carrom

We have to be in Millau (Gorges du Tarn area) for a competition end of June. We will probably fly from Rome to Marseille rent a car and drive straight there. On the return trip however we would like to spend approx 5 days touring around the Bordeaux area before dropping off the car in Marseille. We are intersted in eating and drinking and staying in some really special charachterful places. No limit on budget (well almost!)We don't know this area of France at all. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks.

StCirq

Five days is really bare bones to get from Millau to Bordeaux and back to Marseille, considering the treasures that lie between those points. What lures you to Bordeaux?

Just off the top of my head I'd say you should meander from Millau to Rodez to Villeneuve-sur-Rouerge to Figeac and spend the first night at the Hôtel Château Viguier du Roy (http://www.chateau-viguier-figeac.com/intro.htm).

Then visit Rocamadour and the Gouffre de Padirac and Collonges-la-Rouge and Martel and end up in Sarlat for the night at the Hôtel La Madeleine (http://www.hoteldelamadeleine-sarlat.com/)

From there you could get to Bordeaux in 3 hours - but oh my lord what you'd be missing!

It's a good 6-7 hours of highway driving from Bordeaux to Marseille - not fun, IMO....

Trudaine

Do note there are vineyards between Millau and Marseille, especially those of the Languedoc area.

carrom

Thanks StCirq, We don't necessarily have to get to Bordeaux but we're not interested in the area around Millau or from Millau to Marseille because we've been there quite recently. I thought the bordeaux area would be very interesting food/wine wise but I certainly wouldn't want to miss any treasures on the way! Maybe i should try and fly into an airport closer to Millau. Meanwhile I'll look at your suggestions. Thanks a lot.

StCirq

Hi, carrom:

Just park yourself in the Dordogne for 4 days. Drink Bergeracs and Pécharmants and Monbazillacs. Explore the rivers and caves and castles and "plus beaux villages de France." Eat yourself silly. Forget Bordeaux (nice place but too far given the timeframe you're working with).

StuDudley

I'm a travel book junkie, and my wife & I spend 2 months in France most years. In all my reading, I have never read anything that would lure me to the area around Bordeaux - there are so many regions in France that are much better than I imagine the Bordeaux region to be. I have visited the city of Bordeaux.

One of my book states that the famous wine growing areas of the Medoc have not prospered from the wealth brought in by the wine industry. It even said that the region was kinda dusty & not that attractive at all.

My favorite areas in France are Provence in the late spring during lavender season, and the Dordogne in Fall.

Stu Dudley

carrom

I'm obviously confused....I thought Bordeaux was in or very near the Dordogne region. i thought places like St. Emilion were beautiful and full of chateaux, restaurants and wineries....am I getting things mixed up? I have travelled through Provence and the Cote d'Azure many times this is why I'm thinking of flying to marseille rather than driving from Rome. We have to go to Millau so I thought the Bordeaux region would be close by and interesting. But very happy for any suggestions and willing to take advice. Thanks.

StuDudley

I certainly consider the Dordogne to be a different region than Bordeaux. I've driven from the city of Bordeaux to the Dordogne (or other way) about 5 times, and the only thing interesting in between is St Emilion. It's a cute town, but rather touristy and about 80% of the shops are wine shops. I think Sarlat, Perigueux, and Figeac in the Dordogne/Lot are much more charming than St Emilion. The other "stuff" in the Dordogne, and it's immediate neighbors in the Lot & Correze are "scads" more interesting than anything I've read about near the Bordeaux/Medoc region.

The Cadogan guide has 105 pages dedicated to the Dordogne/Perigord region, and 45 to the neighboring Lot/Quercy. 24 pages are dedicated to the City of Bordeaux, and 40 to other areas of Bordeaux.

Stu Dudley

StCirq

Well, sure, St-Emilion and Bordeaux are "near the Dordogne" (Bordeaux's about 90 miles from Sarlat),but they're a whole other kettle of fish. As Stu mentioned, the area around Bordeaux, despite being populated with a lot of fancy wine château, doesn't hold a candle to the Dordogne in terms of scenery, beautiful villages, lazy rivers, castles, etc. It's quite dull, actually. And while St-Emilion makes a nice stopover and is a pretty cute town, it's not going to bowl you over the way, say, Beynac will.

If you're looking for quaint villages, charming towns, lovely scenery, etc., there's no need to continue to the Bordeaux area because it's all right there in the Dordogne, specifically in the Périgord Noir.

carrom

Thanks, it looks like you guys really know what you're talking about! I remember reading about you Stu in a trip report recently (Ira?). It sounded a lot like what we'd like to do. I think we'll forget Bordeaux and stick to the Dordogne. We certainly don't want to do anything too touristy. We have our own cantina in Italy and are interested in visiting wineries though not necessarily the big Banfi style places - though France is probably quite different. We have plenty of time to plan so if you have any other tips ( restaurants, mus-sees , must-tastes) I will really appreciate. Thanks.

StuDudley

I have a 20+ page itinerary that has all my must sees, and also very detailed restaurant descriptions from my wife's diary. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.

Stu Dudley

tedgale

If you have only 5 days and need to be back in Marseille at the end of the 5th, Bordeaux is really too far, IMO.

And why would you venture so far away from the fantstic towns that St Cirq recommends -- you might see something different but you couldn't see anything better.

To Martel and Collonges, I would add tiny Autoire, plus Carennac, Beaulieu sur Dordogne, Turenne.

And maybe Cahors and Albi (if you chose to return via Toulouse)

Sorry, must stop: I'm adding side trips that will keep you behind the wheel all 5 days.

Which is manifestly NOT the point.......

cigalechanta

Should you go to Millau be sure to cross that new bridge, breathtaking!

GregY2

Do you have any choice about your entry/departure points? Using Montpellier or Toulouse airports instead of Marseille would save you a lot of driving. I also agree with Cigalechanta, the new bridge at Millau is superb - see it if you can.

carrom

The problem is that there don't seem to be any direct flights from Rome but I'll check again. It does seem more sensible. Initially we were thinking of driving all the way from Italy so we could stock up our car with cheese and wine but I think that will make it all much too long considering we have to spend 4 nights in Millau. Thanks for all the suggestions.

ira

Hi C,

Take a look at my trip report again:

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645

Photos at http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-pla2au

See what we did in the region from Narbonne to Beynac.

The Gorges du Tarn, Conques and Figeac are particularly beautiful.

carrom

Great photos Ira. Thanks everybody. Have ordered maps and Cadogan guide. Why go to Bordeaux when you can stick around in the Dordogne!

StCirq

Now you're talkin', carrom

lp_nyc

I have a quick question to ask based on this thread (if anyone is listening...)

We are in the early stages of planning a trip to Provence and Dordogne (split between the two, sort of) and I was thinking of taking the TGV either into Avignon (we want to return to Le Vallon for a few days for our stay in Provence) or Bordeaux/Libourne and then returning to Paris for husband to fly back to NYC and myself to go to Wales to see friends. We can start at either end at this point.

So my question is-- is it a mistake to do Bordeaux/St. Emillion for one night or none as a gateway either into or out of the Dordogne via Paris?

Last year when we planned our HM, it seemed like a headache to fly to cities outside of Paris and that the TGV to a 'major' city in a region was a better option (and picking up a rental car at the train station)

BTW- Stu, Ira and StCirq -- you're trip reports and threads have been wonderful with loads of info and am culling information daily! I've even managed to get my husband (who had some trepidation when I first mentioned the Dordogne to him) to get excited about the area too.

ira

Hi lp,

We drove from Beynac-et-Cazenac to Libourne and took the TGV to Paris Montparnasse.

The drive isn't particularly scenic, but you do get to see how France is different from the US.

Select the "avoiding tolls" option at www.viamichelin.com.

You will see St Emilion from the D670 as you head for Libourne.

It's worth stopping off or spending the night.

AutoEurope has a drop off across the street from the train station in Libourne. Park the car on the sidewalk.