HFlew

Well, not really "Bordeaux or Dordogne", but.... I have spent hours reading countless opinions on this forum as well as others, hence my quandry. We are a family of 4 with two 16 year old girls. We had originally decided on a lovely gite in Beynac with terrific views, close to everything and parking! Then, the family began to question the amount of traffic, crowds and heat expected in August - we would not have a pool, nor A/C. We are also worried that our planned day trips will include greulling struggles with traffic and queues. We could manage this for a few days, but if too difficult would most likely stay put in Beynac. And, remember, we have 2 teenagers, who can only explore so much before their boredom becomes our problem. My husband and I are perfectly happy with a glass of wine, a beautiful patio and nowhere to go. But, we are a family and everyone has a vote. So, here's the proposal we are contemplating. Do we spend all 12 days stationed in Beynac, with day trips most days, but not all, or should we consider splitting our time between Beynac and staying in downtown Bordeaux to enjoy 5 nights of city life? Are the streets of Bordeaux that crowded in August? I saw one picture with thousands of people, shoulder to shoulder, but I'm hopeful that was for a football/soccer match! Of course, if anyone has an alternative to consider, we welcome the insight.

StuDudley

I don't live where it gets hot in the summer - but when we've been in France during a major heatwave (like early last July in the south of France) - I found that the countryside was more "tolerable" than in cities. We get tired quickly walking in cities - but not driving in the countryside. During "max heat" time of the day, you would find us in the air conditioned car doing a "scenic" drive with some village exploring - or bobbing in the swimming pool. Also, I read many years ago that the city of Bordeaux kinda "clears out" in August like Paris does. They probably all go to the Dordogne.

We've never visited the Dordogne in August - only the last week of August (twice) when many of the August crowds have departed. If it gets too crowded near Beynac - head to the other side of the Dordogne river and tour Quercy Blanc or some of the Lot river villages west of Cahors.

If I wanted to escape the heat & crowds in the Dordogne - I might go to the city of Arcachon instead of Bordeaux and do a "beach thing". We've never been there in August, however, so I don't know what the crowds are like.

Stu Dudley

Michael

Sainte Catherine, the main shopping street in Bordeaux empties out at 7 p.m. The center of town is dead in that regard, although the restaurants are still open.


Arcachon will be crowded in August.

StuDudley

SOME restaurants are still open in August. If you look at the first 17 restaurants listed in the Michelin Red Guide that are not hotel restaurants - 11 are closed for multiple weeks in August, and 6 are open throughout August. Of the restaurants that are open, several do not have anything listed for "days closed" - hard to imagine that they are open 365 days a year. They might be closed sometime in August also.

Stu Dudley

Michael

<i>SOME restaurants are still open in August.</i>

I forgot about the <i>clôture annuelle</i>.

StCirq

Why on earth does it have to be Beynac? We have hundreds and hundreds of lovely villages here in the Dordogne, and not all of them are jam-packed in August. I don't understand the problem - you have choices, though admittedly it's late to be booking a place for a family of 4 in August.

Bordeaux is pretty busy in August, but apart from the rue Ste-Cathérine, which is probably where you saw the shoulder-to-shoulder business (and no, it wasn't likely a football match - those folks wouldn't have been on the rue Ste-Cathérine), the city is perfectly navigable in August, and well worth visiting. Whether or not the famous eating spots are open, there are plenty of places to get a good meal, everywhere.

Jeff801

You might want to consider Monpazier as a base. It has good restaurants, pleasant night life in the summer, and good access, along well maintained two lane roads, to many places you might wish to visit. See http://www.monpazier.fr/.

StCirq

Monpazier is beautiful. So are Belvès, Montignac, St-Léon-sur-Vézère, St-Génies, Tamniès, St-Julien, Plazac, Paunat, Siorac, St-Pompon, Daglan, Ste-Alvère, Le Buisson, Limeuil, Journiac...and a huge host of other places.

HFlew

You are full of good information, and I thank you for your insight! We don't require famous eating places, and are not going to France to shop on the rue Ste-Catherine, so I will go back to looking forward to our time in Bordeaux. Now, off to look at the villages you referenced. Appreciate the help, cheers! Of course, if anyone has any additional thoughts to share, I'm still "listening"!

HFlew

me again.... Moving from the gite we booked in Beynac will incur a cancellation cost. Do others agree that I should avoid Beynac for the first week? Again, thank you! And, StCirq, I certainly do not mean to question your advice, you are a known provider of thoughtful considerations!

StuDudley

You have two (close) bridges to head south on over the Dordogne river from Beynac by 10am in the morning to avoid the mid-day crowds - if you want to visit "elsewhere" by car. I would just stay in Beynac and avoid the cancellation costs. I think the 2 teens might like the access to kayaking from Beynac, swimming/sunbathing in the Dordogne, and even the crowds. We've spent 10 weeks in a gite just south of Beynac (across the river) and there are many, many interesting little villages, scenic drives, etc. south of Beynac. I have a 20+ page itinerary I wrote for the Dordogne region, and another 30+ page itinerary for the Languedoc region (south of the Dordogne). I've sent them to over 2,500 people on Fodors. If you would like a copy, e-mail me at [email protected] & I'll attach them to the reply e-mail.

Stu Dudley

StCirq

The cancellation fee is of course a consideration.

You may want to take a look-see at this, though:

https://loren24250.wordpress.com/201...ac-bottleneck/

There are canoë and kayak outfitters all over - beaches too - on both rivers (the Dordogne is far more scenic from a boat, though, than the Vézère).

StuDudley

Another thought!!

We always like to stay IN a crowed/popular place like St Tropez, Gordes, St Remy, & Beynac - so we can be there in the early morning and late afternoon when most of the crowds have departed. From about 11am to 5pm - you'll find us "elsewhere" or doing something like hanging out at the gite/apt, pool, or kayaking mid-day when excessive crowds do not interfere.

St Julien was mentioned above. This villages is just down the road from where we stay. We can walk there in 15-20 mins. There is no commerce in town at all - so no walking to get croissants in the morning, cafe creme, or dinner in the evening. No grocery either. You'll have to get in the car to drive for these things. Good access to the Dordogne and a small beach there - but no place to pick up a kayak.

Stu Dudley