rolohof_duvall

I have looked in the trip reports and my own saved "favorites" for a good link for bus schedules to visit the interior communities of the Apennines. I can't seem to find the link. Please help! My plan is to stay in or near Chiavri and "explore". For starters, I would like to see the Abbazia di Sant"Andrea di Borzone near Borzonasca and Parco dell' Aveto and explore the smaller towns of Rezzoaglio Cabanne and the Bascilica San Salvatore di Cogorno.

Thank You as always

Rolo

TDudette

This is probably close to being a non-answer but have you googled those towns for bus info? My limited experience with bus travel in Italy and France is that the bus lines are very localized unless they are connecting larger cities. So also, look at bus service at nearby larger towns. For sure there are natives who travel there as well.

Another place to try is Rick Steves-I think he has pretty good info about getting in and out of towns. (He mentioned the #100 bus from Menton to Nice, France and was spot on.)

I hope you will share what info you do come up with. It would be most helpful to us all!

zeppole

Here you go:

http://www.tigulliotrasporti.it/

TDudette

Just googling "Borzonasca bus" brought up this site (look at the English translation in the page):

http://www.agenzieimmobiliari.eu/ann...co/borzonasca/

Since zeppole lives in Italy his or her info is probably even better! Good luck, and again, please report back.

rolohof_duvall

Zeppole,

Thank You!. I was secretly hoping you would respond. The link you shared is the one I saw in a trip report, but could not find. I will now dig out the english to Italian dictionary and go to work.

TDudette. I appreciat the link you sent too. I will reveiw it and reply.

Thank You All

zeppole

Sure!

If you are going to stay in or near Chiavari and explore (which is a great idea), there are some other places to consider putting on your list.

You can take the train or even walk to the next town down the coast of Lavagna, and explore the historic center. There are very old fashioned pastry shops and wine bars serving inexpensive lunches in the main streets in the heart of town.

While you are in Chiavari, be sure to eat at least once farinata in Luchin's (closed Sunday). The Caffe Defilla in Chiavari makes as small sweet that is a pyramid of chocolate filled with chocolate-rum cream, very light and tasty. If you want to blow the bank on a meal, the badly-named Lord Nelson's Pub serves marvelous creative food. For more traditional Liguria fresh caught seafood, try Il Portico. People argue about who has the better gelato -- Davide or Verde or Defilla. (Hands down Defilla's "shakerato" cold espresso is one of the best in Italy, I'm sure!)

The cable car in Rapallo (up the river from the train station) will take up in 7 minutes to a spectacular view of the Golfo del Paradiso and the Golfo del Tiguillo, all the way down to the Bay of La Spezia. You can have lunch up there, and there are even ways to walk back to Chiavari from there (ask the tourist office).

In Rapallo is one of Italy's best gelateria, on the seaside, opposite the castle, Frigidarium. The food markets and wine bars in the heart of town -- especially the Cantine d'Italia -- are fun, and the Cantine is a cool shady place to sit and drink wine.

From Rapallo you can take a boat to Portofino, and from there see the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, arguably the prettiest setting for an abbey in Italy. You can walk back to Portofino, or bettr, take a boat further on to Camogli and take the train back. Even better, catch the bus up to Ruta -- a spectacular ride -- and switch to a bus for Rapallo, another spectacular ride. (You can also do that trip the other way, with a twist: Catch a bus at the Rapallo train station for Ruta, and then get off and either walk the flat road to San Rocco di Camogli, or take the 5 minute bus ride). Beautiful views, good lunch spots in all price ranges, and a staircase to take you down from the cliffs into Camogli for a bus, train or boat ride back toward Chiavari).

Sestri Levante has lovely food and cocktail bars on the seaside and a lively holiday Italian atmosphere. Polpo Mario is great for a meal of octopus. Ask the locals for the best gelaterie and coffee. They are not in the obvious places.

Head over to Zoagli by train or bus for a beautiful walk on the seaside at sunset.

If you finally decide you want to rent a car, you can pick one up in Rapallo.

Have fun!

If you were thinking of buying olive oil, local olive oil from Leivi is exquisite. If you like to picnic, the food stores and markets in old Chiavari are fantastic for roast chicken, stuffed anchovies, vegetable tortes, olives and all sorts of things.

Have fun!

zeppole

ps, R-D,

You will do very well to buy a copy of David Downie's Food and Wine of the Italian Riviera and Genoa. It's not just a food book. It has detailed descriptions of a lot of the places you want to go, and town destinations in the entroterra as well as the coast.

rolohof_duvall

Zeppole,

Thank You yet again. I have just now ordered the book. I very much appreciate your suggestions. The cable car in Rapallo is on my list of "to do's" as is the boat to San Fruttuoso. In an earlier post, "off the tourist trail" the Cadogan guide of the Riviera was suggested to me as well as the Italian Touring Club book. I have used those for much of the trip planning. My intent is, to use Chiavari as "home base" to explore up and down the coast as well as head in land.

Best Regards,

Rolo

zeppole

Chiavari is so wonderful!

Here is a website with lots of good links and information about it.

http://chiavari.manana.it/the_town.htm

Have you picked a place to stay?

rolohof_duvall

Z,

I have not yet picked a place to stay. I am budget conscious, E100 to E150 Max. 2 people 1 room, a view is not important since I can't see anything while sleeping! I am making a list that includes: the Monestary Suore della Providencia and Hotel Ferrarri, Hotel Doria, Bed & Blue, and S&C (last 2 are B&B). The plan is to visit mid Sept, and use trains and public transport, so in town would be my first choice. I did check out the "appartment" in the link you sent. That would be a fine option too.

I am very grateful for your posts, the information and passionate opinions.

Best Regards,
R

zeppole

I think you do want to stay in town in the vicinity of the train station and major bus terminus (they are within yards of each other in Chiavari).

I looked at Zia Piera online and thought it was quite attractive, in price, amenities (aircon) and position (right on the sea), plus it has a restaurant where guests can get dinner for 20e per person, which strikes me as excellent in this part of the world. (Careful: Their website has a soundtrack)

http://www.hotelziapiera.it/

It pulled good reviews on Tripadvisor, but I see it pulled on really sour one on Venere, but I'm not sure I'd let it dissuade me, although I'm not trying to influence you. One reason I'd be tempted is because noise is probably going to be an issue no matter where you stay -- the seafront gets both auto and train noise. In the "centrro" you get church noise and people talking.

The problem with the Doria is that it sits right on top of the train station, and you will heat train announcements from the crack of dawn until after 1pm. Santa Maria also has no air con (hot summer weather seldom breaks until 3rd week of September, so leaving the windows open to sleep gets noisy. Easier with air con to shut them.) Ferrari says it has air con, but one reviewer said they are stingy with it.

Monastery is in a very nice location, but check about minimum stays and curfews. It's a not in a heavily trafficked zone, so air con might be less important in terms of blocking out noise. I can't see where Bed&Blue has air con (it's right next to Zia Piera). S&C doesn't appear to have a private bath.

I expect the rooms are very expensive, but Lord Nelson Pub -- which is next to Zia Piera and Bed&Blue lets rooms above its restaurant (which is incredibly pricey).

http://www.thelordnelson.it/

If you are a mad googler like I am, you can google up the list of hotels on Venere.com that venere has no pictures and booking for, just a name and address. Sometimes they have websites, so you can see pictures. They are at the bottom of this page:

http://www.venere.com/italy/chiavari/

I don't know much about the apartment that I gave you the link for except that it is a good location right in the historic center. But air con? Minimum stay? I don't know! But if I do know anything, I'll pass it along.

Did you know the Abbazia di Borzone has a website?

http://www.abbaziaborzone.it/index.p...cenni-storici/

If you have to choose between visiting the Abbazia and the Basilica San Salvatore, go for the Abbazia up in Borzonasca. It's the 100th anniversary of the Abbey.

rolohof_duvall

Zapolle,

I received the David Downie's Food and Wine of the Italian Riviera and Genoa, yesterday. Great suggestion. The combination of the Cadogan Guide, Davids book and the Italian TOur Guide (2001 eddition) I have all the tools for planning a comprehensive visit.

Best Regards,

[email protected]

zeppole

Have a great trip!