness to it. The almost overpowering statue of pope Pius IX kneels in perpetual adoration.
<i><b>To quit or not to quit?</i></b>
It was 5:30 in the afternoon. Churches remain open until 7:00PM. Perhaps we had time for one more church. DD looked energized, DH looked as if he would survive. This time I actually verbalized the question: One more? The response: Okay, as long as we don’t have to walk too much.
The Metro map came out and we saw that we were rather close to the Vittorio station (Red Line) which would take us all the way to San Giovanni in Laterano. The matter was settled and we took off.
The Roma pass includes a transportation pass which is valid for three days. We made good use of it. I don’t know why we had not used the metro on our prior visit! Less than 15 minutes later we were in the San Giovanni stop.
If one excludes Saint Peter’s on account of sheer grandeur and status, <b>San Giovanni in Laterano</b>is a strong contender for the most impressive church in Rome. But I am somewhat biased because I particularly like the early Christian basilica style. This was the first seat of the Holy Mother Church. It stands tall and proud, with clean lines and luminous interior.
It was remodeled by Borromini but heavy restrictions –had to keep the ceiling- were placed by the pope to ensure that it retained some of its character. At that time people were still scandalized over the ‘desecration’ of the old Saint Peters.
We walked around admiring the art until we were kicked out at 7:00. I could have spent some more time in there!
So it was way past Cocktail Hour, we were tired, still jetlagged and knew that we would crash shortly after dinner. We preferred to find a place to eat close to apartment.
The Apartment. Oh! Have we seen a payphone today? Not a single one.
We went back into the metro, rode to Termini station, squeezed into the #40 bus (it was slightly less full than the #64 buses which passed by) and got off at Campo de Fiori.
<i><b>There is always time to WUI</i></b>
We arrived to the Campo shortly before 7:30, early to eat by Roman standards. We were tired but knew that we must push to stay awake so that we could get over the last few shreds of jetlag. Naturally the best way to pass the time is to WUI also known as people-watching while comfortably imbibing.
A quick look around revealed that most places in which we could sit were setting up for dinner and drink-only guests were not being welcomed. We walked a few more steps and found a place called Baccanale where we quickly and ungraciously plummeted into the chairs.
Cool white wine does wonders for my mood! DH had a glass of red, DD had a coke. We watched kids play, dogs run after pigeons, couples meeting, regular people taking a little passagiata…. Until 8:00 when we knew that we must get moving or risk falling asleep in a bar without having dinner.
I pulled up my carefully compiled list of Fodorite-recommended restaurants and after a brief triangulation established that our best bet was Ditirambo so we headed that way.
<i><b>The First ‘Real’ Meal</i></b>
We found <b>Ditirambo</b> after a few false starts and a walk-in-circles-around-the-target. We had no reservations and I think we took the last available table at 8:20. This is what we had:
Primi
DD- Tagliatele with Seafood: Served in a thick white wine and sauce. No cream but very velvety. It was clearly the winning dish of the night.
DH and I – Asparagus risotto, served over a cheesy creamy sauce. Delicious
Secondi
DH – Osso Bucco: He was expecting a red tomato sauce and got a lemony, creamy sauce. Could be a summer version of the dish. It was good, but it was not a fall-of-the-bone Osso Bucco. He was rather disappointed.
Me – Trio of Bacala: Grilled Fresh Codfish Filet served over a tiny salad, Dried Codfish on a tomato sauce and Fried, lightly battered Codfish filet. Grilled one was the best, the tomato sauce was a bit too acidy and only lukewarm. The fritto was good.
House Red Wine (Open Carafe) 1.5L, Acqua Frizzante 1L, two café machiatti.
At 77Euros I found the meal to be a great value.
<i><b>The Return to the Apartment</i></b>
We opened the front door with some trepidation and took cautious whiffs. Not bad, a very faint smell could be detected if you know what to smell for. DH made the mistake of opening the door to the small room. Bad Idea. DD setup to sleep again in the living room sofa bed after we all agreed that the door was to remain closed for the duration. We would attempt to contact the owner in the morning.
<b>Next: The Long March, the German Invasion of the Vatican and the Search for Dinner on a Reservation-Less Friday Night. </b>
Jun 14th, 2009, 12:13 PM
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Thanks to all for the encouragement!!! This is getting a little longer to write than I expected but then, this is a trip I want to remember every detail of.
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<b>Friday, May 22 - Day 3: From Trastevere to the Vatican by the way of Gianicolo</b>
<i><b>Reverse Jetlag </i></b>
I opened my eyes at 4:00AM. Am I crazy or what? This would be my natural going to sleep time at home and here I was, wide awake. What can I tell you? I’m just weird. A little too much vino and café machiatto? Plausible. But reverse jetlag sounds a lot more interesting.
I tossed and turned but there was nothing wrong. The apartment was completely quiet. The bed was sufficiently comfortable. I was not hot but I certainly was not cool either, the A/C in the bedroom did not seem to be quite up to speed. That at least gave me something to do. I cautiously opened the big bedroom door and smelled. Nothing! OK, this was not so bad. I cranked up the A/C in the main living room and left the big bedroom door open. Within a couple of minutes the temperature was cool enough to snuggle up to DH.
<i><b>Making Pretty for the Day </i></b>
DD woke us up at 8:30 this morning. I had run them a bit ragged the day before so I was not going to push for an early start. DH went for supplemental breakfast goodies while we showered and made pretty. Well, if truth be told, DD made pretty because at that moment I made an unprecedented decision which will forever haunt me in the pictures taken but allowed me to survive in relative comfort the rest of the day: I put on a light blue Gap T-Shirt, dark blue Gap skirt (same T-shirt material) and sneakers. Yup. I did that. My only defense: it was seriously hot outside and we would walk many miles this day.
Allow me to elaborate. Even though I’m not a fashionista, I try to dress on the classic side. When I’m on vacation I aim at achieving a look that will not make me stand out in the crowd but will still get me seated at any restaurant I walk into.
I only wear sneakers when I’m exercising (read: not nearly enough) and had only brought a pair because of the walking that we would do in Vernazza. I had packed two other skirts but they were certainly not suitable to wear with sneakers. This particular skirt had been packed on impulse to perhaps wear during long car rides or to have something to change into in the evening. But my sneakers are gray and blue and these clothes were the best possible combination (and I use the term ‘best’ very loosely here).
DD looked at me when I came out of the room dressed as The Tourist and asked if I was going out like that. I said ‘Yes’. She immediately followed up with: ‘With those shoes?’ My quick reply (on a rather flat, firm and final tone): ‘It’s hot and my feet still hurt from yesterday’. She sort of rolled her eyes and did not utter a single word more. Bless her soul. There is hope for this girl!
Side note for the ladies: This is a tip I learned from fellow Fodorites! Lots of ladies refrain from wearing skirts because of inner thigh rub. If you apply antiperspirant to the area which rubs no chaffing will occur. Works great!
<i><b>Second attempt at coffee-making </i></b>
DH arrived with all the goodies and we setup for breakfast. We had finally figured out how to turn on the stove (push and hold without turning until ignition) so we boiled some water for what we thought was instant coffee. Wrong. After all the grains finally settled we wound up drinking Turkish-style coffee. Not very good but at least killed the caffeine need. Addiction is a BAD thing.
I figured I would have decent coffee somewhere along the way. Probably in the place where we found a payphone to call the apartment owner to see what could be done for the stinky room.
<i><b>The Plan for Today </i></b>
Another very ambitious day had been planned:
1. Villa Farnesina
2. San Pietro in Montorio (The Tempietto)
If-we-have-time:
2a. San Francisco Ripa (Bernini’s ecstasy of Ludovica)
2b. Santa Maria in Trastevere
2c. Santa Cecilia
3. The Vatican Museum (pre-purchased tickets for 2:00 PM)
4. St. Peters
I will only say that it looked OK on paper. It actually might have worked if we had been by the gates of Villa Farnesina when they opened at 8:00AM. Needless to say, that was not the case. We walked out of the apartment by 10:30.
<i><b>The Revised Plan</i></b>
1. Villa Farnesina
2. The Vatican Museum
3. St. Peters
<i><b>The Unexpected Neighborhood</i></b>
I intended to go to the Trastevere loosely following Rick Steve’s <b><i>Jewish Ghetto</b></i> Walk. This itinerary starts by the Turtle Fountain, goes thru the Portico d’Ottavia and ends going over the Ponte Fabricio into the Isola Tiberiana. This area was a complete surprise to me. It was bustling with activity and lots of interesting-looking restaurants. I would have browsed through the menus but that 2:00 pre-purchased entrance to the Vatican Museum was already looming over my head.
I wonder why this area is not more actively discussed – well, I know why… when a 4 star location is completely surrounded by 5 star sights it is easy for the place to go unnoticed. To me it seemed that the area was just as browsing-worthy as the Campo de Fiori.
As we walked by the <b><i>The Portico d’Ottavia</b></i> ruins I wondered if Romans even <i>truly see</i> these marvelous things or if their eyes become so accustomed to the evidence of history that the mind just filters it out.
We veered off our walk so that we could go through the little passage next to the <b><i>Teatro di Marcello</b></i>. The top floors of this ancient theater were turned into a palace a couple of centuries after its construction. I thought it was pretty cool and I was rather disappointed with the Green Guide for giving such a brief description of this place.
We finally walked past a public phone but it apparently require some type of calling card which we obviously not had. So, no call to the apartment owner could be made.
<i><b>The Beautiful Palace</i></b>
Once we were on the other side of the river we decided to hop on the bus to try to get as fast as possible to <b><i>Villa Farnesina</b></i>. This was a must-do for this trip. I wanted to see the palace of renaissance banker Agostino Chigi and the art he had commissioned Raphael to produce for him.
I also wanted DD to see this <i>before</i> she went to the Vatican because, really, after you see the ceilings in the musei and the frescoes in the Sistine Chapel, Villa Farnesina might not be that impressive after all.
Entrance was 5E pp and is not covered by Roma Pass. DH asked if he could use the phone to call the apartment owner but apparently it was an out of town number and the clerk refused.
The palace is beautiful. And I was pleased to see that the frescoes were impressive enough. Once again I could have stayed a bit longer but two things did not make it possible: it was 1:00 PM (in the ‘low’ –ha!- season the Villa closes at 1:00PM) and I only had an hour to make to the Vatican Musei. I had –still don’t- no idea of how strongly they enforce the entrance time so I was not willing to be late.
<i><b>The Long March</i></b>
There are multiple transportation options between Villa Farnesina and Vatican City but I thought of a possibility that had been on my wish-list: let’s walk up the <i><b>Gianicolo Hill</i></b>, past the Garibaldi monument and we’ll come straight down into the Vatican City.
This walk did not look so challenging on the map. Why? Because the map does not show elevation. I thought it could easily be done in an hour. I’ll only say that it seemed like a good idea at the time.
We asked at the nearby business if it was possible to walk through the Orto Botanico up to Piazza Garibaldi and she replied no. I was dubious but I didn’t really have the time to walk up to a dead end so we decided to go the long way around.
Somehow we messed up and wound up walking by the street. Up, up and more up. Naturally it had to be that way, what the hell was I expecting??! It’s the Gianicolo <u>HILL</u>. Duh! It was hot and getting hotter as the afternoon progressed. DD was not doing the happy dance by the time we reached the <i><b>Fontana Paola</i></b>.
The fountain was pretty impressive and the view was magnificent. Took But it was not to be fully enjoyed, I was in a time crunch. After a couple of pictures it was time to keep walking. Double time.
I was second guessing myself all the way to <i><b> Piazza Garibaldi</i></b>: Should I just ditch the Vatican tickets (48Euros)? Should I slow down and just come in late? Is it even feasible to arrive on time? Should we stop and wait for a bus? Why are there no buses coming through? Why the #$%$% did I not take a bus from the Villa to the Vatican? Or even better, a taxi?
So I committed the capital sin of travel, I became a true tourist and not the traveler I yearn to be: I did not savor what I was seeing. I rushed through the sight at hand in favor of the one to come, thus wasting the time and effort invested in order to get here in the first place. Live and learn.
To spare you the full extent of my racing thoughts, we kept walking at fast pace and we made it to the Vatican Museum entrance by 2:20.
BTW, there was a trailhead by the Gianicolo passagiata identified as Villa Farnesina, so I guess that there is a way through the garden. There has to.
<i><b>The Wealth of the World</i></b>
Even at the late hour the line to enter the <i><b> Musei Vaticani</i></b> was still considerable. I would estimate it at least to be an hour-long wait. Not too bad. Except –and a very considerable exception- that it was in the full sun.
Happy to by-pass the line, we had show the printout of the reservation to several Men in Black along the way before we reached the door. We were directed towards the group counter. I handed over the paper to the ticket seller and, not really surprising and almost disappointingly, he did not say anything about our tardiness. What can I say? I’m a sucker for punctuality, I guess it can be included as one of the many reasons I married a Swiss.
Once we were in we collapsed the Cortile della Pigna and tried to recover our breath while willing ourselves into having a second wind.
While DD was still melting on the floor an elderly woman handed her a camera and ordered: YOU. Sit. No Stand. Take Picture. And proceeded to pose with one of the biggest grins I have ever seen. It was hilarious but I guess you had to be there.
There is nothing like laughing to bring the energy level up so we scraped ourselves from the floor and tackled the museum.
<i><b>A Brief Digression to Address the matter of Guidebooks</i></b>
I spent countless hours at Borders browsing through guidebooks trying to make a decision of which books were worthy of weighing down my daypack during this vacation.
In the past I have used a combination of Fodor’s, Frommer’s, Lonely Planet, Let’s Go, Eyewitness Guides and the Michelin Green Guide (this one I always get). Each has its own virtues and lacks. The ones which I had never, ever used where the Rick Steve’s guides.
I only became curious because of all the RS bashing that occurs in Fodor’s. I looked a few of the books over and did not dislike what I saw. I first bought the Rome guide to take a closer look at home. Yes, he has a silly/sarcastic sense of humor. Yes, some of the diagrams are stupid. But much to my surprise, the guide book was pretty good.
In the end I took two Green Guides: Rome and Tuscany, and two RS Guides: Rome and Venice. A few days before the trip I found at Marshall’s for $3.99 RS’s 2008 Italy book. This one I tore apart and only took with me the relevant sections.
Throughout this trip I found that the Green Guide was to dry for DD and DH and I would sometimes lose their interest while I was reading out loud. DD liked the RS books, laughed at the silly jokes and would often read the descriptions herself.
On the practical side of things I found the RS ‘walks’ to be a lot easier to follow than any other guidebook I had used before. On top of that I found them to be very accurate regarding opening hours and other details.
I will certainly use this combination again in the future.
<i><b>Countless Riches</i></b>
I was aiming for a basic tour of the museum mainly for DD’s benefit. DH and I had been here before and while I can see masterpieces time and time again and be excited every time, he gets rather bored. One day when I grow up, I will go in there by myself and spend at least a week looking at beautiful things.
I will not go into the details of everything we saw, it has been described in countless guides. We basically followed RS’s tour but bypassed the Egyptian section (DD had not shown much interest at the NY Met so I was saving our feet).
For the first part of the visit we were mostly able to place ourselves into the gaps left in between tour groups. There was space enough that it did not become a single mass of humanity moving in unison. Still it felt a bit like cattle droving. We had to wait a little to get good looks of handsome Apollo Belvedere and of the impressing Torso which was a big influence on Michaelangelo.
It got a bit more crowded when the available space was compressed in the Round Room. We had to go through here almost in single file and were not allowed by the Museum Dictators to linger.
By the time we reached the tapestries DD was beginning to look uncomfortable. She has a touch of claustrophobia. She deals with it rather well but I could see that she was not happy. Thankfully it was not stifling hot, that might have thrown her over the edge.
She perked up a bit in the Map Gallery as we looked out the windows to admire the dome. I don’t know where everyone went but we had a lot more space around us in the papal apartments. We even found seating space once in a while! Giving our feet some rest enabled DD and I to discuss the amazing lighting of Raphael’s Liberation of St. Peters and to try to match the Renaissance characters depicted as Greek philosophers in his School of Athens.
<i><b>Silence, Please!</i></b>
We somehow missed the shortcut to the Sistine Chapel and wound up going through the Modern Art gallery. Nothing perked up our interest so we moved along rather quickly. The Sistine Chapel was naturally filled with people but since there was still space to maneuver DD was ok. Eventually we even found space to sit.
I love this place for two reasons. First and foremost, Michaelangelo’s art is unbelievable and I will never tire of admiring it. But second, I love watching people experience the chapel. The range goes from those who couldn’t care less, its one thing to check-off the list. Been there done that, to those who work themselves up to hysterical ecstasy.
The Museum Dictators provide a lot of entertaining too. No FOTO! NOOOOO FOTOOOOO! Immediately interrupted by the prerecorded message to remain silent in this holy place.
There was a Portuguese group that got a severe scolding (at a very high volume) from one of the MDs. He asked her which language she spoke, she answered Portuguese and then he yelled: In that case Spanish is good enough so that you UNDERSTAND that this is your third and final warning, no photos!’. A plain clothes guard was posted next to them. They left soon afterwards. Walking rather quickly I thought.
Once we had had our fill of the marvelous ceiling (and rested our feet a bit) we went out by the Group Exit door (the guards did not even blink) and went directly into Saint Peters.
<i><b>A dome which stretches all the way to heaven</i></b>
There is nothing comparable to the experience of walking into <i><b>St. Peter’s Basilica</i></b>. One can picture a constant stream of pilgrims, feeling tiny and insignificant, overwhelmed by the Holy Mother Church only then to be pulled into the endless space beneath the dome, the true gateway to heaven.
Boy, did they know how to put on a good show!
I had recently read <u>The Splendor and The Scandal: Building St. Peters</u> and found that the book added tremendously to the experience of being there. I would strongly recommend it to anyone visiting the Basilica. You can barely fathom to the long, dramatic, traumatic and political processes that resulted in this church.
I was disappointed that the areas behind the Baldachin were cordoned off and would not open for the rest of the evening. It was nearing closing time so declared the day to be over and slowly emerged into the embracing arms of the Piazza and the roman afternoon glow.
<i><b>Lederhosen in this heat? </i></b>
Earlier in the day I had seen groups of Germans fully dressed in traditional Swabian costumes. I had assumed that they were going to a papal audience. When we exited the museum we heard what I assumed to be firecrackers of some sort but DH immediately recognized as cracking whips.
He pulled my arm and said, you have to see this! We almost ran (considering the miles walked that day perhaps it would be more accurate to say that we hobbled quickly) over to the opening in time to see a group of nine leather-clad men whipping away in perfect unison across the piazza.
As we came out of the basilica we saw two groups playing German music and hymns at opposites sides of the piazza. Hummm… why were the Southern Germans were invading the Vatican? We would find out the next day.
<i><b>The pursuit of sustenance for the body </i></b>
After laying around the base of the obelisk for a while we finally picked ourselves up and started to walk in the general direction of home. DD got some Crema gelato (2E) to carry her over into dinner time. We passed Castel Sant’Angelo and over the bridge of angels into Rome proper.
We wandered through the pedestrian area in Via dei Coronari, looking into the windows of all the antique stores. We detoured from the main street and suddenly saw this really appealing restaurant. We looked at the menu posted outside and they listed a few things we would like to try. That’s when I noticed the name: Osteria del Pegno. This place was on The List!
We asked to make a reservation for later in the evening but they were full for the night. They could accommodate us the following evening so we made a reservation for 8:30. Well, at least tomorrow’s meal was setup.
<i><b>Time to WUI</i></b>
The task at hand was to find a place to sit down and have a drink. We did not need to seek far. After a few twists and turns we found ourselves by <i><b>Café de la Pace</i></b>. A quick movement by DH secured us an outside table where we could rest our weary feet while we watched the world go by and people jockey for tables.
We had walked a lot in the heat and completely skipped lunch so we knew that this was not vino time. We ordered two big beers and a coke. We should have ordered one and shared because by the time we were done they were completely warm. I’m not that big on beer anyway so DH wound up drinking most of my tepid beer and then we shared a third one.
DD was briefly released from parental surveillance so she could wander up and down the street on her own until we were ready to move on. It was 8:15 by the time we paid our bill (20E) and I knew that by then we could have some trouble finding a place for dinner.
<i><b>Where Does One Eat on a Reservation-Less Friday Night?!?!</i></b>
I’m always optimist so we walked over to Armando al Pantheon. No luck. All tables were accounted for and they would not take reservations for second seating.
The prospects for the evening were beginning to look bleak when our wandering feet and guardian angels took us straight to the front of <i><b>Der Pallaro</i></b>. We asked for a table and the waiter told us about the style of the place: basically you don’t have a choice. You get what they cook and that’s it. I asked what was being served and was handed list of items. I did not see anything offensive and knowing that the options were limited by that time, we promptly agreed. We were seated on the next to last available table.
Within minutes food started coming out of the kitchen:
Antipasti:
- Lentils dressed with oil and vinegar; very good
- Huge platter of prosciutto; cannot go wrong!
- Fennel Salad; not my favorite thing in the world but still good
- Fried Rice Balls; really creamy and smooth on the inside, crunchy on the outside. Really good!
- Unidentified croquette – my guess is that it was somewhat related to eggplant
- Olives; the single one thing I don’t eat in this world. Just cannot swallow them.
Primi: Rigatoni in tomato sauce; wonderfully al dente, the sauce deliciously stuck to the pasta, tons of grated cheese were dropped over it.
Secondi: Roasted Veal au jus with potato chips and a green salad; The salad was forgettable, the potato chips would have been perfect for my taste if they had been just a little crunchier. The veal was delicious.
Dolci: A concoction of citric juices was brought with an almond tart. The juice was really good and each took not more than two bites from the tart. We were full and did not have a taste for dessert.
Red Wine and a Coke
(75E)
The great thing about this place was the entertaining. The owner came out of the kitchen periodically and inspected her domain. She was not shy about telling people to eat up. As the evening progressed the line of people waiting to be sat constantly grew.
I was getting the impression that the seating process was completely arbitrary based on the owner’s whim. The waiters would only sit a group when authorized by The Queen. This was confirmed a hopeful dinner questioned the process and she replied in a loud voice: ‘this is MY restaurant and people will be seated as I tell them to’. No more challenges came forth.
As we got up to leave she patted DH’s cheek. I had never seen such a boyish grin on his face!
<i><b>Waddling home</i></b>
Once again we opened the apartment door with some trepidation but the smell only very faintly noticeable. No one attempted to go into the small room. Once the A/C was on it was only a matter of minutes before it disappeared completely. Quick showers for everyone and crashing into bed.
<b>Next: Why are we watching butterflies?, Lots of Bones and The Germans Mobilize </b>
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<b>Friday, May 22 - Day 3: From Trastevere to the Vatican by the way of Gianicolo</b>
<i><b>Reverse Jetlag </i></b>
I opened my eyes at 4:00AM. Am I crazy or what? This would be my natural going to sleep time at home and here I was, wide awake. What can I tell you? I’m just weird. A little too much vino and café machiatto? Plausible. But reverse jetlag sounds a lot more interesting.
I tossed and turned but there was nothing wrong. The apartment was completely quiet. The bed was sufficiently comfortable. I was not hot but I certainly was not cool either, the A/C in the bedroom did not seem to be quite up to speed. That at least gave me something to do. I cautiously opened the big bedroom door and smelled. Nothing! OK, this was not so bad. I cranked up the A/C in the main living room and left the big bedroom door open. Within a couple of minutes the temperature was cool enough to snuggle up to DH.
<i><b>Making Pretty for the Day </i></b>
DD woke us up at 8:30 this morning. I had run them a bit ragged the day before so I was not going to push for an early start. DH went for supplemental breakfast goodies while we showered and made pretty. Well, if truth be told, DD made pretty because at that moment I made an unprecedented decision which will forever haunt me in the pictures taken but allowed me to survive in relative comfort the rest of the day: I put on a light blue Gap T-Shirt, dark blue Gap skirt (same T-shirt material) and sneakers. Yup. I did that. My only defense: it was seriously hot outside and we would walk many miles this day.
Allow me to elaborate. Even though I’m not a fashionista, I try to dress on the classic side. When I’m on vacation I aim at achieving a look that will not make me stand out in the crowd but will still get me seated at any restaurant I walk into.
I only wear sneakers when I’m exercising (read: not nearly enough) and had only brought a pair because of the walking that we would do in Vernazza. I had packed two other skirts but they were certainly not suitable to wear with sneakers. This particular skirt had been packed on impulse to perhaps wear during long car rides or to have something to change into in the evening. But my sneakers are gray and blue and these clothes were the best possible combination (and I use the term ‘best’ very loosely here).
DD looked at me when I came out of the room dressed as The Tourist and asked if I was going out like that. I said ‘Yes’. She immediately followed up with: ‘With those shoes?’ My quick reply (on a rather flat, firm and final tone): ‘It’s hot and my feet still hurt from yesterday’. She sort of rolled her eyes and did not utter a single word more. Bless her soul. There is hope for this girl!
Side note for the ladies: This is a tip I learned from fellow Fodorites! Lots of ladies refrain from wearing skirts because of inner thigh rub. If you apply antiperspirant to the area which rubs no chaffing will occur. Works great!
<i><b>Second attempt at coffee-making </i></b>
DH arrived with all the goodies and we setup for breakfast. We had finally figured out how to turn on the stove (push and hold without turning until ignition) so we boiled some water for what we thought was instant coffee. Wrong. After all the grains finally settled we wound up drinking Turkish-style coffee. Not very good but at least killed the caffeine need. Addiction is a BAD thing.
I figured I would have decent coffee somewhere along the way. Probably in the place where we found a payphone to call the apartment owner to see what could be done for the stinky room.
<i><b>The Plan for Today </i></b>
Another very ambitious day had been planned:
1. Villa Farnesina
2. San Pietro in Montorio (The Tempietto)
If-we-have-time:
2a. San Francisco Ripa (Bernini’s ecstasy of Ludovica)
2b. Santa Maria in Trastevere
2c. Santa Cecilia
3. The Vatican Museum (pre-purchased tickets for 2:00 PM)
4. St. Peters
I will only say that it looked OK on paper. It actually might have worked if we had been by the gates of Villa Farnesina when they opened at 8:00AM. Needless to say, that was not the case. We walked out of the apartment by 10:30.
<i><b>The Revised Plan</i></b>
1. Villa Farnesina
2. The Vatican Museum
3. St. Peters
<i><b>The Unexpected Neighborhood</i></b>
I intended to go to the Trastevere loosely following Rick Steve’s <b><i>Jewish Ghetto</b></i> Walk. This itinerary starts by the Turtle Fountain, goes thru the Portico d’Ottavia and ends going over the Ponte Fabricio into the Isola Tiberiana. This area was a complete surprise to me. It was bustling with activity and lots of interesting-looking restaurants. I would have browsed through the menus but that 2:00 pre-purchased entrance to the Vatican Museum was already looming over my head.
I wonder why this area is not more actively discussed – well, I know why… when a 4 star location is completely surrounded by 5 star sights it is easy for the place to go unnoticed. To me it seemed that the area was just as browsing-worthy as the Campo de Fiori.
As we walked by the <b><i>The Portico d’Ottavia</b></i> ruins I wondered if Romans even <i>truly see</i> these marvelous things or if their eyes become so accustomed to the evidence of history that the mind just filters it out.
We veered off our walk so that we could go through the little passage next to the <b><i>Teatro di Marcello</b></i>. The top floors of this ancient theater were turned into a palace a couple of centuries after its construction. I thought it was pretty cool and I was rather disappointed with the Green Guide for giving such a brief description of this place.
We finally walked past a public phone but it apparently require some type of calling card which we obviously not had. So, no call to the apartment owner could be made.
<i><b>The Beautiful Palace</i></b>
Once we were on the other side of the river we decided to hop on the bus to try to get as fast as possible to <b><i>Villa Farnesina</b></i>. This was a must-do for this trip. I wanted to see the palace of renaissance banker Agostino Chigi and the art he had commissioned Raphael to produce for him.
I also wanted DD to see this <i>before</i> she went to the Vatican because, really, after you see the ceilings in the musei and the frescoes in the Sistine Chapel, Villa Farnesina might not be that impressive after all.
Entrance was 5E pp and is not covered by Roma Pass. DH asked if he could use the phone to call the apartment owner but apparently it was an out of town number and the clerk refused.
The palace is beautiful. And I was pleased to see that the frescoes were impressive enough. Once again I could have stayed a bit longer but two things did not make it possible: it was 1:00 PM (in the ‘low’ –ha!- season the Villa closes at 1:00PM) and I only had an hour to make to the Vatican Musei. I had –still don’t- no idea of how strongly they enforce the entrance time so I was not willing to be late.
<i><b>The Long March</i></b>
There are multiple transportation options between Villa Farnesina and Vatican City but I thought of a possibility that had been on my wish-list: let’s walk up the <i><b>Gianicolo Hill</i></b>, past the Garibaldi monument and we’ll come straight down into the Vatican City.
This walk did not look so challenging on the map. Why? Because the map does not show elevation. I thought it could easily be done in an hour. I’ll only say that it seemed like a good idea at the time.
We asked at the nearby business if it was possible to walk through the Orto Botanico up to Piazza Garibaldi and she replied no. I was dubious but I didn’t really have the time to walk up to a dead end so we decided to go the long way around.
Somehow we messed up and wound up walking by the street. Up, up and more up. Naturally it had to be that way, what the hell was I expecting??! It’s the Gianicolo <u>HILL</u>. Duh! It was hot and getting hotter as the afternoon progressed. DD was not doing the happy dance by the time we reached the <i><b>Fontana Paola</i></b>.
The fountain was pretty impressive and the view was magnificent. Took But it was not to be fully enjoyed, I was in a time crunch. After a couple of pictures it was time to keep walking. Double time.
I was second guessing myself all the way to <i><b> Piazza Garibaldi</i></b>: Should I just ditch the Vatican tickets (48Euros)? Should I slow down and just come in late? Is it even feasible to arrive on time? Should we stop and wait for a bus? Why are there no buses coming through? Why the #$%$% did I not take a bus from the Villa to the Vatican? Or even better, a taxi?
So I committed the capital sin of travel, I became a true tourist and not the traveler I yearn to be: I did not savor what I was seeing. I rushed through the sight at hand in favor of the one to come, thus wasting the time and effort invested in order to get here in the first place. Live and learn.
To spare you the full extent of my racing thoughts, we kept walking at fast pace and we made it to the Vatican Museum entrance by 2:20.
BTW, there was a trailhead by the Gianicolo passagiata identified as Villa Farnesina, so I guess that there is a way through the garden. There has to.
<i><b>The Wealth of the World</i></b>
Even at the late hour the line to enter the <i><b> Musei Vaticani</i></b> was still considerable. I would estimate it at least to be an hour-long wait. Not too bad. Except –and a very considerable exception- that it was in the full sun.
Happy to by-pass the line, we had show the printout of the reservation to several Men in Black along the way before we reached the door. We were directed towards the group counter. I handed over the paper to the ticket seller and, not really surprising and almost disappointingly, he did not say anything about our tardiness. What can I say? I’m a sucker for punctuality, I guess it can be included as one of the many reasons I married a Swiss.
Once we were in we collapsed the Cortile della Pigna and tried to recover our breath while willing ourselves into having a second wind.
While DD was still melting on the floor an elderly woman handed her a camera and ordered: YOU. Sit. No Stand. Take Picture. And proceeded to pose with one of the biggest grins I have ever seen. It was hilarious but I guess you had to be there.
There is nothing like laughing to bring the energy level up so we scraped ourselves from the floor and tackled the museum.
<i><b>A Brief Digression to Address the matter of Guidebooks</i></b>
I spent countless hours at Borders browsing through guidebooks trying to make a decision of which books were worthy of weighing down my daypack during this vacation.
In the past I have used a combination of Fodor’s, Frommer’s, Lonely Planet, Let’s Go, Eyewitness Guides and the Michelin Green Guide (this one I always get). Each has its own virtues and lacks. The ones which I had never, ever used where the Rick Steve’s guides.
I only became curious because of all the RS bashing that occurs in Fodor’s. I looked a few of the books over and did not dislike what I saw. I first bought the Rome guide to take a closer look at home. Yes, he has a silly/sarcastic sense of humor. Yes, some of the diagrams are stupid. But much to my surprise, the guide book was pretty good.
In the end I took two Green Guides: Rome and Tuscany, and two RS Guides: Rome and Venice. A few days before the trip I found at Marshall’s for $3.99 RS’s 2008 Italy book. This one I tore apart and only took with me the relevant sections.
Throughout this trip I found that the Green Guide was to dry for DD and DH and I would sometimes lose their interest while I was reading out loud. DD liked the RS books, laughed at the silly jokes and would often read the descriptions herself.
On the practical side of things I found the RS ‘walks’ to be a lot easier to follow than any other guidebook I had used before. On top of that I found them to be very accurate regarding opening hours and other details.
I will certainly use this combination again in the future.
<i><b>Countless Riches</i></b>
I was aiming for a basic tour of the museum mainly for DD’s benefit. DH and I had been here before and while I can see masterpieces time and time again and be excited every time, he gets rather bored. One day when I grow up, I will go in there by myself and spend at least a week looking at beautiful things.
I will not go into the details of everything we saw, it has been described in countless guides. We basically followed RS’s tour but bypassed the Egyptian section (DD had not shown much interest at the NY Met so I was saving our feet).
For the first part of the visit we were mostly able to place ourselves into the gaps left in between tour groups. There was space enough that it did not become a single mass of humanity moving in unison. Still it felt a bit like cattle droving. We had to wait a little to get good looks of handsome Apollo Belvedere and of the impressing Torso which was a big influence on Michaelangelo.
It got a bit more crowded when the available space was compressed in the Round Room. We had to go through here almost in single file and were not allowed by the Museum Dictators to linger.
By the time we reached the tapestries DD was beginning to look uncomfortable. She has a touch of claustrophobia. She deals with it rather well but I could see that she was not happy. Thankfully it was not stifling hot, that might have thrown her over the edge.
She perked up a bit in the Map Gallery as we looked out the windows to admire the dome. I don’t know where everyone went but we had a lot more space around us in the papal apartments. We even found seating space once in a while! Giving our feet some rest enabled DD and I to discuss the amazing lighting of Raphael’s Liberation of St. Peters and to try to match the Renaissance characters depicted as Greek philosophers in his School of Athens.
<i><b>Silence, Please!</i></b>
We somehow missed the shortcut to the Sistine Chapel and wound up going through the Modern Art gallery. Nothing perked up our interest so we moved along rather quickly. The Sistine Chapel was naturally filled with people but since there was still space to maneuver DD was ok. Eventually we even found space to sit.
I love this place for two reasons. First and foremost, Michaelangelo’s art is unbelievable and I will never tire of admiring it. But second, I love watching people experience the chapel. The range goes from those who couldn’t care less, its one thing to check-off the list. Been there done that, to those who work themselves up to hysterical ecstasy.
The Museum Dictators provide a lot of entertaining too. No FOTO! NOOOOO FOTOOOOO! Immediately interrupted by the prerecorded message to remain silent in this holy place.
There was a Portuguese group that got a severe scolding (at a very high volume) from one of the MDs. He asked her which language she spoke, she answered Portuguese and then he yelled: In that case Spanish is good enough so that you UNDERSTAND that this is your third and final warning, no photos!’. A plain clothes guard was posted next to them. They left soon afterwards. Walking rather quickly I thought.
Once we had had our fill of the marvelous ceiling (and rested our feet a bit) we went out by the Group Exit door (the guards did not even blink) and went directly into Saint Peters.
<i><b>A dome which stretches all the way to heaven</i></b>
There is nothing comparable to the experience of walking into <i><b>St. Peter’s Basilica</i></b>. One can picture a constant stream of pilgrims, feeling tiny and insignificant, overwhelmed by the Holy Mother Church only then to be pulled into the endless space beneath the dome, the true gateway to heaven.
Boy, did they know how to put on a good show!
I had recently read <u>The Splendor and The Scandal: Building St. Peters</u> and found that the book added tremendously to the experience of being there. I would strongly recommend it to anyone visiting the Basilica. You can barely fathom to the long, dramatic, traumatic and political processes that resulted in this church.
I was disappointed that the areas behind the Baldachin were cordoned off and would not open for the rest of the evening. It was nearing closing time so declared the day to be over and slowly emerged into the embracing arms of the Piazza and the roman afternoon glow.
<i><b>Lederhosen in this heat? </i></b>
Earlier in the day I had seen groups of Germans fully dressed in traditional Swabian costumes. I had assumed that they were going to a papal audience. When we exited the museum we heard what I assumed to be firecrackers of some sort but DH immediately recognized as cracking whips.
He pulled my arm and said, you have to see this! We almost ran (considering the miles walked that day perhaps it would be more accurate to say that we hobbled quickly) over to the opening in time to see a group of nine leather-clad men whipping away in perfect unison across the piazza.
As we came out of the basilica we saw two groups playing German music and hymns at opposites sides of the piazza. Hummm… why were the Southern Germans were invading the Vatican? We would find out the next day.
<i><b>The pursuit of sustenance for the body </i></b>
After laying around the base of the obelisk for a while we finally picked ourselves up and started to walk in the general direction of home. DD got some Crema gelato (2E) to carry her over into dinner time. We passed Castel Sant’Angelo and over the bridge of angels into Rome proper.
We wandered through the pedestrian area in Via dei Coronari, looking into the windows of all the antique stores. We detoured from the main street and suddenly saw this really appealing restaurant. We looked at the menu posted outside and they listed a few things we would like to try. That’s when I noticed the name: Osteria del Pegno. This place was on The List!
We asked to make a reservation for later in the evening but they were full for the night. They could accommodate us the following evening so we made a reservation for 8:30. Well, at least tomorrow’s meal was setup.
<i><b>Time to WUI</i></b>
The task at hand was to find a place to sit down and have a drink. We did not need to seek far. After a few twists and turns we found ourselves by <i><b>Café de la Pace</i></b>. A quick movement by DH secured us an outside table where we could rest our weary feet while we watched the world go by and people jockey for tables.
We had walked a lot in the heat and completely skipped lunch so we knew that this was not vino time. We ordered two big beers and a coke. We should have ordered one and shared because by the time we were done they were completely warm. I’m not that big on beer anyway so DH wound up drinking most of my tepid beer and then we shared a third one.
DD was briefly released from parental surveillance so she could wander up and down the street on her own until we were ready to move on. It was 8:15 by the time we paid our bill (20E) and I knew that by then we could have some trouble finding a place for dinner.
<i><b>Where Does One Eat on a Reservation-Less Friday Night?!?!</i></b>
I’m always optimist so we walked over to Armando al Pantheon. No luck. All tables were accounted for and they would not take reservations for second seating.
The prospects for the evening were beginning to look bleak when our wandering feet and guardian angels took us straight to the front of <i><b>Der Pallaro</i></b>. We asked for a table and the waiter told us about the style of the place: basically you don’t have a choice. You get what they cook and that’s it. I asked what was being served and was handed list of items. I did not see anything offensive and knowing that the options were limited by that time, we promptly agreed. We were seated on the next to last available table.
Within minutes food started coming out of the kitchen:
Antipasti:
- Lentils dressed with oil and vinegar; very good
- Huge platter of prosciutto; cannot go wrong!
- Fennel Salad; not my favorite thing in the world but still good
- Fried Rice Balls; really creamy and smooth on the inside, crunchy on the outside. Really good!
- Unidentified croquette – my guess is that it was somewhat related to eggplant
- Olives; the single one thing I don’t eat in this world. Just cannot swallow them.
Primi: Rigatoni in tomato sauce; wonderfully al dente, the sauce deliciously stuck to the pasta, tons of grated cheese were dropped over it.
Secondi: Roasted Veal au jus with potato chips and a green salad; The salad was forgettable, the potato chips would have been perfect for my taste if they had been just a little crunchier. The veal was delicious.
Dolci: A concoction of citric juices was brought with an almond tart. The juice was really good and each took not more than two bites from the tart. We were full and did not have a taste for dessert.
Red Wine and a Coke
(75E)
The great thing about this place was the entertaining. The owner came out of the kitchen periodically and inspected her domain. She was not shy about telling people to eat up. As the evening progressed the line of people waiting to be sat constantly grew.
I was getting the impression that the seating process was completely arbitrary based on the owner’s whim. The waiters would only sit a group when authorized by The Queen. This was confirmed a hopeful dinner questioned the process and she replied in a loud voice: ‘this is MY restaurant and people will be seated as I tell them to’. No more challenges came forth.
As we got up to leave she patted DH’s cheek. I had never seen such a boyish grin on his face!
<i><b>Waddling home</i></b>
Once again we opened the apartment door with some trepidation but the smell only very faintly noticeable. No one attempted to go into the small room. Once the A/C was on it was only a matter of minutes before it disappeared completely. Quick showers for everyone and crashing into bed.
<b>Next: Why are we watching butterflies?, Lots of Bones and The Germans Mobilize </b>
Jun 14th, 2009, 12:31 PM
#34
I do a lot of WUI on my vacations too, especially when it's warm. Your daily itineraries are very ambitious!
Really enjoying your report. I've visited Rome many times and reading about others' trips just makes me want to go again.
Really enjoying your report. I've visited Rome many times and reading about others' trips just makes me want to go again.
Jun 14th, 2009, 01:51 PM
#35
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This is a magical review. Perhaps you were watching us the first and only time we entered the Bascilica? I was the one standing shell shocked, slack jawed and tears streaming.
I hope there is a visit to Santa Maria Trestavere later on. It was one of the best experiences of our trip. We were tired and hot and grateful to enter the church. There was a luminous sound echoing off the walls of the church. It was a high school choir from the US singing Negro spirituals. These are the reasons we travel.
Looking for more from you. What a treat!
I hope there is a visit to Santa Maria Trestavere later on. It was one of the best experiences of our trip. We were tired and hot and grateful to enter the church. There was a luminous sound echoing off the walls of the church. It was a high school choir from the US singing Negro spirituals. These are the reasons we travel.
Looking for more from you. What a treat!
Jun 14th, 2009, 04:39 PM
#38
Marigross - I'm loving this report, too. Add me to that long list of admirers here; your planning, your organization, and your writing are amazing! Looking forward to more! Loving DD as well (Ciao bella! indeed!)
Paule
Paule
