Belated Croatia Trip Report
 

I had intended to write this trip report months ago but better late than never I hope! My husband and I went to the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia last May for a week and then to Venice for a few days before flying home. We completely fell in love with Croatia, to the extent that when we were in Venice we still wished we were in Croatia! Also, we have already booked another trip to Croatia to visit places we weren't able to go before! We got a lot of excellent advice from Fodors travellers and would like to help others by sharing from our experience.

We flew into Dubrovnik. We had made arrangements at a sobe (apartment) called Room Karla. For a small fee they picked us up at the airport and drove us to the sobe. Room Karla is located just outside the Old Town walls, literally across the street from the MInceta Fortress. A very sweet lady named Maria runs the place and kept us supplied with juice, beer and whatever snacks were on hand in the afternoons. There wasn't a view out the window of our room but the room has a rooftop terrace with a picnic table and chairs and a most beautiful view of the walls, the Old Town and the Sea. We really loved Room Karla, and found it very convenient and easy. It was also really affordable, especially compared to some of the hotels.

If I were to do a day by day report it would take ages, so I'll try to just hit the highlights. First, evening/ nightlife. We spent a couple of long evenings at Buza Bar. We couldn't see the sunset from there but watching the dusk roll in and the moon rise over Lokrum was divine. We also enjoyed the bar that used to be called Hemingways (I don't think that is the name anymore but can't remember what it is called now). It is near the Cathedral and across from Rector's Palace, I think. We also really enjoyed Troubador's Hard Jazz Cafe, which is also near the Cathedral, around the corner from Hemingways. Live music, mostly American or British Rock and Roll. Great fun.

Speaking of the Cathedral, we did go in it and pay to see what are allegedly Christ's swaddling clothes and a piece of the True Cross. The tour guide somewhat dismissed the swaffling clothes legend but indicated that the piece of the true cross is believed to be legitimate. It is worth seeing. We also peeked in the Serbian Orthodox Church-- the artwork in there was pretty impressive. My favorite, though, was the interior of the Jesuit Church, which is modeled after a church in Rome and even holds a grotto. The whole interior was visually stunning and took my breath away.

Food... ah, the food. We ate TONS of gelato. I love gelato and haven't found a place at home that makes authentic gelato so I go a little crazy about it when we go someplace in Europe that has it. We also ate a lot of pizza-- seems like we had lunch every day (we were in Dubrovnik for 3 and a half days). Our favorite was at Mea Culpa, which is a couple of blocks off of the Stradum. HUGE pizzas so we were able to split one and have some salad. For dinner, we recommend Konoba Coloseum, which is at the foot of a staircase that reminded me of the Spanish Steps in Rome. The steps lead down from the Jesuit Church to a square behind the Cathedral and Konoba Coloseum is just at the bottom of them. Konoba Coloseum is owned and run by Jerko (J sounds like Y), who is in his late 20s or early 30s and is friendly and serves excellent food! We especially loved his fresh salads and make them at home on a weekly basis, but the main dishes were delicious as well. It is also affordable. We ate dinner there one night and the next ate at a fancier, more expensive place but then went back to Konoba Coloseum the next night because we actually preferred the food and atmosphere there.

Day trips and activities. Our first morning in Dubrovnik we took a couple of hours to walk the walls. We probably have 150 pictures from walking the walls because everywhere we looked the view was spectacular. It wasn't a hard walk but it was a little warm that day. No worries, there were enough places to buy drinks as we walked the walls! Walking the walls can be emotionally moving as you see the places inside of the walls where there is still rubble, presumably from the conflict in the 1990s. Most of the city has been rebuilt but it is still a work in progress. We also walked up to the Fort of St. Lawrence which provides spectacular views of the Old Town, the walls themselves and other more modern-looking parts of the city. Lots of stair climbing to do the walls and the fort but definitely worth it! The next day we took the 45 minute boat ride to Cavat. I know that there are plenty of posters that really liked Cavat but it wasn't for us. It probably didn't help that I almost turned green with sea sickness on the way there, but it really didn't seem like there was much to see or do in Cavat. We walked the pomade from end to end, sat at a cafe for a drink and then took the boat back to Dubrovnik. After lunch we went to Lokrum, which we LOVED. We only spent an hour there but wish we had spent half a day there instead so we could have relaxed and enjoyed it even more. Dubrovnik is mostly stone and it was nice to actually walk on dirt through a virtual forest. Excellent views of Dubrovnik from the old fort there and the ruins of the Hapsburg palace were really cool.

Our third morning we rented a car (Maria's son has a business that provides rental cars) and drove to Kotor, Montenegro. I've posted on here before that I LOVED Kotor, and it's true. The drive there was really interesting-- we drove through some rather unattractive (but not scary) areas and then some beautiful villages along the Bay of Kotor. We stopped constantly in Perast for photos. It is a really sweet little place with lots of charm. The town of Kotor itself was really appealing. It isn't as fixed up and touristy as Dubrovnik. In Dubrovnik, everything seems emmaculate but in Kotor, they are still working on it! It is still coming into itself. That made it really interesting and enjoyable, actually. I'd like to go back in 10 years and see what it has become. Montenegro is on the Euro but we found it to be affordable anyway.

Great report - so wonderful to hear about your experiences. I knew you'd fall in love with it. There is something about Croatia that has a pull that just won't let go! :)

In only 3 days you had a real chance to enjoy my home. However there is one small item in your report which is not correct. The ruins which you saw are not from the 1991 war. We believe it is part of the town which was here prior to the big earthquake of 1667. The original town was built closer to 700AD and was totaly destroyed in the big earthquake. The only buildings which were left are the Rectors Palace and Sponza.
My cousin is one of the directors for the Restorartion of Dubrovnik. All of the repairs from the last war have been done. We are now working on replacing some of the black tar which was placed over the most wonderful stone steps and walkways during the days when it was Yugoslavia.
Hvala (thank you) for a charming and wonderful report, it was just perfect.
Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian coast is a very special place. I know very well, as I left California this past year to live here permanently.
Dobrodosli

Very interesting to read Cordelia, thanks. We have had one trip to Dubrovnik and keep saying we want to return and see more of Croatia. We really enjoyed our time there.

Do you have a website for the place you stayed in Dubrovnik?

Thanks, Kay

Croatiantravelady, thank you so much for explaining what the ruins inside the city actually are! Now those pictures will look like beautiful ruins of an older city rather than a memory of a war. Shame on me for just assuming but we really didn't feel like it was appropriate to ask anyone. With only three days in Dubrovnik we certainly had a chance to enjoy and completely fall in love with the city, but that is certainly not enough time to know everything about it! I can't imagine Dubrovnik being any more enchanting than it already is-- I will have to go back and see what it looks like when the work you mentioned is completed!

Kay, you can find information on Room Karla at http://www.travel-library.com/apartm...oom_karla.html. It is clean and has all of the basic amenities, including hominess that you don't get in hotels. I don't think it had Internet access but we didn't need that.

Now for the rest of the trip.... The morning that we left for Split we went to the Avis at Port Gruz in Dubrovnik (short bus trip from the Old Town) to get our rental car (the day before we had rented from Maria's son in law as we found his rates to be lower and the pick up more convenient but since we were going to an entirely different city, getting the car from Avis made sense to us). At the Avis, we asked for a map of Split or directions to the Avis near the Old Town there. The very nice gentlemen told us that they did not have a map but directed us to "follow the signs to the Centar. If you get lost, call the police. They will come get you." Sounded good enough to us, and the drive from Dubrovnik was easy and enjoyable. It took a bit longer than we thought it would as the roads are windy and the speed limits slow (that was ok by me-- no need to go zipping around on a windy road especially since the scenery is so nice most of the way). We stopped for lunch in Makarska, which was a really nice coastal town with a nice promenade along the waterfront. We thought Makarska was really pretty and wished that we had alotted more time for it, actually. It seemed like it would have been a nice stop over.

We arrived in Split with only the directions from Avis and a sketch map from another travel book. We did follow the signs to the Centar, although this was somewhat challenging as we arrived during rush hour and had to back track several times. Recommendation to future travelers: get directions! We were elated when we finally made it to the Riva, as the Avis was located on one side of it. Only problem: the Riva is a pedestrian walkway and the Avis was on the other side of it from where we were! Somehow we managed to find go back out away from the Centar and around the city and through a tunnel-- thanks to the sketch map we were able to find our way from there. It was a bit stressful, though, and I have to admit that I was not happy with Split when we first got there (don't worry, I grew to love it).

In Split we stayed in Villa Ana, which is a sweet little hotel that serves breakfast (our sobe in Dubrovnik did not, but my understanding is that sobe's generally don't). Everything about this hotel was really nice, and it was a 5-10 minute walk from the Old Town. I definitely recommend it.

Thanks for posting this Cordelia.

I am returning to Dubrovnik in October for a few days, and have reserved Room Karla so it is good to read your positive review.

Croatiantravelady - if you are around 7-10 October and would like to meet up, it would be a pleasure to meet a fellow fodorite!

Don't have any plans to leave Dubrovnik any time this year. Yes I will be here during October. Do have a look at my website, you will find some info regarding my move to this most wonderful place.
You may contact me via either email to make arrangments to meet in Stari Grad (old town).

Dobrodosli
Carol

Cordelia, thanks so much for posting this interesting report! We are heading to Croatia in June, and I am greedily reading all I can.

I was hoping not to have such a long trip report but it was all so amazing that it is hard to hold back. So I really will try to hit the highlights of the rest of our time in Croatia now.

First, the food. We arrived in Split on our anniversary and so decided to splurge for dinner. We both wanted to have dinner on the Riva (the waterfront promenade) and it seems that the only place to do that is at Restaurant Adriana. I suppose that it is touristy and expensive but we felt like we got what we paid for. The service and food were both excellent. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a nice dinner in Split. They were even nice enough to take the head off of my fish at the last minute. This was our only meal at Restaurant Adriana but we ended up there for drinks a few times, once to escape the rain and once to sit on the Riva and people watch while waiting for our ferry to Italy. We ate twice at Zlatna Vrata Pizza and Pasta, which is located inside the walls of Diocletian's Palace, near the Golden Gate. The food was really good-- like Mea Culpa in Dubrovnik it had pizzas large enough to share and very fresh salads. Plus, we got to eat in this old, old, structure that I can best describe as a truly romantic living, breathing ruin.

As for the sights, the Old Town itself absolutely blew me away. I've traveled around Europe a bit but can't think of another place I've been where the ancient buildings have essentially served as the foundation and surroundings for modern life. Restuarants, stores and cafes are literally built into Diocletian's Palace and the medieval buildings that came after. It is an incredible blend of the old and the new. Truly something special. I especially enjoyed walking around the Old Town at night and seeing how the arches and windows worked together in the moonlight. It was really magical and should be a must-do for anyone who visits Split. The only thing I regret is that our night pictures in the Old Town came out really blurry. During the day we got to hear a group sing in the vestibule of the Palace-- the accoustics are perfect for that sort of thing, so that was really cool and entirely lucky as we stumbled upon it. The interior of the Cathedral was really interesting, especially given its history. Word of caution: my husband was not allowed in the cathedral as he was wearing cargo shorts, even though they were pretty long. They seemed pretty strict about it. But then a man wearing short shorts came through in a tour group and he was allowed in, so who knows what the rules really are. We made the treck up the steep, somewhat slippery steps of the bell tower to the top. We tend to always go to the top of bell towers just before the hour so we get to hear them up close, which can be an adventure, and this time was no exception. The view was well worth the treck and the noise, and it was the best view we got of the Palace walls from above.

We also enjoyed Marjan Peninsula. We didn't get to see much of it as a huge storm came along shortly after we got to the top of the stairs, but it was really pretty and seemed very interesting and relaxing. Lots of trails and, I think, some small caves. There is a fantastic view of the Old Town from just beyond the top of the steps so I recommend going up there if only for the view.

I loved exploring the Old Town but almost as wonderful and interesting was sitting at a cafe on the Riva, sipping wine and people watching. Lots of tourists, lots of natives, all fun to watch in their own way. We will certainly never forget the 20 minutes or so that we watched a boater fall out of his motor boat, struggle to get back in, and then slowly and deliberately remove one piece of clothing at a time and wring it out until he was down to his skivvies and socks! Fortunately, it stopped there and his buddy took of on a moped and came back with a set of dry clothes!

We also took a day trip from Split to Hvar. We took the car ferry over and back, which gave us a little bit more than 5 hours on Hvar. While we would have liked to have tasted the island nightlife, we felt that we saw what we needed and wanted to see in the time that we had. I can definitely understand all of the hype about Hvar. It isn't so much that there are a lot of sights, though there are some must-sees-- it is more the atmosphere. We especially enjoyed the Franciscan Monastery in Hvar town and the fortress that overlooks the town. We didn't have a lot of time but you can't help but relax on Hvar! The touristy places close between noon and 4:30 or 5:00 so we spent a lot of time just enjoying the atmosphere at the cafe in the fortress and at some of the cafes on the square.

After spending time in Split and Hvar we took the Jadrolinija ferry over night to Ancona, Italy. We got a basic inside cabin. It wasn't plush by any means but we found it quite adequate for our sleeping needs. I slept better on the ferry than I have ever slept on a night train. Also, having taken night ferries with only deck passage in the past, I definitely recommend getting a cabin. It's nice not to have to drag packs around all night or sleep on them.

We landed in Ancona promptly at 7 am the next day. Apparently when one disembarks one is supposed to have one's boarding pass, which we didn't know. They let us slide but not without first rolling eyes and sighing. We went straight to the train station and boarded a train to Venice.

We had both been looking forward to Venice but, beautiful and unique as it is, we really missed Croatia and wished that we had stayed. We were kicking ourselves for missing Plitvice, for one, and on top of that Venice seemed jaded compared to vibrant Croatia. That said, I can make a few recommendations. We stayed at a great hotel called Corte dei Greci. It had only been open for about 20 days and everything was perfect. It is located near San Zaccaria and is about a 10 minute walk from St. Mark's Square. We lucked into this hotel due to some problems with the one we had actually booked, and were absolutely thrilled with it. I had been to Venice before but only as a student traveler, so it was fun to actually go into some of the sights. The Basilica is different from most Euro churches and I'm so glad I finally got to see the interior. It houses (in addition to St. Mark's body) a piece of the True Cross and a piece of the pillar to which Christ was tied for the 40 lashes. I didn't realize how moved I would be by seeing that. We also enjoyed the Doges Palace and the prison. Everyone talks about the art in Florence, but the art in Venice is absolutely worth seeing and provides a window to the city's history. We especially liked the Frari Church, the Accademia (my first time to both) and the Guggenheim, but for art lovers, there are many additional places to go. We went up in the St. Marks bell tower (again got to the top just in time for the striking of the hour) for some fantastic views of the city and, of course, we ate our share of gelato.

Despite my general feeling that Venice was jaded, was over-touristy and had too many pigeons, it is a truly romantic place and really, is a place that everyone should visit at least once. And I did have one amazing, magical moment there. Every night the orchestras of the cafes on St. Mark's Square play-- sortof dueling orchestras. It can be expensive to sit outside and listen to them, but at the very least, one can stand in the square and take it all in. After dinner on our last night in Venice we took one last stroll through the Square. As we approached it, we heard one of the orchestras start to play "Memory" and all of a sudden, it was as if Venice was transformed. In that moment, I saw Venice in its glory days-- young, beautiful, vibrant-- and that moment made me glad that I was there.

So that's our trip. We wouldn't change much if we had to do it all over again. We would probably skip Cavat and spend more time on Lokrum and at Lapad. I'd like to have had time to see Mostar, as everyone says it is really interesting. Trogir would be good to see as well. Until about a month ago, I would have passed on Venice for Plitvice but as it turns out, we managed to work out a short trip to Croatia and Slovenia this fall. Plitvice will be our first stop. Stay tuned for that trip report-- I've never been so excited to go on a trip!

How inspiring! It is absolutely thrilling that you loved Croatia so much you are returning. You will LOVE Plitvice lakes - they are so picturesque and stunning. Will you be spending time in Istria? It is a remarkable region, rich in history, scenery, culture, food, hilltop villages, truffles, etc.

Have you read that we are so smitten with Croatia we are looking to purchase a property there to move to? Well, either Croatia or Scotland...probably Croatia (Istria).

I cannot wait to hear about your jaunt to Slovenia - we are planning to go there soon, too.

Thanks again for posting your adventures! :)

CordeliaCH, thank you for the wonderful report! We leave in 15 days for Croatia. We are hitting the Zagreb, Plitvice, Togir & Dubrovnik area. Can't wait and since I was absolutely captivated with Venice when there, I can hardly wait for Croatia. You will love Slovenia; we were there last year and posted a short trip report. Pictures are on our home page
http://home.wi.rr.com/tomshirl/">htt....com/tomshirl/
I cannot get my hubby talked in to Montenegro-rental car concerns. Your report may help... Shirley, Waukesha, WI

Wow, travel2live2, that is fantastic! I can see why it might be tough to choose between those two places. We are spending a couple of days in Rovinj. This trip is really short, so I'm sure we will wish for more time, but we take what we can get. I think we are staying in a sobe just outside of the Old Town. We plan to spend some time driving around the interior, particularly Motovun and Groznjan. Do you recommend any place in particular that we should make sure to go?

LuvToRoam, we had absolutely no problem with the rental car in Montenegro. I've read postings by people who have gotten turned away at the border but it seems like as long as you have the necessary paperwork for the car (whoever rents it to you should provide it so make sure to ask them about it-- it was a green card of some sort) and your passports you should be fine. We parked right outside of the walls of Kotor in a car park and had no trouble with that, just a 15 minute wait for a spot or so. Thank you so much for sharing your Slovenia photos. We are only going to Bled and Ljubljana but also plan to drive through the Alps and the river valley, but your pics are making us look forward to it that much more!

CordeliaCH, thanks for the info, I think this will help. At least I will know what to ask for at the car rental place. Driving through Slovenia was easy and beautiful; you will have a great time. If I'm not a slacker I too will get a report out on our trip when we return. Shirley, Waukesha

Lovely report, Cordelia. Thanks for posting.

ttt

thanks so much for an insightful trip report. we are planning to travel to Dubrovnik next september/october and rent a car for side trips, but were also considering adding Venice to the end of our trip. I hope you don't mind a few questions--
-did you purchase your rail tickets online before you made the trip? I've done that for the Eurostar, but would like to know how it worked for you
-was the train station within walking distance of the ferry dock in Ancona?
-also, how long was the train ride to Venice?

I look forward to your reply,and thanks very much in advance

CordeliaCH, thanks much for a lovely report. We, too, fell in love with Croatia, have been twice and hope to go again. Our first trip was basically just to Croatia and gave us 5 days in Dubrovnik, 2 in Split, and 3 in Hvar plus 1 in Zagreb. It was wonderful. However, our second time was just a day in Dubrovnik on a cruise and I was crushed to see the place completely overrun by me and my fellow cruisers not just from my giant boat but also from at least two others of equivalent size. Ugh. never again. that's why I ask...

Croatiantravelady, at what time of the year do the tour boats stop dumping folks in Dubrovnik so that it's safe to plan a trip there without finding the place overrun?
I really want to go again, but just don't want that wonderful little jewelbox spoiled by the cruising hoards. Also how difficult would it be to repeat something like my first visit (Dubrovnik, Split, Hvar and Zagreb)just after Christmas and through New Years? Do the ferries run at that time? Thanks for any advice you can give me.

The most wonderful time of year in Dubrovnik is winter for us. That's because most of the mega cruisers have slowed down considerably. However, there is hardly anything open - restaurants - art galleries - small wonderful shops - only a small number for a few hours.

The ferry boat hardly moves as the islands close down completely. And the sea can be very rough, so no one wants to travel. We take the bus during the winter months.

You should come either in late September and October or late April and early May. The majority of the European tourists don't arrive until June, July and oh my goodness AUGUST!!!! It was impossible to get into Stari Grad today and I thought about going away for the entire month next year. The mega cruisers are here almost all year long, except December, January & February. But a few European ships still arrive often.

The weather can be difficult during the winter. The rainy season comes and it pours so hard that you must have high rubber boots to walk down the Stradun.

It is very different to live here than come only as a tourist. Also the residency laws change often and if you don't like what is happening today, wait until tomorrow.

Something simple to remember is never arrive here on Saturday or Sunday, that's when the mega ships arrive and drop the "Visit Dubrovnik on my own, it's so small" hoards of gawkers.

Dubrovnik is like a fine wine and to find the essence of my home one must stop, smell and savor every small sip.

Should you want to discuss this with me in length, I invite you to email me with your questions.

Dobrodosli
By the way does anyone know what "Dobrodosli" means?

An American Living in Dubrovnik

Thank you so much for your kind reply and invitation to e-mail direct with specific questions. I certainly will do so, but I also thought it important to comment here on how helpful it is to get the perspective of a resident. Your insights and information are very
helpful. As a tourist I can see how important tourism is to an economy like Croatia's.

I sat next to a young man from Split on our flight from Rome to Split and remarked about how beautiful his home looked as we were flying over it and preparing to land. He replied yes, it's all we have, meaning the land and its beauty is the lifeblood of the country's inhabitants since there are few other natural resources--like oil, metals, etc. and little industry.

So it is sad to recognize the necessity for accepting the cruise ships which at once provide livelihoods but also make living difficult. Finding a way to preserve the beauty without trammeling it in the process much be a constant challenge.

Croatiantravellady: what is the weather generally like in mid-March, and are more shops and restaurants open at that time?