Bordeaux area
Mar 28th, 2007, 12:02 AM
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The Bordeaux Le Lac location is certainly not the place to "experience France at its best", or at least Bordeaux and its region as it is located in the city outskirts (Le Lac is home of the Bordeaux convention centre. Trade fairs take place there)
If you are interested in the city of Bordeaux itself, which has some of the nicest 18th-century urban architecture in France, stay in the historic centre, near the Opera (grand théâtre) for instance.
If you are there for the wineyards, Le Lac is only convenient for the Médoc area (north of Bordeaux).
For the sights in Bordeaux proprer see www.bordeaux-tourisme.fr and for its area www.tourisme-gironde.cg33.fr
If you are interested in the city of Bordeaux itself, which has some of the nicest 18th-century urban architecture in France, stay in the historic centre, near the Opera (grand théâtre) for instance.
If you are there for the wineyards, Le Lac is only convenient for the Médoc area (north of Bordeaux).
For the sights in Bordeaux proprer see www.bordeaux-tourisme.fr and for its area www.tourisme-gironde.cg33.fr
Mar 28th, 2007, 03:09 AM
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Hello jj:
Following Trudaine's suggestion, we had a very nice experience staying in central Bordeaux at the Hotel Burdigala:
http://www.burdigala.com/
The hotel is an easy walk to the central shopping/historic area and to a stop on the city's new tram system. The Concierge arranged for visits to wineries around Bordeaux. We had a wonderful visit. Good luck. Gradyghost
Following Trudaine's suggestion, we had a very nice experience staying in central Bordeaux at the Hotel Burdigala:
http://www.burdigala.com/
The hotel is an easy walk to the central shopping/historic area and to a stop on the city's new tram system. The Concierge arranged for visits to wineries around Bordeaux. We had a wonderful visit. Good luck. Gradyghost
Mar 28th, 2007, 03:53 AM
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Hi jj,
> I really want to experience France at its best.<
I don't think that Bordeaux is the place to do it.
If you have to stay in Bordeaux, there is a nice Sunday market at the Cruiser Colbert.
The old town is interesting.
You can take the train to Arcachon.
Have you looked up Bordeaux under "Destinations"?
> I really want to experience France at its best.<
I don't think that Bordeaux is the place to do it.
If you have to stay in Bordeaux, there is a nice Sunday market at the Cruiser Colbert.
The old town is interesting.
You can take the train to Arcachon.
Have you looked up Bordeaux under "Destinations"?
Mar 28th, 2007, 11:50 AM
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thanks for the responses. We have no choice in the hotel or the city, the trip is preplanned. So I need to make the best out of where we are-- the reason for my search. Now I am worried, is the hotel not a nice place to stay or is it just poor location. I have a problem with unclean hotels. I will continue my planning in the area,
Mar 28th, 2007, 12:56 PM
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Don't worry, the hotel is perfectly clean, it's just in a sterile suburban location that is certainly not "France at its best." But you can easily get from there into the center of Bordeaux, which as noted by others has some lovely architecture.
Don't know if this would appeal to you, but one unique place to visit near Bordeaux is the Caudalie wine spa, where all the treatments are based on grapes and wine (facial scrubs made from grape seeds, honey-and-merlot body wraps, that sort of thing). It's very upscale (and don't worry, VERY clean!), and besides the spa there is an excellent restaurant. There's also a hotel, but I gather you will need to stay at the Sofitel.
Don't know if this would appeal to you, but one unique place to visit near Bordeaux is the Caudalie wine spa, where all the treatments are based on grapes and wine (facial scrubs made from grape seeds, honey-and-merlot body wraps, that sort of thing). It's very upscale (and don't worry, VERY clean!), and besides the spa there is an excellent restaurant. There's also a hotel, but I gather you will need to stay at the Sofitel.
Mar 28th, 2007, 01:53 PM
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thanks again. As I have confessed in my other posts-- I am going through the planned Itinery and trying to make the best of each stop. I am going to figure out what to see in Bordeaux--whether it be architecture, wine, food or whatever else I find. I am doing the websites that were posted here earlier. Thanks thanks thanks
Mar 28th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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Le Lac is basically an industrial complex. Sofitel is a well-known French chain - sterile but clean.
Here are some notes I've put together on Bordeaux over the years:
Bordeaux itself is a marvelous city, albeit it one that doesn't attract too many Americans. The old-city pedestrian area fanning out from the rue Ste-Cathérine (off the Place de la Comédie) is a maze of streets full of small versions of the major department stores, many specialty shops, cafés, and restaurants. In summertime there are often musicians and street performers entertaining crowds in this area.
You'll definitely want to visit the Grand Théatre, arguably the most beautiful theatre in Europe; the Esplanade des Quinconces, the cathedral, the Musée des Beaux Arts, and the old merchants' quarter, the Quartier des Chartrons, with its beautiful 18th-century architecture. Be sure to wander around the Place du Parliament, but with the exception of Chez Philippe (a marvelous seafood restaurant), be careful of the tempting array of restaurants there - they exist pretty much to pull in Americans who walk up from cruises on the quai and are quite uniformly mediocre and overpriced - too bad, because the square itself is lovely. There's a fresh market right behind the square on Saturdays.
To help you get oriented to the surrounding area, I'd suggest you stop at the very helpful Tourist Office at 12 Cours du 30 juillet in the center of town. The Maison du Vin at 30 Cours du 30 Juillet can give you boodles of information on the local wine châteaux and tours thereto, if you want to do that, or you can get information for going yourself.
Don't overlook the attractions east of the city, either. Arcachon is a lovely seaside town where all the wine widows built their mansions in the early part of the century. Have lunch there on the water and slurp some of the best oysters in the world, then stop for an ice cream at the stand on the boardwalk - some of the best in France. Try to find time to see the Dune du Pylat also - certainly one of the wonders of France. Go out to Cap Ferret and take the little train around the dunes, then stop at one of the casual cafés along the water where the oyster beds are lined up and have a glass of good white wine and some more oysters.
Restaurants
Bordeaux overflows with great restaurants, and wine bars, of course.
Some of our favorites are:
Bodega-Bodega, 4, rue des Pillers-de-Tutelle (tapas and typical Andalusian food - I know, not what you came to France for, but it's nice after a few days of foie gras and confit de canard);
Chez Dupont, 45, rue Notre-Dame, a lively bistro with hearty meals like pot-au-feu and fricassée of sea scallops in morille sauce;
le Bistrot d'Edouard, 16, place du Parlement (an absolutely delightful square, but don't just walk into any restaurant here - most of them are tourist traps with terrible food), serving SW France specialties);
Restaurant le Port de la Lune, 59, quai de Paludate
Restaurant Gravelier, 114, cours de Verdun
la Boîte à Huitres (for the freshest shellfish with white wine or champage - it's literally a hole in the wall), 8, rue de la Vielle-Tour
Didier Gélineau, 26 rue du Pas-Saint-Georges.
La Tupina: 6, Porte de la Monnaie - bistro-type food in a classic Bordelais atmosphere. Local specialties. Moderate to expensive
Le Clavel-St-Jean, 44, rue Charles-Domercq. Wine bar (one of the few where you can order by the glass), modern décor, varied and delicious menus. Moderate.
Le Chapon Fin, 5, rue de Montesquieu. Bordeaux's hallmark restaurant. Traditional Bordelais cuisine, beautifully prepared. Expensive.
Hotels
We like the Hôtel Etche-Ona Hôtel and its sister hotel, the Bayonne. Both are owned by the Parinaud family, and both are three stars, but they are vastly different - the Etche-Ona is very old-Basque in style, with massive carved furniture, whereas the Bayonne is starkly modern. Both are within a stone's throw of the Place de la Comédie and the pedestrian area.
Here are some notes I've put together on Bordeaux over the years:
Bordeaux itself is a marvelous city, albeit it one that doesn't attract too many Americans. The old-city pedestrian area fanning out from the rue Ste-Cathérine (off the Place de la Comédie) is a maze of streets full of small versions of the major department stores, many specialty shops, cafés, and restaurants. In summertime there are often musicians and street performers entertaining crowds in this area.
You'll definitely want to visit the Grand Théatre, arguably the most beautiful theatre in Europe; the Esplanade des Quinconces, the cathedral, the Musée des Beaux Arts, and the old merchants' quarter, the Quartier des Chartrons, with its beautiful 18th-century architecture. Be sure to wander around the Place du Parliament, but with the exception of Chez Philippe (a marvelous seafood restaurant), be careful of the tempting array of restaurants there - they exist pretty much to pull in Americans who walk up from cruises on the quai and are quite uniformly mediocre and overpriced - too bad, because the square itself is lovely. There's a fresh market right behind the square on Saturdays.
To help you get oriented to the surrounding area, I'd suggest you stop at the very helpful Tourist Office at 12 Cours du 30 juillet in the center of town. The Maison du Vin at 30 Cours du 30 Juillet can give you boodles of information on the local wine châteaux and tours thereto, if you want to do that, or you can get information for going yourself.
Don't overlook the attractions east of the city, either. Arcachon is a lovely seaside town where all the wine widows built their mansions in the early part of the century. Have lunch there on the water and slurp some of the best oysters in the world, then stop for an ice cream at the stand on the boardwalk - some of the best in France. Try to find time to see the Dune du Pylat also - certainly one of the wonders of France. Go out to Cap Ferret and take the little train around the dunes, then stop at one of the casual cafés along the water where the oyster beds are lined up and have a glass of good white wine and some more oysters.
Restaurants
Bordeaux overflows with great restaurants, and wine bars, of course.
Some of our favorites are:
Bodega-Bodega, 4, rue des Pillers-de-Tutelle (tapas and typical Andalusian food - I know, not what you came to France for, but it's nice after a few days of foie gras and confit de canard);
Chez Dupont, 45, rue Notre-Dame, a lively bistro with hearty meals like pot-au-feu and fricassée of sea scallops in morille sauce;
le Bistrot d'Edouard, 16, place du Parlement (an absolutely delightful square, but don't just walk into any restaurant here - most of them are tourist traps with terrible food), serving SW France specialties);
Restaurant le Port de la Lune, 59, quai de Paludate
Restaurant Gravelier, 114, cours de Verdun
la Boîte à Huitres (for the freshest shellfish with white wine or champage - it's literally a hole in the wall), 8, rue de la Vielle-Tour
Didier Gélineau, 26 rue du Pas-Saint-Georges.
La Tupina: 6, Porte de la Monnaie - bistro-type food in a classic Bordelais atmosphere. Local specialties. Moderate to expensive
Le Clavel-St-Jean, 44, rue Charles-Domercq. Wine bar (one of the few where you can order by the glass), modern décor, varied and delicious menus. Moderate.
Le Chapon Fin, 5, rue de Montesquieu. Bordeaux's hallmark restaurant. Traditional Bordelais cuisine, beautifully prepared. Expensive.
Hotels
We like the Hôtel Etche-Ona Hôtel and its sister hotel, the Bayonne. Both are owned by the Parinaud family, and both are three stars, but they are vastly different - the Etche-Ona is very old-Basque in style, with massive carved furniture, whereas the Bayonne is starkly modern. Both are within a stone's throw of the Place de la Comédie and the pedestrian area.
Mar 28th, 2007, 02:26 PM
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If you like museums, the Musée d'Aquitane is very good (covering human history from 40,000 years back to modern times) and is free. I was well impressed.
Get all-day tickets for public transport, and explore all three tram lines from end to end. Cheap entertainment.
Get all-day tickets for public transport, and explore all three tram lines from end to end. Cheap entertainment.
Mar 28th, 2007, 02:45 PM
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Hi J,
> I am going to figure out what to see in Bordeaux--whether it be architecture, wine, food or whatever else I find. <
Will you be there in a month with an R in it?
Arcachon oysters are superb, especially with a bottle of Sancerre.
I know, oysters are farmed, and the season doesn't matter, but I am a purist.
> I am going to figure out what to see in Bordeaux--whether it be architecture, wine, food or whatever else I find. <
Will you be there in a month with an R in it?
Arcachon oysters are superb, especially with a bottle of Sancerre.
I know, oysters are farmed, and the season doesn't matter, but I am a purist.
Mar 28th, 2007, 03:20 PM
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ira wrote: "Arcachon oysters are superb, especially with a bottle of Sancerre."
A Loire wine in Bordeaux? What's wrong with Graves? Or, if you are not too proud to drink a cheap and often underrated wine, Entre Deux Mers?
A Loire wine in Bordeaux? What's wrong with Graves? Or, if you are not too proud to drink a cheap and often underrated wine, Entre Deux Mers?
Mar 28th, 2007, 03:28 PM
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I am taking notes on the suggestions. The next question, we are scheduled to have a dinner at Bo Rivage and "Le Pavilion Garonne. What type of resturants are we going to experience?
Mar 28th, 2007, 03:33 PM
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If oysters turn you on, I highly recommend ducking into the tiny Boîte à Huitres in Bordeaux, where they serve nothing but oysters and other shellfish and white wines and Champagne. I agree Entre Deux Mers is a lovely complement to the local oysters.
On a kind of amusing note, I was there one evening and looking at the chalkboard where they list the oysters they're serving that day and their place of origin, and one of the listings was "Chincoteague." Say what? How on earth...? So I asked the owner how in the world he was offering oysters from Chincoteague (an island off the coast of VA and a place I've spent many a summer week in), and turns out his brother is a VA oysterman! Small world
On a kind of amusing note, I was there one evening and looking at the chalkboard where they list the oysters they're serving that day and their place of origin, and one of the listings was "Chincoteague." Say what? How on earth...? So I asked the owner how in the world he was offering oysters from Chincoteague (an island off the coast of VA and a place I've spent many a summer week in), and turns out his brother is a VA oysterman! Small world
Mar 28th, 2007, 03:39 PM
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As for Bo Rivage and Pavillon de la Garonne, well, everyone's take on food and setting is different, but I would characterize both these places as "snob restaurants" with prices that way outstrip the level of competence of the kitchen and the service. Nice views from both, though. But in a city like Bordeaux that has some of the truly gastronomic wonders of France, I'd not choose either of these culinary venues.
