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Belated Croatia Trip Report

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Belated Croatia Trip Report

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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 08:34 AM
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This past March and April was mostly overcast and it rained and rained. There were some rather nice days, but not often enough for me. Most of the shops do not reopen until mid April and then they gradually open by 01 May. Spring really arrived this year at the end of April and we hit summer rather quickly.

Winter is not the best choice for a visit to Dubrovnik. Late spring and early summer. The big crowds start arriving in July and August. Remember one thing, the mega cruisers with the hoards arrive here on Saturday and Sunday. During the week it isn't that bad, in spring. Europeans don't arrive until summer and boy are they here now! Another week and they are gone - until next year.

Dobrodosli
An American Living in Dubrovnik
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 08:52 AM
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Croatian Travel Lady--we are trying to plan our time in Dubrovnik when there are no or few cruise ship passengers. Is the site you gave me (porttime.com) fairly accurate? Will it change much between now and next June? What times of day do the passengers take over your city? Thanks!!
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 09:33 AM
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Hi Digbydog,

I don't live in Dubrovnik, but just visited in June. Check out my Day 13 on my current trip report which talks about the "Invasion of the Cruise People." Looked like the big hours of the cruise locusts were between 9 and 4.

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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 10:37 AM
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What a wonderful way to describe them, the invasion of the cruise locusts arrive from 0800 until 1600. Again the worst day is Saturday, then Sunday. The rest of the week is much nicer.

Port time is fairly accurate in that it does display the mega cruisers. It does, however, not show any of the European ships which come in from France, Italy and Great Britain. How much will it change by next June, I couldn't tell you. I doubt that it will be less and perhaps more. June isn't as bad as July and August because that's when the European land tourists arrive. August is the big month and it's just horrible. Cruisers have attitude and do not really contribute to the local economy. This is my big complaint, some even return to the ship for lunch. I apolgize but it saddens us so to see them walk the Stradun, eating ice cream and looking up at the city walls.
The most interesting fact is that they all line up for an hour to go up at the city walls, at the Pile gate. There are a total of 4 entrances to the walls and they all stand in one spot and wait. Walking the city walls and taking photos will make the entire trip about 2 hours. Why stand in line for 1 hour???

Come enjoy our town, it's lovely in very early summer. Spend some time here and really get to meet some of the residents. Eat at the small hidden restaurants.

There are so many places to visit and some are very moving, especially the war memorial photo gallery.

Walk up to the Ploce gate and you will find Kata and her dog. She is dressed in the typical Kovela costume and doing handwork, sitting on the steps. She is not there during August, because of the heat and the amount of tourists.

Come during the off season, it's wonderful and so much to see. One afternoon is enough time, how can anyone imagine it might be.

Dobrodosli
An American Living in Dubrovnik
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 10:55 AM
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"The most interesting fact is that they all line up for an hour to go up at the city walls, at the Pile gate."

croatiantravellady, You are so correct. We would go through the Pile gate at least a few times a day, and the line going up the stairs at that entry point to the wall was packed between 10 and 2.

We ended up using that entrance on the day we walked the walls, but entered at 2:45 (14:45), when there was no line going up to the walls whatsoever.

It did take about two hours, and between the Dubrovnik Walls and Plitvice National Park, I set my all-time photo taking record. We loved Dubrovnik!!!!


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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 03:09 PM
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Mai Tai Tom--I have been reading your wonderful trip report. I am amazed by your creative titles! What I wouldn't give to have all that travel time!!!

Croatian Travel Lady--Thanks for the info! I have come up with about 20 different itineraries. Of the two that work best, one would have us in Dubrovnik on a Saturday (lots of cruisers), Sunday (lots of cruisers), and Monday (no cruisers). If we did this, we would spend most of Saturday in Korcula and the Peljesac Peninsula and Sunday in Kotor, giving us Monday to explore Dubrovnik. The other would have us in Dubrovnik on Tuesday (1080 cruisers), Wednesday (1950 cruisers), and Thursday (no cruisers). If we do the second itinerary, we will have 3924 cruisers in Split, which we would not have with the first itinerary.

Would it be better to do the first and have no cruises in Split and steer clear of Dubrovnik during the crowded hours or do the second, dealing with the cruisers in Split?
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 07:52 PM
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Alex75--

We did purchase the rail tickets from Ancona to Venice on line prior to our trip (we also purchased our ferry tickets from Split to Ancona on line prior to the trip). We had no problems at all with either the ferry or train reservation and it was one less thing to worry about over there. The train station is technically in walking distance from the ferry in Ancona-- we walked it-- but I would recommend taking a taxi if possible. There are several smaller train stations in Ancona and, as we didn't know exactly where we were going, it took us a while (I think it was at least 2 miles anyway) and was a bit confusing. The ferry docked right at 7:00 am and we were scheduled for a 10:10 am train so we had plenty of time to walk but if you want to take an earlier train you might have trouble making it if you walk. Our train to Venice took roughly 4 1/2 hours (no changes) but the length of time varies depending on what train you take. Google or Goodsearch italian train schedules and you should be able to get a firmer idea. Enjoy!
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Old Aug 23rd, 2008, 08:59 PM
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Digbydog:

You must understand that I feel Duburvnik is the best city here, but that said I want you to come here with the fewest tourists.

Do not stay in Split and you don't need that much time there. Stay in Trogir another Unesco site and absolutey lovely and charming. Split is a major city, once you've seen what remains of the Palce go back to Trogir for the night. Split is so much larger than Dubrovnik and the cruisers are not located in just one small area, they are wandering all over the seafront.

The Peljesac peninsula is my ancestral home, as Mother was born in Orebic. It's a wonderful old town and I love it there. You can stay in orebic and take the small ferry over to the island of Korcula.

What time of year is this trip going to happen? Are you driving or going for public transportation. Jadrolinja is the ferry service from Split to Korcula to Dubrovnik. It's the only way to see the Dalmatian coast, from the sea.

You do know that you can fly into Zagreb and out of Dubrovnik. Also please note that Croatian air only shows their flights and fares 6 months in advance. Since they have joined the star alliance this may change for the better.

If you are driving, make the reservation to drop the car Dubrovnik upon arrival. You should drive from Orebic to Ston, eat lunch, continue to Trsteno Aboretum and finally Dubrovnik.

I do invite you to email me also with details. As a retired travel consultant I still love helping, even after 30 years in the business.

Dobrodosli
Carol
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Old Aug 24th, 2008, 04:32 AM
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thank you for your quick response, CordeliaCH. That helps with our decision. We will have a total of 9 days of holiday (excluding our return departure day) and was wondering if squeezing in the trip to Venice was sensible. your trip report has helped. There is so much to see and experience in Croatia, but have always dreamed of visiting Venice as well. Who knows? There is so much research and planning yet to be done - which to me is so much a part of the fun and adventure of a trip!
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Old Aug 24th, 2008, 05:47 AM
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Thanks so much for your help, Croatian Travel Lady! I will e-mail you with my questions so that I don't further hijack Cordelia's wonderful trip report.
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Old Aug 24th, 2008, 06:34 AM
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CordeliaCH, Thanks for sharing your lovely trip report of your visit to Croatia. I'm really enjoying it and storing as much as information as possible as I plan on one day visiting Croatia (it is a dream of mine to visit Croatia). Also thanking croatiantravelady for providing such wonderful insights of her home town.

jdc
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Old Aug 28th, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Lots of great info. Thanks.
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