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Bologna - Advice from SusannaL (and others)

Bologna - Advice from SusannaL (and others)

Old Mar 2nd, 2004, 12:25 AM
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Bologna - Advice from SusannaL (and others)

SusannaL - You had some helpful posts about Emilia-Romagna several days ago.

I'm another Fodorite who'll be in the Bologna area on vacation, though only for two days, on the way to meet a group in Chiusi (we'll be coming from Venice in a car, probably taking the road down the coast through Ravenna). I'd love any suggestions you might have.

With two days, what would you suggest? The rest of our trip will be at an inn in the countryside, so we'd probably want more of a city experience in Emilia-Romagna. Would you suggest staying in Bologna over Ferrara (my husband is leaning toward a smaller city)? And what other restaurants would you recommend? We're big foodies, so are looking for typical, well-prepared meals in any price range.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2004, 06:58 AM
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I can recommend a wonderful restaurant in Ferrara: Il Bagattino Trattoria on Via Correggiani 6.
We found Bologna to be a real serendipity! We loved it. Its Museo Civico has a wonderful Etruscan collection and is worth a visit. And, just walking around the Piazza Maggiore area is what Italy is all about!
Also, check out the duomo which has a fascinating history.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2004, 06:56 PM
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Good evening, Lexma90
Would pick Bologna, as it is not tht large and very walkable. There are two ristorantes near the Pza Maggiore...
1. LA MELA, via de Fuksary, 5 about a half block from Pza. Excellant Pizza and Bolognese cooking, fish also very good. $$$ reservations suggested.
2. Trattoria Da Adolfo, Corte Galluzzi, 7 about a block up the De Fusari, small courtyard to left. This is a very small Ma and Pa Ristorante
with about 8 tables. very good and
reasonable food and reservations are
a must. $$$.... Also recall that the stores close at noon on Thursday, no
shopping.. Richard of LaGrange Park, IL>
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Old Mar 4th, 2004, 07:55 AM
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Hi, Lexma,
If you read Italian, go to the Slow Food site. You have to register but it has a lot of information. The hot restaurant now, or at least one of them, is Camminetto d'Oro. Great food. It has a web site if you do a search.

If you are a foodie, I respectively disagree with La Mela. There are too many other good restaurants in Bologna. One preferred by Arnold, as in the governor of California, is Drogheria della Rosa. But don't mention it to the chef/owner. You will never get out of there. And I have never had a bad meal at Scacco Matto.

Have fun.
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Old Mar 4th, 2004, 12:06 PM
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Hi Lexma90,

You can't go wrong with either Bologna or Ferrara. Ferrara is definitely smaller and much easier to navigate by car than Bologna. But there is only one Bologna! I love them both.

Re: restaurants in Bologna, I agree with SantaChiara about Caminetto d'Oro. Great traditional food, intimate and charming soace and they have a non-smoking room. Also try Trattoria da Gianni, Serghei (Slow Food member) and Trattoria Anna Maria.

In Ferrara we loved Osteria Antica delle Volte, located in the medieval quarter on a narrow, cobblestoned street. Also try Al Brindisi, which claims to be the oldest osteria in the world. It is also an enoteca. There are only about 6 tables, so reserve ahead. The sit-down portion of this establishment is non-smoking.

I have heard (but not experienced) that the coastal road from Venice to Ravenna can be a nightmare to drive because of very heavy traffic. If you decide on Bologna, I would avoid this route.
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Old Mar 4th, 2004, 12:29 PM
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Hi Lex,

You might find the Bologna part of my trip report helpful:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34451044
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Old Mar 4th, 2004, 07:01 PM
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Thank you, thank you, all! I have far more restaurants than we'll be able to eat at! I especially like Caminetto d'Oro, as from the menu listed on their website, they offer a TRUFFLE section. My husband would travel miles out of his way for truffles.

On the coast road, we'd be driving it on a Friday afternoon at the beginning of October; I was assuming that we wouldn't need to worry about traffic as it would be after the beach season. Could I be wrong?

Any advice about hotels would be greatly appreciated too (Ferrara or Bologna) (I promise I've read all the recent hotel posts on these cities).
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Old Mar 4th, 2004, 08:00 PM
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Regarding the coast road (remember, I haven't driven it myself) is that most of it is one lane in each direction. There doesn't have to be much traffic, but a couple of slower moving trucks can really muck things up. Also, it doesn't appear to be particularly scenic, with a couple of exceptions. Most of the scenic bits are side detours off of the coast road. If you do drive it, please post and give us the scoop.

Hotels in Ferrara-I stayed at the Duchessa Isabella. I posted something about it a week or so ago.

Hotels in Bologna-The same family owns and operates the Corona d'Oro, the Commercianti and the Orologio. 4* and 3* respectively and all are well located in the centro. I have heard good things about the Roma (3*) and it happens to be on one of my favorite streets in Bologna. It is a pedestrian only street, somewhat wide, with lots of great shops (mostly fashion-related). It seems to be reasonably priced as well.
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