Brief revisit to Florence
Nov 1st, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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Brief revisit to Florence
I've updated a much longer trip file on Florence.
If you'd like to see it,email me at ESL1051 at yahoo dot com
http://www.museumsinflorence.com terrific resource on museums, especially for days and hours of admission. They also sell tickets.
Booking tickets in advance for the Uffizi and Accademia:
www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/Uffizi This is less expensive than the commercial booking services such as www.weekendafirenze.com Most hotels will make reservations without an added fee.
website for the state museums in Florence (Uffizi, Bargello, Accademia, etc) http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/english/Default.asp which, within the Uffizi and Accademia information, also has a link to the online ticket sales.
Uffizi www.uffizi.firenze.it
Italian art up to the 17th century including works by Botticelli, Fra Angelico, Piero della Francesca, Da Vinci, Michelangelo,and Raphael. The building was designed in1559 by Vasari as the administrative offices (“uffizi”) of the Medici duke, Cosimo I. Later, the Medicis used the building to house their art collection. Allow at least two hours. There is a snack bar, a book shop and small bathrooms near the entrance and exit.You may need your own handwipes and tissues.
Five minutes into my first visit, years ago, I decided that the Uffizi is user-unfriendly. I haven’t changed my mind . When you enter you must climb up several very long and steep flights of stairs, between 75-80 steps in all, 4 flights. There is an elevator, but it is designated for disabled visitors. The place is stuffy and warm, even in October. I can’t imagine going there in summer nor in winter wearing heavy coats. (The cloakroom accepted umbrellas, bags, and backpacks, but not coats.) Audio guides are available. The Renaissance collection is on the one floor, displayed chronologically. The Botticelli room IS thrilling, with the “Birth of Venus” and “Spring”, and I also especially like the round Michelangelo painting of the holy family. To have so little to say about this famous gallerywhich contains so many art treasures has always made me feel a bit uncouth, but this one is just too hard. I am glad to go there, and glad to leave.
If you’ve arranged in advance for tickets, and if you don’t, you;ll be waiting in a long line, you pick up your advance ticket inside one doorway, show it at the gallery entrance, and enter the museum without waiting in line.
Accademia Museum home of Michelangelo’s David, his unfinished Prisoners (designed for the tomb of Michelangelo's patron, Pope Julius II), and Florentine paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries. You can also reserve tickets in advance http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/uffizi/default.aspx or have your hotel do it. No photography is permitted.
Ponte Vecchio, is one of the bridges that spans the Arno river at its narrowest point. Until 1218 this was Florence’s only bridge. The bridge was originally inhabited by butchers and tanners who were ousted by the Medicis in the 1500s. Goldsmiths and diamond cutters were installed to improve the ambience and odors. Ponte Vecchio is still lined with shops selling jewelry, scarves, and gloves. In the past, we were happy with the jewelry quality at Dante Cardini, Ponte Vecchio 34r, http://gioielleriacardini.blogspot.c...blog-post.html
Synagogue/Tempio Maggiore. Via Farina 4 Phone: 055-234-6654 Completed 1882. Open: Sun-Fri obligatory guided tours Don’t arrive there with large packs or bags. For more on the Synagogue http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_S...ue_of_Florence
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus..._Florence.html
San Lorenzo Church - The Medici family parish church, begun by Brunelleschi around 1420. The façade is unfinished. The church contains two bronze pulpits by Donatello, his last works, showing Christ's Passion and the Resurrection. www.sanlorenzo.firenze.it
The church is open daily. The Laurentian Library and Medici Chapel have more limited hours, so check on these.
Laurentian Library (Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana) - Access is through the San Lorenzo church from the north aisle, or the cloisters. Library and staircase designed by Michelangelo. Wall frescoes are breathtaking, as is the staircase. Hours are limited.
For more info on the church and the Laurentian library:
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...n_Library.html
The Medici Chapel of the San Lorenzo church was designed by Michelangelo and it contains several of his sculptures which guard two Medici tombs. For more info on the Medici chapel:
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...i_chapels.html
Santa Croce Church: It is beautiful inside, containing the tombs of Dante, Michelangelo, Galileo, Marconi, and Machiavelli. There's quite a bit of scaffolding in there right now, due to restoration work. Machiavelli’s epitaph reads, in Latin, “With such a name there is no need for eulogy.” The monument for Michelangelo is ugly imo, and I was glad he didn’t design it.
There is a leather-working school with a shop, with access from the rear inside of the Santa Croce church There is also an outside entrance. Scuola del Cuoio Firenze www.leatherschool.it via San Giuseppe 5
Museo San Marco A former Dominican monastery rebuilt circa 1436. On the first floor is Fra Angelico’s magnificent fresco of the Annunciation and in the refectory is a Ghirlandaio fresco of the Last Supper (c.1480). Each monk’s cell was frugally and identically furnished and each contained a serious inspirational fresco,by Fra Angelico. The frescoes are almost surrealistic art, particularly unusual for their time. Only one room was larger and more completely furnished, a duplex, actually, that the Medici men used whenever they wanted to retreat to the monastery to take a break from war, wealth and women. I don't think they took breaks very often. The Fra Angelico works at San Marco are some of my favorite works of art, anywhere, but you have to enjoy religious art. Closed on the 2nd and 4th Monday of each month. http://www.firenzemusei.it/00_englis...rco/index.html
Bargello Museum National museum housing Renaissance sculpture by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michelangelo, et. al. This museum is one of my favorites, and it’s small.
During the Renaissance the building was used as a city hall and prison.
On the upper floor are the bronze bas-relief competition panels for the north Bapistery doors by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti depicting the sacrifice of Abraham (Ghiberti won the commission.) The Bargello contains two Michelangelo sculptures that I especially liked, one of the Greek god Bacchus and another one of David, sculpted later than the more famous one. I also love the fabulous colorful terra cotta sculptures by Della Robbia. Open daily, but closed on some Mondays and Sunday,so check http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en...musei/bargello http://www.firenzemusei.it/00_englis...ello/info.html http://www.arca.net/db/musei/bargello.htm
Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) This gothic cathedral is one of the largest in the world. Construction began in 1296 on the site of the Church of Santa Reparata and the church was consecrated in 1436. The neo-Gothic façade was added in the 19th century to complement Giotto's Gothic bell tower. What makes this church so spectacular is Brunelleschi's dome, completed 1436. The dome is so large that traditional techniques of the time would not work. Brunelleschi created two domes, one inside the other, with ribbing in the space between to distribute the weight. He also developed a brick-laying method, using an ancient Roman herringbone pattern, of interlocking the bricks that made the dome self supporting. The inside of the dome is frescoed with the Last Judgment.
If you want to climb to the top, there are 463 steps!
The beautiful pink and green Bell Tower (Campanile) was originally designed by Giotto and is usually called Giotto’s Bell Tower. Building began in 1334 and was completed at the end of the 14th century. The reliefs from the tower are now in the Cathedral museum. The Campanile features a 414-step climb to the top. No elevator. If you want to go about half way, there is a terrace which has a great view of the dome of the Duomo. Open daily 8:30 am to about 6:30 pm. http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/eng.../campanile.asp
The Baptistery the oldest building in Duomo Square, and my favorite of the big three.
It is an octagonal Italian Romanesque building of white and green marble, one of the oldest in Florence. The foundation was laid in the 6th or 7th century. The interior ceiling is of beautifully-colored and gilded mosaics (completed in 1297). The Baptistery’s outstanding outdoor features are the bronze Renaissance doors on the north and east sides designed by Ghiberti, carved between 1403 and 1452 (the originals are in the cathedral museum).
The north doors (1403 - 1424) depict scenes from the life of Christ; the east doors (facing the cathedral) (1425 - 1452) scenes from the Old Testament. Michelangelo declared the east doors worthy to be the Gates of Paradise. The south doors were designed by Pisano in 1330. http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/eng...battistero.asp
The Museum of the Opera (“Works”) of the Duomo, is across the street from the Duomo. This small museum includes a late Pieta by Michelangelo which was sculpted shortly before his death. Much of the cathedral art work is now located here, including the original Ghiberti door panels, Donatello's Mary Magdalen and St. John, and Michelangelo's late Pieta. The figure of Nicodemus which helps to support the Christ figure is said to be a self-portrait of the artist. There are two rooms devoted to Brunelleschi and the Duomo's construction. Open daily, but on Sundays it closes at 2pm. http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/eng...oghi/museo.asp
Casa Buonarroti via Ghibellina, 70, a short walk from the Duomo. www.casabuonarroti.it/english/e-home.htm
Michelangelo bought the house for his nephew Leonardo di Buonaroti but didn’t live in it himself. Now that I’ve been there, I can’t call it a priority, unless you are running out of things to see. It does contain two original sculptures “Battle of the Centaurs and Lapiths,” a marble relief produced when Michelangelo was 17, and “Madonna and Child” (also known as “Madonna of the Steps” (“Madonna della Scala”). This latter is one of Michelangelo’s earliest works and started his career. There is also a wooden crucifix (1494) from Santo Spirito showing Christ as a gentle, handsome youth, rather than sorrowful. Closed Tuesdays. Open other days except holidays, 9:30 am to 2pm.
Suggestions for a Monday in Florence when many museums are closed:
On a Monday you can visit the Duomo, the Campanile, the Baptistery. You can take a 20 minute bus ride (#13) up to Piazzelle Michelangelo for a gorgeous view of Florence, especially at dusk. Most churches, are open every day, though may close for lunch or services. The Palazzo Vecchio is open on Mondays, as is the Museo dell Opera del Duomo. The Bargello museum and the Museo di San Marco (both of which I loved) are open on some Mondays of the month; you'll have to check for the schedule for the time you will be there. Casa Buonarroti and the Museum of Archaelolgy are open on Mondays. See all schedules at www.museumsinflornece.com
Hotel J and J:
I stayed there many years ago. 20 rooms, former 16th century monastery. Inviting public areas, breakfast room overlooks a courtyard,, spacious bedrooms, modern bathrooms. It is a 10-15 minute walk to the Duomo. Quiet street, but easy walking distance to Santa Croce and across the river. Downside to this hotel given its price is that it had no elevator. Rooms 12, 13, and 14 are on the ground floor and open onto the courtyard. #12 is especially large. Room #1 is a duplex, with a loft bed and an awkward spiral staircase to the bathroom. Hotel also has suites. I stopped in this time; rooms still nice, still no elevator.
http://www.jandjhotel.net 20 via di Mezzo
Relais Santa Croce. It’s a member of the Baglioni hotel chain. I just stayed there, and we loved it. Its interior design is a creative and admirable combination of traditional and modern. The room rate included a generous continental breakfast; cooked dishes were available for an additional charge. The coffee was disappointing. The service was pleasant and accommodating, though not flawless. We thought the errors were minor. The bathroom featured nice products and good towels and plumbing. Beds were comfortable; room lighting was good. There is no business center, but there is wi-fi in the main lounge near the reception desk, and they let me borrow a laptop at no charge. Location is wonderfully convenient—it’s on a quiet street, and yet not more than a 10-minute walk to the Duomo. The Bargello museum is down the street. If it fits your budget, I highly recommend this hotel. http://www.relaisantacroce.com/en/index.htm
restaurants
Vivoli Via dell'Isola delle Stinche 7 behind the Bargello “The best ice cream in Florence.”
More gelato places: http://europetogo.yuku.com/topic/2096 http://goitaly.about.com/od/restaura...nce-gelato.htm
The best hot chocolate I’ve ever had is at Rivoire, Piazza della Signoria 5. Rivoire is also the best place for people-watching in Florence and the Piazza della Signoria the most striking square. If you sit outside you can at the same time view the magnificent sculptures displayed in the Piazza, keeping in mind that the “David” is a copy because the original is in the Accademia museum. Seating is available both indoors and outside. Chocolate and sweets are the claim to fame here. The hot chocolate is thick and dark, with a huge portion of whipped cream on top. The gelato creations are great, too. Sandwiches are also available, as is coffee and wine. They also sell gorgeous marzipan confections for shipping. Closed on Mondays?
(Simon) Boccanegra. Via Ghibellina 124/R, Santa Croce. http://www.boccanegra.com/web/index.php Closed Sundays. From fodors.com “Florentine food cognoscenti flock to this place named for a condottiere (mercenary soldier) hero in a Verdi opera. Under high ceilings, candles on every table cast a rosy glow; the fine wine list and superb service make a meal here a true pleasure. The chef has a deft hand with fish dishes, as well as an inventiveness when it comes to reinterpreting such classics as risotto with chicken liver—he adds leek and saffron to give it a lift. Remember to save room for dessert. A less-expensive, less-formal wine bar serving a basic Tuscan menu is also on the premises.”
My comments: We ate there on our first night as it was just down the street from our hotel. We very much liked this restaurant; casual yet a bit upscale, moderate prices (we thought), and really good food.
La Giostra Borgo Pinti 12/r www.ristorantelagiostra.com lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sunday. Off Piazza Salvemini near Santa Croce. From behind the Duomo take Via dell' Oriuolo to Borgo Pinti. Go left to #12.
We loved this place. You receive a slightly eccentric but warm welcome from the staff, and they are happy to make suggestions for your food and wine, or plan the meal for you. The service is friendly and casual, but efficient. The other patrons are a mix of locals and tourists, and everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. The honeymoon couple next to us were there for the second night in a row. We considered doing the same. Food portions were generous; don’t over-order, or, ask for advice.
Leo Santa Croce, via Torta 7r , Santa Croce area http://www.firenzerestaurant.net/ing.html
I can't remember how I found out about this place, because I've never seen it mentioned in a guide book. We’d passed by it during the daytime, and were not enthusiastic about the looks of the outside, but we went for dinner anyway. Good decision! The restaurant wasn’t crowded, the service was personal, warm, and helpful.
The current owner is a grandson of the original Leo. He spoke excellent English; his grandfather had lived in the USA for 20 years. Food was carefully prepared, traditional and yet meticulous, and deliciousl Wine was reasonably-priced, and equally-excellent. We are so glad to have gone there! I want everyone to go there!
On my first trip to Florence we had had a great last dinner at Pallotino. It also just happens to be next door to Vivoli the gelato mecca, so that’s where we had our dessert. On our most recent trip, we went there for a quick and casual lunch. They have a low-cost fixed price lunch special,though portions were small, and nothing special. Maybe it’s a better choice for a la carte ordering, or for dinner. Via Isola della Stinche 1/R. www.trattoriapallottino.com Closed Mondays.
If you'd like to see it,email me at ESL1051 at yahoo dot com
http://www.museumsinflorence.com terrific resource on museums, especially for days and hours of admission. They also sell tickets.
Booking tickets in advance for the Uffizi and Accademia:
www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/Uffizi This is less expensive than the commercial booking services such as www.weekendafirenze.com Most hotels will make reservations without an added fee.
website for the state museums in Florence (Uffizi, Bargello, Accademia, etc) http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/english/Default.asp which, within the Uffizi and Accademia information, also has a link to the online ticket sales.
Uffizi www.uffizi.firenze.it
Italian art up to the 17th century including works by Botticelli, Fra Angelico, Piero della Francesca, Da Vinci, Michelangelo,and Raphael. The building was designed in1559 by Vasari as the administrative offices (“uffizi”) of the Medici duke, Cosimo I. Later, the Medicis used the building to house their art collection. Allow at least two hours. There is a snack bar, a book shop and small bathrooms near the entrance and exit.You may need your own handwipes and tissues.
Five minutes into my first visit, years ago, I decided that the Uffizi is user-unfriendly. I haven’t changed my mind . When you enter you must climb up several very long and steep flights of stairs, between 75-80 steps in all, 4 flights. There is an elevator, but it is designated for disabled visitors. The place is stuffy and warm, even in October. I can’t imagine going there in summer nor in winter wearing heavy coats. (The cloakroom accepted umbrellas, bags, and backpacks, but not coats.) Audio guides are available. The Renaissance collection is on the one floor, displayed chronologically. The Botticelli room IS thrilling, with the “Birth of Venus” and “Spring”, and I also especially like the round Michelangelo painting of the holy family. To have so little to say about this famous gallerywhich contains so many art treasures has always made me feel a bit uncouth, but this one is just too hard. I am glad to go there, and glad to leave.
If you’ve arranged in advance for tickets, and if you don’t, you;ll be waiting in a long line, you pick up your advance ticket inside one doorway, show it at the gallery entrance, and enter the museum without waiting in line.
Accademia Museum home of Michelangelo’s David, his unfinished Prisoners (designed for the tomb of Michelangelo's patron, Pope Julius II), and Florentine paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries. You can also reserve tickets in advance http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/uffizi/default.aspx or have your hotel do it. No photography is permitted.
Ponte Vecchio, is one of the bridges that spans the Arno river at its narrowest point. Until 1218 this was Florence’s only bridge. The bridge was originally inhabited by butchers and tanners who were ousted by the Medicis in the 1500s. Goldsmiths and diamond cutters were installed to improve the ambience and odors. Ponte Vecchio is still lined with shops selling jewelry, scarves, and gloves. In the past, we were happy with the jewelry quality at Dante Cardini, Ponte Vecchio 34r, http://gioielleriacardini.blogspot.c...blog-post.html
Synagogue/Tempio Maggiore. Via Farina 4 Phone: 055-234-6654 Completed 1882. Open: Sun-Fri obligatory guided tours Don’t arrive there with large packs or bags. For more on the Synagogue http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_S...ue_of_Florence
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus..._Florence.html
San Lorenzo Church - The Medici family parish church, begun by Brunelleschi around 1420. The façade is unfinished. The church contains two bronze pulpits by Donatello, his last works, showing Christ's Passion and the Resurrection. www.sanlorenzo.firenze.it
The church is open daily. The Laurentian Library and Medici Chapel have more limited hours, so check on these.
Laurentian Library (Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana) - Access is through the San Lorenzo church from the north aisle, or the cloisters. Library and staircase designed by Michelangelo. Wall frescoes are breathtaking, as is the staircase. Hours are limited.
For more info on the church and the Laurentian library:
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...n_Library.html
The Medici Chapel of the San Lorenzo church was designed by Michelangelo and it contains several of his sculptures which guard two Medici tombs. For more info on the Medici chapel:
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...i_chapels.html
Santa Croce Church: It is beautiful inside, containing the tombs of Dante, Michelangelo, Galileo, Marconi, and Machiavelli. There's quite a bit of scaffolding in there right now, due to restoration work. Machiavelli’s epitaph reads, in Latin, “With such a name there is no need for eulogy.” The monument for Michelangelo is ugly imo, and I was glad he didn’t design it.
There is a leather-working school with a shop, with access from the rear inside of the Santa Croce church There is also an outside entrance. Scuola del Cuoio Firenze www.leatherschool.it via San Giuseppe 5
Museo San Marco A former Dominican monastery rebuilt circa 1436. On the first floor is Fra Angelico’s magnificent fresco of the Annunciation and in the refectory is a Ghirlandaio fresco of the Last Supper (c.1480). Each monk’s cell was frugally and identically furnished and each contained a serious inspirational fresco,by Fra Angelico. The frescoes are almost surrealistic art, particularly unusual for their time. Only one room was larger and more completely furnished, a duplex, actually, that the Medici men used whenever they wanted to retreat to the monastery to take a break from war, wealth and women. I don't think they took breaks very often. The Fra Angelico works at San Marco are some of my favorite works of art, anywhere, but you have to enjoy religious art. Closed on the 2nd and 4th Monday of each month. http://www.firenzemusei.it/00_englis...rco/index.html
Bargello Museum National museum housing Renaissance sculpture by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michelangelo, et. al. This museum is one of my favorites, and it’s small.
During the Renaissance the building was used as a city hall and prison.
On the upper floor are the bronze bas-relief competition panels for the north Bapistery doors by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti depicting the sacrifice of Abraham (Ghiberti won the commission.) The Bargello contains two Michelangelo sculptures that I especially liked, one of the Greek god Bacchus and another one of David, sculpted later than the more famous one. I also love the fabulous colorful terra cotta sculptures by Della Robbia. Open daily, but closed on some Mondays and Sunday,so check http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en...musei/bargello http://www.firenzemusei.it/00_englis...ello/info.html http://www.arca.net/db/musei/bargello.htm
Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) This gothic cathedral is one of the largest in the world. Construction began in 1296 on the site of the Church of Santa Reparata and the church was consecrated in 1436. The neo-Gothic façade was added in the 19th century to complement Giotto's Gothic bell tower. What makes this church so spectacular is Brunelleschi's dome, completed 1436. The dome is so large that traditional techniques of the time would not work. Brunelleschi created two domes, one inside the other, with ribbing in the space between to distribute the weight. He also developed a brick-laying method, using an ancient Roman herringbone pattern, of interlocking the bricks that made the dome self supporting. The inside of the dome is frescoed with the Last Judgment.
If you want to climb to the top, there are 463 steps!
The beautiful pink and green Bell Tower (Campanile) was originally designed by Giotto and is usually called Giotto’s Bell Tower. Building began in 1334 and was completed at the end of the 14th century. The reliefs from the tower are now in the Cathedral museum. The Campanile features a 414-step climb to the top. No elevator. If you want to go about half way, there is a terrace which has a great view of the dome of the Duomo. Open daily 8:30 am to about 6:30 pm. http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/eng.../campanile.asp
The Baptistery the oldest building in Duomo Square, and my favorite of the big three.
It is an octagonal Italian Romanesque building of white and green marble, one of the oldest in Florence. The foundation was laid in the 6th or 7th century. The interior ceiling is of beautifully-colored and gilded mosaics (completed in 1297). The Baptistery’s outstanding outdoor features are the bronze Renaissance doors on the north and east sides designed by Ghiberti, carved between 1403 and 1452 (the originals are in the cathedral museum).
The north doors (1403 - 1424) depict scenes from the life of Christ; the east doors (facing the cathedral) (1425 - 1452) scenes from the Old Testament. Michelangelo declared the east doors worthy to be the Gates of Paradise. The south doors were designed by Pisano in 1330. http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/eng...battistero.asp
The Museum of the Opera (“Works”) of the Duomo, is across the street from the Duomo. This small museum includes a late Pieta by Michelangelo which was sculpted shortly before his death. Much of the cathedral art work is now located here, including the original Ghiberti door panels, Donatello's Mary Magdalen and St. John, and Michelangelo's late Pieta. The figure of Nicodemus which helps to support the Christ figure is said to be a self-portrait of the artist. There are two rooms devoted to Brunelleschi and the Duomo's construction. Open daily, but on Sundays it closes at 2pm. http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/eng...oghi/museo.asp
Casa Buonarroti via Ghibellina, 70, a short walk from the Duomo. www.casabuonarroti.it/english/e-home.htm
Michelangelo bought the house for his nephew Leonardo di Buonaroti but didn’t live in it himself. Now that I’ve been there, I can’t call it a priority, unless you are running out of things to see. It does contain two original sculptures “Battle of the Centaurs and Lapiths,” a marble relief produced when Michelangelo was 17, and “Madonna and Child” (also known as “Madonna of the Steps” (“Madonna della Scala”). This latter is one of Michelangelo’s earliest works and started his career. There is also a wooden crucifix (1494) from Santo Spirito showing Christ as a gentle, handsome youth, rather than sorrowful. Closed Tuesdays. Open other days except holidays, 9:30 am to 2pm.
Suggestions for a Monday in Florence when many museums are closed:
On a Monday you can visit the Duomo, the Campanile, the Baptistery. You can take a 20 minute bus ride (#13) up to Piazzelle Michelangelo for a gorgeous view of Florence, especially at dusk. Most churches, are open every day, though may close for lunch or services. The Palazzo Vecchio is open on Mondays, as is the Museo dell Opera del Duomo. The Bargello museum and the Museo di San Marco (both of which I loved) are open on some Mondays of the month; you'll have to check for the schedule for the time you will be there. Casa Buonarroti and the Museum of Archaelolgy are open on Mondays. See all schedules at www.museumsinflornece.com
Hotel J and J:
I stayed there many years ago. 20 rooms, former 16th century monastery. Inviting public areas, breakfast room overlooks a courtyard,, spacious bedrooms, modern bathrooms. It is a 10-15 minute walk to the Duomo. Quiet street, but easy walking distance to Santa Croce and across the river. Downside to this hotel given its price is that it had no elevator. Rooms 12, 13, and 14 are on the ground floor and open onto the courtyard. #12 is especially large. Room #1 is a duplex, with a loft bed and an awkward spiral staircase to the bathroom. Hotel also has suites. I stopped in this time; rooms still nice, still no elevator.
http://www.jandjhotel.net 20 via di Mezzo
Relais Santa Croce. It’s a member of the Baglioni hotel chain. I just stayed there, and we loved it. Its interior design is a creative and admirable combination of traditional and modern. The room rate included a generous continental breakfast; cooked dishes were available for an additional charge. The coffee was disappointing. The service was pleasant and accommodating, though not flawless. We thought the errors were minor. The bathroom featured nice products and good towels and plumbing. Beds were comfortable; room lighting was good. There is no business center, but there is wi-fi in the main lounge near the reception desk, and they let me borrow a laptop at no charge. Location is wonderfully convenient—it’s on a quiet street, and yet not more than a 10-minute walk to the Duomo. The Bargello museum is down the street. If it fits your budget, I highly recommend this hotel. http://www.relaisantacroce.com/en/index.htm
restaurants
Vivoli Via dell'Isola delle Stinche 7 behind the Bargello “The best ice cream in Florence.”
More gelato places: http://europetogo.yuku.com/topic/2096 http://goitaly.about.com/od/restaura...nce-gelato.htm
The best hot chocolate I’ve ever had is at Rivoire, Piazza della Signoria 5. Rivoire is also the best place for people-watching in Florence and the Piazza della Signoria the most striking square. If you sit outside you can at the same time view the magnificent sculptures displayed in the Piazza, keeping in mind that the “David” is a copy because the original is in the Accademia museum. Seating is available both indoors and outside. Chocolate and sweets are the claim to fame here. The hot chocolate is thick and dark, with a huge portion of whipped cream on top. The gelato creations are great, too. Sandwiches are also available, as is coffee and wine. They also sell gorgeous marzipan confections for shipping. Closed on Mondays?
(Simon) Boccanegra. Via Ghibellina 124/R, Santa Croce. http://www.boccanegra.com/web/index.php Closed Sundays. From fodors.com “Florentine food cognoscenti flock to this place named for a condottiere (mercenary soldier) hero in a Verdi opera. Under high ceilings, candles on every table cast a rosy glow; the fine wine list and superb service make a meal here a true pleasure. The chef has a deft hand with fish dishes, as well as an inventiveness when it comes to reinterpreting such classics as risotto with chicken liver—he adds leek and saffron to give it a lift. Remember to save room for dessert. A less-expensive, less-formal wine bar serving a basic Tuscan menu is also on the premises.”
My comments: We ate there on our first night as it was just down the street from our hotel. We very much liked this restaurant; casual yet a bit upscale, moderate prices (we thought), and really good food.
La Giostra Borgo Pinti 12/r www.ristorantelagiostra.com lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sunday. Off Piazza Salvemini near Santa Croce. From behind the Duomo take Via dell' Oriuolo to Borgo Pinti. Go left to #12.
We loved this place. You receive a slightly eccentric but warm welcome from the staff, and they are happy to make suggestions for your food and wine, or plan the meal for you. The service is friendly and casual, but efficient. The other patrons are a mix of locals and tourists, and everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. The honeymoon couple next to us were there for the second night in a row. We considered doing the same. Food portions were generous; don’t over-order, or, ask for advice.
Leo Santa Croce, via Torta 7r , Santa Croce area http://www.firenzerestaurant.net/ing.html
I can't remember how I found out about this place, because I've never seen it mentioned in a guide book. We’d passed by it during the daytime, and were not enthusiastic about the looks of the outside, but we went for dinner anyway. Good decision! The restaurant wasn’t crowded, the service was personal, warm, and helpful.
The current owner is a grandson of the original Leo. He spoke excellent English; his grandfather had lived in the USA for 20 years. Food was carefully prepared, traditional and yet meticulous, and deliciousl Wine was reasonably-priced, and equally-excellent. We are so glad to have gone there! I want everyone to go there!
On my first trip to Florence we had had a great last dinner at Pallotino. It also just happens to be next door to Vivoli the gelato mecca, so that’s where we had our dessert. On our most recent trip, we went there for a quick and casual lunch. They have a low-cost fixed price lunch special,though portions were small, and nothing special. Maybe it’s a better choice for a la carte ordering, or for dinner. Via Isola della Stinche 1/R. www.trattoriapallottino.com Closed Mondays.
Nov 1st, 2009 | 09:21 PM
#7
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
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I'm glad I went to the Uffizi, but I agree that it's not the easiest museum to enjoy in terms of its physical aspects. Of course part of that is how crowded it is. But I have been to some museums which are an absolute joy to be in, just for themselves, and I don't feel that way about the Uffizi, great as it is in so many ways.
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Nov 2nd, 2009 | 07:26 AM
#9
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 78
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I agree (unfortunately) that Pallotino is not special - easily missed. Have never been to Leo but now I guess I have to! Vivoli is also a great coffee and pastry place in the morning, and you can get a very reasonable lunch there too - something most people overlook. The food is excellent. We have also been having a euro 5.70 fixed lunch next door at Osteria Caffe Italiano. Hard to beat on price and can be very good (usually a pasta or rice dish, and includes - bottled water, wine, bread and coffee - for 5.70!).
Monday's you can also now visit the newly reopened Museo Bardini:
http://www.florence-journal.com/flor...penstion-.html
Monday's you can also now visit the newly reopened Museo Bardini:
http://www.florence-journal.com/flor...penstion-.html
Nov 3rd, 2009 | 05:28 AM
#11
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,637
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thanks for the heads up on the Bardini. Never heard of it before, have added it to my list for the future.
Here's another, more official website for it
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...ni_Museum.html
Here's another, more official website for it
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...ni_Museum.html
